# 20 Long Shell Dweller Tank



## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

Finished setting up the tank over the weekend and I think it's looking pretty good. I rinsed the sand for about 30 minutes in batches but I still have cloudy water. I'm hoping it will clear up by tomorrow. I started the fishless cycle yesterday and right now the ammonia is about 4ppm. I'll be checking in a few days to see where the progress is.

Equipment:
Aquaclear 50 Filter
Beamswork Hi Lumens 10000K LED
100w Heater


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

20L is a great size for shell dwellers. What kind are you planning to keep? Some of them (like multies) will want A LOT more shells than you have in there. I like your rocks, do you know what kind they are? If you added to the pile you might get away with a pair of julies in the tank as well... would make an interesting setup. Keep posting pictures. :thumb:


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

shelbynjakesdad said:


> 20L is a great size for shell dwellers. What kind are you planning to keep? Some of them (like multies) will want A LOT more shells than you have in there. I like your rocks, do you know what kind they are? If you added to the pile you might get away with a pair of julies in the tank as well... would make an interesting setup. Keep posting pictures. :thumb:


I haven't added any shells yet because all the sea shells I have don't really seem like they would work. I'm going to have to buy some online. The rocks were labeled as Mexican Driftwood but I'm not really sure if they are petrified wood or not. As for what fish we're looking for, I would like some multies and similis with a pair of julies but we'll see what I can find at the LFS when I'm ready to buy.


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

I've used shells of all shapes and sizes, they don't seem very picky. The multies actually seemed to prefer the smaller shells (openings were about 1/2 inch). Before ordering from online find a LFS that has saltwater tanks, they usually have piles of shells that they will sell dirt cheap and some are very interesting looking. I bought mine for 10 cents each. Just stay away from conch type shells, you want shells that taper very quickly and preferably with round openings.


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

The water is starting to clear up quite a bit. We added an Anubias that we plan on attaching to a rock in the next few days. I'll post a picture tomorrow of some of the shells that we collected from Sanibel Island to see which ones might be suitable.


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## oetheous (May 25, 2013)

Nice tank! Can't wait to see it when you're done.


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

How do these shells look? I'm worried they're just too big. I need quite a bit more and these take up a lot of space already.


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

Those are not really well suited for shell dwellers. The open clam-like shells are not of any use to them. The ones with the cone-like shape are supposedly dangerous as they can get caught in them, but I've used similar shells with no problems in the past. I've got to think since you are in Florida, finding shells should be fairly easy... It's got to be easier than here in Idaho! :lol:


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

shelbynjakesdad said:


> Those are not really well suited for shell dwellers. The open clam-like shells are not of any use to them. The ones with the cone-like shape are supposedly dangerous as they can get caught in them, but I've used similar shells with no problems in the past. I've got to think since you are in Florida, finding shells should be fairly easy... It's got to be easier than here in Idaho! :lol:


I'll have to check out some of the local stores. My wife and I have a TON of shells but they're all similar to these. The only ones we have with a nice round opening are Murex shells but they are pretty small at 1" or less wide of an opening.


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## shelbynjakesdad (Mar 13, 2013)

1" is more than enough for multis... I put all shapes and sizes in my multi tank, and the ones that they choose to use the most are the ones with round openings of about 0.5" to 0.75" diameter.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Oooh, I like how the 10000k lights make the sand and decor look. Do you think it washes out the fish's color? I am hoping to setup a 20L shell-dweller tank soon and I was planning on using a beamswork LED, but I was going to go with 6500k.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Think in terms of a pile of 100 whale eye shells.


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## anthonymb (Dec 13, 2013)

This is by far the best looking shellie tank i have seen... once you get those shells it will be perfect imo. the simple and clean look is exactly what i look for in my tanks. keep the updates coming please!!


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## anthonymb (Dec 13, 2013)

DJRansome said:


> Think in terms of a pile of 100 whale eye shells.


where do you recommend getting these? i have been looking hard for shell for my tank


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

PM sent.


