# Triple Stack 800 Breeding Rack - Tank(s) Build



## auratum

While I would love to build a monster tank like TFG, I thought it best to start a little smaller for my first build.

The plan:

3 tanks, 8 ft long stacked in a rack. Bottom tank will be roughly 48"x96"x24" (~450 gal), the middle tank will be 36"x96"x16" (~220 gal), and the top will be 24"x96"x16" (~140 gal). Each tank will be set up to easily install dividers to allow each of the three tank to be divided into 4 smaller tanks when needed.

Why:

I have been wanting to set up additional tanks for breeding various color forms of Jack Dempsey's along with a few other fish. This seemed like a good way to put together a fairly compact system with space large enough for several breeders and space for growing out fry.

Construction:

The plan is to build the tank out of plywood (3/4") and sealed with epoxy fiberglass (seems like the tried and true method) and glued (silicone) in panes of glass into front cut-outs. The reason for different size tanks was to allow better access with minimum vertical clearance between tanks.

Filtration:

Plan is for a central filter system much like what TFG has done, but using the bottom tank as a sump.

Heating:

Want to do the hydronic system - looks like the way to go.

Conceptual Drawings:

Side view showing supports:









Front view:









More to come...

Thanks for looking!

Patrick


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## Seanboy

Wow! Looks like an ambitious project. I assume you are doing this in a basement.

What is the ceiling height?

Will each tank be its own unit?

Will the whole thing be a single entity?


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## auratum

Seanboy said:


> Wow! Looks like an ambitious project. I assume you are doing this in a basement.


Yes - in the basement.



Seanboy said:


> What is the ceiling height?


9' ceilings in the basement, but it will be tall and I will need a small step ladder to access the top tank. The wife was concerned about me taking over the whole storage room with tanks, so I am replacing my 3 stacked 20 gallons with this.



Seanboy said:


> Will each tank be its own unit?


Each tank will be its own unit - separately built and sealed.



Seanboy said:


> Will the whole thing be a single entity?


Not sure exactly what you are asking but I will try to guess...

The framing is all one and tied together. There is an 8" gap from the top of one tank to the bottom of the framing for the one above it.

The filtration will all be tied together. The pump will move water from the bottom tank to the top two tanks and the top two tanks will overflow back to the bottom tank.

I have the framing components all cut and some of the pieces built up. I am currently painting the framing wood to preserve and pretty up the framing. I hope to assemble the frame by next weekend and then I will need to go get the plywood for the tanks themselves. I will be posting pics as I go - need to dump them off the camera...

Thanks for looking!

Patrick


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## Seanboy

Sorry. That question did sound a little weird. But you answered it.
You're lucky to have a nine foot basement.
Good Luck


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## auratum

Thank you! I am excited to be doing this. I had already had my wife agree to a big tank in the wall, but I slipped this one in as a warm-up project to the bigger tank.


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## klumsyninja

Are you going to be adding a sump to this system?


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## auratum

klumsyninja said:


> Are you going to be adding a sump to this system?


The bottom tank will be the sump (at least a portion of it).


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## klumsyninja

will you have walk around access to the whole thing? (back and sides?)

I think it will be very hard to get fish out of the bottom tank if its 4 feet deep (assuming i understand your plans correctly) front to back.


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## auratum

klumsyninja said:


> will you have walk around access to the whole thing? (back and sides?)
> 
> I think it will be very hard to get fish out of the bottom tank if its 4 feet deep (assuming i understand your plans correctly) front to back.


Somewhat limited access to the back, but full access to the front. The supports on the ends will limit access on the ends. I understand this is not perfect from an access perspective...


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## auratum

Very brief update:

Here are some early pics of the project.

Here is the space where the tanks will go:









Here is a pic of some of the lumber where I have started laminating the 2x4's. The plan is to build this with a "post & beam" type construction where the posts are 3 - 2x4's and the beams are also 3 - 2x4's (or 2x6) but they are notched to allow interlocking of the lumber.


















I built all these posts & beams by gluing & screwing the 2x4's (or 2x6's) together to make the equivalent of 4x6 posts or beams. I am in the process of painting these main support pieces prior to assembling them. The 2x6's are used as the very outside board for these "beams" for the middle and top tanks. The bottom tank will just sit on a 2x4 frame that sits directly on the concrete basement floor. The bottom tank support will be screwed to the "posts" used to support the upper tanks to tie everything together.

Thanks for looking!
Patrick


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## Mcdaphnia

It looks like some treated lumber there on the bottom. Is it? Treated wood is not supposed to be used inside.


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## auratum

Mcdaphnia said:


> It looks like some treated lumber there on the bottom. Is it? Treated wood is not supposed to be used inside.


The very bottom 2x4 supports for the bottom tank is treated as it will sit directly on the concrete and likely be exposed to more moisture. My plan is to paint this was well before the putting it all together.

Why is it not supposed to be used inside? Didn't know there was a law against that.

The stuff you buy now doesn't have arsenic in it any more...


