# My 210 Gallon Cichlid Tank Setup...



## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Hey everyone!

I have been reading this forum for 2 weeks now and I settled for a 210 Gallon Cichlid tank setup measuring in at 72X24X29!

First off, it was heavy (365lbs) and I moved it into my room with just myself and buddy of mine. I really don't want to do that again!

Today I am going to finish purchasing the rest of the gravel. I settled for black as the tank is black and the pine stand is black as well.
*
Here is my girlfriend taking a quick nap after installing the background:
*









Although I am not new to fish tanks in my old household, this is my first tank that I am setting up in my apartment.

Originally I was settling for a 125 but realized the fish I love (Oscars, Clown Knife, Green Terror, etc,) would outgrow after 8 months...

I am really excited but concerned on how to properly cycle the tank before adding the fish my LPS is holding/feeding for me.

All this nitrate/nitrite/ammonia/PH etc is confusing the heck out of me. I own a car performance business and build/tune 4 cyl. 2.0 turbo lancer evolutions for a living but when it comes to this I am literally lost...

I have read through a few pages explaining everything but everyone knows when it comes to actually doing it is where things can/will get confusing the first few times.

Anyone have any solid pointers on how to start?

Like I stated above, I will be purchasing the rest of the gravel I need (200lbs) and will be washing it. I also purchased a chemical which takes all the iron, etc out of the water.

Now I need some direction after I finish with the gravel and filling the tank. Obviously get the filter up and running and then cycling the tank is next....

Any Help/Comments are greatly appreciated.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Welcome to the forum!

There are a lot of good articles in the Library section of the forum on setting up a new tank. Check out this section regarding Chemistry http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/c ... y_list.php. There are a lot of good articles that explain in simple terms what you are asking.

I personally prefer to do a Fishless Cycle using household Ammonia to do the initial cycle for my tanks.

I also prefer to use the API liquid test kits rather than the dip kit tests. I would recommend getting an Ammonia, NitrIte, NitrAte, and pH kit to start with though I also have the gH & kH reagents.

BTW, I love the size of your tank and look forward to seeing your setup progress. What are you planning on using for filtration?


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Deeda said:


> Welcome to the forum!
> 
> There are a lot of good articles in the Library section of the forum on setting up a new tank. Check out this section regarding Chemistry http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/c ... y_list.php. There are a lot of good articles that explain in simple terms what you are asking.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kind words!

I purchased a Fluval FX5 Filter (400gph).


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## Rick_Lindsey (Aug 26, 2002)

If I had the cash, I'd go to dr Tim's and order a bottle of his ammonium chloride and his smallest bottle of bacteria. Dose up the aquarium go ~2ppm with the ammonium chloride (and remember how many drops this is), and dump in the bottled bacteria. Wait a day, and test... dose back up to 2ppm if necesary, repeat until the ammonia and nitrite are both zero at your pre-dosing test. Then do a water change, and go get the fish!

You can basically do the same thing without the bottled bacteria (that's what I'm doing) but you don't need to test daily until you get closer to the end, and it will take weeks instead of days. I'm halfway through week 2 and no appreciable nitrite reading yet .

-Rick (the armchair aquarist, who needs to go to the LFS and see if he can buy a few "seasoned" bioballs from their central filtration to drop in the back of his HOB filter)


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

I have the same tank and I cycled it with 36 black skirt tetras.


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## cichy31 (Jul 23, 2010)

thats funny


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Lindenhurst, just down the road from us :thumb: And a motorhead, I have a 382 stroked Z06 with a intercooled roots blower and methanhol injection. 575/575 to the pavement 

We have a similar tank to yours, 400 gph will not move enough water for that size tank. We move over 2000gph in ours and still have two spots where poo collects. Look at the Eheim 2262 as well. Our 210 is drilled and we run a sump and a 450 gph can, thats how I know that one can will not be enough.

There are some excellent powerheads out there by koralia and Tunze that will prolly get the circulation you need in that tank and not bother the fish, you might want to look at them.


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## Hanafuda (Mar 31, 2010)

What a monster of a tank! Is it AGA/Aqueon, Perfecto, or other? Is it new? If AGA, if you don't mind me asking what'd it set you back and where'd you get it? (pm please if you'd rather not post that) I've been thinking a 180 would be the biggest I'd ever go but that extra bit of depth does look nice.

