# Best way to set up rocks?



## bookwyrm (Jul 13, 2006)

I'm setting up a 54 gallon corner bowfront tank for mbuna. I've read a lot of different advice about setting up rock work, and I'm pretty confused. I'd like to have a fairly high pile/reef of rocks, so give the fish as many appealing territories as possible. This will be a display tank, and I'm also a stickler for aesthetics, so I want it to look good, too. I've read a lot of things saying that piles of rocks should be stuck together with aquarium putty or something similar, so they can't fall and crack the glass, but I've also read and heard from cichlid-keeping friends that it's important to be able to rearrange the rocks occassionally in case of aggression. So... what do you think is best? And is there any particular method to stacking rocks in a way that looks natural?

There's a landscaping supply store near me where I can possibly buy rocks. Otherwise, there's someone on ebay selling river stones for aquariums that look pretty nice. Is there a trick to stacking them in a way that both looks natural and gives plenty of space for fish? Can the rock touch the back glass of the tank at all, or is this just asking for trouble? (I'm assuming it's trouble... but I thought I'd ask.)

Alternately, I was thinking it might just be easier to buy cichlid stones. I don't mind paying extra for something if it makes my life easier. I like the fact that they're light weight, that I wouldn't have to worry about adhering them together and could feel pretty safe stacking them up high. What I'm not sure about is how natural they'd end up looking. Any opinions on cichlid stones vs. real?


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

A corner tank is a challenging shape for mbuna because there in no length to the tank in any direction. So the rockwork is very important.

You want to make lots of enclosed spaces on the substrate surrounded by your rock piles. You can touch the glass, but it is a maintenance headache because algae collects where the rock touches and it's hard to clean the substrate unless you have one "python-width" all the way around.

I would shoot for a star shape, high in the middle and tapering lower closer to the glass. In between the arms of the star are the patches of substrate that males can claim.

I imagine you will have only one male in your tank, but they still like to have choices.

I don't glue mine, but I do stack them on a bench over the course of days-weeks, rearranging again and again until I get an arrangement I like and is stable. Then I build it in the tank. Pics from all sides help to recreate the exact arrangement.


----------



## bookwyrm (Jul 13, 2006)

Thanks for the info. I like the star shaped idea, I'll definitely use that. Does anyone have any thoughts about natural rocks vs. cichlid stones?


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I like the natural look. Also since the critical structure is the patch of substrate surrounded by rocks, (not the enclosed cave) I don't find them 100% functional.


----------



## gilberbt (Aug 1, 2009)

At least for stacking purposes I would look into slate or some other flatter landscaping stone. They are much easier to build caves and make stable structures with vs cobble or round stones and with some work you can make it look somewhat natural. In general most stones at landscape companes should be very cheap, as I got mine for .14 cents/lbs. I included a photo of mine below to give you an idea how it looks. Some landscaping companies may also sell holey rocks or lace rocks too for way cheaper than the LFS if that is more of the look you where thinking of.


----------

