# 125 Tank Project



## Demigod

I just picked up a 125 gallon glass tank at a thrift shop for $50! I wasn't planning on having another tank anytime soon, but that's the trouble with those afflicted with MTS. It just happens.

The tank is going to need a ton of work. It's in poor shape, but the problems with it are not structural so I think it will be ok. The glass is good, no cracks or chips, and only a bit of hard water deposits. The frame is in good shape too with only a bit of deposits on the lip and some on the braces. The previous owner added 2 additional braces to the top that need some cleaning too. I think the worst part of restoring the tank will be resealing it. I have no idea if it currently holds water or not, but after taking a look at it I have no choice but to reseal it. It looks as if they gave it to their 5yr old as a weekend project.

I will need to build a stand for it and get it all rigged up with new lights and filter. This is by far the largest tank I've ever owned... my current large tank is a 65g.

So far I have no idea what I'm going to stock it with... I'll figure that part out along the way.

*Project Phases:*


Clean Tank
Reseal Tank
Build Custom Background
Build Custom Wood Stand
Build Custom Wood Hood
Build Sump/Spraybar (haven't decided which yet)
Aquascape
Cycle Tank (probably won't have to)
Stock Tank

This is my project and you're all welcome to follow along.

Here are a few photos to get things started:

Full Tank Shot:









Braces:









Horrible Silicone Job:


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## triscuit

Congrats on the new tank! And I might have seen children handle caulk much more adeptly than whoever did this tank. ;/


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## Iggy Newcastle

Nice find. Looks like they just laid new caulk on top of existing.


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## cichlid-gal

Interesting center pieces to that tank...I have a couple of 125's. Two have one center piece with glass on either side. The other has two braces spaced 1/3rd of the way down the tank, no glass. Yours appears to have two braces each with glass and is that glass in between the two braces? Finding glass tops may be a little more difficult if the sizes of the openings are not standard.

Anyway...I love your plan. Go for it!!!


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## crazywhiteguy

Wow! Has to be the worst caulk job I have ever seen. I look forward to following you progress. Good Luck!


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## B.Roberson

can i say goooooop? OOOOOOOOPpppppssssss ,. too much silicone. but im gonna watch your thread to see what you do. Good luck,and take your time! No rush. Cant wait to see it in progress!


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## ozman

opcorn: :thumb:


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## Demigod

Got the tank inside today and started in on the mess:


























Crossbar:


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## Brentt700

I remember the last 125 gallon I got off of Craig's List was in dire needing of a cleaning and a reseal as well. Remember thinking in my head and worrying about if it was going to hold all of that water adequately and having visions of leaks in my dreams. It was all being overcautious and being a worry-wart too. All turned out awesome and I stocked it with an assortment of twenty two different African cichlids....like one of each genus/species. All got along for the most part, too. That was a great tank. Good luck on the project! I know how exciting the early stages are in setting things up and planning things out.


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## Demigod

I suppose there's no reason to get a discussion going about a few things while I work on the tank.

1. How many fish is a "reasonable" amount to put in this tank? (of Mbuna or Hap/Peacock mix as one option, and Mbuna or Hap/Peacock Male only as a second)

2. I've only ever done things the African way... can someone point me to something eye popping that is not an African tank?

3. Canister/HOB/Sump. Canister only, Canister and HOB, Sump only? FX5? FX5 and HOB? If it was about price, which is better?

4. Are there ready-made plans anywhere for building a stand/hood combo? I want it to look sharp.. stained, varnished...

5. Lighting options? 36" x 2? I'm a real DIY buff.. putting something together from scratch is no problem. 
Anyone ever try using something like these? I was thinking 2 of them could go back and forth inside the hood 5.6 times... for $50. I realize they're not "extremely" bright, but enhanced with a couple 36" T8 units... it might be quite nice.That's 600 LEDs... and 2 T8's.

I suppose that's enough questions for one night. I have all of the old silicone removed now. I just need to do the "fine" work and get it 100% completely scraped off. I also got an insurance check issued to me today for my motorcycle that was stolen a few weeks ago (Thank you Progressive! Covered me at 2x blue book value!) , so I will have other things taking my time... but rest assured, this will get done.


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## Brentt700

I would do both an FX5 and an Aquaclear 110. That would be a great combo and neither are that spendy if you buy them online through the right place. You could look into South and Central American cichlids but they usually get 8 to 12" big so that limits you to how many you can have versus Africans which get usually around 6" or so big and you can crowd the Africans with good maintenance and filtration to curb aggression versus SA and CA cichlids which that formula doesn't quite work the same. If I had a 125 gallon tank though, I would be running two canisters and an HOB filter for as much filtration as I could get, personally. You want to be preferably turning 8 to 10 times the tank volume over per hour. That equates to needing around 1000gph minimum for 8 times per hour. I would get that FX5 as well as maybe an Eheim Pro 3 2075 you could use for a whopper of a biological filter set-up (has four 1.5 liter baskets for media) and costs only $206 through Ken's Fish....a sponsor on this website. Then adding the Aquaclear 110 gives you 500gph along with the 330gph from the Eheim Pro 3 2075. Then...with the FX5, you should be upwards towards 10 times turnover rate. Trust me....being at a higher rate is a good thing. I have previously ran lower rates and have started running excessively high rates (I run 20 times per hour on my 75 gallon tank) and can see a huge difference in maintenance schedules as well as the main thing..the health of the fish and the quality and conditions of the water. I have kept a journal/log book of information of testings and sidenotes for close to two years on this tank and through it's break in period. This tank is healthier than any of my tanks have been and I attribute it to the filtration mostly. Anyways...something to think about for you.