I tend to agree with fox ... you need more than just the FX5 on that tank if you're keeping big cichlids. Do a lot of research and look into building your own sump/trickle filter to supplement the Fluval. Or you could spend the bucks on another large canister. You want multiple filters anyway ... shouldn't let everything depend on just one machine. Machines fail. Plan for it.

Here I am just stressing over setting up a 75. You've got me all :drooling: with that 210. Remember to update us when the fish are in.


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Rick_Lindsey said:


> If I had the cash, I'd go to dr Tim's and order a bottle of his ammonium chloride and his smallest bottle of bacteria. Dose up the aquarium go ~2ppm with the ammonium chloride (and remember how many drops this is), and dump in the bottled bacteria. Wait a day, and test... dose back up to 2ppm if necesary, repeat until the ammonia and nitrite are both zero at your pre-dosing test. Then do a water change, and go get the fish!
> 
> You can basically do the same thing without the bottled bacteria (that's what I'm doing) but you don't need to test daily until you get closer to the end, and it will take weeks instead of days. I'm halfway through week 2 and no appreciable nitrite reading yet .
> 
> -Rick (the armchair aquarist, who needs to go to the LFS and see if he can buy a few "seasoned" bioballs from their central filtration to drop in the back of his HOB filter)


Thanks for the advice! I already cycled the tank with most of my fish in already, all juvies.

I used everything you suggested except I am on a 3-day bacteria cycle. I am on the third day now with fish in the tank doing excellent.

PH is 7.3 and temp is 78 degrees.


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

fox said:


> Lindenhurst, just down the road from us :thumb: And a motorhead, I have a 382 stroked Z06 with a intercooled roots blower and methanhol injection. 575/575 to the pavement
> 
> We have a similar tank to yours, 400 gph will not move enough water for that size tank. We move over 2000gph in ours and still have two spots where poo collects. Look at the Eheim 2262 as well. Our 210 is drilled and we run a sump and a 450 gph can, thats how I know that one can will not be enough.
> 
> There are some excellent powerheads out there by koralia and Tunze that will prolly get the circulation you need in that tank and not bother the fish, you might want to look at them.


Nice car! Our 2003 Lancer Evolution 8 ran a best of 9.06 @ 164mph last season with 917whp on a big billet 67mm on vp import fuel. This season we stepped up to a water-air inter cooler, billet 80mm, dog box tranny, and alcohol for fuel. Going for the world record of 8.42! Check out some of my youtube videos. Just search: DG Motors

I was pondering this thought since the bacteria solution I have been putting in still clouds the tank. I've been told by numerous fish stores that the FX5 will be plenty and will take up to 1-week for the tank to clear out.

If anything, I am thinking about another FX5. I am using bio-balls in the lower two baskets and fluval carbon on top.


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Hanafuda said:


> What a monster of a tank! Is it AGA/Aqueon, Perfecto, or other? Is it new? If AGA, if you don't mind me asking what'd it set you back and where'd you get it? (pm please if you'd rather not post that) I've been thinking a 180 would be the biggest I'd ever go but that extra bit of depth does look nice.
> 
> I tend to agree with fox ... you need more than just the FX5 on that tank if you're keeping big cichlids. Do a lot of research and look into building your own sump/trickle filter to supplement the Fluval. Or you could spend the bucks on another large canister. You want multiple filters anyway ... shouldn't let everything depend on just one machine. Machines fail. Plan for it.
> 
> Here I am just stressing over setting up a 75. You've got me all :drooling: with that 210. Remember to update us when the fish are in.


Yes, this is an Aqueon 210, measuring in at 72X24X29, brand new with their black pine cabinet option.

The tank and stand set me back $1250.00 from Pets Warehouse in Copiague, N.Y 11726. www.Pets-Warehouse.com

Mike is very helpful and if you happen to give them a shout, just tell them Pete with the 210 sent you. I have been there every day for the past 3 weeks.

After everyone telling me with Fluval FX5 will NOT be enough filtration, will a secondary Fluval FX5 be enough or is there cheaper options available? (<$300)

Thank for everyone's help thus far.


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Hey everyone, I worked all weekend long to finish setting up my tank, some decorations, and then finally adding the fish. I am cycling the tank with fish as I felt a fish less cycle would just take too long!

*PH: *7.3-7.5
*Temp:* 78 Degrees
*Ammonia:* 0
*Nitrate:* 5ppm
*Nitrite: *0ppm



























Tiger Oscar and Red Tiger Oscar paired up on the first day!!!









