# DIYers--Cutting Acrylic-Table saw, scribing, otherwise?



## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

I have plenty of tools, table saw, jigsaw, etc.

Last night, I was buying some 1/4 acrylic and I bought a knife that is designed to scribe acrylic and plaastic sheet to cut it, it's like a utility knife with a hook on it that ends in a 1/4 inch cutting surface. You just mark your line, run the knife along a straightedge for a couple passes, then snap it over an edge, kind of like drywall.

I am just making a couple sides/top for my bio box for a sump. I need to make straight cuts, nothing fancy, if everything goes well, I need to make about 4 cuts total. Am I better off with the scriber or the table saw? It has a regular blade, nothing fancy if that matters.

Any adivce is appreciated.

Oh, I need an acrylic cement source, as well. Has anyone used the PVC primer that Mudbuginlousiana used on his project? Home Depot and Michaels were clueless.

Thanks


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

I have had good results scoring and snapping. I have also seen nice results from a table saw. I don't know if either will give you a smooth enough edge for welding a joint. When I was shown the score and snap, the carpenter who showed me used an awl, so i don't think it really matters what you use to score it.


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## k19smith (Sep 6, 2005)

I've only used acrylic one time, I also bought the little knife scriber, I will say at first I shattered a few cuts and I tried to drill a small hole which lead to a huge shatter. I think a table saw will leave you with a million pieces but I could be wrong. I mastered it after the first 2 pieces.lol Just score score then score it some more with your scribe, then you should be able to tap it like glass.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

I have tried both methods, the scoring tool (knife with hook) can be used but it is very limited what you can do. You can use a scoring tool to cut a sheet in half and use the factory finished edges to bond to the other piece of acrylic but you cant use the scoring tool to get a nice cut and bond that same cut because the scoring tool does not give a straight clean cut. If using a table saw, you need to use a blade designed for acrylic (they are expensive, about $80 bucks in socal) otherwise a regular blade can melt the acrylic when cutting, leaving you with an uneven edge and not ideal for bonding. It would work for smaller things like overflow boxes and to make sections in a sump but to make a sump or tank out of it... I would not trust it...


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## Tadgo (Jul 31, 2011)

Do you have a router? 2 flute carbide bit is supposed to work good.


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

I do not have a router, I got out of the heavy DIY home stuff right before I picked one up.

I was at a local plastic distributor today, the sales guy told me a ferrous metal blade in a table saw will give good results with a slow feed.

Home Depot has a 128 tooth blade for ferrous metal for under $10, I think I will give that a try, I only need about 4 cuts.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Home Depot has a 128 tooth blade for ferrous metal for under $10, I think I will give that a try, I only need about 4 cuts.


That should work fine for you, I've used it. You don't need the pricey blade for what you're doing. The router bit would have worked well too, but that takes some setup by clamping it down with guides, etc, or a router table with fence. I've done both.

Go with the weldon 16, or similar that comes in a tube. Craftix makes an equivalent. You can also clean up the edges with a razor blade and go with the watery solvent like the Weldon 4. Depends what you want to get into. If appearance doesn't matter, probably easier for you to just go with the stuff in the tube.

Do some test cuts with scrap before feeding the more expensive pieces through the saw. Just feed at a steady pace. Go too slow and you'll melt the acrylic.

Do a web search to see if you've got a local plastics shop. You might get lucky, they're a great source and usually have cheap scrap available. You won't find much of what you need at the local home improvement stores short of the acrylic itself.

HTH


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

Yes, thanks, I did find a local distributor/fabricator, the encouraged me to comb through their cut room, I got a good sized sheet of 1/4 acrylic, 6 feet of 1/4 square rod to make shelf supports, and a giant can of weld on, plus a needle applicator bottle, all for about $50, at Home Depot I only found odd shaped sheets that cost almost as much as the whole haul at the plastic place.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

CITADELGRAD87 said:


> Yes, thanks, I did find a local distributor/fabricator, the encouraged me to comb through their cut room, I got a good sized sheet of 1/4 acrylic, 6 feet of 1/4 square rod to make shelf supports, and a giant can of weld on, plus a needle applicator bottle, all for about $50, at Home Depot I only found odd shaped sheets that cost almost as much as the whole haul at the plastic place.


