# Fishless Cycling Question



## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

I'm currently in step 2 of fishless cycling... It reads:

"--Now that ammonia reads zero after 24 hours, you will need the note that you made regarding your initial ammonia dose. However many drops/teaspoons you added initially, add that many again now. You will add this same dose every 2-3 days. Go for consistency, but it is ok if you forget or get busy and skip a day. It will not derail the processes that are happening. In addition, you do not have to add the dose at exactly the same time each day, but best to be somewhat consistent when adding and testing. Try to set aside a time each day for this."

So I added the second dose of ammonia, tested yesterday at about 1-2ppm, then today at the same reading. According to the above paragraph, I should be adding another dose today, but I'm still at 1-2ppm. Should I continue adding or wait for a 0 reading again?


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

After the initial dose, I took that amount and cut it in half, and that was my dose for the remaining days of the cycle. I dosed daily. You probably won't see 0 ammonia for a couple of weeks. Eventually it will begin converting to nitrite, which will then convert to nitrate. This entire process will probably take about a month. You know you are cycled when you dose your tank, read it the next day, and you have 0 ammonia and nitrite with some nitrate. To be safe, make sure it is doing this for a couple of days at least.

Good luck and be patient.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

morrismorris said:


> After the initial dose, I took that amount and cut it in half, and that was my dose for the remaining days of the cycle. I dosed daily. You probably won't see 0 ammonia for a couple of weeks. Eventually it will begin converting to nitrite, which will then convert to nitrate. This entire process will probably take about a month. You know you are cycled when you dose your tank, read it the next day, and you have 0 ammonia and nitrite with some nitrate. To be safe, make sure it is doing this for a couple of days at least.
> 
> Good luck and be patient.


Thank you! Patience is not a strong point for me...I used to just throw fish in and let it cycle that way but that was over a decade ago, I'm a bit wiser now I think. It is frustrating, after you posted yesterday I put in the dose as per the cycling instructions, tested this morning and I could be close to 4ppm now. I just want this to be over with and stock the tank.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

LOL I swear you and I are twins because I was like you back in the day, just throw fish in and cycle that way. I'm wiser now and thinking things through the right way. I'm frustrated because I just want to stock the tank NOW! LOL! I also have a 75 gal and will be stocking Mbunas.

Do you have a pic of your setup?


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

It will get to a point where you think it will never happen, then one day the ammonia reading will literally drop like a stone. Once your ammonia starts converting to nitrite, the rest of the process goes a lot quicker.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> LOL I swear you and I are twins because I was like you back in the day, just throw fish in and cycle that way. I'm wiser now and thinking things through the right way. I'm frustrated because I just want to stock the tank NOW! LOL! I also have a 75 gal and will be stocking Mbunas.
> 
> Do you have a pic of your setup?


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

morrismorris said:


> It will get to a point where you think it will never happen, then one day the ammonia reading will literally drop like a stone. Once your ammonia starts converting to nitrite, the rest of the process goes a lot quicker.


I'm at that point now. It's been a week of following the instructions for step 2, even after 3 days after a dose I still have the same ammonia level. So, to clarify, even though I'm still showing ammonia levels @2-3 ppm, I should still be adding ammonia? I'm doing my initial dose every 3 days now.

I'm on like 3-4 weeks of cycling and I feel like I've gotten nowhere. And Nitrite takes even longer to control, right?


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

ironspider said:


> morrismorris said:
> 
> 
> > It will get to a point where you think it will never happen, then one day the ammonia reading will literally drop like a stone. Once your ammonia starts converting to nitrite, the rest of the process goes a lot quicker.
> ...


Just keep testing the water daily; if the ammonia is 2-3 ppm don't add more ammonia. Once ammonia drops to 0 ppm in 24 hrs, start checking for nitrite, then add ammonia every other day. If nitrite gets off of the scale do 50% water changes to keep it somewhere in the middle of the scale. Wait for nitrite to go to 0 pmm over night, like the ammonia, and you are good.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

It could be somewhere between .5-2, I can't really discern the shades of yellow.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Are you looking at the nitrate test?

