# 75G W/crack. Patch + DIY Internal filter/eggcrate backround



## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

Gonna start w/hydrolic cement tomorrow.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

A lot of air behind that patch... I apply one big glob of silicone in the center and put weights on it. It will ooze out on most of the edges. Once it dries, I cut off the excess and if there are any edges that didn't ooze out, I fill them with a second bead from inside the tank. To me, it looks better to have less trapped air behind the patch. The critical part is the edge seal, either way you do it.


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## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

I agree that there's a good bit of air behind it. I'll keep your technique in mind for the next time, if ever I decide to do a patch again. In any case, the way it looks doesn't matter so much to me as that side will be up against a wall. The new butt seam between the patch and the rest of the tank has no airgaps that I can see at all and there's a good sized interior seal as well. I applied it all in one step and used almost two whole tubes of silicone. I probably applied it a bit too thick, but I waited over a week for it to cure, so i'm hoping that was enough time. I water-tested outside for four days and saw no trace of leaks so I decided it was time to start the internal filter to help cover up the sight of the patch. Didn't have an exact plan for the filter itself, so I'm just kind of winging it based on materials on hand. This tank will be set up on my patio anyway so i'm basically using it as a test run for a DIY350G i'm plotting that will will also go on the patio. I'm trying to figure out how much heater I'll need to keep the temp stable in a tank outside...


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

imusuallyuseless said:


> I'm trying to figure out how much heater I'll need to keep the temp stable in a tank outside...


It all depends on water movement IMO, if you are going to be agitating the surface much, you will have a lot of evaporation which will cool the water tremendously (unless the top is covered). You will probably need some extra heaters to go on at night with timers so that the temp doesn't plummet during the night, additionally I would insulate the tank to keep the temp stable. But I'm sure you already have some plans in mind to achieve a stable temp outside.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

My brother-in-law keeps all his tanks outside and he's retired, so he can go out with a shade of slats when it's too warm, and drape them at night. If you're not retired, you could stabilize the temperature with a deep (geothermal) sump buried in the ground instead. They may not build houses with basements near you, but a plastic (or you can choose fiberglass) sump well about ten feet tall is available in parts of the country where they do build basements. Put the pump at the bottom where the water temperature will be most stable, as as the water from the tank enters, it will be cooled or heated by the ground temperature. Be sure there is a lockable lid on the sump, or a very heavy concrete lid only an adult can lift.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

While the end may not bother you right now, I would go with a coat of black paint over the end before putting it in service. Might make it better when it is veiwed??? :thumb:


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## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

*mightyevil*, At this point I'm thinking nearly completely covered top, but to have an airpump provide surface aggitation. Not sure how much REALLY needs to be exposed in order to maintain acceptable gas exchange :-? 
*Mcdaphnia*, That's certainly an interesting idea that'll I'll keep in mind for the future, BUT i'm not sure the managers of my apartment complex would be too happy w/me trying to bury a giant sump on their property  
*PfunMo*, Not sure exactly what you mean, painting inside or outside? The inside will be blocked from view once my eggcrate is covered in hydrolic cement. The outside still won't matter as it'll be going up against a wall on that end :fish:


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

imusuallyuseless said:


> *mightyevil*, At this point I'm thinking nearly completely covered top, but to have an airpump provide surface aggitation. Not sure how much REALLY needs to be exposed in order to maintain acceptable gas exchange :-?


Beats me... maybe McDaphnia can give some recommendation on that or maybe you can move one of those returns to the very top to agitate the surface that way instead of having an air pump...just a thought.


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## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

mightyevil said:


> Beats me... maybe McDaphnia can give some recommendation on that or maybe you can move one of those returns to the very top to agitate the surface that way instead of having an air pump...just a thought.


Any input McDaphnia???


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## aji1217 (Aug 22, 2009)

how is it coming. I am interested in seeing how you do the corner filter!


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

Very very hard to have an airtight canopy or tank lid. You are going to get air exchange. If it worries you a little muffin fan like the one probably making noise at the back of your computer right now would be enough to circulate air, for the tank, and for the "comfort" of the lighting system if it's enclosed over the water.


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## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

aji1217 said:


> how is it coming. I am interested in seeing how you do the corner filter!


It's been put on hold for now. For some reason my water pumps have been getting fried, but it's weird because none of my other electrical equipment has had any problems :-? :-? :-?


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

imusuallyuseless said:


> .... For some reason my water pumps have been getting fried, but it's weird because none of my other electrical equipment has had any problems :-? :-? :-?


Cavitation can harm water pumps if there is more resistance on the intake side than the output side. Any valves or clips used to slow/adjust water flow should be after the pump, not before it. That would not affect your other "power tools".


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## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

Thanks for the insight. Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I wasn't using anything to restrict the intake in any way. I took apart my rio2500hp a few times and found no debris within it. After messing w/it for a good while it finally started working again. I'm really unsure as to what the problem could've been :-? My other pumps/powerheads were of the smaller variety and can't be taken apart and still won't work at all :?


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