# 9 x 20 gallon long breeder rack



## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

Hi all,

I designed this in Sketchup just now. I was wondering if you guys think it's safe and sturdy? Basically, it's all 2x4s. I plan on using exterior grade deck screws to attach. No glue, since I need to be able to disassemble.

Screenshot of design


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## gmaschke (Aug 23, 2008)

Looks like you've got your weight on wood instead of screws so It will be plent sturdy. Because its narrow I'd anchor it to a wall if possible. I may be a little too cautious though as it isn't tall so it will prob be fine.

Nice plans


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

Thanks for the reply. I was also worried about topover so I added a "toe" to the bottom to prevent it from falling over... I don't think I can anchor it to the wall since I'm just leasing...

Also, I added plywood "rails" to prevent tank from sliding around... not sure if that's necessary


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

Also, in order to conserve money, would this design work alright, if I used 4 wood screws at each overlapping area for strength?

Light design

or I could use large carriage bolts instead...wait, carriage bolts would probably cost more than 3x 2x4s


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

I would assemble a "knock-down" stand with carriage bolts since deck screws are not going to back out in many cases and you want to reuse the stands.

The toe riders are a tripping hazard. I would raise up the bottom higher off the ground and bring it forward enough that you don't need much space between it and the next higher shelf, since you have a stairstep effect. Another way to conserve wood and have a strong tank stand, is to turn the tanks so that the ends face front. That way you have reduced the wall space needed by the stand, and made the stand more stable.


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

What diameter carriage bolts do you recommend?

I would prefer to keep them front-facing since I have the wall space. I will experiment with making a stairstep effect.


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## kerbchek (Apr 1, 2008)

Personally I like your first skech-up better... you could always have the toe riders go out toward the back of the rack too, at least a few inches. I like some space behind the tanks for hoses, wires for heaters and/or lights... Then it wouldn't need to stick out far out the front, avoiding the trip hazard.

I built two narrow stands and they're both "L" shaped, no fear of tipping at all...

I built a stand that holds 3 20 longs and it's pretty tall... I like at least 7 or 8 inches between the top of the tank rim and the bottom of the shelf above it... for elbow room. you may consider using 2x3's instead of 2x4's for your horizontal boards, doesn't give much extra space, but every inch counts... Plenty strong in my opinion, especially with vertiacal support between each tank. I'd stick with 2x4's for the verticals though so you have enough space to screw in securely. Could you "notch" out where the horizontal board would fit into the vertical support?

I like the sketch ups you did... I'm not that talented on the computer, or have the right program... I've only tried Google Sketch Up.... and gave up everytime !


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

Thanks for the tips. Now, I'm thinking that 9 tanks might be too many. Right now I'm designing a triple-story, double-wide (six tanks).


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## ashilli48 (May 14, 2006)

You can also use 2x4's in conjunction with cinder blocks, this allows for a sturdy design that is also quickly disassembled. Of course my motivation has been from moving 3 times inside of 12 months.

I was hoping to find some pictures online but could not.

Basically you stand the cinder blocks so that the holes are facing inside. You run the 2x4's through the holes to creat each level. You stack the subsequent blocks depending on much of an opening you need at each level.


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## kerbchek (Apr 1, 2008)

jwal said:


> I'm thinking that 9 tanks might be too many.


What?? You can never have too many tanks!!! :wink:


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

I can't really think of how to make the bottom come out (i.e. stair step) without making the stand a lot more complicated. Do you know of any similar designs I can look at?


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

Well, here's the modified version. I have the bottom board sticking out 2" front and back to reduce tripping hazard. Also, I made it 4" shorter, with 8" gap between shelves.

I will use carriage bolts for the long 9 foot rails to make it easier to take apart for when I have to move.

Screenshot of modified version

and I thought this was cool...a mock up of what it will look like in my room:

Screenshot of mock up

I was planning on using sponge filters for the 9 tanks. Does anyone know of a good central air pump that's quiet? I was looking at this model from Jehmco:


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## con-man-dan (Aug 19, 2006)

If you have the room for a few extra inches on the overall length...I would build 3 seperate 3x20L racks. Do it the same way you have set up, but if you make 3 racks instead of 1 large one, when it comes time to move you won't have to totally tear everything down to move them. I only mention this since you said you lease. And it gives you more spacing options in the future, like 2 racks on one wall and 1 rack on another in an L shape. My racks have about 5" of clearance between top and bottom, and it can be a little tight sometimes getting larger decos in there like drift wood or larger clay pots. But my rack is built on cinder blocks so I'm a bit limited on my space, its either juuuust a bit small or much more then needed which puts the 3rd row too high to work in without a step stool


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

I like the idea of 3 separate racks... I made a new simplified design that should use less wood. 
Anyone know a good way to notch a 2x4 cut in the middle of the board? Maybe a jigsaw, but I'm not sure if it will be able to cut through the wood. :?

Screenshot of modular design


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## gmaschke (Aug 23, 2008)

Of the 2 pumps you listed from jehmco I have the mod. DAMPH-15 and it works great and is quieter than most other pumps on my tanks in other rooms. I have 2-40g and 6 fry tanks as well as 2 lines running to jars that I hatch brineshrimp in then free lines for egg tumblers and such. I highly recommend it.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

It will be difficult to start a siphon in the bottom tanks for water changes, unless you raise the bottom shelf higher.

I still feel uneasy seeing the tripper bars at the bottom. Instead I would add a vertical 2 by 4 at the back that goes up to the ceiling at either end of the display. If the tanks tip, the boards would brace against the ceiling.


