# Upgrading to 160g



## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

I am upgrading from a 29 gallon to the 160g I have a couple of questions, when I purchased the 160g from craigslist it was already drilled and bulkheaded, I dont like how they have plumbed the returns and will be redoing the plumbing. Any suggestions would be appreciated for sure raising the height of the intake pipes The previous owner Supplied two cansiter filters (Reaction 4 EFV-45 and EHEIM Proffesional 2) he had used these for the last 5 years with this tank with large Frontosa's so I assume they have adaquate tank cycle capabilites. I was considering going to a sump but was curious as to what size sumps folks are running with 160g tank. My tank is custum built from oceanic and it has a solid top with two large openings for access but as far as running any heaters and such inside the tank it would be difficult. So either inline heaters or a sump is my best bet I was considering running one of the canisters and a sump. any reason as to why I would not want to do this? Here is a picture of the new tank it is a beast, I went to a website that will caculate glass weight and this tank is coming in at a dry weight of 695lbs. 


I have not cleaned the tank up yet but there is no scratches so it should clean up beautiful.
I had to build a new stand which I have completed with the exception of the a couple coats of Poly to protect it. Here of are a few pictures of the stand I built minus the doors and like I said the poly. But both the canapy and the stand where gel stained with American standard JAVA Gel. to match the rest of the cabinets in my house. Here are a few pictures of the stand.



Any comments on the sump/ sump canister combo as well as sump size recommendations would be appreciated. I should have my tank set on the stand whithin the next few days. I have to cordinate four or five friends to come over to lift the beast.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Be careful when you redo the plumbing. As it is right now, it looks like it was designed for use with close loop systems only (like those canisters). It is certainly not sump ready, which would require some work to add some kind of overflow system and a return that has a siphon break above the water line.

If I were dead set on using a sump, I would add a corner overflow around each existing drain, and replace the existing drains with durso (or similar DIY) standpipes. Your best bet would be to plug the holes where the returns are as they are in a very inconvenient location, and plumb the return externally up the back and over the edge. Most sump-ready tanks would drill the return holes inside the corner overflows, as is the case with my currently in storage 125g.The standpipe kit I purchased for my tank included a return pipe that is tall enough to rise above the water level and discharge over the top of the overflow. But that would only be used if you wanted to drill new holes for returns in the bottom of the tank.


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

Rhinox, 
I agree on the what you are saying, I already have plans to raise the drain pipes up so that they are closer to the top, I am plumbing into the system a drain for on the right hand side with a ball valve for water changes. I was going to set that drain height such that I could do 50 percent water changes.

I had been pondering the returns, your right they are in a very odd location and intrusive is putting it midly, I think I will do what you suggest and cut them and cap them. That would greatly aid in my placment of my rocks and such. I was orginally thinking that when the substrait goes in it will be up to the level of the pvc and then I was going to stack the rocks around the returns hiding them. So I will give the returns further thought. I would drill new holes over near the drains but the glass is one inch thick 1/2 inch doubeld up and the tank is deep and does not have an open top so it would be hard to reach.
I was able to get the stand and tank top stained and polyed and the tank placed on the stand this weekend. Not sure if the neighbors will ever fall for that could I get your help for 10 min again. It took five of us to get it up on the stand.


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

Well had a huge set back this past weekend, I had been cycling my tank now for several weeks and Saturday morning I noticed a leak in my lower seal on the front. 
I tried to start draining but the seal let go. basically the front glass acted as a garage door opening up and dumping 160 gallons on the living room floor. The top seal acted as a hinge so the glass is fully intact I was thankful that it did not fall and brea, 1/2glass is pricey in that size.
I lived through every aquarium hobbiest worst nightmare. I was trying to hook into the main drain when it let loose the force of the water shoved me back four feet, I am still in shock.
I think I will forever be afraid of this happening again. Anyone else had this happen? And if so were you able to repair the tank and put it back into service?


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## Aquariguns (Jan 15, 2015)

Sorry to hear about the terrible accident, good thing you didnt get sliced in half with broken glass. I am always leary to trust anything that big that has let go, or wasn't 100%. You have a considerable investment in that setup, hate to say forget about returning it to its former glory. Most players here are untrusting of most used tank over 75 gallons for that reason, the risk of that water blasting out freaks me out! I am sure the tank was ok when you got it and set it up, but not knowing the full history, and depending on your floor and stand, there might have been just a little bit of settling and the seal went if it went off level even a little bit.

It would be worth contacting Oceanic directly to see if they have a suggestion on a possible repair/replace solution.


