# Project Tanzania - the 180G Craigslist dream tank. PHOTOS



## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

OK so here we go... Tis project will take a couple of months to complete and hash out, so I want to document it here. Its a huge undertaking for me, but I think I can handle it allright. Goal is to have fish in the tank by Christmas or sooner.

In this thread I will post pictures of progress, and ask for help from the experts, and those more in the know than me. My goal is for this tank to be the centerpeice of my downstairs room (finished basement) and the home of ~9 Placidiochromis Tanzania.

My budget for the first stage of this build is $500-600. This doesnt include fish and plants, just the basic setup. A 180g setup for $500? I must be joking, right? Nope. Not even. In fact, Im going to do it with Co2 and UV for that, and have quality equipment to include Eheim filters to boot. Heres how:

The Craiglist score - $300
180G glass tank, with glass tops
Homeade stand, decent.
2X Eheim Pro II 2026
1X Jabo knock off eheim 2026 clone (Not planned for use in this build-but available)
3X AC110, used, working. (Not planned to use for this build)
2X Aquamedic Co2 reactor 1000
CO2 tank + regulator and flow meter
1X Coralife turbo twist UV 18W. (bad bulb)
1X Generic 72" 4x 96W power compact light fixture. (2 bad bulbs - tested - may replace this light - maybe not)
1X Coralife 20" 96W PC fixture (not used for build - went on my lightless 10g nursery)
1X Coralife 24" 65W PC fixture (not used for build - needs bulb, tested working)
1X Coralife 48" 4x 65W PC fixture (not planned to be used for build - but available)
1X Coralife 48" 2X T5NO fixture (Not planned for used in this build, but available)

Several boxes of misc hardware, electonic water monitoring devices, hoses, fittings, meds, pumps, powerheads, old crusty heaters (which I threw away) small power filters, media, filter carts, breeder boxes , automatic fish feeder PC bulbs that dont fit my stuff, just decades of stuff.

What I still need, and might need:
Better lighting. I dont like PC. I like T5HO. My 75 has t5HO and its.... glorious. I have two 6700, a 12000 and an actinic blue in it. and with the ability to turn each tube on and off, I get a variety of light for what ever i want. My anubias could care less, but the quality of light fro a t5ho is epic. Thayt said, 72" fixtures are stupid expensive, and this one is free. I may add additional t5ho fixtures . I may keep it, fiddle with the bulbs. I may sell it and replace it with t5HO. Im not sure yet. The tank has 3 supports, that would allow me to add 3 seperate 24" T5HO units. The only T5HO I can really afford on my budget, are the ebay units. Im not sure they are worth it. Im not sure what to do here, as I do want a decent amount of plants in this tank. Im leanign towards running the PC until it starts to fail, and adding auxiallary lighting to it.

Possibly extra filtration. I dont like the fact Im running so close to the limit of these to eheims. I could use the generic as a third, and thats an option. What I REALLY wanted was a 20L auxillary sump and an overflow box. However - Sumps and Co2.... Not sure that would be a good idea with the outgassing it would cause. With 9 fish, do I really need more than the two eheims? Certainly its enough to start, and an overflow box with sump, or extra canister can always be added, and theres always the eheim clone to fall back on.

Heaters. Eheim Jager. Twin 200's? a single 300? Never done a tank this big so I dont know whats best

replacement bulbs for lights, UV, etc. New filter media for the Eheims. Plumbing, Incidentals. I may reuse some of the hoses if I can clean them up.

On to the first pics! The tank is disgusting and the back and frame is painted with a brush and can latex paint. YUCK. Clean up the tank, scrape paint, re paint frame with textured spray.

GROSS!









Stand. Its going to get some more trim added, and painted a nicer color. New hardware. 









Water test. Holds water. No leaks! scraped and cleaned off most of the ****. Thats 20:1 bleach mix or so. 









