# Discus



## darkenedkaven (Apr 18, 2008)

I've heard they are really difficult to get back home and settled into their tanks without dying.

Is this true?


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## DirtyBlackSocks (Jan 24, 2008)

In terms of cichlids they're on the delicate side, there are harder fish to care for - but discus are completely different from most other cichlids and require that you do a lot of research before you attempt keeping them.


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

I will get mine at Wednesday and did a lot of research on them before buying. Most of the info I get from Apistomaster who breeds them for 4 decades.

If you know what they need and you are willing to do more effort (more cleaning) they should be just as difficult/easy as most other fish. You just need to gather info and find out what those outstanding beautiful fish need.

To answer your question,....no they are not that difficult and easy to die, as long as you provide them what they need! They do have some special demands like foods, high temp (28C to 31C), limited possibilities with tank mates, a large tank and at least 10 gallon each, keep them in small groups of 6 or more or just as a single pair, need for excellent filtration and 2 to 3 times a week at least 50% water change, PH 7 or a bit lower (domesticated species), soft CLEAN water. Well,.....no difficult things in my opinion,...only a bit more work for you to keep the tank clean.


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## darkenedkaven (Apr 18, 2008)

that is not too bad i clean my tank 1-2 times a week.


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

You need to double the cleaning frequency and do large water changes of at least 50% to keep the tank clean. Domesticated discus are not that difficult but wilds are more demanding. I suggest to read a lot abouth water qualety, temps, foods and best is to talk to some breeders. Those know all the ins and outs and will take away all the mysteries of maintaining discus. I had some doubts if I could provide them what they need but after some proper investigation and lots of e-mails they turn out to be a normal fish with only some special needs. If you are willing to do the extra work on keeping the tank spotless clean and you are more experienced fish keeper, discus is also within your range.


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## Guest (May 27, 2008)

Hardest part of keeping discus is growing them out. Once they become fully grown, they are easier to keep. Young discus are a lot more fragile than adult discus. I have found 3" discus to be much easier to care for them than 2" discus. So start out as big as you can. Young discus require frequent feeding (5 ~ 6 times a day and more) and because of that, frequent water changes. If not properly fed, young discus will not grow as big as they should be. You hear a lot about new discus never settling in and dying. So, preparing the tank and acclimating them carefully is critical. But above all, starting with healthy discus is a must.


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## iplaydrums1 (Apr 16, 2008)

either way, their one of the more rewarding fish you could get. i couldnt encourage you more to give it a shot. i have had tons and its really not that hard, its just a lot of maintenance and making sure they are healthy. which is pretty much the same deal with any fish when you get down to it.


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## AU Chief (Jun 20, 2007)

I've been fighting the urge since last week to purchase the two Pigeon Blood Discus they have at the Petco here for $27 each. I don't need to speen $50 on fish right now, yet at that price its very tempting. I also don't have the setup for them, and our water is relatively hard here. The only thing is, they seem to be doing just fine at Petco and I know for a fact they aren't doing anythign special for them, they are on the same system as the rest of the fish. I work right next door so I go over every break I get and just watch them. Beautiful little fish.


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## jbjack (Jul 10, 2005)

i dont know alot about keeping discus and other fish together, bu i do know that as long as you keep the parimeters good, and water extra clean which i did with my discus, alone, in his own tank you will have no problems. i fed mine twice aday with high quality food, and frozen blood worms twice a week. i had him healthy, and from very young for 14 years, which i believe is past life expentancy for a domestic discus. he was the most rewarding, and beautiful fish i have ever had. good luck! (with proper care and knoledge, you wont need it)


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## jbjack (Jul 10, 2005)

ps, i kept my temp at 86 f


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

It's also better to keep them in groups, they are a schooling fish. I'm just starting into discus and have hit a few bumps already. I started out with 6 discus in a planted 55g. I had some problems with bullying and fish not eating. Yesterday I went back the the lfs I got them from (he said to bring back the one that wasn't doing well). I switched my skinny not eating blue diamond for one that eats like a pig and also picked up 1 more discus. Under the advice of the lfs owner (who is wonderful and I'm lucky to have a place like this) I ended up removing all the plants and substrate. I should have just gone the bare tank route to start, easier to keep clean with baby discus who, like mentioned above need to be fed a lot and kept very clean. Both of those things I found more difficult to do in a planted tank. So now my group of 7 is doing much better!


