# DIY 300'ish Gallon Tank... The Start



## BigDaddyK

Finally talked the Wife into letting me start my first Plywood Build :dancing:

I have 2 kids and a second job so I can't promise much in the way of speed on this but I started my 300 build tonight. My ultimate goal is to use this tank as a learning curve to build an 870 gallon.

Last night I managed to procure the Plywood (forgot one sheet  )

Tonight I started on Gluing pieces together as I am not using 2x4 structure on this one. I only managed to get the back piece glued up at this point hoping to get all the cuts for the sides done tomorrow so I can work on it later than I could tonight (4 yr old early bed. Light sleeper etc)

Here's what I managed:

Glue on the First Sheet 









Clamped and screwed the second sheet to the first (note the foreman in the window)




































Feedback??


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## Coln

Never thought of doing that, looks a good way to go will be following your build :thumb:


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## Shawn Stone

So your gluing two sheets togethor?
not sure you need the screws, but good idea.
Will be following this one 
good luck!


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## BigDaddyK

Well got a little further tonight. Here's a pic or three

for reference, a shot of the back of the tank against my tv stand. tv is a 42".










Getting ready to put the back up.










I really screwed up in gluing both pieces together before getting them secured to the tank. 1.5" of plywood is much more difficult to bend than 3/4" plywood. It has a slight bow from sitting in the pile and that bow is proving difficult to deal with at this point. Luckily a friend contacted me to see where I'm at and hopefully before end of tonight I'll have a photo of the back and at least one side.


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## BigDaddyK

What a task getting that 1 1/2" plywood into place... it was NOT easy. I'm whoooped. Got it into place though I'm happy overall but its not as precise as I usually accept. I broke 2 clamps trying to force things into place. I have to deal with a 1/16" out of square tank. Really not pleased with that but it was clearly not going to get any better. Here's a shot of the back in place.


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## BigDaddyK

Coln said:


> Never thought of doing that, looks a good way to go will be following your build :thumb:


Coln glad to have you on board for the journey. I read through your build while I was planning things out. The 1 1/2" Ply I think is a good plan overall but the bowing is definitely something I didn't consider.

Shawn Stone you're right the screws are def. not needed to be honest they were used exclusively to hold the two sheets together while the glue dried. I could def. take them out now but why?


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## GTZ

Love these threads... opcorn:


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## BigDaddyK

Here's tonights work : 


















And heres a quick sketch of the stand I'm building tomorrow... well the structure anyhow


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## pistolpete

I hate to tell you, but the bowing is due to the fact that your sheets were not sitting on a flat surface when you glued them. When you laminate two pieces in a bent state, they stay bent.

I use this effect on purpose for laminating scaffolding planks. I bend them a bit and then laminate to introduce a camber. Then when you stand on them they do not sag.

to achieve a flat lamination you need to oppose any cupping in the two sheets and clamp the assembly to a flat surface.

I hope you are planning on euro bracing the top of that tank, otherwise you have a serious point of weakness in the front corners.


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## BigDaddyK

*pistolpete*
Yes I know. I realized hours after I glued. Really disappointed in myself on this one. I know better as I am a hobby carpenter.  I had some company watching me when this happened and we were talking while I was working and I made a mistake. Fortunately I had planned on bracing from the start anyhow so I can still make it work. To be honest I'm more frustrated with myself than worried at this point I can fix it.


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## BigDaddyK

What happens if you don't check your bearing on your flush trim bit :x


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## pistolpete

oops, now you have to start all over


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## sjnovakovich

I don't understand. With no framing, what will keep this tank from ripping apart at the seams once there is water in it?


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## jchild40

:thumb:


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## smitty

Know need to be frustrated live and learn. I am going to be watching your progress and applauding every step of the way. Good luck.


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## pistolpete

the tank will not blow apart because glued and screwed joints are immensely strong. Much stronger actually than the silicone holding regular tanks together. The other part of the equation is the box shape of the tank, which provides rigidity. IMO Bigdaddyk is going way overboard with his plywood thickness, 3/4 inch byrch plywood would be enough for this build.

For peace of mind, many people embed glass cloth in the epoxy coating at the corner seams. This makes a plywood tank even more bullet proof.


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## BigDaddyK

Thnx for the Kind words and constructive advice all.

*pistolpete* I think u'r prolly right with overkill but i wanna sleep at night and I have a wife that is not 100% behind me on this build. having the "I told you so" has kept me thinking of the possibilities and how to avoid that possiblity


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## BigDaddyK

Haven't done much for a couple of days. Had Family visiting over the weekend and last night was a recovery night. Hoping to build the Sump's tonight. The way I built the stand dictates that I'll need two sumps I'm thinking about joining them together and having the pump external. I'll try and get a rough sketchup tonight to get input from the experts


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## BigDaddyK

I screwed up bad last night. Against my better judgement I bought and tried to install a piece of pine to pull out the bowing knowing full well that it'd be too weak but due to some $$ "savings" I thought I would try it.