Eheim filter flow test. They work, and are now being cleaned. yes My garage is a train wreck right now LOL









Next I will scrape the paint off the tank and frame. Soaok and clean the eheims, tubing, and co2 reactors.


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## JimA (Nov 7, 2009)

Nice, Id say you gat a heck of a deal! I know the tank didn't leak but how does the silicone look overall?? It's not that hard to re-do it if needed, and since you are starting from scratch might be worth it.. Those Eheims are around 400 plus per if not more new! Again I think you got a very good deal :thumb: The rest of the odds and end stuff you can probably re-sale and make some cash back!


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Looks like you're off to a good start.

I would say go for two heaters, you may even need two 250 or 300 watt ones. Its always best to have two that way if one breaks down you still have one running.

Sumps are nice, but a lot of work to setup. Because of back flow a 20L would probably not be big enough anyway. You would want at least a 40Br better yet a 55G on this size tank. I'm not sure how sumps work with CO2. I think it has been done. Do you know the GPH rating for your Eheims?


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

The Eheims are rated for up to 100G (x2) 
Specs say -
Aquarium size - 92 gallon
Pump output, 251 GPH
Filter circulation - 172 GPH

I dont think I can get a 40 breeder or 55 gallon through the doors of the stand. It would have to go in , then the tank go on. If it ever needed to be removed....... well... not pleasant.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Again, you sure got a lot of stuff for the money!

Regarding the paint on the tank trim, try using Denatured Alcohol and paper towels to see if it removes the paint. I've had success using that method. Or you can just lightly sand the existing paint and then repaint with the color of your choice. For the back glass of the tank, use a razor scraper with a wide blade as it's much quicker and easier on the fingers.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> The Eheims are rated for up to 100G (x2)
> Specs say -
> Aquarium size - 92 gallon
> Pump output, 251 GPH
> ...


Depending on how many and big of fish you put in the tank you will definetly need more filtration. 502GPH is nowhere near enough. You want to aim for 8-10x the tank volume per hour, especially with cichlids.

I would say try a 30G then. I just don't think a 20G would be big enough for such a large tank. I plan to use a 30G on my 75G tank if I ever build a sump.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

But is a sump OK with Co2? Im not even sure I ened Co2 in this tank, but I want lots of plants. Petco's dollar per gallon sale is on, and I could get a 29G as a sump. a 40 breeder maybe - But i wouldnt be able to get it out of the stand....

Are you saying I should forego the canisters and go sump? I do have a sump on my 75G.

My plan is 9 fish, placidiochromis tanzania.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> But is a sump OK with Co2? Im not even sure I ened Co2 in this tank, but I want lots of plants. Petco's dollar per gallon sale is on, and I could get a 29G as a sump. a 40 breeder maybe - But i wouldnt be able to get it out of the stand....
> 
> Are you saying I should forego the canisters and go sump? I do have a sump on my 75G.
> 
> My plan is 9 fish, placidiochromis tanzania.


How big do those fish get?

Skip the 29G and go for the 30. Longer tanks make better sumps. You should be able to get it out of your stand. 30's are the same length as 40BR only narrower.

You could stick with canisters, but I just don't know if they would be enough filtration for such a large tank. They would certainly work while your fish are juvies, but if they grow very large at all you will want a lot of filtration.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

10 inches max. *** never had canisters, but why are they rated for 100 gallons each if they arent sufficient? I understood eheims to be low flow filters?


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

if I used a 40 breeder sump, would that alone be sufficent filtration for the tank? I may just build a 40 breeder sump into it and be done with it..

Thoughts?


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## audierou (Jul 25, 2012)

IME if you want to use the canisters, thats fine. I use two canisters on my 150 hap tank. Just be prepared to do a 25% water change on a weekly basis. Your fish will be happy.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Id honestly rather use what I have... IF its safe for the fish.

The rating on the eheims is 92 gallons per. I know youre supposed to over filter though.

Im not sure what way to go.....


