# What type of filtration is this?



## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

Subject says it all lol


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

I really mean does anybody have experience with it...


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I don't have experience with using one of these filters and they do require a separate pump to run. Here is a link to the installation instructions and the various models.

You need to determine which model filter you have plus you'll need to check if parts are available for it and which water pump would be required to operate your particular model.

Did you just pick up this filter and want to use it?


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Oh my....
I'm guessing you got this canister filter as part of a package kind of deal thing? Did it come used with that 'steal' 125 gallon tank you were thinking about getting? If so, did it also come packaged together with the water pump needed to make it actually work?
Supposedly, the dedicated Salt & Reef Tank folks, plus a lot of the freshwater High Tech (CO2) 'Planty Types' use these things. The salt guys 'cause of it's inherent simplicity and easy access to the filtration media inside. The 'Planty Types' 'cause this type of filter won't blow their precious ($$$) CO2 out of the water.
The canister itself isn't that expensive to purchase. But then, when you add in the cost of the separate water pump - plus the DIY work, vinvl hose, fittings and PVC stuff you'll need to craft and set up for your intake and spray bar (discharge) fittings? Well, a lot of people aren't completely sure that the thing is worth all of the extra work to make it useful.
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But, if you're a guy who likes to take things apart, make DIY stuff and just basically 'tinker' with things? This simple little canister filter could be your 'jam', I guess.... :roll:


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

It is a different 'steal' lol..

110g tank, going to be used as a temporary home for the jaguars. The aggression is just slowly building and I don't want to wait for it to get bad. It's 48"x24"x24" so not ideal, but I'm thinking maybe it could be a peacock tank after I get my jaguars a 180+. The tank/ stand/ canopy are really nice!

I think it has everything needed, but it was used for salt in the past.

These are some other pictures of the filtration. I thought it was just a sump but maybe it is something in conjunction with the canister?

Story on the tank- older couple had their last clown fish die of old age at 12 years and they don't want to start another tank... I plan on doing some intensive cleaning, but will take any advice on preparing this as well!


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Hello Andy,
you may want to measure out this new 110 gallon aquarium you just got. If this aquarium actually measures out at 24"Wide X 48"Long X 24"High, then your tank is the so-called 150 gallon XH. If this tank measures out at 18 inches Wide - then it is the 110 gallon XH.


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## Stu W2 (Nov 17, 2020)

Auballagh said:


> Hello Andy,
> you may want to measure out this new 110 gallon aquarium you just got. If this aquarium actually measures out at 24"Wide X 48"Long X 24"High, then your tank is the so-called 150 gallon XH. If this tank measures out at 18 inches Wide - then it is the 110 gallon XH.


Hello Auballagh. I've seen you refer to the 24x48x24 as a 150 XH before but to me it comes out at 120 US gallons and the 48x18x24 at 90 gallons. What am I missing?

Regards,
Stu


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

I'll measure when I pick it up on Saturday. Either way, I'm good with it.

Any input on the filtration system I'm looking at though?

Also any necessary steps to clean tank for freshwater from salt?


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## Oscar6 (Aug 4, 2017)

4x2x2 is a pretty common 120g. With a 30 in height it is 150g. Never seen a filter like that, but somehow the name rings a bell?


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

You're right on that one... been a bit since I had those tanks, I had to look it up!. And yes, the 30 inch height made the 150G a so-called, 'XH'.  
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So Andy, what exactly did you get with the canister filter? Does it have a pump, vinyl tubing, PVC fittings... y'know, the works? I mean does the this contraption look like it's ready to just connect everything together, then plug & play?


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Oh, and sorry... you were looking for some advice on cleaning a former saltwater tank?
Well, aesthetically the salt build up and 'crust' on one of those things won't look very nice. But, outside of that, the tank and equipment will be safe to use for freshwater use. I would just scrub everything down with hot tap water and a stiff nylon brush, then allow everything to fully dry in the air. NO SOAP!!! But, if you have some particularly bad, crusty spots you want to clean up? On glass, I've found the best bet is to pre-soak the spot with vinegar (mild acid), then get after it and start scraping with a single edged craft razor. Rinse with freshwater, inspect and repeat!


