# Eheim 2262 Micro Bubbles



## alainburon (Jul 13, 2020)

I recently replaced my canister filter from my old 2260 to a new 2262 and now I have these micro bubbles all the time. I used the media that was in the 2260 all I did was rinse it out and replace the filters. It has been a week and it's still not stopped, they don't come in spurts they are constantly coming out. Very small bubbles which makes the water appear cloudy. I thought it maybe sucking air so I removed the O ring on the top of the canister and put O ring lube, I also did the same thing to the O ring at the elbow going to the pump as well as the one on the impeller cover and still having the same problem. The canister filter pulls from the bottom of the aquarium and the return is at the bottom as well at the opposite side of the aquarium.

This is how I have the media and filters stacked

Tetra Blue Pond filter material at the bottom screen, followed by Eheim Mech, Followed by another Tetra Blue Pond filter material, followed by Eheim Subtratpro, followed by Eheim Synth then the top screen.

I have ran this set up for years on the 2260 and never had an issue, not sure why this is happening on the 2262. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Hi and Welcome to C-F!!

Since you are familiar with the Eheim 2260/62 series filters, the only things I can think of are the intake tubing to hose connection isn't snug enough or there is still a bit of trapped air in the filter. Have you tried unplugging the power cord and waited a few minutes to allow any air to rise up to the top of the filter and up through the output hose?

Did you reuse the old hoses, intake and spray bar or did you use all the new parts? Just curious if the hoses have sags or excessive drooping that may be trapping air.


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## alainburon (Jul 13, 2020)

Thanks for the reply, I have tried unplugging the filter and letting it sit for a few minutes and still have the same issue. I replaced both the intake and outlet hoses. I don't have a spray bar per say, it's just a fitting on the bottom of the aquarium with a tube that goes into the aquarium about a foot.

One thing I did is I made the output hose longer than the one I had previously and it is drooping. I wonder if that could be the problem? I never though a drooping hose could cause an issue in a sealed system.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

You could try lifting the output hose a bit to see if that helps but after thinking more about it, I'm betting that you are drawing in air from wherever the intake hose makes a connection. Make sure that you the hoses have an even cut where they make their connections and that the hose clamps are snug.

Do you have the quick disconnect (QD) valves also? Check the hose cuts on them also and add a bit of lube to the o-ring on the QD's also.


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## Cichlidude (Feb 7, 2010)

Try rocking the canister back and forth, front to back for a minute or more to see if more bubbles come out.


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## alainburon (Jul 13, 2020)

Well I have tried everything suggested so far and the same problem. I had an aquarium service company come out and look at it yesterday and they think it's not micro air bubbles, they think it's my Eheim Subtratpro breaking down and being pushed out the canister in super small particles. They also said I need to add activated carbon for clear water. I have not used carbon in this tank for over 10 years and my water has been crystal clear. I feel some of these service companies just want to sell you something. I'm not totally convinced but for the sake of argument I will let them replace it next week and see what happens.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I have noticed that my Eheim SubstratPro is smaller in diameter from when I installed it about 12 years ago but I've never seen it cause micro-bubbles. I think the service company is just trying to sell something.

If you still feel like messing with the filter, I would remove the blue pond filter media at the bottom lattice screen even though you've run it that way on the old 2260 filter.

I find that I have fewest problems with air trapped after cleaning the filter is to make sure the output to the tank is completely empty of water in order to evacuate any entrapped air.

You mentioned there is a fitting on the bottom of the aquarium with a tube that goes into the aquarium about a foot for the return to tank instead of a spray bar. Any chance you can post pics of what that is?


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## alainburon (Jul 13, 2020)

Here are a few pictures of the filter set up I'm running and how it is plumed. You can also see the tube that I'm talking about inside the tank, that's where the water comes into the tank from the canister filter.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks for the pics!!

So both your intake and output for the filter to the aquarium are using bulkheads, correct?

How many shut off valves are you using on the intake AND the output hoses?

Did you know that you can rotate the Eheim pump on top of the canister so the output is pointing to the side rather than vertically? Rotating the pump would eliminate all that excess hose and allow a smoother transition to the ball valve at the bottom of the aquarium. Of course this would mean you couldn't use the gray snap on cover on the top of the filter housing.

I did this on all my Eheim 2260/62 filters due to a clearance issue in the stand and they've been running this way for over 10 years.

Here's a pic of the filter inside my stand.









This is a pic of the filter after cleaning and before reconnecting the pump output fitting, hose and QD valve.









If you are interested in how to rotate the pump, let me know and I can post the instructions.


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## alainburon (Jul 13, 2020)

Yes it uses bulkhead for the output but for the intake it's like a plastic strainer, like the one that comes with the 2262. I have one shout off valve for the intake and one for the output.

I did not realize you could turn the pump sideways. I'm not sure a shorter hose will fix my problem but that's good to know though, thank you.


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## salguod (May 1, 2011)

Deeda said:


> Thanks for the pics!!
> 
> So both your intake and output for the filter to the aquarium are using bulkheads, correct?
> 
> ...





Deeda said:


> Thanks for the pics!!
> 
> So both your intake and output for the filter to the aquarium are using bulkheads, correct?
> 
> ...


Please post instructions on how to rotate the pump. Thanks!


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## salguod (May 1, 2011)

Please post instructions on how to rotate the pump on the Eheim 2260. Thanks!


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

IF the pump AND pump plate are already mounted to the filter cover, you will need to remove the 4 Phillips head screws that attach the pump plate to the mounting plate on the filter cover.

Loosen the elbow fitting nut to the fitting on the filter cover so that you can lift the pump/plate off the canister filter.

Remove the elbow fitting from the pump by unscrewing it.

The pump mounting plate has 4 nubs that engage in the slots that are on the pump body. That is how it is attached to the pump.

Use a hammer (gently) and evenly tap the mounting plate on the bottom of the pump away from the rear of the pump (cord end) and toward the impeller cavity (elbow end). It make take a bit of force but be careful not to break the pump plate since it is plastic.

Once the plate is removed from the pump, you can rotate the pump and then slide the plate back on the pump. There should be an arrow on the pump mounting plate showing how to slide it onto the pump.

Depending on which way the cord exits the pump after you rotate it, it's possible the cord will hit the green tab on the mounting plate. I either cut the green tab off or it snaps off but either way it's not a problem.


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