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## venustus19

looks like this will be an interseting build... hope all goes well for you...

i've never built any of my designed multiple tank stands, but when i did design them, i always gave myself 12" of head room from the top of one tank to the bottom 2x4 of the shelf above... 8", if i read correctly, might be a tigh squeeze to get in there if for any reason you might have too... jsut my 2 cents...

looks very cool, can't wait to get a bigger house to build me a "dream tank" someday.


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## Mcdaphnia

auratum said:


> Why is it not supposed to be used inside? Didn't know there was a law against that.
> 
> The stuff you buy now doesn't have arsenic in it any more...


Arsenic has been replaced with toxins that are more mobile. Depending on what they are made with, they may give off toxic fumes or leach out the toxic chemicals. Some places do have building codes proscribing the use of treated lumber indoors, but there is no federal law. You don't use it inside because you don't want your pets and houseplants to die or get sick.


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## con-man-dan

check the MSDS labels on the wood if they are available. it IS a Federal law to use ANY product available in anyway that conflicts with its label. If the label says do not use inside, using inside breaks that Federal Law. I deal with pesticides for work, they are extremely strict on this stuff. Granted the odds of you getting in trouble are slim, just lettin ya guys know ANY chemical thats not used in accordance of its label, is breaking the law


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## auratum

con-man-dan said:


> check the MSDS labels on the wood if they are available. it IS a Federal law to use ANY product available in anyway that conflicts with its label. If the label says do not use inside, using inside breaks that Federal Law. I deal with pesticides for work, they are extremely strict on this stuff. Granted the odds of you getting in trouble are slim, just lettin ya guys know ANY chemical thats not used in accordance of its label, is breaking the law


Thank you. I understand these laws about using stuff consistent with it's labeling. The labeling is set-up to protect the producer from liability if the product is used inappropriately and ends up causing property damage/loss or causing an injury or death. I am a chemical plant manager (went to school as a chemical engineer) where we make pesticides - I live this stuff. If I were building this to sell to some else then that could possibly be an issue, but this is more me, it is only the bottom supports under the tank where I used this wood. It is getting pretty bad if I will have someone come and arrest me for using the wrong kind of wood on a project in my basement for an aquarium project. I suppose it is the same people that will come and arrest me for taking the tags off my matress! :lol:

So am I breaking the law by painting the support lumber with exterior grade house paint? I am putting this up inside - I don't intend to move it outside.

Thank you for your concern and sorry if I am getting too sarcastic. I understand people bring these things up because they are concerned about me, my kids, or my fish. I appreciate you taking the time to voice these concerns.

Thanks for looking!
Patrick


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## danielratti

You must work at one of the Dow Plants in Midland huh?


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## auratum

danielratti said:


> You must work at one of the Dow Plants in Midland huh?


Perhaps...


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## con-man-dan

well thank you very much for producing the chemicals that I apply LOL!


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## danielratti

yeah way to have a Hydrochloric acid leak last week. No big deal I use to work out there too. Its not really my cup of tea. I live like 10 min from midland.


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## mddjr5

venustus19 said:


> i've never built any of my designed multiple tank stands, but when i did design them, i always gave myself 12" of head room from the top of one tank to the bottom 2x4 of the shelf above... 8", if i read correctly, might be a tigh squeeze to get in there if for any reason you might have too... jsut my 2 cents...quote]
> 
> 12" of head room would be nice, but since you still have access to a a large portion of the tank with unlimited head room, it looks like the 8" will probably work well still.


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## auratum

con-man-dan said:


> well thank you very much for producing the chemicals that I apply LOL!


You are welcome! Someone needs to pay someone to do this...



danielratti said:


> yeah way to have a Hydrochloric acid leak last week. No big deal I use to work out there too. Its not really my cup of tea. I live like 10 min from midland.


That is interesting - I can't find albuquerque anywhere on the map in MI. You know it was completely my fault for that leak - I single handedly caused it - yeah... And it would be nice if the local news bothered to get the facts right before they break the "big story". Like which company had the leak - it wasn't the one I work for.



mddjr5 said:


> venustus19 said:
> 
> 
> 
> i've never built any of my designed multiple tank stands, but when i did design them, i always gave myself 12" of head room from the top of one tank to the bottom 2x4 of the shelf above... 8", if i read correctly, might be a tigh squeeze to get in there if for any reason you might have too... jsut my 2 cents...
> 
> 
> 
> 12" of head room would be nice, but since you still have access to a a large portion of the tank with unlimited head room, it looks like the 8" will probably work well still.
Click to expand...

mddjr5 - thanks for the support! We have talked through this 6 different ways...
8" isn't exactly ideal, but it is the best I can do with the space I am working with. If I had a few more feet of room depth, I could have gone with just 2 tanks 2'x4'x8' - (450 gallons) for a total of 900 gallons, but that would not work for my space. Also - this way I get a few more square ft of area which is the key for breeding and raising fry. The idea is that the tanks will be lined up so that the side with the glass will all be aligned from top to bottom and the backs will be off-set. This will allow 8" only from the front, but from the back, I can access the first 12" directly and the gap is actually bigger than just 8" due to the angled access. I will do another post to better explain...