So, you got the watery solvent? Have you ever used it?


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

I have not used it but I have a little experience using very thin CA type glue in another hobby.

My undestanding is that I get the parts where I want them, then touch the needle to the joint and let capillary action pull the cement along the join? The can says it has a 2 minute or so working time, starts to set in 3-4 minutes, and full strength in 24.

I didn't really decide on the weld on, it's just the first thing I found that is an acrylic cement. The plastic guy said it's all they use, of course, they use it all day long.

As you mentioned, Home Depot was clueless about how to join two pieces of acrylic. I saw an article where a guy used Oatey PVC primer, but that is purple, so it sort of seemed doomed to do a neat job with it.

Do you have any tips?


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

CITADELGRAD87 said:


> Yes, thanks, I did find a local distributor/fabricator, the encouraged me to comb through their cut room, I got a good sized sheet of 1/4 acrylic, 6 feet of 1/4 square rod to make shelf supports, and a giant can of weld on, plus a needle applicator bottle, all for about $50, at Home Depot I only found odd shaped sheets that cost almost as much as the whole haul at the plastic place.


How did you find this place? I am in L.A. county and would be nice to find one of these plastic places around here. Where is the one you found at?


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

PM sent, mightyevil.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

CITADELGRAD87 said:


> I have not used it but I have a little experience using very thin CA type glue in another hobby.
> 
> My undestanding is that I get the parts where I want them, then touch the needle to the joint and let capillary action pull the cement along the join? The can says it has a 2 minute or so working time, starts to set in 3-4 minutes, and full strength in 24.
> 
> ...


It's not a glue or cement, it's a solvent. You're right about how to apply it. Practice with some scrap pieces, it'll make sense. The solvent melts the edges and then evaporates within the first minute or so. Then the melted edges fuse into one piece. Check out the instructional videos here. There's one called 'how to glue acrylic' although drives me crazy because they know it's not 'glueing', it's solvent welding.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

CITADELGRAD87 said:


> PM sent, mightyevil.


Thanks!


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

It will probably be too late, but I picked up a plywood/plastic saw blade, I could not find a 10 inch blade for ferrous.

I went back and forth, but I decided acrylic is plastic, and acts pretty muc like plastic when you cut it, so it should be ok

Can anyone weigh in on this before I ruin something?

Thanks


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

If it's a small tooth blade, should work ok, but again, try it on a cheaper piece, you'll know. I do believe that's what I bought, not a ferrous blade.


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## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

Not to completely change course here but I have had a lot of luck using a jig saw with a clamped guide... The reciprocating action of a straight blade works really well, assuming you have the means to keep cut along a straight line....

Just an FYI


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

The main problem tends to be that the acrylic melts and leaves a residue on the blade. Your feed speed has to be fast enough that the acrylic does not heat up too much. You can smell when it starts to melt. I have also had good results cutting it with a regular hand saw for wood, though long straight cuts are hard to do that way.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

I just used the solvent method on one of my acrylic tanks. I got it for 5.00 at the hobby shop. The guy explained how to use it and everything. The tank is holding water as I type this. The crack was around the drain on the bottom of the tank. Their were a total of 4 cracks and I just painted the stuff onto the crack line and voila it sealed the crack. It saved my 900.00 tank that I cracked and that even made the wife happy. So I have to say the solvent works well for joining acrylic.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> I just used the solvent method on one of my acrylic tanks. I got it for 5.00 at the hobby shop. The guy explained how to use it and everything. The tank is holding water as I type this. The crack was around the drain on the bottom of the tank. Their were a total of 4 cracks and I just painted the stuff onto the crack line and voila it sealed the crack. It saved my 900.00 tank that I cracked and that even made the wife happy. So I have to say the solvent works well for joining acrylic.


