# Overloaded my biological filtration.



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Ammonia is at 8ppm and I've done 2 30% water changes in the last 2 days. Added ammo lock because it claims to be "scientifically proven to protect fishes cells from ammonia" I had a fish die and dissapear which does not help. All of my fish seem to be healthy so far, still no heavy breathing or behavior changes. I still have the original carbon filters in from when I set up the tank a few weeks ago. Do I replace these to help with the toxins or do I leave them in for bacteria purposes? The ammonia spiked 2 days ago and has yet to. Go down. Do I continue doing water changes or let natural processes take care of it?


----------



## bearwithfish (Dec 20, 2010)

were it me (and its not) i would add a small bag of zeolite to the filter, and continue partial Water changes untill things get back under control.. also find that missing fish as this may be the source of your issue....


----------



## duds (Apr 16, 2010)

I'm assuming this is a new tank? If you haven't yet, it may be good to read up on the nitrogen cycle. I have heard that having ammonia too high can inhibit or completely stop the cycle. Ammonia around 2ppm is usually what people aim for when doing a fishless cycle, so at 8ppm I doubt the nitrifying bacteria can form. To get it down you'll need to change out a lot of that water.
I have no experience with 'ammo lock.' I wonder if that will also interfere with the cycle.



bearwithfish said:


> also find that missing fish as this may be the source of your issue


Agreed.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

How long has the tank been set up?

What size is the tank?

What filters? Maintenance history? (Don't remove media or touch the filters at this point)

What fish, and how many, and what size? When were they added?

Ammolock works and does not inhibit cycling. It simply binds toxic ammonia into a non-toxic form that is still available to the bacteria. Water changes are your friend. Do as many as you have to in order to get ammonia down to <1ppm regardless of current fish behavior. Also test for nitrite.

Answers to above questions will allow for more guidance.


----------



## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

I sense a huge nitrIte spike in the near future


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Lol okay its a 55 gallon that's been set up for a month. Fish added 3 weeks ago. 10 small cichlids between 1 and 2 inches. Whisper ex...can't remember at the moment filter. For up to 70 gallons. Weekly water changes with stress coat to remove chlorine... yes I should have cycled the water before adding fish but that wasn't the case. Lol I'm sure you guys have heard it all before.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Major water changes, very light feeding, and a detox product like Ammolock or Prime would be the resolution, but it won't come quickly. Even in an uncycled tank, the ammonia should have dropped to 0 by now, and you should have been dealing with nitrites.

Have you tested nitrites?

Have you done any testing of ammonia before now? If so, what were the levels?

Did ammonia every drop to 0 after a climb, or has it been climbing since day 1 of adding fish?

Just trying to detemine if this is a setback, or if things haven't gotten started. Regardless, do the water changes and get the ammonia level way down.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

About a week ago when I bought the test kit the ammonia level was at .25 and then jumped up to 8.0. I hadn't tested it before that but I assume it was at zero when I set up the tank. I have removed all the rock and vacuumed the sand trying to find the body of the dissapeared zebra but it was nowhere to be found. I'll do another large water change tonight and then test the water and post it up here. I was suprised that after two 30% water changes the ammonia had not gone down at all. Still think to leave the carbon filters in? I'll add more ammo lock tonight as well. It's been a few days since I have added any.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> About a week ago when I bought the test kit the ammonia level was at .25 and then jumped up to 8.0. I hadn't tested it before that but I assume it was at zero when I set up the tank. I have removed all the rock and vacuumed the sand trying to find the body of the dissapeared zebra but it was nowhere to be found. I'll do another large water change tonight and then test the water and post it up here. I was suprised that after two 30% water changes the ammonia had not gone down at all. Still think to leave the carbon filters in? I'll add more ammo lock tonight as well. It's been a few days since I have added any.


