# 4 10g fry tank design



## coonie (May 23, 2011)

is anyone good enough with computers do get me a design for mt 4 10g tanks...i want them one ontop of another with 6 inch space inbetween....all made with 2x4's....if u can do that that'd be a great help for me...thanks


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## Agridion (Sep 8, 2010)

look up Google 3D Sketchup. It takes a while to get use to, but I'm confident that you will be able to design what you are looking for on that. I prefer Solidworks (not free) but that could be because I used to use it for a past job.


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

6" clearance between the top of the 10G and the bottom of the next shelf?


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

Here's a picture of how I would make it:










The actual stand is about 6' tall (I only left a 3" clearance because lights can be hidden within shelves and you only need 3" to maneuver with your arm) but if you did 6" clearance it stands closer to 7' tall. You'll see I also left a little room down under for air pumps and other equipment, 6" tall down there. With tanks on it this bad boy will stand just over 7' tall.


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## coonie (May 23, 2011)

thats exactly what i was thinking...thank u


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## sjnovakovich (Sep 13, 2010)

Hmm. If the stand is 6', then maintaining the top tank is going to be somewhat difficult, isn't it? Why not have it 2 high and 2 wide?


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## dielikemoviestars (Oct 23, 2007)

Even 6" clearance is going to seem pretty tight when you're trying to maneuver equipment/decor/a net. I'd go 2x2 like sjnova recommended.

EDIT: You'll also save money on lighting (if you get lights), as a 4' shoplight is going to be way cheaper than 2x2' aquarium lights.


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## sjnovakovich (Sep 13, 2010)

Another thought just occurred to me. If these are going to be fry tanks, I would think you'd want plenty of room for maintenance since you will be doing a lot more of it on these than you would with adult tanks.


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

And if you are in an apartment, pleae measure your cieling height. Before you cut any wood.

Agreed, if theses are going to be for the poop machines that others call fry, make sure you have room to do what you need to do. Always plan ahead.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

On a different note, there might be ways to cut down the amount of wood needed without getting into anything weak. Depends some on what tools you might have. If you are not tied to 2X4, the legs really don't need to be that strong for this use. It will take some time to draw up a plan but if you are set up to rip 3/4 inch plywood into strips, you could cut the weight and height but still be plenty strong. The thinking is that wood on end is not prone to breaking so if you build the legs from two pieces placed at an angle, it is very strong. Adding a third piece on end under the shelves supports the weight directly on wood and transfers it to the floor.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

A stand like this will give you the strength for ten gallon tanks without the bulk and weight of 2X4. Pieces of 3/4 plywood fastened and glued at an angle with a strip glued inside to support shelves is plenty strong when standing on end. The shelves can be made of 3/4 plywood which is almost strong enough for this but adding a strip under it or on the front and back will keep it from bowing in any way. When the shelves are in place and glued, they will keep the whole rack from tipping if all joints are glued. If you don't want to glue the shelves in, adding square blocks at bottom and top back corners will keep it from "racking".










In this way the height of the shelves can be cut to minimum and still be strong as well as the legs will take up less room but still not bow due to the angle arrangement. Plywood will bow in one direction (front-back)but not at all in the other direction (left-right). Added together at an angle, neither can bow.


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

Good points by Pfunmo and all others. If you have the skill to work with plywood on this do it, it will be way cleaner looking than 2x4s.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

If you take all of the horizontal 2x4s out of King Crabb's design and just have 1/2 inch plywood for each shelf you will gain about a foot of clearance total. Actually the tanks could even sit on 2x4 cleats on the sides, with nothing supporting the middle at all. A much better way to go IMO would be to have 2 tanks per row, with the short side of the tank facing the front. A 20 gallon tank with a divider is more effective than a 2x 10's because it is easier to maintain water quality and you need one filter and one heater.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

*pistolpete*


> If you take all of the horizontal 2x4s out of King Crabb's design and just have 1/2 inch plywood for each shelf you will gain about a foot of clearance total. Actually the tanks could even sit on 2x4 cleats on the sides, with nothing supporting the middle at all. A much better way to go IMO would be to have 2 tanks per row, with the short side of the tank facing the front. A 20 gallon tank with a divider is more effective than a 2x 10's because it is easier to maintain water quality and you need one filter and one heater.


 =D>


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

pistolpete said:


> A 20 gallon tank with a divider is more effective than a 2x 10's because it is easier to maintain water quality and you need one filter and one heater.


This is somewhat true. Depending on the fry size and type, they will care more about footprint. I'm assuming these are all small fry (<1/2") so they should be fine in a 10G or divided 20G long.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

fry do not care about "foot print", adult cichlids do. The primary factors in fry rearing are good water parameters and good feeding.


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

pistolpete said:


> fry do not care about "foot print", adult cichlids do. The primary factors in fry rearing are good water parameters and good feeding.


I've got some 1" fry that would disagree with you on that, could just be the species though (Met. Estherae).


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

I have to agree with King Crab... I've had cichlids smaller than an inch start to get territorial. The more room to get away from targeted aggression, the better IMHO.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

I think ,depending on species, of course,1 inch-we're not talking fry anymore?


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

newforestrob said:


> I think ,depending on species, of course,1 inch-we're not talking fry anymore?


That's technically true, but I'd say anything that can't (not won't) reproduce to be fry. 1.5" is generally around when cichlids can reproduce but usually won't until 2". So by my definition 1" is still fry :thumb:


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

I 'm not sure of that,I would consider them to be juveniles,thats when I move them to grow out tanks


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

For me, I go by action more than size. If they are up to hurting other fish they are not fry to me. Juvies or mean little buggers maybe?


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

They were clamoring to get out of the 10G footprint before 1", I moved them at just a little bit under 1" because I had a new batch coming in. Let me tell you, they are MUCH happier in a 29G; I think that any cichlid appreciates a larger footprint.


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## coonie (May 23, 2011)

so i finally have my fry tank stand built...i will post a video once everything is up and running and all cords n **** are neat.....cost me $23 for the 2x4s lol....i went with a 3 shelf design...bottom holding 2 10g tanks...middle holding another 2 10g tanks....and the very top holding a 30 g tank lol....i will post a video very soon for everyone who helped me out.


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## iwade4fish (Jan 5, 2009)

Mine start early as well when left in a 10,....
...one day there's 34, next it's down to 28, bodies everywhere.
Err on the side of caution


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