Just so I could make a bad move worse I glued it into place using outdoor wood glue. I gave it approx an hour to set... let the clamps off an the bowing was pretty much as bad as it was before. I worked as fast as I could pulled all the screws and cracked it with a hammer all that did was splinter the pine to toothpicks..... Looks like a night of chiseling and or getting the circular saw out and testing my horizontal cutting skills...


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## pistolpete

a hand plane or belt sander might be your best bet


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## BigDaddyK

Belt Sander is a great Idea.... and gives me an excuse for a new tool :-D


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## stefan88

Hey big! So I see your going with pond armor.. I think it's a great choice.. I have been digging through loads and loads of info on sealing my project.. It will be similar to yours.. 375 gallon pond.. I have decided to go with black pond shield.. I think black is the absolute best choice.. I feel no matter the fish color (unless its black) a black background will compliment the fish the best..

I am buying 2 differnt colors.. First coat will be blue and the second coat black.. The reason I am doing this is because I want to be sure the second coat completley covers the first.. This is not a must but I figure I will most likely need more than one can for possible future tanks and the sump I'll be building for my pond..

Wanted to know if you are planing on putting this right over the plywood or will you be lining the tank with a mason board first?? Butch from pond armor suggested mason board as an added safety precaution.. For one the pond armor will adhere better to the mason board and the glue between the mason board and plywood will add a little cushion and allow some flexing..

I really want to do it as simple as possible.. So I have decided to not use mason board and just use the Pond shield over the plywood.. I'm sure this will work our fine if the tank is properly built.. One thing I am thinking about adding is a fiberglass mesh or fiberglass tape for the corners.. Going to use either a bondo putty or possibly the pond armor to coat the fiberglass into the corners..

I know you didn't ask but I figured I would put out some info on the product.. This response was started in your background color section but I figured I'd put in your DIY thread.. Good luck!! :thumb:


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## BigDaddyK

stefan88 said:


> Hey big! So I see your going with pond armor.. I think it's a great choice.. I have been digging through loads and loads of info on sealing my project.. It will be similar to yours.. 375 gallon pond.. I have decided to go with black pond shield.. I think black is the absolute best choice.. I feel no matter the fish color (unless its black) a black background will compliment the fish the best..


I did go with Black. It's on order and I'm trying to get in touch with Butch to see if I can track it. I do have a Black oscar but it's mostly coppery red and my background is black in my current 135. He's a NINJA in that tank LOL



> I am buying 2 differnt colors.. First coat will be blue and the second coat black.. The reason I am doing this is because I want to be sure the second coat completley covers the first.. This is not a must but I figure I will most likely need more than one can for possible future tanks and the sump I'll be building for my pond..


Great Idea but I already ordered 2 Black



> Wanted to know if you are planing on putting this right over the plywood or will you be lining the tank with a mason board first?? Butch from pond armor suggested mason board as an added safety precaution.. For one the pond armor will adhere better to the mason board and the glue between the mason board and plywood will add a little cushion and allow some flexing..


I am not using (or at this point planning on it) mason board. To my knowledge I've never found that TFG did that on any of his builds. I can't say it's a bad plan at all but it would interfere with the dimensions of the tank and glass and that can't happen any longer



> I really want to do it as simple as possible.. So I have decided to not use mason board and just use the Pond shield over the plywood.. I'm sure this will work our fine if the tank is properly built.. One thing I am thinking about adding is a fiberglass mesh or fiberglass tape for the corners.. Going to use either a bondo putty or possibly the pond armor to coat the fiberglass into the corners..


Avoid using Bondo. In my experience bondo and water are not very compatible. If it were me entertaining this idea I'd be going with some type of resin for fiberglass. It's actually meant for the tape and it's water resistant.



> I know you didn't ask but I figured I would put out some info on the product.. This response was started in your background color section but I figured I'd put in your DIY thread.. Good luck!! :thumb:


Glad to have the feedback! I'm glad to have additional thoughts and feedback


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## dielikemoviestars

Do you mind posting a running price list of materials (tools excluded)? Other than the glass, looks like this will be a relatively inexpensive build.


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## BigDaddyK

I'll quote roughly on this as I don't have the reciepts. I also haven't picked the glass yet. I really want the StarPhire but I don't like the extra $200.

Plumbing - $180
Plywood - $130
2x4's - $50
Screws - $60
Glue - $30
Pond Armor $200
Glass - StarPhire - $440
Glass - "Regular" - $240

I'm hoping to be out for < $1000. I have not purchased any of the finishing material. I'm considering finishing with drywall when the tank is in it's final place to make it look mostly like a wall instead of a tank and stand.

Remember I'm in Canada so some of the $$ might not match up to what you lucky devils down south might get away with .


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## stefan88

Awesome dude!! Curious, are you doing anything in the corners? Fiberglass resin? Anything other than just the pond shield?