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

IMO filters are always way overrated. Even though the two filters you have add up to 182 gallons I still don't think they will be enough in the long run. Maybe consider running one of them and an fx6 or Aquatop cf500uv as well. As I said before, you should be ok for awhile as your fish grow. This is just my opinions tho.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Part of the resason Im here is opinions. I want to do this right the first time. Boy FX6 is EXPENSIVE!. Wow. I do have the clone Eheim as well... I could add that as a third if I had to.

10x would be 1800 GPH... Thats a massive pump.


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## JimA (Nov 7, 2009)

On my 240 I use 1 FX5 and 2 aquatop 400s and do 25 to 50% water changes a week.. 33 Tropheus Rainbows, not huge fish by any means I suppose that will make a difference in what you choose to stock..


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Part of the resason Im here is opinions. I want to do this right the first time. Boy FX6 is EXPENSIVE!. Wow. I do have the clone Eheim as well... I could add that as a third if I had to.
> 
> 10x would be 1800 GPH... Thats a massive pump.


Maintaining three filters would be alot, plus i would think that all the tubing for the filters would not look that good in the back of your tank. I would try to two Ehiems and see how it goes and then consider replacing one of them with a larger filter. The aquatop is MUCH cheaper than the fx6.

1800GPH is not that uncommon for a return sump pump. They are relatively in expensive.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Actually the magdrive supreme 1800 gph is $134 at big als. Thats not bad. Its only about $35 more than the 1300 gph marineland I have on my 75g.

You may be right on the maintaining 2-3 canisters thing. if not for my CO2 concerns, and If I didnt have these Eheims, I'd for sure go sump. I guess I could keep the eheims as spares or for future use. They ARE great filters, and would probably work really well on my 75g if I were to redo it. My 75G is drilled though.

I could always sell them too, or just sell one. The sump is "always" better too, I hear... Decisions.... Deciosions....


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

So thinking - My options are as follows with regards to the filtration.

1. Ditch Eheims, go sump.
2. Keep Eheims, add third canister later (aquatop UV looks attractive)
3. Keep Eheims, add third canister to start. 
4. Keep Eheims, run auxillary HOB (I dont want HOB, I think theyre tacky)

Canisters cons - Maintenance of multipule units, probably more power consumption.
Canisters pros - Better for Co2. maybe a bit quieter. Less bulky. Already have enough to start out.

Sump cons - Cost. wasted opportunity on filters that came with my setup. CO2 outgassing. need to buy overflow box, parts, pumps. 
Sump pros - better filtration, more efficient, no need to upgrade, and all the other benefits of sumps, like a place for the heaters, to add water, etc.


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## Koteckn (May 16, 2012)

This takes the cost out of buying a sump, build one. It's a lot simpler than you think and you're able to customize it any way you'd like. Here's a link to my build - http://cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... 0&t=246505.
Personally, with a tank that large, you could run a 30gal sump and (one or both) the canisters for optimal filtration. Me, and I'm sure a lot of other members on this site, would only consider a sump for anything larger than 100 gallons mainly because it makes sense and causes less headaches as long as everything is thought out and planned prior to running into problems (sump overflow etc.).
Good luck and document your build for us all.
- H


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Actually the magdrive supreme 1800 gph is $134 at big als. Thats not bad. Its only about $35 more than the 1300 gph marineland I have on my 75g.
> 
> You may be right on the maintaining 2-3 canisters thing. if not for my CO2 concerns, and If I didnt have these Eheims, I'd for sure go sump. I guess I could keep the eheims as spares or for future use. They ARE great filters, and would probably work really well on my 75g if I were to redo it. My 75G is drilled though.
> 
> I could always sell them too, or just sell one. The sump is "always" better too, I hear... Decisions.... Deciosions....


I like your idea of not using the canisters on this tank and saving them for another build or selling them. If you at all feel like you might set up another tank someday I would hold onto at least one of them. I would love to have a spare Ehiem or two in my fish supply closet. 

