# DIY Stand question?



## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

I just got around to starting my diy stand. I based the plans off of the double 55g stand plans from the library section on this forum. I don't do any woodwork, so i am beyond basic with this stuff. I started to put together the bottom frame and it does not lay flat on the ground. It is kind of warped. What can I do to fix this? Also, does it matter? I read a few places that when I put the plywood skin on, that any wobbles will be gone... The 2x4's that I have are rounded so they stick out a little as well. I figured I could just sand that till its even. I have read as long as where the tank rests is a flat surface I will be ok...

I am using 3 inch wood screws as well...


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

If you are going to skin the stand then I would recommend not to use warped wood because it is hard to achieve a square stand if warped.

If you are just going with 2x4" construction then it should not be a problem as long as the stand tank is level when put on the stand.

Obviously I have not seen the plans on the site, too lazy to look for them.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

here ya go: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/D ... iy_pt1.php

Honestly, I know nothing about woodwork. I had the pieces cut at home depot, bought 3'' wood screws and tried to put together the bottom frame. It seemed difficult to make them even. I predrilled the holes, but it still didnt really come out straight. I'm not sure if I did it wrong, or if the wood is warped, lol... If anyone can help me out with making it straight, in as BASIC of explanations, I would be very happy...

The link above is basic 2x4 construction. I would do the same, but I wanted to add a hinged piece to cover the open area of the bottom 55g. But, I am having my issues in the most basic of the stand build, lol...


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Yeah, usually HD and Lowes do not cut wood square enough. Do you have a tape measure? If so, measure the length and with of the boards, you will find that they may be off 1/16" up a 1/2" and that can mess up your outer frame. I would use drywall screws to join the wood, they have a better grip and wood glue as well when joining.

There is not much you can do about getting the 2x4" straight unless you want to take them to a wood mill so they can run them by a machine that shaves off the excess to straighten them out or if you know a hardcore carpenter that has the machine maybe he can hook you up. If you have a skill saw you can square the panes yourself. You will need a straight edge, you can use any of the pieces that were cut for you at HD as a straight edge. Measure the wood you are going to cut then measure it on the opposite end on the same side, one will be longer, say the shorter side is 48" and the longer one is 48 1/4" so you would draw a line from the shorter end to the longer end but the line would be a 48" on each side. Then you would measure your skill saw depending on what side you are going to use it so measure from where the bottom frame of the saw starts to the blade and you will position the straight edge that distance from the line to be cut. you will use the straight edge as a guide for the skill saw and have at it the blade will cut 0" at the shorter side and .25" off the longer side.

Hopefully that made sense, oh and then you would do the same to the other sides of the panel of wood.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

If it didn't make sense, here is a video I found, same idea but he is using a square as a straight edge and doesn't have to measure anything except his distance of the blade to the cut so he can position his straight edge.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

Thats a good video for getting a straight edge. I checked the other pieces and they are def warped a bit. How worried should I be? I kind of just want to get the frames put together, no matter how off they are and then sand them flat. But, I dont know if that will solve it. There is prob a 1/4 inch to maybe half an inch of travel.

Will it be stable once I put the plywood framing on there?


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Wait, I was talking about the plywood when I said you could square yourself. The 2x4" would be easier to run by the machine (cant remember what its called).

If you are worried about the plywood being warped, don't be, once you start joining it to the 2x4" frame it should take the shape of it.

Plywood or 2x4"s, you will not be able to sand them flat, at least not without massive amounts of elbow grease :lol: . If you have a belt sander it would definitely help but it is time consuming.

It will be stable as soon as the frame of 2x4" is done, the plywood will give it super strength.

If you were going with the 2x4" only, I would say not to worry to much about it being too square but when adding the plywood to the sides and front, your 2x4" frame should be square to be able to apply the wood and have it look nice.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

So, dont be worried about the 2x4 frame being not square and wobbly? I only have the bottom frame done and it will not lay even close to flat. I am gonna start on the top frame, but I see that the 2x4 is warped, so I anticipate it not being straight either. So, once the 2 frames are joined it should be pretty stable? or once I skin it with the plywood? I appreciate the help, as I have never done woodwork...I am good with all else, lol...This is just foreign for me...