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## BigDaddyK

I am so far up in the air on that LOL... I seriously can't decide.

Pro's It will strength the corners.

Con's It will make the corners more brittle.

I think I'll go with out any additional work there but I think I'll apply the corners first. let them dry and then do the remainder of the tank in essence painting on two coats.


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## stefan88

Here is a build where the guy used fiberglass tape on the seams and corners prior to painting on the pond armor.. I just ordered my paint


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## stefan88

Woops forgot the link  http://www.vldesign.com/DIY_1500Gallon_Aquarium.pdf


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## stefan88

I did talk with butch over at pondarmor and he did say you can use bondo under the pond shield.. He suggested a bondo with fiberglass strains in it.. Ok I don't want to throw you off  I'm pretty sure the way you have built your tank, you wouldn't need any extra added strength.. DBL plywood screws and lue should be plenty..


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## TheFishGuy

*stefan88*,*BigDaddyK* we need to discuss pond armor a bit further. I've had the opportunity to work with it on several occasions and have learned a few things. Here's 11 essential tips/rules.

1.) Float the containers of product and hardener in a five gallon pail with 6" of straight hot water out of the tap. This piece of advice is number one because it's most important. The products will change from the consistency of peanut butter to water making it 10X easier to work with. I guarantee it.

2.) Get fiberglass mesh tape or sheets and cut them into strips for ALL of your inside corners and apply them with a wash made from the pond armor.

3.) DO NOT COAT THE OUTSIDE OF YOUR PLYWOOD TANKS WITH POND ARMOR. The reason is because it traps any moisture into the plywood its self causing it to warp uncontrollably. The tank WILL fail. Not coating the outside allows the plywood to dry if it gets wet.

4.) Making the wash. 2 parts product. 1 part hardener. 2 parts DENATURED ALCOHOL. The denatured alcohol with evaporate leaving just the properly mixed product behind. The wash should be used as your first coat on the plywood. It creates a tooth between the plywood and the main coat of properly mixed pond armor. (There's absolutely no reason to get two different colors for two coats, because there's no reason for two coats)

5.) When applying the wash to the plywood, use a small wooden chip brush, you will throw it away when finished. Apply the fiberglass strips to the inside corners with the wash at the SAME TIME you're putting the wash on the plywood.

6.) Plan your project accordingly, meaning, do not let more than 24hrs laps between coats or you will have to sand. DO NOT LET THIS HAPPEN! Just trust me on this one.

7.) Keep plenty of denatured alcohol around, you will use it to clean up spills or your hands.

8.) Wear two pairs of latex gloves ANY TIME you're going to be anywhere near the opened product.

9.) I used clear plastic cups as measuring devices for the products. By using a normal measuring cup stolen from my wifeÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s kitchen I was able to pre measure everything by using water then marking with a sharpie on the clear plastic cups. For example I would pour 1/2 a cup of water into the plastic cup representing the product. Mark it. THEN I'd add 1/4 cup of water to the plastic cup representing the hardener. Mark the cup again. Then I'd just use the measuring cup to measure out 1/2 a cup of denatured alcohol to add to the mix. This method proved to work the very best when measuring the pond armor. None of the products were wasted and you could easily adjust the amount of denatured alcohol this way.

10.) LISTEN TO BUTCH. He knows his stuff, I mean really knows his product. He could probably teach courses on customer service. Feel free to ask me any questions at any time. If you two would like my phone number then shoot me a pm, I'd be glad to help. If you can't get a hold of me call Butch, if you canÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t get a hold of Butch call me. There's only one thing Butch and I disagree on, it's the use of hardie panel. I found it much easier to work with just plywood. In fact when I closed off the deep end of the 1200 I used just plywood.

11.) SILICONE ALL OF YOUR INSIDE CORNERS at the same time you're installing your glass. And be sure to push the silicone into the corners using the back side of a spoon. Bubbles are bad. GE Silicone ONE is what you want to use.


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## BigDaddyK

AWESOME!! I've been waiting for you to just comment.... but this is perfect... I'll be printing out the steps to have on hand for the rest of the build!!


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## BigDaddyK

*stefan88* after reading TFG's tips I will be using fiberglass mesh in the corners and if Butch says it then I'll do it LOL... well I'll use the bondo to fill the imperfections in the wood. This was where I was most nervous but after "talking" it out with you all and the tips from both you and TFG I'm feeling more confident as I go.


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## stefan88

Thank you THE FISHGUY :thumb: Was also hoping you would chime in. Some great info and you only have strenghtned my choice of pondarmor..



> 1.) Float the containers of product and hardener in a five gallon pail with 6" of straight hot water out of the tap. This piece of advice is number one because it's most important. The products will change from the consistency of peanut butter to water making it 10X easier to work with. I guarantee it.


This is a great idea!! I really like it and will be applying this method when I am ready to coat my tank.. Do you suggest doing this regardless of the coat? Washcoat/corners or the final coat?



