# Phosphates in tap water



## mtayl675 (Jan 1, 2013)

Hello all! Trying to rid my tank of what I believe is blue green algae. It removes easily from substrate and glass, but appears with a vengeance shortly after water changes and cleaning. If I'm correct, the biggest factor I'm running into is my phosphate levels. The tank is measuring 5ppm....tap water at 2ppm. So I'm playing from behind every time I do a water change.

I have a 120 gallon tank with a 40 gallon sump underneath. The sump, as usual broken into 3 comparmemts. Live rock, open area, sump return. In the open area I have attempted to create a refugium by floating some (not a lot) golden pathos and philodendron. I did this in hopes of lowering both phosphates and nitrates. So:

How do I best eliminate phosphates from the tap water I am filling the tank with?

Should I introduce more plants to help manage it?

What kind of chemicals/filter media would you suggest?

Thanks for the input! (Please let me know if other info is needed about the tank)


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## skurj (Oct 30, 2011)

live rock? won't be doing you any good in fw..

I think you need to revisit your sump design, can't help you there though..


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## oyster dog (Jul 2, 2013)

You need to verify if you have blue-green algae--does it grow in slimy sheets, blue-green or maroon in color? If so, then you have it.

You have two options for eliminating blue-greens: 1) treatment with Maracyn, or 2) adding white vinegar (10ml/50 gallons) to your tank every day. Maracyn, an antibiotic, will kill the blue-green algae (it's actually a photosynthetic bacteria), while vinegar appears to inhibit its' growth. Reefkeepers (and myself) have successfully used vinegar to control blue-greens for years. Either method is effective against blue-green algae.

You will never easily eliminate phosphate from your water (you'll add it back every time you feed your fish), and it's not the culprit, anyway.


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## mtayl675 (Jan 1, 2013)

Skurj...probably using wrong terminology for the rock. Was trying to describe rocks that the water empties over and contains bacteria for converting the ammonia, etc.

Oyster...the algae is blue-green in color and grows at the bottom of the glass and all over the white crushed coral. I usually brush it off with a toothbrush and bury it while siphoning.

Maracyn sounds like the atom bomb method for this...any risk to healthy fish?

The white vinegar suggestion is really interesting...with a 120 gallon tank, you are suggesting I add about 25 mL everyday from here on out? Is that right? And again, any risk to the fish/chemical balance in the tank?


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## skurj (Oct 30, 2011)

How much flow do you have in the tank? You could also try a blackout of the tank for a few days, wrap the tank and block as much light as you can. The blackout won't cure the problem but may eliminate the algae temporarily. Do you overfeed?


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## oyster dog (Jul 2, 2013)

Maracyn is the atom bomb, and there is no risk to healthy fish. It is an antibiotic, but it's one that does not significantly affect your nitrifying bacteria as long as you follow the directions. You will need to siphon out the dead and decaying blue-green algae before they degrade your water quality.

Yes, 25 ml/day of vinegar from here on out. There is no risk to fish or chemistry, as it gets broken down into CO2 and H2O by bacteria. You could try the vinegar method today, and if it doesn't work after 3-4 days then you can go nuclear.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

You might find this article helpful: http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com/20 ... riums.html
If you go the Maracyn (erythromycin) route, I recommend monitoring water parameters for the duration of dosing as it can be harsh on nitrifying bacteria, particularly in newly cycled tanks.


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## skurj (Oct 30, 2011)

b..bb..but... maracyn likely won't cure the problem, just make it go away temporarily...

lighting? lighting schedule? Sunlight?


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## mtayl675 (Jan 1, 2013)

Awesome stuff guys/gals. This forum is amazing. Thanks for all the help!


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## mtayl675 (Jan 1, 2013)

1200 gph pump. Lights on from 930 am to 930 pm. Very little direct sunlight, some indirect.


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## skurj (Oct 30, 2011)

Do you need 12hrs of lighting? is it a planted tank? If its not a planted tank cut back the lighting.


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## mtayl675 (Jan 1, 2013)

Not a planted tank. Should I reduce lighting during day time (or is that a non factor because of the indirect sunlight)? Or have the lights go off earlier at night? How many hours do you suggest? I just love being able to see the tank/fish.


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## oyster dog (Jul 2, 2013)

Mine are on for 12 hours (2 65W 10000K power compacts over a 7' x 2' x 2' tank, 210 gallons). I do not have blue-green algae.


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## skurj (Oct 30, 2011)

The fish don't need the lights, I run my lights on my non planted tanks for no more than 8-10 hours, i'd run them less if it wasn't for weekends when I spend most of my time in the same room as the tanks. I'm usually home by 4 and the lights come on around 1pm and stay on until 10ish on the non-planted, I'm in front of the tanks all evening usually.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I agree on lighting the tanks only 8 hours daily.

I have no phosphates, but I do get cyanobacteria in my planted tanks when my nitrates get too low...the plants suffer because of lack of fertilizer and cyanobacteria comes to visit. If I catch it early enough I can add nitrates (fertilizer) and as the plants perk up the cynobacteria goes away.


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## Floridagirl (Jan 10, 2008)

Yes, reduce time, and make sure your bulbs are not old, and use as little wattage as possible.


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## pastarican (Jun 12, 2003)

I had tried a variety of methods, but haven't been able to find Maracyn for some time...so I took a stab with the vinegar method...THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!! I haven't gotten rid of all of it yet, but for once, I am winning this war!

-M-


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