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

You don't need to worry about it if you are *not* going to use the plywood. The 2x4" frame alone should be pretty sturdy and not wobbly, that is why I recommended drywall screws, they have a better grip, I got this tip from my brother in law who is a carpenter.

Once the two frames are joined it should be pretty stable without the plywood. It becomes super stable with the plywood.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

Well, I planned on using something to skin the frame. I wanted to dress it up a bit. I feel like I can make the framing straight....I'm just going to assemble it and pray for the best, lol...


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

mightyevil said:


> You don't need to worry about it if you are *not* going to use the plywood. The 2x4" frame alone should be pretty sturdy and not wobbly, that is why I recommended drywall screws, they have a better grip, I got this tip from my brother in law who is a carpenter.
> 
> Once the two frames are joined it should be pretty stable without the plywood. It becomes super stable with the plywood.


 Unfortunately, when drywall screws are sunk into wood instead of drywall, the heads pop off. Perhaps he meant deck screws, which are sturdier, but still lose a head once in a while. I know I once in a while say drywall when I mean deck screws since in my experience the drywall screws were around a lot longer.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

Okay, so I def feel better about myself right now... I took the two long boards for the 2nd frame, and matched up two 11'' pieces that were just about perfect, and I took my time and assembled the first part. I had it completely flat and looked level... I then took the warped one(which wouldnt even sit close to straight) and did the first side. I had 3 of the four areas done. The remaining area showed how bad the warp was. I'd say one side was flat against the spacer, while the other side was upwards of an inch away from the board! I screwed in the one side and there was a gap of over an inch for the frame to be flat on the ground... So, I decided to try and sink the screw deep to close the gap and it did. But, it made the frame completely unstable. One side is about half an inch off the ground...I am thinking the wood is unusable....I have the 2 frames built, but they both are warped. Should I just take it back apart, and take off the really warped pieces and get new ones? Or, is it the nature of the beast and I have to make it work?


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## redstallion02 (Jan 17, 2008)

If you unscrew everything will it all sit flat?

Alot of times when people use deck screws it will twist on them and look like the boards are warped.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

No...I saw the 2nd long board was really warped befroe even attempting to put anything together. I decided to try and see if it would work anyway. It did, but it wont lay flat. I'm using wood screws as well.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

Not to offend anyone here, but you have not gotten any useful advice yet. I'm a carpenter and have built dozens of stands, houses, not to mention numerous bits of furniture . That doesn't mean I know everything, but I can tell you the following with certainty: *Do not* use drywall screws in wood, they are very weak. *Do not* use particle board or Oriented Strand Board as the article you metioned shows. OSB does not tolerate water very well, it will swell and sag at the same time. Use exterior grade plywood or seal the plywood with varathane. 2x4's are cheap ($1.80 around here) Go back and buy some straight ones. Sight along each one from the end and it should look perfectly straight. glue and screw everything on a stand and put plywood on the top, sides and the back of the stand.

The stand design you have chosen to follow is way too complicated for your skill level and has some serious design flaws. The stand will hold the tanks it was designed for, but it's likely to have issues with shrinkage. Try and find a better plan.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

I gave advise as it was given to me by a carpenter as well. I built a stand for a 180 gallon tank and it held well, the drywall screws I used worked for me very well and the stand is extremely rigid. Not to offend anyone either but my brother in law is a heck of a carpenter and I trust his advise. I agree with not using particle board or osb is does swell up with water. Oh and I never had any heads pop off my drywall screws for what its worth.

Oh and another thing, if you take it apart you will have to use different places to drill your screws because if you use the same holes the screws will not hold as well as the first time.


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## Morpheus (Nov 12, 2008)

I've never had a problem using drywall screws when building stands, as long as you are using glue as well. The screws simply hold the wood in place until the glue dries. To avoid having the screw heads snap off, I just make sure to pre-drill and countersink the holes.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

well, again, I am using wood screws so it should be a moot point. I will use different places to drill after I take it apart. I am going to get new 2x4's as the ones that I have for the base frames are too warped. Like it was mentioned, they are only a couple bucks, so its better to just go get some. I know what to look for now to be straight


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