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

I'm not sure exactly what is going to be with it... it's a nice tank and stand with some big rocks.

The price is good enough that even if I have to toss the filter and buy a new one, I still did really well. At this point, I'm just running out of space at home


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

Picked the tank up today. The sump is A MESS! But it did come with the necessary plumbing and pump for the canister to work.

Now, I just need to clean everything, get it all setup, and run some cycling tests... The former owners had it up for 25 years, so I'm hoping bacteria colonies are good.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

If this was a saltwater aquarium the bacteria is not the same. Plus you don't know what other critters may be in the substrate if you are using it so I would take Auballagh's advice a couple posts up to clean and dry everything out.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

It was a saltwater, but I didn't realize the bacteria was different. I figured it is all performing the same process-

Ammonia -> Nitrite-> Nitrate

I've already cleaned the tank- it wasn't that bad. The sump is a mess though. Do I need to take apart the canister and fully clean it? I was hoping to get my jaguars moved sooner than 6 weeks... that's the only reason I did not plan on scrubbing everything.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I would clean everything, just rinse out any gunk from everything including the canister. I'm not a fan of not cleaning equipment and tanks that I got from someone else.

Once everything is clean you can set up all the equipment to make sure everything is running well and not leaking.

If you absolutely have to move fish to the new tank, hopefully the existing filter on the jaguars tank can be moved over to the 'new' tank so you don't have to do a fishless cycle.


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Concur with all!
And outside of a good bit of scrubbing and 'grunt work', this tank actually sounds like it's almost ready to 'plug & play'!
So, it has a sump, hmmmm? I mean outside of some basic aesthetics - who cares what a sump really looks like? I mean it's tucked down under and inside the cabinet stand for the tank anyway, right? And, after a good round of scrubbin' and muscle work, you could have all of the plumbing parts for this beast ready to connect back up and running again.
So, 'Lock and Load' this thing man, and Git'r Dun! 
- It sounds (and looks like) the canister filter was set up as either part of the discharge system to the tank, or was placed in simple re-circulation mode for the sump. Either way won't matter much, and shouldn't impede getting the sump back online and running again.
- Inspect all plastic parts carefully, esp. PVC fittings and pipe. With age, those things get brittle quicker than you'd think. And, after 25 years? Who knows what condition that stuff is in!
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Whew.... them Jags ain't growing smaller, and neither is the aggression level in that too small tank they're both in now. It's time to convert that former reef tank over to it's new life of freshwater action and non-stop Jaguar Cichlid pair excitement!


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

The jaguars are completely civil to each other... but they attack in tandem! It's crazy... one will get into a confrontation with one of the Oscars, and it only takes about 2 seconds for the other jaguar to come to its mate's aid!

Incredible to watch, but terrifying as well! I love ALL my fish, and I don't want to see any of them hurt.

The canister seems to have been hooked up as part of the return to the main tank, yes. Once I clean it up, I'll take some good pics.


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Yes! Totally, post up some pics! And at this point, geeeeeze... we've all been kind of pulled into this drama with you. Its, 'The Battle of 'Andy vs. The Old Reef Tank'! 
And, none of us wannna miss any of the cool moves and action scenes, 'y'know? :lol:


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

This is my first time dealing with a sump... I think I'm understanding what's going on with it, but can anybody please advise as to whether or not I'm correct?


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Alright! Now we're talking! I'm guessing this tank has a corner overflow, with a drilled bottom? Does it have both intake and discharge holes located on the bottom of the overflow box?
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- First Picture: Yes, that is the intake for the external pump to the canister filter.
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Second Picture: That looks like something a Saltwater Protein Skimmer would use. Did a Protein Skimmer come with the tank set up? It will look similar to this,