I wouldn't recommend a tank be repaired this way. The solvent won't fix cracks, it evaporates leaving nothing behind, so you must be referring to the thickened stuff in a tube. It's more like a glue. You can't fix cracks via solvent welding. What you did may stop leaks for now, but it did nothing to reinforce or strengthen the crack. Acrylic is funny that way. It's subject to crazing, etc. and you may find it doing that in that spot in the future. If it's somewhere you can't see it happening, you could have a sudden failure at that point. A patch would have been a better idea with all the weight of the water involved. Particularly if it's where it's not seen.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

It would make perfect sense to me that someone would imagine that I used the gel when I explicitly said "I painted a solvent onto the crack". This is the stuff that I used. It took 3 times of painting it on, filling the tank with water, finding a tiny bubble, emptying it out and painting it on where I saw the bubble. (I actually marked it with a permanent marker)









This pic is of the applicator on said bottle of liquid solvent









Here is the spot where the crack happened. Another tank fell against the plumbing and cracked it so I had to repair it.









And here is the tank filled to the top with liquid water, lol. It has been sitting like that for 2 days now and as you can see from the pick above it does not leak.









I mean no disrespect prov356 but it seems to be working very well and it cost me 5 bucks.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I would not fix a tank this way and would never recommend it to others, regardless of whether it's holding water now or not. You should have patched it.

Again, solvent doesn't fill cracks, it evaporates. What has filled the crack is the acrylic that it melted. Apparently the sides of the crack were close enough together that some of the melted acrylic on one side fused with the other side. But, the strength of this is very questionable. I would keep a close eye on it. Actually, since it's not up and running, I'd drain it and patch it. I don't see any good reason not to.



> It would make perfect sense to me that someone would imagine that I used the gel when I explicitly said "I painted a solvent onto the crack".


The sarcasm wasn't necessary, was it?


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

The only reason that I do not want to patch it is because if I put the patch on the bottom, the tank will never set level. 2 if I put the patch on the inside the tank will never completely drain and 3. I do not need to buy a 15.00 piece of acrylic to fix a crack that a 5.00 bottle of solvent fixed.

"The sarcasm wasn't necessary, was it?"

No it was not necessary but it was said because I felt like you were insinuating that I mislead the readers and that I have no idea what I am talking about. When in fact I do know what I am talking about because I was the one that rode all over town trying to find a product that would weld acrylic back together. I found this stuff at our local hobby shop. If it ever fails to hold water I will post the failure on these forums and photograph what I did to fix the tank which will be putting in a patch. Until then this is obviously working and I recommend it to anyone who does not want to do it your way!


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

There's a lot you don't understand about acrylic, and I'll leave it at that. Hope it works out for you.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

Why would you just leave it at that? What is the big secret? Why not help us out instead of shutting us out? I had a teacher in college that was like that, he always seemed to have this big secret that we all had to figure out. If I am doing something fundamentally wrong and any of you have the proven methodology I would encourage you to share that here in these forums. I was only sharing something that worked for me. In other words I wanted to show what I did, how I did it and the result from that experience. I did not plan on disturbing your apple cart and if I did then it probably wasn't the first time and it probably won't be the last. It happens to me all the time. Cheers


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

sik-lid said:


> Why would you just leave it at that? What is the big secret? Why not help us out instead of shutting us out? I had a teacher in college that was like that, he always seemed to have this big secret that we all had to figure out. If I am doing something fundamentally wrong and any of you have the proven methodology I would encourage you to share that here in these forums. I was only sharing something that worked for me. In other words I wanted to show what I did, how I did it and the result from that experience. I did not plan on disturbing your apple cart and if I did then it probably wasn't the first time and it probably won't be the last. It happens to me all the time. Cheers


Your attitude. I'm not engaging.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