I got lots of painting done this weekend. About 1/2 hour more and then time to assemble the "rack".

Thanks for looking!

Patrick


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## auratum

Brief update.

The support wood is painted and partly assembled.










Progress is slow due to another project that is in full force - the pool deck.










As to the clearance between tanks - here is the small stack I currently have running with 3 - 20 longs.









The spacing between these is 6" to 7" and there is also a light taking up part of the space. I understand that the tanks I am building are much bigger and access even more critical, but I am compromising access for larger tanks...

Thanks for looking.
Patrick


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## scottiefish

looks like you got your hands full. did the snow slow you down?


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## auratum

scottiefish said:


> looks like you got your hands full. did the snow slow you down?


Not as much as rain would have. Got the deck on about 2/3 of this today...


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## gmaschke

Ok now get that pool up and running so we can get some updates on the racks and tanks :thumb:


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## auratum

gmaschke said:


> Ok now get that pool up and running so we can get some updates on the racks and tanks :thumb:


Got the rest of the framing done and most of the deck boards on. Then comes the rail and the stairs...

Here is an update before the work this weekend:


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## illy-d

You have a wicked huge back yard that I am envious of!!!


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## auratum

illy-d said:


> You have a wicked huge back yard that I am envious of!!!


The whole yard is 1/2 acre - not huge, but enough to satisfy this farm boy living in the city...

Thanks!

Patrick


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## gmaschke

How you gonna heat that to keep it warm enough in the winter for some peacocks and haps?


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## sleepy09

> How you gonna heat that to keep it warm enough in the winter for some peacocks and haps?


 :lol: :lol: ROTFLMBO


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## auratum

gmaschke said:


> How you gonna heat that to keep it warm enough in the winter for some peacocks and haps?


That would be awesome!!! :thumb:


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## padlock 08

what happened to this? did you finish the rack?

Thanks, Paul


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## auratum

Just finished the pool deck.

The rack is roughly assembled, but I need to tweek it to get everything level as some of the wood warped as I was building it. I have all the plywood, so as soon as the rack is done I will start on the tank shells.


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## padlock 08

thanks, will you keep us updated, I quite like this idea and look forward to seeing how it turns out

-Paul


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## tripn

:-? :-? opcorn:


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## Toby_H

Patrick, you are flippin crazy! The good kind of crazy though  I guess I need to keep a better eye on the DIY folder, I missed this one until today.

I first say the staggered tank idea on Tedâ€™s Fishroom - http://www.tedsfishroom.com/wp/fishroom ... rium-racks

I used the approach on a stack 4 ten gal tanks one above the other. I only left myself 6â€


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## morfeus077

auratum said:


>


I like your plans and like that you're planning it out first even! I have a question for you.

How are you going to reach the top tank? Seems to be a 2' reach just to get to the front of the top tank, much less the bottom or back of it. Imagine standing 3' off the ground on a ladder and trying to reach out to 4' from there with a net... If you're open to suggestions, I would suggest a mock up with a ladder to check the reach. Please wear pads & helmet and have someone help you if you start to fall :lol:

If you plan on breeding, you're going to be in the tank with a net and you will probably be in it often. I would do a mock up to see if it's practical and resume/modify plans as needed.

Perhaps one of those library ladders that slope and ride along a rail? If that, what about the junk on the bottom of your shoes while you're standing over the bottom tank - the fish will eat what ever falls in the water.


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## auratum

Wow! Lots of replies on this!

Quick update.

Deck is completely finished with all lattice work - wife is very pleased! 

Tank stand still needs tweaking to get the top tier level - I have been dragging my feet on this as it is going to be a pain, but need to get to it. Got the plywood for the tank panels in the basement.

Lots of other delays due to summer activities (softball, golf, family, vacation, house guests for several weeks, playing in the garden, oh and work).

Toby - thanks for the encouragement man! The plan has been to plumb them all together as you have suggested. Need to work on the wife about a pond - I have been planting seeds all summer on this idea.

morfeus077 - I will be able to get to the top tank from both sides. This idea changed from having the stack flat side against the wall to having the flat side away from the wall. My plan is to build some supports so I can stand on top of the lower tank overhang from the back and also access the top tank from the front with a ladder.

Don't worry guys this thread is not dead...

Thanks for all the comments - this will help make this better in the end!!!

Patrick


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## morfeus077

auratum said:


> morfeus077 - I will be able to get to the top tank from both sides. This idea changed...


 :thumb:


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## Toby_H

auratum said:


> I will be able to get to the top tank from both sides. This idea changed from having the stack flat side against the wall to having the flat side away from the wall. My plan is to build some supports so I can stand on top of the lower tank overhang from the back and also access the top tank from the front with a ladder.


The top tank from both sides with a ladder is great... I agree reaching 2' in front of you to get to the front of a 2' (front to back) tank would be asking a bit much... Especially with you and a buddy after a couple of drinks using a step stool on a wet floor trying to see babiesâ€¦.

