# Stocking Question: Meekis and Juripari?



## Ronzo (Sep 8, 2013)

Forum;

While my 55g is cycling, and I'm chomping at the bit for getting fishies into the tank, I'm really enjoying the "Rate the tank above" thread here...lots of beautiful tanks to check out and ideas out there...I haven't yet looked at all 170+ pages of the thread, but one thing I notice there is the predominance of African cichlids (nice coloration for sure)...and I haven't seen a single tank with firemouths IMO also one of the nicest in coloration (and hopefully disposition)...that is what I plan on stocking with...perhaps starting with a group of 5-6, until, hopefully, I get some pairing and spawning...I was also considering having some a few juripari...

Questions: Is this a good, peaceful combination in the long run? Will either species get too territorial after they pair up? What is recommended after they start pairing...remove the remaining? Discussion please!

Cheers from Connecticut!


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## FedEXguy (Feb 24, 2005)

I could see them working together ok...in a bigger tank. S. jurupari get 10 inches, so just a few of those guys by themselves would make a 55 crowded. In a 55 you'll want to stay more with medium sized or smaller fish, such as the firemouths. Depending on aggression levels, total stocking, and aquascape, you might not have to remove any firemouths after you get a pair.


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## CjCichlid (Sep 14, 2005)

I agree with FedEx.

Check out the thread by started by Trimmerj as he is trying to do something similar and decided to stick with a group of Firemouths.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=289290


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I pulled this question of Trimmerj's post...


> my 55g fishless cycle is well along at about 20 days with Nitrite and Nitrate readings and with a slowly decreasing Ammonia reading (Ammonia is being supplied by a decaying shrimp)...experts can please advise: How will I know when tank is ready for stocking...when Ammonia goes to zero indicating bacteria can handle bioload (even with shrimp in there), or when ammonia drops to zero within 24hrs of removing shrimp, again indicating bacteria can process bioload?


How high did your ammonia reading reach? A much better and accurate way to perform a fishless cycle is to use pure ammonia(available at hardware stores). This way you can dose the tank to 2-3 ppm and ensure a very strong bacteria colony exists. Then you can confidently add whatever your entire stock list will be. Also, any nitrate reading you have will be inaccurate when there is nitrite still present.

Checkout this article here on the forum: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fishless_cycle.php


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## Ronzo (Sep 8, 2013)

Iggy;

The only reason I didn't use store-bought ammonia technique is because I was told that the decaying shrimp as ammonia source were an acceptable for a fishless cycle...I added the Tetra Safe-Start plus product, with no joy...so then I added the Dr. Tim's which seems to be having the desired result...I intend to graph my cycle test results and post them at some point...

Ammonia rose pretty quickly at first with three shrimp...so I removed two and it slowed and leveled out at 4ppm for the first two weeks, now it has fallen back to 2ppm (which suggests the first part of cycle is on the decline). Nitrite is indicating 2.0, still steady, and Nitrate 20 slowly rising...I guess that is fairly consistent with the typical cycle curves I've seen (although Nitrate went positive _before _nitrite, which surprised a bit, and the only reason I noticed this is because pH took a one point dip to 6.0, so I tested for nitrate...I hadn't even been checking it yet). I adjusted pH up to mid 7s and have been holding it there with small doses (1/2 teaspoon max per day) of S. Bicarb. It is now slowly creeping down again...last test today it was at 6.4, so I may add another dose of S.B. If you can, please explain interaction of Cycle and pH drifting down.

"nitrate reading you have will be inaccurate when there is nitrite still present" I hear that and will reread the fishless cycle article, to try and understand this also...

T(h)anks and Holiday Greets from Connecticut!


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I'm guessing you saw nitrates because you used Dr. Tim's. That stuff works.

What are your readings now? What is your pH out of the tap? What is your gH and kH? If your kH is low, then your pH will be unstable.


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## Ronzo (Sep 8, 2013)

I guess I'll soon be a satisfied user of Dr. Tim's also...I've seen all his vids and even spoken to him when I called asking what I should do between unsuccessful Tetra product use, and his...he certainly knows his stuff, is very helpful and when this is done and I finally have fishies in the tank with no danger of torturing and killing them unnecessarily*, I plan to make a write-up of him and his product.

I brought pH back up to 7.0 with 1/3 tsp S.B. earlier today.

I've (previously) checked (municipal) tap water at 0 ammonia, nitrites and nitrates and around 6.8pH. gh kh are unknown as I don't have a test kit for these parameters, but I don't know our water to be particularly hard...I am out of Stress Coat (I religiously use this on every drop of tap water which goes into tank) so am planning a trip to LFS today..should I take a sample and ask them to check those two parms?...how critical are those? should I get test kits for them?

Cheers

* a work colleague suggested I eliminate the middleman...buy fish at the LFS bring them home and just flush them...helpful guy ain't he...next time I go deep-sea fishing with him and a monster striper jumps on his hook while he's reeling it in, I might not grab his belt and keep him from taking a swim... :wink:


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

If you added Dr. Tim's enough for your volume of water, and you gave it an ammonia source, then your tank should be cycled. 4 ppm is a bit high for dosing. It can actually slow down your cycle. A low pH can also inhibit a cycle.

Definitely bring a sample for testing. Ask your shop to use a liquid test kit for accurate gH and kH readings. Or buy your own.


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## Ronzo (Sep 8, 2013)

I forgot to include all reading you asked for: Ammonia 1.0, Nitrite 2.0, Nitrate 20+ (but not 40), ph 7.0 (after adjustment), Temp 77-78


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## CjCichlid (Sep 14, 2005)

I'd ditch the stress coat a go with Seachem Prime or Safe (powdered form). Stress Coat has a lot of unnecessary additives; it isn't very cost effective either.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I use Seachem Prime as well, and I don't even have chlorine/chloramine in my water(well). Simply for the 'provides slime coat.'

As Chris said, you can save money. 16 oz of Stress Coat treats 940 gallons. 16.9 oz of Prime treats 5000 gallons.


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## CjCichlid (Sep 14, 2005)

On second thought, you may not want to use Prime or Safe as it removes ammonia. Not sure if Stress coat does as well.. but that could be messing with your cycle?


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

On the Prime bottle it states that 'converts ammonia into a safe, non toxic form that is readily removed by the tank's biofilter.'


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## CjCichlid (Sep 14, 2005)

Ah, well that clears that up! Disregard my last post! :thumb:


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