> 2.) Get fiberglass mesh tape or sheets and cut them into strips for ALL of your inside corners and apply them with a wash made from the pond armor.


Any particular mesh? Butch was telling me to use a fiberglass mesh that has a crossed fiber pattern.. Would you recommend a tape with a one side adhesive? Sticking it down prior to the wash coat?



> 4.) Making the wash. 2 parts product. 1 part hardener. 2 parts DENATURED ALCOHOL. The denatured alcohol with evaporate leaving just the properly mixed product behind. The wash should be used as your first coat on the plywood. It creates a tooth between the plywood and the main coat of properly mixed pond armor. (There's absolutely no reason to get two different colors for two coats, because there's no reason for two coats)


Would you recommed using the DENATURED ALCOHOL as well as the heating of the pond shield you mentioned in #1 for both the wash coat and the final coat?



> 5.) When applying the wash to the plywood, use a small wooden chip brush, you will throw it away when finished. Apply the fiberglass strips to the inside corners with the wash at the SAME TIME you're putting the wash on the plywood.


Ok so this is How I'm picturing this.. I'll do a quick wash coat on a corner then immediatley press my fiberglass.. Would using a spackle knife help to press it into the wash coat?



> 9.) I used clear plastic cups as measuring devices for the products. By using a normal measuring cup stolen from my wifeÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s kitchen I was able to pre measure everything by using water then marking with a sharpie on the clear plastic cups. For example I would pour 1/2 a cup of water into the plastic cup representing the product. Mark it. THEN I'd add 1/4 cup of water to the plastic cup representing the hardener. Mark the cup again. Then I'd just use the measuring cup to measure out 1/2 a cup of denatured alcohol to add to the mix. This method proved to work the very best when measuring the pond armor. None of the products were wasted and you could easily adjust the amount of denatured alcohol this way.


Great suggestion!



> 11.) SILICONE ALL OF YOUR INSIDE CORNERS at the same time you're installing your glass. And be sure to push the silicone into the corners using the back side of a spoon. Bubbles are bad. GE Silicone ONE is what you want to use


Sounds like some good reassurance here making the corners a bit more flexible.. I like the suggestion!!

So I plan on framing the outside of the tank, so screw holes on the inside will need to be covered.. Could I just go with a regular wood filler? Or would bondo be best?

Thanks again the FISHGUY!![/url]
Thanks again the fishguy!!


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## TheFishGuy

Quote: 
1.) Float the containers of product and hardener in a five gallon pail with 6" of straight hot water out of the tap. This piece of advice is number one because it's most important. The products will change from the consistency of peanut butter to water making it 10X easier to work with. I guarantee it.



> This is a great idea!! I really like it and will be applying this method when I am ready to coat my tank.. Do you suggest doing this regardless of the coat? Washcoat/corners or the final coat?


Yes, a resounding YES!



> Any particular mesh? Butch was telling me to use a fiberglass mesh that has a crossed fiber pattern.. Would you recommend a tape with a one side adhesive? Sticking it down prior to the wash coat?


Go to an auto parts store that carries auto body supplies. There's two different products, you want the cloth.... I think... It's the stronger of the two. I'll find some and take a picture of it. The sticky stuff is for drywall, you don't want that.



> Would you recommed using the DENATURED ALCOHOL as well as the heating of the pond shield you mentioned in #1 for both the wash coat and the final coat?


YES!!!



> Ok so this is How I'm picturing this.. I'll do a quick wash coat on a corner then immediatley press my fiberglass.. Would using a spackle knife help to press it into the wash coat?


Why dirty another tool? :wink: The chip brush will do a fine job of pushing the fiberglass into the corner. 

Bondo is the best to use for filling holes or imperfections...


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## TheFishGuy

One more thing, tell butch the guy from monster fish rescue says "hi" and be sure to tell him I've sent you! Butch has helped me quite a bit in the past and I owe him!


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## stefan88

Sweet deal man! Thanks for all the helpful valuable info.. Been speaking to butch for a few weeks now.. I'll deff tell him i spoke with you.. BTW Looked through all 120+ pages of your big tank you built.. very imressive dude!! Wish I had the room.. For now a 400 gal pond will do  Sent you a PM..

Big sorry to hijack your thread but I think we both needed the extra info.. Cheers dude! Good luck with you build


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## BigDaddyK

In my mind no such thing as a Hijack if it's still related to the thread 

So I built the Sump (frame) a couple nights ago but because of the manipulation and having it on a carpeted floor while assembling and gluing (and having the wife watch to make sure I didn't spill a drop of glue) there are no photo's. I did a sketchup of the sump in a cutaway to offer what I'm proposing.










I'm really stuck on the Refugium. I know it's not essential to a freshwater system but I enjoy growing the plants (the main tank will be oscars/arowana) and it's a must in "my" system. I'm going to use poret foam on the second section in forcing the water from the overflow into the refugium. I dropped the exit of the refugium to 10" the hope here is to have enough gravity on my side to keep a bit of flow through the plants etc.

