# Water parameters. Frontosa Tank. Need help



## sinotto (Oct 15, 2009)

Hello Frontosa fans!

First of all, I would like to share my happiness with all of you, because finally my dream comes true and now I have my own Frontosa Mpimbwe tank. But I have few questions and I hope you can help me.
Sorry for my english, this language isn't my strongest side yet, but I will try to write simply and clearly.
I should say, that there aren't enough information about these wonderful fishes in my country, because Frontosa are not popular, very expensive to order and only few Frontosa fanatics keep them. Of course, I found helpful information in this forum, but sometimes it is difficult to understand some sentences or phrases. I'm very sorry if my subject and problem is repeating.

* Tank information: *

Size - 500 l (133 gallons)
Measurement - 165cm x 50 cm x 60 cm (lenght x width x height. cm - centimetres). 165 cm=5.4 foot
Lightning - 1 x 58W Osram 67 (blue), 1 x 58W Osram WarmWhite.
Filtration - 1 x Atman CF 1200 (1200 litres/hour), 1 x Tetratec EX 1200 (1200 litres/hour), Filter substrate - EHEIM pro. I'm not using carbon filter now, should I?
Temperature - 25-26 C (77-79 F). Heater - Jager, 300 W.
Decoration - Lava rocks, Silica sand.
Air pump - EHEIM 400.

Tank has been running for 11 months. 20% Water change per week with sand cleaning. Feeding 6 days / week.
Food - MIX of Hikari Cichlid Excel and Hikari Cichlid Gold . Sometimes fishes are easily scared. Is it normal? 
Fish age - 3 of them I guess about 12-13 months, last 5 about 4-5 months. Size - the largest 2 fishes are about 8-9 cm (3-3.5 inch), others about 3-5 cm (1.2-2 inch).

* Tank water parameters:*

pH - 8.3 ; GH - 14 ; KH - 13 ; 
NH4 - 0 (mg/l or ppm) ; NO2 - 0 (mg/l or ppm) ; NO3 - 40 (mg/l or ppm). (!)
Tests - "JBL"

* Fauna:*

8 x Cyphotilapia Frontosa Mpimbwe Blue
1 x Panaque Nigrolineatus
2 x Pterygoplichtys Gibbiceps

I know that water quality (parameters), food, temperature, lightning are very important for healthy and good looking fishes.
I guess that tap water at home (we have own water mining hole) isn't very good, but I hope I'm wrong (I never used it in my tanks, just transported water from city water-supply in canisters, but I'm tired from that). What are your suggestions, can I use this water in my Frontosa tank?

There are the results/analysis of tap water (made by *Water Laboratory* two weeks ago)

pH - 7.64 ; *NH4 - 0.356 mg/l (!)* ; NO2 - <0.003 mg/l ; NO3 - <0.1 mg/l ; *Fe - 4138 Âµg/l (!)*

So, we can see, that amonnium level is 0.356 mg/l when this level should be 0. Fe (Iron) - level is high, but I red, that Fe isn't important for fishes health. Some people say, that this amonnium (NH4) level isn't dangerous and my tap water can be used in tank, because NH4 would be converted into NO2 (Nitrites) and later into NO3 (Nitrates). But some people say, that this water shouldn't be used. So what do you think?
Let's say, that this water can be used, so the question is - how to decrease NO3 level in tank without plants, but with 20% Water change per week, where we have NH4 concentration 0.356 mg/l. Hope you understand what I want to say.

If you have any suggestions/advises or if you think that I'm doing something wrong with my tank (food,lightning,equipment,care, etc.), please tell me.

There are my tank pics, sorry for poor quality.


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## sjlchgo (Mar 2, 2008)

One thing to remember is that sand can form pockets which can cause ammonia levels to rise. I would add a few snails OR make sure you are stirring the sand a couple of times a week to release those pockets.


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## TangSteve (Sep 20, 2009)

How can sand create NH4?

The only thing I have ever heard of sand creating is Hydrogren Sulfide when the bed goes anorabic.


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## daniel4832 (May 8, 2004)

The point is that the sand needs to be stirred!
A very nice looking tank and Fronts!!!
Thanks,
Daniel


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## TangSteve (Sep 20, 2009)

Just realized we never answered your question...what is the ammonia level after 24 hours of areration.


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## lloyd (Aug 24, 2005)

the ammonia from your welled tap source will disappear quickly once added to your aquarium. the bacterium we allow to colonize within the aquarium will accomplish that task quite easily. on a side to that, your nitrate reading suggests a 30-40% volume change might be prudent, considering these are maturing fish. in my grow out tanks, which accommodate cyphotilapia up to 4inch, i aim to control nitrate under 20ppm. your tank looks quite nice, and your fish appear very healthy. 
however, if YOU are consuming this water, you should be more cautious. ammonia should be zero in water for human consumption. is this a drilled, or surface collection type well?


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