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## Bowfront

I'm speechless at their caulking job. I would have ran away from that tank within seconds and never looked back.


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## Demigod

Not one to pass up a cheap DIY option for anything I decided to try out the strip SMD lighting option. If it doesn't work well I'm only out $60 and I can use them for something else.

I picked up 2 of these: 5M 5050 SMD RGB LED Strip 300 LED Waterproof+44keys IR Remote Controller+Adapter

After some research I found that the "Pure White" setting is 6000K-6500K. As well, the Blue color and the option to dim the lights will work perfect for a moonlight setting.

Putting 600 LEDs on the tank has got be enough light.


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## Demigod

I also found another thread with examples of this lighting on an aquarium:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=256753


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## Demigod

Finished removing the old silicone tonight. I need to pick up some isopropyl alcohol tomorrow to do the fine cleaning but I should be masked and ready for new silicone tomorrow night.


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## Iggy Newcastle

Bravo! That must have been a nightmare...


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## Demigod

Indeed it was! It's likely to be just as painful to tape it up and silicone it. It's heavy, on a table, my arms are only so long... and I'm by myself.. but I'll get it done.


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## ozman

good job on your tank. you obviouly have a plan that your going to achieve, no doubt about that.

great stuff, i'm looking forward to your finished tank with fish. please keep the pics coming.  :thumb:


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## ratbones86

Ill be watching this thread. Good work so far fixing the retarded seal job someone did lol.


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## Demigod

My friends and I have an annual party we throw each year... It starts in about an hour and I won't be back home until mid day tomorrow so don't expect much outta me when I get home!


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## Iggy Newcastle

Demigod said:


> My friends and I have an annual party we throw each year... It starts in about an hour and I won't be back home until mid day tomorrow so don't expect much outta me when I get home!


Sounds like me today... just a complete waste of a day


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## B.Roberson

!
I know !! I'm sick of it too! I had to repaint molding and restain deck railings, and stain the roof eves of a new roof over my deck..... \

It takes time out of my fish tanks which is sinfull. Dont you think?


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## ozman

B.Roberson said:


> !
> I know !! I'm sick of it too! I had to repaint molding and restain deck railings, and stain the roof eves of a new roof over my deck..... \
> 
> It takes time out of my fish tanks which is sinfull. Dont you think?


darn right it is :roll: it just ain't fair


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## Demigod

<sidenote>
No matter how well you know them, no matter what they say, always question free brownies, and never ever eat the whole thing.
</sidenote>

Might be a few days before I feel like working this. We'll see.


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## Demigod

In what seems like the quickest eBay shipping in all of history, my lighting arrived today.










I'm going to go test it out compared to a single T8 unit.


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## Demigod

So here are the side by side results of 1 SMD/LED unit compared to 1 standard T8 unit.

T8 on the left, LED on the right:


















LEDs:









T8:









The LEDs give off a lot more red, but the white seems whiter and the colors of the rocks seem brighter compared to the T8. I think I might need to put this on an actual tank and see what it looks like.


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## Demigod

Full Tank (T8 Left, LED Right:









T8:









LED:









Night Mode (Blue w/lowest dimmer setting):


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## ratbones86

I persionally like the led better. kool thing about he rbg's is you can adjust the light how you want it.


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## cichlid-gal

Demigod said:


> Full Tank (T8 Left, LED Right:
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like both in their own way. The LED's cast a lot more blue in color and sharper color. The T8's seem warmer. Nice tank layout too.


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## Demigod

Thanks. That's my 45 long with my Blue X Red zebras, Mbumba, and C. Lions. I had tons more rock in there until the other night.. decided to pull it all out so they couldn't just hide all the time. How it's easy to see them even when they think they're in a "cave".


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## ceeloTANKS

Hmm I may look into those lights as well.

Ill be watching your updates closely as I am also restoring a big tank as well


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## shelbynjakesdad

What kind of bulbs are in your T8 unit? I was using two 6500K bulbs from Lowes and they were way too GREEN, kind of like your photos. Just changing one of them out for a 50/50 made a world of difference. I'm contemplating changing out the other 6500K for something else as well. I think with fluorescent tube lights the bulb you use makes a huge difference.


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## Demigod

I have no idea what kind of bulbs they are. They came in the units a few months ago when I bought them. It was your basic Aqueon 24" strip light.