I'd really like some feedback here as I'm not 100% that my plan is ideal at all but I think it is functional.


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## BigDaddyK

so I'm stuck not finding denatured alcohol in my area. are there any other options?? preferably a not to smelly option?


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## TheFishGuy

Any paint store of paint department should have it.


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## BigDaddyK

I'd love to agree with you but I've been to Home Depot, Rona (kinda canadian lowes) and even Canadian Tire.

I'm thinking on Hopping across the border for it Tomorrow night...


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## TheFishGuy

That's very odd.... I do not know of a sustitute...


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## BigDaddyK

I'll call HomeDepot across the river and see if they carry it

I don't believe it's illegal just not common here... I even went to a drugstore and they didn't carrry and said they couldn't order...


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## BigDaddyK

Just finished speaking with Butch. 99% isopropyl alcohol works just as well.


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## TheFishGuy

My next suggestion was to call Butch...


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## BigDaddyK

Haha... yeah Butch seems to be a good guy all around.

So I was hoping to get started last night but the final placement of the tank toon longer and that sucker is getting heavy to move by myself. I had to move it multiple times to get it in position, cut out the carpet, clean out the carpet and underpad, move it back into place. I was whooped by the time it was done.

I did get my alcohol so I'm hoping to get started tonight or maybe wednesday night. My wife is out tonight so I don't know if I want to make the attempt with 2 boys and a boxer pup all by my self LOL


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## TheFishGuy

I've got some alcohol in my belly!


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## BigDaddyK

hahaha... is it 99% pure??


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## TheFishGuy

no... 6% :lol:


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## Chunkanese

Even though its more expensive i would definitely keep with getting Starphire. I was working at a glass plant in collingwood, Barber Glass until its shut down at christmas. You could usually only see the green tinge with regular either thick glass or pieces laid beside each other, but when light would shine through it was a noticeable difference between regular and Starphire. Where are you getting the pieces cut?


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## BigDaddyK

FINALLY got the 1st coat on


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## TheFishGuy

I o not have "starfire" glass and I see no green tinge through my 3/4" glass... When it's out I can see it on the edge but that's it.

Nice to see some pictures! Was that your wash coat?


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## BigDaddyK

Starphire is probably going to be the glass I go with but mostly because a found a local glass company that actually can order the starphire for cheaper then regular glass.

Yes that's the wash coat. I was really hoping to be further along at this point but as you've often said TFG... Life Happens.


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## BigDaddyK

arrrghhh... i didn't let it sit in the hot water long enough i guess... really tough to work with... I'm waiting on the next batch in the hot water now.... I hope this goes better!!


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## TheFishGuy

Put the separate halves in the hot water.... then mix!


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## BigDaddyK

yes.. doing that I think i'm mixing up too much.... it's gettting so "heavy" b4 I finish...


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## BigDaddyK

EPIC FAILURE!!!!

I misread the directions from Butch and TFG on the "main coat"... I didn't add any alcohol and the stuff was soooo "heavy" that it's terribly patchy and uneven and... well frankly i'm a little gutted atm.

I know it can be fixed but I screwed up and i'm frustrated atm


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## BigDaddyK

I gotta say to you all. TFG. YOU WERE RIGHT!!! Butch is a really cool guy that knows his stuff. I had to sand and redo the layer but when you read the directions (and absorb them) this product is awesome to work with. FANTASTIC. so easy to use and I'm feeling quite confident about adding water. I don't want to jinx the whole thing but it's a really nice product and that builds confidence!!

I'll try and get a photo in the next day or so.

the only disappointment at this point is that i used more product than I meant to and now I had to order additional. No one's fault but my own. the sump will take a little longer but that's ok as i've had some more time to think it through and I have some additional ideas.


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## TheFishGuy

Use a plastic storage bin for a sump.... or a rubbermaid water trough.


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## BigDaddyK

Got the Bulkheads drilled and the Durso's built (not glued)










Also got the return for the sump and the UGJ's drilled too. Here's the whole tank










And a close up for the Sump Return (Left), UGJ Durso (Back Right) and UGJ Return (Front Right)










I plan to paint at least the top fittings of each fixture. I don't know if I'll paint the vertical pipes.


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## mel_cp6

paint the pipes with krylon fusion black, let it sit for a week and it will be chip resistant and it will blend with the bg.
cant wait to see it all done.
good job so far.


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## BigDaddyK

Yup.. I have the krylon already and will be painting in the next couple of days. Where I live has been close enought to freezing temps. still so I don't want to paint until I know it'll dry in a reasonable time.


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## BigDaddyK

The Glass is IN!!!!!

Leavin work early to grab it this afternoon... hopefully siliconing in tonight!