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

So, Ammonia has been at 1ppm for a few days not but still no sign of Nitrate or Nitrite. Anything else I should be doing? Also, what order should I have my media? I currently have the two sponges at the bottom and the ceramic rings at the top. I noticed today that some of the rings are not submerged.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

BlakeL said:


> So, Ammonia has been at 1ppm for a few days not but still no sign of Nitrate or Nitrite. Anything else I should be doing? Also, what order should I have my media? I currently have the two sponges at the bottom and the ceramic rings at the top. I noticed today that some of the rings are not submerged.


I arrange my media the same way. Having the sponges at the bottom keeps the bio media from getting clogged as quickly. Beneficial bacteria actually does better in a wet/dry environment so it's ok if some it isn't completely submerged. I would be better if water flow to touched that section, but it's not a big deal.

Your tank is not fully cycled until there are some nitrates present. Nitrates are the end result of the nitrogen cycle and are indicative of a cycled tank.


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

Since the Ammonia has dropped to about 1ppm from 4ppm should I dose it back up?


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

You can leave it at 1ppm or bump it to 2-3ppm but be careful not to overdose as this can prolong the cycling process. To elaborate on clhinds statement that nitrates indicate a cycled tank, there must also be 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite readings. When you're tank/filter can process 2-3ppm ammonia to 2-3ppm nitrate with a 0 reading for both ammonia and nitrite, then the tank is cycled. 
Also, readings for nitrate can be skewed if there are nitrites present, therefore it's premature to test for nitrate until both ammonia and nitrite are 0. Personally, I don't bother testing nitrite either until I have a 0ppm ammonia reading.
Check the fishless cycling article in the Chemistry section of the library for more info.


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

It's starting to look better. 0 Nitrites and what looks like a little under 5ppm of Nitrates. Should I dose back up to 3-4 now?


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

2-3ppm ammonia is plenty. Looks like you're around 1ppm, so add 1-2ppm and you should be good.


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

I dosed the ammonia back up to 3 ppm 3 days ago and today it was down to about .25 ppm and around 30 nitrates so I dosed it back up again. Hopefully in the next week or so the cycle will be finished.


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## Kalost (Feb 27, 2013)

10000k is usually used for salt water. any reason why you choose it for fresh water?


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

Kalost said:


> 10000k is usually used for salt water. any reason why you choose it for fresh water?


Looks are the only reason. I like the look of a saltwater tank and didn't want the more yellow 6500K.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

BlakeL said:


> Kalost said:
> 
> 
> > 10000k is usually used for salt water. any reason why you choose it for fresh water?
> ...


Ya, I'm thinking 10000k from now on on my non-live plant tanks. I have a 6500k LED on my 75G tank and I don't really like the look of it. It IS way to yellowish.


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## anthonymb (Dec 13, 2013)

DJRansome said:


> PM sent.


Got it. Thank you.


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## BlakeL (Nov 20, 2013)

clhinds78 said:


> Ya, I'm thinking 10000k from now on on my non-live plant tanks. I have a 6500k LED on my 75G tank and I don't really like the look of it. It IS way to yellowish.


I have an Anubias and some moss balls my wife wanted but I'm not expecting any crazy growth so I would much rather have the 10000K look.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

BlakeL said:


> clhinds78 said:
> 
> 
> > Ya, I'm thinking 10000k from now on on my non-live plant tanks. I have a 6500k LED on my 75G tank and I don't really like the look of it. It IS way to yellowish.
> ...


Ya, anubias do fine with most lightening as long as you dose ferts. I'm not sure about the moss balls.


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## AfricanLove (Jan 2, 2012)

clhinds78 said:


> BlakeL said:
> 
> 
> > clhinds78 said:
> ...


He would most definitely not have to does ferts, At least not dry ones. Excel and Flourish at the very most. Anubias is a very low light plant. Moss balls can grow under a flashlight from what I have been told


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Yes, I meant liquid ferts. Anubias are column feeders and need a little iron in their water. I dose flourish in my tank twice and week and the anubias do just fine. I only use a half dose tho because I only have a couple plants in that tank right now.


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## AfricanLove (Jan 2, 2012)

clhinds78 said:


> Yes, I meant liquid ferts. Anubias are column feeders and need a little iron in their water. I dose flourish in my tank twice and week and the anubias do just fine. I only use a half dose tho because I only have a couple plants in that tank right now.


Just wanted to clear that up


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