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## Demigod

Having recovered from last weekends mistakes I'm getting around to the taping now:




























It's odd how the photos make the vertical tape look uneven, but they are in fact even at just under a half inch.

I'll probably get that finished up in the next few hours and if I'm feeling up to it I'll get the new silicone put on. Today was the last day of school for my son, and he's having a friend stay the night, so we'll see how much "free" time I have.


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## cichlid-gal

I was just reading another thread in another forum I am in about doing the re-silicon thing. One commentor spoke to the fact that when you tape the tank and then silicone it, if the silicon dries quickly when you pull the tape you can create small fissures in the silicon or rather open them up? They had a lot of trouble after doing the taping thing. Many recommended just applying the silicon and smoothing and removing with your finger. I have never done this so no personal experience. I'm sure others can comment. Also, that same thread mentioned excess silicone and cutting it away...same problem...fissures and potential leaks. Let us know how it goes.


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## Demigod

I've done a fair amount of searching on how to do this and I've never read that before. I don't think it will be a problem though as I plan on having someone help by going behind me and smoothing out the silicone for me and then when I'm done putting the silicone on I'll go behind him and remove the tape... should only take about 5-10 minutes to complete the tank.


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## Bowfront

Demigod said:


> In what seems like the quickest eBay shipping in all of history, my lighting arrived today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go test it out compared to a single T8 unit.


One thing I don't know a lot about is custom LED lighting. I feel like a newb but what do all those buttons do on the remote controls? Do they allow for endless adjustment of the lighting colors or do you have to add more colored strips to be able to use those functions on the controller? Could you explain the remote a little? Thanks.
.


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## Demigod

The LEDs on the strips are RGB LEDs meaning they are Red, Green and Blue (and white). I can use the remote to change the color of the LED to anything I want as well as create custom colors by manually adjusting the R, G or B levels and then save them as a custom color. There is a Flash (or strobe) and Fade mode if I wanted to create a cycling color and I can turn up the brightness or turn it down low.

For the most part, in this application, I'll probably just use the white(s) and blue(s). I haven't tested hooking them both to a single controller yet but I'm sure I can.


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## k7gixxerguy

Demigod said:


> I've done a fair amount of searching on how to do this and I've never read that before. I don't think it will be a problem though as I plan on having someone help by going behind me and smoothing out the silicone for me and then when I'm done putting the silicone on I'll go behind him and remove the tape... should only take about 5-10 minutes to complete the tank.


When I built my 67, I used tape to make super nice neat factory looking fillets in the sillicone. Well, six months later my tank slowly leaked out over the first weekend that noone was in our house during that time. My luck I guess. I lost all of my fish except for the synos that were face buried in the shells in the substrate barely alive. There was no sign of lifted silicone or anything and I was able to fill the tank up and see where it was slowly leaking from. The only explanation that we could come up with was that some people have reported that some painters or masking tapes adhesives may react with the silicone and sortof flow through it and make a weakened area. I stripped the silicone and resealed it without the tape method but otherwise the same way and its never had an issue since. I know there will be tons of people that state that they used tape and had no issues, I wont do it again though. Yes, I did remove it immediately after finishing smoothing too, didnt wait for it to dry or skin up in the slightest.


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## Demigod

I'm sure there are cases of tanks leaking, perhaps some of them even have something to do with the tape, but I think the vast majority of tanks refurbished in this manner are just fine. I'll do one more round of searching on this subject, make a decision on it, and move on.


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## Frank H

Bravo! Keep the updates coming. I appreciate the LED info and link.


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## ozman

personally having used silicone tons of times in jobs, i would caulk and have a small bowl of water handy then dip your finger and smooth it out removing excess of your finger to a rag.
in the jobs though it was just spit, same, same.


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## Demigod

How long does it take for the silicone to start drying? How long do I have once it leaves the tube before I'm in the danger zone as far as removing the tape is concerned?


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## Mr2Good

i like the tank!! it looks great man ... i personally us t5 duel fixture bulbs... 1 6700k and 1 18000k and it gives the best natural lookin lighting.. not to blue and not yellow... i luv the led look but before u decide i suggest maybe tryin some diff bulbs...

best of luck man

just showing u an example of my lighting ..


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## cichlid-gal

Demigod said:


> How long does it take for the silicone to start drying? How long do I have once it leaves the tube before I'm in the danger zone as far as removing the tape is concerned?


The post I saw said that the silicone starts to skin right away. Again, no personal experience.


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## Frank H

Depends on what temperature, moisture in the air, brand silicone, all sorts of things, but its safe to say you have a good 3 minutes before you get any kind of skin. Most likely more than 5 tho.


