# New tank setup



## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Hey everyone. I just found a super deal on CG for $150. Its a 75g w/bow front with lights, matching stand, Cascade 1000 canister filter. It definitely needs a good cleaning and the stand needs touching up but Im very happy. This is my first tank since I was little so I might be going a bit overboard on the size and with cichlids but hey what the ****  Any tips on first starting out would be very much appreciated. Thanks.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Forgot to add the pic. Let me know if this works. First time linking from Dropbox.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Nice deal. Tanks that come with a stand are great. You can never go overboard with the size of a tank, be it your first or 10th.


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

Hi and welcome

Nice find :thumb:

If i were you i would first find out how to stack your filter, im sure there are some on here with a cascade that can help on that, then you need to cycle the tank, this article tells you how http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/f ... _cycle.php

It would be better if you put your substrate and rocks in first, lots of threads on that here.

While your waiting for the cycle have a real good read here and try to decide what fish you like


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Yes, great deal on the tank! Bowfronts can be quite pricey. This would make a great mbuna or tang tank.

I would start out by doing a fishless cycle on the tank. Then I would research to see what kind of fish you want to keep. and that will determine how you want to set the tank up. Do you have any idea what type cichlids you want to keep at this point?


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

fusion said:


> Hi and welcome
> 
> Nice find :thumb:
> 
> ...


Fusion beat me to the punch!


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Right now I have no clue on the type I want. I'll have to read up on the differences between all of them. I would like the kinds that are less aggressive to start out with.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Dengar? Bounty hunter from Empire Strikes Back?


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Yup, you got it 

Quick dumb question. The tank needs a very good cleaning. What is the best way to clean it, soap and water and a soft sponge?


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Hard water stains? I would use vinegar. If they're really bad you may need to soak the area. Lay some paper towels on the stains and pour vinegar on the towels. Be sure to keep them moist.

If just cleaning up, be sure to get all soap/residue washed out. You may be able to get by with hot water and a rag.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Not sure about the hard water but there is crud all over the top lids. Here is an example of what Im talking about.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

dengar said:


> Not sure about the hard water but there is crud all over the top lids. Here is an example of what Im talking about.


Ya, that looks like hard water and other residue stains. I use CLR on any equipment that isn't going to be in the tank and vinegar on any that is. Soak overnight and be sure to rinse thoroughly.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

OK so I finally got the tank and Im trying to clean the glass canopy, no matter what I use I cant get this out. Is this hard water stains?


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

I use CLR on anything with water deposits. Wash with liquid soap/water and rinse well.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Update: I found a few bubbles in the silicone so for me it was too much work to keep this tank. I threw up the tank and stand (kept the rest  ) back on CL and was able to find a buyer that's going to use it for reptiles.

So now here's my new NEW setup. 75 gallon with stand, light, glass and wood canopy. I am much happier now since I can now get slightly larger fish if I choose to.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

looks like the aqueon stand and canopy,I really like this,I know its suggested and brought up alot,but painting the back black on this setup would be really nice,it'll give depth to the tank,and I know Malawi cichlids really stand out against black


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

OK, so I finally took out my Cascade 1000 canister filter to see what I really have. I cant find the manual online anywhere so I need a bit of help identifying what I have and what I will need. Here is the picture.


















Im guessing the black bags are carbon. Then I have a black filter for large particles and the blue/white ones for smaller particles. Am I on the right track? Also what am I going to need to get this running for cichlids. *** read up on bio balls and ceramic rings which I assume serve the same purpose?


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

I would remove the carbon, its not needed unless your removing medication, bio balls work but ceramic rings work better in a canister, boimax or something similar. the blue filter pads look very much like the marineland packs that most big box pet stores sell, its a big sheet that you cut to fit, works well and a lot cheaper.
Cant help you on the stacking order as i dont know that filter but i would do 2 trays of biomax.

Nice tank :thumb:


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## Dark Moon (Sep 3, 2012)

i am very much anxious about a matter ; it is 'can i use black oxide instead of quicrete color?'
in my country i tried hard to get quikrete color but in vain.
what can i use as a alternative of quikrete color?
pls reply me as soos as possible...
i m a new member...i dont know here's rules about posting..pls forgive if i wrote any wrong on mu post


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## metricliman (Sep 3, 2012)

Dark Moon: I would create a new thread, because you may get more responses.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Big day of work today. Got the canister filter filled with Biomax. Filled the tank with 75% water. Added dechlorinator and ammonia. I have it running now with the lights off. Do I need to add bacteria now to jump start it?


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

You can if you want to, depends how big of a rush your in to get the fish lol


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Ok, I didnt know if it was a necessity or not.

Just tested pH at 8.4 and Ammonia at roughly 4-6 ppm. Got lucky with the pH I think. We have very hard water here in Palm Beach County.


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

4-6 is a bit high, next dose use a bit less, try and get it 1-2 ppm


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

So leave it alone for the next couple of days or should I do a partial water change to bring it down.

Also I looked at the bacteria to jump start the cycling. is this what I need?

http://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-N ... roduct_top


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Dr. Tim's works very well.

I would do a WC to bring it down to about 3 ppm


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Here's an update. I got DrTim's stuff in there from last night and added 50 lbs of PFS. Im debating adding more but Im not sure.

Here are my levels as of now: Ammonia 2 ppm, Nitrites .25 ppm, Nitrates 10-20 ppm.

What should I do now, let it do its thing for a couple of days then measure again?


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Here's a very quick pic. Water is very cloudy from the DrTim's so I hope it goes away soon. The nemo thing is my sons from another small tank he used to have so of course he wanted it in there 

Do you think there is enough sand or should I put some more in it?


