# Hinge for glass top options?



## ivanmike (Jun 15, 2003)

Having gotten some tanks at the petco sale I want to make some glass tops for them rather than buy the overpriced ones. As I understand it, a glass shop will cut you one, but of course I want a hinge in it so i can lift up the front to feed fish and what not. Perusing Thatfishplace's website i noticed that they sell just the hinges, but they are out of stock at the moment. any other gizmos that would work as a hinge?

FWIW, I'm probably just going to use egg crate for the back area where you throw on filters and what have you, with finer mesh over it if I happen to be keeping smaller fish in the tank.

I have of course used egg crate as a top for many a tank, (you can feed right through it!) but you always end up with evaporation issues and the possibility of fish loss with tiny fish (of which I don't keep many save for dither tetras for dwarfs).


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I have the same reaction when I look at buying glass tops. But then when I look at the plastic hinges, I get the same feeling. Too High for my tanks where nobody see the hinge but me. For a workable (but ugly?) hinge, you can use duct tape for the folding portion. Embedded in silicone, it is realllly cheap and lasts quite a long time. Flexible nylon strapping, like aluminum lawn chairs, will last longer but you may get some pretty garish colors! Paint it black maybe?


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## lucid_eye (Apr 12, 2009)

My LFS sells the hinges in ten foot strips that you cut to size, they also sell the plastic strips that go along the back of the glass the same way


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## Aura (Oct 29, 2005)

When my hinges wear out, I run a line of aquarium silicone along the edge where the two pieces of glass meet. I like the look much better.


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## sickwithcichlids (Jun 10, 2011)

+1 It looks really good to use silicone, Just tape off about a half inch on each side of the edges you want to silicone w/ blue painters tape and separate the glass 1/8 inch and run a even bead down the exposed edges and smooth with your fingers> Make sure you remove the tape in about an hour(once the silicone is set up some what). You will have professional looking results if done right.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

I have had great results with silicone hinges too. I find that they work much better it they are wider. I lay the two pieces on a flat surface about 3/8" apart. Put one strip of painters tape to cover the gap and about three pieces cross wise to stabilize everything. Then flip the thing over and mask off the edges of the glass. fill the gap with silicone and smooth out with a wet finger so that it's thinner in the middle. Let dry for at least 6 hours before moving anything and removing the tap and then 24 hours before flexing the hinge.

Use GE silicone 1 for windows and doors.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Very good explanation, Pete. I have a lid that I will try today. Sounds much better than what I have used.


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## ivanmike (Jun 15, 2003)

I'm not 100% clear on the process and finished product pete - I'm assuming the part where the silicone goes is the side of the glass after you've flipped it over and in the gap eh?

As far as masking off the edges of the glass after you've flipped it, do you mean to only allow silicone in the gap? Or are you allowing some silicone to be on that edge of the glass?

As far as making it thinner in the middle, I'm assuming you mean the actual bead of silicone now in the gap - so there is a middle part of this that is shorter/thinner and this is where the bending will take place eh?

Which way will the top hinge flex? or will it flex both ways?

Sorry for the non-craftsman questions - I'm not afraid of DIY, but i like to get it right. And thanks for the GE # warning - i know which kind is safe for aquariums (didn't they used to say it right on the tube years ago?)


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Some still may say aquarium safe but I think as a way to avoid liability, many now have stopped saying it is safe. Too many attornies working to avoid any actions they might have to defend. The product may still be safe but they don't want to say it out loud.


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## Aura (Oct 29, 2005)

I did mine similar to the process shown in this video, but I used the painter's tape to keep the edges neat. It only flexes in one direction.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

Ivanmike: basically yes to all your questions. the silicone goes in the gap. the masking tape is held back about 1/16" from the glass edge and just keeps things from getting messy. the hinge will flex both ways. The silicone hinge ends up being flat on one side and dished on the other where your finger runs along it.

Aura: I have tried hinges like the one in the video, but found them to be quite stiff, so I switched to the wide ones.

do not confuse GE silicone 1 for windows and doors with the GE silicone 1 for bathrooms and kitchens. The second contains toxic mildewcides.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Question for you guys who use painter's tape to mask off. What exact type? I'm finding the blue tape that I use for painting is sticking to the caulk so much that it gives trouble. It is the flat tape which holds the caulk in the groove, not the edge tape. If I just try to peel the tape, even flat like one would to avoid peeling paint, it still takes some of the caulk out. To solve this, I wound up cutting the caulk as I very slowly removed the tape. Took forever and looks like it was chewed off. In the future, I would like to avoid this. Any suggestions? Wrong tape? waited too long? Not long enough? I gave it about 36 hours.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

i rip off the tape beside the silicone immediately and the tape backing the silicone anywhere from 6 to 24 hours later. not sure if the brand makes a difference, I use the white stuff and I've never had it stick to the silicone.

I've never really given it much thought, perhaps you did wait too long. Just don't try flexing the hinge before the full cure time.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

By white, do you mean the kind of tan or natural colored tape or is there a true white that I have not noticed. I used clear GE I silicone for my hinge. I now have the lid back on and it seems to work fine other than having a couple holes where I pulled the silicone out.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

yes, the off white/tan stuff.


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## ivanmike (Jun 15, 2003)

Funny extra - at that point what is a good replacement for the gizmo you lift the lid with? -I suppose you could silicone on a bobblehead doll to do that. FWIW, I know they sell replacement lid lifts, so I'm wondering what thickness glass to go with (IIRC, they use two thicknesses for aquarium hood glass).


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Thanks, Pistolpete. That sounds like what I called "regular" masking tape. The blue I used is supposed to have less chance of pulling existing paint off when you remove it but that may make it work less well for this use. Now the big question is whether I remember what I've learned???? :roll:


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

I have siliconed pebbles on for handles in the past, but about half of them don't stick for some reason, so now I use small wood blocks.

Another thought on the masking tape issue: I usually peel it off so that I am pulling parallel to the glass, not straight up. That means peel off the end and then pull straight back so that the non sticky side of the tape is touching the non sticky side as you peel. Seems to come off the best that way.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Yes, on the peeling tape back sharply. I tried all angles. The peeling it real sharp is a way to avoid taking existing fresh paint off when the tape is used for a second color. If you pull straight up, it is more likely to pull p[aint off than if you go the way you suggest. Must be the type tape I used. Thanks for the solution, now I have fo figure what I did wrong. Works well, just not as pretty with the chewed off look.

A really down and dirty handle can be made real quick with duct tape. Stick it to the bottom side of the glass, extend enough to make the handle and stick it to the top of the glass. Quick and easy but looks are not a big plus.


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