# 75 gallon stand build



## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

I started on this just recently. Having a very low budget, this stand is more focused on being economically practical than being the work of art that some on this site are capable of. I still want it to look nice, but nice within a budget. Also, I know it's over-built, but with my 7 months construction experience and limited budget (and free 2x4s) this was the most practical. Here's my progress up to this point.









(Lying on it's side)









Framing almost done. I need to pick up some 2x6 to go vertically in the corners.









The top and bottom shelf area are sheeted but I forgot to grab pics. Here's Paint working it's magic. You can see where the 2x6s will fit in the corners.

I have a few questions:
What would be the most cost efficient (without being too hideous) way of sheeting the outside? Would OSB stained with a solid outdoor stain (water and mildew resistant) be really ugly?
My original plan was plywood with plywood trim with self made doors out of the same, but I was wondering what you guys thought of cheaping out and using OSB instead. I will also be building a simple hood, likely out of the same material that I sheet the stand with.

Thanks for looking!


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## TheFishGuy (Apr 21, 2005)

OSB, even with it "water proofed" will not hold up. It's too porus and will swell and start to fall apart. If anything get yourself some luan. It's just as cheap and one side should be decent looking...


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

It looks like the GARF design. The defect in that is the legs are alongside instead of supporting the top and bottom. In the top four corners I would add a carriage bolt so that the corners don't push up into the tank bottom as the top rails sag as they may if held only by screws and glue.

I've seen drywall and wall paper, cement board, table cloths, and fabric used to box in or drape the stands. They all looked good when I saw them, though how long wall paper and drywall would actually last was the first thing in my mind when I saw that stand.


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## TexasFishGuy (Aug 20, 2010)

The OP stated that he would be adding 2x6 around the corners, thus supporting the top rails.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

TexasFishGuy said:


> The OP stated that he would be adding 2x6 around the corners, thus supporting the top rails.


 That would do it!


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## TheFishGuy (Apr 21, 2005)

Actually, if he used ceramic coated screws he'd be fine leaving it without adding the 2x6's. Drywall screws can rust eventually... But deck screws last a bit longer, especially ceramic coated. And the sheer weight of one screw could hold the tank it's self.

Man I really need to dig out that stand for the 125...


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

TheFishGuy said:


> Actually, if he used ceramic coated screws he'd be fine leaving it without adding the 2x6's. Drywall screws can rust eventually... But deck screws last a bit longer, especially ceramic coated. And the sheer weight of one screw could hold the tank it's self.
> 
> Man I really need to dig out that stand for the 125...


 If they are oak or maple 2 by 4's, you are right on. Screws tend to tear out of softwood such as SPF two by fours. Weakest link and all that. In this case the softwood is the weak link.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I agree the OSB will not look good. No matter what you do, the chips will show through. Plywood of whatever you can find cheapest in 1/4 inch will be good. You have lots of vertical framing (concrete man maybe?) and if the outside is glued well to all of them it can't bow or buckle no matter how thin. For doors if you mark and cut carefully, the cutout scrap from the door opening can be trimmed out to make a door. I use this method and then trim out the corners with molding. Be sure to add some 1X stiffeners to the inside of the doors to keep the thin plywood from bowing.
My cabinet door.









Inside stiffeners. You can just see the molding edge if you look close.










Cheap and works. Pardon the dirt, please. It shows up best in pictures!


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## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

Thanks for all the responses.

TFG, I'll check out that luan (lauan?). I'm not sure how available it is here, but sounds like it could be good.
PfunMo, thanks for the tips on the doors. You said find the cheapest 1/4 plywood... would that unsanded rough stuff look alright once stained? That could be a cheap option...

Looks like I'll be busy the next few days, but hopefully I'll get this done over the weekend. Keep your suggestions coming, they're a huge help.


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## snorkel2 (Sep 30, 2005)

TheFishGuy said:


> Actually, if he used ceramic coated screws he'd be fine leaving it without adding the 2x6's. Drywall screws can rust eventually... But deck screws last a bit longer, especially ceramic coated. And the sheer weight of one screw could hold the tank it's self.
> 
> Man I really need to dig out that stand for the 125...


