# HELP Malawi BLOAT!



## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

I have a 75G Malawi Peacock tank all the water parameters are good. One of my new Albino Peacocks had white long poop and it has spread to my nice OB Peacock and another fish. I added 3/4 Cup Epsom Salt for 60G of water from PamChin advice. So far I haven't loss any fish and they are just the same sitting at the bottom of the tank and isolated from the other tank mates. I treated the whole tank with Epsom Salt @ 11:30am ET. What should I do next? I have stopped feedings and have switch to medicated Jungle Parasite food. They don't show any signs of eating and the tank lights are off temp is 80 degrees. :-?


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## allierw (Apr 20, 2006)

I would follow the instructions here: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... hp?t=24132

and quickly! Treat the whole tank.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

If I can't find any CLOUT what else can I use instead?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Metronidazole. I usually have to order it online but you can get it over night.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

should I stick with Epsom Salt not trying to go the medication route if I don't have too


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## wheelerr (May 24, 2011)

DJRansome said:


> Metronidazole. I usually have to order it online but you can get it over night.


Do you follow the above 6 day treatment the same way when using Metronidazole?


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

The following epsom salt dosages assume that you haven't already dosed, so alter accordingly to what your levels are.

Metronidazole dosed in the water: Perform a 30-40% water change, vacuum, remove any chemical filtration and add 2 tablespoons of Epsom salt for every ten gallons of water, pre-mixed and added gradually over a period of 5-6 hours. Add 250mg metronidazole for every 10 gallons daily for 5-10 days with each dosage preceded by a 30-40% water change. If after 5 treatments youÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ve noticed an improvement as well as a bowel movement, attempt feeding metro treated food (see below), otherwise, wait 24 hours and begin treatment again, starting with a 30% water change. Remove any uneaten food after 5-10 minutes. If eating and bowel movements return to normal, continue the metro treated food for a further 3 days with water changes before each feeding.

(Note: this dosage is stronger than what some manufacturers recommend for their product and therefore you may choose to go with what the package recommends, however many aquarist have not only found the above dosage safe and effective but have chosen to go with an even stronger dosage when dealing with Bloat. )

Once you have concluded the treatment, gradually return the tank to normal salinity over a period of 5-6 hours via small partial water changes until approximately 100% of water has been changed and resume normal filtration.

Metro Treated Food: In a disposable cup, dissolve 150mg of metronidazole in a tablespoon of tank water. Then add food pellets appropriate to the number of fish in the tank. After the pellets have soaked for a few minutes, pour all of the contents of the cup into the tank. Feed the fish this mixture for 5-10 days.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

should I just stick with Epsom Salt


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## Chunkanese (Feb 4, 2011)

Cichfish said:


> should I just stick with Epsom Salt


Depends.. Do you like your fish?
The meds are needed because Bloat and correct me if im wrong, is an outbreak of internal parasites/bacteria brought on by a number of stressors. Epsom salt will only help your fish clear their digestive tracts and buy you a little more time.

Unless you have been wanting to restock your tank, i would try to medicate. Jungle medicated food is only good if they are still eating. Unfortunately your past that stage.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

ok I guess I will try to treat with the meds either clout or the metro...


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

I might have to not go with either since I have synadontis catfish and clown loaches and these meds can cause them to die...any other options so far none have died and I have been feeding medicated food once a day. ...looks like it could be spreading but have to act quickly and b on the safe side...


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## allierw (Apr 20, 2006)

Remove the catfish and the loaches and treat the other fish. Otherwise, like others have said, your fish could all die.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

My synodontis have always been fine in tanks treated with epsom salt and/or metronidazole.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

How about with clown loaches?


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## allierw (Apr 20, 2006)

I've treated fronts with Met in a tank with clown loaches and they were fine.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

I will have to give it a shot with the metro....did you have the same issue with your Fronts?


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## dtune21 (Dec 16, 2003)

Cichfish said:


> I will have to give it a shot with the metro....did you have the same issue with your Fronts?


The loaches will be fine as I have had to treat my entire 100g tank at least 3 different occasions. Like everyone else has already said, start the Metro A.S.A.P. or you will find your fish die one by one until they are all gone. Clout will stain your silicone and I have never had to use it because Metro has always worked for me. The longer you wait, the more likely your fish will not survive.


