# How to properly use dechlorinator



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

When I do water changes, I use the Python hose that attaches to the spigot in my kitchen, which has been very nice rather than using buckets. When I let the hose put water back in the tank, I dose the dechlorinator gradually, while the water is going in. Is this the proper way or should I dose all of the dechlorinator before the water goes in or maybe even after?


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

Your best bet is to buy one of those Rubbermaid trash cans and a fountain pump with a piece of tubing, pour a capful of prime in the trash can, fill with fresh water and use the pump to pump it into your tank. Or you can go buy a 1 cubic foot filter bottle of catalytic carbon and a 1/2 cubic foot bottle of zeolite and just hang the hose straight in your tank and fill it that way. If you add dechlorinator to the display as you're filling it, you have to dose enough for the entire volume of the tank or they will definitely be getting some chlorine burn


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

You can either use the method you are currently using by adding the product as you are adding water or you can add the product all at the start of the fill using the hose. Double check your product instructions or the company's website as they may offer more info.

Double check how much product you need to add when refilling directly from a hose rather than using the bucket method. Usually when adding new water via the hose method, you dose for the tank volume.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

You save a lot of money on dechlorinator if you use the 40 gallon trash can and pump idea though... Especially if you change out hundreds of gallons of water on water change day for several tanks. I use the catalytic carbon/zeolite method now because it's so much easier just to hang the hose in the tank and let it fill, but it's expensive to get started.


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

Both of those methods seem like great ideas but for right now, are not practical for my current situation. Python claims that their hose rids the water of chlorine through the hose somehow but I dont really trust that.

I notice that my fish rub against rocks after the water change, so it leads me to believe that they are dealing with either burn from some chlorine or another type of "shock" from the change.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

There's not much of a way around the scratching after water changes. Any change in PH, hardness, slight amount of ammonia or chlorine is going to irritate them. How much water are you changing at once and size of tank?


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

I bring the water down to half of the tank, which is less than 50% taking rocks and substrate into consideration. 75 gallon tank.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

The Python website FAQ states that a portion of the chlorine is removed due to the aeration of the water as it passes through the product but I think this assumes that the water added to the tank is above the water surface of the tank.

First you need to determine if your water authority uses only chlorine or if it uses chloramine as a disinfectant. You should use a water conditioner that treats what your water is using.

Which water conditioner (dechlorinator) are you currently using?

Also, how much product are you adding when doing a water change of 50% on the 75G tank?


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

I am currently using API Tap Water Conditioner and am dosing roughly 1 full cap per water change.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

You should be able to test the tap water for ammonia and if it's present then you have chloramine. I don't think you are using enough dechlorinator to treat the entire tank though. I would also suggest switching to prime since it covers both chlorine and chloramine, plus it's a capful per 50 gallons versus a teaspoon per 10 gallons of the API. I'd almost be willing to bet that you have chloramine because it's cheaper for water treatment facilities and very few use straight chlorine anymore.


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

I just confirmed that I do in fact have chloromine (2% average detection) coming through the tap. Funny you mentioned Prime; I actually ordered some after reading the good reviews. So what would be your suggestion, if any, on how much of Prime to dose and the method? All at once before adding water, a little at a time as it goes in, or all at once after the tank is refilled?


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

Oh, and how often are you doing water changes and what are your nitrates like when you change it? Don't know why I forgot to ask that lol. Also if you are draining the water level to half the tank height then you're taking a little more than 50% of the water because the sand and rocks displace quite a bit.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

I would put three or four capfuls of prime in then new water. The higher dosage helps to bind the ammonia until the bacteria can break it down.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I highly recommend following the product instructions for dosing; if you don't use enough, you aren't removing the disinfectant and if you use too much, there is the possibility to reduce the oxygen level in the tank.

If using Prime and adding water directly to the tank via a hose, dose for the 75G tank size and add Prime as you are adding new water unless the instructions state otherwise.