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## jbjack (Jul 10, 2005)

awsome chef, good call on the bare tank, i kept mine fairly open and bare as well, helps alot.


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

Well I originally was going to go bare tank, then I was talked into doing plants (should have known better, I've never had real plants in my tanks). Now I'm doing it bare, just easier to keep clean and easier for frequent feedings. I now see why most experts recomend that beginners start with a bare tank! :thumb:

I also keep mine at 86, although I was told if you bump up the heat that will sometime get fish that aren't eating to eat.


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## hey_wood1981 (Apr 7, 2004)

i was told to keep the temp 88-90 degrees.


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## apistomaster (Jun 22, 2006)

Discus are not very hard to keep but let's make one thing very clear up front.
88*F to 90*F is WAY to hot. 84*F is a good temperature for Discus.

The other thing you must NOT do is buy them from a Petco or other chain. Even buying Discus from a fish shop is not a good way to begin. The exception to that would if you know a shop that happens to breed discus in their back room you can go with them.

I highly recommend buying your discus from a sponsor listed at www.simplydiscus.com.
You may be assured of getting very good stock from anyone of them. Choose a supplier that is near you if possible but do not be afraid to order from anyone who has the fish you want. Never skimp on quality when it comes to buying your stock. Discus live to be older than ten years. You may as well buy exactly what you like the first time even if it means paying overnight freight. If you go on the cheap with your stock you are throwing your money away. 
Young Discus should be fed four times a day. Tetra Color granules, frozen Blood worms, frozen beef heart blends are all that they need for getting good growth and color. They also appreciate live black worms and live brine shrimp for an occasional treat.

Starting out with discus 3 inches is is better for first time discus keepers. Discus at 2 inches are still best left to those with experience. Discus aren't manufactured so you can expect them to vary a little from the nominal size listed.

The idea of raising discus in bare bottom tanks is founded on the idea that bare bottom aquariums are much easier to keep clean. Unfortunately they are also ugly tanks to have in your living room. Fortunately there is a middle ground that retains ease of maintenance with improved aesthetics. A very attractive grow out tank can be designed. I never use bare bottom tanks because they are to ugly and I am a discus breeder.
It is OK to use a thin layer of sand no more than 1/4 inch thick. This is just as easy to keep clean as a bare tank. You can add some attractive pieces of drift wood; I happen to use that Malaysian wood in my tanks. All you need to do is give it a good rinsing in hot running water before placing it in the aquarium. Discus like plants. You should grow one of the floating plants and allow them to cover about half of the surface. Discus like the shaded areas at times. Any of these floating plants are very good. Water Sprite, Tropical Hornwor,t Ceratophyllum submersum or Riccia fluitans are all good choices. Additionally rooted plant may be potted in those Glad ware food containers. Good rooted plants for a discus tank are Echinodorus species, the Amazon Sword Plants. The best species of Sword plants are E. bleheri, E. amazonicus, E. parviflorus var. "Tropica" and the various Hybrids Swords like Ozelot and Kleiner Bar do very well with only moderate lighting, 1-1/2 to 2 watts per gallon is sufficient. The potted sword plants only need a fertilizer in the pot. No liquid fertilizers are necessary nor CO2. I highly recommend RedSea FloraBase as both the potting soil and the thin bottom layer.
Here is a look into one of my Red Turquoise grow out tanks using FloraBase. These are 8 week old discus and the small plecos are some of my baby Peckoltia sp L134 Leopard frog. There are a few baby Royal Farlowella in with these, too. This tank is not decorated since it is a breeding room grow out tank. There is nothing wrong to also keep some Rummy Nose Tetras, Cardinal Tetra or Pencil fish with your young discus.








I recommend including one common Bushy nose Pleco as the algae eater and if you wish, Corydoras sterbai are one of the best and prettiest Corydoras species suited for warm discus aquariums.


