# Preventative measure?



## live2bet (May 19, 2008)

Hi all, 
did a search but to no avail....
Me like all hobblist would like to have a problem free tank and i guess the best way is prevention, so this is my question,
beside adding conditioner (i'll be using Seachem Prime) after a water change are there any other stuff i should add?
For example 
1) Biological filtration booster
2) Aquarium salt
3) Epsom salt
3) Disease preventative chemical.

What other regular maintenance beside water change and equipments/media cleaning?

Thanks in advance.


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## 24Tropheus (Jun 21, 2006)

Its best to add the Seachem prime to the water for water change before its added.
Next best is to add it to the tank and then add the water.

Quarentined fish (from a reputable dealer, will be pre treated (ask yours about it)) kept in water low in nitrates and good filtration ((water changes are fine to do this) other things can get you out of trouble but are not needed) at the correct pH, GH and KH for that species, and avoiding mixes that are stressful by aggression or very different types, or tanks that are too small for the mix, is about all I do.


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## live2bet (May 19, 2008)

Thanks 24Tropheus.

No need for
*1) Biological filtration booster 
2) Aquarium salt 
3) Epsom salt 
3) Disease preventative chemical?*

Lfs suggested that i should add some ick prevention everytime i WC.


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## yogurtpooh (Jul 28, 2005)

just keep up your water changes and you'll be fine!


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## lloyd (Aug 24, 2005)

live2bet said:


> 1) Biological filtration booster
> 2) Aquarium salt
> 3) Epsom salt
> 3) Disease preventative chemical.


1) no, you will not need this on a regular basis. it could be useful if ever moving the tank to a new location, but most products are ill-effective, and the 'good stuff' requires refrigeration, and has a short shelf life.
2) yes. all tanks will eventually host ick, and knowing this, requires us to be vigilant with housekeeping maintenance. otherwise, this parasite can become invasive. tanks with sensitive species, crowded population, poor tankmate selections, deep substrate, multiple canisters, poor water circulation, crowded decor (eg. planted, excessive rock work), are all examples that could provide an environment suitable for an ick invasion. it does not need to be 'aquarium salt', per se, but salt is one product that needs to be in stock. dosing the tank regularly, in low dose, will not be a sufficient preventative. 
3) maybe. check your water's GH level, and match it to your fish's requirements. if your source water is in range, then epsom salt is not required. there are many who consider it a 'home remedy' for bloat like symptoms. you need to decide that 'usefulness' for yourself.
4)no. most 'preventatives' are either ill effective sale's props, or they are toxic.

contrary to your LFS salesperson, i would not put anything into an aquarium, unless it offers a required counter effect. for example: water change required=add dechlorinate, fish are sick= add medication, etc. the trouble with adding treatment, for the sake of prevention, is the (potential) tolerance increasing effect it provides to the antagonist.

edit to add: baking soda can be a useful stock item, depending on your fish selection, if your source water's KH and PH reading need to be adjusted to suit.


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## live2bet (May 19, 2008)

Thanks lloyd and yogurtpooh for the suggestions.
Anyone else?


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## Eb0la11 (Feb 29, 2008)

I dont use salt. I dont use chemicals, I dont use biological filtration booster.

You gotta think of the science behind it. A freshwater fish can live in tempered and chlorine free water that was basically poored into a bucket. The problem of sickness comes about when the fish starts to go to the bathroom so to say. That and when food is left to rot and release ammonia. Ammonia is whats harmful to the fish and there is bacteria that develops that eats the ammonia then gives off its own waste which is nitrite. Then theres another set of bacteria that eats this and releases nitrate, the least harmful of the three. This is removed by Water Changes (correct me if im wrong but thats right you could theoretically change 100% of your water and the fish would be ok assuming its tempered right, but you'd moreless be starving the bacteria colony. Of course you need to remove chlorine if you have it in the water, this is the only chemical i add)

Water changes should be like 25% a week but its different for every tank. If you had a 300 gallon tank with 1 fish and the filtration to handle that much water then you prob wouldnt have to change the water more than every couple months depending on the size of the fish. So you gotta figure out how often your water needs changing by testing the water. Lots of people dont like Nitrate to get above 40 ppm. So once its near that, change 25%, wait an hour and test again to see how much that 25% water change dropped it. Then test the next day and see how much it rose in a day and you'll get a gauge of how often it needs changing.

