# Water change when nitrates are 0???



## Anall44 (Feb 25, 2008)

Hey everybody,

I've got a 125 g. with about 22 cichlids in it ranging from 2-3".

I have been real busy and was getting ready to do a water change for the first time in about 4 months  but I checked my water first and everything was zero  , even the nitrates!!!

My question is, should i still do a water change?? If so, what other things factor into water changes besides amonnia, nitrite and nitrate levels.

Thanks in Advance. Austin


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## BRANT13 (Feb 18, 2009)

it could hurt to vaccum the substrate wich i do every other week...help keep the nastyness down :thumb:


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## GaFishMan1181 (Dec 17, 2008)

If you havent changed the water in 4 monthes and your nitrates are zero than something is wrong. Everything was zero?? ammonia and nitrites?? Something isnt making sense. With your tank i would expect to see 80-120ppm nitrates or a huge spike somewhere else in the ammonia and nitrities.

What type of water test are you using??


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## 007Rick (Jul 29, 2007)

Gafishman is right!


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## BRANT13 (Feb 18, 2009)

could also be an old kit?....


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Did you shake the bottles and tubes per the instructions? If you don't, you'll get a 0 nitrate reading. 
If so, then the kit is bad. Your nitrates aren't 0.



> My question is, should i still do a water change?? If so, what other things factor into water changes besides amonnia, nitrite and nitrate levels.


Yes, there are other reasons to do water changes, it's just that nitrates are the one thing that we can 
measure.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

Now, I agree with everything that has been said so far... however, I know that when I had plants in one of my tanks, I consistently was getting a reading of 0 ppm nitrate. I still did weekly water changes to remove other organics and such, but still, the entire time I had plants... 0 ppm nitrate... and that's in a 29 gallon tank with 25 + brichardi (albeit most were fry and therefore were not producing much waste).

So... all I'm saying is, if the OP's tank is planted... perhaps 0ppm nitrate is possible? I doubt it though.

And regardless, change your water. 4 months is way too long no matter what.


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## GaFishMan1181 (Dec 17, 2008)

either his test kit is bad or he didnt shake the bottles enough for the nitrate test. We need to hear back from the OP on what test kit he uses. Also see if we can get a second testing of the water and/or have him take a water sample to a LFS and let them test.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> the entire time I had plants... 0 ppm nitrate...


What plants did you use? I'd be interested in keeping some in my sump if I could make that happen.


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## GaFishMan1181 (Dec 17, 2008)

alot of people keep plants in their sump. I have also heard that those little bamboo plants you can buy from the store work well.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> What plants did you use? I'd be interested in keeping some in my sump if I could make that happen.


I had Vals and 2 moss balls. And, well... a lot of hair algae. :?

It looked like this, before the hair algae got nasty...


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

I obviously can't guarantee the effectiveness, but I think that moss balls would be a great addition to any sump, considering you don't have to plant them. And in my experience, their lighting requirements are fairly flexible. You could probably just rig up one of those curly (energy efficient) bulbs... however, if I understand plants correctly, the more light you give them, the more nutrient (nitrate) uptake occurs.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

I have already come across this and no _nothing_ was wrong with my tank. Is it open top?

I do constant water changes which may play the factor but even so when I let it go for say 2+ weeks I still have no readings. Depending on the kit the readings could just be to small for it to measure.

I find having a open top helps out with nitrates and such significantly but it also allows for other fall out to enter the tank still bringing the need for a good routine.

I think you have a good system and the kit was not able to measure the very small amount present.

Also moss balls would be good in the sump but they would collect to much detritus which is not a good thing for moss balls. Make sure they are after a good mechanical pad.

-------------
EDIT:was it really 4 months or did you mean 4 weeks.

I skimmed and thought it said 4 weeks :lol:


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> Also moss balls would be good in the sump but they would collect to much detritus which is not a good thing for moss balls. Make sure they are after a good mechanical pad.


Very good point! In my tank, I had to pick them up and shake them off about every 3 day s it seemed to keep them clear of debris. It's like they are a magnet for poop and sand.

