# 350 Bio Wheel Filter options



## gobigo7 (Jan 18, 2013)

What do you guys run in your 350 or 400 bio wheel filters when you dont want to use carbon I would like to make it a mechanical filter only so the filter inserts for the 350 has carbon I just want a sleeve that will trap debris any ideas on how or what I could put in that would work without carbon sleeves.


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

When I was using these filters, still have them but not in use, I simply removed the carbon by pulling the top part of the filter fabric away from the plastic casing and pouring out the carbon. This filter has 4 slots for cartridges with two on each side. You can do that with all four and you can take a sheet of blue/white filter media and cut it to fit and slide it in front of the cartridges(after the water leaves the cartridge) because there isn't much space in behind the cartridges and if you put anything back there it will cause a ton of bypass as the water only has a small space to try and fill up that bay.

You could also simply remove the cartridges and fill with filter floss or with the blue/white pads I mentioned above. Your LFS or chain store should have both the blue/white pads in sheets or rolls and packages of filter floss.


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## metricliman (Sep 3, 2012)

You could cut out the carbon, or use one of these:


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## gobigo7 (Jan 18, 2013)

You are talking about the cartridges that has the blue stiched pad correct If I buy just the blue pad that you cut to size how do I get it to stay in the slots of the filter with out a frame?


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## mbamba_boy (May 12, 2012)

I only run one of these at the moment (replacing them with fluval c4). I was going to try and cut a Rena xp 20 or 30 ppi pad to fit


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

gobigo7 said:


> You are talking about the cartridges that has the blue stiched pad correct If I buy just the blue pad that you cut to size how do I get it to stay in the slots of the filter with out a frame?


Yes....you can just pull the stitching apart from the plastic at the top on pour the carbon out. If you do that then just place the blue/white pads, rolled up is how I did it, in front of the cartridges. Again when I say in front I mean the side of the cartridge closest the bio-wheel.


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## gobigo7 (Jan 18, 2013)

well they say to put the pad on the back side not on the bio wheel side why do you think that side


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

gobigo7 said:


> well they say to put the pad on the back side not on the bio wheel side why do you think that side


I am not sure why they say that but there is zero room to put a pad on that side of the pad. If you stuff filter material on that side it will not filter very well. If you look down inside the well where it exits the impeller there is only a very small space for the water to move and spread out so it can use the entire surface area of the cartridge. Put the filter material on the biowheel side of the cartridge.


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## Doyoulikefishsticks (Jan 10, 2013)

I've also read about people just using 6x9" scotchbrite pads in the filter slots, instead of the blue/carbon filled things. I read they fit right into the filter slot, but it is probably better to tie the pads to the black plastic frame of the filter you are talking about not wanting to use. Although, what metricliman posted a picture of below seems like a pretty good option for replacing the stock filters.



metricliman said:


> You could cut out the carbon, or use one of these:


Do you run four of those in all filter slots? Or do you put something else in the grey clamshell cartridges? I've read people use crushed coral, or the quilt batting/filter floss. And, if the batting is used, I've read about people saying it reduces water flow significantly, to the point where the biowheels barely turn? Maybe someone can give their opinion on how well it works.

I for one think using the scotchbrite pads is a good idea. That, or maybe finding a specialty shop that might sell a higher quality quilt batting then Wal-Mart. Perhaps a better quality filling that wont reduce flow and get all bunched up as much.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

13razorbackfan said:


> When I was using these filters, still have them but not in use, I simply removed the carbon by pulling the top part of the filter fabric away from the plastic casing and pouring out the carbon. This filter has 4 slots for cartridges with two on each side. You can do that with all four and you can take a sheet of blue/white filter media and cut it to fit and slide it in front of the cartridges(after the water leaves the cartridge) because there isn't much space in behind the cartridges and if you put anything back there it will cause a ton of bypass as the water only has a small space to try and fill up that bay.
> 
> You could also simply remove the cartridges and fill with filter floss or with the blue/white pads I mentioned above. Your LFS or chain store should have both the blue/white pads in sheets or rolls and packages of filter floss.


^^^I agree with him. It's how i run some 170's, 350's, and 400's, and crazy cheap to replace the pillow stuffing. Only thing i do different though is i have a lower layer of ceramic rings with the pillow stuffing on top, with some foam on top of that cut in various shapes, and sizes. Using the plastic shell to those filter cartridges as gates/barrier walls which never need replacing btw, you can treat those void space between as mini-media baskets. Fill them with w/e :thumb:


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## metricliman (Sep 3, 2012)

Doyoulikefishsticks said:


> Although, what metricliman posted a picture of below seems like a pretty good option for replacing the stock filters.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You can put whatever you want in the cartridges. It gives you the flexibility to put whatever you want in the filer.