I would leave filter, rocks, etc alone as you only risk disrupting the biofiltration even more. In a properly cycled tank, a dead fish doesn't typically cause an ammonia spike, even a minor one. Something has seriously disrupted your bacteria colony, I believe, and it's as if you're starting the cycling process all over again. 3 weeks after fish added, your ammonia should have peaked and gone back down to 0.

The reason it appears as though the levels don't go down after a water change is the imprecision of the hobby test kits. Know that if you change out water, you are truly dilluting the toxins regardless of the test results.

If it were my tank, the fish would not be fed for the next couple of days while I did more major water changes of 30-40%. Keep adding the Ammolock daily after the water change. I'd also start testing nitrite. Ammonia and ntirite tests over the next few days will tell which direction things are going and how far the cycle is progressing.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Thank you! Ill post an update in a few hours on ammonia and nitrite levels. You are very helpful!


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Ok, keep us posted. You're not the first to be where you are. Many of us start out this way. You'll pull out of it. :thumb:


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I thought I posted a reply but it didn't show up so I apologize if this is a duplicate. I'm using my phone. Ammonia is at 4.0ppm and nitrite is still at 0. I haven't tested it since I first added the fish though sso there may have been a nitrite spike that I missed.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Ok, if you can, do another water change first thing tomorrow. Keep testing. It's a series of tests over a few days that will tell. The effects of the water changes will be helpful as well.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Ok. I did about a 40% water change tonight. You think I should do another tomorrow? I will test it in the AM and post results on here.


----------



## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

*You think I should do another tomorrow?*

I would let ammonia levels be my guide.
No measurable ammonia is the goal, but that might take a bit of time.
Water changes to keep the level as low as possible.
Good luck.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> You think I should do another tomorrow?


As John said, depends on ammonia level. I'd assume you'll need to based on the levels you've been getting. But, if you find it's down to 1ppm lower, then you can ease off on them. Just keep testing ammonia and nitrite.


----------



## BillD (May 17, 2005)

I would be a little suspicious of an ammonia reading of 8. Still, I would have changed out pretty much all the water (90%+) if I saw that number. that is not a heavy bioload for that tank, even doing a fish in cycle.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

After the water change last night the ammonia was still at 4.0 this morning and nitrite still at 0...I'm going to do another significant one tonight and see if it goes down.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> After the water change last night the ammonia was still at 4.0 this morning and nitrite still at 0...I'm going to do another significant one tonight and see if it goes down.


I would too. Sounds like you're back to the beginning with the cycling, unfortunately. Tell the fish to hang in there.


----------



## dielikemoviestars (Oct 23, 2007)

While you're at it, try to find some bacteria culture to seed your filter with... The big chain stores should have a bottle of it near the dechlorinator. Shouldn't run more than 5-10 bucks.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

What about "Stress Zyme"...?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

You need to be really careful when spending money on these products. Many have had mixed results. Dr. Tim's one and only is one that has shown to be effective. I'd suggest that one. If you have questions about it, he has his own forum section you can post to. He seems to be a straight up guy when it comes to standing behind his product.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I inherited a full bottle, it's been laying around under my tank so I wondered if it may be helpful.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

From their site, it sounds like heterotrophic bacteria, not what you need. Those guys break down organics into ammonia. Might just add to your problems.

How are the water changes going, any affect on ammonia?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

No luck!!!!! Grrrr!

Ammonia still very high, nitrites still at 0. Advice?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Change 75% of the water. Stop feeding for now. Test ammonia before and after and post back.

If I understand correctly from the posts, you've had this tank set up for over a month, ammonia has spiked to very high levels, nitrite has never spiked, and water changes have had minimal effect on the ammonia level? Is all that correct?