I think that CO2 should work ok with a sump. If you are concerned about it disolving before reaching the tank put it directly in the tank. Maybe some one else in this forum would know more about that as I've never used CO2.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Problem. 40B will not fit in the stand at any angle. Wont fit thru the doors, top, even if I cut a door in the sides, the side bracing makes it 1" shy of being able to slide in.

In short, without tearing the stand apart, theres no way to get the 40 Breeder in it.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Problem. 40B will not fit in the stand at any angle. Wont fit thru the doors, top, even if I cut a door in the sides, the side bracing makes it 1" shy of being able to slide in.
> 
> In short, without tearing the stand apart, theres no way to get the 40 Breeder in it.


Bummer! Is it too wide or too long? You could maybe try a 30G.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

I could bust a brace out, then replace. That makes me nervous though. The stand is super will built. Its too long. I could take a 30" tank thru the top. 
Is 29/ 30 gallons adequate? I could cut a door in the side with out effecting structural integrity. I may do this. I melonite door from lowes is fairly cheap. The distance between braces on the side, front to back, is 17". Just an inch too short for the 40B to go in from the side. 
The price of a 30 breeder, **** I could just buy an eshopps wet / dry by the time I built a sump out of it. Theyre stupid expensive if you can find one.

Fail, LOL :


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> I could bust a brace out, then replace. That makes me nervous though. The stand is super will built. Its too long. I could take a 30" tank thru the top.
> Is 29/ 30 gallons adequate? I could cut a door in the side with out effecting structural integrity. I may do this. I melonite door from lowes is fairly cheap. The distance between braces on the side, front to back, is 17". Just an inch too short for the 40B to go in from the side.
> The price of a 30 breeder, #%$& I could just buy an eshopps wet / dry by the time I built a sump out of it. Theyre stupid expensive if you can find one.
> 
> Fail, LOL :


Wow, that is a tight squeeze! Man, I dunno, a 29G tank would be cutting it close. How for is the bottom of the overflow from the top of the tank? You want to make sure there's enough room in the sump if the pump stops working and your tank fills the sump until the water is below the overflow. If it is about 2" than you can use this formula to figure out how many gallons you will need.

L x w x H/ 231 cubic inches = gallons needed

So for a 180G tank it would be:

72 x 24 x 2/231 = 14.96 gallons of backflow

This means you could have just about 13 gallons of water in the sump.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Tank isnt drilled - would be overflow boxes.

Tight squeeze not even. It will NOT fit. I can remove the brace....

Lets Re-assess.
1. Cut brace out. Install 40g. Rebrace. Id use a strong-tie for this. I Still dont like it. 2200 pounds isnt something you screw around with. 
2. 29/30G sump instead
2a. Cost - $30-50 for tank. $50-60 overflow boxes. $140-150 mag drive 1800 GPH pump $50 sump building supplies total - $300. Worth it? Im starting to think it is not worth all that. 1800 GPH thru a 40 breeder sump? Sure - but if Im down to a 29/30 and wedging it around in there? 
3. Would $300 be better spent on a single Fluval FX-5 / FX-6? Its over 900 GPH and rated for a 400 gallon tank. A New FX-6 can be had for $340 shipped. Would a fluval FX6 carry the load of this tank stocked? *** seen alot of people running them on tanks in the 150-180 range.

Im not sure i want a sump smaller than 40 gallons on a 180. Replacing the brace is simple but it makes me very nervous. Im a handy person, and all, etc I have no issue with doing the job. I could also consult an engineer at work about the structural integrity of the design. I would assume the cross braces support the bottom glass of the tank and add stability from side load, while the outer frame carries the load itsself.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

If you remove the braces would you put the back? I think this could be done, but then you are stuck with a 40B under you tank forever. I would probably do this, but that's just me.

