# 150 Gallon Tank Build W/ PLC Automatic Water Change system



## stage3-s4 (Jan 13, 2013)

Hello all, I figured I would share with everyone the project that I have been working over the past few weeks. Its still in the process but wanted to post Pics of the build as I went along.

Basically I Started out with an old 150 Gallon tank that I found for really cheap on craigslist. I ended up re-siliconing the sides because it like the silicone was all dray and cracked. The bottom silicone seemed perfectly fine and had a huge bead all around the bottom pane of glass. I ended up drilling the tank as well since I will be using a sump. I used a 1500GPH Overflow box kit from glass-holes.com. I highly recommend using them for all of your return kit needs. Much better than using an overflow box. They are much quieter and you don't have to worry about siphon break and leaks. I have drilled over 4 tanks now and Have never had a problem. If you follow their directions it really is idiot proof. 
I'm also using 2 1" returns that I drilled and fitted with bulkheads. See pictures below:


































I also decided that I wanted to have a sump for this tank so that I can really stock the tank to my liking and keep the maintenance relatively simple. The basic plan for the sump is that it will be 36"x13"x16". It is going to be a basic wet/dry trickle filter design with about 7-8 gallons of bio balls. I will be using filter socks as well. I really love using filter socks because they are easy to clean and save costs since you can throw them into the washing machine with some bleach and they are like brand new. I'm contemplating about adding bags of carbon and/or crushed coral to pump return section. I could use some feedback on this. I have seen some mixed feelings on using carbon so that's still up in the air.

The initial plan was to build the sump out of acrylic. As it turns out this rather expensive as a 3/8" thick 48"x96" sheet is about 400 bucks. Its also very time consuming to build a sump out of acrylic as all of the joints have to be bonded perfectly without any air bubbles. After some research I decided that I would construct the sump using 3/8" thick Polypropylene plastic sheet ($135 for a 48"x96" sheet). The beauty of this is you can actually weld polypropylene with a plastic welder. This makes joining peaces much easier as you can melt the two pieces in the joint with a bead of polypropylene rod. I have just purchased the welder for about 160 and I'm waiting for my cut pieces of polypropylene to arrive from the plastic supplier. As soon I start construction on this I will be sure to include more pictures on information on the process. If anyone is interested in working with Polypropylene just shoot me a pm.

I wanted to design an automatic water change system. So I ended up deciding to use a PLC unit since they are very easy to program and offer lots of Flexibility. The way I have design the system as in two parts. 
the first part is the mixing container that will mix the new water with de-chlorination and also heat the water to the correct temperature before adding it to the display tank. This also allows me to add PH buffers to the water before adding it to the system as well. What I decided to do is to Tee off my main water line in my house and add an electronic solenoid valve that would automatically add water to the container when it was drained.

The second part was draining a certain amount of water from the tank and then adding the new pre-mixed water after that. To drain the tank I was originally going to add a PVC solenoid valve that teed off of the main return pump on the system. This would have worked except a 1" PVC solenoid valve is about 300 bucks. I didn't want to send that kind of money on a simple valve. So I decided to just add a second pump that would drain the sump. So the basic sequence of operation is as follows:

1. Check level of mixing container. If Ok proceed to step 2
2. Turn off Return pump. Wait X amount of time for sump to fill.
3. After x amount of time, turn on drain pump and drain sump until certain level is reached.
4. Turn drain pump off. 
5. Turn new water fill pump on in mixing container. Fill sump until certain level reached.
6. Turn off Fill pump
7. Turn on return pump

Its pretty simply when you think about it. It may be hard to visualize some of this. So I will be sure to add more pictures once I make more progress. I opted to use an Allen Bradley Pico controller as I get it for relatively cheap on ebay. They are simple to program and wire up. I'm really happy with this unit. I also decided to use PEX pipe and shark fittings for the draing and return piping for the water change system. This pipe is great for snaking throw walls and ceilings and no messy glue is needed. I'm not sure if I would use it on my display tank. I'll see how I like it when I use it. Anyways here are some pics of my setup.