I also need to know exactly which Whisper filter, and what type of media. Are there any other filters on the tank, or power heads, etc? Also, I'm assuming you're not changing filter media or cleaning the filter or changing anything on the system right now. Let me know if that's not the case.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Its a whisper EX70. Standard filter media, just the carbon filters and the weird bacteria catching spike thing. I hadn't changed or cleaned any of the filter media until yesterday. They were really nasty and I figured since that dead fish was never found it may not be helping to have the super old dirty ones in, and there should be lots of bacteria in the tank by now... I'm at a loss! What about ammo chips? All the fish are still healthy btw. And yes all that was correct. No power heads or anything else.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> I hadn't changed or cleaned any of the filter media until yesterday.


What exactly did you clean/change in the filter?

I'm wondering now if you're not underfiltered and overfeeding. Typically, you shouldn't have to do much to clean filters in the early going and really shouldn't touch them for the first 60 days. If the mechanical filter bags need it, they could get a light rinse in some dechlorinated water, but that'd be it. The foam in frames should be left alone.

Ammo chips aren't the answer. Your biofiltration is being overwhelmed and can't keep up with the bioload. That could be a combination of things really. Hard to say without more info, but what I'd suggest going forward is very light feedings along (once per day and only enough so each fish gets a few bites of food) along with no changes to the system. No filter cleanings, etc. And do enough aggressive water changes at this point to get the ammonia down to 1ppm. Stop feeding entirely until it's down below that level.

You just have to be real disciplined about the light feedings and leaving the filter alone until you get through cycling. I think that's your answer. The ammonia levels will tell you how you're doing with that.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Did a 75-80% water change today and hardly any effect on ammonia... do another tonight? Had my chinese algae eater die last night =(


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> Did a 75-80% water change today and hardly any effect on ammonia... do another tonight? Had my chinese algae eater die last night =(


It has to have an effect, just maybe not one that shows up on the test kit. What is it reading now? And what type of test kit are you using?


----------



## jrf (Nov 10, 2009)

I've only browsed the thread. So, forgive me if I missed something. But, something sounds off. You should see a significant reduction in the ammonia levels after a big water change like that. What are you using to test the ammonia and how long have you had the test? Also, have you tested your tap water?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I'm wondering the same things. If you do an 80% water change, then you've reduced the ammonia concentration by 80% (assuming there's no ammonia in the tap water) regardless of what the test kit says. Check the kit and test the tap water.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I'm just using the API ammonia test kit...where you put 8 drops of the 2 different bottles and wait 5 minutes. I even tested my tap water because this is getting so ridiculous.
Did the water change this morning, ammonia now reads right about 4.0...


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

So, no ammonia in the tap?

How's the feeding going? Something is really cranking out the ammonia, and 10 small fish shouldn't be doing this. This tank is almost out of control and I'd be tempted to move the fish out while I got it handled.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

let me know if I'm doing something wrong.... I have tahitian moon sand, I vaccuum all of the fish waste off the top of the sand and all the waste that sits on the rocks, and then continue to vaccuum until 80% of the water is gone... rinse the bucket, match tap water temp with tank temp, dechlorinate each bucket with stress coat and refill... what could I be doing wrong? This is making no sense.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

No ammonia in the tap and we do a light feeding every 2 to 3 days so that each fish gets a couple pellets....


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Just did another 50% change and the ammonia is down to about 2.0. Yay! Ill do another tomorrow to try to bring it down below 1.0


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> Just did another 50% change and the ammonia is down to about 2.0. Yay! Ill do another tomorrow to try to bring it down below 1.0


That's it, you have to keep going with that to get it under control so we can see what it's doing. Keep the light feedings going. Once you get ammonia under 1ppm, then leave everything alone for 24 hours and test ammonia again. This will tell us if we're dealing with normal ammonia output from the fish.

Btw, beside the chinese algae eater, what else is in the tank, and what sizes?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Okay, lol here we go!

2" kenyi
2" acei
1.5" yellow lab
1.5" yellow lab
2" venustus
2.5" cyrtocara moori
2" red zebra
2" jewel
1.5" auratus

I've been told I'm likely to get some problem fish. But right now everyone loves eachother =)


----------



## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

The auratus, kenyi & venustus are potentially the biggest problems when they mature. Assuming the auratus & kenyi are males..


