# Setting up a 210 gallon Tank



## degrave4256 (Apr 10, 2010)

I have just recently purchased a 210 gallon tank. I haven't completely descided what I'm going to be doing with It yet but I'm Leaning towards a mbuna tank. I really like the looks of saltwater systems but dont want to invest that kinda money into a tank so I'm going with the next best option...cichlids. When its all finished hoping someone could look at it and ask "Is that Saltwater?"

I'm a firm believer in doing things right the first time (cause I'm lazy and dont want to have to fix it later) so what I'm looking for is any suggestions that might keep me from going "Wish I would have done this instead" That and any setup tips that make life alittle simpler in the long run would be great.

My Set up as of now:

210 Gallon Glass 72" x 24" x 27" tall (drilled)
Marineland Sump Model 4 dual filtration module
2 Marineland utility pumps model 5500
2 300 Watt submersible Heaters
Lighting undecided, but thinking 10k and Actinic... Suggestions?
Filter Media...What's best for Cichlids? I have 6 trays to fill.

I'm considering putting in an undergravel Jet system of some sort. I'm thinking Return on one end and output on the other to create a stream effect across the bottom. Hoping that will also aid in keeping the substrate cleaner. Any ideas on pump size for a light current?

Any suggestions on substrate? I like the looks of Pool filters sand but have had issues with it ruining pumps in the past. Worried it may get kicked up by stream effect eat another pump.

As Far as decor I will be building MANY cave formations out of Misc rocks I have collected over the years. Planning on glueing several formations together and stacking the formations. How much rock is too much? I tend to put alot of rock in my aquariums. I'm going to put down that egg crate stuff first to spread the weight. The glass is 3/4" thick on the bottom.

Finally, Stocking the Tank 
I have never had cichlids in the past so I'm not to famialiar with what all is out there. But from what I've seen so far I think the mbuna is probably what I'm looking for. Most important to me is lots of vibrant color and alot of activity in the tank. Here are some of the ones that really caught my eye:

Cynotilapia afra (cobue)
Cynotilapia afra (lummbia)
Labidochromis caeruleus (lion's Cove)
Labidochromis sp (Permutt)
Labidochromis sp (Mbamba)
Labeotropheus trewavasae (Chilumba)
Labeotropheus trewavasae (Mpanga)
Labeotropheus trewavasae (Zimbawe)
Metriaclima estherae (Red)
Metriaclima sp. (Aurora Yellow)
Pseudotropheus flavus
Pseudotropheus socolofi
Pseudotropheus sp (Msuli)

Really dont know much about these so any advise as to Male to female ratios, what order to introduce them into the tank, etc would be great. Also I'm not dead set on mbunas either so if anyone has suggestions as to other species I'm open for Ideas.

Last thought...Java Moss I would like to put some sort of plant life in there also but assuming a large tank full of mbunas would have it destroyed really quick.


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## rgr4475 (Mar 19, 2008)

I can give you some suggestions. I just set up a 180g tank that is still cycling. For the lighting I went with aT5HO 10k with an actinic bulb set up. I have 2 36" light fixtures. It's very nice but I really didn't like the actinic bulb. It was super bright with all 4 bulbs going. Some love it, I wasn't a huge fan of it. I took out the actinic bulbs and I am very happy with the set up now. If I go with live plants in the future that may change.

Filter media is pretty basic. I would use bio balls or plastic pot scrubbers as your bio filtration. Plenty of it, if that's the only filter you're running. I'm not super familiar with wet/dry systems so I will let some others chime in there on what specifically to add.

I used pool filter sand and like it very much. Most African cichlids have sand in the their native environment plus I like the look of the sand. PFS is seems to be a little bit denser than other sands and I have had no problems with it getting sucked up. Plenty on here have used UGJ with PFS with success. The only downfall I can see is that you may see the tips of the jets peaking through the sand here and there.

If you are keeping mbunas, then lots of rock formations are good. You can pretty much put as much rock in as you want with in reason, your tank will be able to support it. Make sure you put your rock right on top of the egg crate then add your substrate.

I'm not real good at knowing what specific species would work best together but with mbunas, most of them are best kept 1M to 4 or 5 females.

Another suggestion is an all make Hap/Peacock tank which is what I am going to be doing once my tank is cycled. Another suggestion is Tropheus colonies but I don't know much about them. Good luck with your set up and post some pics when you get the tank up and running. :fish:


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## DaveZ17 (Sep 14, 2009)

You propably dont want to hear this but I think you should just go SW right now.

I set up my 600g last year with cichlids thinking it would be just as nice as SW.

*** decided to sell everything and go SW. The cost is a little more but Ill be making my own live rock, have the lights, and I am going with fish only.

It sounds to me like youre not sure about setting this up with cichlids. You may get this tank done and sit back and realize that you wish you had gone SW.

