# ACRYLIC QUESTION?



## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

i just notice that my empty acrylic tank on the patio, one one side of the seems on the top panel the color did not look as clear as the others, it was looking kind of dry like if was sanded, i put my mouth and try to make pressure with air and i notice i was going truth, next thing i did was to push saliva with the mouth and i notice that the saliva wet the seem from side to side, so that means that the seem in that spot is toast or gone you name it.

i have never fill with water this tank, i knew was a possibility it may leak, but this thing i am sure must be a way to solve it. is there a way to inject the seem so it will glue back.

Or this is something that when it happens you are done with the tank?
i bought this tank used, i had it for a year, i was getting ready to start it, any suggestions?


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## Stickzula (Sep 14, 2007)

clean it really well with rubbing alcohol. then get some acrylic solvent and an applicator (syringe). Then inject the solvent into the crack, but be careful to only get it on the seam. You will have to clamp it together until it dries. Once dry it should be fixed.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

the tank is 8 foot long and 1 inch thick, i do have that problem only on 3 foot on the top, there is no way to lift the acrylic and clean it up, i guess i can inyect alcohol with a syringe as much as i can and let it dry and then inyect the acrylic solvent. is there a particular brand of the acrylic solvent to be used or just ask for it like that at store?


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

the gap where the seem became lose or dry is so thin, that not even the thickness of a plastic bag will go trougth.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

It's going to be very difficult to get those surfaces clean enough for the acrylic solvent to work. You may make it worse by trying. Theoretically, it could work, but not sure if it's practical. I also believe the solvent would inevitably run down the side of the tank, ruining the surface. It's like water. If applied extremely carefully, you could get to draw inside the seam without running down the side, but difficult to do. If you flipped the tank so the joint was facing down and set the tank up on something, might work. The solvent is drawn into the seam through capillary action. You don't have to get an applicator into the seam. Typically you use a syringe type of injector or bottle with a syringe type needed. See here. I like the bottle type myself. Only problem with this is it's working against gravity. I have seen solvent run up hill for a couple of inches though via capillary action. After applying the solvent and waiting about 40 seconds, you'd have to again turn the tank to apply pressure to the joint. I know it sounds involved and if you've not worked with acrylic welding, I wouldn't recommend this. If the seam was not real clean and smooth, this would not work well.

Just occurred to me that if you did this with the tank on it's top, you could eliminate the problem of solvent running down the side. It may still run to the top, but if this is not seen, it won't matter. You can also test this out by using water instead of solvent. You'll see how it's going to run into the joint and you can practice with it. You just have to dry it out real well before the real thing.

If the seam is not going to be seen because it's going to be covered by a canopy, you can try another option.

Get a piece of acrylic square stock, maybe 3/8" or so to weld into the inside corner of the bad seam. First flip the tank on it's front or back. If you can set it up on saw horses or something so you can flip it on it's top, even better. Apply a bit of weldon16, which is the thicker solvent that comes in a tube to the inside corner of the seam and then place the square stock in the corner. You'll need to press and hold it into place for a minute or two, and that's why it's best to flip the tank on it's top. You can set up some sort of weighting. Don't press so hard that the solvent all squirts out. You have to be very careful here as well because any surface the solvent touches, it'll deface it. The nice thing about this approach is that you can thoroughly clean the inside corner and then cover the surfaces that you want to protect with cardboard or poster board or something. Just cut some cardboard to fit and cover the surfaces you want to protect while leaving about 1" of the corner exposed. The smaller the square stock the less noticeable it'll be. Since this is the top seam, this could work well. I wouldn't recommend this for any other seams.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

prov, you seems to me like some one that really knows what is talking about,not like me :-? To flip over the tank is kind of difficult it weights empty like 800 pounds, right now is sitting on a metal stand so in other to make pressure after applying the solvent i was thinking tigth it down with one of those come along straps, go under the metal stand and then on top of the surface to be fix and make it close the gap some more, after applying the solvent.
in another hand concerning to the solvent running down on the wall of the tank, i was thinking making like a cover so if it runs down it will do it on the cover (maybe plastic with tape)
Now if the seems was not real clean and smooth you are taking the way i am going to prepare the surface cleaning it with alcohol right? the surface looks rough and dry now, i bet one day was crispy and clear, we move this tank like a 2 hours ride to gettit to my S.A. then i got park for a year i was thinking maybe the sun or was like that when i bought it ,then i move it to mi house another 30 minutes ride,i think they get weak with this moves.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