These don't work for freshwater aquariums (That's too bad...). Discard and simplify!
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Third Picture: You will need the cover for those bio-balls to slow down water evaporation. How does the water from the aquarium get down to the bio-balls? is there a difuser plate (Plexi or plastic sheet with a lot of holes drilled in it) that sits down on top of the bio-balls? The diffuser plate helps to spread the water evenly over all of the bio-balls, and sometimes has a sheet(s) of filtration foam placed on top of it.
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Fourth Picture: Hopefully you can find that type of flex hose to replace the piece with the tear in it. If not, can you adapt vinyl tubing to that fitting?
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It's looking good Andy! And your sump looks a little 'seasoned', but is not near as bad as some others I've seen pulled out of saltwater setups _(WHEW, GRODIE! BLEHHHHHHH......_)


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

Second picture- no, that line actually went into the sump intake... looks useless, but maybe they had a skimmer before (did not come with one)

Third picture- yes it has the cover and a diffuser plate. I've cleaned the top and the diffuser plate.

I'm sure I'll be able to rig something up, even if I can't find the exact one.

The intake and return do both go into the bottom of the tank, inside the overflow box.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

The above pic looks like the waste foam from the protein skimmer, yucky stuff!

What will you be using for mechanical filtration prior to the bio balls?


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Oh yeah.... the new picture you posted up is this stuff called 'filter floss'. Some people swear by the stuff and love it. I'm not much of a fan...
Here is what I placed on top of my sump diffuser plates,
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Made by 'Pondmaster', for pond filtration systems. It's fairly cheap (There may be others recommending the same kind of stuff in bigger sheets at even cheaper prices.).
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So.... choices. Already?!!! Why, yes! You have what appears to be a single discharge sump system. This is good, and if you are going to ultimately rely on that as your primary (only) filtration for this tank, you will need to pipe the discharge stream towards the surface. Surface agitation will break up a bio-slime layer that can tend to build up on top of the aquarium water. 
Or.....
If you are going to use a HOB filter for this tank in tandem with the sump? Then you will have the surface agitation thing pretty much covered. So, pipe down the discharge stream from the sump to a spray bar set near the bottom of the tank. Place the spray bar on the opposite wall from the corner overflow box. Discharge flow situated low like that will help to blow out detritis and prevent dead spots from forming around any structure items you site on the bottom of this aquarium. That's good. Alternatively, you could just go with a strong air pump and install a linear bubble wand to create a bubble curtain/wall near the back wall of the tank. Those things will break up bio-slime on the aquarium surface water really good also.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

The stuff on that plate seemed to be mold, but I have no idea truthfully.

I'm hoping that using just the sump will be sufficient... I do plan on using aeration bars in the back of the tank. I also plan on using a powerhead to increase surface agitation.

The previous owner had rigged up a pipe to run along the back of the tank (at the top) for the return water to trickle into the tank. You're saying I should pipe that to the bottom of the tank instead?

I also plan on using something very similar to what you recommended. I figured I was going to ask at a later time, but isn't that foam type media more effective than the bioballs? They also had the entire overflow box filled with them...

There is also what seems to be a big foam- sponge type media under the bioballs in the sump.


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Hmmmm.... okay.
They probably had a 'wavemaker' or something set up with power heads to push some current in this reef tank. And, I'm not surprised about all of the foam and bio-balls, etc.... More surface area for bacteria colonization - better filtration!
One of my sumps had bio-balls in it. They work best when used as true 'wet-dry' media. This is also called a 'trickle filter'. Submerged, or fully wet bio-balls well, just don't work so well, unfortunately....
But regardless, I'm not sure that changing things too radically at this point with your filtration media would be a very good idea. If it cleans up okay and is serviceable? Then I would just say it's 'Good-To-Go'! And, don't bother with the details on this too much.
But.....
I'm not really that much of a fan of that trickle bar discharge system. That really is 'old school', and isn't gonna give you what you need in filtration for your Riverine Cichlid type, Apex Predators. Guapote's! You need current in this tank. Water flow! Conditions that promote oxygenation and will help to eliminate dead spots, remove detritus and any 'funk' from the water. 
So, since this is kind of a 'rush job' to set up this tank, you could temporarily go with the trickle discharge bar thing for a bit. Replace it with a low-mounted spray bar discharge system opposite the corner overflow box.
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How-To Make your own DIY, low mounted discharge spray bar:
- Go to Home Depot or Lowes and purchase lengths of Black PVC garden/yard irrigation piping. For your 24" wide tank (??), I would go with a spray bar about 22+ inches long. Drill some small diameter (1/8" inch) holes approximately 2 inches apart on the horizontal spray bar. Measure out and set up your black irrigation piping to mountr opposite the wall of the corner overflow box.
- IMPORTANT!!!! Do not forget to drill a very small (1/16th inch or smaller) anti-siphon hole near the top of the black PVC garden/yard irrigation discharge piping or your low mounted spray bar. You can elect to place the anti-siphon hole on the back of the discharge piping (facing the back wall of the aquarium), or facing into the tank. I strongly recommend drilling the hole in a downward angle, so the discharge flow won't squirt you in the face or get launched across your living room when turning the sump back on.....  
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Sounds like you're on a roll here in the battle with this old reef tank Andy. Keep pulling the sled, man!


