# Newbie setting up 55 gallon tank



## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Hi everyone. Completely new to this hobby. Going to start a Lake malawi tank. I just recently purchased the following on craigslist for 250$:
55 Gallon Long Fish Tank & Iron Stand
Dual sided top w/ fluorescent light
Elite Tank Heater
Fluval MSF 406 Filter (AC120V)
Fish net, sponge, algae cleaner/scraper, hose cleaners
Siphon vacuum gravel cleaner
Fluval water polishing pads
Specimen container
APT freshwater test kit
API pH UP
API proper pH 7.0
Nutrafin Aqua Plus tap water conditioner
Floating worm feeder
Air stones/bubble system
Artificial plants, ceramic log, stones & driftwood

Is there anything else that I need?

I'm going to begin working on my aquascape tomorrow and need some advice. I am going to use crushed coral for the substrate. I really like the texas holey rock a lot and maybe with a blue blackground. Everywhere i've looked though the holey rock is really expensive. Wheres the cheapest place to get it online or in stores? Also how many pounds of it would you recccomend? Thanks in advance for any advice. I will probably have a lot more questions in the future.

Ryan


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Are you planning on housing mbuna or haps and peacocks. The reason that I ask is that mbuna need more rocks than haps/peacocks do. I'm not sure exactly how many pounds you would need for mbuna, but it would be a lot, probably close to 100! Buying that much holey rock online would be quite expensive. I would look into Universal Rocks (http://www.universalrocks.com/aquarium- ... oley-rock/), they have some artificial holey rock structures made from real holey rock molds that are pretty sweet. At first there is a bit of a sticker shock, but it would still be cheaper than buying real rock online and having it delivered. I'm actually thinking about getting the holey rock #042 for my 75G malawi tank.

I would consider just getting rock from a local landscape store or even a stream or river. It SO much cheaper than buying online and with a good cleaning it works just fine. You just want to make sure there's no harmful metals in it. Pour vinegar on it and if it doesn't bubble you are ok. I use sandstone rocks I find locally and they work great, not as cool as holey rock but SO much cheaper (since they are free!).

Hope that helps get you pointed in the right direction.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Mbuna. What do you think about these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fifteen-Beautif ... 1205029409


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> Mbuna. What do you think about these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fifteen-Beautif ... 1205029409


That's a pretty nice set. You will probably need more than that tho, 15lbs isn't much.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Ok. For the vinegar test do you use red or white? Also if I buy rocks from a local landscape store how should I go about washing them? Should I also get an egg crate for the bottom of the tank? Thanks for all your help!


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> Ok. For the vinegar test do you use red or white? Also if I buy rocks from a local landscape store how should I go about washing them? Should I also get an egg crate for the bottom of the tank? Thanks for all your help!


I used white vinegar when I did the test. I'm not sure it really matters, I think it's mainly the acid reacting with the metals.

I clean all my rocks in a weak bleach solution. Last time I did it I used one cup in a 55G bucket and let them sit overnight. I think rinsed them thoroughly and let them sit overnight in clean water with double dose of Seachem Prime since it renders chlorine and chloramine benign. I then rinsed them thoroughly again making sure I could smell no bleach on them.

I don't use egg crate in my tanks. Some say you need, but many don't. An aquarium bottom is designed to handle a lot of weight as long as its even distributed. Just make sure you don't have any rocks sitting on a small point and you should be fine. I have about 70lbs of rock in my tank with no issues.


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## Bowfront (Jun 3, 2013)

I bought 110 pounds of really colorful limestone rock in large chunks from a local landscaping shop for $24
.


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

I agree... go to a landscape yard and pick out some nice rocks. I have 200lbs in my 55 gallon mbuna tank, cost me $35. There's a picture in "My Tanks".


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Thanks. So how many pounds of rock should I actually buy? Also I read that your supposed to put the rocks in before the substrate. Is this true? I feel like there wouldn't be a lot of room for the substrate to go since there's going to be so many rocks. How difficult is it to vacuum the substrate with all the rocks?