That's fine. I am always here to help. Interesting how you call me out and then when I prove my method (thus far anyway) you shut me out and blame my attitude. I do not care if you engage me, I was just showing everyone what I DID that WORKED. Your a moderator Tim but I feel you let your ego get in the way of this discussion. I have already apologized for the sarcasm but it is your choice whether or not you want to get over it or not. This is not the "Set In Stone" method. It is the method that worked for me. If I am wrong then the pics will be uploaded and the "patch" will be tried. I could always just run some silicone over the welded cracks but that is a different story all together. Thanks for your input it was fun while it lasted. Final note I used the juice, it worked and I am happy with that outcome. Have a nice day.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Acrylic has properties that would not be apparent to the average hobbyist. Any fabrication of acrylic subjects it to crazing. Tank manufacturers use a process after assembly called 'annealing' to discourage crazing. Patching doesn't ensure that crazing won't happen, but does add some structural support in the event that it does occur. Important to note that once crazing begins, it could spread even into the patch itself. Any fabricating or working of an acrylic tank after it leaves the manufacturer opens up this risk. Cracks are not excluded, they're like cuts. The impact and the resulting cracks could start this process. Solvent welding the cracks could encourage it also. Crazing occurs over time. What holds water today could catastrophically fail a few years from now. There's a lot of destructive force in all that water. I'm just forewarning anyone interested.

See: Acrylic sheet crazing.

There's lots of other info out there as well.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

Is "crazing" the same as the cracks that spider webbed out from the drain hole? If I patch the thing when I drill the drain hole in the patch won't that cause the existing cracks that have been welded to fail? I guess I could drill the hole in another part of the tank. Crazing, the way I am understanding it is the same thing that happens to a windshield that has a crack in it. The crack keeps growing if not corrected right? If I patch the cracked area what would I use to adhere the patch to the area? Silicone? Or the stuff that I used to weld the cracks?


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

I found this and it makes me think that my miracle elixir may not be all its Cracked (pardon the pun) up to be.
http://www.selectplastics.com/index.php ... rylic.html


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

Here is another interesting factual site about crazing.
http://www.multitechproducts.com/conten ... razing.pdf


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Is "crazing" the same as the cracks that spider webbed out from the drain hole?


Yes



> If I patch the thing when I drill the drain hole in the patch won't that cause the existing cracks that have been welded to fail?


It might. Re-manufacturing acrylic is always a risk. I'd probably drill the hole in the patch first, then apply it. Then I'd fully support the area to minimize stresses, and provide for a way to check it from time to time.



> Crazing, the way I am understanding it is the same thing that happens to a windshield that has a crack in it.


That could happen, but that's not crazing.



> If I patch the cracked area what would I use to adhere the patch to the area? Silicone? Or the stuff that I used to weld the cracks?


Don't use sillicone as it doesn't adhere to acrylic well. You can use the watery solvent, but getting it to spread, even by capillary action, to a large piece can be tricky. This is better suited to the thickened stuff that comes in a tube. Weldon 16, or there's one made by Craftix. There may be others. It's just easier to work with for this application. Make sure you provide for the release of the fumes as they can cause 'hazing' if trapped.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

sik-lid said:


> Here is another interesting factual site about crazing.
> http://www.multitechproducts.com/conten ... razing.pdf


I found a lot of this type of info when I researched building with acrylic. You want to manufacture the assembled tank as little as possible after assembly unless you happen to have a large oven handy that can fit a six foot tank. Again, acrylic has properties that aren't apparent. I learned a lot as I went and learned from mistakes that I made. I have a tank that's still holding water well after five years, but I have points that I keep an eye on now. What seems like a good idea during assembly can turn out to only add more risk of failure.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

[/quote]Don't use sillicone as it doesn't adhere to acrylic well. You can use the watery solvent, but getting it to spread, even by capillary action, to a large piece can be tricky. This is better suited to the thickened stuff that comes in a tube. Weldon 16, or there's one made by Craftix. There may be others. It's just easier to work with for this application. Make sure you provide for the release of the fumes as they can cause 'hazing' if trapped.[/quote]

Hazing is not really a factor because the bottom acrylic is white or am I misinterpreting the statement? In other words is hazing a precursor to other problems aside from cosmetic? Thanks for the idea about drilling the hole in the patch first then applying it. I don't know why I didn't think of that...