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## Demigod

I finished the last of the scraping and taping tonight. I can't stand letting a tank get low on water... let alone letting it get 2-3" low on water for an extended period of time. It gets noisy and RUINS THE TANK. IMO. I hate water deposits. They're an eye sore and such a PITA to remove. Anyway, I have that done now. In light of the possibility that I have only 3-5 minutes before the silicone begins to dry I will go with my original plan of having a friend help me... I was going to just "do it" and get it done, but the idea of having to remove it all again if I mess it up is just too much to ignore. If I can get someone to help this weekend I'll get it done. If not I'll have to wait for my best friend to get back from annual National Guard training next weekend. If I have to wait I might just get started on the stand.

I have about Zero tools for wood working so I'll have to go pick those up. Do you think a table saw would be best, or would a circular saw do the job ok? I have some other pressing household jobs to do as well that I'll need tools for so I might as well just go for broke and get what I need. Table Saw, Jig Saw, New Drill, Mitre Saw.

Can anyone point me to a set of plans for a stand that includes a complete materials list? I can build it.. but planning it out.. and making a materials list.. seems overwhelming. I'm looking to build a stand with at least 2 doors, maybe 3. Big enough to house an FX5 under it, enclosed, with trim, stainable, with a matching hood to contain the lights.

All of this in the face of seeing an affordable 150 gallon tank on CL with a new canister and a oak stand... seems like a lot of work.


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## ozman

when you start to caulk your silicone i would suggest a 4mm cut in your nozzle. you will be suprised how much it will spread once you wet your finger to push and spread.
not trying to be a smart arse but wet your finger every time after wiping excess to a rag. you'll feel it starting to stick to your finger when you need more spit/water on your finger, or else you will have it stuck to you and make a mess of the job at hand :thumb:


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## cichlid-gal

Demigod said:


> Can anyone point me to a set of plans for a stand that includes a complete materials list? I can build it.. but planning it out.. and making a materials list.. seems overwhelming. I'm looking to build a stand with at least 2 doors, maybe 3. Big enough to house an FX5 under it, enclosed, with trim, stainable, with a matching hood to contain the lights.


My husband just built two 125G stands...both very similar in appearance but we used hardwood flooring to skin the stands instead of stainable sheeting materials. I can ask him to put together a materials list. Each stand has 2 doors, one houses an Eheim 2080 and the other is built to house an Eheim 2260 so its taller. I think an FX5 would fit in the shorter stand. We did not make hoods.

Stand #1









Stand #2 (prepping ... painting back, measuring filter stuff and putting on trim)









Stand #2 (in house...no doors .... what's new....but this time they will match...LOL )


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## cichlid-gal

*125G Stand Materials List*


approx *12* 2x4 8ft
*1 *sheet 3/4" plywood for bottom and top (if using)
*2 *boxes click lock hardwood flooring of your choice (some will be leftover)
*1 each* 12 foot 1" and 1/2" corner trim
wood glue
*small box* 1 1/2 inch wood screws
*small box *1 inch wood screws for top and bottom
*small box* finishing nails for trim

*Tools used:*

Table saw
Miter saw
Drills & pockethole jig
clamps
hammer for trim


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## Demigod

Excellent! Thanks Cichlid-Gal! I love the hardwood flooring idea.


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## Demigod

Fathers Day weekend is a great time to buy tools. 

Picked up just about everything I need except the miter saw... the one I wanted with a lifetime in-store warranty won't be in stock until next Friday. Free Milwakee battery with purchase... so 2 lithium batteries!


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## Wilson33

Good luck on your stand. It looks like you have everything you need. I am in the process of making a stand, too. I have the frame built and have 2 tanks that have been filled with water sitting on it for two days now in the garage. It has already been sanded all the way to 220 grit, so I will need to stain it next. I used deck screws and a waterproof wood glue (Titebond 3.)

Sanding the 3 levels to make sure that they are totally level and flat took longer than building the frame, lol!


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## Demigod

That reminds me... if I don't go the flooring route I need to pick up a sander. Thanks!


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## Wilson33

I have a cheap one that did well for me ($20.) I also had to sand by hand in the tight areas. I went from 60 grit, to 100 grit, to 180 grit, and lastly 220 grit.


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## Wilson33

I am sorry, but I forgot. I would still sand the frame and at least coat it with something to protect it from water. You don't need to stain it, a good paint will work.


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## Demigod

Wilson33 said:


> I am sorry, but I forgot. I would still sand the frame and at least coat it with something to protect it from water. You don't need to stain it, a good paint will work.


Planned on it. Thanks!


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## anthraxx4200

personally i went with a prettier plywood for the tops and sides (its like 4-5$ more for a much nicer looking grain and they'll rip it for you most of the time too) as for the front i found a knotty pine that looks awesome stained a darker color. all in all materials were like 60$ for all the cosmetic BS. i started with a pre-existing frame that somebody wrapped in ugly plywood.


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## Demigod

So let's start the stocking discussion.

I have no set plans for the stock in this tank. I do however see 3 different setups being the most likely. All male Hap/Peacock, Mixed Mbuna Species, Tangs and Shellies.

