# Suggestions and tips for building a 55 G aquarium stand



## MikeandLiz (Jun 18, 2011)

I had a 55 Gallon sittin on a metal stand right now. I dont want to put a tacky curtin over it so i am building a plywood stand with doors for it. Staining and polying trim work the whole 9. Should i build it around the metal frame and hindge it together or should i just build it from scratch? I feel this is my last step to completing this tank. I want to build an upper piece as well to make it more uniformed and put base and crown around it. This is my first time doing this, i do have a good construction backround but want this to come quick and easy as possible. Does anyone have an easy way to go about it, any tips, any steps done by former builders? all suggestions and help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!! - Mike :thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I have tools to do it but would not want to use the metal stand. I have buildt several stands and find 2X4 much easier to get and use. Not too much expense to build from scratch. Cutting pretty precise is needed. 
My method- 
Top and bottom ring- 2X4 cut to length & width of tank, 45 mitered corners, laying on the wide side. Make 2 rectangles of these, one for top, one for bottom.
Uprights- Cut to heigth of stand less three inches. Cut 8 for corners and any that you may want fo additional bracing. For a 55, I use two on the front beside the door and one in the rear. Glue and screw 8 2X together to form 4 corners forming an "El".

Final assembly--- Fit the top 2X4 frame on top of legs, glue and screw them together. Fit them so the leg 2X crosses over the joint in the top frame so that it can't warp up/down. Turn it over and do the bottom the same. Figure your door and add bracing at the side of it. Cover with plywood and trim to suit.

I'll get back with picture shortly.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Pictures of my current project. Building and getting 125 ready. I'm painting the back as well as doing a bleach soak and testing the tank at the same time. I'm using the stand as support for the filled tank as my garage floor is not totally straight. This stand is built to a 40 inch heaight for it's location.










Corner details
Hard to see but notice that the upright 2X4 spans the gap where the bottom/top 2X4's join. I feel this makes it stronger and less likely to get weird as the wood dries. I also run screws through in toenail fashion to hold the corner joint from spreading. I always use glue and 3"screws on all joints. 









The final plywood outside keeps it all from racking. Doors are worked out depending what I have on hand. Reused / free cabinet doors are handy.


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## DanniGirl (Jan 25, 2007)

IMO, you would be better off by building one from scratch.

Are you knowledgeable about welding? I had one welded up for my 150 gallon. To hide the steel skeleton, I attached pieces of oak followed by pieces of trim. The bonus is that the stand is considerably lighter then a solid wood stand.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

IME -The problem with steel is that it is pretty expensive and takes more experience to work than many people have and then will rust at some point. Metal and water don't make a good combo when it is in the house where rust on a floor may be really expensive. Any time I have had a tank for more than a couple years, some way water has been spilled and run under the front. I'm not willing to take the risk of having rust in/on and through whatever is underneath.


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## DanniGirl (Jan 25, 2007)

PfunMo said:


> IME -The problem with steel is that it is pretty expensive and takes more experience to work than many people have and then will rust at some point. Metal and water don't make a good combo when it is in the house where rust on a floor may be really expensive. Any time I have had a tank for more than a couple years, some way water has been spilled and run under the front. I'm not willing to take the risk of having rust in/on and through whatever is underneath.


IMO, there are problems with wood as well. I prefer steel over wood because of it's weight and ease of moving.

I know you are aware that there are numerous things you can do to alleviate the rust issue, especially if built correctly. I'm not going to deny the fact that it does take a skill to melt the pieces together though.

The OP asked for suggestions so I gave him mine. To each, their own. :thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Short of powder coating or some really expensive treatment, how does one stop rust? Galvanised or stainless would work if money were no object to consider but just paint doesn't do the job for very long. Then when he gets to building a canopy and putting crown molding on it, doesn't he still have a problem if he wants it to match and he is using steel?