:dancing:


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## TheFishGuy

When you silicone be sure to sand your pond armor first. Are you siliconing all your inside corners too? I would, the prevention is better than the cure.

Are you using prop sticks to hold the glass? Do you have help? <-- Hopefully you have answered yes to all of my questions! :lol:


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## BigDaddyK

check check and check 




























comments, questions, suggestions welcome :thumb:


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## TheFishGuy

=D> =D> :thumb: :thumb:


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## BigDaddyK

How long do I need to leave the clamps/supports on there? I have some other work to do on the tank still and that's definitley hindering the process.


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## Tiwaz

This is an amazing build. Giving me some ideas for the basement.


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## TheFishGuy

BigDaddyK said:


> How long do I need to leave the clamps/supports on there? I have some other work to do on the tank still and that's definitley hindering the process.


No one will agree with me on this but I left mine for 24 hours, then filled the tank with water and let it sit for a week.


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## BigDaddyK

I can't do that yet  still waiting on product from my last mistake... I'm hoping it will be here by the weekend so I can finish the sump off and start filling.


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## AussieSwede

Wow.. Nice design you got there... I will take this one if you don't mind...


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## BigDaddyK

TY *AussieSwede* Personally I'd wait to make sure my tank holds water but hey.. you go for it if you'd like LOL

TFG... you fill your tank all at once!!??!! I'm not sure my nerves can handle that! I was thinking on filling it 4 - 6 " at a time and checking for leaks... maybe I should grow a pair and make it happen ? 

Oh Yeah.. I got the additional Pond Armor to finish up the Overflows and Sump  should be ready for Filling this weekend


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## JoelRHale

I have been following this with much interest, I plan on doing something like this once I have my own place.

I know you are not finished yet, but how much effort would you say something like this takes? I am fairly building savvy, maybe when you're done you could share some of the particular hardships, the easy parts, is it worth it, etc. A spectator/soon to be builder would greatly appreciate it!

Ps, this tank is awesome and when its done its going to be amazing, you've done a great job! :thumb:


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## TheFishGuy

BigDaddyK said:


> TFG... you fill your tank all at once!!??!! I'm not sure my nerves can handle that! I was thinking on filling it 4 - 6 " at a time and checking for leaks... maybe I should grow a pair and make it happen ?


Yep, no guts no glory!


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## BigDaddyK

haha... well I got the sump wash coat done  I will be getting final coat on tomorrow night and then getting everything in place on Saturday.. Sunday should be fill day then


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## BigDaddyK

JoelRHale said:


> I know you are not finished yet, but how much effort would you say something like this takes? I am fairly building savvy, maybe when you're done you could share some of the particular hardships, the easy parts, is it worth it, etc. A spectator/soon to be builder would greatly appreciate it!


The overall effort is minimal in my opinion. I use building as a bit of an outlet and it's fun for me so effort isn't in the equation. I would add that you really need to think things through on a build of this nature as "step 1" may have a direct impact on "step 15".

I did have issues with the plywood using the method of gluing them together. I didn't think about the bowing. All the plywood I purchased had a natural sag/bow. I should have glued the back with the bow opposite on the two pieces so they would have worked against eachother to make a more straight back.

I also accidentally didn't fully follow the instructions on the epoxy. I somehow missed the step of adding isopropyl/denatured alcohol to the product. This was an error on my part and not the product by anymeans. The product is really easy to use if you just follow the directions.

I definitely think it was worth it. Total cost will likely be around $1100 CAD it's not cheap but I feel a personal satisfaction with doing it myself.


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## mel_cp6

looks really good so far.
what are you stocking it with?
where in ontario are you from btw?


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## Will1983

is it filled yet???
im sure i speak for everyone and say, "We Want Pics!!!"


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## BigDaddyK

well I started.... the bulkheads weren't tight enough and it started leaking. I tightened them up and the one is still seeming to drip... not sure if it's residual water or not.. giving it some time but I think there might be another hurdle cropping up here 

Here are a few pics of the top that I built today though 



















and here are the UGJs too:



















I'll keep you all posted


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## BigDaddyK

so I thought I had it... started to fill got about 50 gallons in and it started leaking again


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## TheFishGuy

Silicone your bulkheads. I never used to because I was stubborn. But it works. REmember to sand where you plan to silicone.


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## BigDaddyK

I'm not gonna lie... I prayed.... A LOT!!!

Looks like I have no leaks atm. the tank is as full as I'm comfortable with. While looking for leaks I got a 10000 candle light and I could see wood grain in the sump still. like the color of wood in the sump. It's coming back out and I'll add another coat of Pond Armor. I hope to do that tomorrow night so that by Tuesday or Wednesday I can complete the fill.

Here are the rest of the photo's I took during the fill:

The Problem Bulkhead 









The Tank Full (to the bottom of the Durso









I took a couple more but they are sooooo grainy that I'm not going to bother posting them


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## Tiwaz

Looking good.