The Tang tank has my interest at the moment... so let's explore what's possible for that one. Is it possible to have 2 species of shell dwellers on either end of the tank as well as much larger colorful fish? ARE there larger colorful Tangs? Can anyone point me to something like this in a tank my size? My search efforts fall short with the limited searching capability on this site (I hate the custom search.. how can you search just one forum???).


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## Demigod

And I think that about does it for the tools. I have some stairs to build today and I'm still waiting for my buddy to get here to help with the silicone... but I'll start the stand build sometime this coming week.


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## Demigod

So having no response on the stocking question I've done my own research and decided that I'll probably be happiest with an all male Hap/Peacock mix. There are 1000 threads out there for stocking questions but each one seems to be somewhat unique to the tank, dealer, owner, whatever.... so rather than picking my list and trying to figure out compatibility by reading the other threads, I'll just start another list and we'll figure it out here.

Here's what I have so far:

x3-5 - Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei" (Msuli) (Breeding group)
x1 - Nimbochromis venustus
x1 - Protomelas sp. "Steveni Taiwan" Taiwanee Reef
x1 - Sciaenochromis fryeri "Electric Blue"
x1 - Protomelas taeniolatus Namalenje "Red Empress"
x1 - Aulonocara stuartgranti Usisya "Flavescent"
x1 - Aulonocara stuartgranti Lundu
x1 - Aulonocara kandeense Kande Island "Blue Orchid"
x1 - Aulonocara jacobfreibergi Undo "Lemon Jake"
x1 - Aulonocara jacobfreibergi Otter Point
x1 - Aulonocara gertrudae Lupingu "Orange Collar"


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## k7gixxerguy

You will probably have issues with the two jakes from what I have seen thus far trying to figure out a stock list for my 125. I have my mbuna in there at the moment.


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## Demigod

2 Jakes? Is there one of those species that has a name I didnt list that is also a Jake?


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## k7gixxerguy

The two jacobfreibergis


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## Demigod

Ahhh... got it. Thanks.

How about adding a Dragons Blood to the list??


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## amcvettec

I think the Otter Point may be different enough to not have an issue between the two. All-male tanks are always hit or miss. What works in some tanks may not work in others.

If I remember correctly, Aulonacara kandeense may be too timid and may not color up.

Have you considered a Placidochromis Electra (Deep Water Hap)? Also Otopharynx Lithobates? Or Albino Eureka Red?

Dragonsblood are a little more aggressive because of their hybrid nature. I've kept a few with mbuna. It could work though.


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## Demigod

amcvettec said:


> I think the Otter Point may be different enough to not have an issue between the two. All-male tanks are always hit or miss. What works in some tanks may not work in others.
> 
> If I remember correctly, Aulonacara kandeense may be too timid and may not color up.
> 
> Have you considered a Placidochromis Electra (Deep Water Hap)? Also Otopharynx Lithobates? Or Albino Eureka Red?
> 
> Dragonsblood are a little more aggressive because of their hybrid nature. I've kept a few with mbuna. It could work though.


I started the list by looking at a dealers website and going with the peacocks/haps that were sexed already. I'll look those ones up and see what I think.


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## Demigod

Both of those are available as males. Updated list:

x3-5 - Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei" (Msuli) (Breeding group)
x1 - Nimbochromis venustus
x1 - Protomelas sp. "Steveni Taiwan" Taiwanee Reef
x1 - Sciaenochromis fryeri "Electric Blue"
x1 - Protomelas taeniolatus Namalenje "Red Empress"
x1 - Aulonocara stuartgranti Usisya "Flavescent"
x1 - Aulonocara stuartgranti Lundu
x1 - Aulonocara kandeense Kande Island "Blue Orchid"
x1 - Aulonocara jacobfreibergi Undo "Lemon Jake"
x1 - Aulonocara gertrudae Lupingu "Orange Collar"

New to the list:
x1 - Placidochromis electra Likoma ''Deep Water''
x1 - Otopharynx lithobates Domwe Island ''Red Top''
x1 - Aulonocara	maylandi "Sulferhead"

That's about 16 fish so far IF this list were to work... and about $700! These fish range from 2" to 5" also... not sure if that's a problem or not. Some are Wild, some are F1/F2 as well.


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## Demigod

Would there be a better choice between a German Red or a Eureka Red? (non-albino)


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## crazywhiteguy

Have you worked on the LED setup? I am interested how it turned out. I would like to do something custom like that for my tank.


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## Demigod

As a matter of fact I was playing with it last night and installed one of the strips on my 45g to run it for a few days. I'm not sure it will be good enough by itself. I ran it lengthwise along the glass top, back and forth 4 times, and secured it with some tape. It looks REALLY good, but it will need to have at least 1 strip of T8/5 to go with it to satisfy my needs. Running in tandem with the T8's I have it adds some really nice effects. I'll snap some picks later tonight if I can.


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## crazywhiteguy

Nice. Ill be standing by I am going to try to make something up for my 40gal. Just not quite sure how yet.


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## Demigod

I temporarily installed the lights on my 45g and took a video.