I think with one of your Ehiems and an fx6 you should be ok for a long while. When you fish grow out you might notice that your tank is getting extra dirty and it that means its time to add another fx6. 

I think you could build a sump for less than $300. Look for used tanks in your area and maybe a cheaper pump.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

The eshopps 200 gallon pre made sump works out to be about 30 gallons......


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

I dunno I think Im going to ask the engineers at work tomorrow about removing and reinstalling a cross brace using stign ties. Im guessing most of the weight is held by the outer frame.

Yes the sump will be in there pretty much permanently.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> I dunno I think Im going to ask the engineers at work tomorrow about removing and reinstalling a cross brace using stign ties. Im guessing most of the weight is held by the outer frame.
> 
> Yes the sump will be in there pretty much permanently.


I believe that is correct, most of the weight is held by the outer edge, the inner bracing just provides stability and load baring for the stand. My 75G stand doesn't even have a brace. I realize that this is a much bigger tank, but it should be ok no matter how you reattach it. Good idea to check with the engineer tho.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

you know something else that concerns me about a sump. This tank isnt drillable (tempered) and I woudlnt risk it on a used tank anyway..... But I hear those HOB overflow boxes are prone to casue floods.....

I may yet stay canister.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> you know something else that concerns me about a sump. This tank isnt drillable (tempered) and I woudlnt risk it on a used tank anyway..... But I hear those HOB overflow boxes are prone to casue floods.....
> 
> I may yet stay canister.


Yes, I've heard that too. You could make DIY overflows. They are pretty easy to make out of PVC. They are not quite as sleek as overflows or a drilled tank, but I think they would look better than all the tubing and spraybars from three canisters. Just a thought.


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## Bowfront (Jun 3, 2013)

To make it easier to understand you would need at least 3 of those filters to get adequate filtration for your 180 gallon tank.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

What about fx5s? How many of those would I need?

Also budget update.... total spent reduced to $225. Sold conductivity monitor for $75.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Also, engineers at work confirm I can remvoe and replace center brace if needed. Outside of stand is main load bearing, not cross braces. Cross braces are supporting of bottom of tank, and stability.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Also, engineers at work confirm I can remvoe and replace center brace if needed. Outside of stand is main load bearing, not cross braces. Cross braces are supporting of bottom of tank, and stability.


This is good news! Now time to work on those DIY overflows. 

Otherwise, you could do this:

1. Run both Ehiems while your fish are small. Be sure to do weekly water changes of at least 25%.
2. Sell one Ehiem and pick up a fx6 when they grow out a bit. Still do weekly water changes. 
3. Sell the other Ehiem and get another fx6 when they have gotten even larger.

I think two fx6's would be just enough with nine 10" fish since they are rated at 900GPH. Sump would always be better, but if that's just not feasible this is the next best option.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

clhinds78 said:


> Borsig said:
> 
> 
> > Also, engineers at work confirm I can remvoe and replace center brace if needed. Outside of stand is main load bearing, not cross braces. Cross braces are supporting of bottom of tank, and stability.
> ...


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

I am leaning heavily towards removing the brace, installing the 40g and kitting it out as a sump / wet dry / multi filter type thing.

That being said, i dont think I want to trust a DIY HOB Overflow. Too risky. Not from what *** read. I think I may get eshopps HOB overflows.

Lets say we do go sump here.... using the ehsopps product line of HOB overfloes as a guide - What would be the best for this 6 ft tank-

a single, PF 1800 1.5 inch dual bulk heads (1600 GPH) $90
Dual PF 1200 1" bulk heads (1000 gph ea) $75 ea
Dual PF 1000 1" bulk heads (900 gph ea) $65 ea

*** never run a tank this big. If I go this route, should it have an overflow on each side of the tank? Or Just one on one side, or one in the middle?

I plan on using a Supreme Mag drive 18 (1800 gph) if I go this sump route.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Have you seen this DIY overflow video? I think these are pretty safe. I would trust this guy. Even $90 seems like a lot to spend on an overflow.