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## Stu W2 (Nov 17, 2020)

Hello Andy88,

If you have not yet done so try searching the Net for both images and set up instructions for freshwater sumps. They are much simpler than salt sumps. You Tube has plenty of interesting vids on the topic. Frankly, I'd clean up the tank and sump, ditch that filter and use those bioballs as media in a center chamber. I wouldn't worry about the drip plate as that's for a wet/dry application.

Last major choice is a return pump of suitable flow rate for the head height and drain rate you're dealing with. Submersibles are my preference but if the sump return chamber is drilled for an external one already they are good too.

Hope some of these pics help with a better understanding of what I'm thinking.

Regards,
Stu


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Oh man..... DIY sumps! And yes, those do look pretty righteous 'Stu W2'. 
Hopefully this will give our Andy in the fight here, some good ideas in going forward with this (hint hint....).
But for now? Git'er dun, Andy!!! :wink:


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

In reply to the trickle filter aspect... So would the bioballs in the overflow chamber work well then?

The sump is drilled for external return pump. I'm not sure how many gph that pump is moving yet... haven't gotten to it.

With this ice storm here in Texas, I'm kinda locked down lol. So plenty of time, but no access to stores for supplies. But working on it anyways! I'll have the tank ready to install the hose (once I can get it) and fill up in the next day or two...


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Submerged bio-balls in the overflow box? Ummmm ..... No.
Dooooood, replace those things with filter foam! 
- You'll keep particulate funk from getting into your prime biological filtration area.
- It will be very easy and quick to pull out the pre-filter foam from the overflow, and rinse that stuff out with a bucket in some tank water.

Yep.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

I've never used a tank with overflow... I thought the water would trickle down lol. This is why I'm asking questions!

I like the diagram that Stu posted, I might try to set mine up like that. I'm still debating everything since I have a few extra days I can't avoid with this storm.


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## Stu W2 (Nov 17, 2020)

"In reply to the trickle filter aspect... So would the bioballs in the overflow chamber work well then?"

No, they go in the middle biological section(s) of the sump unless you are using them as a wet/dry (tickle) filter. Filter socks or pads go in the first chamber to decrease solid matter.

As to the water flow rate, the faster your pump returns the water the faster your main tank drains.

All questions are good. Each of us has different strengths. It just happens that I'm familiar with set-ups with steady water turnover and large capacity sumps. That allows for frequent water changes done out of the sump without disturbing the fish and provides a home for heaters.

There are numerous ways to set up your sump. Here is another image that might prove helpful. Don't overthink it. A freshwater sump is basically a twin brother from a different mother to a cannister filter. Water goes in one end, is mechanically filtered then passes into the biological media section, then filtered again and out to the return chamber where it is pumped into the tank. Some sumps will have more than one biological media chamber. Some folks fill them with pot scrubbers. Some with fancy store bought media. Some are set up to move the media around as water passes through. That's a fluidized bed filter. It too as options. It's actually fun to set up if you're that way inclined.

Regards,
Stu


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## Stu W2 (Nov 17, 2020)

Be careful when reading overflow/overflow box/overflow chamber. They are not the same.