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

I just became a mother of 3 Discus today.  
I've done a good deal of research before buying them. 
Plus not to mention of course being in the hobby for a while to know important basics.

I couldn't help but read somewhere that I shouldn't put carbon? 
I have a 55 gallon tank with a heater and an aquaclear filter. 
My 3 Discus are in quarantine right now and won't be let out in the aquarium until 2 weeks. 
With aeration and a heater of course.
I have to change 40% of the water every day for the first week and the second week, every other day. 
(Instructions by the breeder who sold them to me.)

Here's a pic of my tank opcorn:


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

P.S. How old do you think my Discus are? They're only about 2".


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## DeadFishFloating (Oct 9, 2007)

Very nice looking tank *mabel_photo6*. I like the clean cut look to it.

Are your plants potted or planted, or are they all attached to driftwood and rock?

What else you got in there apart from the gold angelfish and Santoperca species? Also how big is the tank?


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

Hi Mabel,...a very nice looking tank! :thumb:

I just bought 8 discus of 3" my selves and keep them in a 55 gallon tank to grow them out. I talked a lot with Apistomaster abouth maintaining them and he breeds them for 4 decades and is a very knowledgeable and experienced Discus breeder.

The number of 3 discus is a bit unfortunate. Best number is 6 or more or,.... a pair. The 55 gallon tank could hold 6 adults but there isn't much room left for other inhabitants. You might want to grow out 6 and wait until they pair up and keep the pair and turn the remaining fish back to the lfs.

The water changes sounds fine and I also do 40% wc on daily base. As long as the fish grow I need to keep this up and even might increase it to 65% especially they are messy feeders and the high waste levels also becouse of the beef heart mix. While growing they need very clean water with nitrates as low as possible. If not they stay small. I also feed them 5 times a day with beefheart mix (2 or 3 times) and frozen or live foods (daphnia, bloodworms, white worms, Artemis). Mine refuse to feed on flakes and pellets. I keep them now for one week and they significantly gained in coloration and also start to get more flesh to their bones. So far so good.

What color morph do you have? I got Stendker Alenquer and I think they are Alenquer Royal with lots of blue and red. Basically a wild color morph.


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

Why thank you DeadFishFloating.  I like keeping it simple and clean... yet natural. It's a 55 gallon.
My plants are planted. If the pots were left, they'd probably be visible since my Jurupari sift my sand around. 
Besides my Angels and my Satanoperca, I have 2 Bleeding Heart Tetras, 2 Cherry Barbs, 5 Serpae Tetras, 1 Long Finned Zibra Danio, 5 Peppered Cories, and a Clown Pleco. But I'm willing to get rid of the smaller fish or move them to my 20 gallon.

I know 3 isn't a great number Dutch Dude.  I'm thinking of ordering more but it's super expensive.  Even if I got six, it would be hard for me to part from them 'cause all that work you put into keeping the tank clean and what not. I really don't know what I'm gonna do. I want to put enough up to where I can keep them all. I just don't know what that number is.

Right now they're in a bucket. I still change 40% of the water every day. They seem to be doing pretty good so far. I haven't had any problems. Which is good news for me because I was scared I wasn't ready for them. They have to spend (according to my seller) 2 weeks in isolation. After the first week, I have to change 40% of the water every other day. Once the 2 weeks are done and they show no signs of stress or disease, they can be introduced into their new home.

Weird that you say the food you feed them because right now they seem to be taking pellets easier than bloodworms right now. I figured they'd be a little bit more open to different foods when in their new home.

I bought my Discus from Somethingsphishy.com and the ones I ordered were a Red Melon, Siam Red, and Red Dragon. So far the one that has the most color is the Red Melon. I've yet to get photos of them... a little hard considering they're in a bucket.

What about carbon in my filter????? :-? 
I've read I should take it out of my filter. Is this true?? 
Or will my Discus be perfectly fine with it in there??


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

There has been some new comers to my 55 gallon.