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

I have a thread on here about my 125 glass aquarium. I have to reseal it but one of the sides is completely separated from the the other pane of glass here> http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... highlight=
Any thoughts on how to go about making it hold water for years to come? I have scrubbed and scraped and cleaned and scoured now I just need to seal it using GE Silicone1* window/door/attic/basement 100% silicone. That is the one folks have recommended anyway and thats what I bought.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Hazing is not really a factor because the bottom acrylic is white or am I misinterpreting the statement? In other words is hazing a precursor to other problems aside from cosmetic?


If the tank is positioned in such a way during the repair that fumes cannot escape from the inside of the tank, hazing can occur on any surface. I'd patch from the inside with the top up and openings uncovered. A small fan placed inside the tank isn't a bad idea.

I saw your thread on the glass tank. I think most would say the best way would be to take it all apart and reassemble. My experience is more with acrylic, so I'll let someone else advise.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

Oh okay. Thanks for the heads up.


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## iwade4fish (Jan 5, 2009)

90 gal, cracked bottom. I replaced the bottom, I should've resealed the ENTIRE tank.......








100% drainage in 4.2 seconds.
Go overboard on the prep-work when re-doing glass, it pays off huge in the end!!
Back to the acrylic, I used my table saw, just fed it slow, a balance of cutting and melting. Sand smooth the edges, and a quick flame polish to remove the rough stuff. Fry trough in my avatar turned out good that way, not pretty, but seams are tight and solid. I used the watery #4 solvent. Boy, does that stuff go quick!!!!! $2/ounce, sheeeesh. 
Good luck, please stay in touch!


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

OK, I posted results in my DIY Bucket thread, which turned into a 60 Gal Acrylic converted into a sump thread with pictures, but I just noticed I never checked back in. I do thank everyone who posted here, I did incorporate the suggestions and tips that I got in time.

I was able to use the 200 tooth blade on my table saw with very good results. I was able to get a good feel for cutting vs melting, at one point I needed to shave off about 1/16 from a piece, I got a nice clean cut and the discard slightly curved from the heat, but I was impressed at the accuracy.

Here's what I ended up with for a sump:




























About all I can say is it works, and it does not leak, although nothing I had anything to do with making it watertight, that's a big advantage to using a pre made tank, I guess.

To clarify, this was a used 60G I picked up for $40, I made a single bulkhead for the bio chamber, added the acrylic tabs to hold up the eggcrate and drip tray, cut and drilled the drip tray, and added the top plate for the hose to mount to, including the locator tabs.

To anyone following looking for tips, I would not start with a used acrylic tank if possible. I messed up cosmetically when I compensated for the bowing on the front of the tank by putting weights on the front to close the gap. I had a nice clean seam, but got greedy and flipped the tank too soon, the seam popped when it failed. I was able to get it to bond, but it's a little messy looking now.

It's pretty easy to get the stuff to bond and hold how you watn it, it's pretty difficuly to get it to look like a pro did the bonding. Planing ahead to use factory cuts whenever possible, laser straight cuts any time you need to use that cut to bond to something else, block sanding the cuts after making them, and I now agree that flame smoothing the edge before bonding all are going to be necessary.


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## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

CITADELGRAD87 said:


> OK, I posted results in my DIY Bucket thread, which turned into a 60 Gal Acrylic converted into a sump thread with pictures, but I just noticed I never checked back in. I do thank everyone who posted here, I did incorporate the suggestions and tips that I got in time.
> 
> I was able to use the 200 tooth blade on my table saw with very good results. I was able to get a good feel for cutting vs melting, at one point I needed to shave off about 1/16 from a piece, I got a nice clean cut and the discard slightly curved from the heat, but I was impressed at the accuracy.
> 
> ...


Looks great, especially when you consider it was your first go with acrylic..