Custom made stand out of 2x8s and 2x4s doubled up on each corner:









Here is my Solenoid valve from the domestic water supply. I just tied off of the main line and soldered some pipes and fittings to make it work. I added hose bibs for easy disconnecting. 









Here are some pictures of my PEX piping through the ceiling and walls. 

































Some pictures of my PLC setup. I really like using these phonenix contact terminal blocks. I would use them again. I also found an enclosure cheap on ebay.


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## JimA (Nov 7, 2009)

Nice build! Curious what that trim psc is on top of your stand,looks like a foam strip? If so I would remove it and go with a psc of 3/4" ply or something else..


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Love build threads...opcorn:


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## stage3-s4 (Jan 13, 2013)

I actually put some foam insulation on the top of the stand to help distribute the load evenly on the pieces of wood since they are never truly flat. Its more of an experiment at this point since I usually just put it on the bottom of the stand. Im going to test fit the tank on the stand once i get someone to help me lift it up there. This tank weights about 350 lbs believe it or not.

Also someone suggested that i re-silicone the bottom pane of glass as well. Im going to put some pics on here to see what people think. Its just a pita to get jt all out with a razor blade.


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## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

I also have a glass-holes overflow. To minimize the potential of gurgling, I would highly recommend that you keep hard, 90 degree turns to the minimum. Use 45's where you can. FYI


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## stage3-s4 (Jan 13, 2013)

Thanks for the tip. I have on my reef tank and its pretty quiet. I only have 1 90 degree bend though. Thanks for the tip. I will use 45s this time around.


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## Dexter. (Oct 23, 2012)

Build looks good.

Curious as to what that s4 looks like though 8)

I have a 3076r on my 1.8t GTI, love me some s4 :thumb:


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## stage3-s4 (Jan 13, 2013)

**** thats a big turbo. I can only imagine the torque steer on that thing. Nothing really amazing just a regular Stage 3 s4. I actually Just bought a 2012 Golf R as a daily driver. I'm probably going to sell the s4 though. Too old and I hate working on it.

Thanks though.


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## stage3-s4 (Jan 13, 2013)

Sorry for the late update things have been crazy around here. I haven't had a ton of time to work on anything but I did manage to finish my sump. I have to just have to drill holes for the bulkheads, add the bio balls, and put in the drip tray. The sump is 36" x 13" and will approximately 10 gallons of bio balls. I actually found contruct the sump out of polypropylene much easier than acrylic. No worries about cure times and bubbles in the seam.

Here is the heat gun I used:


















36" x 13" PP Sump:





































I also made a custom wiring harness for all of the controls and ran the wires through the wall. I have everything color coded for easy origination.


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## stage3-s4 (Jan 13, 2013)

Sorry for the long time between updates. I had some family issues to deal with in the last 6 months. I finally was able to start working on the tank again. I'm hopping to have it setup in a few weeks. I have a few questions for everyone though.

1. What should I stock in this tank? Still unsure but leaning towards ether an Mbuna tank or an all male peacock tank. What do you recommend?

2. I really want to put a 3d background in this tank but haven't found much info on using one with a drilled tank and an overflow box. Anyone have any experience with this?

Completed PP Sump with 2 Bio-Ball chambers. Pretty happy with the outcome.









Here is the enclosure at the tank with 2 Relays, and a 20amp circuit breaker. The Entire Tank will be powered from this location. Makes wiring and organization much easier.



20W AQUA UV sterilizer mounted to back of stand.



Here are 3 GFI outlets under the stand. 1 For each relay and 1 constant Power for lights, heaters, etc.


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## stage3-s4 (Jan 13, 2013)

Did some plumbing. I didn't have the fitting I needed to finish the retun piping. Next step is to mount the tank on the stand.


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