Nitrate is yellow/orange in my kit and nitrite is blue/purple.


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

ironspider said:


> morrismorris said:
> 
> 
> > It will get to a point where you think it will never happen, then one day the ammonia reading will literally drop like a stone. Once your ammonia starts converting to nitrite, the rest of the process goes a lot quicker.
> ...


I added every day, but half the dose I put in on day 1. Three weeks and no movement in levels is normal. If I had to guess, 1 more week, 2 at the most, you will test one day and your ammonia will have dropped and you can start looking for nitrite. At that point you are coming down the home stretch.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

DJRansome said:


> Are you looking at the nitrate test?
> 
> Nitrate is yellow/orange in my kit and nitrite is blue/purple.


I'm not looking at nitrate yet, the cycling instructions say test for nitrate after ammonia is 0 after 24 hours.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

DJRansome said:


> Are you looking at the nitrate test?
> 
> Nitrate is yellow/orange in my kit and nitrite is blue/purple.


I just did the nitrite and it's close to 0. I don't have a nitrate test?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

You are talking about the yellow ammonia test? It should have no hint of green...just lemon yellow for zero.


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

ironspider said:


> DJRansome said:
> 
> 
> > Are you looking at the nitrate test?
> ...


Let's start over because like DJ is saying, yellow is only a color in the ammonia test when ammonia is 0 but from a prior post, you said you have an ammonia reading, which should be green. This is all if you are using the API liquid test, which most people use.

Which kit are you using to test your water and tell us what that kit is returning for ammonia.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

morrismorris said:


> ironspider said:
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> 
> > DJRansome said:
> ...


Now I'm crazy confused. I use somethign called master test kit (not the api master test kit I see online), unless it's a really old one in different packaging. But when I look at the color for the ammonia test, clear is 0, then light yellow, all the way up to green. I'm in a yellow tint which corresponds to somewhere between 1-2ppm.


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

Ok, that is fine, as long as the test kit you are using is working properly. I would continue to test for ammonia and nitrite each day. At some point, you will start to see your nitrites show up. Keep adding ammonia until you get at least a couple days in a row where you've added ammonia the day before and the next day, ammonia and nitrite are zero. Then after doing a water change, you are ready for fish.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

morrismorris said:


> Ok, that is fine, as long as the test kit you are using is working properly. I would continue to test for ammonia and nitrite each day. At some point, you will start to see your nitrites show up. Keep adding ammonia until you get at least a couple days in a row where you've added ammonia the day before and the next day, ammonia and nitrite are zero. Then after doing a water change, you are ready for fish.


I need a new test kit anyway as I don't have a nitrate test.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Another 3 days since my last dose and I'm still at .5-1ppm ammonia. Nitrite still close to 0...I'm losing my patience.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Hmm you should be at zero ammonia after 12-24 hours. What are you using for bio media?


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> Hmm you should be at zero ammonia after 12-24 hours. What are you using for bio media?


I have a Penn-Plax Cascade 1000. Whatever it came with. Three Floss pads, a bio sponge and the charcoal.


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

ironspider said:


> NewkeeperRico said:
> 
> 
> > Hmm you should be at zero ammonia after 12-24 hours. What are you using for bio media?
> ...


Some ceramic media would be beneficial for bacteria to colonize; if I'm not mistaken your filter has 3 trays. I would put the sponge in the bottom of the bottom tray with a pad over it and ceramic media in the middle and top trays. I don't use charcoal, but I do use a 100ml pack of purigen in the top tray of my canisters on top of the ceramics.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Old Newbie said:


> ironspider said:
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> > NewkeeperRico said:
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You are saying one bio sponge with one Floss pad? Currently I use three floss pads, one in each tray. Won't going down to one mean less fine filtration?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Usually there is one fine filter pad (floss pad?) just to strain out fine particles. The sponges are for growing bacteria although it will grow on everything. Are all 3 trays completely full of media?