Overflow generally refers to the weir and pipe out on a drilled tank.
Overflow box hangs on a tank that is not drilled.
Overflow chamber, or just plain inlet chamber, is where the water first enters the sump.

Never put anything into the hang on the tank overflow box.

All configurations of sump systems are safe to use if you've set them up properly. That includes determining the safe water levels in both the main tank and the sump so that neither exceeds it's maximum volume in case of a power failure or a plug of the overflow from the main tank.

Regards,
Stu


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Tight!
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That is awesome info, 'Stu W2'.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

So it turns out that it seems as though this was setup as a wet dry filter. I'm not 100% positive though. Now that the ice apocalypse is over, I can return to this project!

I finally took everything apart to begin the full cleaning process- which I decided to do after further examination and a good whiff of the sump/wet-dry filter.

All the PVC is good. Bought some hose today to replace the piece that was broken as well as a couple other small lines that were flexible hose.

I have attached a very rough (I'm no artist!) sketch of how I think it will work and pictures of how it was setup while there was still water in it.

I'm slightly concerned that the pump will be moving too much water, but as long as I put enough water in the tank total, that is going to adjust the level of water in the wet dry filter or sump or whatever, correct? Basically I just need the entire intake for the motor to always be completely submerged, so I have to make sure there's enough water to do so?


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

The diagram works for me Andy. And oh man.... actually seeing the picture show what you were saying regarding the condition of that sump. Whew!  
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So, I'm going with Stu on this, and believe you need to simplify this system. In that, I'm just not a fan of that canister filter. Your sump will provide more than enough particulate and biological filtration - you don't need the canister. 
Now, I WOULD definitely save the canister filter! I think you could rig something up in a recirculating kind of system using that canister filter, that would be pretty amazing. But, that could be a project done later for a different tank? I mean you've got that 6 foot long tank coming up sooner than later, right? Setting up a Under Gravel Jet discharge system using that canister and a big inline pump could be pretty tight.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

Yea, it was a mess!!!

As far as the canister goes, I was thinking of using it for now to build up a bacteria colony. In the hopes that when I get my next, 6' long, 180g+ tank, I'll be able to pull that canister over for quicker cycling.

I'll be getting it cleaned and up and running tomorrow- of course I'll share more pics then!


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Sounds good Andy. I like that you're thinking a couple steps ahead on this!
So, what filtration media did you decide to fill the canister filter with? I definitely believe you will need some foam to trap particulate matter. But outside of that, you've got some choices to consider. 
- ALL foam media.
- Combination of foam & matrix rock
The porous matrix rock is recommended because it will grow a larger colony of bacteria than just about anything else (outside of a fluidized bed system). You would almost certainly need to place the matrix rock inside a net/mesh bag to make it useful in that canister filter.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I'm fairly certain that Andy's canister filter takes a pleated cartridge type filter so I don't think he has the option to do what you suggested above.

Which model filter is it Andy?


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

Deeda nailed it on the cartridge. It is a pleated cylinder cartridge, see photo.

I do have some extra ceramic things that I can use somewhere but not sure where to use them.


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Yeah... and, I'm NOT a fan. :? 
It's one thing if you have a swimming pool or something with one of those, and you can just blast it out with a pressurized hose nozzle and tap water. Quite another, if you need to utilize it as part of your biological filtration system. Short of a source of pressurized well water, (no chloramine treatment) I can only imagine the lengths you would have to go in cleaning a pleated filter to maintain the beneficial bacteria colony in it.
- I suspect cleaning the pleated filter regularly wasn't a problem for the reef tank. A mechanical 'water polisher'? The canister was not needed to augment biological filtration, so just blasting it out with tap water and rinsing it in something to neutralize the chloramine was all it required.
Can you fill and stack this canister up Andy, with shaped/cut down sheets of pond filtration foam? Removing stacked layers of pond filtration foam out and squeezing/hand rinsing them regularly in five gallon buckets of tank water, seems like it may be the easiest way to go in cleaning this thing. And, that will maintain the beneficial bacteria established in that foam media.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

That sounds like a solid idea.

