# Filter and Heater Questions



## jellis (Aug 7, 2013)

I have a question for anyone who knows.....I have a well established 55 gallon tank with 10 assorted cichlids. If I am running a Marineland C-220 canister filter (up to 55 gallon) , would a Penguin Bio Wheel 150 be sufficient to run as an additional for overfiltration or would I need something bigger? I think the Penguin, if used by itself is only for maybe a 20 or 30 gallon tank. (The Aqueon HOB in the picture isn't working at the moment...waiting on parts, but I have the extra Penguin that doesn't have a home)

Also, I have an Aqueon 300w heater that has to be set on 72degF in order to heat the tank to an average of 81 to 82degF......what am I doing wrong? or is my heater faulty?


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## earled (Jan 3, 2013)

I wouldn't worry about the heater unless it won't hold a steady temp. It's calibration is probably off. If it holds a steady 80-82 your fine. I don't do African Cichlids but you might
want to lower you temp to 76-78.

I would go with the biggest filter you can afford. Its never a bad idea to have a back up that can handle the tanks by itself in case of primary filter failure(that sounds cool)
The AC110 is a beast of a HOB filter and can easily work with your tank. It is nearly impossible to have too much filtration. As long as the fish are not being pushed around
by the currents your good.


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## jellis (Aug 7, 2013)

Thanks Earled, as far as the temperature, I am actually trying to lower it a bit, but it seems to make little difference no matter how low I set the t-stat.

Great point about the filter.....I'll look into it.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Jellis, you can also try unplugging the heater and monitor the tank temperature for the next 24 hours. Another possible source of heat could be the powerhead or the tank lights.


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## jellis (Aug 7, 2013)

Deeda said:


> Jellis, you can also try unplugging the heater and monitor the tank temperature for the next 24 hours. Another possible source of heat could be the powerhead or the tank lights.


Thanks Deeda, the powerhead just went in last weekend and the lights are only on for a few hours a day (in the evenings when I get home) I see the heater light come on, so I know that it is at least trying to regulate the temperature.

I may just follow your suggestion and unplug the unit, then monitor the temp for a few hours.


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## earled (Jan 3, 2013)

jellis said:


> Thanks Earled, as far as the temperature, I am actually trying to lower it a bit, but it seems to make little difference no matter how low I set the t-stat.


I run into the same problem during the summer months. Tank likes to stay over 82. I usually freeze a gallon milk jug full of water and float it in the tank. Kinda of a PIA but
it helps some.


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## smitty814 (Sep 27, 2012)

I would toss the heater if it is'nt working correctly which it seems not to be.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

smitty814 said:


> I would toss the heater if it is'nt working correctly which it seems not to be.


I would do the same. If the temp is that far above the set temp and the heater is still going on somethings wrong. How warm is your room?

You could always run the 150 for now and get a larger heater when you can. No harm in running a filter for a little whiel and replacing it. Just be sure to keep the media and put it in the new filter.


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## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

clhinds78 said:


> smitty814 said:
> 
> 
> > I would toss the heater if it is'nt working correctly which it seems not to be.
> ...


Nah, as long as the tank temp is constant, it does not matter what the temp on the heater says, go with the tank temp. Most of my older Ebo's don't even have a temp calibration on the heater, just a dial. Now if you can't get the tank to go lower by lowering the dial on the heater, then yes at that point replace it.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

Most of my heaters, some more than 30 years (HOBs) old don't have temp settings. You adjust the dial until you get the right temp. I wouldn't be concerned about the temp not matching the dial as long as the heater was working. I would be leery of using a 300W heater in a 55. If it fails in the on position, you risk boiled fish.
As to filtration, if your ammonia and nitrite numbers are 0, you have enough filtration. All hard surfaces in the tank can support nitrifying bacteria, and becomes part of the total filtration. Many advocate extra filtration, for redudancy, which isn't a bad idea, but few actually know the limits of their filtration. I hate the term overfiltration, as it can be misleading. Once your ammonia and nitrite numbers are at zero, adding more filtration will not lower it.


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## smitty814 (Sep 27, 2012)

jellis said:


> Also, I have an Aqueon 300w heater that has to be set on 72degF in order to heat the tank to an average of 81 to 82degF......what am I doing wrong? or is my heater faulty?


Yes...your heater is faulty. No doubt about it. :thumb:


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

Being incorrectly calibrated doesn't make a heater faulty. Some heaters can be recalibrated, like the Jaggers for example. I picked up a used one from a club member, that was out 10 degrees. It wasn't faulty. It now keeps the temp around the setting mark since I recalibrated it.


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## smitty814 (Sep 27, 2012)

BillD said:


> Being incorrectly calibrated doesn't make a heater faulty. Some heaters can be recalibrated, like the Jaggers for example. I picked up a used one from a club member, that was out 10 degrees. It wasn't faulty. It now keeps the temp around the setting mark since I recalibrated it.


So I guess you're saying that because you could fix or "recalibrate" a used heater....the OP's heater is'nt faulty? Maybe you could say it is'nt broken because it still heats the water. opcorn:


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Jellis, are you still experiencing higher than desired temperatures in your tank since unplugging the heater?


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## earled (Jan 3, 2013)

smitty814 said:


> BillD said:
> 
> 
> > Being incorrectly calibrated doesn't make a heater faulty. Some heaters can be recalibrated, like the Jaggers for example. I picked up a used one from a club member, that was out 10 degrees. It wasn't faulty. It now keeps the temp around the setting mark since I recalibrated it.
> ...


Nope he is not saying that. If the heater holds a steady temp it is working fine. If he can't get it to lower temps, is the heater still on or is the room temp over 80? My tank has a problem with temps in the summer months.

During the cooler months tank is a steady 77. Summer months tanks averages 80-82. Hence the ice in the tank to help cool it.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

smitty814 said:


> BillD said:
> 
> 
> > Being incorrectly calibrated doesn't make a heater faulty. Some heaters can be recalibrated, like the Jaggers for example. I picked up a used one from a club member, that was out 10 degrees. It wasn't faulty. It now keeps the temp around the setting mark since I recalibrated it.
> ...


wow, with that mentality my test lab would be out of business very quickly. We recalibrate our sensors and equipment yearly. I'm not saying that there is definitely not a problem with his heater but if it holds the temperature steady and goes up when you turn the dial up and down when he turns it down assuming all other things such as equipment in the tank, lights, and ambient room conditions will allow it, then the unit would not be considered faulty unless it could not be brought back to within a standard amount of tolerance with its calibration adjustment.


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## earled (Jan 3, 2013)

k7gixxerguy said:


> smitty814 said:
> 
> 
> > BillD said:
> ...


 :thumb:


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

Thank you, earled, that is exactly what I was saying. If a heater maintains a temperature, whether it matches what is on the dial or not, it is functioning correctly. Regardless of brand, a temp should be verified by thermometer, not just the setting on the heater, for those that have visible settings.


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