# Foam filter pads for sump



## markl323 (Feb 28, 2013)

Hello,

I'm setting up a 180G Frontosa tank (with 8 adult fish) and I'm wondering if a Wet/Dry is enough for mechanical filtration. If I put two 4" Poret foam pads (30PPI) in the sump, would that be sufficient?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

It might be sufficient, depending on the size of the wet/dry filter. Can you give us more details on your specific setup?


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

I prefer using micron pads in the drip pan. 100 micron is what I'm using now, and it stops a lot of gunk. A piece of poret on top of the micron pad can be used too but probably isn't necessary. The trick to using a micron pad is not to have it sitting directly on the holes in the drip pan, which will cause it to clog over the holes and make the water pool up and spill over the sides.

Cut the pad larger than the drip pan itself so you can fold it up on the sides and prevent water from flowing over the edge of the pad. Place a few 1/4 inch spacers (something like pvc pipe will do) directly on the drip pan then a piece of eggcrate on top of the spacers. This will let the water flow through the whole pad instead of just over the holes. I have two micron pads pre cut, and swap and clean them weekly. They will catch more than any poret foam can, and keep your bio media completely clean.

The important thing with any filter is to keep the bio media as clean as possible. Having poret in the sump is only going to catch some of the dead bio film as it is sloughed off. Most of that just sits on the bottom of the sump in my setup, and I vacuum it out.


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## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

I have the exact set up you are asking about 180 with 8 Adult Frontosa, and have been running it with just a sump using 2 15" square pieces of 2" poret foam. The foam is set up so that the water from the tank pours over the middle of it, and it has been plenty sufficient to keep the tank pristine. There is no water bypassing the foam.

The sump is consists of 3 chambers, each roughly 15" square, the two end ones have the poret foam over bioballs, and the middle section contains the return pump and heaters. I like this set up so much that I am building the same thing for my 125. FWIW I am using a mag 18 for the return.


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## markl323 (Feb 28, 2013)

Deeda said:


> It might be sufficient, depending on the size of the wet/dry filter. Can you give us more details on your specific setup?


Deeda,

The filter is the CPR 3000 Wet/Dry. It comes with a sump 20" x 12" x 18". This is where I plan to put the two foam pads, back to back.

Overflow box is the Eshopps 1200 (rated 1200GPH and has two U siphon tubes). The external pump is the Water Blaster 7000. I let it run at around 95% capacity and the flow is enough to maintain the flow in 2 siphon tubes so I'm guessing my effective GPH is roughly 1200GPH.

I have the water level low in the sump (around 6") so the Wet/Dry chamber has more air for oxygenating the water.

I plan to have no other type of filtration, unless when I'm out of town for a few days. And I plan to change 50% of water per week.

One immediate disadvantage I can see with this setup is that there is no long intake tubes extracting fish waste near the bottom of the tank. Fish waste must float to the surface and go through the overflow box. And I also avoid stirring up the bottom of the tank due to Frontosa's delicate fertilization method (i.e strong current washes away the sperms). So because of this I try to compensate for the lack of mechanical filtration with 2 pieces foam in the sump.


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## markl323 (Feb 28, 2013)

b3w4r3 said:


> I prefer using micron pads in the drip pan. 100 micron is what I'm using now, and it stops a lot of gunk. A piece of poret on top of the micron pad can be used too but probably isn't necessary. The trick to using a micron pad is not to have it sitting directly on the holes in the drip pan, which will cause it to clog over the holes and make the water pool up and spill over the sides.
> 
> Cut the pad larger than the drip pan itself so you can fold it up on the sides and prevent water from flowing over the edge of the pad. Place a few 1/4 inch spacers (something like pvc pipe will do) directly on the drip pan then a piece of eggcrate on top of the spacers. This will let the water flow through the whole pad instead of just over the holes. I have two micron pads pre cut, and swap and clean them weekly. They will catch more than any poret foam can, and keep your bio media completely clean.
> 
> The important thing with any filter is to keep the bio media as clean as possible. Having poret in the sump is only going to catch some of the dead bio film as it is sloughed off. Most of that just sits on the bottom of the sump in my setup, and I vacuum it out.


Thank you very much for this post. It is right on the money as I had the exact problem you described and had a solution. I used 100 micron filter pad but I made the mistake of placing them directly on top of the drip holes so they clogged after a couple of days, causing a small flood.

This setup is my preferred method because as you said it kept the bio chamber and the rest of the filter free of debris. But since I already ordered the two Poret foams I will put them in the sump anyways. They will help with bio filtration.

Just one question, I guess the purpose of the 1/4" PVC spacers is creating a bigger space between the drip plate and the filter pad so the water will flow through it more freely and there will be less chance of clogging?


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## markl323 (Feb 28, 2013)

nodima said:


> I have the exact set up you are asking about 180 with 8 Adult Frontosa, and have been running it with just a sump using 2 15" square pieces of 2" poret foam. The foam is set up so that the water from the tank pours over the middle of it, and it has been plenty sufficient to keep the tank pristine. There is no water bypassing the foam.
> 
> The sump is consists of 3 chambers, each roughly 15" square, the two end ones have the poret foam over bioballs, and the middle section contains the return pump and heaters. I like this set up so much that I am building the same thing for my 125. FWIW I am using a mag 18 for the return.


nodima,

Thanks! Good to hear these foam pads work well. I was concerned about their effectiveness because I kept hearing that they don't require rinsing often, leading me to think they don't trap as much waste.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

markl323 said:


> Just one question, I guess the purpose of the 1/4" PVC spacers is creating a bigger space between the drip plate and the filter pad so the water will flow through it more freely and there will be less chance of clogging?


The spacers keep the eggcrate from sitting on the bottom and allow the water to flow underneath it unimpaired. If it was sitting right on the bottom water would get trapped in the square holes that are not directly above one of the holes in the drip pan. You can use anything for spacers, but if you use pvc it's best to cut them in 1/4 inch pieces, then cross cut them so they look like the letter C. That way water can't get trapped in them either.

The poret foam is fine in the sump, and as you said it will add additional bio area. I have one piece just sitting in my sump for future tank seeding. It will also help keep the dead bacteria from the bio film from getting returned to the tank by the pump.


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## markl323 (Feb 28, 2013)

b3w4r3 said:


> markl323 said:
> 
> 
> > Just one question, I guess the purpose of the 1/4" PVC spacers is creating a bigger space between the drip plate and the filter pad so the water will flow through it more freely and there will be less chance of clogging?
> ...


that makes perfect sense. great design & thanks for sharing it.


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