Every so often, manufacturers change the instructions and dosing levels due to product changes so read the directions.

Another point that is often missed when determining how much water conditioner is actually needed is that the disinfection level at the plant may be different (higher) than that found at your faucet tap. Low pH tap water (>7) requires a bit more conditioner than pH higher than 7.


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

I really appreciate the support from you two! Looks like I am getting conflictind ideas on how to dose the tank though.

I change roughly once per week. Nitrate around 20ppm.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

Seachem recommends using a higher dose of prime for chloramine and it's safe up to 5 times the normal dose for the entire volume of the tank. It is also viable as a binder for ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium for 24 hours.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

Also if you're only showing 20 PPM of nitrates after a week, I'd suggest cutting back to a 35% water change once a week. It's a lot less stressful on the fish and sounds like it's all that's necessary.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

I've used the method I suggested, otherwise I wouldn't have given the advice though, Deeda is just trying to make sure that your fish are safe and that's a good thing.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

This info is from Seachem's website regarding using Prime.

Directions

Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 US gallons) of new water. For smaller volumes, please note each cap thread is approximately 1 mL. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. 
If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal.

*For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely.* Bold lettering is mine. 

To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.

For emergency dose of 5 times only if your ammonia or nitrite levels are above 2 ppm, you can safely use up to 5 x the recommended amount.

I understand that everyone has a different opinion on which product to use and how to dose it but I like to defer to the mfg. suggestions. A healthy discussion is a good thing and after seeing many fish forums discussions on what to use and how much to use, it can be a bit confusing based on each aquarists particular water quality.

Ideally, knowing how much chlorine or chloramine at one's home would help to accurately figure out the dosage of product needed. From my understanding, Prime and similar products are dosage based on the maximum amount of chlorine/chloramine allowed in the U.S. If your home is less, you would need less product. The only way to figure it out would be to purchase a test kit for chlorine or chloramine and periodically test your tap water, especially prior to a water change.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

Yeah so three or four capfuls would be perfectly safe lol. You did a good job of proving my point thanks Deeda! I'd rather err on the side of dosing for "excessive chloramine" than not enough.


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

Thank you both! I did see that before on their site I believe, about adding directly to the aquarium, but it didnt specify how. I suppose it doesnt exactly matter whether it is all before, during, or all after, as long as it gets in there.


----------



## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

I use Seachem Safe and add it all when I first start to sdd the new tap water.
I've been doing this for years on all my tanks that range from 10-210g .+
1 tspn treats 200 gallons of water for chloramine. Always treat for the size of the tank, not just what you are changing.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

No problem my friend, whatever works best for you and your fish! Have a good weekend fellas, I'm going on vacation this weekend.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

There is a good article over on MFK Here that offers some additional insight on choosing and using a good water conditioner. Most of the best info is in the 1st post and some additional comments are helpful but a lot of the posts are for individual comments and sometimes go off topic. Still a good read though!


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

noddy said:


> I use Seachem Safe and add it all when I first start to sdd the new tap water.
> I've been doing this for years on all my tanks that range from 10-210g .+
> 1 tspn treats 200 gallons of water for chloramine. Always treat for the size of the tank, not just what you are changing.


Have they switched y'all to chloramine in Canada as well or do y'all still have good old chlorinated water?


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

Thanks again everyone. I really appreciate the support and hopefully this also helps others in my boat!


----------



## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

caldwelldaniel26 said:


> noddy said:
> 
> 
> > I use Seachem Safe and add it all when I first start to sdd the new tap water.
> ...


I don't know about the whole country but I do know that Toronto uses chloramine.


----------



## Trademark (Dec 31, 2016)

I change about 75% once a week and just add one cap full of prime right before I refill with the python. Don't seem to have any issues.