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

Hi Mike, I am just finishing up my plywood stand for a 75. It is 100% plywood, held together with PVA glue and about a pound of flooring screws. I have access to a good workshop, which helps a lot, but this could be done in a garage too. the process is as follows:

Buy 1 sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, about 1 cup of a good quality glue, about a pound of 1.5 inch flooring screws.

Cut two identical pieces about 1/4 inch bigger than the base of your tank. These will be the top and bottom of your stand. Cut one piece abut 30 inches (stand height) x the length of the the stand for the front. Cut two pieces at stand height x the width of the stand minus 3/4 inches.
save left overs for bracing the back.

take the front piece and lay out two doors on it with very light pencil lines. Plunge cut with a skill saw and cut out the two squares, finishing the corners with a hand saw. These will be the door panels.

Now you have a box. Lay our lines 3/8" from the sides on top and bottom and the two edges of the front panel. Pre-drill holes for screws about every 6 inches. Glue and assemble.

The most efficient bracing for the back is 2 strips of plywood about 6 inches wide right across the top and bottom of the inside of the back of the stand.

To get a stand like that built start to finish takes me less than 2 hours with a nice table saw. However, to put nice trim all around, sand, stain, and paint, takes about another 12 hours.

A well built plywood stand will support approximately 2 tonnes, so you don't need to worry about adding any lumber to reinforce it.


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## DanniGirl (Jan 25, 2007)

*MikeandLiz,*
If you're interested, here is a brief description of my welded frame. 
The framework is 1/16" wall, 1"x 2" steel tubing. The advantage of the steel frame is that it's extremely lightweight and has 6 leveling feet on the steel tubing but it does require welding skills. 
The stand (prior to being coated) is wiped with paint thinner, primed then coated. The stand is then shelved in 3/4" oak paneling and trimmed with oak. There are no screws visible. 
If you would like details or pictures, I'll be happy to send you a pm.


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## jturkey69 (Jun 6, 2011)

MikeandLiz said:


> I had a 55 Gallon sittin on a metal stand right now. I dont want to put a tacky curtin over it so i am building a plywood stand with doors for it. Staining and polying trim work the whole 9. Should i build it around the metal frame and hindge it together or should i just build it from scratch? I feel this is my last step to completing this tank. I want to build an upper piece as well to make it more uniformed and put base and crown around it. This is my first time doing this, i do have a good construction backround but want this to come quick and easy as possible. Does anyone have an easy way to go about it, any tips, any steps done by former builders? all suggestions and help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!! - Mike :thumb:


If I was in your position, I would by thin plywood, and make a "cover" or "skin" so to speak over the metal stand since you already have it, unless the stand is broke down. You stated you would like this to be done as quick and as easily as possible..I would assume you dont have much time ( I never do..lol) so you could use hinges for the two back corners and hinge it so the base "cabinet" is two pieces essentially using screws to attach the front panel with doors built on it to the back of the hinged back and sides. This way you could use any material you wanted...even paneling that has a design? for the canopy you could use whatever you used for the stand skin, and even make it lightweight, hinged, etc.
I seen one awesome metal stand that was converted to hold two tanks...55 on top, and somewhat smaller on the bottom, centered....looked awesome!

Thatis my .02 since you already have the stand, and made a suggestion that you might want to skin it.
Good luck!


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## DanniGirl (Jan 25, 2007)

Edit to my post- meant to say that the stand is sheathed (not shelved) in 3/4 oak paneling.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

PfunMo said:


> Short of powder coating or some really expensive treatment, how does one stop rust? Galvanised or stainless would work if money were no object to consider but just paint doesn't do the job for very long. Then when he gets to building a canopy and putting crown molding on it, doesn't he still have a problem if he wants it to match and he is using steel?


There is a way to treat rust and prep raw metal. There is a product called osflow that I use on my cars that works wonders. Google search it and see what you find.


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## jturkey69 (Jun 6, 2011)

I myself like rust bullet for my cars...never tried por15


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

It's pretty good a lot of places I have work swear by the stuff. I use it and it does what it says if treated properly.


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