I would leave the 3 floss pads in until you are cycled...but maybe in one spot...not all three trays. Assume you have it set up the way the manufacturer advises? If yes it should work.

If you have room in any of the trays, ceramic media is always good, but it will not speed your cycle.


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

Some ceramic media would be beneficial for bacteria to colonize; if I'm not mistaken your filter has 3 trays. I would put the sponge in the bottom of the bottom tray with a pad over it and ceramic media in the middle and top trays. I don't use charcoal, but I do use a 100ml pack of purigen in the top tray of my canisters on top of the ceramics.[/quote]

You are saying one bio sponge with one Floss pad? Currently I use three floss pads, one in each tray. Won't going down to one mean less fine filtration?[/quote]

One fine pad is good; I use a coarse sponge then a medium sponge and then a fine pad in my bottom trays, then bio media in the rest of my trays and a 100ml packet of Purigen on top of the top media tray. My water is absolutely polished; there are 15 Mbuna and 3 Synodontis in my 75 gallon tank:


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

I have the cascade 1000 as well. I have the coarse and floss pad on the bottom tray, ceramic bio rings in both middle and top tray. I'm not using charcoal at all. I also have a Penguin bio wheel with coarse and floss pads and bio balls. I want to have as much beneficial bacteria growing as possible to combat the ammonia and nitrites.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

I can definitely tell its working because the ammonia will be back to zero after 12 hours from doing the daily dose. I did the daily dose of ammonia for four days before I started the 2nd stage. I did my first nitrite test and partial water change last night.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> I have the cascade 1000 as well. I have the coarse and floss pad on the bottom tray, ceramic bio rings in both middle and top tray. I'm not using charcoal at all. I also have a Penguin bio wheel with coarse and floss pads and bio balls. I want to have as much beneficial bacteria growing as possible to combat the ammonia and nitrites.


Can you link me the ceramic rings?

And you are running a second filter? HOB and the Cascade? What size aquarium?


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

ironspider said:


> NewkeeperRico said:
> 
> 
> > I have the cascade 1000 as well. I have the coarse and floss pad on the bottom tray, ceramic bio rings in both middle and top tray. I'm not using charcoal at all. I also have a Penguin bio wheel with coarse and floss pads and bio balls. I want to have as much beneficial bacteria growing as possible to combat the ammonia and nitrites.
> ...


I have a 75 gallon tank. I got my bio rings from my local fish store. The ones I got are by Fluval. Yes I'm also running a HOB which is the Penguin bio wheel 350. I didn't use the cartridges that came with it. I rigged it to use a coarse sponge, floss pad and bio balls. You'll want to get an HOB as well because the cascade is only rated at 265 gph. You want to be in the range of 300-600 gph for the best filtration.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> ironspider said:
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> > NewkeeperRico said:
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I only have a 55g tank, still think I need the extra? I thought the 1000 was plenty for my size.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

It's not plenty but it will work. You will just have to vacuum debris a lot.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Yeah I'd get one to be on the safe side.


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

A HOB or a cannister that turns more water over. My Hydor 350 (I run 2) is rated around 290gph and while it is sufficient, I need to vacuum up a lot. If I had to do it over, I definitely would have gone the next model up.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

I ordered the penguin 350 HOB, it's cheap too...nice surprise.

On my cycling note. I did a half dose of ammonia yesterday, and it's still, 24 hours later, the same. .5-1 ppm


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Were you able to change up your trays in the cascade and add bio media? The more areas the bacteria can grow on will be better.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> Were you able to change up your trays in the cascade and add bio media? The more areas the bacteria can grow on will be better.