If the seam edges are rough, you'll never get the solvent to flow into the joint. If the joint failed, it wasn't a good joint to begin with. If done properly, it's almost as one piece. Test it with water to see if it will flow, but I really doubt this will work at all. I'd say incredibly unlikely that you could get the edges prepped for re-welding. I think the water test will show you, (you can even do this with a small watercolor paint brush) but If what I'm picturing is accurate, there's no way that joint is ready or can be made ready to re-weld. Do you have a pic of this?

I'd go with the corner bar stock fix. If that's unsightly, you could add a piece of trim to hide it. It'd also hide the water line. If you're able to hide it, then go with the biggest square stock piece you can. Don't skimp. 1/2" to 3/4" maybe. It's a good idea whatever you do to get some scrap and test welding pieces together to get a feel for it before you do the real thing. You've got one shot to get it right. When it grabs, it holds tight. A good way to ruin a joint or bond is by fiddling with it too long after joining pieces. It's not unusual to take an hour to prep a joint that takes a minute or so to do.

If I had an 8' long tank, I'd be doing what I could to make it work. And you're right, if it's 8X2X2 and an inch thick it's just about 800#. Calculator What a beast!  You gotta post a pic.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

i found the "weld on 3" and "weld on 16" the #3 is water thin and #16 medium, are both fish safe? they said the #3 is more for seems and the #16 more to be used like chocking on the edges, but the said they do no assure is fish safe, what do you think?


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> are both fish safe?


Fish safe meaning to use with fish in the tank? No. I wouldn't for lots of reasons. The fumes would be toxic to fish, I'd have to believe. Fish safe after curing? Yes, absolutely safe.

The solvent doesn't hang around, it evaporates. Before it does it 'melts' the acrylic a bit. When the two ends are joined, they cure into one. It's actual welding, not gluing. I believe, and I could be wrong, but I believe the thicker stuff is thicker because it has acrylic melted into it. I read where you can make your own thicker solvent by adding acrylic shavings to the thin, watery stuff. So anyway, what would be left after curing would be no more toxic to fish than the acrylic itself.

The thin stuff is for joints and the thicker would be used for things like adding the corner block, that's true.

There are DIY articles in the library section that talk about welding acrylic and you can also check my web site for info as well.

Do it yourself section

Buillding my acrylic tank


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

some one give me the instruccions to post a pic please i just can not do it


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

See this Guidelines and how to post pic


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

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## FloridaFishGuy (Oct 2, 2003)

You need to stick the URL of the image between the brackets.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)




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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)




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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)




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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Wow  That's got to be 30-36" tall. No wonder it's 1" thick. Can you get a pic or pics of the bad seam? Even if you had to have it professionally repaired, it's worth it. You've got a very expensive tank there. The acrylic alone would run close to $3K.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

i know it was a bleessing when i got it,that i coud not let it pass yes it is 1 inch thick,it is 96x36x48 i will get a pic tomorrow from the seam, i got into the tank today and if you push it up ward you can put a piece of paper on the gap, yes every sheet of acrylic will be 500 new


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## JJU (May 19, 2007)

What you can do to repair it is , take a strip of 1" and have it cut at either 1" square or cut at a 45degree angle. Put that in the corner and bond it useing weld on #16. It will work out :thumb: .


