# Do I really need a Power Head/Circulation Pumps



## brijar (Oct 16, 2011)

Hello, I'm new to the Cichlid forums and the world of Cichlids in general so please bare with me. I just recently set up my 75 gal tank for Africans, I've got an Ehiem Classic 2215 filter and a couple of air stones, lots of rocks and artificial plants for cover. My question is this, with the air stones breaking the surface as well as the output flow of the Eheim filter, do I need a circulation pump or power head? If so which is preferred? My local tropical fish store said it's not needed, but won't hurt anything by adding it. I've got a ton of aquascaping so there is very little room to add anything else, but if I need to I will.

Thanks
--Brian :thumb:


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

If you feel the air stones are creating enough current as it is, then neither is needed. A good way to test the current is get some methylene blue (fish medication) and put 3 or 4 drops in and see how long it takes for the water to turn blue. You want it to turn blue as fast as possible. The Methylene Blue won't hurt your fish and the blue will go away in about a week (with proper water changes).


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## zimmy (Aug 13, 2010)

Welcome to the forum.

It's hard to answer your question without looking at the tank. Your specific arrangement of rocks, plants, etc will determine if there are still dead spots in the tank where water does not circulate. The goal is to balance the objective of minimizing (or eliminating) deadspots without turning your tank into a whirlpool so that the fish have no where to rest (some cichlids are particularly sensitive to this).

Having said that, a 2215 is only estimated to move about 164 gph. Your airstones probably add very little to the total water circulation. That's not much for a 75 gallon. My guess would be that strategically placing a powerhead or two would benefit your tank but a video of your tank would tell us for sure.


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## brijar (Oct 16, 2011)

I just uploaded a small video here http://www.bjdigiphoto.com/IMG_1054.MOV Give it a few seconds to load. You can see on the right side there is a bit of a current where the plants are moving but on the left where the output is there is only the surface current. Your thoughts are appreciated, and yes the tank is a little cloudy, been that way for a few days but the filter was just added on Friday so it's still cycling (the fish were introduced today)

-Brian :thumb:


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## Tadgo (Jul 31, 2011)

Try changing the angle of the spray bar. Im not familar with that filter, but if I was doing a live planted tank your flow (minus the airstones) looks good. I think your flow needs to be increased. Just my $.02.

On a side note I do like the look of your tank.


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## zimmy (Aug 13, 2010)

Tadgo said:


> Try changing the angle of the spray bar.


+1 If possible you could also fill your tank to a slightly lower level than it currently is (even just a quarter of an inch) and that will give you much more air exchange at the surface because the spray bar will cause more intense agitation of the water (it will be a bit louder though so you have to experiment to find a happy balance).

I would also add a powerhead. You'll have to play with that too in terms of positioning to see what has the most desirable result.

Nice looking tank. :thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

There are many ways to look at the need for equipment. I tend to work with the minimum equipment I need to get the job done. Any more means more work to maintain. Powerheads are a somewhat recent development in the hobby and we got by for many years without them so they are not "reguired" as such. They can be very handy in the right place and right tank but I would want to see how the water moved around the tank and how it all worked before making a decision. I think dead spots are somewhat an overworked idea in many cases. It is possible but when water sets, it will not be the same temperature as the rest of the tank. When there is a difference in temperature, cool water will settle and warm will rise. This makes true dead spots not dead spots if the water is moving??? The water does not need to move fast to avoid becoming stagnant. Just as long as much of the water is moving to the surface, the rest will be okay.


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## brijar (Oct 16, 2011)

Looking at everything in the tank there is movement throughout although minimal on the side with the output wand. you can see the movement on the right on the video link above but it's very hard to see the movement on the left. I'd rather not buy more equipment if I can avoid it, which is why I'm trying to get as much input as possible here.


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## brinkles (Jan 30, 2011)

I use a large powerhead to keep the poop stirred off the sand so the filters can pick it up, that's the only reason I got it.

Airstones actually do a decent job of moving water, I just don't like the look myself.

I'd personally be looking at a HOB filter to reduce maintenance on the eheim. Canisters are better bio filters because they hold so much media, and HOB filters are better mechanical filters because they're easier to clean.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

You might find a cheap HOB filter Like the $15 dollar type from Wal-mart would move the water and serve to filter. They can be had at cheaper prices.


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## brijar (Oct 16, 2011)

For the HOB are you thinking just Charcoal since I've already got he Bio going? I like the idea of additional filtration, never a bad idea.


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## brinkles (Jan 30, 2011)

I don't use charcoal, people use it to remove medicine but I just drain the tank. Use floss/foam pads, and clean them often. I blow them out with the garden hose because I have the bio covered with the canister, bio wheels, etc.


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## Vadimshevchuk (May 23, 2009)

The King Crabb said:


> If you feel the air stones are creating enough current as it is, then neither is needed. A good way to test the current is get some methylene blue (fish medication) and put 3 or 4 drops in and see how long it takes for the water to turn blue. You want it to turn blue as fast as possible. The Methylene Blue won't hurt your fish and the blue will go away in about a week (with proper water changes).


I wouldn't use it because it can dye your silicone to a blueish green. On the side note is a small amount.


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## brijar (Oct 16, 2011)

While Inlike the idea of adding a HOB filter, I only have 3 1/4 inches behind the tank. I didn't need much room because of the Ehiem I've got. Are there any slim HOB filters that will do the trick?


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## zimmy (Aug 13, 2010)

brijar said:


> While Inlike the idea of adding a HOB filter, I only have 3 1/4 inches behind the tank. I didn't need much room because of the Ehiem I've got. Are there any slim HOB filters that will do the trick?


An Aquaclear 50 requires 2 3/4" clearance. That would work well since it's not handling the filtration duties on its own.


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## brijar (Oct 16, 2011)

I've decided to go with the AquaClear 50, it will show up tomorrow and let you know how it goes.


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## FatCat11cz (Nov 30, 2010)

I just got an Aqueon 950 circulation pump this past weekend. I put it in my 75gal hoping to keep the detritus from piling up on the sand bed. It has worked wonders. But the best benifit has been watching the fish form schools and just floating in the flow. They are swimming but not going anywhere, Kinda cool to watch. hey get tired, and then some break off to rest, and then a few minutes later, they are back again. I do turn the pump off when I feed though to keep the food from blowing around.

I turn the pump on for maybe an hour a couple times a day. My 2 marineland 400 HOBs do a great job of oxygenating the water.


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## brijar (Oct 16, 2011)

FatCat11cz-
I was debating the circulation pump, but I have limited room in my tank for one since it's overloaded with rocks and plants. The addition of the HOB filter should do the trick, plus I get the added mech filtration out of it.


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