You have the stand assembled and in front of you, so you can feel this part out far better than we can...

But since you have little clearance between the bottom and second tank... If you put the flat side away from the wall... and the second tank is 3' front to back... Will this allow enough access to the bottom tank?

Is there any way possible this room would allow the tank to sit 2' away from the wall? step each shelf back 6" both front and back?... then put a permanent divider in the center (left to right) on the bottom and possibly the second tank?

I love the idea... great method of maximizing available space with an impressive array of tank sizes all in one system... I'm just a bit concerned of the practicality which may in the long run reduce your utilization of all your options... I'd hate to see the 4' x 4' center end up one huge sump that isn't really needed just because you can't gain decent access to that area...


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## auratum

Toby_H said:


> But since you have little clearance between the bottom and second tank... If you put the flat side away from the wall... and the second tank is 3' front to back... Will this allow enough access to the bottom tank?
> 
> Is there any way possible this room would allow the tank to sit 2' away from the wall? step each shelf back 6" both front and back?... then put a permanent divider in the center (left to right) on the bottom and possibly the second tank?
> 
> I love the idea... great method of maximizing available space with an impressive array of tank sizes all in one system... I'm just a bit concerned of the practicality which may in the long run reduce your utilization of all your options... I'd hate to see the 4' x 4' center end up one huge sump that isn't really needed just because you can't gain decent access to that area...


The area where this is located is a bit limited on space as it will get in the way of access to a storage area if I let it get too far from the wall. The plan is to have 12" clearance from the bottom tank to the wall - this is tight, but it is what I have to work with.

As for dividers - my plan is to set each of the 3 tanks up so that they can be divided into 4 equal parts - so this will be the equivalent of 12 tanks. One of the 1/4 sections in the bottom tank will be cut in half to house the pump.

Thank you for the comments!
Patrick


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## auratum

Getting back on track with this project. As stated previously, the frame is done. I got distracted with a pool deck project in the early stages, but am getting back on track. The plywood is cut to size for the three tanks with the opening cut for where the glass will go and the holes for the bulk heads are cut. Next step is to predrill for screws, then put on a seal coat of epoxy to all pieces prior to assembly. I then plan to screw it together and begin fiberglassing. When the tanks shells are assembled I will snap some photos and post.

Thanks for looking!
Patrick


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## kingdave

Mcdaphnia said:


> It looks like some treated lumber there on the bottom. Is it? Treated wood is not supposed to be used inside.


As a residential architect I can assure you that treated lumber is actually REQUIRED whenever framing is in contact with concrete or masonry since concrete has a tendency to transmit moisture to framing members, thus, the treated lumber at the bottom of your stand is a good idea... Just don't go licking the wood and you'll be fine.


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## mddjr5

kingdave said:


> Mcdaphnia said:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like some treated lumber there on the bottom. Is it? Treated wood is not supposed to be used inside.
> 
> 
> 
> As a residential architect I can assure you that treated lumber is actually REQUIRED whenever framing is in contact with concrete or masonry since concrete has a tendency to transmit moisture to framing members, thus, the treated lumber at the bottom of your stand is a good idea... Just don't go licking the wood and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

We are currently building a house and have just added some interior basement walls. Just as kingdave said, all boards in contact with the floor have to be treated lumber.

It's looking good! Hopefully over Christmas/New Years you can get some more work done!


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## auratum

I have made some progress. All three tanks have been assembled.




























Next step is to take each tank back apart - yes, I said take them back apart. I am going to seal all sides of each piece with one coat of epoxy, then glue and screw them all together, and then fiberglass each tank. I got the needed fiberglass cloth as a Christmas present from my awesome wife! Also received the pigment for the epoxy (dark blue) that I will be using on one coat inside the tank.

You can see the cut out panels in the front - once fiberglassing is complete, I will silicone in panes of glass. The holes in the back are for the bulk heads. If it isn't obvious, the plan is to be able to section each tank off into 4 sections as needed.

Thanks for looking!
Patrick


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## Bweb

Are you going to reinforce the front where the glass cut outs are or put a full piece of glass on the inside.

The project looks great I'm just not sure the front panels will hold back the water pressure without blowing out.

Not being critical just my 2cents It will be great when you get those babies filled up.

Edit never mind I see how you have it drilled looks like your putting dividers in good job.


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## auratum

Bweb said:


> Are you going to reinforce the front where the glass cut outs are or put a full piece of glass on the inside.
> 
> The project looks great I'm just not sure the front panels will hold back the water pressure without blowing out.


The fiberglass will reinforce to some degree. I will also be bracing every 2 feet (at the brace between the glass panes) from front to back on top of the tank. This is the same location where the removable dividers will go also.


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## newfisher

I may have missed something, but I don't see any benefit in taking the tanks apart to coat the pieces in epoxy. The problem is that once epoxy has set, it should be sanded to roughen it up for a good bond for the resin (epoxy, I assume) when you lay up the fibreglass. Otherwise, the fibreglass could delaminate over time.