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## gobigo7 (Jan 18, 2013)

Doyoulikefishsticks said:


> I've also read about people just using 6x9" scotchbrite pads in the filter slots, instead of the blue/carbon filled things. I read they fit right into the filter slot, but it is probably better to tie the pads to the black plastic frame of the filter you are talking about not wanting to use. Although, what metricliman posted a picture of below seems like a pretty good option for replacing the stock filters.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The 350 bio wheel filter doesnt have the grey clam shell cartridges only the 400 I understand what all you guys are saying but how do you keep the blue/white filter pads on the cartridges that you empty the carbon out of tie them with something?


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

gobigo7 said:


> The 350 bio wheel filter doesnt have the grey clam shell cartridges only the 400 I understand what all you guys are saying but how do you keep the blue/white filter pads on the cartridges that you empty the carbon out of tie them with something?


Don't pull all the fabric off the plastic housing. Just pull apart the top, gently, and dump out the carbon. Then take the filter material whether it filter floss, blue/white filter pad, etc...and just stuff if it in on the biowheel side of the cartridge. I took blue/white sheets, rolled them up and when rolled up it is rigid enough to stay in place. If you still have a hard time understanding then I will pull my filter out of storage and show you what I am talking about. Just let me know.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

The 350 dosnt have the clamshell correct, but it will hold the same filter cartridge as the 400. I've done a ton of HOB filter mods over the years, and i'l post what i've done which has all worked by the way to give you an idea of what you can do. Those carbon cartridges are a total waste of money, completely unnecessary, and carbon can cause more harm then good really.

Here's one of the more recent mods on a EMP 400 i have running. I filled the clamshell with pillow stuff, with a reusable filter pad in front, and filled the void before that with ceramic rings, and sponge pieces. It's a bit opposite of how most would have their mechanical filtration setup but so far its working good, and more experimenting with it at the moment. 









Here's another mod i did with a EMP 400, each side being different. 1 side being more mechanical, the other more biological using the skeleton of the filter cartridge as a retaining wall.

















Here's another EMP 400 i put filter pad in the back, clamshell with pillow stuffing in the middle, and spong in front over ceramic rings with a UV dumping onto a sponge on one side









Here's a current running 350 MOD
Filter cartridge as a retaining wall, pillow stuffing over ceramic rings, and sponge pieces









Here's some 170 mods i've done in the past, and the first 2 recent


































A old whisper 30 filter using the white filter cartridge the others posted above as a retaining wall, and utilizing it owns polypad


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

13razorbackfan said:


> gobigo7 said:
> 
> 
> > The 350 bio wheel filter doesnt have the grey clam shell cartridges only the 400 I understand what all you guys are saying but how do you keep the blue/white filter pads on the cartridges that you empty the carbon out of tie them with something?
> ...


EDIT: you don't want to actually stuff the cartridge itself. I mean to stuff it in the filter on that side of the cartridge. The poster above also has a good way^^^^^. Either would work fine.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Excellent pictures from CrypticLifeStyle, thanks for sharing them. I do much better with pics than I do with written explanations.


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## pfoster74 (May 13, 2012)

how often should i change the ammo chips slash carbon media in these filters? currently been doing it about every 4 weeks.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Most carbon in those cartridges are only effective for a week, no idea about zeolite. Both are a waste of money.


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## pfoster74 (May 13, 2012)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> Most carbon in those cartridges are only effective for a week, no idea about zeolite. Both are a waste of money.


what would you suggest i use instead?


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Well what are you concerns with your tank?


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## pfoster74 (May 13, 2012)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> Well what are you concerns with your tank?


just want to do what is best for tank and for the fish. on my 125g i'm running 2 emperor 400, and 2 fluval u4. 75g running emperor 400, a top fin 75, and a fluval u4. other 75g running 2 emperor 400, and a fluval u4. 55g running a top fin 60 and a emperor 280. on last 55g running 2 top fin 60, and an old school underground filter.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Biological filtration to me to the #1 priority, then mechanical, chemical as needed. I've never owned a fluvial anything so I'm not familiar with them but if its a hob then I'm sure it can't be different then the general concept, and design if all hob's. Hobs with only cartridges are merely mechanical filtration with chemical filtration inside it solely relying on the bio wheel like your 400's, and colonizing in the filter housing as a whole.