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

That's what I've heard


----------



## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

Yeah.. The venustus is a predaratory herbivore.. think "T-Rex" :lol:


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Herbivore? How does that work? He's a mean plant eater?lol


----------



## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

Uhmmm.. sorry - Carnivore.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Lol okay makes more sense! If he starts to pick on the others I'll trade him in. Right now everyones fins are in tip top shape and despite the ammonia problems everyone looks really healthy and happy!


----------



## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

good deal... are you using Prime?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Another big water change and the ammonia is between .5 and 1.0.

Nitrites at 0.
PH at 6.4
Nitrate at slightly above 0. Way under 5.0. Almost none..


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I don't know what Prime is...?


----------



## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

Product made by Seachem that binds & detoxifies ammonia & nitrite while leaving the cycle unaffected..

Your PH is way too low for African's by the way.. I guess it has been that low the entire time?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

No it hasn't. I add that API african cichlid stuff that raises it, since I've been doing so many water changes I've been trying to minimize how much product I add.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Now that it's under control, you can add the buffers again. Don't do a water change and feed lightly today just once. I'd like to see what the ammonia level reads tomorrow. Test nitrite also, but don't worry about nitrates right now. Don't make any other changes for now, especially with the filter.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I was also wondering... I have an established 10 gallon betta tank, is there any way I can use that tank to help the 55? Ill post results tomorrow.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> I was also wondering... I have an established 10 gallon betta tank, is there any way I can use that tank to help the 55? Ill post results tomorrow.


Depends on the filter. You could possibly take some filter media from it, and add it to your tank, but you just have to be careful with that. What do you have in the way of filtration in the betta tank?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Just the filter that came with the 10 gallon kit, it has one small carbon filter cartridge and that's it.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Best you could do then is grab some gravel, or decor. What's there?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Just fake plants, gravel, and a rock


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

You could take any of that and use it. Put a plant and the rock maybe near the intake of your filter, it was a whisper filter I believe. Can't hurt and may help. You could actually take a small amout of gravel and drop it into the filter by the white filter bag. Place the gravel on the side that the water flows through first. Not a lot, maybe a couple of dozen pieces. Be sure to keep it away from the filter impeller. If they're still made the same, the water is pulled up by the impeller where it overflows into a chamber that holds the filter bags/pads. That chamber where the water first flows in by the filter bags is where you want to put the gravel. Just drop it it, don't remove the filter bags to rearrange things in there.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Ok


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Refresh me on some detail.

Tank's been set up for a few weeks.

Problem started with a small ammonia spike afer fish were added, but then ammonia went very high.

The tank has never seen a nitrite spike.

Is all of that accurate?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Yeah but I think its been set up for well over a month now.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Ok, let's see what tomorrow's tests bring.


----------



## DrTim's (Jun 8, 2010)

As prov 356 said - your pH is too low not only for fish but for the nitrifiers. What is your tapwater pH and alkalinity?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I'll have to test that when I'm home from work tonight. Along with my ammonia level. 
But having been thinking about it, I think prov356, it was overfeeding. Because when I first got the fish I was feeding to what the food container recommended which was A LOT. Twice a day.
Should be much more under control from here on out because I plan on either feeding lightly once a day or every other day when all this is under control.
Having said that, if I wanted to get a couple more fish, kinda want an albino zebra again, do you think that would be ok once this is all over? Do you have a different recommendation for species? (Too much blue already) And do you think my tank is under filtered?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> But having been thinking about it, I think prov356, it was overfeeding. Because when I first got the fish I was feeding to what the food container recommended which was A LOT. Twice a day.


Probably right, as it appears something was just overwhelming the biofiltration. Overfeeding will do that. I try to give enough so each fish gets just enough. Sounds silly, but picture the size of their stomachs then X number of fish. I use a measuring scoop so I can scoop some out and see exactly how much I'm feeding.