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

dengar said:


> Here's a very quick pic. Water is very cloudy from the DrTim's so I hope it goes away soon. The nemo thing is my sons from another small tank he used to have so of course he wanted it in there
> 
> Do you think there is enough sand or should I put some more in it?


The couldiness will go away in a few days. Its a typical bacteria bloom.

I usually have the sand about a half inch about the rim at most. You don't need a lot and the more you have the more you will have to stir up in order to remove harmful gas pockets.

My nephew has a hulk in his tank. I don't like it, but he does and its his tank anyway.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I would test for ammonia and nitrite every 24 hours. Don't bother with testing nitrate since any nitrite present will skew the test. It's a bit different than what the articles advise with fishless cycling, since you used Dr.Tims. You want to be able to remove 2 ppm ammonia in a 24 hour period. Once you can do that, and nitrite is 0, check your nitrate. If you have nitrate, then you're cycled. But the 24 hours is important. You could add more ammo than 2 ppm, but going over 3 is unnecessary and could mess up the cycle.

Also, the ammonia test can be hard to tell when it's zero. I tested my tap water the same time I would the tanks and compare. Or you could use bottled water.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Ammonia down to 1ppm tonight. Nitrites up some. Water has a yellowish tint to it. Is that the bacteria? Also do I add more ammonia or wait until it drops to zero?


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Always wait til 0. I'm not sure what a yellow tinge indicates. I would just continue cycling. Once you read 0, dose again to 2 ppm and continue testing every 24 hrs


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Getting closer...










Im going to put in juvi's in there. Those should be enough rocks for now right?


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Ammonia down to 0 in 24 hours. Nitrites are up now (4-5ppm). How long does it usually take to lower to 0?


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

dengar said:


> Ammonia down to 0 in 24 hours. Nitrites are up now (4-5ppm). How long does it usually take to lower to 0?


Sometimes takes longer than the ammonia part, patience lol your getting there :thumb:


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

I know I know


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

You should still be adding ammonia though when you get your zero reading. You may experience the nitrite phase to move much faster than normal sine you used Dr Tims.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Just an update. Nitrites are still a nice deep purple  Tank looks nice and clear though. The waiting is just killing me hehe


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## cichlid-gal (Apr 27, 2012)

Better you than the fish  Just kidding you dengar. Very nice tank setup and you will be really happy when your fish go in and you know you have the tank safe and cycled for them.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Hehe thanks. I decided to check for nitrates today and its very high, like 80-100 ppm....so I think its finally getting there.


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## Storiwyr (Apr 24, 2012)

I love the beautiful set up ... with a random Nemo in the corner. <3 It has character!

Stick with it, I promise the patience will pay off in peace of mind when you don't have to worry about the spiking of ammonia and nitrite with fish in the tank.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Last couple of nights I noticed a pH drop to around 6.8 which I raised with a water change. Ill probably pick up some crushed coral for the canister filter. Nitrites were still purple even after a 50% water change.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

You'd be better off with aragonite if you're going to try to buffer within the canister. First, I'd check your tap and tank water KH levels.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

ok thanks.

So due to a rookie accident I ended up hosing up my living room a bit with water. Not too bad but water got under the wood stand so I ended up draining most of the water (about 80-90%) in order to move and dry it. After refilling I decided to check for nitrates. It still went purple but it too a much longer time to get there (was blue for a while before it changed). Anyway here is the pic since I cant tell what level its at. Looks like 2ppm to me but maybe someone else will have better luck.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

dengar said:


> ok thanks.
> 
> So due to a rookie accident I ended up hosing up my living room a bit with water. Not too bad but water got under the wood stand so I ended up draining most of the water (about 80-90%) in order to move and dry it. After refilling I decided to check for nitrates. It still went purple but it too a much longer time to get there (was blue for a while before it changed). Anyway here is the pic since I cant tell what level its at. Looks like 2ppm to me but maybe someone else will have better luck.


Been there! I did the same thing trying to set up my canister. What a pain, but worth it in the end.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Bought more rocks. What do you think?


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Looking good! I need to go get more rocks for my tank!


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Havent updated this in a while. Im still cycling  6 1/2 weeks and counting. 2ppm ammonia being processed in about 1 1/2 days. Nitrites are off the charts. Did a 75% water change to try and get the levels down. This time Im trying something different. Im turning off the filters as Im changing the water (was letting it run if it was a small change) and Im running the water very slowly when replenishing the tank. I was wondering if I was killing the bacteria with my water changes since I was just gushing the water in there and having the filters running. Other than that, any ideas why its going to slow? PH is 8.2 so Im perfect there.


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## cherokee2871 (Jun 1, 2007)

Does it normally take that long to cycle a tank without fish 6 1/2 weeks seems a little extreme.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

I didnt think so, epecially since I used Dr. Tim's product. Last night I only processed 1ppm ammonia in 24 hours. Im definitely going backwards here and I have no idea why.


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

ok...someone please tell me Im close! I went camping over the weekend with my son and I decided to just leave the tank alone for Friday and Saturday (I did not dose Thursday either so its been 3 days). I just got home not too ago and decided to check the tank. My nitrites dropped down to 1 ppm!!!

I thought my ammonia processing was dropping so I dont know if I actually have nitrite eating bacteria now or is it because my tank is somehow stalling. Do I dose more ammonia or leave it alone tonight as well? If I do dose....how much?


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

If the ammonia is to 0 redose, i would do it to 2ppm if you can, seems your close


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## dengar (Aug 13, 2012)

Ok will do. I forgot to add the water is cloudy for no apparent reason. 2nd bacterial bloom?


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

dengar said:


> Ok will do. I forgot to add the water is cloudy for no apparent reason. 2nd bacterial bloom?


Seems it sometimes happens


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