# my attempt at 120 gallon plywood tank



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Ok, I'm new to this site and after reading and learning on this site, *** decided to start my new plywood tank project. The progress *** made so far has taken me several weeks.Here are some pics of the tank and stand that *** made. The tank is 24'x24'x48". I'll keep posting pictures and comments as I progress.


----------



## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

VERY nice :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Ok, it got too cold to continue the epoxy, so I cut and dry fit the plumping for my rubbermaid wet/dry. This is my first attempt at this too, lemme know if ya see any room for improvement. I need to put a valve on the return side I think, in case the pump is too strong for the overflow.


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

I still have to finish the stand and find some glass for the top. Thinking of making a 3d background, concrete over styro. Since im keeping African cichlids, is making sure I get the ph low enough a big factor? Also, thinking of getting bulkheads for my returns. Anyone know a good place to get them?


----------



## skreebus (May 27, 2007)

Nice job so far. I'm interested to see it when it's finished. And as for the african ph question you asked, africans prefer high ph water. And usually the higher the better. They like 7.5+.


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

skreebus said:


> Nice job so far. I'm interested to see it when it's finished. And as for the african ph question you asked, africans prefer high ph water. And usually the higher the better. They like 7.5+.


Its supposed to get near 50 here this weekend, so maybe I can get back to my epoxy. If not, ill get the wood to finish my stand. Have bulkheads on the way for my returns too.

I have a 75 gallon setup now, and keep the ph about 8.2. Just didnt know if not leaching the concrete would make the ph too high. Thanks


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

Looks really good so far. :thumb: 
From your pics your stand pipes look too tall, maybe it's just me.


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Malawi_Junkie said:


> Looks really good so far. :thumb:
> From your pics your stand pipes look too tall, maybe it's just me.


They may be a little tall. They are just dry fit right now, I may cut about an other inch off them. Thanks


----------



## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

Not sure what you plan for the stand, but I think someone should point out that right now ALL of the weight of the tank is being put on the screws holding up the frame. You should add vertical supports in the 4 corners BETWEEN the top frame and bottom frame. 2 2x4's would give you the wood needed to do this. Even if you plan to skin the tank, this is really important. Sure, you're stand very possibly will hold forever, but that is a lot of strain on those screws and the wood in that manor.


----------



## fishEH (Sep 15, 2008)

under_control said:


> Not sure what you plan for the stand, but I think someone should point out that right now ALL of the weight of the tank is being put on the screws holding up the frame. You should add vertical supports in the 4 corners BETWEEN the top frame and bottom frame. 2 2x4's would give you the wood needed to do this. Even if you plan to skin the tank, this is really important. Sure, you're stand very possibly will hold forever, but that is a lot of strain on those screws and the wood in that manor.


x 1000!

You need to tranfer the weight of the tank (which sits on the top platform) directly down to the bottom platform (which sits on the floor). Cut six 2 x 4 pieces to fit tightly between the top and bottom platform. Place them at each of the six legs.

Otherwise, great build, can't wait to see it with water. Personally I don't have the guts for a plywood tank, lol.


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

under_control said:


> Not sure what you plan for the stand, but I think someone should point out that right now ALL of the weight of the tank is being put on the screws holding up the frame. You should add vertical supports in the 4 corners BETWEEN the top frame and bottom frame. 2 2x4's would give you the wood needed to do this. Even if you plan to skin the tank, this is really important. Sure, you're stand very possibly will hold forever, but that is a lot of strain on those screws and the wood in that manor.


Yeah you're not the first to point that out. Even though I think it would be fine as the existing vertical supports are flush with the top of the frame and the floor, I'm gonna go ahead and add those vertical supports. Thanks for the observation.


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

Hope that 1" will be enough. Also noticed there is no hole in the top of standpipe for air to enter.


> existing vertical supports are flush with the top of the frame and the floor


I don't think additional supports would be necessary, but they couldn't hurt anything either.
Keep up the great work!


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Malawi_Junkie said:


> Hope that 1" will be enough. Also noticed there is no hole in the top of standpipe for air to enter.
> 
> 
> > existing vertical supports are flush with the top of the frame and the floor
> ...


There is a small hole in the standpipe, probably gonna have to make it bigger once I get it up and running though. Thanks


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Decided to add bulkheads for my return lines. Here is what I ordered.


----------



## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

I'm interested in your sump design because I need to build one too. Are the pot scrubbers providing ALL the filtration in your sump (mechanical + bio)?


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Rhinox said:


> I'm interested in your sump design because I need to build one too. Are the pot scrubbers providing ALL the filtration in your sump (mechanical + bio)?


No mostly bio, my mechanical is filter material in the drip tray. I'll post a pic later. Thanks


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

sorry couldn't see em in pic, drilled mine w/ a 5/32 bit and they are completely silent.


----------



## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I don't see any thoughts on your question of the concrete background leaching. It will be something you may need to spend some time soaking,etc. to get most of the leaching done. Maybe a good time to get the BG started so that it can set and soak while you finish? Don't have a spare bathtub around to let it soak for a week or so?  My aproach if I could find a container large enough would be to let it soak and change water. After doing it a couple times, I would check PH on the container water and see what it was doing. You will have some soaking if you have the BG in while you cycle the tank also. What are your plans for waterproofing? I might question if the plywood would flex too much but this is not something I've studied. Just setting here watchin' you do the work. opcorn:


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

PfunMo said:


> I don't see any thoughts on your question of the concrete background leaching. It will be something you may need to spend some time soaking,etc. to get most of the leaching done. Maybe a good time to get the BG started so that it can set and soak while you finish? Don't have a spare bathtub around to let it soak for a week or so?  My aproach if I could find a container large enough would be to let it soak and change water. After doing it a couple times, I would check PH on the container water and see what it was doing. You will have some soaking if you have the BG in while you cycle the tank also. What are your plans for waterproofing? I might question if the plywood would flex too much but this is not something I've studied. Just setting here watchin' you do the work. opcorn:


Yeah I've been doing research on that, also saw where someone was using Drylok for the background, im researching that too. As for waterproofing, im using Epoxy Resin. Here is a pic of what im using, Thanks


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

I used drylok over concrete on my BG and now swear by it. Water tested fine, no leaching. Added fish after 7 days they are just fine. Have regularly checked PH with no variations over the last 5 weeks. Drylok was simple to mix with quikrete conrete colors and apply with a brush, just like painting with latex.