If you're still nervous about it I understand. You can never underestimate the important of peace of mind in this hobby.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Looks simple enough but what's the reliability of it? What's to keep it from breaking syphon?


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Looks simple enough but what's the reliability of it? What's to keep it from breaking syphon?


The stand pipes keep the syphon going. I know many that use this model with success. This is what I plan to use when I add a sump to my tank.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

I dont know if I trust it. I think the only way I'd run such a setup, is to have a float switch on the tank that kills the pump if it begins to overfill due to a syphon break. I belive firmly in automatic, redundant fail safes. I work at a nuclear research lab as a tech. They beat that stuff into us.

That being said, protection in the form of a high level in the tank, and a run-dry fail safe in the sump to prevent my pump from burning up would be required for me to go the sump route. If i can manage to devise something for that, I will probably go sump.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> I dont know if I trust it. I think the only way I'd run such a setup, is to have a float switch on the tank that kills the pump if it begins to overfill due to a syphon break. I belive firmly in automatic, redundant fail safes. I work at a nuclear research lab as a tech. They beat that stuff into us.
> 
> That being said, protection in the form of a high level in the tank, and a run-dry fail safe in the sump to prevent my pump from burning up would be required for me to go the sump route. If i can manage to devise something for that, I will probably go sump.


Sounds like a good plan. A lot of folks use a float switch on the pump to shut it off if the syphon breaks. In the case of pump fail just makre sure there's enough water in the sump if the tank drains below the overflow and you should be good to go.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

any ideas on a cost effective, 110v aquarium float level cut out control / switch I could use for this purpose?

I may try the DIY's if I have enough protection.

Question is, what is the flow rate of a DIY overflow at 1 1/2 inches. How does that compare to the overflow box rated at 1600.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

FYI- cost of twin 2" PVC DIY overflows, ~$65. Thats just for the pipe. Not including an aqualifter if I got that route.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> FYI- cost of twin 2" PVC DIY overflows, ~$65. Thats just for the pipe. Not including an aqualifter if I got that route.


I'm surprised its that much for PVC. Its still cheaper than a overflow box, but a it is more work.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> any ideas on a cost effective, 110v aquarium float level cut out control / switch I could use for this purpose?
> 
> I may try the DIY's if I have enough protection.
> 
> Question is, what is the flow rate of a DIY overflow at 1 1/2 inches. How does that compare to the overflow box rated at 1600.


In that video he shows a chart with flow rate of different sized PVC.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Once I have more time I will add it up and get exact numbers for the PVC system.

With my planned UGJ's that will be alot of piping in the tank. If its within $40, Id probably still go for the HOB Overflow unit.

That being said - Check out the failsafe switches here:

www.autotopoff.com

About $50 and I can have a dual protection unit. a very wise investment IMO


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Once I have more time I will add it up and get exact numbers for the PVC system.
> 
> With my planned UGJ's that will be alot of piping in the tank. If its within $40, Id probably still go for the HOB Overflow unit.
> 
> ...


Oh, I didn't know you were doing UGJs. That will be a lot of plumbing. At least you can paint the overflows black to blend in.

Double failsafe is probably a good idea. Man, this sump is really starting to add up huh? With the tank, plump, plumbing, switch and media it iwll probably be close to $300. Oh well, i think you will like it a lot more than a canister. You tank will be virtually equipment free!


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Less than the cost of a single fluval FX5/6 new.

Arent UGJ highly recommended for a tank this size?

Anyway - yes about $300 for the sump if I use a tank aI already have. Id like to find a used 50G sump box , but good luck with that.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Less than the cost of a single fluval FX5/6 new.
> 
> Arent UGJ highly recommended for a tank this size?
> 
> Anyway - yes about $300 for the sump if I use a tank aI already have. Id like to find a used 50G sump box , but good luck with that.