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## Hoosier Tank (May 8, 2007)

fish-photo-train said:


> i know it was a bleessing when i got it,that i coud not let it pass yes it is 1 inch thick,it is 96x36x48


What a great project! No wonder you didn't want to try flipping it over or standing it on its side...
I would try both, inject thin into the seam and let it wick into the gap as described by *prov356*, use your straps to clamp it as you mentioned ... then after it is cured glue some 1" stock over the repair as mentioned by *JJU*
I think your tape and plastic shield idea may be trouble though, hate to have them melted / glued to the side of your awesome tank!
Good luck! I'd offer to take it off your hands, but hate to think what the shipping charges would be


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## Hoosier Tank (May 8, 2007)

I still can't get over the size of that tank... I mean DANG! Lucky, lucky, lucky 8) 
But I gotta ask, did it come with the bottle of wine or was that needed after you found the bad seam?


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

As a few of you mentioned i am going to go weld the acrylic the way it is correct first probably using weld #16 where it let me do it and have #3 ready if at some spots do not let me do it
I also been considering what prov. said talk to the pro that sell acrylic on town see if he would like to come over look at it, they do not built aquariums like he said they call them close enclosures and we used them as fish tanks, they do not want to take the responsibility on the tank if they build them, but at least they deal with acrylic every other day and this will be my first experience    welding acrylic. The person there seems to be really cool i will talk to him to see if he wants to help me out, if he decides and do not want to charge a ton of dollars. The tank i know is worth to invested a little bit more, like i said before it was a blessing to get this tank, my wife is pushing me to get ready of it, but i told her, when i am going to have another tank like this, are you OK ? 
First i will do what any of you will do, get ready of her            
If the person that works there want to charge a lot, i will do it my self, the way i described above and if for some reason does not come perfect i will put the 1"x 1" acrylic stripe.
THANKS FOR ALL THE COMENTS, IT REALLY HEPLS A LOT AND GIVES YOU POSITIVE ENERGY


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

Yes the tank is big, like hoosier said, it is like having 4-200 gallons in one, i still have to make modifications to the door to make it go in, when i bought it it was 7 foot high, if i would put wheels at that time was going to be 7' 7". The stand alone was 3 foot and 4 foot the tank. I thought an easy way to move it and i decide to reduce the stand to 1 1/2 feet so i could go through the door, now is very easy to move with the wheels under net and the trailer yack on one side and i can flip the jack stand to the opposite side just removing 4 bolts, lift it up and take the wheels of each side of, put it on the exact spot i want, two persons can do it now.
the bad thing about is that now the sump will go on the side of it but i think i can live with that, maybe build a module to enclosure the sump and can be used as step to feed the guppies in it


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

It's bigger than it looks. That's over 1500# empty. With water, just under 4 tons. Is the house on a slab? Do you have a plan for locating this in the house? Tank weights don't usually worry me, but I'd be making sure with this one that the floor could support it.

If there is a basement and assuming you get the tank safely located, why not just put the sump in the basement? I'd be quieter and you'd have more options for sump size.


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## ercnan (Aug 13, 2006)

Good God !!!!!
I need a bath.    
Man I hope it's fixable, what an awesome piece of plastic.
Good luck, seriously.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

Well the tank came with a wet and dry like 75 gallons is 24"x48" with one tower, 40 gallons the bio media thing, it did not come with a pump do, but you can not have every thing, i have not done any thing to it today, we went to the after thanks giving sale. The house got an slab, so really do not think will affect it that all, i am looking to get probably a 3500 gallon/hr.pump


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Is the tank drilled? Since the tank has been lowered, will it still drain into the sump?