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Nice filter CITADELGRAD87. :thumb: It'll serve you well for years and years. You've got biocapacity to burn there, buddy.



> block sanding the cuts after making them, and I now agree that flame smoothing the edge before bonding all are going to be necessary.


Be careful with block sanding as it's easy to round off the edge. I had great success with razor scraping.










Don't use the tool they sell for this. Big and clunky and hard to work with. It's like using a sledgehammer to drive tacks.

And never, ever flame polish an edge that you're going to solvent weld. It changes the properties of the acrylic and encourages bigtime crazing. I've not tried it because I read it all over the web when I did my research. Here just one link that Google quickly turned up.

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-26064.html

A nice, clean saw cut can be welded just fine, but it takes some epxerience and practice to learn what will work and what won't. I spent the time practicing so I wouldn't waste a lot of time cleaning up edges that were already good to go. The pre-cut stuff that I ordered needed no cleanup at all and were only saw cut. Of course, they were pros with all of the expensive equipment. Laser quality cuts aren't necessary at all. I went overboard cleaning edges on my first project and wasted a lot of time.

Here's a link to a thread that went on for lilke 5 years and over 3000 posts. It was started by one expert and continued by another. I went through the entire thing. It was even split off several times. If it's still intact and you want expert tips, it's worth the time.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96763&pp=25


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

Thanks, guys, I'm pretty happy that I was able to DIY this thing. And I absolutely would not have tried it, let alone had any success, without the info and help here. I added another 5 G bio balls after that last picture, now I am running 10G total bio filtration. Should be plenty and then some.

Good to know about flame polishing. I did not try any of it on any surface, because I could not locate my mapp torch, and, after I was done, it seemed silly to polish the edges when it's kind of rough and tumble. I will admit that it is easier to tackle an acrylic project, for me, when someone else made the watertight box for me, otherwise it would have taken 10X longer and I would worry about integrity. This way, if that seam pops, my bio balls go into the still intact tank.

I guess rather than "laser" I should have emphasized laser straight, meaning a nice, square, straight line cut, so that the whole thing is exactly the same length, because you want the whole length to be touching the part you are going to weld it to. The table saw was the way to go for me.

Then I carefully smoothed the edges using about 200G sandpaper, and I was careful to not round off the edges, consciously trying to get a flat surface, edge to edge, to maximize the bonding area. I wish I had tried the razor trick, that looks like a quicker way to do the same thing.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> I wish I had tried the razor trick, that looks like a quicker way to do the same thing.


I had it down to a science. It took about 20 swipes. The guidline I came up with for a solvent ready edge is to ask the question "is it smooth enough for the solvent to flow freely without getting stopped by or channeling around ridges produced by the cut?". Visible cut lines can be ok. I first believed that I had to meke them disappear. Spent a lot of unneccesary time with it. Again, practice with different quality edges will show you.


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

Yeah, I know what you mean, I was looking at the video you linked and my acylic tanks, and thought totally invisible seams were necessary to get a good bond.


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## iwade4fish (Jan 5, 2009)

prov356 said:


> Nice filter CITADELGRAD87. :thumb: It'll serve you well for years and years. You've got biocapacity to burn there, buddy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Brilliant, didn't wrap my head around it first, thanks for that picture, prov3:5,6. I totally get the concept now, wow, did I waste some time as well!!


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## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

iwade4fish said:


> prov356 said:
> 
> 
> > Nice filter CITADELGRAD87. :thumb: It'll serve you well for years and years. You've got biocapacity to burn there, buddy.
> ...


IME, this was difficult to do on thinner pieces of acrylic (3/16").. On 1/2" though - that razor blade absolutely is the way to go...

My issue on the 3/16" is that it was very hard to keep the blade flat on the surface.. It had a tendancy to slip & roll on the edges.. Basically undoing what I had just accomplished..

I ended up stapling a piece of 400 wet sand paper to a flat piece of wood that fit in my hand easily. These pieces were only 32" long though. Had the acrylic been 4-6 ft in length, it would have taken forever!


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