If you haven't glued them together yet (which I assume is the case since you plan to take them apart), then go ahead and take them apart to glue them up (slightly thickened epoxy would work great). Then once they're all glued up, brush on the epoxy (clear, unthickened) and lay the fibreglass into that first coat of wet epoxy. Once tacky, brush on your second coat of pigmented epoxy. That way, you will end up using less epoxy overall, and greatly reduce the amount of work (no sanding needed). Before laying the fibreglass, don't forget to fillet the inside corners with epoxy-glass bubble mix. Otherwise, you're very likely to end up with air bubbles under the fibreglass at the corners (not a good thing!). The fillets will help the fibreglass make the transition at the corners and will help structurally by better distributing stresses at inside the corners.

If you want to seal the exterior of the tanks, then simply brush epoxy on the exterior after you're done the insides.

Good work so far, and good luck getting them done.


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## newfisher

Oops, forgot to add ...

When laying the fibreglass, simply do so over the holes, and cut them out with a sharp utility knife after the epoxy has cured to a non-sticky, rubbery state (you could wait until it sets hard, but that would require more effort to cut out).


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## auratum

newfisher - thanks for the advice. I appreciate this as this is my first time using epoxy and fiberglassing. The reason I wanted to take them apart and epoxy coat each piece was to ensure each piece was sealed well. With it being plywood, I wanted to ensure it is completely water sealed so they can't absorb water and start to delaminate. From your advice, it looks like I can do both without wasting a step. As you suggested, I can glue them with epoxy which will coat the surfaces (plywood panel end grain) that I was most worried about and that I can't do later.

Thank you again for the sound advice!
Patrick


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## newfisher

Glad to help, Patrick.

Fibreglass/epoxy work can be a bit daunting the first few times. Might I offer the following suggestions? These assume that you are using a laminating type (low viscosity) epoxy with about 30 minute "pot life" (which in reality is probably only 15 minutes!!).

1. Mix the epoxy in small batches, and mix extremely well. Rule of thumb: mix at least 1 minute per ~3 oz batch (minimum 2 minutes for ~6 oz batch) at as fast a rate as possible without introducing excessive amounts of air into the resin.

2. Once mixed, time is against you, so when mixing any amount of epoxy greater than ~3 oz, dump the contents of the pot onto the bottom of the tanks to ~1/8 inch thick. That will prevent the epoxy from going exothermic and will greatly increase your working time. Then use a brush or squeegee to move the epoxy around from there.

However, before doing 1 and/or 2:

a. Lay the fibreglass on the bottom of the tank, folding it away from the inside bottom corners. Then practice fitting the glass dry, running it up the sides and vertical corners ... making relief cuts as necessary for wrinkle-free fit at the corners, while allowing for good (at least 1.5 inch) overlap at the corners. Then fold back up onto the bottom and away from the botton corners. Try not to stretch the fibreglass weave in the process.

b. Mix a ~3 oz batch and once fully mixed, add glass-bubbles to thicken it to consistency of thick peanut butter for making material for fillets at inside corners. Spread the epoxy paste with something like a tongue depressor (these also make great disposable mixing sticks).

c. Carefully unfold-fair the fibreglass across the bottom of the tank and gently press into the wet fillet material. Leave the glass folded on the bottom.

3. Then mix a batch of epoxy and dump the contents of the pot onto the bottom of the tank. Gravity and the brush or squeegee will "work" the epoxy down through the glass and into the bottom's plywood surface.

4. Use a brush to "paint" the raw plywood on the sides of the tank with epoxy, supplied either from the pot or from the epoxy pooled at the bottom of the tank if you have dumped the pot.

5. Once all sides have been "painted", gently fair the fibreglass up the sides (without moving any of the glass on the bottom ... use a gentle touch) into the wet epoxy, which will hold the glass in place on the sides. Aim to have the glass extend 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the top edge of the tank sides (no more than 1/2 inch, otherwise it will want to fall back to the bottom). Use sharp scissors if necessary to trim.

6. Work epoxy around the bottom and up the sides until the fibreglass is fully transparent and there are no air bubbles beneath the glass. Brush using a stippling action, or use a squeegee with a gentle touch so as to not "pull" the fibreglass. Wet the fibreglass up to just above the upper edge of the sides, making sure that at least ~1/8 inch of the glass above the sides is wet. This will ensure a good seal right to the top, and will aid in trimming the fibreglass later. When spreading the epoxy, aim to have only enough so that the weave of the wet fibreglass is just visible when looking at it with a light held at a low angle. More epoxy is a waste at this stage of the game, but the fibreglass must be wet.

7. You may need to apply small "patches" of fibreglass at the tank corners to ensure proper strength and sealing.

8. Allow the layup to cure to become tacky (fingers should stick without needing to apply pressure, but you should be able to "skim" your fingers quickly over it with just a bit of a sticky feel. That will ensure that the glass is not going to lift off the sides. Then apply your tinted coat of epoxy over the tacky surface. If a third coat is needed (for colour coverage), apply it with the second coat still tacky. Applying coats "wet over wet" will give a "chemical" bond between coats of epoxy, and you will not need to do any sanding except for the very last coat, to remove any glass fibres that may have lifted.

