# Reducing nitrates between water changes?



## fancy diver (Mar 21, 2009)

Does anybody have any insight or crafty ideas on how to keep those **** nitrates.


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## Louis123 (Jun 13, 2004)

The title of your thread says it all, there is only one way of removing nitrates.. Water change !

EDIT: I find that product are pretty useless and not cost effective, you might aswell just change more water, or make more water changes...

EDIT 2 : Are you overstocked ? How often and how much water you change per week ?

EDIT 3 : No need to post in every forum by the way !!


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## kornphlake (Feb 12, 2004)

live plants eat nitrates, that's the only way I know of.


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## fancy diver (Mar 21, 2009)

Thanks for the help. Im just trying to get some diversity of opinions. What sorts of plants may do well? I've heard anubias can handle the ph of an african tank. Im just worried that it will get torn apart. any info? *** heard that there is some kind of vodka treatment people use in saltwater systems, could this be applicable in an african system?


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## kornphlake (Feb 12, 2004)

Anubias will be okay, java fern is almost impossible to kill, if you can keep your fish from digging crypts and val will grow in just about any conditions as well.

I've never heard of using vodka to reduce nitrates, I don't believe it would work, but I'd be interested in finding out more if you can find some links.


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## JALOOS (Sep 6, 2008)

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/eb/index.htm

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/e ... /index.php


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## Aquanist (Dec 29, 2007)

kornphlake said:


> Anubias will be okay, java fern is almost impossible to kill, if you can keep your fish from digging crypts and val will grow in just about any conditions as well.


Removing nitrates anubias of java fern are next to useless as they grow very slowly. For nitrate removal one needs quickly growing plans and preferably lots of them. Limnophila sessiliflora, Hygrophila polysperma and/or Ceratophyllum demersum would be my choice. Vallisneria might work out too. Best is to have plants that take nutrients traight from water instead of substrate(such as vallisneria)

However the only actually meaningful way to keep nitrates withing range is to change enough water often enough. I do minimum 50% WC every week and 2x40%(ish) for discus tank.


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## brycerb (Dec 23, 2007)

What about a denitrator? I haven't made one yet but plan to soon. They say it takes up to 6-8 weeks for the bateria to grow.


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## cevvin (May 2, 2008)

Coil Denitrator, and algae scrubbers.... check those out.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

fancy diver said:


> Does anybody have any insight or crafty ideas on how to keep those darn nitrates.


It may be as simple as more frequent filter cleanings. Let any filter go too long and it'll collect a 
large amount of detritus that will feed the cycle that generates nitrates. Don't let any mulm 
build up anywhere in the system.


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## squalls (Jan 25, 2008)

I agree with Prov356 big time - Do not let the mulm build.

I have a 180g and had it pretty well stocked. Nitrates were out of control, even with waterchanges. Nitrates from my tap were close to 20ppm. I could not get them to acceptable levels. I run a wet/dry system with the water running over the bioballs (they must be out of the water) and an algae scrubber. This set up has relieved quite a bit of stress from my maintenance routine and my wife's mouth.

Since balls are out of the water, they do not soak and allow the mulm to build. The scrubber, as long as I clean it weekly/bi-weekly, sucks up quite a bit of nitrate. I recently reviewed my wet/dry and noticed mulm build up in the refugium where I keep my crushed coral. That got gravel vacced out and the tank is in really nice shape now.

If the bio balls were in the water, they would have collected mulm similar to the crushed coral.


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## fishyfishyfishy (Dec 24, 2005)

http://www.midwestaquatic.com/

Denitirifier from Midwest Aquatic.

Keeps the Nitrate in my 450g at or near zero.


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## gre (Mar 12, 2007)

Check your new water before adding it to the tank, I was surprised to find nitrates present in my city tap water.


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## Guest (Apr 2, 2009)

I recently found one of my tanks with Nitrates at 40ppm. One of the wisemen on here, (prov356 :thumb: ), told me to be careful, nitrates are getting a little high. I did a 75% water change and the nitrates dropped down to 10ppm.

Water changes are the way to go


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## wolf13 (Feb 13, 2009)

1. water change, you can't escape it

2. algae scrubber - pretty easy to build, a bucket, a pump, piping a decent light and a screen for the algea to grow. think mini sump with growlights. scrape off a portion of the buildup every so often. http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forum ... p?t=180385

3. Live plants- two ways to do this. in the tank or in a refugium or sump. if you have the space, doing it in a sump or refugium is a really good way to go since you can use whatever you want without fish issues and you can use a much smaller amount of lighting. floating plants like hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) are ultra fast growing nutriant sinks since they can utilize atmospheric CO2 and has some degree of allelopathic effect on algea. it also favors harder water, but will be munched by africans. Anachris is another good nutriant sink, but it will actually break down calcium carbonate in water to produce CO2. Anything fast growing will do as a nutriant sink, slower growing plants will help, but without large quantities, they won't be enough. One other option that is possible is mangroves. You'll need to do a lot of research on these, and be prepared to take up the art of bonsai, but they are excellent sinks. they require large amounts of care and pruning, otherwise you will have a large tree in your fish room.

Be sure to check on whether its legal for some plants; Limnophila sessiliflora and Hygrophila polysperma are prohibited in a few states as are a number of other rapidly growing species. http://plants.usda.gov/ is a good place to find legality info using scientific names.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

This is freshwater, no need for all the fancy marine stuff that has no place here.

Water changes are the key. Slightly more surface agitation with a open top also helps out lots!
I agree with keeping up with filter maintenance also.


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## wheatbackdigger (May 11, 2008)

water changes, filter maintenance, cut back on feedings, best ways to control nitrates in that order


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