Plus I was thinking about it... For the best Nitrate uptake you actually want a fast growing plant like vals, becuase they will absorb more then slow growers like mossballs... i don't think vals will do well unless they are planted though, so if you are floating them in a sump, you'll probably be replacing them every month or so.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Theirs lots of options for the sump.

I would put in a nice bright light 24/7 and add some Pothos clippings. They grow fats and devour lots and lots of nutrients!


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I tried hornwort once, but too messy. I had crinium (onion plants) for a while, and they did great until I 
moved them to the main tank. Did great as far as growing. Not sure how much they helped with 
nitrates. I should have left them in the sump maybe.


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## pugwash (Sep 11, 2006)

No one seems to have mentioned the build up of hormones in the water; could affect fish growth...
I'd be suprised if there were enough vals in the OP's tank to reduce nitrates to 0 - what are your tap water readings?


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## sleepy09 (Jan 15, 2009)

I have a 125 gallon tank that has 29 fish in it and my numbers stay close to 0. I don't even have any plants in it. My nitrates stay so close to 0 that I have retested for it to see if I did something wrong. I do have to say tho I never go over 2 weeks without doing a water change. There are other reasons like others have said that dictate weather or not you need to do water changes. You can have a build up of potassium and other organics that can be harmful to your fish.


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## Morpheus (Nov 12, 2008)

That's surprising sleepy. I have a 75 with 6 fish (granted one is an oscar) and I change 30% every three days and still have readings around 10ppm after a water change.


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## Anall44 (Feb 25, 2008)

hey everybody,

I have an API test kit. I have owned it for about 10 months so I don't it could have expired in that amount of time.

I retested today, making sure I shook each container for EXACTLY the indicated time. Ammonia=0 , Nitrites=0, and the Nitrates read about 5-10 ppm. Not exactly zero like I had said but still low for having not done a water change in a while, atleast thats what I have heard.

I am going to take you all's advice and take some water to the LFS and get a secondary test.

I am definately not against water changes but I have just been really busy, And yes I still plan on doing one.

Thanks for all the advice, Its greatly aappreciated.

P.s. I have no live plants, and no glass top on the tank. Here's a pic for refence purposes.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Its the open top. Some people honestly just cant believe how much it helps!

Nice tank! Cool skull :lol: . I cant justify using ornaments that arent natural but I do enjoy looking at other tanks that have them


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## earth intruder (Oct 14, 2008)

I often get 0 nitrates in my heavily planted tanks.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Its the open top. Some people honestly just cant believe how much it helps!


Why would an open top reduce nitrates?


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## kimismenos (Jun 25, 2002)

JWerner2 said:


> Its the open top. Some people honestly just cant believe how much it helps!
> 
> Nice tank! Cool skull :lol: . I cant justify using ornaments that arent natural but I do enjoy looking at other tanks that have them


i bet there's a skull or two in lake malawi!


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## il2fd (Jan 17, 2009)

prov356 said:


> What plants did you use? I'd be interested in keeping some in my sump if I could make that happen.


Could look at using duckweed in the sump. Duckweed is good for removal of phosphates and nitrogen, particularly ammonia.

Najas, frogbit & java moss all do well as free floaters, so you could also add them, all are great for getting keeping nitrates in check.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

prov356 said:


> > Its the open top. Some people honestly just cant believe how much it helps!
> 
> 
> Why would an open top reduce nitrates?


It helps release more efficiently.

Thats why reef keepers like to keep a open top.

Pair that up with a air stone and it really does work great. I just dont dig bubbles myself.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> It helps release more efficiently.
> 
> Thats why reef keepers like to keep a open top.


I think I know what you're referring to. Reef keepers use either deep sand beds or some other means 
to implement de-nitrification, which is the conversion of nitrate to a nitrogen gas. This nitrogen gas is 
released at the surface. Without de-nitrification, there is no gas to release so this doesn't occur. 
De-nitrification is uncommon in freshwater systems, at least by design. If it happens, then that's what 
reduces nitrates, not the open top. Simply opening up the aquarium alone without de-nitrification 
taking place somewhere within it won't reduce nitrates.