9. When the two or three coats of epoxy cure to a rubbery stage, trim the excess fibreglass at the upper edges and trim out holes with a sharp utility knife. Waiting longer will mean a harder cure and more work trimming. Then wait until all cures hard (a couple of days) and finish trim with sand paper on a wood block.

10. Be sure to wear latex gloves or equivalent when handling epoxy. Acetone is perhaps the best clean up solvent for tools. Plan to discard brushes. Should you get any epoxy on bare skin, avoid the temptation to mop up with solvents ... they'll only work the epoxy into your skin further. Instead, wipe with dry paper towels and use soap and water. However, I have flooded skin with acetone and immediately wiped dry without rubbing when stuck on a job away from a sink.

The trick to doing a fibreglass job well is to remain calm throughout the layup process. Follow the steps above and you will avoid a costly sticky mess full of air bubbles and tears. Give yourself lots of time (3 to 6 hours for 2 or 3 coats of epoxy), and have a cold beer waiting for you in the fridge for when you're done.

With fibreglass, practice makes perfect. Your first tank will likely not be perfect, but it will likely be good enough. Your results on the last tank will make you wish it were your first.

For a bit of practice with inexpensive materials before tackling your first tank, you may wish to consider using cheep cotton fabric or tough paper towel and slightly thinned corn syrup to line the inside of a small cardboard box. That will get you accustomed to working wrinkles out of fragile materials in proximity to sticky stuff!! Practice doing corners, as they're usually the most difficult to do well.

Sorry about the long post, just wanting to help ... I remember my first struggles, without instruction, which have taught me "how not to do it".


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## auratum

newfisher said:


> Sorry about the long post, just wanting to help ...


Don't be sorry! I am very thankful for the advice!

I have a couple of questions...

1) Is there any reason to not leave the fiberglass a little longer and wrap it around the top edge of the wood? I have rounded the top edge of the wood panels with a router, so there are no sharp corners.

2) I have both cloth and 5" glass tape. My intent was to tape all the corners first for extra strength at the joints (after filling them with fillet). I was also planning on using the tape for the inside of the front panel as the wood is only about 3" wide around all the holes I cut for the glass.

3) I didn't get glass beads, but rather a material called "Easy Fill" which is a cellulose (wood) powder that was suggested to be easier to work with than other filler material. I trust this material will work just as good as glass beads?

Thanks!
Patrick


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## newfisher

Hi Patrick,

1. Depending on the weave type and weight of the fibreglass, it may or may not easily wrap around the sharp radius of the upper edges. If it's regular weave and anything above about 6 oz glass, then it may not wrap easily. Therefore, one or more of the following may be possible options:

a) You can try wrapping it around using standard epoxy mix. It may work. Butt if it does not work, then simply leave it as is on the top (trim with scissors to avoid catching it or having it drop under its own weight), and wet the overhanging glass so you can trim the excess off later after it has cured to a rubbery state.

b) Apply epoxy that has been thickened with fumed silica (to about the consistency of mayonnaise) to the top edges and about 1 inch down on either surface of the sides. Fumed silica is a powder that is flame-formed, resulting in "snowflake" kinda' looking branches under the microscope. It has has a strong thickening effect and will cause the fibreglass to stick much better to the wood than when using straight epoxy or epoxy thickened with any other material. You may be able to wrap the glass up the inside and around the upper edge, but it may still want to create air gaps beneath the glass at the top.

c) Apply fumed silica thickened epoxy as for b) above, but wrap a narrow (3 to 4 inch wide) strip of glass (tape if the edges are not selvedged, or strips cut from sheet fabric) over the upper edge, then bring the main piece of glass up the inside and over the narrow strip, leaving it as in a) above and trimming when cured. Because it is narrow, the weave in the strip will more easily "give", better taking the shape of the upper edge.

2. Using tape at the corners will improve strength and sealing and is a good idea. However, if the tape has selvedged edges, the slight bump of the selvedge may cause air gaps beneath any glass that you lay over top of the tape. Therefore, it would be better to lay the tape over the main sheet fabric. Using tape around the front would work fine, as long as selvedge does not cause air gaps. If it does, then smearing a bit of thickened epoxy (fumed silica or any other thickener) over the selvedge edge will help overlapping glass lay flat and without air gaps.

By the way, when laying the glass up the inside corners (either overlapping the relief cut edges, or when placing tape), do one side, wet it, then lay the glass from the other side into the wet surface (or lay the tape onto wet glass). Do not try to wet through two layers of glass ... it can be done, but it will be a struggle.

