# New DIY background help



## natpodu77 (Jul 18, 2014)

Okay, I have read a lot of different way s that people have made backgrounds from Styrofoam and concrete or Drylok and am going to try it on my already established 55 gallon tank. I have had it since October 13-a craigslist find. 
I wanted to run my ideas by a group of experienced DIY-ers and reading on the number of you who have done this I didn't think there was a better forum.

I have read that it is possible to place a background that is tight fitting in an already established tank and use the frame to attempt to keep it in place, as well as rocks and substrate at the bottom. However in addition to that I have purchased a set of 8 plastic coated aquarium safe magnets that I was going to use on the background as well. I was going to recess them on the back and attach them with silicone.
Having an established tank, I cannot use silicone, and I really would like the option of removal in the future. I know there is pond silicone that can be applied in the water, but again I am not looking for a permanent fixture.

What I was thinking of doing was using 1" extruded polystyrene foam, cutting it to fit and then attaching rocks to it that I will cut out of the same polystyrene to make ledges and small depressions/pots to hold some Anubias and possibly stem plants on the top to keep them "floating" in place. I would glue all this with silicone, although I did read you can use hot glue gun, but it would melt the foam too much I think (based on prior crafting experience). I would let it cure for a few days or week and then cover it with a couple coats of tinted Drylok. I was thinking of outlining the whole frame with a bead or thin layer of silicone just so that it would "grip" the sides of the tank as well as the adjacent piece better and keep itself in place better. I also wanted to "hide" some of my intakes as I have 2 Filstar canister filters for the tank, but that will be a bit of trial and error on my part in planning it.

I am unsure if I should make it in 2 or 3 pieces, also since I am not attaching it with silicon, can I paint the back of it as well with the Drylok? I think this will help with the longevity of the background if it didn't have any edges that were not sealed-though the foam itself is waterproof. :-?

I also wanted to attach it to a 4" or 5" "base" that would just be another 1" piece of foam, painted with Drylok and silicone to the bottom of the background&#8230;a "foot" that I can cover with my substrate as added protection from it floating or shifting. Do you think this would help, or it is overkill?

Thank you for your help and feedback! :thumb:


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## Nathan Shaw (Jun 20, 2014)

Hi natpodu77, firstly best of luck with your background. I am now on my second attempt at building one into an already established tank. You could have a look at how I am doing on my posts.

My first attempt went completely wrong. I massively underestimated the buoyancy of the polystyrene foam and then put that much concrete in to weigh it down it was unmanageable and was starting to fall apart.

My current background is using a framework of square guttering downpipe which I have built to fit my tank, this covers up my heater, internal filter and my external in/outlet pipework. I am currently putting a layer of expanding foam onto the framework, allowing it to cure and then cutting it to shape. I am then going to use tinted cement to make the foam look more like rocks. 
I hope my experiences will help your project and again best of luck :thumb:


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## natpodu77 (Jul 18, 2014)

Nathan, 
I did see your second attempt, but did not know what happened with your first.

So do you think that my attempt to attach it to the tank with magnets and making a base/foot that is about 4"-5" to be covered with my substrate (Eco-complete-fine black) would be enough to counter the buoyancy? If not, I do have some heavier rocks I can use on the edge, or maybe I will have to use the pond silicone and apply it to the base to anchor it?

I read a couple DIY background builds on some other freshwater sites where they were able to wedge them in and use the lip of the tank to keep them in place.

I did not read what happened to your first build, but I did see your second with the down pipe. I didn't wan't to take so much space as my tank is only 13" wide. Good luck on your build as well, it looks like it is coming along very well


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## Nathan Shaw (Jun 20, 2014)

The link for the first background is here. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=319193

I think the amount of polystyrene I used was the major problem. The problem is that the weight of polystyrene is virtually nil and the amount of space it was taking up was never going to work. It was like when in a swimming pool you put one of the floats between your legs, no matter what happens the polystyrene was making its way back to the surface. Looking at the figures polystyrene is a third of the density of water which without jumping into any ridiculous mathematical calculations means that to get the background to float I would have to add a [email protected]*t load of concrete to keep it under water.

Holding the background in with magnets could work,depending upon the strength of the magnets, and the amount of magnets used. I have seen really strong magnets in the workplace which could do it, but I doubt using normal "algae cleaners" would cut it.

In all the tutorials I watched before attempting my background they made it in an empty tank and affixed the background to the tank using silicone obviously this is a non starter in an already established tank.

With my frame, although the downpipe might sound bulky it is only 65mm wide, it is just slightly deeper than the outlet pipes it doesn't cover a massive footprint. You could do like the guy ion this post , rgpatton, he has used eggcrate as a frame work.


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## Nathan Shaw (Jun 20, 2014)

natpodu77, I have had a thought, I don't remember if it was on this thread or another one but I seem to remember you saying you didn't think you could use silicone to stick slate to the base of your background. I would assume if you use an aquarium safe silicone and ensure it is fully cured before putting it back in the tank there shouldn't be any trouble


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