# Malawi (Mbuna) Buffer Recipe



## acquario (Feb 7, 2007)

Ok here my question for the past 1 I have been using the Rift Lake Buffer Recipe once every two weeks when I do my water change, I was reading that most people instead add the salts every week, would be interested to hear from other people.
Also a friend of mine gave me 2 unused bottles (he got them when he bought a used tank on Craigslist) of Cichlid Trace 2 Liter made by Seachem is this similar to the Buffer recipe or is it something you use in addition to the buffer?
Thank you


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Buffers should be added as needed, and typically that's during a water change, but doesn't have to be.

What are you pH, KH, and GH out of the tap? What do you raise it to via the buffer recipe additions?

I don't know what's in the Seachem product, but I don't add anything to my tanks unless I know what it is 
and know that it's of some benefit. Something marketed as 'cichlid trace' is probably not the same as 
what you're adding via the buffer recipe.

Looked up the product on their site. They'd like you to believe it's essential, but it's not. From their site:

_Cichlid Traceâ„¢ supplies a broad range of trace elements demonstrated* to be necessary for 
proper fish health and growth. Unlike terrestrial animals, fish obtain nutrients from both their food 
and environment. Trace elements are normally depleted by utilization, oxidation and precipitation, 
thus it is important to restore them on a regular basis. Cichlid Traceâ„¢ contains only those elements
actually demonstrated* to be required by fish. _

Beware of marketing hype like this. I wouldn't add it.


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## zugbug (Dec 12, 2005)

I agree.... although I like the seachem products they are in the business of selling stuff so along with that comes a little marketing push so you do have to read and ask questions. Most of the ingrediants in their trace are in their cichlid salt formula..


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## acquario (Feb 7, 2007)

I will retest the water again this weekend and post the results, I was hoping that the Seachem stuff could replace the diy salt mix as I'm getting tired of pre-mixing the salts days before the water changes


prov356 said:


> Buffers should be added as needed, and typically that's during a water change, but doesn't have to be.
> 
> What are you pH, KH, and GH out of the tap? What do you raise it to via the buffer recipe additions?
> 
> ...


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> I will retest the water again this weekend and post the results, I was hoping that the Seachem stuff could replace the diy salt mix as I'm getting tired of pre-mixing the salts days before the water changes


Based on those tests, you may be able to greatly simplify what you're doing without resorting to the 
commercial mixes. Seachem does make a mix that would buffer, but it can get expensive.


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## acquario (Feb 7, 2007)

Ok got both tap water and tank water tested and here the results, I used the API kit
Tap water (this is sort of amazing since I always thought it was soft to begin with)
PH (high test) 8.4 !!!!
Amm 0 PPM
Nitrite 0 PPM

Tank water I did this before my bi-weekly 60% water change
PH (high test) 7.8 +
Ammonia 0 PPM
Nitrite 0 PPM
Nitrate 40 - 80 it's pretty red in between 40 and 80

So my question is should I keep adding the salts? or maybe drop the baking soda and just do salt and epsom salts?

Thank you



prov356 said:


> Buffers should be added as needed, and typically that's during a water change, but doesn't have to be.
> 
> What are you pH, KH, and GH out of the tap? What do you raise it to via the buffer recipe additions?
> 
> ...


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> What are you pH, KH, and GH out of the tap?


The pH results are helpful, but you also need the KH and GH test results. KH is the important one, GH 
not so much. Your water is alkaline, but not necessarily hard. The pH test doesn't tell you that. Soft 
water can have a high pH.

The ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate results are good, but aren't helpful in determining if buffers are needed.

So, I can't really answer the question about the need for buffers yet until you get the KH reading. If GH is 
low, some add Epsom salts to raise. I only mention it because your question about adding 'salts' is 
very general. There are diferent kinds of 'salts'. Buffers can be added to raise KH (carbonate hardness) 
and Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) can be added to raise total hardness or GH.

One other question, did you test the pH of the tap right after pouring it out? If so, do another test after it 
sits 24 hours. Sometimes the pH will change. That could be part of the reason for the difference 
between tap and tank.


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## acquario (Feb 7, 2007)

How do I test GH and KH? Different kit?


prov356 said:


> > What are you pH, KH, and GH out of the tap?
> 
> 
> The pH results are helpful, but you also need the KH and GH test results. KH is the important one, GH
> ...


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> How do I test GH and KH? Different kit?


Yes, it's another API kit that contains both tests.


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## Derek Layton (Apr 23, 2009)

OK, I think I am getting confused.
When I set up my tank, I added the DIY Buffer for all 65 gallons
now when I do my weekly water changes, I simply add the buffer stuff for the 15-20 gallons that I change (65 gallon tank)
should I be adding enough for the whole tank each time or only buffering the new water?
I typically buffer the new water more or less (compared to the last time) based the current water conditions. 
I am trying to get it so that I add the same thing every time, but this is my fisrt sichlids tank and I am learning. 
Any Help?

-Derek-


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## Derek Layton (Apr 23, 2009)

cichlids not sichlids, sorry

-Derek-


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Derek Layton said:


> OK, I think I am getting confused.
> When I set up my tank, I added the DIY Buffer for all 65 gallons
> now when I do my weekly water changes, I simply add the buffer stuff for the 15-20 gallons that I change (65 gallon tank)
> should I be adding enough for the whole tank each time or only buffering the new water?
> ...


The short answer is you don't add for the full tank volume every time, just the added volume.

The long answer gets into the same recommendations as above. Know your pH, GH, and KH tap 
and tank. Know the change that resulted from adding any chemicals. You'll soon get a pretty good 
idea of what and how much to add by seeing it's affect when added. It's a good idea to keep a log 
when first delving into this.

Focus on KH, and GH, and let the pH settle where it will. If you post pH, KH, and GH levels of your tap 
water (leave sit for 24 hours) and your tank water, we can make some further recommendations. 
Also, what fish do you keep? I'm assuming you have target levels based on the fish's needs and that 
something in the source water didn't meet those needs. And always strive for stability over trying to 
achieve some 'ideal value', since there really is no such thing despite the literature out there. Most 
fish do well within a pretty wide range.

There's also some good info here that may help.


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