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## con-man-dan (Aug 19, 2006)

the siphon CAN be hard to get started on low level tanks, but if you're using a python, like I do, I just turn both hot and cold knobs full blast until I see suction, then carefully turn off the hot. It will be slower then the upper tanks, but still get the job done without much fuss....unless you lose suction that is


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

Mcdaphnia said:


> It will be difficult to start a siphon in the bottom tanks for water changes, unless you raise the bottom shelf higher.
> 
> I still feel uneasy seeing the tripper bars at the bottom. Instead I would add a vertical 2 by 4 at the back that goes up to the ceiling at either end of the display. If the tanks tip, the boards would brace against the ceiling.


great ideas... I might get a Python cleaner but I would actually prefer the bottom tanks a little higher. I will redesign


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

Ok, here's another revision with the bottom tanks higher off the ground for better siphon. the bottom tank is 9.5" off the ground. There is now 7" clearance between shelves and tanks. Rim of top tank will be 5'6.5" off the ground, which should be manageable since I'm pretty tall. There is now a 2x4 in the midpoint of the back that will touch the ceiling. Theoretically, if it's close enough to the ceiling, it would be impossible for the stand to start tipping forward.

Screenshot

I'm not sure I like the appearance of the boards sticking up like that. :?


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## kerbchek (Apr 1, 2008)

I think it looks great. Very nice plans. I'm anxious to see photos of the actual set-up!!


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

jwal said:


> ...Ok, here's another revision with the bottom tanks higher off the ground for better siphon. the bottom tank is 9.5" off the ground. There is now 7" clearance between shelves and tanks.
> Screenshot
> 
> I'm not sure I like the appearance of the boards sticking up like that. :?


 1. Paint them the same color as the wall and they will not be as noticeable. 2. You could use plywood or paneling instead. 3. You could use them to attach some shallow shelves or even cabinets for storing fish stuff, and if you want, even attaching the lights for the top tanks under the lowest shelf.

If you are going to use hang-on power filters on the tank, you could turn the boards sideways to hold the stand out more from the wall. I would carriage bolt the three stands together and that way you only need one two-by at each back corner and have more stability.


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

good ideas, thanks... I should probably paint the whole stand the wall color.

I can't wait to build :dancing:


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## con-man-dan (Aug 19, 2006)

Have you though about how you will light/heat/filter each tank? If you have the space between the tanks, I would use 4ft double tube shop lights, cheap and effective! You can always paint the housing to match. I would also suggest sponge and/or box filters and a small linear pump. If you shop around you can probably filter all 9 tanks under 150$ and use less electricity then running 9 seperate filters. Actually....if you used the shop lights, with heaters that would work out to 12 plugs, which means 1 outlet with 2 powerstrips will get your heat and light, you can always use another socket to run your pump, which would allow you some leverage on where you place it


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

I was deciding between sponge filters and building a central filtration type system. I wonder what most people do. 9 heaters would be expensive. I am looking into the LPH26 linear air pump at jehmco, however, it is pricey and more than I need. I am still in the planning stages.


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## con-man-dan (Aug 19, 2006)

With only 9 20 gals, you'll be better off using sponges and a single pump. Oversize the sponges too, like in my 30 breeders I use hyrdo 5s, which are rated for +80 gal. But you could easily use Hydro 3's and have plenty. Make sure you get the short lift tubes, in 12" tall tanks the standard tubes are too tall. Keep looking around, especially at pond/water garden sites, you can find really great deals on pumps. The jehmco pumps are nice but they are pricey. Check into alita, super quiet and cheap. Jehmco and kensfish sell the proper valves for 1$ or under, a couple feet of pvc, some joints, a couple fittings and some air tubing to hook up to the pymp and you are in business!

You can get bulk discounts on heaters through places like jemco, big als and kensfish. 50 watts you can probably pick up what you need under 10$ each.

Also if you don't already have the tanks, use glass tops, not the typical hinged plastic tops. Aquarium guys sell long sections of the joints, cut them to length, then have the hardware store cut your glass. Again, saving money! Don't buy tops is all I am saying, buying even glass lids will run you about 30$ each, when you can make all 9 for around that price.


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

thanks for the advice I will check it out. :dancing:


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## dreday (Oct 12, 2007)

i like your design. i like the last one with 3 separate racks. i lease too and am planing on a rack. something with 20s or 29s. now for your design are the tanks sitting on the horizontal boards or are they sunk in a little?

just wondering because it seems they might slip off if you bump the stand. i have 3 cats the go crazy and makes me think about stuff falling all the time.

also is cutting notches in the wood give more support or save space? i mean what is the benefit of doing it.


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## jwal (Jan 17, 2008)

dreday said:


> i like your design. i like the last one with 3 separate racks. i lease too and am planing on a rack. something with 20s or 29s. now for your design are the tanks sitting on the horizontal boards or are they sunk in a little?
> 
> just wondering because it seems they might slip off if you bump the stand. i have 3 cats the go crazy and makes me think about stuff falling all the time.
> 
> also is cutting notches in the wood give more support or save space? i mean what is the benefit of doing it.


I am planning on having the front/back rim of the tanks sitting directly on the 2x4s. If you are worried about bumping and sliding of the tanks I would attach either small pieces of scrap wood in the 4 corners or, if you have a large piece of plywood, you can use plywood across the length of the tanks. I'm not really worried about the tanks sliding since I have no cats or dogs or anything that might cause trouble.

The notches in the 2x4 improve the strength of the stand because of the wood-on-wood design. The wood itself is supporting the rails and not screws, nails, and/or glue. I am going to test and see if I can cut a notch with a jigsaw in the middle. I have cut notches at the end of a board with a band saw with success, but not in the middle of a board. I suppose the notches also give the stands a slightly neater appearance since the wood is more flush.


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