----------



## Rob117 (Jul 31, 2017)

Just getting back into the hobby and this post highlighted a few things that will help me down the road. Thanks all for posting. I haven't stocked with cichlids just yet as I'm just cycling the tank, I did just introduce a pair of albino bristlenose plecostomus into the tank. They are small 1 1/2"


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

Rob, I'm glad to hear that this helped you. I found the information helpful as well and can say that it seems to have made a positive difference in my tank. For one, my fish don't seem to rub against rocks after water changes anymore.

Good luck with your new setup!


----------



## Rob117 (Jul 31, 2017)

Thanks Morris I appreciate it. Now I have to figure out why my tank has clouded up. It was crystal clear at one point until I added Top Fin Media supplement. I work nights and haven't had much sleep today. Will investigate in a few hours. But if anyone has thoughts about what's going on in the meantime I'm anxious to find out. Thanks.


----------



## caldwelldaniel26 (Jun 11, 2017)

Bacterial bloom most likely. Unless you're doing an extensive filter cleaning or having a mini cycle, I don't recommend adding bacterial supplements. Reminds me of a saying we use a lot in Texas "If it ain't broke don't fix it." lol.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

The cloudiness could be a result of the supplement, a bacterial bloom or even the Prime water conditioner and should clear up after a few days. Nothing to worry about since you are just starting to cycle the tank.


----------



## dalto (Aug 20, 2006)

Deeda said:


> If using Prime and adding water directly to the tank via a hose, dose for the 75G tank size and add Prime as you are adding new water unless the instructions state otherwise.


This would be my recommendation as well.

My process is:

Use the python to drain the tank to an appropriate amount[/*]
Start the new water filling into the tank[/*]
Dose enough prime for the whole tank per the instructions on the back[/*]
Stop the flow of water before the tank overflows[/*]

The last step is the one I have the most trouble with.


----------



## Rob117 (Jul 31, 2017)

Thanks all! I don't think I need to do a water change just yet as it's only been a week running. It hasn't gotten worse, so will keep an eye on it over the weekend, will test the water and see what all the levels are and go from there. I'll report back and let you know what's going on.


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

If you get a filter that is strong enough to keep the debris in the water column so it can sweep into the filter, you can avoid daily siphoning and just do your additive mix once/week during water changes.


----------



## BuckeyeTez (May 10, 2016)

As long as you are following the directions on the bottle of prime, you can do water changes as often as needed/want. Even if you only have 20ppm after a week it would never hurt to reduce them to 10ppm or lower. There are other nutrients and elements in water that replacing can help. If you are wanting your fish to grow faster, an extra feeding and water change will help with this. I do 2x50% changes in my 125 a week and my fish are thriving.

Your nitrates can't really ever be too low. Clean water helps keep issues away and will greatly speed up any injuries that you may have from fish on fish violence or injuries due to rocks, etc.


----------



## morrismorris (Mar 21, 2017)

BuckeyeTez said:


> As long as you are following the directions on the bottle of prime, you can do water changes as often as needed/want. Even if you only have 20ppm after a week it would never hurt to reduce them to 10ppm or lower. There are other nutrients and elements in water that replacing can help. If you are wanting your fish to grow faster, an extra feeding and water change will help with this. I do 2x50% changes in my 125 a week and my fish are thriving.
> 
> Your nitrates can't really ever be too low. Clean water helps keep issues away and will greatly speed up any injuries that you may have from fish on fish violence or injuries due to rocks, etc.


That's interesting about the extra water change and fish growth. The only concern of mine there is stressing the fish too much. Whenever I do my large change, the fish sometimes freeze like a statue, so I would be concerned doing that to them any more than once per week.


----------



## Oscar6 (Aug 4, 2017)

Prime reacts instantly. The procedure is drain, add conditioner for full tank volume, refill. Overdosing, while generally harmless, will take O2 out of the water column. The powder form of Prime is Seachem Safe, more highly concentrated. More bang for the buck so to speak. 1/16 of a tsp...yes, that little, of Safe, will take care of a 75g tank.


----------