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## BigDaddyK

little better pic of where it's all at


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## BigDaddyK

It doesn't show too much but I made a lot of progress last night. I got the top oak pieces waterproofed on the undersides. 8 of 10 bags of sand are in (i'm not sure if I need the other two as I have approx 4" of sand all around. I'm waiting on the tank to settle a bit first). and then I got the sump box in place. I needed two more plastic containers that I picked up today on lunch.

Here's the tank as it sits currently.


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## TheFishGuy

Will it be full when all said and done?


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## BigDaddyK

Yes.. Its just down a couple inches still as the sump isn't complete. That should happen tonight and I'll finish filling it then. had to stay below the durso's until that point.


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## TheFishGuy

Ah... See that's all a completely different language to me! :lol:


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## BigDaddyK

durso's = overflow stand pipes


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## TheFishGuy

My stand pipes are on the outside!


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## BigDaddyK

Yeah.. if I didn't have to have the back side of the tank "livable" I would have done the same


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## TheFishGuy

I understand completely!


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## BigDaddyK

So got home last night and checked on things... Sump had a slow but steady leak. The bottom of the sump was completely soaked so I drained it all out and took it outside for inspection. I found what I think and hope is the only leak










If you look at the right most hole you'll see it's damp and thats the only place I could find that was definitely dripping down to the bottom of the sump. I sanded with 60 grit on the line that those holes made (previous design of the sump baffles that I threw out) and siliconed the **** outta it. It's not pretty but I'm confident that I got that particular issue under control.

I had to give it 24 hours so I figured I'd get my UGJ's pump installed. I teflon taped the connectors and started to assemble. The return connection worked well but when I was tightening, by hand mind you, the intake connection I split the impeller cover. Luckily I'm using the same pump for the sump return and I can just swap pumps but I was seriously angered for a min!! In my opinion I shouldn't be able to break the cover when I'm tightening by hand. Frustrating night but I think all in all things are still going quite well and I should be done and cycling tonight. I put a decent piece of foam my current 135 to jump start the cycle. I'll likely also throw in the foam from my 2 HOB filters in that same tank to help out.


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## BigDaddyK

So I have it Built already (no photo's yet) but here is the Sump Design.










This all sits inside the Sump Box that I was working on last night... I think it's self explanatory but questions or comments as always are welcome


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## AussieSwede

BigDaddyK said:


> TY *AussieSwede* Personally I'd wait to make sure my tank holds water but hey.. you go for it if you'd like LOL
> 
> TFG... you fill your tank all at once!!??!! I'm not sure my nerves can handle that! I was thinking on filling it 4 - 6 " at a time and checking for leaks... maybe I should grow a pair and make it happen ?
> 
> Oh Yeah.. I got the additional Pond Armor to finish up the Overflows and Sump  should be ready for Filling this weekend


Btw, if you don't mind. How much would I spent for that one?


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## BigDaddyK

Including Pumps, Lighting, Substrate I'm sitting around 1k Canadian Dollars. That includes the additional $100 for the pond armor that wouldn't have been necessary if I had been better at following directions.


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## BigDaddyK

Well no leaks and I added most of the fish tonight :dancing: :dancing:




























real camera is dead and I can't seem to find the charger... cell phone foggy photo's is the best I can offer


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## JiggsJedi

Looks good bro!!! Love it!!! I'm jelly.


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## BigDaddyK

Today I got 1100 pounds of rock 










View from my Couch










And a couple of the fish currently in the tank (Arowana jumped while I was putting rock in.. seems fine now)


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## juststayinthecave

Congratulations Big Daddy, enjoy the view from the couch, that is one heck of a tank and looks great. It was fun following the build.


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## monisaab

great tank and nice setup...


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## iwade4fish




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## JimA

While I think it looks impressive, I think you could have done better with the rock. Please don't take this the wrong way, but you have built a beautiful "huge" tank only to throw a pile of rocks in.

In the end it is your tank, but to me it seems you have wasted a lot of space. I do like the rock choice, just not so much of it.


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## BigDaddyK

No offense taken. I like the amount of rocks in there. I think it looks good in the tank. I appreciate your opinion and if I decide that it's too much then I'll certainly remove some. Also as the fish grow I may find the tank cramped and need to pull out some rocks then too. I have been looking at my 135 and kinda thinking that the rock would look good in that tank too so it's possible I'll want/need to move some there too.

thanks for your thoughts


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## Norm66

Wow. Nice.