Here are the results:


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## Demigod

My buddy should be available in the next day or two so we can get the silicone done and get moving along with this project.

Picked up the 2x4s to get the tank stand going:


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## crazywhiteguy

they are really cool. you set up the LEDs in a fixture with your existing T8s. I am going to try to make a custom fixture of some sort for my 40 gal to just run the LEDs by them selves. definitely going to get two rolls lights when I am ready to do it.


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## ratbones86

Good luck finding the electra. I tried and couldn't.


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## Demigod

Both my main online dealers have them in stock. Dave's has 6-7" males for $59, 4" for $45, 3-4" females for $19, and unsexed for $8. My other dealer, a Portland based shop, has 1.5" for $7 or 6 for $30.


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## Demigod

The stand is coming together nicely:

Frame & Legs:









Legs:


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## Demigod

The frame of the stand is almost complete. I just have 2 more cross braces to install.




























The photo above shows the bottom of the stand where I'll have 3 cross braces for securing the inside floor and to support the FX5 without cracking it. The top sheet and the inside sheet will be 1/4" treated underlayment, which the tank is currently sitting on.

I picked up some 1/4" oak panels to skin it with which you can see in the background.

Question: Is it normal practice when building furniture to have the wood grains running vertical?


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## Demigod

Having no "real" plans do go by for this build I'm looking at the photos now and seeing that I have a lot more to do. There needs to be a lot more vertical bracing for the paneling to attach to. I also have 2 more vertical braces for the center... are they really needed for support since the weight will all be on the corners?


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## cichlid-gal

cichlid-gal said:


> Stand #2 (prepping ... painting back, measuring filter stuff and putting on trim)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stand #2 (in house...no doors .... what's new....but this time they will match...LOL )


Demigod:

On the stands my husband built he did the center bracing as we have two doors on the stands (you can see the framing from the back in pic of Stand #2 prepping and then you can see how he "skinned" it with the flooring in pic of Stand #2 in house). He will build doors that are attached to a box frame which fits inside or right on the door openings.

If you are doing three doors your bracing on the front run of the stand would reflect where your doors are being placed as you need something for your doors to "set" against. Does that make sense?

As for whether the bracing is necessary for weight reasons...I'm not sure. I would think so as 6' is a long run. I know on acrylic tanks they can sag if not supported across the bottom. Glass doesn't sag so again, not sure.


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## Demigod

Got another support or two put in place and the top cut out. One more support and the inside floor to go and then onto the outside detail work.


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## lilscoots

Looks good, if you're going to have 3 doors, you'll likely need some uprights in the front to hinge them on. To answer a couple of questions, yes, typically grain is run vertically in furniture which means, you'll have a joint somewhere, I'd suggest it be in the middle of the center door and to "scarf" it (wooden boat building joint). that may be difficult unless you have access to a router or a belt sander.
As far as stocking goes it seems alright, the dragonsblood is really hit or miss, the blue orchid will not work as it's too timid for the others you have. I'll look at the rest a bit closer tomorrow...


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## clhinds78

Your setup is really coming along. Can't wait for the finished tank. I think a hap/peacock mbuna setup was the right choice!

I have one of the aqueon strip lights too and the bulb that came with it was terrable. I replaced it with full spectrum corallife bulb and it made all the difference. I think your idea of using the LEDs and the t8's is a good one, just be sure to get some quality t8 bulbs.


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## Demigod

lilscoots said:


> Looks good, if you're going to have 3 doors, you'll likely need some uprights in the front to hinge them on. To answer a couple of questions, yes, typically grain is run vertically in furniture which means, you'll have a joint somewhere, I'd suggest it be in the middle of the center door and to "scarf" it (wooden boat building joint). that may be difficult unless you have access to a router or a belt sander.
> As far as stocking goes it seems alright, the dragonsblood is really hit or miss, the blue orchid will not work as it's too timid for the others you have. I'll look at the rest a bit closer tomorrow...


Thanks. I have 3 uprights in the front. The photo currently shows the back where I'm going to put 1 more support in the center.

I'm not sure I'm up to the task of cutting it in half and using 2 panels on the front. If I did that my only option would probably be some kind of decorative strip running up the middle to conceal the split, which my not be too difficult. I don't have a router or a belt sander... or any woodworking skills to speak of. I am, however, proud of the fact that EVERY angle on this thing so far is at least 89 degrees if not 90. That's a first for me. I suppose it helps in buying all new quality tools to do the job.. which I suppose COULD involve buying a router, but then the woodworking skills come into play and I have to throw the towel in. I get most of my good ideas while I'm not working on the project so I'll think about it for awhile.

Is there another hap/peacock that is black and white like the blue orchid that would work?


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## Demigod

clhinds78 said:


> Your setup is really coming along. Can't wait for the finished tank. I think a hap/peacock mbuna setup was the right choice!
> 
> I have one of the aqueon strip lights too and the bulb that came with it was terrable. I replaced it with full spectrum corallife bulb and it made all the difference. I think your idea of using the LEDs and the t8's is a good one, just be sure to get some quality t8 bulbs.


