# Ammonia Stuck at .25 PPM?



## Ben_dover (Feb 11, 2014)

I'm new to the site and I don't know how to search for similar questions so first question would be how do i search for similar questions? (sorry for being a scrub XD )

I have been having issues with my Ammonia, its been stuck at .25ppm for the last 2 weeks while my nitrites and nitrates have been at 0.
I do weekly 30% water changes and treat my water with prime, my tank has been set up since early dec 2013. I finished my cycle about a month ago and just a few minutes ago I lost a fish ( a Albino Firefin/Dragonblood) he was my favorite fish to just look at and appreciate (sounds lame I know).
I have no idea what killed him, his body was flawless, no scars, abnormal stomach or anything. There's only a few reasons why I suspect he died.

1. He was bullied to death, although he wasnt the most picked on fish he had a very very slight tail fin nip. He died under a rock which belongs to the alpha male of my tank.

2. The .25ppm ammonia killed him

3. He wasn't eating much and idk why, he would only eat once out of 3 days

Idk why he died but it worries me because i have 33 other African cichlids to attend to.
I feed my fish once a day (Hikari Green African Cichlid Excel) as much as they can eat in 30 seconds, Change 30% of the water weekly, always use seachem prime to treat the water, the waters always at 82 degrees Fahrenheit, 150 gallon tank, 1000GPH filter total. Ammonia .25ppm nitrites 0ppm nitrates 0ppm. Out the tap water ammonia .25 ppm 0nitrites 0 nitrates


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## trader_sam (Mar 2, 2014)

you certainly shoot for 0-ppm on ammonia, but .25 shouldn't kill them.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

If there's chloramine in your tap water, you will see an ammonia reading within 24-36 hours of a water change. Usually this is gone after a day or so as it has been consumed by the ammonia oxidizing bacteria. Because you're getting a reading from your tap, my guess is that this is why you're seeing it in your tank, unless you're readings are more than 36 hours following the water change of course.
Keep an eye on your fish for any non eaters. If you're concerned with aggression issues, you may want to post your stock list in the Malawi section for some feedback.
Why you're seeing 0ppm nitrate is quite odd. Normally this only occurs in very lightly stocked tanks or in heavily planted tanks.


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## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

Are you using API test kits? Are you doing the Nitrate test properly? (Shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds, mix, then shake test tube for 60 seconds)?


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## Ben_dover (Feb 11, 2014)

GTZ said:


> If there's chloramine in your tap water, you will see an ammonia reading within 24-36 hours of a water change. Usually this is gone after a day or so as it has been consumed by the ammonia oxidizing bacteria. Because you're getting a reading from your tap, my guess is that this is why you're seeing it in your tank, unless you're readings are more than 36 hours following the water change of course.
> Keep an eye on your fish for any non eaters. If you're concerned with aggression issues, you may want to post your stock list in the Malawi section for some feedback.
> Why you're seeing 0ppm nitrate is quite odd. Normally this only occurs in very lightly stocked tanks or in heavily planted tanks.


I usually don't keep track of when I test but in this circumstance I definitely do know I tested 5 days after my water change since I always do my water changes on sundays. I don't have single live plant in my tank but I have a ton of slate rock with algae growing on it, I scrape the algae off the glass every week but not the rocks because I like the way it looks. I don't get why my nitrates are at 0ppm all the time unless its due to my abundance of algae. My cichlids in my 150g are all still between 1.5"-3.5" long maybe the bioload isnt heavy enough yet? I'm not sure why my nitrates are so low but I appreaciatte the help GTZ, you have been a great help since I joined!


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## Ben_dover (Feb 11, 2014)

pablo111 said:


> Are you using API test kits? Are you doing the Nitrate test properly? (Shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds, mix, then shake test tube for 60 seconds)?


I honestly haven't tried shaking the bottle, thank you for the advice! 
I do shake the test tube for about 30 seconds but never the bottle and I am using the API test kit, I will try this ASAP and get back to you guys with my results!


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## Ben_dover (Feb 11, 2014)

Ben_dover said:


> pablo111 said:
> 
> 
> > Are you using API test kits? Are you doing the Nitrate test properly? (Shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds, mix, then shake test tube for 60 seconds)?
> ...


So I did exactly what you said and mixed test No2 and the test tube for 60 seconds, I even cleaned out the test tube with dechlorinated water and dried to well. 
The nitrate test came out to 5PPM, but I have a feeling it would've came out at 0PPM again if wasn't for the fact that I'm almost 3 days late on my weekly water change. Idk what to do, I have no idea why my nitrates are so low, my only guess is that maybe it due to all my algae or over kill on filter media?


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## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

I don't know but just to clarify, you shake bottle 1 for a few seconds, add it to the test tube, then you shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds, really vigorously, then add it to the test tube, then you shake the test tube vigorously for 60 seconds. If you're doing it right, you should have a higher nitrate reading. Could be a defective test solution issue too. 
I'd try going to an LFS that tests water and ask them to check the nitrate. Or see if they'll let you do it yourself and follow the same steps and see if you get a different result.


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## Ben_dover (Feb 11, 2014)

pablo111 said:


> I don't know but just to clarify, you shake bottle 1 for a few seconds, add it to the test tube, then you shake bottle 2 for 30 seconds, really vigorously, then add it to the test tube, then you shake the test tube vigorously for 60 seconds. If you're doing it right, you should have a higher nitrate reading. Could be a defective test solution issue too.
> I'd try going to an LFS that tests water and ask them to check the nitrate. Or see if they'll let you do it yourself and follow the same steps and see if you get a different result.


Yup I did exactly what you said and I tried again today with the same result 5ppm-10ppm now that I am 4 days late on my weekly water change. Yeah you're right, I'm going to get the water tested at a different source asap because this is a really weird issue and I have a feeling I got a faulty test kit. Thank you for the help I really appreciate it!


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## Ben_dover (Feb 11, 2014)

Well I found out why my ammonia was stuck at .25ppm. It turns out about after an hour or more of letting the test sit the results changed to 0ppm and my nitrates switched to about 10-20ppm after about 3 hours of letting it sit


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## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

Ben_dover said:


> Well I found out why my ammonia was stuck at .25ppm. It turns out about after an hour or more of letting the test sit the results changed to 0ppm and my nitrates switched to about 10-20ppm after about 3 hours of letting it sit


This means nothing. The reagents in the test kit are designed to give the correct reading at a particular length of time. PH is meant to be read instantly. Nitrate is meant to be read at exactly 5 minutes, etc etc. The fact that the test looks different after sitting on a shelf for three hours means nothing. :fish:


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I agree with Pablo on all points.

Try testing some bottled water for ammonia and compare to your tank water. This will determine if you actually have ammonia in your tank.

I have read on this forum that if you perform the nitrate test incorrectly several times(not shaking the bottles) then your solution(s) are shot and need to be replaced.


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## Austinite (Jul 27, 2013)

I would get a new test for starters. API Master Kit, no strips. And then the shaking of Nitrate bottle #2 is literally 30 seconds, I mean, I count it down, 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3 Mississippi, it feels like a really long time to shake it. That's the only way to know you are getting a truly accurate reading. I don't trust a LFS reading at all.


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