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## allierw (Apr 20, 2006)

My Fronts were young and they just randomly started dying...I am not sure if it was bloat but I suspect it was. I treated the tank with Met and sulfathiazole. Half of my fronts died (went from 14 to 7) but they have been healthy ever since.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

Yes I am going to treat the tank with....API General Cure....it has METRO in it and I have read some good reviews on it


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## wheelerr (May 24, 2011)

I have another question about bloat.

Is bloat something that you generally see killing off one fish at a time as each fish gets it and goes through it?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Yes. Sometimes the deaths can be a month or more apart.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

I just treated with API General Cure and will follow the directions as stated on the box....I removed my carbon


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## dtune21 (Dec 16, 2003)

API General Cure doesnt have the recommended dosage of Metro to cure bloat. I used API one time in a hospital tank for a fish that was starting to show signs of hole in the head, which API general cure says it cures. The fish died two days later...

You need straight Metro from Seachem or find fishzole and theres another one that I cant think of the name.


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## allierw (Apr 20, 2006)

Yes, I used the powdered Met and Sulfathiazole from Seachem. I would use a single source medication to treat effectively and quickly.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

API General is 250mg metronidazole and 75mg praziquantel, both of which should be fine in a 'per 10g' dosage.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

So should I stick with the API General Cure treatment or should I continue the dose with more Metro? So far the fish are doing the same I did see another one today with stringy white poop but he is eating feed hit like one pellet. The other big OB Peacock is still shy and not eating, albino is doing well and eating....


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

API should be fine. For the ones that are eating, you are using food soaked in meds correct?
See page 1 if not.
If you're feeding daily with med soaked food, use half a packet (around 160mg) and add the other half to the water. Be sure to remove any uneaten food after 5-10 minutes.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

yes I have been doing that how long should I continue the treatment with the metro?


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

also should I keep on treating with epsom salt when doing water changes?


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

5-10 days. Treatment is successful when your fish eat like they're starving, don't spit and perform regular, normal looking bowel movements.
Yes, try and keep the salinity level the same when performing water changes.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

How about the one that already has the bloated belly? Will he ever cure and be back to normal?


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Normally, fish that have a bloated look to them and are indeed suffering from bloat and not an obstruction of some sort, are in the final stages of bloat and are quite difficult to save, as their intestinal tracts are partially or completely dissolved. Having said that, there's no harm in trying.
This is the OB peacock? Once you've treated for 10 days, perform a 40% water change while keeping the salinity the same, wait 2 days then begin a new treatment round.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

ok sounds like a plan I will go purchase some more metro and concentrated seachem and treat with it...then perform a 40 percent water change. How should I treat coming form API General Cure to Plain Metronizole?


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

So happy my big OB Peacock is eating!!! The tank looks better and even the one with the bloated tummy is swimming around but not really eating. The other tank mates are eating and doing well. Should I still continue the medical treatment with metro?


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Unless you can remove the non-eater and treat separately, I'd continue to treat the water as well as feed medicated food to those who are eating.
Ideally, it would be best to treat them separately; the eaters for a further 5 days with medicated food only (no treating the water) and the non-eater for the remainder of the current schedule (10 days total) then skip 2 days and begin another 10 day waterborne treatment (attempt feeding at 5 days) but if you can't do that, then treat together as explained above for however many days needed to reach 10 days of medication.

I'm afraid I wasn't very clear in one of my earlier posts. I said


> If you're feeding daily with med soaked food, use half a packet (around 160mg) and add the other half to the water.


What I should have said was use half a packet for treating the food and use 1 packet for every 10 gallons of tank water. Apologies if you under medicated as a result.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

I can't afford the Metro on a tight budget I will have to do a WC tomm and just treat with Epsom Salt and let the tank ride. Any ideas you can help me with on a tight budget? I will just have to reduce my feedings to like once a day or once every other day. I really appreciate everyones help.


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## iwade4fish (Jan 5, 2009)

I brought an Acei back from EXTREME bloat using salts and a QT tank, looked like a porcupine. My daughter was feeding them as well as me, so too much food got blocked up in digestive tract. She recovered with just using salts, took a month b4 she ate again, but always had a slight 'bug-eye' look. Other than that, she spawned and eventually died from some understocking/aggression issues.

Check Aquabid for medicated flake food; after the bloat issue, I bought dewormer flake and Metro-flake, 0.25lb of each.
Think of it as an investment that you never have to cash in; but when you do need it, you already have it, and that my friends, is priceless.

