# Trouble Cycling



## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

I am in the middle of fishless cycling and it has stalled out on me. Nitrite has been at .25ppm. Ammonia has been at 4ppm for a week. I started with dr. Tims all in one and the ammonium chloride as directed. I was told since it stalled, to do a 25% water change and add a dechlorinator. I didnt have any at the time so I used large store bought water without treating it. Today I'm still at 4ppm ammonia even after the water change. What should I do? If I do another water change it will be with tap water so what do I add to it before it goes in?


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## Bevo52 (Sep 17, 2012)

Sorry - confused. You've been cycling for a week? It's not stalled...it just hasn't really kicked in yet.

Stuff like Dr. Tims is mostly snake oil. In 30yrs of keeping fish I've seen all sorts of magic cycling cures - but the only thing that consistently works is time.

Make sure you're using 100% pure ammonia with nothing added...and just wait it out.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

What type of test kit are you using? If you did a water change you should have seen a drop in ammonia.

If your water does have chlorine and possibly chloramine, then you definitely need to have a quality dechlorinator. Any big box pet store carries it. And if you filled up your tank with your tap then immediately added Dr. Tim's you likely killed off anything in the bottle.


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

You're both right. 2 or 3 weeks ago I read thru all the material on fishless cycling provided in the library in this forum. I have come to the conclusion that I am impatient. Even though I cycled 25% of the water and it still read 2-4 ppm. I will be patient and check parameters with my api test kit and see where I stand. I got caught up in the hype of being cycled in a week and its just not that common. I'll let you guys know in 4 or 5 days where I stand. Thanks again.


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

Day 12 and the Ammonia is finally starting to fall. I am at about .50 ppm Nitrites have gone way up almost off the chart. at least 5.o ppm. 
Once the ammonia gets to zero do I need to do a small water change or just start adding ammonia every other day back into the tank at a rate of 1/2 the amount of drops which I started with?


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

I wouldn't do any water changes. From my experience, after the initial ammonia reading from your first dosage drops to zero, you'll drop daily dosages that are equal half to the first dosage. So for me, I started with 300 drops, then after ammonia dropped to zero, began dosing 150 drops a day. And be patient. It will seem like nitrites will never appear, but they will, then they will never drop and convert to nitrate, but they will too. Just takes time. Good luck!


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

Day 16. Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0. Here is my first Nitrate reading. Where do I stand at this point?


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## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

Looks like you're cycled


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

Go ahead and order fish for overnight delivery on tuesday?


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

Ship monday arrive tuesday. What do I need to do with my tank for the next four days?


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## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

How many fish and how many ppm of ammonia is your tank processing a day?


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

100 drops in 50 gal every 24 hours. Wanting to do a full load of 16 juveniles. AC 110 hob and Sunsun 304b


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## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

I'd say you're good to go, anyone else disagree?


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Agree, get your fish.

But I suggest a couple water changes over the next few days to drop that nitrate in the 5-10 range


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## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

+1 Iggy


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

+2. Night before fish arrive, do a 50% WC. You are ready to go.


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

When I do the water changes, which one of these products should I add to the tap water before going in? One is just a dechlorinator and the other removes or masks more. Thank You all for the help by the way.


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## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

I suggest using Prime. It's concentrated so you use a lot less and it lasts longer. Plus all those slime coat enhancers and junk are unnecessary.


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

I will get some prime later but I need to know which one of the two would be the better choice?


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

Also, is there more than one type of prime? Can you post a pic of the one I need to buy eventually.


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## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

I guess the API stuff since I've never heard of the other brand. Here's what prime looks like


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

Excellent! Thank You


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## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

No problem


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## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

I also recommend getting Prime. I started with the API product and ended up chucking it after using Prime. My fish were all rubbing against rocks and seemed uncomfortable after water changes with API and that all stopped after using Prime.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

illmatic40 said:


> When I do the water changes, which one of these products should I add to the tap water before going in? One is just a dechlorinator and the other removes or masks more. Thank You all for the help by the way.


Either product you have will work, just use them until you run out or if you see issues with your fish. No sense in wasting the products if you have them and they work. Only use one product at a time, no need to use both at the same time.


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## illmatic40 (Jul 26, 2017)

Thanks everyone


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