I had German Blue Rams pair up in my 20 gallon and was bullying 2 other females. 
So now there's 2 female German Blue Rams in my 55 gallon. 
That won't be a problem would it? Since they're small fish and all... ? 
(And no male)


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## Gordon C. Snelling (Apr 15, 2007)

In a bucket??


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

> Right now they're in a bucket.


  Why??? I realy hope this isn't their quarantine facility!!! If so I suggest to put them in the 55 as soon as possible (after removing some of the fish to the 20 gallon).

I wish you told us more abouth the current stock list but maybe we should have asked that! How many angels are in that tank? You also keep one adult jurupari? What is his size? A 55 is actually to small for an adult jurupari. Did you know they can grow to 12 inch? They also do best in groups of 5 or more. The bleeding hearts are fine but the serpae can be fin nibbling,...something you don't want with discus and angels. Clown Boitia, barbs, danio and peppered cories aren't the best tankmates for the discus due to behavior or requirements (to high temp). They be fine in the 20 gallon and becouse there are only 2 of them I suggest to also put the bleeding hearts in there becouse the temp in the discus/angel tank will be on the edge of what they tolerate.

So,...what abouth the jurupari?

I also came across something abouth discus and carbon but I realy would not know if carbon makes them sick. I don't use carbon so I did not payed much atention to it. I suggest to check simplydiscus.com

GBR will be fine with the discus and have the same needs.

Young Discus need a lot of atention. They need at least 5 times a day food. Most breeders and more experienced discus owners do feed beefheart or at least protein rich foods. Pellets are fine for some vitamins and vegitable matter but frozen and live food and beefheart blend should be the main foods. They need those protein rich foods to grow. If they don't get the food they may stay small or even die. The mentioned foods do realy mess up the water. Thats why I do a daily wc of 40% each day and siphon out all the dirt and left over food particles. It also keeps nitrates low. High nitrate levels also reduce growth and can couse illnesses on Discus becouse they are sensitive to nitrates. You need to keep it below 20 all the time and preferable below 10. So for the next 8 to 10 months you need to do daily water changes around 40% or at the other day for 60% or more on the 55 gallon tank! Once they are adult you can do with smaller water changes but they would still need around 50% water change 3 times a week.

You selected some nice bright colored fish.

Your lucky to have Discus that are not picky abouth foods. I made my own beef heart blend but they refuse to feed on it so I bought the beef heart mix of Stendker (the German breeder) and they are eating is fine. They do prefer live (daphnia, bloodworms, artemis) and frozen bloodworms.


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

Well the only reason they're in a bucket is because this supposed (good) breeder instructed me to do so. He gave me detailed instructions on how to isolate them and how long to do it. So far they're actually doing really well. I have 2 Jurupari. A male and a female and the male is about 3 inches and the female is half the size. I've actually read that the males get up to 6 inches and the females a little smaller. They get along okay but there hasn't been any signs of spawning or pairing.

I plan on moving out the Serpae Tetras and probably also my Bleeding Heart Tetras. I have 2 Cherry Barbs also... I might just move all the small fish into the 20 gallon.

I have an Aquaclear with a sponge, carbon, and those bio cylinders they come with when you first buy them. So I ask because I've just always used carbon. I have 2 Angels and they used to be a pair always spawning (but no success because I had no intention on breeding them) and now they hate each other. The male is always chasing her away and lucky I have plants and she can hide. I'm actually looking for taller plants for them to hide in.

I have some frozen beefheart, brine shrimp, blood worms, freeze dried tubiflex worms, and pellets that I already feed my existing fish so I don't think the variety of food will be a problem. Also, I clean the tank once a week so, again, it shouldn't be a problem. I test my water before I do the water change and my nitrates have been at 0.  I don't think it should be a problem to add an extra water change or two through out the week.

Yeah I'm very glad that they eat fine. They'll only eat if I leave the room or if they can't see me. lol So I let them be since they're in isolation and trying to get them nice and calm before I can let them free into the bigger tank. But hey! So far so good... it's the first time I have Discus and they seem to be doing perfectly fine. I try to follow what I should do to keep them happy. I was so paranoid of having them die on me! But again, so far they've been nothing but perfect.