I ordered on Amazon, it should be coming today. I wasn't looking forward to taking apart the canister as I've never done that before (is it a mess, does the water spill everywhere?), so in the meantime I figured I'd install the HOB with some of the ceramics that I ordered as well. What do you think I should do tonight? And by the way, after a half dose of ammonia yesterday, today is no better actually looks the same color. So I added another half dose this morning.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Nope, not a mess at all. It comes with a little sheet with instructions on how to do maintenance on it and there are plenty of youtube videos that show you as well. It's really easy. I would go ahead and change up the trays. There's plenty of different ways you can set it up, it just depends on how you want it to be. The way mine is, is that the bottom tray has the coarse pad on bottom then the floss on top of that, middle and top trays are full of ceramic bio rings. I rigged up my HOB that way as well, except I have the bio balls in that one.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Hmm you may still be in stage 1 of the fishless cycle. No need to add more ammonia until you read ZERO for ammonia and that can take up to a couple weeks to happen.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> Nope, not a mess at all. It comes with a little sheet with instructions on how to do maintenance on it and there are plenty of youtube videos that show you as well. It's really easy. I would go ahead and change up the trays. There's plenty of different ways you can set it up, it just depends on how you want it to be. The way mine is, is that the bottom tray has the coarse pad on bottom then the floss on top of that, middle and top trays are full of ceramic bio rings. I rigged up my HOB that way as well, except I have the bio balls in that one.


You are using 1 floss pad? The directions have me putting the coarse pad on bottom with floss in all three.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> Hmm you may still be in stage 1 of the fishless cycle. No need to add more ammonia until you read ZERO for ammonia and that can take up to a couple weeks to happen.


I had hit that point two weeks ago. I should be done by now.


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

ironspider said:


> NewkeeperRico said:
> 
> 
> > Hmm you may still be in stage 1 of the fishless cycle. No need to add more ammonia until you read ZERO for ammonia and that can take up to a couple weeks to happen.
> ...


What makes you think you already hit that point 2 weeks ago?


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

ironspider said:


> NewkeeperRico said:
> 
> 
> > Nope, not a mess at all. It comes with a little sheet with instructions on how to do maintenance on it and there are plenty of youtube videos that show you as well. It's really easy. I would go ahead and change up the trays. There's plenty of different ways you can set it up, it just depends on how you want it to be. The way mine is, is that the bottom tray has the coarse pad on bottom then the floss on top of that, middle and top trays are full of ceramic bio rings. I rigged up my HOB that way as well, except I have the bio balls in that one.
> ...


Yep, I only have a floss pad in the bottom tray on top of the coarse pad. Yeah don't go by the directions on there. I say just go with how I have mine setup or you if you don't want that much bio media then put in polyfill in the 2nd tray and just put bio media in the top tray.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

morrismorris said:


> ironspider said:
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> > NewkeeperRico said:
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I followed the instructions for the first step and got the ammonia to zero after the first dose. The second step of adding ammonia every few days has not resulted in the necessary 0 reading after quite some time.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> ironspider said:
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> > NewkeeperRico said:
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The stuff is at my home, when I get off I'll change it all around.


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

ironspider said:


> I followed the instructions for the first step and got the ammonia to zero after the first dose. The second step of adding ammonia every few days has not resulted in the necessary 0 reading after quite some time.


It eventually went to zero because you never added more, not because you have a colony of bacteria established that would convert it to nitrite.

My recommendation is to take whatever your initial dose of ammonia was and dose half of that ammount each day. Eventually, the bacteria you need, to turn that ammonia into nitrite, will establish itself in the tank. If you just dose one time and let it sit there, of course eventually it will give you a reading of zero if you never dose the tank with more ammonia.

The goal here is to get to a point where you dose the tank with ammonia and the very next day, your ammonia reading is zero. But before that even happens, you will start to see readings of nitrite; this is a good thing because now you will know the bacteria exists to begin converting the ammonia.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

morrismorris said:


> ironspider said:
> 
> 
> > I followed the instructions for the first step and got the ammonia to zero after the first dose. The second step of adding ammonia every few days has not resulted in the necessary 0 reading after quite some time.
> ...