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## Samadhikash (Jun 16, 2015)

Wow. Scary and disheartening to say the least. Glad you are physically okay.

I've only ever resealed much smaller tank, so I'm at a loss to help you with your cost v benefit analysis on how to move forward. Luckily you still have an intact pane of glass. Your risk tolerance, experience level, and how confident you feel about doing a reseal (or having someone you know you can trust do it) is going to make a big difference.

Good luck with whatever direction you take.


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

Actually the tank had been holding water for over a month, no issues what so ever, I believe what might have caused the weaken seal to let go was the Jabeo 40 wavemaker. I think the pulsing waves did it in. I have good faith in a reseal, this was a custom tank so it is not build like a traditional tank. I will take pictures of it so you can see what I mean. there is alot of surface to silicone to.


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## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

That is so disheartening. After a month, to boot.

I was given a 150 a while back which needed a reseal. Even though it was in my basement, I still could not bring myself to use it. But, a number of years later, I've done some other projects with silicone and I'd sure give it a whirl. Good luck in what ever you decide to do.

How was the damage to the house?


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

Update, There was no damage to the house, luckly I have tile down stairs, and I had recently painted and caulked all my baseboards so the water just spread out across the floor. Was a huge mess to clean but no damage otherwise. 
So I was going to redo just the seal on the front but my wife did not feel comfortable with just that being redone. I did agree with her and I took the tank completely apart and going to rebuild it from scratch. I did not think I was ever going to get that top off. There is so much surface to get cut free it took about eight hours to get the top off. Here are some pictures of the progress thus far. I am hopeful to get the glass cleaned this week and next week get the tank back together and get the week long curing process started.


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

I guess the one good thing about taking the tank apart is I will know the seals are all new and done correctly. I also am taking the time to move the returns from the bottom of the tank to the top. I am thinking off placing the returns in from the top between the access panels. Can anyone think of a good reason I should not do that? I was thinking that it would keep the back glass clear and give me more flexibilty with back grounds.


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## Samadhikash (Jun 16, 2015)

I can't answer your question about the returns. But I agree that doing a complete reseal is the way to go. Other seals may have also been compromised, but the weakest link gave first. Good luck and keep us posted.


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

I also have another question, In the tanks previous configuration it had a mirror behind the glass, which is now in a million pieces. I never liked it being there because it had a spacer of 1/8 inch between the back glass and mirror and over time dust had settled on the mirror as well as the back glass causing it to look hazy. 
But now it is gone and I was wondering what color do most of you guys paint your back glass with? My current tank i painted blue which looks nice but I read painting it black makes the colors really pop on African Cichlids. Any input would be appreciated.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Black looks most natural.


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## Samadhikash (Jun 16, 2015)

I'll toss in another vote for black. Blue reminds me of swimming pools. I have used kind of a dark hunter green on the bottom for bare bottom tanks and was kind of surprised at how much I liked it, but not sure I'd enjoy it as much as a background.


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

Both my tanks are "Black Backed".


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## Tony La Morte (Nov 30, 2011)

Black, only way to go.


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

Thanks, I was leaning towards black already, I finally have the tank completly disassembled and most of the glass cleaned, I am ready to paint the back of the glass which I am going to do before assembly of the tank. Some further updates I had some glass cut to fill the returns and have them installed, As well as redrilled the overflows to accept the correct bulkheads. and have them installed. If only work would allow me to focus more time on getting this Aquarium back together. I want it to set for a week or more empty to allow for the curing of the Silicone. Prior to adding water. I am for sure going to be very generous with the silicone when I rebuild this tank. I do not want a repeat of what happened before. Once in a lifetime is enough. LOL


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

Update on aquarium rebuild, while cleaning the glass in prep for rebuild I had my two sides setting next to each other and one bumped the other and caused a 4 inch crack in the one side. Ordered a new piece of glass for that side.
While I have been waiting went on vaction to the smokey moutains and was able to get 300 pounds of Limestone in various shapes and sizes for my hardscaping. 
I had checked several local stone sales locations that are near me here in N. Texas and no one had limestone so it was going to be a speacial order and I would be at the mercy of what they got. This way I was able to pick it straight from the Quarry and get the pieces I wanted. I am hopeful that my repacement glass will be in today so that I can get my tank back together this week so that it can get to curing. 
A photo of my rocks I aquired. [img][/img]


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## TerryH (Jul 20, 2015)

Well my tank is up and running, all are doing well.


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## knadams (Mar 1, 2015)

gorgeous tank.


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## JimA (Nov 7, 2009)

Looks good!


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