# You guys with large tanks ... how do you do water changes??



## Hanafuda (Mar 31, 2010)

The largest tank I ever kept before was a 55, and that was some years ago. We bought a house last fall and while we're still in the process of populating the place with better furniture and what-not, I'm also making plans to get back to keeping fish. Since I have the house, sky's the limit so I've been thinking about a 180 with some large cichlids. But even a 30% water change would require more than 50 gallons. I used to fill a couple 5 gallon buckets and let 'em sit for a couple days to eliminate chlorine, and I knew I should have heated the water to tank temp but I didn't do that back in the day. But 10+ buckets, especially if I'm going to heat the water beforehand, just isn't reasonable. And AFAIK a largish garbage can isn't really made to be filled with water, nor would it be easy to move around.

If you have a tank sized 15 or larger, how do you do your changes? Do you let the water set for a couple days, or use chemicals to eliminate chlorine? Do you bother with heating the new water to tank temp before doing the change?

Just curious. :-?


----------



## whitedevil13 (Apr 28, 2010)

I have RO water and a 45g heated holding tank for it.

Biggest tank I have is a 52 so the 25gpd unit was fine but I have a 210 now and water changes I think are going to just be a siphon off possibly automatic water changer but gravel vac will be done with a magnum 350.

I dont treat my water with anything as it doesnt need to be.

when I filled out of the tap I put in dechlor and used a thermometer to get the water exactly 5 degrees cooler then my tank to simulate a cool rain shower(spawning trick). I used to let it sit to gas off but gave up on that real fast and just treated and used peat to bring the Ph down.


----------



## kriskm (Dec 1, 2009)

Big tanks require a python or home-made python device. I attached a normal, large gravel vacuum tube to about 20' of flexible tubing from a large hardware store. My 125 gal tank is next to a window, and below the window I placed a rain barrel with a length of PVC tube sticking up from it. I suck on the end of the flexible tubing to get the flow started, then stick it out the window, into the PVC tube, where it flows into the rain barrel. (I attached a soaker hose to the rain barrel spigot, and water my plants.) To add water, I attach the flexible tubing directly to my kitchen sink faucet (the faucet is one that you can pull out, and when you take off the end, the flexible tubing fits neatly over the end of it). I start the water, and then go to the tank and monitor the temp of water flowing in with my hand. I add Prime and buffer salts directly to the tank as I'm refilling it. I do 50% water changes in less time than it used to take for a 20% change on my 55 gal.


----------



## LSBoost (Jan 21, 2010)

Python, Good water conditioner, Hot and cold water from sink (flush your water heater if you haven't done so in a year or two).


----------



## RaizedWICKED (Feb 10, 2010)

Python, long hose, conditioner, and time... 

my 180G takes roughly 1.5 hours to clean, longer if I am doing filter cleanings. But straight forward water change is close to 2 hours. That would include draining the tank about 80% cleaning the prefilter sponges on intakes, cleaing the glass, whether it needs to be or not the glass gets a scrubb every week. Stirring the sand substrate, done every 3 weeks.

Dirty fish water in the summer months goes to the flowers and lawn. My lawn looks great!! 

Winter months the water goes down the drain, with the exception of a 5 gallon bucket which is used to water house plants.

ANd done. 8) my wife thinks I am crazy for doing it every week, she just doesn't understand. 

RW


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Me too with the Python. My 125G takes 20 minutes to drain and 20 min to refill. I usually do 75%-80% water changes.

Back in the day the water treatment companies did not use chloramines (chlorine only), but now most do use chloramine. It does not evaporate (which is why they use it, LOL) do letting the water stand has lost it's benefit. Most think dechlor is necessary.

I have a private well so I don't need to treat the water. Just attach my Python to a tap with hot/cold control, set it to the temp of the tank, and go.


----------



## Hanafuda (Mar 31, 2010)

Hmm. I'm surprised the python is so popular. But thanks for the tip on chloramine DJRansome ... did not know that. Not happy to hear it either cuz I just basically HATE needing to buy any kind of chemicals. Anyway, my major concern was not in how big tank owners removed water, but where your water came from for refilling. Straight from the tap was not what I expected to hear.

Just out of curiosity about how to use the python, I searched youtube and found this idiot:






She's an expert. :roll:

But I also found this video which I liked very much:






Her technique is just as atrocious, but I didn't pay much attention to the fish tank. :thumb:


----------



## Malawidolphin (Dec 15, 2006)

I use a cheap garden hose that doesn't contain any anti-mould agents in it. I drain 50% into the floor drain in my laundry room and then attach the hose to the sink and start to re-fill adjusting the temp to match the tank. I do not need to add any dechlor as we are on a well, but when i did live with chloronated water I just added the conditioner to the tank as it filled. If I am not doing filters it takes me about 30-45 minutes to do a 46g & 55g.


----------



## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

We do a hundred gallon a week on a 210. Siphon onto the lawn or bushes and fill straight from the tap. We add prime directly to the DT just prior to adding the water and dose with baking soda, epsom salts and aquarium salt slowly as the level rises. We lower the temp a few degrees than tank temp and it does not seem to bother the stock with the tank temp mebbe going down less than 2Ã‚Â°.