3. Wood flour (very fine pine of maple dust are commonly used) will work just as well as glass bubbles for creating fillet material. In fact, wood flour wets out a bit better in epoxy than glass bubbles do. But beware when mixing either glass bubbles or wood flour ... add a bit at a time and never so much that the epoxy looses its "gloss". Try to "creep" up to the right amount ... adding too much of either filler will cause the fillet material to crumble when being applied (you really want a paste), produce a weaker finished product, and possibly leave air gaps. In this regard, when mixing in the filler powder, I find that wood flour is slightly less forgiving then glass bubbles. Keep track of roughly how much powder you add to epoxy (I would work with ~3 oz batches of epoxy maximum for making filler) the first time, so you can more quickly judge how much to use the next time.

Wood flour will not work as well as fumed silica for helping you around the upper edges of the sides.

When needing to mix only a small amount of filler material (such as when making up for a tiny shortfall of material to finish up after making and applying your main batch at the corners, or when needing to smear a bit over selvedge), simply mix a "regular" batch of epoxy, dump what you will not need for filler onto the bottom of the tank, and mix filler powder into what remains in the pot. You should have plenty of time to finish mixing the filler and applying it and still return to the epoxy you dumped on the bottom. Alternatively, scrape up some of the epoxy that's already on the bottom, returning a bit to the pot, and use that to mix up a small batch of filler material.

Finally, just to be clear on what I mean by "squeegee" used to spread epoxy, I am referring to car bondo type applicators. You can pick these up at most auto repair supply shops or where you purchase fibreglass and resins. You can also make squeegees by cutting up plastic bleach bottles, etc. But you want an absolutely smooth surface to contact the fibreglass, otherwise the squeegee will pull on the glass. I normally use commercially available, soft plastic bondo-type applicators and do a quick "jointing" of the working edge before each use by passing a sharp block plane over the edge.


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## newfisher

Opps, in the last paragraph in my last post, I mean "joint" the squeegee before each layup job, not every use during a job.  When done with the squeegee, wipe is clean with dry paper towel, followed by paper towel soaked in acetone to remove all epoxy. Then it's ready for jointing for the next job (i.e. next tank, next batch of tanks?). I know some people who simply let the epoxy cure hard on the squeegee, then crack it off by bending the squeegee. But after a few uses, the sides of the squeegee get scratched and then the cured epoxy will not always come off, at which time the squeegee becomes garbage. I find using a bit of paper towel and acetone to be less costly than having to buy new squeegees.


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## auratum

Thanks newfisher! Very helpful information!

I am in the process of glueing the first tank together using epoxy. You suggested using thickened epoxy for this - why use thickened vs. not thickened? I want the epoxy to penetrate the edges of the plywood to ensure it is completely sealed besides the glueing action of holding the panels together. What is the advantage of using thickened epoxy?

Update on final tank dimensions:

Top tank is 94.5"x22.5"x16" = 147 gallons
Middle tank is 94.5"x34.5"x16" = 226 gallons
Bottom tank is 94.5"x46.5"x22" = 418 gallons

Total volume = 792 gallons when filled to the top. Likely working level will be 1" down so a working volume will be ~ 750 gallons not including water help up in the pipe.

Thanks!
Patrick


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## newfisher

auratum said:


> why use thickened vs. not thickened? I want the epoxy to penetrate the edges of the plywood to ensure it is completely sealed besides the glueing action of holding the panels together. What is the advantage of using thickened epoxy?


If you are using laminating epoxy (viscosity of 600 to 800 centipoise - about the consistency of table syrup) then it will not provide any gap filling ability, and due to the low viscosity, epoxy may seep back out of the joint before it has a chance to cure. If you thicken it to about the consistency of corn syrup or slightly thicker, then it will fill gaps and not run. Fumed silica is really the best to use here, but wood flour will work also. When thickened to this degree, you will still get sufficient penetration and sealing of the plywood edges. Apply epoxy to both surfaces being glued to ensure adequate amounts in the joint. A small plumber's flux application type brush is probably the best tool to use, and they're cheap enough for single time use.

To reduce epoxy going to trash, scrape and re-use any large amounts of squeeze-out for the next piece to be glued up, or collect the squeeze-out and mix it with filler to start your inner corner fillets. Use a smaller applicator, something like a popsicle stick instead of a tongue depressor, to spread this first, temporary fillet. Then let everything cure. If you work cleanly, you should not need to sand these "temporary starter" fillets. Then when its time to do your fibreglass layup, spread new filler over the existing smaller fillets to build them up to a proper radius and to "re-wet" the corners.

700+ gallons ... COOL! Looks like your "better half" is more generous with household real-estate than mine ... I'd probably be asked to discard a part of my shop or my office if I were to do a setup like yours! Note that I say probably ... I'm even be too scared to "ask" if I could do a similar product. :thumb:


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## auratum

Thanks newfisher!

I am using a laminating epoxy. It is a 2 part 2:1 mix. It is a standard cure, but I am working in my basement which is about 65F and it seems to have a working time of at least 30 min.

I have glued just one tank so far and did it without thickening. I can see where the thickening would help hold the epoxy in place. I have been mixing the epoxy in very small batches - only two so far as all I have been doing is glueing things together. Any extra I have used by mixing with some thickening and patching some rough spots in the plywood (knot holes and such). I have hit the right thickness yet for fillet material as it was still runnier than I wanted. I can see how you could go too thick though and make it too dry.