> Should be much more under control from here on out because I plan on either feeding lightly once a day or every other day when all this is under control.


Goor plan.



> Having said that, if I wanted to get a couple more fish, kinda want an albino zebra again, do you think that would be ok once this is all over? Do you have a different recommendation for species?


I'm a tanganyikan guy, so can't help you there.



> And do you think my tank is under filtered?


I would add another HOB or small canister if it were mine. I wouldn't rely on one whisper filter for a tank full of cichlids. Seems to me that it doesn't allow much margin for error to only have one filter. Redundancy is a good thing.

I think you'll pull out of this now and be ok. Good learning experience. :thumb:


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Okay tonights test says....... ammonia is at 1.0


----------



## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Nitrite?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> Okay tonights test says....... ammonia is at 1.0


Let's see what 24 hours later brings. A series of tests is needed to see what direction things are going. And, as mentioned, start testing nitrite also.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Ok tonight ammonia is about exactly the same it seems, nitrite at 0.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> Ok tonight ammonia is about exactly the same it seems, nitrite at 0.


Ok, it's good that it's not skyrocketing again. Maintain, and keep doing what you're doing. Hopefully we soon see ammonia drop and nitrite start to rise. It really seems like you're still in the very early stages of cycling here as if no progress was made before. Maybe because ammonia was so high. But keep testing and posting, and feeding lightly and doing small water changes, if needed to keep ammonia at or below 1ppm. Once ammonia drops to 0 and nitrite rises, you'll be doing water changes to keep that down. When that drops, you're good to go.

Are you still planning to add the filter?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Okay, ammonia basically exactly the same, nitrite at .25

What can I expect now?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> Okay, ammonia basically exactly the same, nitrite at .25
> 
> What can I expect now?


Nitrite rising means ammonia will be dropping. Ammonia will probably go to 0 within a day or so and nitrite will rise higher. You'll now need to keep a close eye on nitrite and do water changes to keep levels down just like with ammonnia. Different toxin, but same methods of dealing with it. You're actually getting normal readings that make sense, so that's good. Keep the feeding light.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

So at what point should I try to keep my nitrite under?


----------



## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Try and keep it around 1ppm.
Here's what's going on, might help to understand the method to all this madness, lol.
The bacteria consumes ammonia is becoming established, now we're trying to get the Nitrite consuming bacteria going.
When ammonia starts going down on it's own, it's being converted to Nitrite, so Nitrite will go up.
Soon, bacteria will start converting Nitrite to Nitrate (far less toxic) and the Nitrite will go down.
When that happens, you're cycled or in this case, recycled, lol.
Hope this helps explain the process.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> So at what point should I try to keep my nitrite under?


I'd also suggest 1ppm. It's a good guideline. Hopefully this next spike will be brief and you'll be on your way to a successful tank.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Ammonia was down to .25 last night and nitrite up to .50. Kenyi died, did a 25% water change.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> Ammonia was down to .25 last night and nitrite up to .50. Kenyi died, did a 25% water change.


Good news and bad news. The good news is that the tank is finally cycling. The bad news obviously is that it's taken a toll on at least one fish. You're doing all you can do. You just have to ride it out. More of us than will admit started this way. I killed a full 20 gallon tank of fish my first try because I knew nothing about the nitrogen cycle.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I initially noticed that he was sick when the ammonia got really high, rapid gill movement and was hiding a lot. it really is too bad, though I have to admit I'm glad it was one of the trouble makers rather than the innocent guys.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Good news and bad news.

Venustus died overnight. No signs of illness or anything, he was the last one i'd expected to die.

The albino zebra who lost his tail and disappeared before I could move him to the isolation tank a few weeks ago, the one we removed alllll the rocks to try and find his dead body, is swimming around this morning with half of a healthy tail! I am shocked!!!