----------



## kaivalagi (Nov 30, 2009)

I just moved up to a 5ft tank and wasn't willing to take all day with buckets so I built my own python using garden hose (cut a bit off my already bought one) and cheap non-brand hose connectors, pic below:









Works a treat and cost around Ã‚Â£15...the only issue I have is that I don't have a mixer tap anywhere in the house so am using only cold water and having to limit the % of water changed right now to only move the tank temp by 1-2 degrees...I need a mixer next 

It takes no time so I am happy to do a couple of changes a week right now...

Dechlorinator is only really needed for larger changes but I always use it (just in case) and don't forget to turn the filtration off whilst you fill...


----------



## whitedevil13 (Apr 28, 2010)

I as well made my own python for my 52,45 and 40. I was dumb and went with the RV hose the white one, it collapses every time, Kaiv....what is the faucet adapter called, that one looks like its built ALOT better then the ones that are easy to obtain here in the states.


----------



## kaivalagi (Nov 30, 2009)

whitedevil13 said:


> I as well made my own python for my 52,45 and 40. I was dumb and went with the RV hose the white one, it collapses every time, Kaiv....what is the faucet adapter called, that one looks like its built ALOT better then the ones that are easy to obtain here in the states.


It's a "Hozelock Multi Tap Connector" and it comes with different rubber inserts to fit different tap fittings, I'm based in the UK though, not sure it that affects anything?

diy shop web page for it: http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wc...lay?langId=-1&storeId=20001&partNumber=157714


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Large storage tank. The water is drained from the sump via the circulation pump, then refilled from a pump in the storage tank.


----------



## kaivalagi (Nov 30, 2009)

Show off! 

Verrrry nice though


----------



## LSBoost (Jan 21, 2010)

Taking fish keeping to the next level eh? :thumb:


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I just have to keep it easy to keep up with if I want to continue doing this for another 10-15 years.


----------



## Elvis Priestly (Dec 19, 2009)

Kaivalagi - thanks for the tips. I'm in the UK so that's very helpful.


----------



## kaivalagi (Nov 30, 2009)

Elvis Priestly said:


> Kaivalagi - thanks for the tips. I'm in the UK so that's very helpful.


So that's where Elvis went :lol:

Glad to be of some help


----------



## RaizedWICKED (Feb 10, 2010)

oh come on prov356 !!!!  that set up looks like it would sustain a water park...... 

Looks great.. I only wish I could have a set up like that... very impressive..

RW


----------



## liquid134 (Feb 22, 2010)

yea prov356, im curious in more pictures of your setup!!!!! fantastic job man


----------



## RyanR (Apr 29, 2008)

Does anyone have a cheap source for water tanks? It'd be nice to get something handy for the winter months when the tap water comes into the house colder... maybe to throw a submersible heater or two in there the day before.

I'm using tubing and pumps right now (kitchen tap won't take an adapter), and the hot water heater is the bottleneck. Plenty of 80*F water 6 months of the year, but I've got to pace myself in the winter.

Thanks!

-Ryan


----------



## PsYcHoTiC_MaDmAn (Dec 26, 2005)

rubbermaid boxes. currently have 600l sitting in buckets heating up the big 150l boxes cost me Ã‚Â£10 each, whish is $15ish, though will vary on the shops you have. they stack inside each other (and take general fishkeeping stuff) have lids (so cats dont fall in...) currently have a mix of 150l 100l, 50l, as well as a 70l bin, and a selection of buckets. I also use a sump pump cause it makes it so much easier.

it takes about an hour to do the 180g bit longer when doing filters. the biggest issue is filling the buckets beforehand. which I fill with a long hose with a hockystick pipe on the end so I can hook it over the edge and leave it.


----------



## Hanafuda (Mar 31, 2010)

PsYcHoTiC_MaDmAn said:


> rubbermaid boxes.


do they look like this one?










they're called "Roughneck" containers here. I know a lot of people use them for a poor-man's sump in a wet/dry setup with a 5 gallon bucket for the media container. I've given it some thought too, but apparently they tend to bow out when filled with water? I've seen pics where someone has made a wooden perimeter frame for structural support so they don't bow out so badly. That kinda scared me off the idea of using one for a sump, mainly due to concern over longterm effects/cracking plastic.

But I guess for temporary holding tanks for water changes I wouldn't be as concerned. How are you heating the water? Typical submersible heater mounted on a glass plate?


----------



## smitty (May 7, 2004)

I currently have 3 tanks. All three tanks have delicate plecos. I use no carbon, amonia chips, nothing. I clean my tanks every 10 days. The filters only in one cleaning. the next water change only the gravel. I do not sit water to the side. When I fill my tank I use water straight from the tap. I have it go in slowly. Very slowly. During winter months when the water is coming in so cold I keep an eye on the temp just in case I have to add some hot water. Once I get the water high enought where I can turn on my filter I stop. After several hours I will fill it the rest of the way on full blast.


