# 150 gallon stocking question



## erk419 (Dec 14, 2009)

I have a 150 gallon tank that I will be setting up soon as a mbuna tank. I would like to overstock to help with agression. I went to my LPS the other day and made a list of all the ones they have here it is.

Frontosa cichlid
Demasoni cichlid
Powder blue cichlid
Maingano
Hap compressicep
Eb haplochromis ahli
Auratus
P kennyi
Cobalt blue
Ice blue zebra
Zebra obliquidens
Albino redfin zebra
Jewel
Red top cobalt zebra
Red fin borleyi
Albino socolofi
Accei
Haplochromis milomo
B b omatus 
Eb johanni
Hap venustus
Rusty springeri
Haplochromis electra
P elongatus
Ob zebra
Red zebra
Yellow labidochromis
Asst african cichlid
Ornatus
Labidochromis
Chrysonotus

Would I be able to mix any of these? How many total do you think would work in my tank? Thanks in advance to those who reply.


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## timbruun (Oct 13, 2009)

You should really make a list of what you would like to have in the tank and we can tell you if it will work or not. Alot of those can be mixed without much issues. With a 150 you can have alot of fish as long as you have adequte filtration.


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## scrubjay (Oct 25, 2009)

yes, would be good to select several species you really want to have, if you know, and then we can help you determine how to make a compatible stocking list.

Mbuna tanks are often stocked with several groups of species, with a male and several females of each. Some people strive for an all-male tank, with a male of each species. I would recommend the former, especially with your big tank.

Take a look at the mbuna suggestions for a 75-gallon tank just to give you an idea of ways to stock a tank with mbuna. Obviously yours is twice as big.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/cookie_cutter_75g.php

Here is some info that will help. I have provided the proper scientific names for aid in learning more about the species.

Frontosas (_Cyphotilapia _spp.) are generally kept in colonies as a species tank.

The ultra-aggressives that tend to wreak havoc in community tanks include: auratus (_Melanochromis auratus_), kenyi (_Metriaclima lombardoi_), johanni (_Melanochromis johannii_). I would avoid these if you want a higher chance of success.

Moderately aggressive species: red top cobalt zebra (I think they mean _Metriaclima pyrsonotos_), albino redfin zebra (_Metriaclima pyrsonotos_ in albino form), red zebra (_Metriaclima estherae_), Demasoni (_Pseudotropheus demasoni_) (If you want to keep demasoni, you should get at least 12 to spread out their aggression), "Eb haplochromis ahli" (_Sciaenochromis fryer_?)

Least-aggressive (*best *for communities): Rusties (_Iodotropheus sprengerae_), Yellow Labs (_Labidochromis caeruleus_), Acei (_Pseudotropheus _sp. "Acei"), Cobalt Blue (_Metriaclima callainos_), Albino socolofi (_Pseudotropheus socolofi_), powder blue (if they mean the blue form of _Labidochromis caeruleus_), zebra obliquidens (_Astatotilapia latifasciata_), ice blue (_Metriaclima greshakei_) maingano (_Melanochromis cyaneorhabdos_)

Not sure about "jewel" (_Pseudotropheus _sp. "Elongatus Ruarwe"?) Some of the _elongatus _species are very aggressive.

You may want to avoid mixing mbuna with Haps/Haplochromines because the latter are much more peaceful fish, or much larger fish: "Red fin borleyi (_Copadichromis borleyi_), _Nimbochromis venustus_, Haplochromis milomo (_Placidochromis milomo_, or "VC-10"), "haplochromis compressiceps (_Dimidiochromis compressiceps_), "haplochromis electra" (_Placidochromis electra_), "Chrysonotus" (_Copadichromis azureus_).

HOWEVER, you might want to consider doing a Malawi haplochromis tank instead of a mbuna tank. Number one, because they _require _a large tank, while you can keep mbuna in relatively smaller tanks, number two, because they might not pose such a problem with aggression in a community as mbuna, and number three, because they are AWESOME. Check out Wietze Bron's magnificent tank:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=1431496&highlight=#1431496
You could always consider ordering your fish online if you are going to spend a lot anyway. Then you could get some of the "cooler" species 8)

Steer clear of "assorted African cichlids" because they often contain hybrids and poorly bred strains, as well as the most aggressive species.