NewKeeperRico suggested the same and that is what I've been doing for the last week+. 1/2 initial dose every day. This mornings test was the same @1ppm. I'm going to put in the new ceramic bio-rings this morning and the new Penguin 350 HOB.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Actually, I decided against the HOB for now. I don't have a background and the hob will add to the unsightliness. But it's here to put on if I need extra filtration.

As far as my media in the Cascade....
Very bottom basket-Course black sponge and floss
Middle basket- Floss and bio-rings
top basket-Floss and bio - rings

I also removed the bag of carbon as it seems like nobody uses it.


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

I'm not sure you need floss in the same tray as your bio rings. You already have it in the bottom tray with the course filter pad. That should be sufficient.

Also, since you said that you have been adding the daily dose for a week, and I assume this is right after the first dose that you let go to zero, I would mentally prepare for this to be pretty much starting over. It could be a couple of weeks before you start noticing any nitrites. I wouldn't expect any different and by doing that, if you do see something earlier, than that is awesome and consider yourself lucky!


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

Agree with morrismorris on the floss; one layer in the bottom tray is sufficient to catch small debris; more in the upper trays is not going to catch anything and will restrict flow.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Thanks guys.

And yes, I'm under the impression that something went wrong and I'm basically starting over.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

My endless saga continues and I'm at the point where I just want to buy fish and cycle it like I did when I was young, I'm so frustrated.

Since my last dose of ammonia it's been 3 days and there is no change in the ammonia. I did add some today, but I don't know if I should have done that or not.

I did full testing today to provide here and see if there are any mistakes being made:

Ammonia: 1-2ppm
Nitrite: 0
Ph: 8.2
kh: 5 drops
temp: 80 degrees

Should I start back at step 1 and wait until the ammonia goes to 0 again, before adding more?


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

If you are adding half dose every day, keeping in mind you essentialy started over last time we wrote, you probably won't see any change for a few weeks. Expecting something to happen in three days is unrealistic.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

morrismorris said:


> If you are adding half dose every day, keeping in mind you essentialy started over last time we wrote, you probably won't see any change for a few weeks. Expecting something to happen in three days is unrealistic.


OK, just figure I'd have some bacteria in there so three days of no additional ammonia would work.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Bring the temp up to 85.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

So I finally got down to zero and figured I'll move the the next step. I put about a teaspoon of ammonia in about two hours ago, checked it again now and it's still at 0. Do I need to get this back up to 1-2ppm?


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Yep put it however many you need to bring it up to 1-2ppm.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Good News....

I have finally processed 1-2ppm of ammonia in a 24 hour period. I thought I would have a nitrite spike but I didn't, I'm only at .25 or so.

I put another dose of ammonia in this morning. How long now before I can get fish?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

You need to wait for nitrite to get to zero plus a couple of more days.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

I tested for nitrite again today and I think the test yesterday was zero as it is today. yesterday was dark when I tested but today I did it when light out.

According to everything I read, I should have a spike in nitrite. I'm not seeing that at all. The dose of ammonia yesterday was processed to zero by this morning, and over the weeks I've added quite a bit of ammonia.

Do I just hang on tight and test for nitrite everyday while adding ammonia everyday? I'm not really sure where to go from here.


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

If you don't have any ammonia or nitrite you could test to see if there is any nitrate present; if the first two are zero and there is nitrate present you are cycled, but it seems strange that you would not have nitrite present when ammonia finally just dropped to zero.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

Yeah test for nitrate. If you have nitrates than you're good. Man that would be awesome if you don't have to go thru the 2nd stage of the cycle for so long. I'm at my 3rd week of the 2nd stage, ugh!


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

I checked it again today, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite. I don't have a nitrate in my test kit...


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

ironspider said:


> I checked it again today, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite. I don't have a nitrate in my test kit...


I would get a nitrate test; you are going to need it.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Old Newbie said:


> ironspider said:
> 
> 
> > I checked it again today, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite. I don't have a nitrate in my test kit...
> ...