I love cichlids but after having a SW reef tank for 4 yrs. its hard to go back to FW. Ill probably get attacked by the die-hard cichlid lovers for writing this but its just one fish addicts opinion.


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## frank1rizzo (Mar 14, 2005)

I I know a ton of people who switched from salt to cichlids. Salt was too expensive and too much work.

To each their own. :thumb:


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

sadly the downside to having one large tank is that you're actually more limited in your stock than you think. i prefer multiple tanks, because like you, most of the fish i like can't be mixed together so it's best to have 4-5 4 foot tanks than one huge tank.

I wouldn't mix fish of the same genus, which means only about half your list would work together

pseudotropheus would be the exception


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## degrave4256 (Apr 10, 2010)

I'm 90% sure a cichlid tank (saving that extra 10% for some cool oddball fish I never seen or heard of)is what I want to do. While I would love to build a SW system I think there is probably to much upkeep. Part of my problem is I'm gone alot so I need something that is easy to maintain and easy for others to care for while im away.

The tank was originally for my Red Tailed Cat but he died. Thought about getting another but he got a bit boring the bigger he got so I would rather have several small fish always on the go.

Didn't know you could grow your own live rock for SW. Hows that done and how long?

Can mbuna and haps/peacock be mixed? Kinda interested in the Tropheus colony thing. Have to look more into that

My sump has a bio wheel would using bio balls be overkill or would a carbon or amonia pad be better?

I'll get some pics posted as soon as I get a chance.


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

bioballs underneath some floss would be good, unless that model sumo is the one with biowheels


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

cjacob316 said:


> sadly the downside to having one large tank is that you're actually more limited in your stock than you think.


I am not sure there is a down side to owning a larger tank. You can actually put more variety of fish in a larger tank than you can in a 4' tank. There are some fish that would absolutely kill each other in a 4' tank yet get along just fine in a 210G. Those Zebras play better when given 6 feet of tank space.

You are actually limited to what you can stock with a 4 foot tank having to mix more prudently to keep harmony without losses or hybridizing. More people remark at how interesting our big tank is than any of our smaller tanks.

We have a 210 stocked with mixed haps/ mbuna. There are times when they choose sides and all out war ensues, that is what happens with mbuna. Our stock consists of:

2 f. rostratus m/f
2 n. venustus m/f
2 c. borleyi males
4 c. moori m/ 3f
1 c. caeruleus juvie ?
2 O.B. peacock ?/f
3 p. phenochilus tanzania juvies m/2f
3 m. estherae, m/ 2f 4 juvie, and 20 or so fry (a few less each week)
2 m. callainos 2/m
1 m. Auratus female in male color
1 m. johannii m
1 m. greshakei albino f spawns with the zebra and gets pick on often, might remove
1 m. lombardoi f
1 p. crabro m might be a girl, just love this fish and its ability to just go black

We had to take out our yellow labs since the zebra would spawn with them and a 10" pleco was removed as they would pick at its eyes, he healed nicely.

As you can see the variety in a 210 is not lacking for color, size or action.


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

*fox*

there is a down side, if you read the whole statement you'd see it

you can't mix all the fish he likes in one tank, there is a downside, big downside imo

don't partially quote me to insult me, it's my opinion and i'm right, sorry, it's better to have multiple tanks if most of the fish you like are in the same genus and shouldn't be mixed.

it may not be a downside for someone like you who likes all types of fish, but i don't, i'm selective and i can't mix everythiing i like. multiple 4 foot tanks are better for that. you can't argue against it


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

No , I did not pick and choose your words or seek an argument. I used your statement and left out your opinions. What you would do if you had a choice is just that, your opinion. But to state that one is more limited to what fish can be kept in a larger tank is well just wrong. We are all entitled to our own opinions, facts well thats another matter altogether.

You can put two fish that would absolutely kill each other inna 4 foot tank in a 6 foot tank with better oods of them co- habitating. If you want to keep species independent stock in a 55 gallon tank you could do the same in a 125 gallon tank. One can keep bumble bees, kenyis, zebras, callainos, auratus, and johannii in a 6' tank ... try it in a 55 and let me know how that worked out for you in four or five years.

I am not looking for an argument, don't take it there. Debate is good for the community. The OP asked if Haps/ mbuna/ peacock could be mixed in a larger tank and I have a stocklist of just that working for quite a few years with no fatalities in a 210 Gallon tank.

cheers m8


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Clearly, the OP posted a list of fish that "caught his eye", not that he wanted every one of those species, or that he wouldn't be open to other suggestions as well. You may not be able to stick his entire wish list in one large tank, but you can definitely choose an appropriate stock list for any size tank from the list of species supplied.

The OP also didn't ask whether he should trade in his larger tank for a smaller, or whether he wanted multiple tanks. Maybe he can have multiple 220g tanks, which is even better than multiple 4' tanks, no?


