# Aragonite



## rich_t (Nov 26, 2009)

I believe that it acts as a pH buffer, but does it actually raise the pH?

If I needed to lower the pH in my tank with aragonite as a substrate how would I go about it?

Or do I need to replace the aragonite with a another type of substrate?


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## Agridion (Sep 8, 2010)

Yes Aragonite will raise the PH of your water to roughly 8.2. Which is perfect for marine and African cichlid tanks. I don't think it will lower your PH unless your water had done ridiculous high of around 13 or 14.


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

Aragonite cannot lower pH. Not possible... A pH of 13 or 14? A pH of 14 is toxic to human life... :lol:

*rich_t*
It would be virtually impossible to lower your pH with aragonite in the tank. With aragonite, the pH will be anywhere from about 7.8 to 8.2 and any acid will simply disolve some of the aragonite and the pH will return to where it wants to be.


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## Agridion (Sep 8, 2010)

Number6 said:


> Aragonite cannot lower pH. Not possible... A pH of 13 or 14? A pH of 14 is toxic to human life... :lol:


I know that a 13 or 14 is toxic to life but theoretically anything with a lower ph should drop a higher PH's number. That is what I was getting at. :wink: I guess I wasn't very clear on that.


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## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

> Yes Aragonite will raise the PH of your water


Thats an incomplete story. Aragonite or crushed coral only aid to stabilize the KH (they are poor buffers, especially crushed coral) and cannot replace a true KH buffer. True buffering is necessary due to fluctuating KH or pH whatever the cause may be.

Crushed Coral is primarily made up of Calcium Carbonates (CaCO3) and has VERY LITTLE bicarbonates while Aragonite is of similar constitution, but has a much better surface area for dissolving of minerals making it a better choice of the two. Some Aragonites (that have high carbonate content) are useful at stabilizing a higher kH of around 240 ppm or more, which is the minimum KH (alkalinity) needed for Marine Aquariums, but it does not respond to changes quickly enough when carbonic acids are produced at a rapid rate in an aquarium (usually a high bio load or large amounts of organic mulm will cause this).

What Crushed Coral are somewhat better at is in adding the necessary minerals (GH) and in the case of Aragonite, it generally has a few more minerals in higher concentrations such as the important mineral (for corals), Strontium.

*QUOTE :* This said, despite the popular use of crushed coral for pH/KH control in African Cichlids, it is a poor choice for this, especially in high bio load aquariums due to the FACT of its mineral make up (you CANNOT make a mineral appear out of nowhere that does not exist and that seems to be what many mistakenly believe when using crushed coral to increase KH/pH), this is an unfortunate Ã¢â‚¬Å"aquatic mythÃ¢â‚¬Â


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## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

Another misconception with many aquarists is that whilst Calcium & Magnesium are essential elements required in tank water, not all Calcium say, in the form of a Aragonite or Coral substrate is adding Calcium throughout the life of the tank.

Ca & Mg are important elements of the water GH. Now, suppose, you had a lead battery for powering an equipment say. The electrode is made of Lead i.e. Pb and the water contains Sulphuric acid H2SO4. When you connect the electrodes to an electrical equipment, electricity flows due to a potential difference created but what happens to the electrodes ???

The Lead (and Lead Oxide) electrode is converted by reaction with the acid into Lead Sulphate. This Lead Sulphate also contains Lead. Now, does it mean that the battery will continue providing electricity just because Lead still remains as an element in the battery ??? The answer is NO. Lead still exists but in the form of Lead Sulphate. So after a period of time, the battery is discharged. The same thing happens with the Ca & Mg, even if they are provided by the Aragonite or Coral substrate. After a period of time, Ca remains in the water but in some different molecular form. This Ca/Mg isnt of any use for maintaining the GH.

Hence, Aragonite or Coral substrate isnt a permanent solution. Depletion of Ca & Mg cations must be made up by addition of these elements as a substitute in a form such that they can be used.

Also to be remembered is that Ca as a compound form in the substrate doesent directly affect the KH. Ca affects the GH, though indirectly it does help in maintaining the PH to a lesser extent.


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## Agridion (Sep 8, 2010)

So fishy_cichlid would you recommend baking soda, eposm salt and some regular aquarium salts for buffering an aquarium or something else entirely?


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## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

Since the topic was on substrate, I would say Aragonite is good as any other substrate, maybe even better than most. My reasoning is that ..... Aragonite or crushed coral as a substrate must be fully understood ...... as a substrate very good, BUT as a lifelong supplier of Calcium or a great Ph maintaining element - NO.

I would still use Baking Soda + Epsom Salt. Maybe even Calcium chloride at times, to add Calcium. However, needs mentioning that too high GH (over 500ppm) can result in respiratory problem for the fish - can be pretty dangerous.


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## rich_t (Nov 26, 2009)

Perhaps I was unclear in the wording of my original question.

If I decide to restock my tank with fish that do better at lower pH levels, do I need to replace the aragonite substrate that I currently have?

My current tank pH is 7.8. But if I decide to change to fish that do better with 7 or below pH.

I hope that make the intent of my question more clear.

My apologizes if I caused confusion with the wording in my OP.


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## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

From the various articles that I have read, many seem to suggest that Aragonite can continue as a supplement for providing the mineral cations in the tank preferably in a sock inside the filter. Wonder shells & AragaMight are a better option for providing the mineral through the filter media or drip method.

The method of using aragonite is that, it is less responsive to rapid changes in positive mineral ion needs in FW (especially planted aquariums) than the use of Mineral Blocks or drip methods. Mineral Blocks such as Wonder Shells that dissolve slowly are thus able to keep a more balanced positive mineral ion level in the tank, is a better method.

Some have used tap water diluted with RO water followed by addition of electrolytes in the form of Epsom salt & Wonder Shells along with natural acid buffers like Peat in the filter of a FW tanks for fish like Discus, Bettas, Ram Cichlids etc.

For an advanced, detailed knowledge on Aquarium setups and maintenance, you can also study the necessity of REDOX BALANCE in an aquarium.


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