# DIY stand for 150



## non_compliance (Dec 4, 2008)

I"m trying to figure out what I"m going to need to build a cheap/sturdy stand for my 8' long 150 gal. acrylic tank.

I have a schematic, and would like any criticism or advice. I am most concerned with placement of the middle/center braces, and the height of the tank. 1,200+ lbs 3' in the air makes me a bit queezy, but at the same time, I don't want this to be a low rider.

This is going to go in my basement. Just needs to function! At a later date, I may 'finish' it so that it can come out of hiding.

THANKS!!!!


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

We all might do it different, but that is just human, right? My changes are as follows. The 4X4 is more prone to warping than two 2X4 back to back. The grain in a 4" is all the same way where in using two 2" the grain of one will be pulling different than the other. The result is less likely to warp. This also gives you a chance to move one of the 2X4 out so that it is truly under the edge of the top making the load supported directly on the end of the upright rather than on the fastener holding it. Run the other 2X4 upto overlap the top 2X4's. Fastened to them, it will keep the top from "racking" (folding sideways). This will do away with needing the crossbrace 2X4's. 
When building, a piece of 1/2 inch plywood is often used at teh corners to prevent racking. For extra, I would favor a 1/2 inch panel on the pack side over 2X4 bracing. Much easier to cut precisely also. You will find the 2X4 bracing cuts any option for doors and storage under the tank. No more suport needed at the other locations. The tank will not bend. The top 2X4 will not bend when supported in the middle. The only reason to change that part would be maybe going to two supports rather than one if one wanted to have more smaller doors rather than two large ones. The 4" corners are overkill if the load is truly on the ends of the support but I like the overkill. I have kids that sometimes rush in to see the fish. I do not want even a quiver when it gets hit with a ten year old. :lol:


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## non_compliance (Dec 4, 2008)

Excellent... I like the 2x4s to replace the 4x4... I was trying to think of a way to put the supports more UNDER the load.

I was also considering the plywood liek you said, but sounds like 1/2" is the way to go.

Anyone consider the 18" width standing 36" high to be an issue? Not too topheavy?


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## redblufffishguy (Jul 16, 2009)

I posted about this once before....

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... highlight= (I think that is the link)

there is absolutely no need for 2 x 4's of 4 x 4's use standard 3/4" lumber and 3/4" plywood to build the stand.

I have been building stands for a wholsaler for 20 plus years. I have alwasy used the above mentioned lumber, and have never had a problem.









that is my 80 gallon tank. the stand is built from 3/4" english walnut. no plywood was used. it have been in my living room for 8 years and is as sturdy as the day I built it.

again, 2 x 4 construstion is overkill. it is simply not necessary.

If you are still unsure, go to the All-Glass web site and look at their statnd, they are ALL built from 3/4" lumber, in fact some of them only contact the floor at the corners.

Whatever you decide to do, post some photos!!!


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## non_compliance (Dec 4, 2008)

I know what you mean Red, and I have also read that the 3/4" stuff is plenty sturdy... my only problem is cost.  I was figuring I could build the skeleton out of 2x4, then make it look pretty at a later date if I wanted.

Too bad you're in cali, or I would just have YOU build my stand. 

Does the tank actually sit on top of the edge of the plywood?


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## redblufffishguy (Jul 16, 2009)

That stand has no plywood it is all hard wood, and no, the top trim is wrapped around the stand to hide the plastic trim on the tank.

if you were to biuld the stand from pine, it would not cost much more than 2 x 4's


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## Geddonight (Aug 7, 2009)

*non_compliance*

A couple things I'd think would be valuable:

1) I believe common convention is to give full support to the bottom of an *acrylic* tank. Be sure to use plywood (and I'd consider adding a layer of styrofoam just to evenly distribute the load) under the whole bottom of the aquarium.

2) Pine is a softer material, so it's easier to work with, but has some drawbacks. in that department (easy to overtorque a screw right through a 3/4" board  ). Work with whatever material you are most comfortable.

3) If you're set on 2x4's, that's fine. I just recommend going ahead now and using plywood as your skin (or whatever you want--could be 3/4" board or what-have-you) so that way you have lateral stabilization and won't worry about 2x4s bowing out.

Regarding the height, I'm not terribly worried about 36" stand, though how tall are you? How tall is the tank? How easy will it be to get into the tank to manipulate? Are you going to need a step ladder to get in?

If you're worried about tipping, maybe you could build in a wider rim at the base, just to add a little extra footprint. Of course, if you're worried about tipping, you've got to have one heck of a nightmarish problem on your hands, because it should be relatively leveled.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

When it comes to using 2X4 or other size wood, it becomes a matter of practical more than need. I see no reason to not use 2X4 if it works and is cheaper. Most of the time I'm able to find a somewhat reasonable priced 2X4 tha looks okay and will do the job. I'm often not able to find 1X that is strong staight and true without getting robbed. :x Fastening 2X is fairly straightforward. One has to use some dicretion when he places a fastener near the end of 1X to avoid spliting if it isn't the best quality wood. Back to the pricing angle. I buy what works well for me without regard for the "overkill" complaint. If others find good 1X that works for them they may have better supplies or different standards. What works , is what we all need to use.


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## non_compliance (Dec 4, 2008)

Regardless of what I use, I'll probably fasten it with carriage bolts, washers, and nuts.. i will also most likely counter sink everything and obviously drill all the holes.

Thanks a ton for all the help. There's a lot of good tips in here. Now to get to work. I'll be sure to post some pics.


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## redblufffishguy (Jul 16, 2009)

If the carriage bolts make you feel secure, then by all means use them. The stand in the photo I posted has no mechanical fasteners at all (with the exception of brad nails to secure the inlaid boards)

The whole stand is held together with wood glue.

Having said that, I have changed my design just a bit to include Kreg Pocket screws. It allows me to build the stand without the need for clamping. The screws take care of that!

Don't get me wrong, "overkill" was not a complaint, I was simply trying to let others know that large dimension lumber is just not necessary. It seems that most on this site are under the impression that they need to build stands that are strong enough to hold a car.


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## Geddonight (Aug 7, 2009)

*redblufffishguy*

Explain these Kreg Pocket Screws? (or better yet, pictures?)

My girlfriend & I have a 150 we want to build/have built a really nice stand for, and I'm trying to gather as much info as possible.

When it comes to aquariums, "overkill" can be a good thing--nobody wants 55+ gallons flowing into their living room!

Of course, there is a wonderful point in the Venn diagram where form, function, and cost all meet to make a nice stand where we can enjoy fishies :fish:


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## redblufffishguy (Jul 16, 2009)

Kreg is a brand of "pocket hole screws" here is their web address:

http://www.kregtool.com/index.php

you have to buy the jig, but for production work the time saved outweighs the cost but at least 10X.


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## Geddonight (Aug 7, 2009)

Ah, good to know if I ever get into the carpentry business


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