Just ocurred to me that maybe some of these systems with unusual and unexpected low levels of 
nitrate may have some serious anaerobic pockets within the substrate somewhere where 
de-nitrification is taking place. Particularly the one where no water changes have been done, so no 
substrate vacuuming either. If so, I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing. Just a thought.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> Just ocurred to me that maybe some of these systems with unusual and unexpected low levels of
> nitrate may have some serious anaerobic pockets within the substrate somewhere where
> de-nitrification is taking place. Particularly the one where no water changes have been done, so no
> substrate vacuuming either. If so, I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing. Just a thought.


I guess it would be a good thing until that pocket get's exposed to the water column right? Because the anaerobic bacteria itself is harmful to fish... right?


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Good post but thats not it at all. :thumb:

I have been dong both for a long time and I will tell you that it helps to release nitrates form the tank. It has nothing to do with DSB's or anything that technical. Its just like using a air stone. Anything trapped in the bubble bursts at the top. Well with a open top it does not have a chance of getting back into the system. Usually just the agitation from filters and such are enough and a air stone is just a dded extra but it really does work.

I know lots of people do agree with me but lots dont understand and its not like its that technical at all.

I have been doing it for quite sometime, I was told to give it a shot a while ago when I had troubles with big fish and it worked so......


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

edouthirt said:


> > Just ocurred to me that maybe some of these systems with unusual and unexpected low levels of
> > nitrate may have some serious anaerobic pockets within the substrate somewhere where
> > de-nitrification is taking place. Particularly the one where no water changes have been done, so no
> > substrate vacuuming either. If so, I'm not sure if that's a good or bad thing. Just a thought.
> ...


Well you still wouldnt want it in the tank. Think about the nature of Cichlids and how they like to dig. They could hit a pocket that has been sitting for quite sometime. Its not the anerobic bacteria it is the gas not?

I know for one I keep my sand turned up. I do it with every water change weekly both to stop anything turning septic and to stop the growth of alga on my sand.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

Well... soon, I will be doing an experiment on this because I want to add a cover closer to the light in my canopy so I can remove the top to my tank because I'm actually having temp issues (stays a little to warm for my comfort). So I will check to see if I notice a difference in nitrate levels as well.

I have never heard of this *JWerner2*, but it certainly would be an added bonus if it works for me as well.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> Think about the nature of Cichlids and how they like to dig. They could hit a pocket that has been sitting for quite sometime.


yeah, I had thought about that, considering my mbuna do a good enough job that I rarely even worry about churning the sand bed myself... I still do it occassionally, but I think it's completely useless considering how much they rearrage the sand in my tank.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

You can google it or just ask a few more people for opinions. It helps with better gas exchange.

I mean Nitrates are going to be there no matter what trying to escape the water column so all it takes is a bit of common thought. If it has a closed top anything that works its way out naturally ( agitation and what not ) can collect in any evaporated water droplets and fall back into the tank or even just be recirculated back in.

Its nothing really that special, if you have been living with a glass top and no problems this entire time you might not have a reason for it but it is a bit of a added extra for those seeking very low or no nitrates.

Im not saying it is the total reasoning for the OP's experience but I feel it does have a very big role. Again, I did misread and thought it said 4 weeks. I dont know, it may have helped out enough that his test kit just couldnt pick up that low of a reading. Dont mean it was totally nitrate lack.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> I guess it would be a good thing until that pocket get's exposed to the water column right? Because the anaerobic bacteria itself is harmful to fish... right?


It'd be a potentially dangerous balance to strike. In the process of converting nitrate to the nitrogen 
gas, it first converts to nitrite. If that gets released into the tank water because of the eventual 
disruption of this pocket, it could be bad. Happened to a poster here a while back. After cleaning 
under rocks, nitrites went high and killed off the tank.