Good luck.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Intestinal blockage from overfeeding and bloat are two different ailments.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

Should I stick with Epsom Salt and continue doing Water Changes also reduce feeding to once every other day or so? Intestinal blockage and bloat what are the differences? Only one fish now is bloated and breathing hard in the tank. He just stays midway in the tank breathing hard and swimming. The others are doing fine. I have to do a water change tomm and go back to normal routine since I just finished up my treatment of API General Cure and have no more money to spend on meds.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

Just got some more API General Cure thanks to Kerricko!!! Everyone in the tank is doing well but I had to remove my Crimson Red and put him in a bucket with some tank water and air bubble. He is the only one that is doing bad with a serious tummy swell. He was at the bottom of the tank up against the glass breathing really heavy. I treated again this afternoon the whole tank with metro and will continue treating for rest of the week as the API General Cure states. I hope he makes it and comes around. Any help would be greatly appreciated


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Continue as you have been doing, keep an eye on temp in the bucket and perform daily water changes with a quality dechlorinator (while maintaining salinity) to keep the water ammonia free.


Cichfish said:


> Intestinal blockage and bloat what are the differences?


Bloat is believed to be caused by parasites which reside within the fish in manageable numbers.
Through poor water quality, stress or improper diet, these parasites multiply due to a lowered immune system and cause intestinal blockages. The lowered immune system also makes the fish susceptible to bacterial infection. A non-bloat related intestinal blockage doesn't involve parasites and would be unlikely to respond to bloat medications other than epsom salt.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

Today I lost my Crimson Red it was the only fish I lost from the Bloat out-break. The tank is back to normal and hopefully it stays that way. I will perform a WC and treat with just dechlorinator and epsom salt from here on out. I will have to reduce feedings and feed a more balanced diet. Gonna switch from Gravel to Sand what would be the proper way to do this I made a post in the substrate section. I lost the Crimson Red but now I have an excuse to purchase something else to make me happy at least lol. I enjoy everyones input and advice will definetly keep some metro and clout on hand for next time.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

You might want to wait to make the switch until your tank, fish and beneficial bacteria fully recover from this battle with illness and medications.

Remember all fish can seem healthy and a new bloat victim can turn up a month later.

Quarantine new fish for 3 weeks or so before adding them into your tank.

That way maybe there will be some time to accumulate some cash for the sand and new fish after spending so much on meds. :thumb:


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

Yes I will take it easy for sure before I make the switch over to sand maybe 3 weeks or so. So far the tank is doing good. Did a WC today and treated with Prime and Epsom Slat. Think I will keep on using the Epsom Salt from here on out as a precaution. I have also been reducing feedings to once every other day feeding Hikari Excel, NLS, Spurlina Flake and omega one flakes.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

Ok so I have done a WC and treated with Epsom Salts and stop using Meds. I have noticed the Albino Peacock still showing signs of long stringy with poop what the heck!!! Also the large OB Peacock is having the white stringy poop as well. Both are eating and have a appetite. Is it normal for them to have poop like this? I hope its not another outbreak of bloat signs or maybe the Epsom Salt making them poop more as a laxitive.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

In the mid to late stages of bloat, there are no bowel movements at all.
The fact that your fish are experiencing bowel movements is indicitave of early stage bloat *or* they're now able to expel the excess mucus that bloat produces.
Were they previously not having bowel movements? If so, then I'd say they're on their way towards recovery. If not, then you may be stopping medication early. It's not unheard of to have to repeat a 5-10 day treatment multiple times before the fish are eating and digesting normally.
Looking back through this thread, you treated for 6 days.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

Before I was treating the OB Peacock wasn't expelling any poop but now he is expelling poop. Its kinda short poop not that long and goes away. He is swimming and acting normal and eating. The albino peacock has from day one been having long stringy poop he is eating and having normal bowel movements. Yes I did a 6 day treatment. I think the albino peacock introduced to the tank last is the real culprit. Not too sure, but you say all fish carry the parasite in them its just a matter of time b4 they get stress and then leads to bloat. IMO it could be the epsom salt from yesterday WC maybe washing there insides out. The albino has sometimes a mixture of brown and white stringy poop..


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

I'd probably leave the tank as is for the next few days, then start small water changes over a period of at least 5-6 hours, if not a day or two, until the salinity has been returned to normal.
Continue to monitor for any spitting of food afterwords.


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## Cichfish (Jul 15, 2003)

By saltinity you mean Epsom Salt? No more aquarium salt correct?


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