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

You definitely want to put the rocks in before the substrate. Mbuna are diggers, if there is sand under the rocks they can dig it out causing your pile to tumble.

The actual weight of the rocks will depend on the type of rock you choose. Mine are pretty dense, that's why I ended up with 200lbs. I would stay away from lava rock or other sharp rocks since mbuna are VERY active, you don't want them getting cut up - also detritus gets trapped in the pores of those kind of rocks.

You are right, you will need less substrate. Try to arrange the rocks with "coves" or "indentations" at the substrate as these are the territories the males like to claim. I don't find it difficult to vacuum. What I do is siphon out about 1/2 the water I'm changing (picking up any debris that is in the open), then get a pitcher and start scooping water and pouring it down on the rocks (with some force) to flush out the rest of the debris. When most of it is out in the open, I stop and siphon out the rest of the water. I feel I am able to get most all of it out, and my nitrates are staying low.

Another thing to keep in mind is water flow. I like quite a bit of flow in my mbuna tank to keep the detritus moving until it is sucked into the filters. I have two canister filters (fluval 406 and 305) and I added a powerhead for more flow. My fish don't seem to mind the flow at all, they have no trouble swimming/maintaining position - it gives them something to do rather than beat each other up!


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

shelbynjakesdad said:


> You definitely want to put the rocks in before the substrate. Mbuna are diggers, if there is sand under the rocks they can dig it out causing your pile to tumble.
> 
> The actual weight of the rocks will depend on the type of rock you choose. Mine are pretty dense, that's why I ended up with 200lbs. I would stay away from lava rock or other sharp rocks since mbuna are VERY active, you don't want them getting cut up - also detritus gets trapped in the pores of those kind of rocks.
> 
> ...


Totally agree with all of this!

Before you got to the landscape store look at your tank and determine how much rock you think you will need to fill it up as much as you would like. I'd suggest at least half-way to the top covering most of the bottom, 2/3 would be better. However, if you chose very dense rock 2/3 might be too much. I had my 75G 2/3 full of sandstone before I got the peacocks and it was fine, but sandstone is fairly light compared to something like granite.

As shelbyandjakesdad said, you will want to make sure you have plenty of water flow in your tank. This will help keep debris from collecting in certain areas. I have a 550GPH canister and a 1250GPH circulation pump in my tank and it works quite well. Depending on your filter's flow rate you will probably want something around 800-1000GPH for circulation.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Thank you everyone for all your great advice. I just picked up some rocks from my local lanscape store for 25$. also i have the fluval 406..will that provide enough water flow or will i need a powerhead or something else?
How do i attach a picture to the post? want to show a picture of the rocks to see if that will be enough


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

I ran just a Fluval 406 on my 55 for a while and I felt like it was not nearly enough... so I added a Fluval 305. The combo did a pretty good job, but I still had some dead spots were debris was collecting, so I added a powerhead. I have them positioned so everything is "swept" toward my filter intakes without causing too much flow for the fish. I run the powerhead on my light timer so it shuts off and the flow reduces at night when they sleep. The more rocks you put in, the more the flow will be blocked and the more dead spots you will have. Every tank is different, it will take some tinkering to get right.

For pictures, you need to first upload to an image hosting site (like photobucket, mediafire, etc), then link to your pic (there is an Img button in the post editor).


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

ok..i don't have the money right now to get another filter so hopefully the fluval 406 will be good enough for now. but here is the picture of the rocks i got..they will be stacked higher than they are right now so hopefully it will be enough.


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

I like the rocks, they look similar to mine and should stack well. Post a pic after you get it set up! :thumb:


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

thanks i definitely will...i will continue to have a ton of questions just because i don't want to mess anything up so thank you everyone who has been helping..when i set up my fluval 406 filter should i put the intake and outake hoses on opposite sides of the tank or together on the same side? also can anyone tell me what the following picture is of. it came with everything on craigslist.. i think it is an air bubble system but i have no idea how to set it up or if i even need it.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Could be components to a CO2 system. Did the previous owner have plants?

I have my intake and outtakes on opposite ends of my tank, creates better flow that way and greater likelyhood of actually collecting more dirty water.