----------



## PsYcHoTiC_MaDmAn (Dec 26, 2005)

I'll grab a photo of mine to show you. they do bow slightly, but not that bad, putting the lid on removes most of the bowing, there is a slight bow to the ides but its minimal









thats the sort I use

I've used them as Q tanks on many occasions, as for heating, I just throw the heater in there, no glass plate - it heats by convection, so the water takes the heat, not the plastic (they come with plastic heat guards) I've been doing this for years no issue in the slightest (accidentally breaking boxes however.... its happened a few times, though duct tape usually patched them up)


----------



## PsYcHoTiC_MaDmAn (Dec 26, 2005)

said I'd grab photos, did it with my phone, so image isn't the greatest









600l waiting to go.

and for those worried about bowing.








as you can see there is some bowing but minimal








slightly more pronounced here. but nothing major


----------



## Bearbear (May 8, 2010)

Use "Toter 96 Gallon Contractor Grade Greenstone Wheeled Refuse" from Home Depot.

Just a large sturdy trash can, more expensive but haven't noticed any bowing yet. Drop a 300 watt submersible heater in it day before and heats it up. Was worried about circulation, but that doesn't appear to be an issue, just put heater in middle of can.

Just need to add a bulk head and nozzle for easy draining, put it on an elevated surface and let it drain into your jugs/buckets.
Have a water softener so I rather not use a python.


----------



## BoBster9999 (Apr 19, 2010)

kaivalagi said:


> I just moved up to a 5ft tank and wasn't willing to take all day with buckets so I built my own python using garden hose (cut a bit off my already bought one) and cheap non-brand hose connectors, pic below:
> 
> Works a treat and cost around Ã‚Â£15...the only issue I have is that I don't have a mixer tap anywhere in the house so am using only cold water and having to limit the % of water changed right now to only move the tank temp by 1-2 degrees...I need a mixer next
> 
> ...


I've made up something just like this and for re-filling its great! I can't seem to find a way to make it work for empting the tank tho. Other than getting a submersible pump for the tank end and pumping it out of the tank. I thought the T piece with the tap water running out of it should create a vacumn to pull the water from the tank, but it seems not  any ideas?


----------



## kaivalagi (Nov 30, 2009)

BoBster9999 said:


> I've made up something just like this and for re-filling its great! I can't seem to find a way to make it work for empting the tank tho. Other than getting a submersible pump for the tank end and pumping it out of the tank. I thought the T piece with the tap water running out of it should create a vacumn to pull the water from the tank, but it seems not  any ideas?


It takes a bit of practice to get the syphoning to work, I tend to turn the tap on full for about 5 seconds or so then slowly turn it off...you'll get air pushed out of the hose into the tank first and once it's water all the way through the hose once you turn the tap off you'll get it coming through from the tank to the sink.


----------



## BoBster9999 (Apr 19, 2010)

Ahhh ok. I did notice the air coming through. The pipe is quite long so i will try leaving it for longer for the water to make its way up the pipe first. Will let you know how i get on 

Thanks.


----------



## edder (May 18, 2010)

Fish lover... 
Is a nature lover...
Keep up the good work guys....


----------



## TheFishFactory (Jan 28, 2010)

I use a 7500l/h pump attached to tubing to pump out and then fill a bath/ sink with treated water at around the same temperature to pump back in. I change 60% of 8 300l tanks in less than an hour


----------



## BoBster9999 (Apr 19, 2010)

Well its working!!! yay!!! however it is a little slow lol. but thats not a big issue. thanks for the help


----------



## trimac (Mar 27, 2003)

Hanafuda said:


> The largest tank I ever kept before was a 55, and that was some years ago. We bought a house last fall and while we're still in the process of populating the place with better furniture and what-not, I'm also making plans to get back to keeping fish. Since I have the house, sky's the limit so I've been thinking about a 180 with some large cichlids. But even a 30% water change would require more than 50 gallons. I used to fill a couple 5 gallon buckets and let 'em sit for a couple days to eliminate chlorine, and I knew I should have heated the water to tank temp but I didn't do that back in the day. But 10+ buckets, especially if I'm going to heat the water beforehand, just isn't reasonable. And AFAIK a largish garbage can isn't really made to be filled with water, nor would it be easy to move around.
> 
> If you have a tank sized 15 or larger, how do you do your changes? Do you let the water set for a couple days, or use chemicals to eliminate chlorine? Do you bother with heating the new water to tank temp before doing the change?
> 
> Just curious. :-?


If the tank is cycled you dont have to let the water set. I just add water from the hose-sometimes I add salt or stress coat. Filters-have bacteria Gravel-has bacteria Remaining Water-has bacteria-just as long as the tank is established.


----------



## RyanR (Apr 29, 2008)

prov356 said:


> Large storage tank. The water is drained from the sump via the circulation pump, then refilled from a pump in the storage tank.


Very nice! Were you able to find this storage tank localishly in OH?

Thanks!
-Ryan


----------

