# Please help - Cichlids rubbing on rocks, gravel, each other



## Ronzil (Mar 31, 2012)

I've got a 120 gallon tank, up for 3 months, 1 XP3 filter plus 2-Marineland 280's. Use RO water, have about 50 Cichlids, replace and clean filters 1/month, ammonia about .25ppm, nitrite 0 ppm and nitrate about 40 ppm.

They appear itchy, no white spots, tail fin on some is closed, bottom fins held against body, they swim in middle of tank. Excellent appetite. Have lost 1 fish and scales on some are now damaged.

Any ideas of my problem and a solution would be greatly appreciated!!!!


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## newbiecichlid99 (Jan 17, 2012)

i got same problem right now not really sure what the problem is going test water today hopefully it will shed some light on it


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

What kind of cichlids are you keeping? Reason for using RO water? List any water additives.
Have you checked your GH/KH? Ammonia should be 0 if the tank is cycled, could be a factor.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Damaged scales makes me think aggression. Maybe you have more than one thing going on. :thumb:


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

GTZ said:


> What kind of cichlids are you keeping? Reason for using RO water? List any water additives.
> Have you checked your GH/KH? Ammonia should be 0 if the tank is cycled, could be a factor.


Yep and also what type of fish specifically and size ranges? 50 in a 120 is quite a bit. How often are you doing water changes and how large?

As DJ said....could be aggression as well or a combination of all the above.


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## Ronzil (Mar 31, 2012)

What is GH/KH?

I don't believe that it is aggression because we've seen them rubbing themselves against the rocks. One dominate male has aggressively gone after one or two others but it is always the same fish. The kinds of chichlids we have? I'm not good with names but there is about 10 varieties all African Chiclids. They range in size from 1/2" to 4" but average size would be about 2" to 2.5".

I am suspecting ammonia build up so I've really put a lot of Fluval ammonia Remover stones in the XP3 filter along with charcoal and have used the ammonia remover pads which I replaced after having them installed for 1 week in the emperor 280 filter. I know that the ammonia content should be 0 ppm.

I have added a small quantity of Seachem Chichlid Lake Salt to the tank.
I've tried API Stress Coat+ as well as API Stress Zyme+ at different times.
The last thing I've tried was API Melafix which is a antibacterial fish remedy based on tea tree extract.

This problem started about 5 or 6 weeks ago and has slowly gotten worse.
My last filter change and cleaning was one week ago. The chemical analysis was completed today. I do not have any algae issues.

I have vacuumed the gravel twice in the last 3 months and replaced about 12% of the water both times.

We use New Life Spectrum Optimum flakes and New Life Spectrum (Chichlid) fish pellets.
I think that is everything that is relevant to this problem.


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

Why are you using ro/di water? It could be a problem with adding back in the lake salt and other buffers.

So you have done two water changes(12%) over a 3 month period and you have 50 fish total in a 120g? I just want to make sure I know exactly what set up you have and your maintenance routine.

If you can answer these questions we will be able to give better advice.


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## Ronzil (Mar 31, 2012)

1. The PH was running about 6.6. The Seachem Chichlid Lake Salt I thought would raise the ph but it didn't. I had to add 80 pounds of Aragonite to raise the ph and to buffer the water ph is now a steady 7.6.

2. I had understood originally that RO/DO water was best for the aquarium but I guess I didn't see any recommendations relative to cichlids. As a result of a couple of ? from thoughs that had answered my request I continued my research and realized that cichlids actually enjoy more of a harder water. Unfortunately, I don't have a test kit for water hardness so I don't know where it is running. Again I thought that the Seachem Lake Salt would give me the ideal cichlid water chemistry.

3. Fish appear healthy, fins are more open they swim all over and they are generally more active.

4. I would like to thank thoughs that had responded to my request for help.


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## lilcountrygal (Dec 27, 2011)

I'm no expert, but I dont think your problem is solved. Just because they're doing okay now doesnt mean they'll be the same next week. You should really buy a test kit for hardness as it can cause swings in your pH. You should also figure out exactly what types of fish you have... take some pictures and post for ID. With that many fish in that size tank, Id also up your water change schedule quite a bit.

I currently have a little over 20 in my 55, some of whom are awaiting my 125 to be cycled. I do 50% water changes every 3-4 days. Id suggest if you want to keep that amount of fish in your 120 to do about the same....


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