# 55 Gallon, DIY background project~!



## CichlidLover2 (Jul 31, 2005)

Alright so I've finally decided to make one of these bad boys! I've enjoyed the pictures I've seen of them and think it would be a great project for me and my dad to finish together (teen bonding right?)

So before I do officially start the construction of this future masterpiece I just need a little bit of info from the pros.

1. How will I make sure that the filters will still be able to do their job? Is there a certain way I need to design the background so that the intakes wont be covered up? I have 2 Emperor 400's running.

2. Will the concrete affect the water chemistry at all? (pH wise)

Thats it for now! Once I get those questions answered I am going to begin on the long process and try to keep it updated with pictures nightly. Thank in advance for all your input and suggestions! :thumb:


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## a_c_arnold (Mar 7, 2008)

Depends on what kind of filter you have. When I designed my filter I had a HOB and had no choice but to carve out an area for the intake and make some holes in the background for the water to be pulled through. The return just flowed in over the top of the background. If you had a canister just put the intake and return away from one another. I designed one for a friend and used an overhanging rock at the intake instead of just making holes which I prefer.[/img]


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## CichlidLover2 (Jul 31, 2005)

Well if I made a hole for the intake it would be covered by a smaller pile of rocks in the front anyway.

I sketched some cool background ideas in biology class today  I'll try to upload them or make a version on paint so you guys can comment/suggest new things.


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## CichlidLover2 (Jul 31, 2005)

Here is the picture that I sketched. Its pretty vague and doesn't even show the actual background pattern, just the mods I added to it.

The actual background will also have rocks in if the 3 portions where I have slate sticking out are just tunnel entrances. I purposefully made the middle one high so if anything were to get stuck it would float to the top.

I think they will really like the tunnels! I just need a way of lining the tunnels I was thinking maybe PVC or maybe just some type or rubbery material? I will also add some caves that "cave into the background" towards the bottom of the tank to act as breeding grounds.

I just hope the slate wont be too heavy for the Styrofoam to sustain, I might have to sub the slate rock for a slate module made of foam but we will see what happens. I hope I will be able to fit all this stuff in... if you wanna see my tank now, its under my tank section its the 55 gallon.

I am also thinking of removing some plants I drew in there that were siliconed to the slate rock.










Please leave some suggestions or input, I'll probably go buy some styrofoam this weekend and start!


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## CichlidLover2 (Jul 31, 2005)

Does anyone have ANY input? Sorry if I sound impatient I just want to see if there is any problems with this set-up, or if there is anything I should add.

Thanks


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

You did get some feedback here and also when you brought up a similar subject earlier.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=184849

Not much alkalinity will leach out of the concrete, unless you try too hard. The concrete stops leaching out stuff in about two weeks, the same time frame as establishing a biological filter. It is the bioactive film on the concrete that stops more alkalinity from escaping.


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## CichlidLover2 (Jul 31, 2005)

So what if I am adding the background to an existing tank, it is already established but I want to be able to safely add it without any dead fish if possible.

Also I did recieve some feedback but barely any. I want to see if my sketch would even work. It would be nice to have some people that have experience with these backgrounds to give me a few pointers before I started. I have looked at some other tutorial threads but from what I have seen mine is a little different with the tunnels and caves.

Also should I use the slate into the foam or make my own slate mods?


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## nipzie (Nov 24, 2008)

I've done many tunnels and caves in my own, it will work fine as long as you've designed it well. Nothing looks wrong at all with your picture. you are only limited by your imagination. I've even done a 4 foot long tunnel entering from one side and coming out the other. Just try not to make any tight spots, I made the tunnels bigger/wider than the tunnel opening and you won't have to worry about fish getting stuck. Always have at least two openings, three or more for bigger ones for escape routes if fish decide to fight for a cave and the loser wants to turn tail and run. To hide your filter you just need make a concave hollow at the back of the background for you're intake to sit down into. to hide it, make the outcropping go down further than the intake, then from a downward going upward angle cut an access hole for water to reach the your intake. by doing it this way, someone would have to get down and look up to see your filter intake, and by manipulating the angle of the cut you can make sure no one can get low enough to see your equipment. For the return spillways, you could make a waterfall over the background or a spillway that looks like it's eroded out from water flow. That's just off the top of my head. I've been spoiled with canister filters for some time now and use an inline heater on the filter intake so I don't have to worry about water flow over an internal heater. I have never tried adding to a running tank, and don't know your setup to really make a call on it, but i can say that being able to dry fit is truly invaluable. If you find the same size tank someone is throwing out due to broken glass or seal, you could use that for your fitting/designing/refitting/looks good to me stages of assembly.


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## CichlidLover2 (Jul 31, 2005)

Yeah I work at an LFS so I'll just design it around a 55gallon we have there I guess.

So as far as how I should add my tank. Anyone have suggestions? And I am moving soon so the reason why I wanted to do the background was so when I drain the tank for the move I might be able to put it in the day before we move. Would that be a good idea? Should I soak the background after I cover it with concrete? I wouldn't want it to leech anything harmful into the tank if I add it right away.


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## nipzie (Nov 24, 2008)

it will still cure out of water, but water curing makes water accessible to the concrete as it hardens. Take it outside after it has hardened for a couple days and hose it down to get rid of residue, otherwise I've found gray residue floats free and settles on any horizontal surface. If you leave it outside leave it in the shade and cover it with plastic, to prevent the concrete from drying out as you live in sunny CA. If you are really worried about leaching try to find some Thoroseal and seal it. That will keep a barrier between the concrete and the water.


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