> I have been dong both for a long time and I will tell you that it helps to release nitrates form the tank. It has nothing to do with DSB's or anything that technical. Its just like using a air stone. Anything trapped in the bubble bursts at the top. Well with a open top it does not have a chance of getting back into the system. Usually just the agitation from filters and such are enough and a air stone is just a dded extra but it really does work.
> 
> I know lots of people do agree with me but lots dont understand and its not like its that technical at all.
> 
> I have been doing it for quite sometime, I was told to give it a shot a while ago when I had troubles with big fish and it worked so......


Links or references to support the theory please.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Just google it. Its very common! Most of the info will come from other forums more so than tech articles and rather than post a link for people to sift out the info I would rather you just look it up via google 

It really isnt rocket science or even just theory.

It is a fact that it helps gas exchange!


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

ok, I just tried several google searches and found nothing about nitrate reduction in freshwater aquariums due to open tops. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. If you have a link, please post it.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Just google it. Its very common! Most of the info will come from other forums more so than tech articles and rather than post a link for people to sift out the info I would rather you just look it up via google Smile
> 
> It really isnt rocket science or even just theory.
> 
> It is a fact that it helps gas exchange!


I did google it, trust me. There is nothing out there to support the idea that you can gas off nitrate 
without some conversion to a gas first (denitrification). Nothing, by your own admission, other than 
posts in user forums, no science. Not intending to debate it with you, just forewarn anyone reading 
this that may be tempted to go home and remove the tank cover thinking it will reduce nitrates. I should 
add that I didn't even find posts in user forums, but don't doubt that they are out there.

Good gas exchange in a system is important for a lot of reasons and most setups should take that into 
consideration when setting up. It benefits a system in a lot of ways, like the taking in of oxygen and 
the release of carbon dioxide.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

> It's perfectly fine to run without a hood. My 50 breeder is setup the same way. The open top provides better gas exchange, so it has benefits.


http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182141goto=newpost

This guy mentions it. It was the first link during my Google search.

Now as I said, its popular with reef keepers but by far limited. This guy talks about a reef tank but it holds the same general idea.....



> It seems to me that the marine aquarist is better off not using covers. First of all, the light that is being paid for is maximized into the aquarium, *and very importantly there isnâ€™t any restriction to air reaching the seawater surface, thus as said maximizing gas exchange.* Excessive heat can be more easily controlled. If there are any fish â€˜jumpersâ€™, then it is a simple matter to make a light wooden framework to fit the top area of the aquarium and stretch a small-hole mesh (not metal) across it. It would be just as easy to remove as glass covers. Finally, there arenâ€™t any glass covers to clean or break


http://www.aquaristsonline.com/blog/general/should-you-use-glass-covers-on-an-aquarium/

Now all this mumbo jumbo is a reason why I would rather someone just research it rather than me try to copy and paste quotes and links


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

prov356 said:


> > Just google it. Its very common! Most of the info will come from other forums more so than tech articles and rather than post a link for people to sift out the info I would rather you just look it up via google Smile
> >
> > It really isnt rocket science or even just theory.
> >
> ...


 :lol: Ok what ever :lol:


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## smellsfishy1 (May 29, 2008)

What does any of that have to do with removing nitrates?
It is giving examples of how it can be beneficial but none in regards to nitrates.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> Quote:
> It's perfectly fine to run without a hood. My 50 breeder is setup the same way. The open top provides better gas exchange, so it has benefits.
> 
> http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/sh ... to=newpost
> ...


I never doubted that open tops lead to better gas exchange, but even in everything you just posted here, nothing is mentioned about releasing Nitrate through this process.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> Ok what ever


No need to get like that, we're all here sharing ideas. It isn't a competition.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

edouthirt said:


> > Quote:
> > It's perfectly fine to run without a hood. My 50 breeder is setup the same way. The open top provides better gas exchange, so it has benefits.
> >
> > http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/sh ... to=newpost
> ...


I understand. What is Nitrate? If agitation helps it escape than how does having a open top not aid in its release be it gas form or not?

Some people just dont get it and wont.


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## GaFishMan1181 (Dec 17, 2008)

maybe its not that the open tops are reducing nitrates; its that the closed tops are causing more nitrates


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

edouthirt said:


> > Ok what ever
> 
> 
> No need to get like that, we're all here sharing ideas. It isn't a competition.