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

When I had just the 406 with the stock output nozzle on my 55, I tried all kinds of setups. Believe it or not, what worked best for me was putting them on the same side of the tank with the nozzle blowing water across the tank length-wise. It created a "loop" where water flowed across the top, hit the far wall, and flowed back across the bottom to the intake. You will have to experiment until you find the best setup.

I eventually built a DIY spraybar (search this site - you'll see lots of info) and that helped a little with the flow. Right now, both my 406 and 305's are on spraybars... so water flows back to front across the top, down the front glass, and back across the bottom - this helps push stuff to the back of the tank where my intakes are.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

I plan on using Eco Complete African Cichlid Substrate in my tanks. Which kind is the best for an african ciclid tank or is it just personal preference? They have gravel, Ivory Coast, sand and white sand, and zack black. also how many bags of it do I need for my 55 gallon tank? They come in 20 pound bags. How many inches deep should the substrate be in the tank? Thanks everyone


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> I plan on using Eco Complete African Cichlid Substrate in my tanks. Which kind is the best for an african ciclid tank or is it just personal preference? They have gravel, Ivory Coast, sand and white sand, and zack black. also how many bags of it do I need for my 55 gallon tank? They come in 20 pound bags. How many inches deep should the substrate be in the tank? Thanks everyone


A lot of that is simply preference. What color do you like? How deep do you want the sand? I prefer white sand in my cichlids tanks, but that's because we have darker brownish rocks around here and it looks best. Also, I have an average sand depth of about 1" because its easier to clean that way and keep free of harmful bacteria. 40 pounds will probably be enough once you get the rocks in. Put the rocks directly on the tank glass and then pour the sand around them for best results.

Why are you getting eco complete? You really don't need it unless you plant to have plants and they really don't work with africans. The only plants I would suggest are anubias and java fern and they are water column feeders anyway and don't need special soil. Mbuna will pretty much eat anything else and peacocks will just uproot it. I would use pool filter sand if you want white/light tan and black diamond blasting sand if you want black. WAY cheaper than eco complete. I have PFS in my 75G tank and it works great.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

The guy at my lfs said it was the best for a cichlid tank or at least that's what he prefers. I guess it also boosts the ph which is something I need.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> The guy at my lfs said it was the best for a cichlid tank or at least that's what he prefers. I guess it also boosts the ph which is something I need.


PFS boosts your PH too, as does using sandstone. Sounds like is trying to make a sale to me.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Okay I may just go with the pfs then to save 40$. Thanks!


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> Okay I may just go with the pfs then to save 40$. Thanks!


No problem!

Do you know you're tap water ph?


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

My lfs tested it last week and I believe it was 7.3 or 7.4 but not positive. I am going to test it tomorrow to confirm.


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## Austinite (Jul 27, 2013)

Definately put rocks on the bottom first before substrate, it makes the rock stacks more stable. Mbuna will sift and move sand at the rock bases, so rocks could shift if you didn't place them on the glass. My fish have created their own caves at the bottom by moving sand.

I just set up my tank a few months ago and I realized that I made a mistake by placing rocks too close to all the glass edges. I couldn't reach the glass sides to clean off algae, and I couldn't reach the bottom sand to siphon up poo. So I spent an afternoon rearranging all the rocks (which I actually think is fun!)....and I left room along all the edges for cleaning purposes. So much better. I also used 2 power heads on opposite ends of the tank for water movement, and when it comes time for cleaning, I just remove the powehead from the base and use that to blow out debris from under rocks and in caves.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Thanks great advice. Do any of you recommend the python for water changes


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Also my tap water ph is 7.4


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## NJmomie (Jan 17, 2013)

sparty13 said:


> Thanks great advice. Do any of you recommend the python for water changes


If you do a search, there is a thread that discusses the pros and cons of the various types of water changing systems. I think for tanks larger than 30 gallon, it is a MUST have.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Ok. So since my tap water has a ph of 7.4 can I still use pfs or should I go for a substrate that raises the ph


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> Ok. So since my tap water has a ph of 7.4 can I still use pfs or should I go for a substrate that raises the ph


7.4 is close to the preferred ph. As long as your water isn't in the acidic range you should be fine. I've even heard mbunas surviving in a ph around 5. As long as you keep up with water changes to keep ammonia and nitrites down you will be fine. PFS will work fine for you and will even bring your ph up a couple of points.