Even spending the extra money on overflow boxes and failsafes I think you will still come out ahead. I think 40G will be large enough if you can't find a sump box as long as you only put about 20G of water in it.

I'm not sure about the UGJs. I've never setup a tank this large. I don't think they are necessary, but would reduce maintenance.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

I havent decided fully on UGJ or timed powerheads. I may do powerheads that come on every 4 hours for 15 minutes. Not 100% sure yet.

Progress:
Texture finish on tank frame nearing completion. The frame was a mess with that **** latex paint all over it. I'll need to gove over this with polycrilic or something. Its not going to be durable at all unless I do.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> I havent decided fully on UGJ or timed powerheads. I may do powerheads that come on every 4 hours for 15 minutes. Not 100% sure yet.
> 
> Progress:
> Texture finish on tank frame nearing completion. The frame was a mess with that darn latex paint all over it. I'll need to gove over this with polycrilic or something. Its not going to be durable at all unless I do.


Looks like a big job!

I use a single circulation pump in my 75G. It's rated at 1250GPH and seems to be plenty for a 4' tank. Right now I run it constantly, but I'm thinking about getting a timer. Maybe two of those or something a little slower might do the job. I forgot, are you using sand or gravel in this tank?


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

I wanted black diamond sand at first. Wife pressing for natural color sand. Pool filter sand it is.

I think cichlids should have sand


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> I wanted black diamond sand at first. Wife pressing for natural color sand. Pool filter sand it is.
> 
> I think cichlids should have sand


Oh yes, for sure. Black diamond sand would be nice, but its would be costly for such a large tank. PFS will be MUCH cheaper!


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## Koteckn (May 16, 2012)

PFS is also a lot cleaner to rinse from the get go.


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

I get black diamond for $8 a 50 pound bag. Its literally cheaper than dirt (potting soil) LOL.

So the 72" PC light has a bad ballast and 1 bad bulb. I THINK I found a compatible ballast for ~$25. a four pack of bulbs on ebay is $50. Bulb converters are $20 to go from four pin square to four pin straight. I dont like PC, though. The ballasts int are coralife, so surprisingly, its a coralife light. I thought it was generic.

PC - Ballast $25, bulbs pack $50, converters - $20 = $95 and will have 3 spare bulbs ( I have one spare already)
New T5HO Generic - 3X 24" fixtures, 4 tubes per - $210

T5HO more versatility, more customizable, more efficient, bulbs last much longer. I may see what I can get for the PC light. I relly like the idea of 3x 24" quad tube lights. 72 inch units are crazy expensive, and the 24" bulbs are $8 ea at my LPS. For $100 more, I think Id rather have new lighting. I may list this one on CL and see if I can get 50 for it.

For $100 more than restorign this one, Id rather have t5ho. Especially if I can get $50 for it. Then Id only be spending 150, which is 50 more than revamping this one.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> I get black diamond for $8 a 50 pound bag. Its literally cheaper than dirt (potting soil) LOL.
> 
> So the 72" PC light has a bad ballast and 1 bad bulb. I THINK I found a compatible ballast for ~$25. a four pack of bulbs on ebay is $50. Bulb converters are $20 to go from four pin square to four pin straight. I dont like PC, though. The ballasts int are coralife, so surprisingly, its a coralife light. I thought it was generic.
> 
> ...


OH, you meant blasting sand? Ya, that stuff is cheap!

Ya, I'd spend the extra $50 to get a new light!


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Also, blasting sand is so cheap because there is basically no nutrients in it. You were planning to do plants, right?


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## Borsig (Nov 21, 2012)

Yes. Diamond is coal slag. I'm going to do pfs over flourite I think


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Borsig said:


> Yes. Diamond is coal slag. I'm going to do pfs over flourite I think


I've never done sand and flourite together so I don't know how it would work, but it should be ok. Usually the sand rises to the top anyway.


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