Avoid stocking species of the same genus (we can tell you which these are) and species closely resembling each other.

That should keep you busy for a bit! :lol:


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## scrubjay (Oct 25, 2009)

anyone more experienced with mbuna, please correct anything I have gotten wrong based on your knowledge and experience.


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## erk419 (Dec 14, 2009)

Thanks alot for your guys help! That link takes awhile to load but that tank is amazing. I make up a list and post it on here and see what you guys think.


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## Matt1986 (May 15, 2009)

I think the 'Jewel' cichlid is probably the African riverine cichlid _Hemichromis bimaculatus_ rather than an elongatus species. Probably best left out of the mix either way.


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## s.patelski (Nov 11, 2009)

You can also get a basic Afican cichlid compatibility chart on line.


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## ridley25 (Jan 5, 2008)

scrubjay said:


> You may want to avoid mixing mbuna with Haps/Haplochromines because the latter are much more peaceful fish, or much larger fish: "Red fin borleyi (_Copadichromis borleyi_), _Nimbochromis venustus_, Haplochromis milomo (_Placidochromis milomo_, or "VC-10"), "haplochromis compressiceps (_Dimidiochromis compressiceps_), "haplochromis electra" (_Placidochromis electra_), "Chrysonotus" (_Copadichromis azureus_).


Talk about above and beyond the call of duty...what a thorough answer!

But I have one question about the quote above (I'm always trolling for ideas on a big tank): are you suggesting the Haps you listed might do well with mbuna because they're large enough to handle themselves, or that they might not do well with mbuna because they're too large?



s.patelski said:


> You can also get a basic Afican cichlid compatibility chart on line.


I have yet to see one of those charts that's at all reliable - but if you have one, post a link!

kevin


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## scrubjay (Oct 25, 2009)

Ridley, you know, I am not sure why I mentioned the larger size! lol. Because it was 3 am, probably. :roll:

I think it is great that the poster was interested enough in coming up with a good community tank that he listed all the African cichlids he could find locally. So many people buy the "mixed Africans" and then need advice on damage control. I had an ulterior motive though--I don't have much experience with the Malawi cichlids, so it helps me learn too. The common names used by fish stores are so confusing to me!! I like to keep track of which mbuna tend to be less aggressive and good in community tanks, and what combinations have worked for people. Could be worth a thread on its own. I'm curious whether combining species of "moderately aggressive" mbuna is better than mixing mellow and moderately aggressive mbuna?

Matt, I am sure you are right about the jewel cichlid. and agree it shouldn't be in the mix.

Sometimes I have way too much energy in the middle of the night :?


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

erk419 said:


> I have a 150 gallon tank that I will be setting up soon as a mbuna tank. I would like to overstock to help with agression. I went to my LPS the other day and made a list of all the ones they have here it is.
> ...
> Would I be able to mix any of these? How many total do you think would work in my tank? Thanks in advance to those who reply.


What are the dimensions of the tank? - a 4ft 150 is a whole different animal vs. a 6ft 150 vs. an 8ft 150 as far as stocking. Floor space of the tank is of supreme importance when stocking mbuna.

I have done pretty much every misguided and wrong thing keeping Malawi's that you can do over the years, so I can speak from some experience.

A few thoughts.

Do not add Haps/Peacocks to your mbuna tank. A combination tank with Yellow Labs and Ps Aceii groups and male Haps/peacocks is a fabulous way to go, but outside of those two mbuna I wouldn't mix mbuna/Haps in the confines of an aquarium. Other combinations can work - but don't make it a first try please.

Make sure all of your fish look as different as possible - no two blue barred fish e.g. Ps. Demasoni and Ps. Elongatus should not be combined.

The only Melanochromis species you should try for a first mbuna tank is Melanochromis cyaneorhabdos (the Maingano) the rest are too aggressive to start with IMO.

