# Oceanic Wet/dry help



## Paulbearer (Aug 29, 2005)

Anyone have experience with the Oceanic Wet/dry 150? I'm picking up one of my 135's next week off someone on craiglist and it comes with one of these. The wet/dry's tank is black and looks like this:

http://www.vatoelvis.com/Images/75g_below01b.jpg

The 135 has dual overflows and i'm thinking of getting the Durso standpipes for the overflows. The thing with this wet/dry is that it's really just an open tank with an output on the side i'm guessing to run to an external pump. I'm guessing this was for a reef tank and was used and a live rock area or something with protein skimmer. I'm wanting to turn into a wet/dry that will work for my fresh water setup. Each overflow has two holes with fittings for an output and an input back into the tank. Should I just get the acrylic to put in the tank and turn it into a wet/dry that i'm used to using with the bio-balls (pot scrubbers) or do something else?

Also, wouldn't I need two pumps to return to each overflow? I was thinking of plugging the hole coming out of the side of the tank even though it has a valve to shut it up. I'll just put it cap on it for safe measure and run two pumps back to each overflow. Does that sound about right? Do I use PVC (like it is setup for now) or do you use some hoses?[/url]

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


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## Paulbearer (Aug 29, 2005)

Or just tear the overflows down and cover the holes and do it with the old fashioned HOB and Canister route. I do know the bottom glass is tempered.


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## Toby_H (Apr 15, 2005)

You cannot drill tempered glass... so if the bottom is tempered they must have cut the hole then tempered the glass... which I do not think would work... but this is an insignificant detail to the topic of the thread... Anyway 

When I bought a used drilled 90 gal I chose your last option... I covered the holes... simply siliconed a piece of 1/4" plexi over the hole on the inside... It has held together fine in constant use and through several moves for about 4 years...

If you use the sump you could use one pump... then split the output with a T or Y fitting and pump back into both returns...

I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't be able to shut down the overflow/return on one side... provided you plug it so it doesn't leak...

There are dozens of ways to set up your sump. Each one is the best method, for a different goal... you have to decide what you want to get out of your sump before you can decide what is the best way to set it up...


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## Paulbearer (Aug 29, 2005)

Yea, I know there is several ways. The issue with trying to get it back up and going is that it's a used tank and sometimes it's hard to get the plumbing back to the way it was when it was up and running if you know what I mean. It does have the plumbing for both overflows with the everything.

My real thing was the sump, it's not set up like a typical wet/dry that i've seen. It's just a tank where the output from both overflows goes into it and then on the side of the sump is an output with a valve that was hooked up to an external pump to return the water. I know it's hard without pictures and i'll have them next week when I get it and would probably be easier to describe. I was just trying to get ahead start on it.

If I split the return, wouldn't that cut down the output GPH on the pump considerably? I'm guessing that would mean I would have to get a larger pump or get some powerheads in the tank to help move around the waste more? Sorry about all the questions, just want to make sure i'm understanding most of this as much as possible.


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## Aramz (Jun 24, 2008)

Hey guys,

I have a similar situation which may arise with a tank i am tryin to purchase. It has an existing overflow area in the tank which is basically 3 panes of glass running the height of the tank about 5 cm wide that r siliconed to the back wall of the tank. My masterpiece below represents a plan view of the tank with the over area being the little box against the back wall of the tank. I dont like the area like this. It is 2 big and if i were to purchase a 3d background it would really interfere with it. Would it be hard to remove the 3 panes of glass without damaging the tank and could i seal the holes up below which would lead to a sump.

How would i go about doing this as i have no idea. Please explain like i am an idiot.

Also sorry Paulbearer, i dont mean to hijak ur topic. I just saw Toby_H post info on the subject and i thought he might be able to help me

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Finally is it hard to drill holes through the glass if i was to make a little trickle box in a corner and drill a hole out the side? What is tempered galss?


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## Aramz (Jun 24, 2008)

For some reason when i posted it my masterpiece when lost its way. A column of vertical lines is meant to be on the right side.


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## cichlidtx (Jan 14, 2007)

I just setup a Oceanic Wet/dry 75 in my 75gal tank. I will try and post some pics of how I plumbed it tonight.


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## cichlidtx (Jan 14, 2007)

Here's a couple pics of my setup. I'm going to add a second return spray bar to go with the single return I currently have. I originally had the pump external but it was leaking so I moved internal until I can replace the oring. Hope this helps a little. If have any questions let me know.


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## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

I would use the sump.

Splitting it with one pump(and one pump is the only safe way to go) is the way to go. It won't cut the GPH down, it splits it... I think you are overcomplicating this greatly.

You can finesse the wet/dry to make it do whatever you want. They are far superior to canisters/hob for biological filtering, add to the water volume to keep it more stable, allow you to hide all equipment(heaters, uv, blah) in the sump, and can be customized to do great mech filtering too.

Further more, I think because you have a tank capable, it is the best way to go.

You don't have to set it up like it was before, so there is no concern with "setting it up like it was". You can set it up how you see fit, and start from scratch.


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