I'm considering buying three of these 24" T5 HO fixtures. They chain together so I'll only have 1 plug, and they can fit under the front of the canopy with the LEDs in the back. I will probably at the very least get 3 of these and try them out.. and return them if they aren't bright enough. I can get 3 of them for $75 total which is pretty good considering my current dual T5 HO 30" strip cost me about the same.


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## Demigod

cichlid-gal said:


> If you are doing three doors your bracing on the front run of the stand would reflect where your doors are being placed as you need something for your doors to "set" against. Does that make sense?
> 
> As for whether the bracing is necessary for weight reasons...I'm not sure. I would think so as 6' is a long run. I know on acrylic tanks they can sag if not supported across the bottom. Glass doesn't sag so again, not sure.


I am doing 3 doors. Likely a large door on the left/right with a split door in the center. That would work better with the idea of having to split the sheeting in half to get the grain going vertical... and I had planned on using the cutouts from the oak sheeting as the backing for the doors so the grains match. One more vertical support to go and I'm ready for the detail work.


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## lilscoots

Not black and white that I can think of, there's Copadichromis trewavasae that's black with blue blaze, and S. fryeri that's blue with white blaze...I too wish the blue orchid wasn't so shy. This may be as close as you'll get Copadichromis sp. mloto undu "ivory head mloto" http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/species.php?id=1448


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## Demigod

lilscoots said:


> Not black and white that I can think of, there's Copadichromis trewavasae that's black with blue blaze, and S. fryeri that's blue with white blaze...I too wish the blue orchid wasn't so shy.


Thats the one I was thinking of. I can get a Copadichromis trewavasae Likoma ''Ivory Head Mloto''. Will that one work?


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## lilscoots

In my all male tank my trewavasae is not the jet black that my male with the females is. he's more of a charcoal/blue color with a whitish blaze. The one with the females (his son) is jet black and brilliant blue at half the size...


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## Demigod

I know I had the Pseudotropheus sp. acei on the list, but there is a local breeder that has the nicest Labidochromis caeruleus I've ever seen. I'm hoping to talk her out of some fry. They would be much nicer in this tank than the acei.


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## Demigod

Found a craigslist ad for a complete 150 gallon setup that includes tank, lights, heater, new canister filter, stand and other various things for less than an FX5. They didn't post details or photos so I'm inquiring about it. I might just be able to pick up everything I need to finish this project AND have a 150g setup left over for less than I was going to spend in the first place. Fingers crossed.


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## Demigod

Maybe not quite as he stated in the ad, but... I don't know. Anyone have an opinion on this? I could probably pick this up for $300-$325.




























Worth it for the FX5? Sell the rest off after taking the canister?


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## clhinds78

Demigod said:


> clhinds78 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your setup is really coming along. Can't wait for the finished tank. I think a hap/peacock mbuna setup was the right choice!
> 
> I have one of the aqueon strip lights too and the bulb that came with it was terrable. I replaced it with full spectrum corallife bulb and it made all the difference. I think your idea of using the LEDs and the t8's is a good one, just be sure to get some quality t8 bulbs.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering buying three of these 24" T5 HO fixtures. They chain together so I'll only have 1 plug, and they can fit under the front of the canopy with the LEDs in the back. I will probably at the very least get 3 of these and try them out.. and return them if they aren't bright enough. I can get 3 of them for $75 total which is pretty good considering my current dual T5 HO 30" strip cost me about the same.
Click to expand...

That could work too. The LEDs with the HOs might be a bit bright tho. Three standard 24" bulbs might be enough. I guess it depends on what you like and how bright you want your tank.


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## Demigod

clhinds78 said:


> That could work too. The LEDs with the HOs might be a bit bright tho. Three standard 24" bulbs might be enough. I guess it depends on what you like and how bright you want your tank.


I just talked to the guy about his used tank and it comes with 2 24" strips... that might be enough.

In any case it will get me an FX5, 2 24" lights, glass tops, and a heater for less than I could get the FX5 new. I can probably get rid of the tank and stand (if my MTS will let me) for at least $175/$200. So... I think the lighting will be alright and I'll save a ton of cash.


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## Iggy Newcastle

FYI... I got both of my FX5s brand new somewhere in the neighborhood of $240-250 each. I like my stuff new, but that 150 setup is a pretty nice price.


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## Demigod

After thinking on this all day I passed on the deal for the aquarium and filter. In the end I would have paid next to nothing for the filter, but the amount of work to get it and resell it was just too much to think about right now... as it is I have my hands full with the 125. I'll just pick up a new FX5.

Iggy, can you PM me where you got yours? 240/250 is considerably cheaper than anywhere I can find them.