Both Parrots paired up on the first day as well! My yellow parrot turned coloration though, he has patches of black on him although he is lively and eats like a horse. All my other fish are fine in coloration and eat well. Any thoughts on the yellow parrot?









Clown Knife









1 of 2 Fire Eels. I don't see them much unless It's dinner time.









Beautiful Jack Dempsey, she paired up with my male green terror!









My prized Flowerhorn, Vietnamese King Kamfa (3").

All picture were taken off my girlfriends black berry with the water still cloudy from the bacteria solution I have been adding the past 2 days. Going to take better pictures tonight with all the newly added fish I've purchased yesterday.
*
So far I have added:*

Male Flowerhorn: Vietnamese King Kamfa

Male Red Devil: All white with a red tail

Male Green Terror: Showing excellent coloration and is only 2.5"


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Here are a few more pictures including the newbies!









Paired oscars always together









King Kamfa Flowerhorn









Hopefully a male green terror showing his colors early









Red Devil and King Kamfa Flowerhorn

I will have an updated thread primarily for all my fish including their growth and coloration!


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Oscarmeyer321 said:


> Nice car! Our 2003 Lancer Evolution 8 ran a best of 9.06 @ 164mph last season with 917whp on a big billet 67mm on vp import fuel. This season we stepped up to a water-air inter cooler, billet 80mm, dog box tranny, and alcohol for fuel. Going for the world record of 8.42! Check out some of my youtube videos. Just search: DG Motors


Nice fish :thumb:

My best run was 10.3 @ 142 in the 1320' on borrowed drag radials, they told me I was gonna need a cage to run at that track again. :lol:

You might get by with just another cannister, that would get you ~900gph. I would think an HOB AC110 stuffed with filter floss would help out greatly with the mechanical filtering. :thumb:

My thought was that a tank with that footprint, to keep the detritus suspended long enough to let the filters capture it the koralia or tunze might be something to look at. I have pretty much the same tank and you would not believe how little flow under 1000 gph is.


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

I am honestly concerned with the filtration I have (Fluval FX5) NOT being enough after all the comments above.

I was sold on a single Fluval FX5 being plenty of filtration at my lps and asked them numerous times if one large canister filter is/was enough and they all said YES.

My main concern is the cloudiness of the tanks present state due to all of the bacteria I have been adding the past two days. Today is the third and final day I have to add more bacteria to complete the tank cycle so I expect it to stay cloudy, but for how long?

Thanks for everyone's concern.


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

I have two eheim 2217's and a emperor 400 on my 210. I would add an eheim 2262 and ditch the emperor or one of the 2217's if I had the cash.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

I have not owned a fluval so I cannot comment other than to say let everything settle out before purchasing anything. I have seen that cloudiness take a few days to clear up in the past.

You will prolly need more movement and you can do the with powerheads. If you need more mech filtration think about a AC110, very easy to maintain. Another can is prolly a good choice and getting the same make as you now own will keep things simple but I would do that last and only if needed.


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## solgood (Sep 23, 2009)

on my 225 gal. i have 1 fx5 and a 40 sump with 2400 gph turn over. I think you will need more filtration. If i was you i would add 1 more fx5. If you are not stocking the tank full right away you do have some time to add a 2nd filter. Trust me i no how $ it gets setting up a big tank.


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

for some reason i can't see any of the pics, so sad


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## Gunn20 (Jun 19, 2010)

any new updates


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Hey guys I have been pretty busy. These two quotes are taken from my other thread in this section as well. I am currently starting to hit some ammonia and temperature issues as you can see down below.

All my fish are extremely lively, eat well, and full of color.

The tank is also starting to clear up finally. I positioned the "out" on my filter basically in an angle against the back wall to create a current. I must say the tank cleared up pretty much 50% just by doing that. I may hold off on another canister filter and just purchase an external, hang style for now.

If any of you awesome guys can give me some tips or even walk me through this cycle process, I will be extremely thankful.

I will most likely make my decision on added filtration this upcoming Saturday since it will be one full week having the tank up and starting the cycle with fish. Hopefully the tank will just be crystal clear when I wake up one morning 

"Hey everyone, I started a thread a few days ago on my newly setup 210 freshwater aquarium.

I have been using Nutrafin Cycle bacteria the past three days and today was my last day for the cycle.

My testing has indicated the following using API's Freshwater Master Test Kit:

Ammonia: .50

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 10

PH: 7.3-7.5

I am only on day 3 and all fish are full of life and eat well.

I have not done any water changes yet since this was my last day of adding the bacteria cycle.

