# So I found some salvages glass. Help needed.



## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

I got a good deal on some salvaged glass 48x15" panels at 1/4". What I want to do with it is make a glass sump 48"x15"x15". I need advice as to whether 1/4" is thick enough for what I'm planning. The guy wasn't sure if it was tempered or not so I'm going to act on the assumption that it isn't. If I get some positive responses from the glass pros I'm gonna go pick up the pieces and get it started.

Thanks


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

Can someone also provide me a good DIY article on the siliconing process?

Thanks


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

I have some 48" x 12" x 12" tanks I built with 3/16" glass. They held together even when the center braces popped. I would place the finished tank on a layer of styro over plywood. 
Better make sure the glass is not tempered, before trying to cut it.


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

BillD said:


> I have some 48" x 12" x 12" tanks I built with 3/16" glass. They held together even when the center braces popped. I would place the finished tank on a layer of styro over plywood.
> Better make sure the glass is not tempered, before trying to cut it.


Thanks for the advice. The glass is not tempered I found out. After consulting a few ppl the cutting process should be a breeze. I'm going to put a centre brace in just for a safety factor. I haven't quite figured out my baffle arrangment. I plan to build the tank first and figure out the baffles later. With any luck I'll start this thing this weekend.

For sure this is going on a 1" sheet of styro


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## rapfish (Sep 1, 2010)

cool


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

If you add glass baffles, you may not need the centre brace.


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

BillD said:


> If you add glass baffles, you may not need the centre brace.


excellent point. I'm going to get the glass tonight.


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## Gervahlt (Jun 25, 2009)

Yes, 1/4" glass will be just fine for that size. The baffles can replace the center brace. To give you some perspective on the thickness, most 55g tanks are made out of 1/4" glass now and they're about 21" high, so your 15" sump will do just fine.

If you want an actual thickness calculator, you can go here (there's a download for an Excel file at the bottom if you don't want all the math): http://www.fnzas.org.nz/index.php?PG=glass1


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

Thanks to all that have responded. I have the glass in my possession and I'll be cutting the end pieces tonight and if I'm feeling lucky I may begin assembly tonight. Is rubbing alcohol OK to use to clean the surface of glass before siliconing?

Thanks


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## Gervahlt (Jun 25, 2009)

I don't know the answer to that, but I do know that acetone is.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

Clean the glass well, using a window cleaner as it is the last time you will be able to do that.Clean the area to be siliconed with alcohol or acetone. i have used both. It is mainly to get any skin oils off.


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

Thanks guys... I'm probably going to start the build tomorrow. I'll start a new thread and post some pics of the results. Thanks again for all the help


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

Ok guys I built the tank. The glass cutting was a learning experience but I managed to make some decent cuts which worked out well.

Man oh man did I over do it on the silicone. It didn't look like a whole lot while I was applying it but when I spooned it out it was excessive. She looks ugly, but, hopefully this thing is gonna hold water and ultimately be a money saving success. If it were for a display tank I would've taped it all out. Oh well.

Here's a pic


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## hsd (Jul 26, 2010)

That's a lot of silicone!  Did you sand the edges of the glass? Last thing you want is cutting yourself every time you go into the tank!


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

Yeah like I said this was my first time and when I was applying the silicone it didn't look like much.

The factory edges are all facing up so no worries about getting in and out of the tank


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

That is a little excessive. The important silicone is what is between the pieces of glass. The inner fillet is only a secondary seal, so doesn't need to be large. However, if it was applied well it should not be a problem. Worst case scenario, you remove it and redo. It may interfere with the placing of your baffles if you are going right to the bottom. Still, well done.


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

how tough is it to scrape off and do again. I'm pretty confident it's going to hold water. This was a learning experience for me and I've learned a lesson about applying too much. I'll test fill tomorrow or Tuesday and if she's good to go then she's staying.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

If you are going to fill it to the top, I would add some sort of temporary brace for the top. My only concern for the big bead is that it may be layered and will allow water to penetrate over time. When I did my 90, I had the hole on the tube as large as possible and couldn't come close to gunning out the amount of silicone you did, in one layer.


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

Bill, It was one slow application. I'm considering scraping it off and re-sealing it.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

If you do decide to redo, use razor blades to remove the silicone. A bead of around 1/4" to 3/8" is more than enough to seal that tank. The smaller bead is also much easier to smooth evenly, allowing you to get a nice feathered edge, and ensuring the silicone is pressed right into the joint. It shouldn't be that hard to remove the silicone, although it will take time. There are removal tools that might work well to remove those beads, although I haven't tried one yet. If that was my tank I would redo it, but that is just me. You could look at it as an opportunity to get better at it before the next job.


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## af0h (Sep 1, 2010)

I'm curious to see how this turns out.

Rob


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

BillD said:


> If you do decide to redo, use razor blades to remove the silicone. A bead of around 1/4" to 3/8" is more than enough to seal that tank. The smaller bead is also much easier to smooth evenly, allowing you to get a nice feathered edge, and ensuring the silicone is pressed right into the joint. It shouldn't be that hard to remove the silicone, although it will take time. There are removal tools that might work well to remove those beads, although I haven't tried one yet. If that was my tank I would redo it, but that is just me. You could look at it as an opportunity to get better at it before the next job.


Thanks for the advice. Yeah I've decided to redo it and chaulk it up as a learning experience. I'm assuming I won't have to redo the butt seal is this correct?



af0h said:


> I'm curious to see how this turns out.
> 
> Rob


your curious to see how the reseal turns out?


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

The butt seal should be fine. A bead the size you used for your butt joints should be sufficient for the inner seals.


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