# Peer review for 177G Malawi Cichlid Sump Design



## adampowers22 (Nov 19, 2015)

Hi all, looking for comments and/or feedback on this sump design:

http://siclid.net/2016/03/25/40g-malawi ... mp-design/

See post for more details and comment here please (not the blog). THANKS!!


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## somebody (May 13, 2014)

Overall the design of the sump isn't bad. I would remove the carbon and in that section do, in order from top to bottom, sponge(20ppi)-floss-purigen.

Are you doing that whole tank or is that just a design you found you like?


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## dledinger (Mar 20, 2013)

You've taken on quite the project. Someone here was considering an "L" shaped tank and abandon the idea. I think it was fmeuller (spelling?).

If my memory serves me right, the "L" is complicated with settling, and some issue about not being able to see in the corner.

Maybe you have addressed these things, just thought I'd mention them in case.

Your sump will work fine. I'd probably use a 55, but that's just preference. Are you going to use all that media at once, or just want the capability?


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## adampowers22 (Nov 19, 2015)

Thanks guys. That design is original from me. The graphic and all. So any flaws or fails are mine alone. 

I'm down for removing the carbon. The main reason it's in there is due to my crazy family (I have 4 kids) and their propensity to put pollutants and other problem substances in the air. I need a way to "fix" these household contaminant issues. I'm no using a tank cover to speak of other than netting.

The L design is definitely challenging but man it'll look great it I can make it work. The various camera angles I can achieve for the stream should be amazing. I am a little concerned with the corner of the L being hard to see but much of that space will be taken up by the 3D background and overflow box so I'm hoping that won't be a problem.

As it relates to settling I'm employing 2x Rio 1100Gph undergravel jets. Same design I'm using in my current tank with a few mods. This will keep the substrate incredibly clean. I've had a great deal of luck with the current 75G using this approach.

Also in addition to the sump itself I'm running a pair of Fluval 406 386Gph canister filters on each end of the L. Expensive yes but the canisters are already paid for so might as well make use of them. The amount of filtration in this tank will top 2000Gph when the sump and canisters are all running. I know this Gph rate seems excessive but I want to be able to keep a massively overpopulated tank without worrying about stressing the fish due to nitrates and ammonia. Note that I'm using a Seneye system to monitor ammonia, ph, and a temp in realtime.

Lastly, I'm also adding a continuous drip system with intent of rotating about 15-20 gallons per day through the tank. This will greatly reduce water changes and ensure I don't get overrun by nitrates and that my relatively small sump doesn't dip due to evaporation.


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## dledinger (Mar 20, 2013)

adampowers22 said:


> I know this Gph rate seems excessive...


No, it doesn't. You're right where you need to be.


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## somebody (May 13, 2014)

Agreed 2000 gph is the lest I would do. Carbon tends to hold chemicals and if not regularly changed it can leech into the system. Just run carbon when you dose mess to remove them.

The overall design is good. I see no flaws though one would put a few more outputs (4 total) on each end and run 1 inch pipe. The overflow is going to have to be around 1 1/2 inch. I'm running 1 inch and it's perfect for my 1100 gph (approx) flow.


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## Handyjoe (Jan 11, 2015)

Please note the water level from the dividers. The last one in particular.


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## somebody (May 13, 2014)

Good catch joe. The water level maintained in the output chamber will be the level of the last baffle. A way to raise it would be to put your ato at the desired level that way it can maintain that level.

Upon further review I did notice you have bio balls and under it k2. Which one are you doing? Bio balls were design to be in the dru portion of a wet dry filter though they will work either way. If you are doing k2 (kaldess) then they are fine with being submerged though you do need superior circulation to keep the media moving. Either way you go I'm sure it will work because bacteria adhere to the surface of said media. I plan on making my next sump with a large moving bed filter. Maybe being such a large tank it would be worth reconsidering.


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## adampowers22 (Nov 19, 2015)

Hi guys, thanks SO MUCH for the feedback. Exactly what I was looking for.

dledinger (regarding Gph): That's good because I like a lot of moving water with these Mbunas. Plus they are messy as heck and I want to keep MANY. Like 100+. It's worth nothing that in addition to the 1200Gph sump I also have a Fluval 406 on each end plus continuous drip PLUS 1400Gph pre-filtered undergravel jets. These fish will be squeaky clean.

somebody (regarding the K2 section): That "K2" was something of a place-holder. I hasn't thought all that much about the actual media. I figured that research could wait as long as I included lots of room for "something". K2 balls at first glance seemed okay due to the amount of water movement but yeah after reading that's not good work well. Any suggestions on what media to select here? Price isn't really a concern.

Handyjoe (regarding water level): Thanks Joe. This is the part that I am missing practical knowledge on. I've never actually seen one of these up close so my knowledge is all "on paper" and via YouTube. I wasn't sure what the last chamber would look like when in operation. Can I make the last 4" baffle taller? Perhaps 8"? I need that chamber to keep a fair amount of water for the heaters, fry, pump, etc.

Since I posted this I've increased the size to 45x18x15. The width and depth went up but the height down slightly. I'm worried that the sump will be hard to clean and maintain if I don't give myself enough room below the main tank. The space available is 22". 15" will give me 7" to squeeze in and out of. Should be okay. The other thing I guess I forget is that a sump can be emptied, pulled out, and cleaned. Perhaps not easily so but it can be done. So maybe I'll end up going back to 16" or 17". Decisions. I'm ordering ALL of the glass for the project on May 1st. $1600 worth of low-iron, tempered glass. Ouch.

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One last thing... If you have some more time and would like to critique something else for this project check out this post. Just finished last night:

https://siclid.net/2016/04/13/advanced- ... -cichlids/

This topic I'm more comfortable with as I've been deeply involved in lighting and electronics since the start of this project 540 days ago. The lighting setup is going to be AMAZING.


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## adampowers22 (Nov 19, 2015)

Hi folks! quick update... the sump is done! (mostly) Check out this overview and final design vid for more info:






Special thanks to handyjoe for all the help.


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