Should I re-test water in the morning and if the same, perform a 30% water change?

Should I be concerned with my testing as of now?

Any/All help will be greatly appreciated."

"I did a 30% water change about an hour ago. Going to test in the morning and hopefully have some better results.

Basically I am being told to do 25-50% water changes daily until ammonia is NOT present anymore and I have some form of Nitrite?

Time to get a pump or siphon system. Carrying 15 5-Gallon buckets 2x was far from fun and rough on the lower back...

Thanks Guys, I will post results in the morning and hopefully my ammonia levels are down. I fed my fish an hour before the water change so I am crossing my fingers.

I will have my lfs test my water Tomorrow evening and see what they advise me to do..."

Goodnight All.

Edit: Can anyone tell me what is going on with my temperature system? Do I have my thermometers placed correctly in the tank? Should they be in corners, low or high in the tank?

Kind of curious if I am harming my fish. I feel I constantly change the temperature as in the morning my bottom two opposite temp gauges are reading over 82 degrees and my heater is reading 76-78. I am confused...

Thanks.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Keep some Prime on hand to detoxify the nitrItes.

We use the peel and stick on type of thermometer in an out of sight side place up high on our tanks. We also use the hang on type over the top but they need to be altered to fit our tanks and will not work on a 210G. The floaty suction type always get broken on us so we no longer use that type.

I do not go by the heater settings but rather raise or lower according to the thermometer readings. Our tanks are ~82Ã‚Â° w/ out the heat now in a air conditioned room. The longer we leave the lights on the warmer the water in the summer.


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

it is not uncommon for heaters to be a few degrees off

also other factors could be causing it.

check the ambient temp of the room first, if that's 82 or higher then that's probably why the tank is warm, if not, then adjust the heater down a few degrees to see if you can get the tank temp down, it will take a while for that much water to cool off though

if neither of those are the cause, then it's possible that your pumps or lights (or both) are running hot causing a higher temp in your tank


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Thanks guys, I figured 82-84 degrees is ok. I know flowerhorn's like 86+ but I don't want my fish to become edible either 

I will be purchasing a pump/siphon system and will be performing another 30% water change tonight to try and get my ammonia down.

I will also be having my lfs test my water just in-case my test results are off. I accidentally lost my api master fresh water test kit color chart so I've been going off what I found on-line which could have different shades of coloring too.

I will take some updated pics of the tank and the progress we have made as well.

Thanks guys.


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## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

Nice tank! Regarding the frequency of water changes and which dechlorinators to use: I would follow the instructions on the Nutrafin Cycle label. What you've done is add the bacteria it would normally take 6+ weeks to grow. It still needs some ammonia for food, but not too much. I used a similar product with a full grown Oscar http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/One_Only/OneOnly.html. In about a week I had 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and measurable nitrates, which is the Big Goal of cycling. I never even saw any nitrites.

The nitrogen cycle seems baffling at first. Here's the short version: Ammonia is excreted by your fish. It's poisonous. Eventually bacteria arrive and convert it to nitrites, which aren't any better. Finally another type of bacteria sets up shop and converts nitrites into nitrates. Those are like whiskey or cigars. Only safe in small doses. You keep them under control with water changes. On your API chart, the threshold to stay under is 20. "If the test is red, there's trouble ahead." The only time you should see ammonia & nitrites is during the first week or two when your tank is cycling (or month or two if you're doing it old school).

This link has the long version, more than you need to know about the nitrogen cycle: http://www.cichlidmadness.com/forum...8&pid=236960&mode=threaded&start=#entry236960 (Whether or not all bacteria in a bottle is "snake oil" is a matter of much debate. Dr. Tim's isn't.)

- If you run into ammonia/nitrite problems see if it's safe to add more of the bacteria. Typically they have 1-800 help lines. I called Dr. Tim and Tetra. A store owner won't usually know more about these products than the people who make them.

- Yeah, you'll definitely need one of these http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/pic/article.cfm?articleid=848. I have one made by Aqueon.

- Cool link on Flowerhorns http://www.flowerhorncraze.com/index.php?showtopic=43104. I'm tempted by the White Silk.

Your tank is freakin' huge, but be on the lookout for aggression in about 8 months or so. Some of those guys aren't pacifists: the Flowerhorn, Red Devil, and Green Terror in particular. It's not too late to trade them in for 500 Tiger Barbs 

I don't know anything about Knife fish except that I'd name him Mack.