The problem with screws is they will shear right off instead of bending. To be really safe a few nails would be a nice addition.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

The rough plywood might be a little too rough for my taste. It would make for a more rustic type look if you like that. Nothing anybody should complain about. Any chance of finding 1X cutoffs that would for the outside? I've seen stands using the bark covered slabs from mills for the outside so pretty much whatever you see working works for me. Maybe let some carpenters know you need help? What I find is every time I look there is apt to be something that has changed in wood world making something that was too much sometimes fit the ticket. Home Depot had some plywood they called Homerboard for a while that was really cheap even though it was 3/4 inch. Just never know what you may find cheap at any time. I sometimes get there and have to redesign the whole thing just to fit what's cheap.

Small suggestion on the doors. If you use the cheaper hinges that are not self-closing, you will bang them shut less and the fish like it better. Magnetic latches work nicer than the spring closure type--IMO. Any vibration like that goes right throught the water to them.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

An alternative to the doors is to have the entire front held on with magnetic catches, or mix in a couple touch latches on top.

http://www.southco.com/class/e4-touch-latches-7400.html

I had one with no latches. Boards at the bottom slid horizontally into the stand and held it in place.


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## z400 (Jun 30, 2009)

You need to add 2x4's underneath the 2x4's along the top edge. 
The weight of your tank is on those 2x4's at the top, you need to have something under them.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Under the third picture he shows where he is adding 2X's. Totally strong build but he has free lumber so I can go with that. If he ever needs to move it, it will not bow or rack around.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

snorkel2 said:


> ....The problem with screws is they will shear right off instead of bending. To be really safe a few nails would be a nice addition.


  Nails? I can't imagine nails being useful, other than finish nails tacking on decorative trim.


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## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

I had a bit of time this evening to work on it. This pic should calm the worries about the upper rim not being supported :wink:










It might be a bit overkill, but then again if I ever get a Smart car this can double as a parking spot.


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## FishyOne (Jan 21, 2010)

It looks like overkill but I think it will work out great. You will not need to worry about it collapsing on you, even with a smart car parked on it 

I'm in the process of building a stand for my 220g using similar construction techniques.


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## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

Definitely overkill, but nice and simple to build. FishyOne, do have a thread going or any pics of your build?


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## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

Not sure if that is gonna hold, looks kinda flimsy. :lol:


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

Malawi_Junkie said:


> Not sure if that is gonna hold, looks kinda flimsy. :lol:


 Back up the cement truck, Malawi Junkie, and fill it full!


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## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

Newest shots:




























The double horizontal 2x2s on the hood will support the light. There is a lip on the hood that the lid sits down in so that when looking from the front you don't see a seam (I think that makes sense). Another lip on the bottom of the hood and top of the stand hide the ugly trim on my tank.
Now all I have left is trim, doors, hinges/handles, and staining! The stain is solid, so the perpendicular 'grain' on the front won't be a problem. The trim is wide enough to hide all of the screws.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I like them strong so have no complaints on that point. In fact I did find "overkill" comes in very handy at times. I had to move a tank and stand to clear space for replcing a window. I pried it up, placed pipes for rollers and rolled it out. It would not have worked without a "wellbuilt" stand.

Do you consider your car "overkill"? 
If it has an alarm but never been broken in to.
If it has airbags that have never deploded. 
If it has crush zones front and rear that have never crushed.

Do you consider your house "overkill?
If it has an alarm that has never sounded for real.
If it has smoke detecters that only go off when you burn food.
If it has flood insurance but has never flooded. 
If it has fire insurance but never burned.

Seems what some call overkill is just their saying they like to take chances more than the person who is building the stand. 
Perhaps a ride on the Titanic might change their view?


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## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

Just about done... paint, hinges and handles left!
The first pic is just the stand, 2nd has the hood sitting on top. The trim is just 1/2" plywood. The doors are 1/4" plywood with 1/2" trim.


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## z400 (Jun 30, 2009)

Fabulous work!


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## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

Done!! Here's a few of the final shots:




























There's a few spots that I'll have to retouch with paint. Other than that, I'm pretty pleased with it. Thanks for checking out this thread!


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