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

Is this bucket at least a large 20g rubbermaid tub or something? or is it an actual 5g round bucket like you would get pickles or mayonnaise in for a restaurant?

and this is really what somethingphishy suggested? a bucket was suggested? if there was actual wording, feel free to share it.

Lots of luck with the new arrivals... let's cross fingers together :thumb:


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

Yeah lol unfortunately a 5 gallon bucket. I told them that I didn't have an isolation tank and they told me any bucket would work and to make 40% water changes every day for the first week then every other day the second week. THEN they can go in the 55 gallon.

I found it a little odd myself but if they know any better, it's them I suppose. I mean they have a heater and some aeration going on there. The temp is at 82.

It doesn't seem too great but so far it's been working. I'll do anything to introduce them carefully. The main reason for putting them in isolation is to just get them calm from the shipping process. It was shipped from Florida to Texas. But really like I said, they're eating and they seem to be doing okay so I'm taking somethingsphishy's advice alright.


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

Oh specifically, the bucket is a 5 gallon tank that I bought from Target. 
Those house buckets. Not the mayo jars or the pickle buckets.


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## Gordon C. Snelling (Apr 15, 2007)

I would move the other fish and get these out of the bucket today. If you have to keep them in that thing for the entire time I would also not reduce the frequency of water changes, and watch that heater. In addition they do not really need a calming period before going into the tank, quarantine is just that a means to make sure hopefully they are healthy. Based on information like this if I were still in the market for discus, I would certainly not buy from them.


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

Although I'm inclined to agree with you on this one Gordon, I am also going to keep an open mind on this new way of handling the Discus.

Perhaps they have found that very young Discus do very well like this and it allows the fish time to fully recover from shipping... we don't know so we "should" reserve judgment.

Mabel, do keep us informed as to how the Discus fare now, when added to the tank, etc. I'm quite skeptical at this point in time... but hey... I like learning new tricks, however odd they may sound! :thumb:


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

> Perhaps they have found that very young Discus do very well like this and it allows the fish time to fully recover from shipping... we don't know so we "should" reserve judgment.


I can understand this becouse your in a diferent position but I realy can't think of a good reason why putting discus in a bucket would be OK to do. To be more specific,...I strongly suggest to put them as soon as possible in the 55!!!

There are several reasons why I suggest the tank. The bucket is small so easy build up of nitrates and dirt, stress becouse of the limited space, peeks and dips in the temp becouse the heater will raise the temperature very quick unless it is a 25 Watt heater and the change the fish get burned by the heater. The reason why people quarantine fish is to make sure the fish are healthy so if they become ill they will be easy to treat in the quarantine tank and you won't introduce the illness to the 55 tank. If you do decide to keep them in the bucket I suggest to do every day, preferable 2 times a day a large water change for the period they are in the buckets. Those are your fish but if it were mine they were already swimming in the 55. The change of them become ill in the bucket is significant. Lets not forget that stress is one of the main reasons for fish to become ill.

I checked out some info on the Internet and books (SA eartheaters by Thomas Weidner) and the maximum size of Jurupari should be between the 6 and 10 inch depending on the origin/strain. So I was wrong with the 12 inch but still it is a larger cichlid that brings in quit some waste.

So 2 Jurupari, 2 Angels and 3 Discus,....thats quit a lot in a 55 but doable. I do suggest to do 2 or 3 large waterchanges every week. Lets not forget that discus need clean water and are the more demanding fish.



> I clean the tank once a week so, again, it shouldn't be a problem. I test my water before I do the water change and my nitrates have been at 0.


 With the current inhabitants and the water change regime of once a week a waterchange, this value doesn't seem to be right. You should mesure some nitrates. Is your testkit OK?

Did you checked simplydiscus.com? Lots of Discus info on there.


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

I mean don't get me wrong, I was kinda skeptical myself but they insisted on doing it this way. My Discus are only about 2 inches.

As stated previously, I change 40% of the water every day for the first week, which will end tomorrow. The second week should be 40% water changes every other day.