Got mine @ Lowes


----------



## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Voting for Drylok as well, it can create amazing colors!


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Malawi_Junkie said:


> I used drylok over concrete on my BG and now swear by it. Water tested fine, no leaching. Added fish after 7 days they are just fine. Have regularly checked PH with no variations over the last 5 weeks. Drylok was simple to mix with quikrete conrete colors and apply with a brush, just like painting with latex.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*** also seen people use just drylok over stryo, looked great, and no leaching process.


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

This is true next time I will skip the concrete. My BG is 4 peices and 2 of them have no concrete, you really can't tell the difference.


----------



## oscars4me (Feb 22, 2009)

opcorn:


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Well *** finished the first coat of epoxy. Now to let it dry, sand and start on the second coat. Maybe ill start on the background while I wait, hmmmm


----------



## newfisher (Dec 20, 2008)

Epoxy is not paint ... it does not need to "dry" between coats. It's always better to apply epoxy coats wet on wet, before the earlier coat has a chance to fully cure (when it's past liquid but still very tacky), which then allows the coats to more strongly bond, chemically. As such, there is no need at all to sand between coats.

Depending on the hardener and room humidity, epoxy may form a waxy layer (called amine blush) on the cured surface, which will cause subsequent coats to delaminate. Amine must be washed off ... sanding will not remove it, but only spread it around. Amine blush is water soluble, so it's relatively easy to remove, but your tank will need to be scrubbed with a stiff brush, then rinsed off with a hose.

Once cured (and washed to remove amine blush), because of its glossy finish, epoxy must be sanded between coats to provide a proper mechanical bond, because once cured, a chemical bond is no longer possible. However, a mechanical bond from sanding is way inferior to a chemical bond. Sanding also removes epoxy, which you've paid dearly to put on in the first place.

So to summarize, save yourself the time, trouble and expense of sanding between coats ... go wet-on-wet and and enjoy more time for beer afterwards.


----------



## newfisher (Dec 20, 2008)

Oops, forgot to ask, did you lay fibreglass along with the epoxy inside the tank? While it's not absolutely necessary for waterproofing, any flexing of the tank walls may cause the epoxy to crack, causing the tank to no longer be waterproof. Fibreglass would significantly strengthen the epoxy layer. Probably should use fibreglass at the corners at a minimum.


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

newfisher said:


> Epoxy is not paint ... it does not need to "dry" between coats. It's always better to apply epoxy coats wet on wet, before the earlier coat has a chance to fully cure (when it's past liquid but still very tacky), which then allows the coats to more strongly bond, chemically. As such, there is no need at all to sand between coats.
> 
> Depending on the hardener and room humidity, epoxy may form a waxy layer (called amine blush) on the cured surface, which will cause subsequent coats to delaminate. Amine must be washed off ... sanding will not remove it, but only spread it around. Amine blush is water soluble, so it's relatively easy to remove, but your tank will need to be scrubbed with a stiff brush, then rinsed off with a hose.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. I think my next coats will be applied "wet on wet". I did contact the company I purchased the resin from before starting this he did confirm what you said, that if let dry more than 4 to 6 hours to remove the oily layer and sand before the next coat. He said all was needed was to use hot water and a rag to remove it. I did that with the bottom surface and it seemed to remove fairly easy. Since this stuff has to be applied to a horizontal surface to keep from running, I thought it might be easier to do it this way. Allthough I think the next layers will be applied "wet on wet". I didnt use fiber in the corners. Hopefully it wont be needed, time will tell lol. Thanks for all the info. Its a learning process for me and all the input is appreciated.


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

Ok, since I'm home from work today, due to snow, I added some vertical supports on the stand per others suggestions, and finished second coat of coating on bottom of tank. Very time consuming and slow on the Epoxy process, like I thought. Was gonna go get some plywood to finish the stand but now we have snow and ice and dont wanna drive in it. Yes, we shut down the city in the south if they even talk about snow lol.


----------



## drevim (Dec 10, 2009)

Looks great so far. I've been toying with trying one of these for a while. Love looking at the development/assembly process. We are in the same climate area (southen IN), I had been planning to start mine in the spring, since I will be doing a garage build as well.

PS - They are calling for another 3-5" starting tomorrow, so you may have some extra build time coming in the next few days...lol


----------



## smichael (Feb 1, 2010)

drevim said:


> Looks great so far. I've been toying with trying one of these for a while. Love looking at the development/assembly process. We are in the same climate area (southen IN), I had been planning to start mine in the spring, since I will be doing a garage build as well.
> 
> PS - They are calling for another 3-5" starting tomorrow, so you may have some extra build time coming in the next few days...lol


yeah I keep my space heaters running to keep it warm in my garage. Started working on my background today. If only I could get to Lowes to get some plywood, but we're having a blizzard right now. This is rare for where I live, just north of Memphis, tn,


----------