Dude, I was laughing it off as to not compete. This is not even my thread.. I was not trying to be rude. as I said some people just dont believe it no matter what 

I think people need to really really read my posts and take into consideration that I am not saying this is some god like way to void your tank of Nitrates. It is only a way, a small way to aid in its release from the aquarium.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> What is Nitrate? If agitation helps it escape than how does having a open top not aid in its release be it gas form or not?


I've also never heard that agitation helps nitrate escape. The greatest benefit (in my uinderstanding) to surface agitation in freshwater aquariums is the oxygen that is added to the water.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> Dude, I was laughing it off as to not compete. This is not even my thread.. I was not trying to be rude. as I said some people just dont believe it no matter what


Ok, no problem... emotion attached to language can get lost in the translation of text. I just wanted to make sure we weren't upsetting you and likewise. It's all good! :thumb:


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

:lol:

This has become a dead horse. I will lend everyone a stick so we can beat it together peacefully


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## smellsfishy1 (May 29, 2008)

I think there is a misunderstanding.
*JWerner2*, how familiar are you with the properties and behavior of nitrate in the aquarium?
I don't mean to sound aggressive at all, I just want to point out that nitrate doesn't dissipate out of water.

There are other methods to converting nitrate to a different form that can dissipate but as is, in normal aquarium condition, it will not.
This is why removing the lids doesn't do anything to nitrates.
It helps with oxygen, ammonia and co2 to name a few but not nitrate.

If you want you could try it and report your before and after nitrate readings.
I hope you don't feel under attack by this post, I just like to help when I can and so do the rest of the members here.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> What is nitrate?


It's an organic compound, not a gas, so doesn't gas off at the surface.

*Anall44*,

Back to topic. I'm really wondering what will happen when that gravel is vacuumed for the first time. I'd 
be interested in seeing what gets pulled out of it and what it does to nitrite or nitrate levels going 
forward. It'd be interesting if you could post results.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> If you want you could try it and report your before and after nitrate readings.


I will be doing this, as I need to reomove the top to my tank this weekend (for temp issues) anyway.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

smellsfishy1 said:


> I think there is a misunderstanding.
> *JWerner2*, how familiar are you with the properties and behavior of nitrate in the aquarium?
> I don't mean to sound aggressive at all, I just want to point out that nitrate doesn't dissipate out of water.
> 
> ...


Well as I said. I have gave it a shot with my Jags a while back and I did notice a difference in readings.

Im not offended, as I said I have been doing it for a while and feel it works and I know others that agree and as always there will be those that disagree.

The agitation _as I was always told _aids in the release of nitrates not by it dissipating out of the water but getting trapped in bubbles then bursting at the top. But it is minimal.


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

Just to add, my supervisor here at the University of South Florida St. Petersburg is Dr. Chris D'Elia... here is his website, http://www.stpt.usf.edu/cdelia/

I just had a conversation with him about this, and he confirmed that the only way that nitrate can be removed from a water column (besides water changes of course) is through the process of denitrification (by aneorobic bacteria and such) or by nutrient uptake in plants, algae, etc. He reaffirmed what Tim already said, that since it is an organic compund and NEVER in the form of a gas, it can not be released from the water column through surface gas exchange.

Aneorbic bacteria can break down nitrate in environments where oxygen itself is low or non-existent because it utilzes the oxygen atoms in the NO3 molecule. As an aside the same thing happens with sulfate and many other oxygen rich molecules present in the water column. The point being that the bacteria will break down the molecule leaving a Nitrogen atom to itself which will very quickly bind to another nitrogen atom forming N2, which is a gas, and then N2 will be released at the surface through gas exchange.

The point being that denitrification will only happen where oxygen is not present on it's own, so ironically, leaving your tank open top (allowing for better gas exchange) most likely allows more oxygen to enter the water and therefore further limits the ability for denitrification to happen.

Dr. D'elia's bottom line explanation... unless you have plants, a lot of algae, or an environment little to no oxygen where aneorbic bacteria can thrive, NO3 is not going to leave the water column except through water changes.