Just ordered on Amazon prime. Even though I got the tank and stand for free, it seems as though this hobby will nickel and dime you to death.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Got the new test kit, API freshwater master kit. How do these tests look?

ammonia: 0 I think. I'm coming up totally clear, but zero on the card shows yellow. My other kit shows zero.
Nitrite: 0.25 ppm
Nitrate: 5 ppm
High PH: 7.0-7.8 I can't tell.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

The guy where I'm getting the fish run has PH of 8.0-8.3


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

ironspider said:


> Got the new test kit, API freshwater master kit. How do these tests look?
> 
> ammonia: 0 I think. I'm coming up totally clear, but zero on the card shows yellow. My other kit shows zero.
> Nitrite: 0.25 ppm
> ...


Yeah zero would be like a lemon yellow. You're using the two bottles for ammonia right? They say bottle #1 and bottle #2, 8 drops per bottle.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> ironspider said:
> 
> 
> > Got the new test kit, API freshwater master kit. How do these tests look?
> ...


Whoops, I guess I should have read the directions. I only used one bottle. I'm still pretty certain it's zero as according to my other kit. What about the other parameters? I guess all my test could be off this morning if there are multiple bottles for others.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

There are 2 bottles for the ammonia test AND 2 bottles for the nitrate test and you need to follow the directions exactly to get the proper results. The nitrate test requires shaking the reagent bottle prior to dispensing the drops into the test tube water sample.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Deeda said:


> There are 2 bottles for the ammonia test AND 2 bottles for the nitrate test and you need to follow the directions exactly to get the proper results. The nitrate test requires shaking the reagent bottle prior to dispensing the drops into the test tube water sample.


Yes, I noticed that last night. What a moron...,

So I retested last night using proper testing methods. 0 ammonia, .25 nitrite, but was pretty high on nitrate maybe 100-160. I did a 30% water change about 12 hours ago and it's testing the same.

Should I keep doing water changes to get the nitrate down?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Not a moron, it's a common mistake for the 1st time testing!

If you are positive you tested the nitrate correctly, yes I would do a 50% water change to get them down as it can interfere with the progress of the nitrite. The water change should not affect the cycling process at all. Wait 24 hours and test ALL parameters again.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Deeda said:


> Not a moron, it's a common mistake for the 1st time testing!
> 
> If you are positive you tested the nitrate correctly, yes I would do a 50% water change to get them down as it can interfere with the progress of the nitrite. The water change should not affect the cycling process at all. Wait 24 hours and test ALL parameters again.


So I did a 30% then a 50% the next day. This morning I'm at 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and about 20-40 nitrate. I just added another dose of ammonia (this will be the last) as I have fish coming wednesday. Anything else I should do to prepare? One concern I have is that I have a ph of 7.4-7.6 ish, the breeder is 8.0-8.3.


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## NewkeeperRico (Feb 5, 2018)

You can buy that Lake Malawi buffer at your lfs or you can raise the ph yourself using the 3 items from the buffer recipe in the library.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

NewkeeperRico said:


> You can buy that Lake Malawi buffer at your lfs or you can raise the ph yourself using the 3 items from the buffer recipe in the library.


All this stuff says to mix it before putting it in the tank, in a bucket or something. I use the python for water changes, can that stuff simply be put in the tank? I'd rather spend a few bucks more for ease of use, it's only a 55g tank.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

ironspider said:


> NewkeeperRico said:
> 
> 
> > You can buy that Lake Malawi buffer at your lfs or you can raise the ph yourself using the 3 items from the buffer recipe in the library.
> ...


You can mix the buffer recipe in a large measuring cup or pitcher to dissolve the ingredients first. You should only need to buffer the tank for the initial placement of the fish so as not to change water parameters too quickly from the breeder. You can then reduce the amount of buffer used to get them used to your natural water parameters over a few weeks.


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## ironspider (Dec 5, 2017)

Deeda said:


> ironspider said:
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> > NewkeeperRico said:
> ...


Well that sounds more like it.


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