# Quick question regarding Formaldehyde based treatments...



## Ten Tonne Tomahawk (Apr 24, 2015)

Hi Guys,

I'm new to this forum, but have been around for a long time and have kept Africans for 25 years. I have found it hard to beleive that I haven't known the answer to this question before now, but to be honest, it hasn't come up.
I have an 8x2x2 bachelor tank of Africans. I have a nice mix of Tang and Malawi and I have white spot on 2 of the 3 newest arrivals. (Sadly, the 3rd one, a full sized Red Empress pushing 9 inches, died.) The white spot has been treated with Formalin at the recommended dose and although the other tank mates have displayed many of the sub-effects of white spot to the letter, none have shown any actual white spots thus far. I know all about the life cycle of the virus and I have put a bag of sea salt into the tank and have the temp set at just under 30 degrees celsius, which is around 90 degrees fahrenheit in order to speed up the life cycle. I have dosed using the standard formula. I measured the tank volume in liters by multiplying tank length in centimeters, by tank height, by tank width and divided total by 1000 to give total liters. I subtracted 25% from the total to allow for displacement and it holds approx 650 litres. I dosed at the recommended dose of 1ml per 40 liters. (16ml)
My question (finally) is does the formaldehyde break down over time or does it need to be flushed once the treatment has been endured for 10 days? notwithstanding water changes, where the new water is dosed as per standard procedure, will the formaldehyde break down, and if not, will instating some 'sacrificial' charcoal back into the filter remove it from the water? I'm pretty sure the formaldehyde has disrupted the filter, the water has clouded up a bit since treatment began. I really need to get this organised sooner, rather than later because I'm 6 days in and doing my second water change tonight.

Look, this site appeals to me because I have read some well written articles and the forum responses tend to be well thought out.

Also worthy of note is my location being Australia. Replies may come at odd hours due to time differences.

Thanks in advance for any help.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Running carbon in the filter will remove it. I don't know if it will break down on it's own. If it does, chances are it will take longer than your next scheduled water change.
Note that formalin will cause a false negative while testing for ammonia using a Salicylate (green) test, meaning that there could be ammonia present but the test may not show it. Nessler tests will usually show a high false positive (yellow/brown).
Formalin shouldn't affect ammonia or nitrite oxidizing bacteria. It's possible you're seeing an algae bloom or possibly some heterotrophic bacteria die off from the formalin.
Also, most recommend that treating ich or white spot should involve either raised temperatures and salt OR medications but not both. Raised temperature in addition to medications can cause low oxygen levels.
Hope this helps!


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## Ten Tonne Tomahawk (Apr 24, 2015)

Thanks, I lowered the water level for the duration of the treatment do the filter dumps were on the water line to add an enormous amount more oxygen. The cichlids and catfish look to be recovering, even though only 2 cichlids got spots, the whole tank has suffered the rather severe treatment. I hate white spot, who invented that? 
Thanks for the reply, I have 4 more days before the tank has run for a full 10 days under full treatment, after which time, I'll do a 25% change and lower the temp slowly over a week. I'll also add some bacteria so if the filter is upset with me, it gets a peace offering. (I'll also replace the 2 hiding clown loaches that I forgot all about.....)


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## wortel87 (Apr 15, 2014)

Formalin breaks down on its own. it will gas out of the water.

For ich the combination of formalin, malachite green, methylin blue works far better. Called FMC

And last but not least you should never combine formalin with salt!. And dont raise the temperature if your treating with meds. Meds and heat reduce oxygen.


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## Ten Tonne Tomahawk (Apr 24, 2015)

what does formalin and salt produce?


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## wortel87 (Apr 15, 2014)

you will get salt and formalin 

if im not mistaken it has something to do with the osmotic balance of the fish.

both salt and formalin change this so adding the both of them can give you an adverse effect.


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## wortel87 (Apr 15, 2014)

i would just treat with fmc.

i dont know if the readily available ich meds are based on this but here is the recipe.

1 liter formalin (37-40%)
3.7gr methylin blue
3.7 gr malachite green

dosage 10-12 ml per 1000 liters


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## Ten Tonne Tomahawk (Apr 24, 2015)

I'll certainly bear that mixture in mind for next time, however, I have a skeleton in the tank and I'm not too keen on dying it blue with the Methalin Blue, or Green for that matter.....
It is one of the reasons I went off the coloured cures. As it is, all if the spinal discs that were transparant are now stained light blue....
The tank and it's inhabitants look to be pulling through the whole ordeal, the white spot has dropped off the only remaining 2 fish it was ever visible on. The only side effect I have had so far, besides the unfortunate loss of the Clown loaches, is an incredible spike in Nitrate, which I've offset with a Nitizorb pouch in the canister. 
Fingers crossed, I can move on.


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## wortel87 (Apr 15, 2014)

it could dye your decorations a little bit or it wont.

If it does it will clear up in time.

You could also take the deco out beforehand.

I never had any problems though.


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## Ten Tonne Tomahawk (Apr 24, 2015)

The spinal discs dyed blue 10 years ago and are still as blue as ever.
The Nitrite is back under control, the white spot has left the 2 fish it was on, there's no longer and rubbing or swimming into the filter dump. The water is cloudy, but I feel the formaldehyde may have upset the filter a little, then I upset it more by cracking it open to insert the Nitrizorb pouch.. Will do 20% WC tomorrow on the 10 day mark. Another on the Saturday, I'll also have the full test done and add my salts from there, provided the toxins are clean. I can't climb the KH or GH ladder and I need the PH low while there are Nirtos and Phos in the tank. I'll also back the temp down tomorrow, over a period of 3 days.
Touch wood, I may be out of the woods....


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