What are you thinking of keeping in this thing? I don't see where that's been mentioned yet.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

I was about to post about the tenants that will go in to that tank, and i am so :x :x :x :x :x :
I just found one of them on top of the glass cover, i do not know how he got there, well i do know i have a gap 1 1/2" on back of the 125 tank where the filters go, he jump from that gap and die on the glass cover, now i only have 18 of them, it was 2 1/2" maybe 3" had it for 10 months. IT WILL BE COLONY 18 FRONTS NOW. i may try to get 2 more later on the year to make 20 of them. I got 19 of them 10 months ago and this is the first one that die on me. :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

*fish-photo-train*

Just wondering if there was an update. Very interested in seeing this thing when it's all set up.

Sorry about the fish loss. Ever since you posted that, I've been more careful about closing feed holes.


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## TheeMon (May 11, 2004)

wow dude killer tank


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

Yes the tank was drill when i got it, it has 3 large holes for 1 1/4" 2 smaller holes for 3/4".
It has an over flow built on the center of tank 12" x 12"

On the 3 large holes i know for sure 2 of them were used for drains to the sump, the 2 bulkhead were attached 2 pipes drilled all way across that go inside the over flow , on the other large hole the bulkhead was attached to a pipe not drilled and 1" taller than the tank height, so i was assuming it would be used to join the the other 2 underneath the tank to suck air and have a better drain to the sump.

On the 2 small holes it had the returns for the tank, the will go inside the over flow one has an exit at 24" height and the other one has an exit at 36" height. 
The way these returns were set up was very poor and they did not even have a bulkhead that all, they had like a conic pipe stick in to the 2 small holes and like a ball of silicon to make the seal on each small hole, it was gross and pathetic, the silicon there was the size 2 lemons.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

Well i was going to set it up the same way, only making a correction on that pathetic spot that i did not like, i had every piece, connection, reduction, adapter, 1/4 turn valve, one way valve, 3600 GPH pump, going home depot, Lowe's, all the plumbing dealers at San Antonio now i know all them are and they know me, they say when they see me coming "here come the one with the big fish tank"    
You know how all start, can i help you? what are you looking for? what are you trying to do?
what is that going to? A FISH TANK? no, we do not have that, you are going to have to go to a aquarium dealer, for what you are trying to do you will be very difficult to find the parts here :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

The only connections that i did not have were the bulk heads, i thought it will not be a problem because i had saw those at fish store, well, well, well, i did not have a problem with the 3 large (1 1/4") bulkheads, the problem is with the small (3/4") bulkheads.
I did find the 3/4" bulkhead but they only make them in 1 1/2" long, the nut that tight it at the bottom of the tank it was just getting like 2-3 turns, i did not like that.

I thought in getting 2 brass coupler 3/4" threaded both ends 2"long and used 2 PVC nuts from the bulk heads, but that was going to be 4" long of brass on the filtration system, i do not know if will affect the water parameters on the long run, i am going to put 18 fronts in it, i will be :x :x :x :x if something goes wrong there, i even post tread on "tank set ups" regarding to this issue.

Now the other option that i have is canceled the 2 small holes 3/8" and only use the 3 large holes 1 1/4" on this way:
2 of them for drain to the sump, 1 of them to return for the sump to the tank and inside the overflow 2 outlets to the main tank , one at 2 feet height the other one at 3 foot height.

In other to do this i will have to cancel the suction of air i was going to have at the beginning.
All comments will be consider, any advices, suggestions?

I do have now all the connection for both ways now, i kind of like using only 3 large holes, but i just want to make sure i am not going to need that air suction later.


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

I need some comments, do not be lazy and read me tread please


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## RayQ (Sep 26, 2007)

Why not enlarge the smaller holes to accept a 1" bulkhead?

Ray


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## fish-photo-train (Jan 12, 2007)

those small holes do not seem to nice they have been repaired on the past, i can see another piece of acrylic weld around and i really do not want to get around i may damage the repairer have been done on past.
do you really think that air intake will make a big difference to the drains?


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## P &amp; B Customs (Nov 24, 2007)

nice tank indeed!! i feel like i've almost died and gone to acrylic tank heaven!


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## waytoodeep03 (Jan 11, 2009)

whats the update on this tank


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