Also, both ammonia and nitrite tested at 0 this morning. Is that even possible?!?!


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Also, both ammonia and nitrite tested at 0 this morning. Is that even possible?!?!


Yes, very possible. Means (if accurate) that your bacteria were there, somewhat, but just either inhibited or overwhelmed or both. So, once we got the ammonia down, they caught up. Take a couple of readings, of course, and include nitrate readings now also. If ammonia and nitrite stay at 0, and nitrate starts to rise (although hard to discern on those cards), then you pulled out of it. A couple of fatallities, but one fish found and a bit older and wiser  . Keep us posted.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

I'll post all 3 results tonight.

In the mean time, I bought rocks from a fish store about a month ago and after putting them in noticed that one had a little bit of orange growth/fungus/algae stuff on it. Didn't think much of it. Now I'm growing orange-ish algae.

Could it be harmful? How many hours per day should I have my lights on?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

If it's truly algae, no reason it would be harmful. I'd be interested in seeing it if you could post a pic. I don't think I've ever grown orange algae and I've had lots of weird stuff.

I do 8 hours (3PM - 11PM) because I'm not home during the day. My tank gets indirect light the rest of the day. I'd limit it to 12 max unless you've got some really good algae cleaners. No hard and fast rules here.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

The ammonia and nitrite are at 0 and nitrate is at 5.0.

The algae looking at it is more brown... I don't know for sure that it's algea but its growing on my rocks/filter intake/plants.

What are some good algae eaters for cichlid tanks?


----------



## pogre (Nov 9, 2010)

michelle_rutledge23 said:


> The ammonia and nitrite are at 0 and nitrate is at 5.0.
> 
> The algae looking at it is more brown... I don't know for sure that it's algea but its growing on my rocks/filter intake/plants.
> 
> What are some good algae eaters for cichlid tanks?


If they are juveniles a big bushy nosed pleco might make it. Mine does a great job.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> The ammonia and nitrite are at 0 and nitrate is at 5.0.


Good sign. Let's see now over a few readings.



> What are some good algae eaters for cichlid tanks?


BN plecos or nerite snails. I use both. Love the snails. Plecos do better in some of my tanks more than others. Nerites always get it done. Not sure if you're familiar with them. They'll lay some eggs, but they don't hatch in freshwater, so they don't over run your tank. You can usually find some good deals on them at aquabid. For a 55, I'd probably do 6-8 of them. They'll eat any algae, diatoms, whatever. Plecos usually will also. I've seen local shops also carrying the snails now too.



















The zebra's are nice, but the olive nerites lived the longest for me.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Ok thank you both. I'll see what I can find at the local fish stores and go from there. I would hate for my whole tank to turn brown.

As far as water changes from here on out...when do I decide I need to do another?


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> As far as water changes from here on out...when do I decide I need to do another?


Keep an eye on nitrates, and when they approach 40, it's time for a change. Let nitrates be your guide. After a while, you'll come up with a schedule and amount based on history and won't need to be constantly testing nitrate. But, as the fish grow or numbers are added it can increase more rapidly.


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

Nitrites and ammonia still at 0 nitrates at 5 still as well.


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

That's real good. I think the tank is out of danger. Resume a normal feeding schedule, but closely monitor the amount. Be a bit stingy with the food. They'll do fine. Leave the filter alone for at least 30 days (I go 45-60 after cycling), and wait until nitrate pushes 40ppm before starting a water change routine again. Leaving it alone to let it stabilize is the most important thing at this point. Is there anything else I'm forgetting that you still need any help with?


----------



## michelle_rutledge23 (Dec 5, 2010)

So you think its safe to add a couple newbies? If so, better to buy a little bigger or smaller or same size to add in?

And I think you've covered everything. You've been very helpful, thank you![/code]


----------



## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I think it's safe to add a couple, yes. And, you're welcome.


----------