I have the Aqueon water changing system and I like it. I have had to replace a few pieces that broke, but that was more due to my ignorance of exactly how to use the system. I would not want to have a tank 55G or larger without some sort of water changing system.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

thanks! do you think these are enough rocks? when i try and stack them any higher they get wobbly.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> thanks! do you think these are enough rocks? when i try and stack them any higher they get wobbly.


That should work. Just make sure ot have to have at least one cave or outcropping per fish and you should be fine.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Test a sample of tap water after it sits for 24 hours. More importantly, buy a kit or have your tap tested for gH and kH. The higher your kH, the more stable your pH will be. Tinkering with your water is not needed when you have a stable pH and it's high enough. 7.4 is suitable.

The python and similar products is largely dependant on your water pressure. I have a well, and it doesn't work so well. If you're on city water it work very well.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

I have the API master test kit but I don't see any gH and kH tests. But my tap water still has a ph of 7.4 after sitting out for 24 hours. I ordered the python as well since my water pressure is pretty good


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

sparty13 said:


> I have the API master test kit but I don't see any gH and kH tests. But my tap water still has a ph of 7.4 after sitting out for 24 hours. I ordered the python as well since my water pressure is pretty good


That's a pretty good ph for africans. After adding pfs and maybe some sandstone rocks you should be just fine.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Thank you everyone so much for all your help. Prob won't be long till I have more questions


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

Be sure to research / ask more questions when you are deciding on a stock list... as you probably know, mbuna are aggressive, territorial fish. It's not a good idea to just pick out the ones you like and toss them in. These fish have specific behavior and needs if you want a "peaceful" tank. In a 55, you will want to stick to the smaller and less aggressive mbuna.


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Yeah I am definitely going to do a lot of research before I select the fish. Just getting all the equipment and everything set up right now. Would you guys recommend just regular glass thermometer or digital? And what brands are good? Thanks!


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

hii..do you think the placement of the filter hoses and heater are good or should I put them in a different spot?

thanks


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## pancakeloach (Feb 4, 2008)

I put my filter intake and output in the same corner - looks like the output is directed along the back wall there, so I would simply slide the intake over behind it. Heater can stay in the vicinity too, or go wherever it's least visible when you 'scape the tank.

Please tell me you're planning a 3D in-tank background. Putting a background on a 55 after it's full of water and up against a wall is extremely obnoxious, as my arms will tell you. Painting a background on is so much easier when the tank is empty!


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## sparty13 (Nov 15, 2013)

Thanks. Don't worry it's not filled with water yet so I can still move it to put a background on . I've read some stuff online and some people say it's better to put the intake and outake tubes on opposite sides for better flow.
Any truth to that?


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## pancakeloach (Feb 4, 2008)

Depends on what you mean by "better flow," I think - are you looking for a lot of turbulence, or a more laminar type of flow. If you want to read a long discussion about it, try here - that's where I came up with the idea of putting them together. It's worked quite well for me, though of course with all the rocks there are places where waste will settle on the lee side. One advantage of putting output and intake together is that I could shorten the hose lengths I needed, and since I'm using a cheap Rena XP3 I figured I needed to give the motor all the help it could get.  Now, if I were using a spraybar instead of a nozzle output, I probably _would_ suggest putting the intake on the opposite end of the tank, to help "pull" water from the spraybar across to the other end of the tank.

Here's a picture, because I obviously have too much time on my hands. The point of having them both in the same corner is to encourage the circular flow as much as possible. And this way the moving water has circled all the way around the tank before it gets pulled back into the canister. But I've also run them in opposite corners as well, and I don't know that I could say definitively that one way "worked" better than the other, since I didn't run any pseudo-scientific tests on speed of particulate matter filtering before and after.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

You should get another filter simply as a backup. A simple HOB will do. Something like an AC70.


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