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## clhinds78

Demigod said:


> After thinking on this all day I passed on the deal for the aquarium and filter. In the end I would have paid next to nothing for the filter, but the amount of work to get it and resell it was just too much to think about right now... as it is I have my hands full with the 125. I'll just pick up a new FX5.
> 
> Iggy, can you PM me where you got yours? 240/250 is considerably cheaper than anywhere I can find them.


I probably would have gone for it and just kept the 150 around for the next time my MTS acts up.  Getting a new fx5 will be nice tho.


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## anthraxx4200

id personally have low balled him a bit (since all you want is the filter) and with a little bit of elbow grease that stand/canopy could be gorgeous. then resell it all for a profit. just my opinion on this one. gl in your choice


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## clhinds78

anthraxx4200 said:


> id personally have low balled him a bit (since all you want is the filter) and with a little bit of elbow grease that stand/canopy could be gorgeous. then resell it all for a profit. just my opinion on this one. gl in your choice


 :thumb:


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## Demigod

Great. Now I'm sitting here second guessing myself. I'll see how I feel about it in the morning.


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## Demigod

Instead of multiple fixtures for light I decided on a single larger fixture that I'll put in the front center of the tank. I picked up a Hagen GLO Dual T5 HO unit. It's nice and bright and came with a 6700k, 10k, and Actinic. That finishes things off for the lighting.

Now I need to get a heater and an FX5.

I started cutting the oak for skinning the stand last night. I don't have any photos yet but I'll get something together soon.


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## Demigod

How many BN Plecos do you figure is good for a 125? I have 1M/1F @ 2.5" and 4 (or more) fry as of this morning.


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## clhinds78

Demigod said:


> How many BN Plecos do you figure is good for a 125? I have 1M/1F @ 2.5" and 4 (or more) fry as of this morning.


Three would probably be enough. I have two in my 75G and they do a good job keeping up.


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## k7gixxerguy

I have one BN in my 125 and he keeps it at a nice maintained level. The 3D background was covered before I introduced him but he strategically cleaned about a square foot per night and is now on maintenance duty.


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## Demigod

I think I'll go with 2.. the male and female I have. If I can create a good home in there for them I might still be able to get them to breed and get some credit at my LFS for their offspring.


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## lilscoots

I have one in my 125 with 16 3+" haps and it does a good job maintaining, there is some algae on the rocks but the glass is always clean


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## clhinds78

lilscoots said:


> I have one in my 125 with 16 3+" haps and it does a good job maintaining, there is some algae on the rocks but the glass is always clean


Do haps and peacocks eat algae at all?

Your 180 project sounds sweet! I'd love to have a large hap/peacock tank!


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## Demigod

Talk about the mother of all stalled projects... I haven't touched a thing in weeks. Can't seem to get someone over to help with the silicone, and the space I had set aside for working on the tank has some things in it now that someone was going to pick up, but just can't find the time. Frustrating to say the least. It'll happen.


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## lilscoots

I've noticed occasionally my peacocks and couple of my haps "nibble" on the rocks...whether they're eating algae or things living on the algae i can't say.

I hear you with stalled projects...my tank sat in my living room for 2 months while I found time and scraped enough money to trim and paint the room before I could set up the tank, and it was frustrating to see it there every day empty.


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## clhinds78

lilscoots said:


> I've noticed occasionally my peacocks and couple of my haps "nibble" on the rocks...whether they're eating algae or things living on the algae i can't say.
> 
> I hear you with stalled projects...my tank sat in my living room for 2 months while I found time and scraped enough money to trim and paint the room before I could set up the tank, and it was frustrating to see it there every day empty.


Well, then you'd would definetly need some plecos!

I hate stalled projects too. Usually its money that stalls me. This hobby can be costly at times!


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## miDnIghtEr20C

Demigod said:


> Full Tank (T8 Left, LED Right:


This is an awesome picture showing off the difference. Bless the person who thought of LED.


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## Demigod

Surprise M*&%#$*@!&#r!

This project isn't dead.

Had my fiance and her kids move into the house last year which consequently filled every bedroom and then some. Needless to say my MTS was cured overnight, and the plan was to seal the 125 and unload it on Craigslist for a nice profit.

My "Family" room has gone unused for over a year now... family time takes place elsewhere... so it's time for a man cave!

The room is in the basement which means the tank will need to be moved. After reading about a few large tanks having seal problems and their owners abandoning them, it got me to thinking about the seal job on this tank. Will moving a tank of this size cause the seals to adjust? Would I be better off moving the tank to the basement and THEN sealing it in place where it will live?


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## Iggy Newcastle

If you have not started working on it yet, just do it all in the basement...


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## Demigod

It likely doesn't come as much of a surprise that this project IS actually dead. A 125gal aquarium project had no chance against a new woman in my life and her kids. That, and a major storm that hit our city in Nov 2015 left us without power for 10 days, and that was the end of all fish.

However, I weighed my choices and after all this time, the choice I made was a bad one. So! Out with the fiance and children, and back to the things that brought me joy. The tank is long gone, but the drive for a project is back.

Surprise M*&%#$*@!&#r!


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