That being said, I would have to imagine that your reduction in nitrate reading has to be attributed to something besides leaving your aquarium open top... perhaps a reduction in feedings, more frequent water changes, maybe a change in the chemistry of the water you add to the aquarium, who knows?

As they often say in science... correlation does not always imply causation... in this case a reduction in nitrate after removing the top does not imply that the removal of the top is what caused the reduction. According to science, it must be attributed to another variable.

Dr. D'elia also told me to look up what a Jaubert/Plenum Filter is. As this is one way reef keepers ensure the survival of aneorbic bacteria which in turn also maintains low nitrate levels.


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## earth intruder (Oct 14, 2008)

Edouthirt - great post, way to go to the experts! :wink:


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## GaFishMan1181 (Dec 17, 2008)

this might be a hella stupid question but has anyone ever planted a small plant in a HOB filter??


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Just to add, my supervisor here at the University of South Florida St. Petersburg is Dr. Chris D'Elia... here is his website, http://www.stpt.usf.edu/cdelia/


Great source of info you have there, my friend. :thumb:


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> way to go to the experts!





> Great source of info you have there, my friend.


Yeah, I'm pretty lucky to have him across the hall from my office!!



> this might be a hella stupid question but has anyone ever planted a small plant in a HOB filter??


I have seen people put those lucky bamboo plants in their HOB's, and they supposedly are great at absorbing nitrate.


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## GaFishMan1181 (Dec 17, 2008)

sweet i have got to try it. Do you know the bamboo light requirements (low, medium, high)


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## edouthirt (Jan 22, 2008)

> sweet i have got to try it. Do you know the bamboo light requirements (low, medium, high)


Most sources say (i just googled it) bright filtered sunlight. But I know my other supervisor (not Dr. D, yes, I have two bosses) has had a lucky bamboo in her office for a long time... and it just has the regular floursecent strips in our offices to work with.

I think they are pretty hardy.


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## brycerb (Dec 23, 2007)

I have a 45 gallon tank full of plants(mostly watersprite) 40 neons, some ghost shrimp and some small snails. I have not run a filter on this tank since I started it. As long as I keep more plants than fish it seems to be holding the balance. I'm sure this tank isn't even cycled. The plants are probably eating the ammonia before it could even be converted to nitrite, even if I had a filter.


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## mel_cp6 (Feb 3, 2009)

whats going to happen when this guy finally clean and vacuum the substrate?
wouldnt that release all the gas trap in there and also caused some ammonia
spike when he disturb all that **** under there?
does he have crush coral?

sorry, im still fairly new to fishkeeping so dont mind me if my questions 
doesnt make sense.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> wouldnt that release all the gas trap in there and also caused some ammonia
> spike when he disturb all that #%$& under there?


If it is loaded with anaerobic pockets, then nitrite could be released. I'd probably proceed slowly and 
clean a small area first.


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## brycerb (Dec 23, 2007)

Why do you need to stir everything up anyway? No one goes to lake malawi and puts a python in it. Salt water people do it. I have been doing an experiment in one of my tanks. I have been leaving the sand alone. I have enough water movement to keep poop off the top. You can see a line in the sand where the algea stops growing. It is about an inch down, so I am guessing their is no oxygen below that point. I will see how it goes, I am hoping that it might reduce nitrates in the future.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Why do you need to stir everything up anyway? No one goes to lake malawi and puts a python in it.


That's a good question, but poor reasoning. A small enclosed aquarium is different from a large 
lake in many ways. There are deep anearobic pockets in the rift lakes that do eventually get 
stirred by weather and do result in massive losses of fish. A couple of Ad Konings books 
document this. What you're attempting may be theoretically possible, but very difficult to 
control in an aquarium and very unnecessary. There are other very easy and much safer ways to 
keep nitrates under control Also, reef tanks strive for near 0 levels of nitrates because of very 
different requirements of very different inhabitants. What's good for and works in a reef tank 
doesn't necessarily translate to fresh water and vice versa.


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