Do not keep the kennyi - plenty of other pretty fish without the insane aggression.

Basically, medium to lower aggression mbuna should be your stocking targets.

Use a Fishless cycle.

Look into local fish clubs.

Go with the fish you *really* like even if you have to order them online - newsflash - you'll end up buying them down the road if you don't do it now.

A stocking list like:

Cynotilapia sp. "hara"
Metriaclima sp. "Msobo"
Melanochromis cyaneorhabdos
Labidochromis sp. "Perlmutt"
Iodotropheus sprengerae

Would give you a very colorful and not insanely aggressive tank if you have 6ft 150, just as a starting point to the not having species look alike etc for you to research. There are many more combinations.

Please post a couple of you favorites and we can get you more direction.

Good Luck.

Edit: You may want to post over on the Malawi board - you will get tons of mbuna help over there.


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## scrubjay (Oct 25, 2009)

Thanks Goofboy!
I'm glad someone with more direct experience has chimed in.


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## NorthernPike (Jan 13, 2010)

I have a 135 gal of mixed haps and mbuna - it's been set up since the summer, and so far so good. I have consulted the Cichlid-Forum profiles looking for species that are peaceful or mildly aggressive. This seems to have worked. Here's what I have so far...

Mbuna:
5 labidochromis caerulus (3m, 2f)
4 pseudotropheus kingsizei (3m, 1f)
2 pseudotropheus acei (breeding pair)
2 pseudotropheus socolofi albino (juvies)
1 pseudotropheus elongatus 'hai reef jewel spot' (m)
1 pseudotropheus elongatus chewere (this one still a juvie)

Haps/Peacocks
2 mylochromis sphaerodon (2m)
2 otopharyx heterodon (2 m)
1 otopharyx lithobates (m)
1 aulonocara stuartgranti 'ngara flametail' (m)
1 aulonocara stuartgranti 'german red' (f)

Catfish:
1 synodontis multipunctatus
1 synodontis nigriventris

I feed them regularly with flake and pellets and make regular water changes - everything cool so far.
Good luck with your set-up!


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## scrubjay (Oct 25, 2009)

NorthernPike, are your mbuna still relatively small? Won't there be a lot of aggression and competition for females with those sex ratios once they become sexually mature?


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

scrubjay said:


> Won't there be a lot of aggression and competition for females with those sex ratios once they become sexually mature?


Yes.


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## NorthernPike (Jan 13, 2010)

I figured that with the number of fish in the tank the aggression would be dispersed. I have many rocks and plants for them to hide. The 'top dogs' in the tank so far are the Pseudotropheus Kingsizei. I will probably sell two of the three males, as they have pretty much divided the tank into three sections. They also dig alot.
But, in selecting my fish, most of my species are not overly aggressive.
(sorry for the delay in responding)


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

NorthernPike said:


> I figured that with the number of fish in the tank the aggression would be dispersed. I have many rocks and plants for them to hide. The 'top dogs' in the tank so far are the Pseudotropheus Kingsizei. I will probably sell two of the three males, as they have pretty much divided the tank into three sections. They also dig alot.
> But, in selecting my fish, most of my species are not overly aggressive.
> (sorry for the delay in responding)


The Pseudotropheus elongatus 'hai reef jewel spot' may very well become more aggressive than your Kingsizei and will look to claim females to breed with - even if they aren't 'hai reef jewel spot', same thing holds if the 'chewere' is a male. My experience is stocking singletons of the elongatus complex is an unfortunate choice - but hey, you may have better luck than I ever did.

Numerous females for a single male is strongly/widely recommended for a reason, it tends to give a much greater chance of long term success.

God Luck.


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## NorthernPike (Jan 13, 2010)

One of the problems I encounter is that when purchasing from an LFS, you get unsexed juvies, and more often than not, I end up with all males. I will certainly look out for more agression as my elongatus get more mature. I do have a few extra tanks set-up as quarantine.
Thanks for the heads-up.


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