I didn't mention it to somethingsphishy.com that one of the Discus looked skinny. I don't know why I didn't mention it but the fish has actually put on some weight since I've had him. So I guess I must be doing something good. I'm still skeptical about leaving them in the bucket for the full 2 weeks. But I also fear of losing a fish or one of them getting ill.

I should test my water again for Nitrates because I've been reading that my Nitrates shouldn't measure 0 (in an established tank). It is a mature tank... it's been set up for 6 months. I agree *Dutch Dude* that the value doesn't seem to be right.

I'll keep updating though... so far so good!! I've actually seen a difference from when they first came in. They would always hide by the heater. I don't see any burn marks of any kind. Every day I look in to see their skin, fins, eyes... just to make sure they're doing okay. They don't hide by the heater any more, they move around from place to place. And the skinniest Discus has gained weight and looks tons better from when it came in. Update I shall!!


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

Here's a small update: I've taken out the Serpae Tetras, Cherry Barbs, and my Bleedingheart Tetras and put them in my 20 Gallon.

Now it's just my 2 Jurupari, 2 Angelfish, 2 (female) German Blue Rams, 5 Peppered Cories, and my Clown Pleco.

Question: What are your thoughts on using TetraAqua's Blackwater Extract. 
Somethingsphishy.com recommended the use of it. 
The only thing I use is TetraAqua "AquaSafe" and occasionally "EasyBalance with Nitraban." 
Suggestions?


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

Just wondering how the jurupari do in the warmer temps that discus need?


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## DirtyBlackSocks (Jan 24, 2008)

Black water extract is a waste of money - if you want to add tannin content to your water just replace the driftwood in the tank from time to time or add peat pellets to your filter in a mesh bag, but none of it is necessary.


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

> Just wondering how the jurupari do in the warmer temps that discus need?


I expect them to be fine at temps around 28C to 29C and those temps are fine for the Discus as well.

Blackwater extract is basically peat extract. It is a easy method but quit expensive like DBS already mentioned becouse you need to add a dose every week and with large water changes every time after a wc. As long as the PH is around 7 you won't realy need it for soften the water. On the other side tannins do have a positive effect on breeding behaviour and well being. So it isn't realy necessary on domesticated discus but if you feel like providing them something extra it is OK. I suggest something diferent. Most of us don't want to pull out the driftwood on regular base. An other method is to set up a barrel put in tapwater and air stone and peat. Let it sit for a week so the water becomes darkened. The tanins from the peat will be dissolved in the water and there you go,...blackwater. You can use this water for water changes. But,....keep in mind that it is extra and not necessary for domesticated discus.

Good to hear the fish are OK and doing well. I would never use such a method but that's just me. They are only 2 inch and at the same time this is the biggest problem. At that size discus are more vulnerable and thats why Larry (Apistomaster) suggested 3 inch fish for the first time.

I hope the fish be OK but I very strongly suggest to keep up with the 40% wc and if possible 2 times a day.


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## Jerseyfish (Apr 16, 2008)

You probably don't need to do anything more to the water then you are already doing for them in their current bucket home. If they are doing as well as you have said, then probably just keep the water perimeters close to what is in there.

As long as the water they are doing well in now is the same as the water they are going into, there should be no need to mess with it. Just my opinion.


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

I'm seriously thinking of cutting the "2 week suggested" into just one. 
Today completes a week since they've come in and they've been nothing but good.

They look, act, and eat healthy. :fish: 
But before they go into my tank, I'm going to take out the carbon filter and exchange it for an ammonia remover filter insert and of course a water change. In simplydiscus.com, I read that carbon can cause diseases so I'm not taking any chances. :fish:


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

> In simplydiscus.com, I read that carbon can cause diseases so I'm not taking any chances.


I read that as well but I'm not sure if this is true or not. I didn't payed much atention to it becouse I don't use carbon and don't see a need for the use of carbon. Your save not to use the carbon.

I don't think you need to use ammonia remover. Just keep up with lots of water changes like 50% or more every other day. This is necessary becouse of the high waste levels (especialy with feeding beefheart), to keep the water clean and the nitrate low so the Discus will grow fast and be healthy.