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## Coln

Good job BigD looks fantastic worth all the hassle in the end :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

Those rocks need some mbuna around them lol


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## BigDaddyK

If I didn't have the fish for the tank prior to the build I may agree Coln. I had Mbuna at one point many years ago. They were definitely enjoyable fish.

ty for the compliments too


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## singleton

1st hello i been reading thread on building plywood tank. I have a few question .One is your plywood tank still up & working ? IF so how long ? What problem you had ? Can i just use resin instead of the mat ? Or can i use shower board (it look like a sheet of tiles , fake tiles ) with silcon to seal the seam to waterproof the inside


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## The King Crabb

Great thread  Looking to build a 125G (actually about 150G with the behind-tank-sump) here in a couple of weeks! Very helpful :thumb:


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## iwade4fish

Coln said:


> Good job BigD looks fantastic worth all the hassle in the end :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
> 
> Those rocks need some mbuna around them lol


Scott's have the BEST ideas!!!


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## BigDaddyK

singleton said:


> 1st hello i been reading thread on building plywood tank. I have a few question .One is your plywood tank still up & working ? IF so how long ? What problem you had ? Can i just use resin instead of the mat ? Or can i use shower board (it look like a sheet of tiles , fake tiles ) with silcon to seal the seam to waterproof the inside


Yes the Tank is still running. It's less than a year still at this point but so far no issues at all.

The only problem i've had is the covers I made for the top. They are 1/2" ply and they are begining to bow. They were a last minute cover when I found out that the glass was going to be about $200. I didn't have any left to spend on the tank so I built some for about $30. I don't regret it but I will have to come up with another solution in time.

While you can us just resin I wouldn't suggest it. I think the mat in the corners is a necessary safe gaurd.

Showerboard would work in theory but I'm not sure how it would hold up to algae, rocks that will inevitably bang against it. Or if it's fish safe stuff.


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## BigDaddyK

The King Crabb said:


> Great thread  Looking to build a 125G (actually about 150G with the behind-tank-sump) here in a couple of weeks! Very helpful :thumb:


Thanks! it was a lot of fun to build and I sit and watch it every night for hours now.. definitely worth the effort/cost.


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## The King Crabb

BigDaddyK said:


> definitely worth the effort/cost.


Good to know :thumb: I'll be starting it up here in just a little while and will start a thread on here of it! I'm sure it won't be as good as your's :wink: But I'll try :lol:


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## BigDaddyK

Thanks for the compliment but when it comes down to it all I built was a rectangular box with a window... you can definitely do it. Take your time and plan it all out first.


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## Nathan43

This is cool. I wish I had these skills. I really want to build one of these.


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## singleton

do you think poly wall would seal the in side of the plywood tank


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## BigDaddyK

I'm not familiar with the product you are referring to so I can't comment.


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## Steveboos

Looks awesome!!!! I like the rocks, but it does look like they all just thrown in there. See if you can make it go up and down and random like nature would intend and i'm sure it will make a huge difference.


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## mel_cp6

Where and how much did you buy the starfire glass if you don't mind me asking?


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## BigDaddyK

*Steveboos*

I have rearranged the rocks since the last photo. I like it better now for sure.

*mel_cp6*
Purchased from a place called 2 Guys Glass in Niagara Falls, Ontario. The price I got for the glass I don't want to share as the supplier made an error when calculating the total and actually got it for dealer cost. The average quote when I was calling around was in the $420 price range for a sheet 28.5x95.5


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## mel_cp6

Thanks. 
I knew it was to good to be. 
I'd they honored what they quoted you then you're one lucky guy. 
Now post the new pic pls.


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## jmlp3

Hey there Big Daddy, I had to ask, as a fellow Ontarian, that was an impressive build. What was the final cost of materials, and how long did it take you to make it? As well, at the moment, how long have you had it up and running? One last question, as far as your own build, do you feel it is more stress free since you made it as compared to a store bought.

I like this, and would like to build one of my own too some day.


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## BigDaddyK

*mel_cp6*
I had already made a deposit on the agreed upon price so they were kind of obliged to honor it.

*jmlp3*
Including all pumps and lighting etc I think I was around the $1200 mark. I took only a couple days of actual work time. If you plan it out it's a pretty easy job. I've had the tank running for close to a year now without any issues (knock on wood). I built it for the personal gratification. I like to build things and I enjoy a challange.

I'm really happy with the outcome and I'd do it again in a second if I had anymore room in my house to build one!!


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## mel_cp6

What size of wood did you use for the front window frame? I've been thinking of building one but I have to figure out what dimension I can easily bring to the basement stairs.


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## BigDaddyK

I glued (and screwed) 2x2 to the plywood on the bottom and the sides. Across the top I have a 2x2 glued to a 2x4 across the top. Also on the top I have a piece of 4" wide lumber from front to back to eliminate any flex in the glass.


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## mel_cp6

Cool. I'm thinking of a tank that is 16" high by 90"L by 20"w. I will try a mock up with 2x4 basic frame to see if I can bring it down to the basement. if I can only bring down a 7' tank then it may not be worth it for me when I already have a 125g. 
Did you do anything to reinforce the corner seams btw?


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## BigDaddyK

mel_cp6 said:


> Thanks.
> I knew it was to good to be.
> I'd they honored what they quoted you then you're one lucky guy.
> Now post the new pic pls.


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