Just make sure your tank has cycled and has this bacteria colony to break down your fish's waste and you should be good.

Avoid over feeding. Only feed as much as the fish can eat in 1-2 minutes. If any sinks and is uneaten then it should be removed and less added next time.

Don't overcrowd your tank, especially if your filter cant build up a bacteria colony large enough to braek down the waste of all those fish.

No need for salt IMO. Do the fish need it? No. Not if the tank has low nitrate, nitrite and ammonia levels.

Dont introduce diseased fish. Dont cut a hole in your roof above your tank, dropping bits of debris in the water. Dont have soap on your hands before doing tank work etc... All simple rules. Its a closed system. If you just have good practice then your tank will be healthy without the addition of salt or chemicals. Your LFS owner is just trying to sell product, you cant blame him.


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## live2bet (May 19, 2008)

Thanks Eb0la11 for the detail explaination.
Sounds logical, but how do they get illness like ick and bloat?

Thanks in advance.


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## bccromer (Apr 13, 2004)

Illness generally happens due to introducing a new fish that already has it, or it is stress induced. Stress can be aggression in the tank, or water parameters. If you stock your tank well, and do regular water changes then neither one of these should occur. The other issue is diet, which if you feed well and the right things then illness should be practically zero.


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## Eb0la11 (Feb 29, 2008)

Ick can definitely grow in a tank on its own too. Im sure some research would explain it. I've only ever had ick come about once and it was from a fish I bought at a local fish store that had it. I didnt notice much til he got home and eventually it did invade my tank.

Salt can help with ick control for sure and salt is a medication that should be considered when the time comes but its quite unnecassary in most other circumstances unless you have fish that require it and cichlids dont really require it, they just tolerate it.

Another thing that controls ick is raised temperature. I like to keep my tank at around 80-81 degrees F and my fish have spawned at this temperature and its still a little on the high side by some standards.

Bloat is definitely caused mostly due to over or improper feeding. Some fish get bloat from blood worms, such as several cichlids like Frontosa.

For the most part, if you have enough filtration, (I like around 5x entire tank turnover per hour, which is probably more like 8x entire tank turnover if you use the factory rated GPH filters come with which are rated when they have no filter media in them whatsoever so at peak flow rate) and do your water changes before 40 ppm you should be fine to have a healthy tank. Just dont have sick fish to begin with, take a good look at their eyes, gills and fins at the fish store. Clouded eyes, tattered fins, pink or red gills are all bad signs of sickness or at the very least high stress levels.


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## live2bet (May 19, 2008)

Thank you very much Eb0la11 for taking time to do such a detailed explaination, i'm pretty sure myself and many other hobblists would appreciate you sharing your idea with us.
Thanks again Eb0la11


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## Gibbs (Apr 21, 2008)

I'm really surprised no-one has asked you the first questions that come to my mind.

What are the parameters of your tap water and what are the parameters of the water in your tank??? The more info you give about that, the better advice you will receive.

There is a good chance that you will have to add nothing but a dechlorinator. Cichlids are very adaptable and optimal Ph. Gh. etc is not that important with tank bred fish, however there is such think as completely unsuitable water, that will have to be rectified through the use of additives and good filter maintainance. That is worse case scenario.

As i said most of the time nothing but a dechlorinator is needed and i wouldn't bother with any meds until your fish encounter problems. If you pay close attention your tank you will notice when something is wrong and most diseases like "ich" are very easily cured.


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## live2bet (May 19, 2008)

Thanks Gibbs, water parameters is ok, just wanted to take some preventative measure for future.


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