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

well for ammonia, if it's not yellow it's bad, and for nitrite, you want blue, the other colors don't matter, they are bad whatever they are


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## Gunn20 (Jun 19, 2010)

got a picture of the tank


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

I believe I will be solving my filtration issues!

I just purchased:

Two(2) AC110 Filter Setups

Two(2) Kolaria 1400 Powerheads

The 2 AC110's are good for an additional 1,000GPH combined and the 2 Kolaria's will push around an additional 2,800GPH!

Hopefully I can have everything work in conjunction now with my Fluval FX5.

I have a total of 1950GPH which should turn my tank around 9.75 times per hour.

My tank better be crystal clear in the morning with no dead spots!

Hopefully all my juvies can still swim!!!

I will take pics later on when everything is all up and running.

Thanks for everyone's help.


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Ok so I got both AC110's up and running real nice.

I then proceeded to install just one of two HYDOR Koralia Evolution 1400gph powerheads. (Newer Version Of K4)

I honestly can not find one decent spot to put this monster. Anywhere I put it either blows the fish to the other side of the tank or makes a whirlpool current that tilt my plants over and make the fish struggle to swim.

In a nutshell, these are way too powerful for my 210 in my opinion. They surely get the job done and blow water around but makes my aquarium a violently controlled whirlpool. These would be perfect for a 500+ Gallon Aquarium.

Should I give the power heads another shot? I can return the two Hydor Koralia 1400's and downgrade to a simple K2 or K3. To me I think half the GPH will be much better but I am still concerned I am just going to create another toned down whirlpool effect.

Anyone have advice on proper power head mounting? :lol:

Thanks!


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## Bearbear (May 8, 2010)

AC 110's were a great choice, you'll love them.

I use two Hydor Koralia Evolution 750 and just put one on each side of my 6 footer. Current is enough to move the water without creating a whirlpool and still light enough of a current for the fish to play in.
With the 2 AC110's you're water movement should be great with smaller powerheads.

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/p ... atid=21971


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## scottChillberg (Jul 29, 2010)

I love the AC110. In some of my previous tanks I have done multiple 'small' powerheads in my dead areas where unwanted bacteria or waste can thrive (behind the main rock structure, between filter currents, other known dead spots, etc.) This has proven to be effective.

As for controlling ammonia, sometimes letting it build up a little and letting the natural bacteria break it down can be more successful than doing more frequent water changes. 30%, if done often enough, may break down the helpful bacteria, creating cloudiness, disturbances in the bacteria, and an unbalanced ecosystem in your aquarium. Just don't add any fish from the LFS during this time. :thumb:


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Hey everyone! Just wanted to give an update on my 210 gallon tank progress. It took roughly a month to get everything sorted out and actually understand what is going on.

Here is a recent picture of the tank perfectly clear and cycled:










Here are my prized possessions:









5" Male Red Devil









8-9" Male Frontosa (2 Years Old)









5" Male Green Terror

As you can see, everyone is happy now. I added the Male Frontosa to keep aggression down with my red devil and so far so good. I had to add a tank divider to bring my king kamfa flower horn back to health. I then bought a 29 gallon to use as a hospital tank/breeding tank so I don't need to see the ugly divider.

Cheers!


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## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

You have over 500 gallons worth of fish -- from a bioload point of view. When these guys get bigger 210 gallons won't be enough to dilute their waste. Keeping nitrates under 20 will be impossible.

Territory will be a problem too. The FlowerHorn, Devil, GT, BB, & Tex will go ballistic once they hit sexual maturity.


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## Oscarmeyer321 (Jul 23, 2010)

Tiktaalik Owner said:


> You have over 500 gallons worth of fish -- from a bioload point of view. When these guys get bigger 210 gallons won't be enough to dilute their waste. Keeping nitrates under 20 will be impossible.
> 
> Territory will be a problem too. The FlowerHorn, Devil, GT, BB, & Tex will go ballistic once they hit sexual maturity.


I do not plan on keeping all of these fish together when they reach full size.

I am in the process of setting up a 125 right now for my Flower Horn but thanks.


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## aaquale1 (Apr 18, 2009)

Also, The Frontosa is an African Cichlid that is very skittish fish that grows long trailing fins. Having all thoseactive fish that can be territorial can be very detrimental to that Front. Also, all the other fish you have are New world cichlids which can have different requirements than African cichlids.

A 210 gallon tank is huge, but when you add huge fish with huge personalities, it shrinks quick.


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