# Algae growth



## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

I have 60 gallon cichlid tank and 20 gallon tetra and etc tank. I have been fighting algae for months now. I removed all the rocks and decorations in the cichlid tank and scrubbed all rocks , glass, and vacuumed gravel Saturday. Looked amazing. Now week later and my gravel is already green tint. Not much on glass it all starts towards bottom of tank. Running marineland 350 and beams work led. I have had several aquariums over 20 years and never had so much issues with algae. Only running light for 6 hours as well and not near window. I'm really starting to think it's my tap water. Cause water changes seem to make it worse. Any suggestions? Was thinking ro system but then u have to add minerals back and pH issues. Maybe putting filter on tap water? Please help im lost


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Is the algae green, slimy and sheet like?


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

It's green but not what you would call slimy. It's more like diatoms but green tint. It comes off really easy.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Algae usually does not grow on the substrate too much...more common on the glass and rocks.

Your description did sound like blue-green algae (not really algae at all) which can come off in sheets. The treatment for that is different than other types of algae.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Going to try attach picture


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I can mostly only see the algae below the substrate line. Where it is growing out in the middle of the substrate does it have height? Like fuzzy grass?


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

No fuzz. And honestly it looks a bit better than yesterday. Yesterday the substrate almost all looked green instead of white and black. There is algae patches as well on loower glass near substrate. This is how it kind of starts. From below substrate on glass and if I don't clean it every week or sometimes every couple days it will progressively start looking green farther up glass and on top of rocks. I have 5 nerite snails but they refuse to work until all lights are out. But they don't seem to touch substrate. Cichlids sift through it some.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

I really think it's my tap water. First tanks I've had here and have constant algae issues.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Here is pics of my daughters tank. It has had issues with algae as well but more greenish tinted water. Will get green tint with in a day of changing half water to try to clean it up


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Does your tap water test positive for ammonia or nitrate or phosphate?

What are the test results from your tank water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?

Google cyanobacteria. If that is what you have, treat it with Erythromycin.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

I need to order test kit this week for phosphate. Going to take samples to LFS in meantime of both tap water and tank water. But if tap water is issue not sure what I do to fix that


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Fish are all fine. Don't want to use meds if I don't have to


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

It is not likely tap water...those chemicals are toxins and should not be in drinking water.

The cyanobacteria is not algae...it is bacteria thus the medication. Once it is gone you determine why you were getting it and it never comes back.

The green tint makes me think algae bloom and possibly excess nutrients in the water like nitrates.


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

pitmanr2003 said:


> I have 60 gallon cichlid tank and 20 gallon tetra and etc tank. *I have been fighting algae for months now*.


Why are you fighting it ?


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Because it looks bad. I had 125 gallon cichlid take for 3 years. Never had bit of algae.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

As for the green tint water in the small tank. I had two filters on it at one time for awhile thinking maybe the biowheel wasn't doing good enough job of supplying bacteria to support tank. I'm running aqua clear 50 now on it which I would think is plenty for 20 gallon with 7 small tetras and GLO shark. Been set up for months. I use sea chem prime to treat tap water and north fin food. Only feed once a day and they eat all of it in both tanks. So I guess testing tap water is best start. What can I do if tap water shows bad for. Was strange as well that couple weeks ago some independent company put flyer on doors in our neighborhood for free tap water test. Lol


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Call your water authority.

But we need test results from the tank as well. The bacteria in the filter remove ammonia and nitrite but create nitrate. Excess green in water or in the form of algae suggests too much fertilizer...nitrate.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Thanks guys I will get some water test and see what's up b


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Make sure you test yourself with liquid reagents. Don't let the LFS do your testing.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Yes im ordering the API freshwater kit with liquid regant and API phosphate tester to test tap for phosphates as well. Trying something I read in the meantime for the tetra tank and the green water. Did 20 percent water change. Then keep lights off for 3 days and repeat water change. If comes back repeat. What do you recommend for the bacteria treatment for cyanobacteria in tetra tank


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Erythromycin. It is also sold as Maracyn.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

So I tested my tap water and I have 2ppm phosphate. Not sure if that is bad or good but could be my algae issues


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I would say yes to algae issues. Safe drinking water max is 0.5ppm from what I found.

Maybe some plants? But also talk to your water authority.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

So should I think about getting ro system or maybe run phoso guard? Suggestions please


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Plants. I do not trust chemical filtration.

And your water authority should also do something about your drinking water.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

I honestly don't care for planted tanks and absolutely don't want to go that route. I will however let water authority know but I highly doubt my little voice will matter. But in meantime wouldnt RO be option or phoso guard. Tons of marine setups are doing this


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## awanderingmoose (Aug 11, 2016)

RO can be a pain, and can get expensive. How heavily loaded are you tanks and how often do you feed? Typically most phosphates come from food, if you're starting with 2ppm from tap, your effective phosphates levels are likely much higher. PhosGuard has worked well for me, but it too can get expensive, and with phosphates from tap, you need to get the dosing right around water changes, and might have to swap out after a few days to a maintenance dose for the food load.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

I tested water and this is without doing water change for 2 weeks and it was 2ppm so seems likely that not coming from food or waste. I feed once a day and they eat every bit of it. They are smaller fish only around 2 to 3 inch on average. 60 gallon tank. Around 10 fish.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I thought you said it was 2ppm from the tap?


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## awanderingmoose (Aug 11, 2016)

pitmanr2003 said:


> I tested water and this is without doing water change for 2 weeks and it was 2ppm so seems likely that not coming from food or waste. I feed once a day and they eat every bit of it. They are smaller fish only around 2 to 3 inch on average. 60 gallon tank. Around 10 fish.


Don't discount waste. Test your tap water. If it's low, then you know you're getting the phosphates from the food.

Also, more frequent water changes will definitely help by reducing the nutrients that the algae are consuming, regardless of whether its a phosphate or a nitrate issue.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Sorry must be some confusion.

Tap = 2ppm
Tank = 2ppm as well and this is taking into consideration I haven't done water change in 2 weeks. I would think if source started out at 2 and if I was adding to I phosphate by waste it would be higher. So I'm guessing I'm not over feeding or etc. Doing full tank water test today as well as 20 percent water change and clean algae


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Right, you can't lower phosphate by doing a water change if the replacement water is already at 2ppm. You could use part bottled water. Test it first as well.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

Ok update. Just tested nitrates nitrite and ammonia of tank. Nitrite 0 ammonia 0 and nitrate between 20 and 40 so hard to read. Obviously it was time for water change. I usually don't go 2 weeks but was waiting to test water.

Using bottled water to do 20 percent water change which is 12 gallons seems expensive. Lol. RO set up only like 60 bucks. Not trying to question all answers just trying to weigh all my options. I appreciate everyone's input


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Don't forget the time it takes for RO (factor in your hourly rate) and the cost of the chemicals to reconstitute the RO water before you add it to the tank.

It's an option. I'm thinking you are looking for something to do immediately, and then a long-term solution. Drinking too much fertilizer seems pretty urgent as well.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

I get that. Sorry if im a little sceptical of my local water company taking my 10 dollar API test kit seriously. Im going to let them know but preparing for meantime. I already drink only bottled water or water through my pur water jug. Just not practical for weekly 12 gallons water changes. You know what I mean. I guess I could try gallons of distilled water or etc. Maybe 50 percent tap and 50 percent distilled


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Don't do distilled, you would have to reconstitute that as well. Bottled drinking water. A member once got water at the local municipal location or a self-service car wash.


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## pitmanr2003 (Sep 7, 2012)

That's really good idea. Didn't think of getting some car wash water and test. If it's good would only take couple bucks.


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