I like to see some pics when they are settled in their new future home :wink:


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## mabel_photo6 (Oct 26, 2007)

(Sorry, I know they're big!!)

 I did a water change then introduced them to their new home. I'm so so glad that they've been doing good. I took out the male Angel 'cause he was bullying the female Angel. It looks good though and the Discus seem to be liking their new home. They swim mostly around the plants and I'm glad they're finding some comfort in them too... last thing I want is stressed out Discus!!

Besides the Aquaclear filter that I have, what else do you recommend to keep the water moving or well oxygenated? Right now I have 2 air stones on the opposite end of the filter and the other sort of in the middle. I believe I posted a pic of my tank on this thread.


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

Nice looking fish and thanks for sharing the pics :thumb:

In a discus tank you don't want a lot of current so if you add a canister for example you can add a spray barr or aim the output to the glass so the flow will be more defused. Most breeders work with approximately 10 times filter turn over. On a 55 gallon tank this would be 550 GPH on filtration. Currently I use 5 times turn over but I will upgrade when the fish grow larger.

It is the movement on the water surface that brings in oxygen. You increased the movement with the 2 air stones and the HOB filter. It all depends on the output of the filter I guess.


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

I have an AC110 and an AC70 (about 800gph) on my 55g Discus tank.


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

Shef,....well thats more than sufficient and no problem at all as long as the fish don't have balance problems becouse of the flow. Discus do have a large body surface and becouse of that they will have more balance problems with high flow levels.


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

Yes I know they hate flow. A lady from my local forum showed me a really neat trick on how to turn down the flow on those filters. You just cut a piece of plastic from a 2L bottle and tape/secure it over the output part of the filter so that the water hits the plastic and lessens the flow. It works really well and allows me to use both filters (since I was paranoid about not having the water clean enough) and still keep my babies happy by not knocking them around. Of course I'm still very much a newbie at this but so far so good.


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

Thats a nice idea Shef and good to hear it works well. :thumb:

Haha,..well I'm new to Discus ass well. I keep tanks for quit some time now but the reputation of Discus to be delicate kept me off. Luckily I came across a very experienced breeder that told me a lot abouth his passion and fish and finally I could no longer resist. Thanks Larry (apistomaster). 

Shef,....what color morphs do you have and what age / size are your Discus?


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

I have only had mine for about a month now. I've had fish for about 14 years now, including a reef tank that's about 6months old. I was getting kinda bored with what I have and what I've had in the past and researched discus and was told they are not as hard as everyone says. I'm also lucky to have a LFS near me who gets in some pretty nice Discus and is absolutely wonderful to deal with. Originally I started off with 2 golden phoenixes, 2 spotted greens, and 2 blue diamonds (in an overfiltered 55g tank). My tank was planted (about a week before getting the discus) and had sand substrate and 12 cardinals. One of my blue diamonds stopped eating and got really skinny and my largest golden became the dominant fish and terrorized the smaller golden.

The LFS owner told me to bring back the not eating blue and he swapped him for another one. At the same time he advised removing the sand/plants and going barebottom just to grow them out. I did that and was amazed at how much more outgoing they became. I also picked up 1 more (I think it is a super red pigeon blood) to help spread out aggression. They are all about 2.5" with the larger golden and the red a bit bigger at 3". They are doing really well but I do plan on adding some decor back once they are older. Here are some pics:










































I'm really enjoying them and can't wait til their bigger!


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

What do you have dutch dude?