Would it be beneficial to create "layers"? Like maybe put some foam, then some ceramic, then some pot scrubbers, then maybe some bioballs? Be gentle if that's moronic!


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

It's all plumbed back up now! Quite a difference from before!

Final steps- clean actual tank then fill with water and cross my fingers!!


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Wow, looks like you've been doing some serious scrubbing there Andy! The sump looks a huge amount better than before.
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As for the canister filter? I suppose you could try layering the stack inside that thing. I wouldn't go 'Full Eheim' levels with that though, and would just simplify the media as much as possible. So, if you have some Matrix rock you can place inside a mesh bag that will spread out enough to completely fill out a distinct layer inside the canister? Then yes, I would definitely go for that as part of your canister filtration media. Reason is, the porous Matrix rock will colonize more bacteria than filtration foam will. 
I would just try using layers of foam top and bottom, with the Matrix rock sandwiched in-between.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

About 5 hours of scrubbing and some minor plumbing repairs later, tank is filled and running.

I have crushed matrix rock on it's way to eventually replace the cartridge filter in the canister, so for now I have the scrubbies in the filter box.

The heaters won't fit in the filter box

>.<

*doh!*


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Pot scrubbies.... :roll: 
Jeeeze man, back in the day we all used cut-down sheets of pond filtration foam for these things. 
I guess now Dat's Old School, yo'. :wink: 
_
Hmmmm... you may seriously want to consider getting an inline heater for this tank. There's different ways to do this, from purchasing a housing for placing a standard submersible heater down in, to full-up units with a heater built-in and everything. Usually placed one the discharge side of the pump supplying the tank, there are various arrangements for these things that I'm sure would work...
Plus: STRONGLY RECOMMMEND you keep submersible electric heaters out of any tank with decent sized Guaptoe's in it. The on-off light almost always starts freaking them out for some reason - and the results are definitely pretty catastrophic.
Best avoided....


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

Did not know that about the heaters... I might be able to fit the heaters under the bio balls. I'm considering switching heaters from my other 125 that are shorter and should fit in the box. Are you saying that would not work either though?

My mom and grandma have been making those scrubbies my whole life! The first time I saw one in a store I about lost it!!!


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

You should be able to place a nice long 250 to 300 watt electric submersible on it's side, down in the space under those bio-balls. 
That's the best way to do it, actually. Placing a heater directly in-line with the sump discharge piping or down in some direct water flow like that, will boost up their heating efficiency in the aquarium a LOT.


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

I'll get it under the bioballs the next time I turn the pump off. Can't wait to get my fish in it!


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

I have the rocks cleaned and in place! I have one but I still need to pick up one more bag of PFS and rinse them both off so I can put that in. Tank is still a good while from being cycled, so no rush.


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## Auballagh (Jan 29, 2003)

Alright! It's looking good.
And.... is that the actual _'TEXAS HOLEY ROCK'_ I see in there underneath some former reef, live rock chunks? If so? Well then ($$$), those rocks do come with a handsome price in these parts. 
Got just a few,
- How noisy is the sump in operation? Sometimes that is the biggest change to adjust to (and problem) with new sump filtration systems.
- You gonna put a background on that tank? The cheapest and possibly best way to do it, would be to just get some black latex paint and a paint roller. Mask it off on the sides with some tape and get after it! :lol: 
- Watch out for the rocks. A pair of big ol' Guapote's just ain't some wimpy little Mbuna. Adult-sized, male Jaguars (Dovii and Haitiensis are known for this also) seem to specialize in pushing some surprisingly heavy rocks around inside aquariums. It's kind of both terrifying and fascinating at the same time to watch when they wedge their heads down under 'em and just start muscling. Whew.... sand, detritus and sometimes even the rocks being lifted and pushed like that, go flying everywhere. They really get into it!  
So before too long, it's gonna be HEAVY, Big Rocks in there. Use bog wood to place structure up higher inside the tank. And be careful of those rock piles....


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## Andy88 (Jan 14, 2021)

The sump is louder than what I expected, but once the canopy goes on, it isn't bad. The motor becomes louder at that point, but it's just a hum.

Yes I'm getting backgrounds lol


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