With carbon being such **** IMO, and it's short term ability before it stops working, and the risk it holds for hith it really isn't worth it. Most reputable shops, and breeders won't use carbon for those reasons. Only if truly needed. 400's have so much capacity to use for so much better potential. Maximizing the space with cheap mods like being said thus far is the best route for all hob's. My ideal mod design for the 400 I want to do next is split the grey clamshell with one side of it in the front slot with the protruding part facing you, and the other half in the second slot, same direction. Fill the void behind in the very back with pillow stuffing for mechanical filtration. You can grab a huge bag of pillow stuffing in any craft store for a few bucks, " wicked cheap ". 
Then fill the void between the clamshell halves with a bottom layer a couple inches thick with seachem matrix which is inert, and can be used pretty much indefinitely, and can be cleaned as needed very easily, then top off the matrix with ceramic rings to the top of the clamshell. The area for bacteria growth becomes huge. Making the 400 so much more efficient.

You can use the same principal for all hobs, and get creative with it. It works better for your tank, and saves you a ton of money in the long run. I saw seachem matrix, 4 liters yesterday at kensfish for $25. That's a lot of matrix, and one time purchase. I'm partial to fluvals ceramic rings.

If your using zeolite for ammonia level that's better addressed with other measures.


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## cichlid-gal (Apr 27, 2012)

Sorry I missed this post...good info being shared. I have a couple of the 350's running on some tanks and like CyrpticLifeStyle I have a different setup in the back of them. I use the same clamshell piece as him, the Marineland Cartridge Media Refill Fits for the Penguin 200/350

Looking at the filter from the front of the tank...there is the wheel, then I place the clamshell directly behind the wheel, and I use Poret foam cut to size and Matrix behind the clamshells. So

_Slot 1 place polishing (whatever type you use will work) in clamshell and bagged Matrix behind the clamshell (I fill the area up pretty good making sure I have Matrix from the bottom of the filter up to top of clamshell ... sometimes I have to use a couple of bags depending on the size of the bags).

Slot 2 place polishing in the clamshell and foam behind the clamshell. I get my 350 to cover both bio and mechanical this way._

Just another option. This setup has been working great for me for quite some time.


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## pfoster74 (May 13, 2012)

ok ty both for the tips. i will change up the way i'm doing the filtration.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Anything more pm one of us. I love filter modding, and helping with it. I want everyone liberated from carbon, and cartridge buying haha. There should be a sticky thread just for the subject


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## falcooo (Dec 2, 2012)

Modifying a HOB filter is something i never really thought to do. i have been running a 350 for a while now and done nothing more than replace the same brand filter pads and adding carbon. But I have read this thread and am intrigued by the concept. Do certain media have specific benefits? And what are the reasons the modified HOB filters are more efficient than the stock ones? The primary goal is merely to filter out the unwanted debris, right? Thanks.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Most modifications are done to eliminate using the cartridges due their cost versus DIY.


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## badspellar (Oct 14, 2009)

We've thought about putting a little heater in ours. It seems like a nice spot for good distribution, plus eliminates equipment from the tank. We keep the house fairly warm so we dont need large heaters. Any tried a heater?


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

falcooo said:


> Modifying a HOB filter is something i never really thought to do. i have been running a 350 for a while now and done nothing more than replace the same brand filter pads and adding carbon. But I have read this thread and am intrigued by the concept. Do certain media have specific benefits? And what are the reasons the modified HOB filters are more efficient than the stock ones? The primary goal is merely to filter out the unwanted debris, right? Thanks.


To dramatically increase biological filtration with multiple options, some of it mechanical, but mainly biological, and save money. I'm very anti-carbon, and personally see the cartridges as a complete rip off that can potentially lead to multiple problems, while dishing out 
Ridiculous money for them, and not maximizing the large space available in 400's and 350's in this case. Filters yes filter out debris, but biological processing within them is the #1 importance factor. Increasing the biological processing, healthier tank, more forgiven maintenance, happier fish.


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## dledinger (Mar 20, 2013)

I have several cartridges that I have cut the factory stuff off. I use quilt batting from walmart attached with rubber bands, or blue bonded ploy. The bonded poly is nicer and reusable, the batting is dirt cheap and I don't have to get my hands near as dirty. Both work well...and I wont but another cartridge ever.


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