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

Hi folks. I have to keep this short becouse of lack on time. Nice fish but the last pic of the yellow Discus made me think it is older than the size suggest. I think his eyes are quit large compared to the body. The other fish look fine to me and you selected some nice colorful fish. I keep now for 3 weeks 8 Stendker Alenquer discus. They aren't the dull browns but do have a lot of blue and red on them. The natural colors will be nicer in my set up. For now they are in a 50 gallon tank with 5 times filter turnover and 50% to 65% water change every day. I give them 5 feeds,...2 times beefheart, the remaining 3 times frozen or live Artemis, bloodworms, Daphnia. Mine refuse to feed on pellets or other frozen foods like krill. When they are close to adult I hope at least one pair will form. The remaining 6 fish will go to the 90 gallon together with 6 Guianacara stergiosi (Rio Caroni). Unfortunately some of my fish have "wrong" patterns. Some bars are not complete or irregular or bended. They are healthy, have a good body shape and eat eagerly and already have grown and gained in weight. To me that is more important as a wrong pattern in the bars. I noticed this also occurs with wild specimen. I will add pics later on but at the moment I don't have the time. I will be off the board for abouth a week or so. I talk to you guy's later on and hopefully this treat is still going on :wink:

Talk to you soon,

Ruurd


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## shef (Oct 3, 2004)

You know you're right, in that last pic of the yellow the eyes do look big. They really don't look that big in person and if you look at the second last pic (with the blue one and the yellow), the eyes don't look as big and that is the same fish. Is it just me or do they look smaller in the second last pic? But I"m not an expert. Hopefully it's not stunted but if it is, I still like it.


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## white-worms (Jun 18, 2008)

dntx5b9 said:


> Hardest part of keeping discus is growing them out. Once they become fully grown, they are easier to keep. Young discus are a lot more fragile than adult discus. I have found 3" discus to be much easier to care for them than 2" discus. So start out as big as you can. Young discus require frequent feeding (5 ~ 6 times a day and more) and because of that, frequent water changes. If not properly fed, young discus will not grow as big as they should be. You hear a lot about new discus never settling in and dying. So, preparing the tank and acclimating them carefully is critical. But above all, starting with healthy discus is a must.


I totally agree, so many people go and buy "1 half inch" discus and then they die on them. I would never advice any novice person new to keeping discus buy them at that size, but instead go for 2 half, to 3 inch instead. Young discus are much more susceptible to flukes the younger they are.

Thing with young discus is to avoid them being in a stressful environment, make sure they are happy and well settled and you'll be rewarded for it.



> Hi folks. I have to keep this short becouse of lack on time. Nice fish but the last pic of the yellow Discus made me think it is older than the size suggest. I think his eyes are quit large compared to the body. The other fish look fine to me and you selected some nice colorful fish. I keep now for 3 weeks 8 Stendker Alenquer discus. They aren't the dull browns but do have a lot of blue and red on them. The natural colors will be nicer in my set up. For now they are in a 50 gallon tank with 5 times filter turnover and 50% to 65% water change every day. I give them 5 feeds,...2 times beefheart, the remaining 3 times frozen or live Artemis, bloodworms, Daphnia. Mine refuse to feed on pellets or other frozen foods like krill. When they are close to adult I hope at least one pair will form. The remaining 6 fish will go to the 90 gallon together with 6 Guianacara stergiosi (Rio Caroni). Unfortunately some of my fish have "wrong" patterns. Some bars are not complete or irregular or bended. They are healthy, have a good body shape and eat eagerly and already have grown and gained in weight. To me that is more important as a wrong pattern in the bars. I noticed this also occurs with wild specimen. I will add pics later on but at the moment I don't have the time. I will be off the board for abouth a week or so. I talk to you guy's later on and hopefully this treat is still going on


The reason why your discus will not eat pellet food is because you've spoiled them on frozen foods 

I feed mine TetraPrima, DiscusBits and Aquarium Flake food (they eat the lot). They really go mad for TetraPrima and DiscusBits. As far as the Flake Food goes. They eat that on the bottom that I sink. My Blue Diamonds like flake the most and really fill up on it. I only feed frozen bloodworm about once every 3 days, so they don't start to pull there faces at pellet food.


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## ksane (Mar 19, 2008)

I haven't finished reading this thread yet but something you need to know (if it hasn't been mentioned in the pages I've yet to read) is that SomethingPhishy.com is a total complete wack-job. The guy's an idiot (do I have to add "in my opinion"here? If so, add it). Do a google search on "somethingphishy.com +reviews" and you'll find more than you need to know. The guy makes me furious and I don't know why he's even still in business.


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