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## LSBoost (Jan 21, 2010)

Rhinox said:


> Clearly, the OP posted a list of fish that "caught his eye", not that he wanted every one of those species, or that he wouldn't be open to other suggestions as well. You may not be able to stick his entire wish list in one large tank, but you can definitely choose an appropriate stock list for any size tank from the list of species supplied.
> 
> The OP also didn't ask whether he should trade in his larger tank for a smaller, or whether he wanted multiple tanks. Maybe he can have multiple 220g tanks, which is even better than multiple 4' tanks, no?


Maybe opcorn:


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

fox said:


> No , I did not pick and choose your words or seek an argument. I used your statement and left out your opinions. What you would do if you had a choice is just that, your opinion. But to state that one is more limited to what fish can be kept in a larger tank is well just wrong. We are all entitled to our own opinions, facts well thats another matter altogether.
> 
> You can put two fish that would absolutely kill each other inna 4 foot tank in a 6 foot tank with better oods of them co- habitating. If you want to keep species independent stock in a 55 gallon tank you could do the same in a 125 gallon tank. One can keep bumble bees, kenyis, zebras, callainos, auratus, and johannii in a 6' tank ... try it in a 55 and let me know how that worked out for you in four or five years.
> 
> ...


I was completely speaking about his situation, and not yours, so i was not wrong, sorry.

the OP did not list all those super aggressive mbuna, most (maybe all) of his list could easily work in 4 footers. that's where your reasoning fails and mine is completely valid.

if i had put a specific list of fish that caught me eye, chances are those are the fish i want. i was simply putting out there that they don't mix, I wasn't telling him not to have the 210, it was just my opinion because *I'D* rather have all the species i like than have a huge tank with only have the species I like. If the OP is open to more species than his list, or doesn't necessarily want all of those fish, then he's in good shape and will probably be happy. I wasn't trying to start an argument, fox did that by arguing against my point. my point was very valid though and did not deserve to be put down. since I was only talking about this list and this specific situation I was not so far off. if i was talking in general, taking every malawi fish into consideration, then i would not have even made my statement, because obviously it would be wrong. but like I said I was only talking about this situation and his specific list of fish, that was my objective and concern


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

Well, if you want to do it right the first time, forget the Malawi's and get some Tangs. I have Furcifers, Cyp Micro's, paracyps and Gobies in my 210. Mods, can you please do something about the snivelling on here lately, it's becoming annoying.


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

i'll just reiterate



> I wouldn't mix fish of the same genus, which means only about half your list would work together
> 
> pseudotropheus would be the exception


i can't really grasp the size of the tank to think how many species to include, but at least one from each genus on your list would work fine, avoid similar looking fish. I'm not big on mixing haps with mbuna, but if you go towards the less aggressive mbuna, and haps that don't get so big they will eat the mbuna you might be fine, try a protomelas or copadichromis hap

with no to limited experience with african ciclids i would not suggest tropheus, they are not the easiest fish to keep


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## Darkside (Feb 6, 2008)

noddy said:


> snivelling {/quote]
> 
> Awesome. lol


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## degrave4256 (Apr 10, 2010)

Well got the 210 partially together and running. More of a wet run to check my plumbing water flow etc. So far so good. No leaks. I had a heck of a time finding bulkheads for this thing though. 3/4 in inlets and 1 inch return is what it called for. Found the 3/4 but nobody had a 1in bulkheacd. Some make shift plumbing and hand cut gaskets and *** got a 1 1/4inch return now. The overflows are working perfect. I think If I would have gone with the 1 inch return the pumps would have been to strong for the return.

I've covered the bottom with eggcrate and put in several of the caves in but no substrate yet. After 3 days the water is still pretty cloudy. I'm thinking I may have to pull out some of the caves because some of them may be hardened clay instead of rock. Hate to remove them cause they look great but Not sure what else could be making the water cloudy. Any Ideas on what else it could be or if there is some way of sealing those rocks?

Got a friend trying to carve a background out of foam for me. Hmmm. Probably should have done that before filling the tank with water. lol

I'm planning on trying to install an under water jet system. Just havent found the right pump for the job yet. Not sure how much flow is too much.

Still up in the air as to what to stock the tank with but think I'll have enough hiding places on the bottom and in the foam background and still have plenty open water area to house several different cichlids. Hopefully that mixed with several fish will spread the agression.

Has anyone used Tri-based Carbon pellets? I hear they really help maintain the Nitrite levels.


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## mel_cp6 (Feb 3, 2009)

+1 on a Tanganyika set up. however, i dont think you can achieve the SW look with 
tangs though just because their colors are not as vibrant as the malawis.

As for behaviour pattern, i prefer tangs over malawis any day.
plus their shape varies more than malawis that seems all same body shape 
just different coloring and pattern.

you could probably achieve the SW look with lace rocks, pfs with some crushed corals 
and mbunas. ie; yellow labs, red zebras, demasonis and so on.

post pic of your progress.


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