The glass cloth I have is an 8.7 oz twill weave - I debated a long time before I decided on this one - combination of price and weight. The tape is 7.5 oz, 5" wide, and has no edge to it - looks like it was just cut from larger width cloth.

My wife is understanding, but is not into fish. Her main concern is time it takes away from the family. The basement is pretty good size and I am building this in the "storage" room. It took a lot of persuation to convince her of this project - the hope is that this is phase one and phase two is a single large tank in the wall similar to what TFG built. Not sure if the second phase will happen, but this phase sure has been fun!

Thanks again!
Patrick


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## auratum

Saturday morning update:

I can definitely see the advantage of using thickened epoxy for glueing the panels together. What I thought seem to be set continued to run some and make a mess. This is a learning process.

I made some thickened material for the fillets and filled the corners on the 150 this morning. That went pretty well. I need to get some acetone and a squeegee before I head to the next step of actually laying up the glass.

I got pulled off the project about an hour ago by my boys to make pancakes - the normal Saturday morning routine...

Thanks for looking!
Patrick


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## newfisher

Hi Patrick,

The glass weights you have chosen are good. Tape without selvedge is also good ... I prefer it because it "gives" more when doing corners, curves, etc., since there's nothing to hold it "firm" at the edges. It is also less likely to form ridges at the edges, which can result in the formation of air gaps beneath anything laid over-top. However, tape without selvedge does tend to fray. Treat it gently and if it does fray, avoid the temptation to pull on threads or you'll just end up forming bumps or pulling the glass away from the substrate. Instead, snip the threads off with sharp scissors if the tape is still dry, and during layup, use a brush with a stippling action to work those pesty threads down into the epoxy.

If you've made your fillets and plan to return to do the glassing beyond one or two hours later, then you may need to let it all cure hard and sand away any bumps or ridges left behind before laying the glass. Otherwise, tiny bumps can cause air traps beneath the cloth. With or without the need for sanding, if the fillets have cured beyond "sticky", then I would run another quick application of paste over the existing fillets to "wet" and "smooth" them out and make a "sticky" surface for the glass to adhere to. It's always best to work wet on wet ... make your fillets just before you're ready to put the glass down over them and then immediately wet that down with epoxy while the fillets are still a bit malleable. Do the same for final coloured coats ... brush them down over still tacky fibreglass. As I noted earlier, that gives you a chemical bond between coats, which is much better than the "mechanical bond" you get when letting the earlier coat cure before applying the next.

The job really requires a good bank of uninterrupted time in which to smooth the substrate and make fillets with filler, lay the glass down, and brush on finishing coats all in one go. Otherwise, you likely will need to sand between steps or coats. And sanding epoxy and fibreglass is never fun. Therefore, make the pancakes and fill your belly before starting the work :lol:

Schedules are never yours any more when married with kids. I've made pancakes between fibreglass layup steps too. Now that my boy is older, he too dawns the latex gloves and/or sand paper and pitches in, so now HE chooses to schedule the pancakes BEFORE we start step 1.

As for use of squeegee vs. brush: use both tools simultaneously ... the squeegee for doing straight flat areas (it will really move epoxy around and help avoid puddles), and a disposable brush for corners, for laying tape (used mostly with a stippling action to work epoxy in and to avoid dragging the glass), and for wetting out edges (light, gentle outward flipping action - and yes, you're likely to pull frays off the edges, so used paper towel to remove them from the brush).

Good luck and mostly ... have fun!


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## auratum

Well it seems that my epoxy is pretty slow setting. After coming back after breakfast, the fillets were still soft and gooey. I laid the fiber glass in the bottom, then waited for that to set for a little while then laid the back. I have just the ends and front to do yet and plan to hit those yet tonight. It is really messy, but going OK. The glass fabric is far more fragile than I imagined it would be. I end up with loose threads *EVERYWHERE*!

I will be much better prepared for the 225 & 420 when I start them!

Patrick


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## newfisher

Looks like you're on your way. As I said earlier, by tank 3 you'll be a pro.

Gotta love those threads. Learn to handle the fibreglass as little as possible and try loading your brush a bit more to keep it wetter when working near the edges of the glass. That way it should then grab less and help keep those threads under better control.

A slow cure is usually better - your cooler room temperature is no doubt helping there. Cherish it, as a slower cure gives more time to work without panic. A slower cure will also give you a better end product, giving time for longer molecular chains to form, resulting in a tougher and more flexible cured product.

Polyester resin cure time can be adjusted by using more or less hardener. But don't try to adjust epoxy cure time by varying the mix. Different hardener formulations are used for that, and the 2:1 mix should be maintained within about 5%, perhaps 10% on a stretch, but that much variance will reduce end-product quality. If ever you want to push epoxy cure, increase the temperature. When I need to push a cure, I usually build a poly and/or blanket tent over the project and plug in a few lamps or an in-car electric heater that I keep in the shop for that purpose.


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## auratum

newfisher,

Thanks for the continued advice! I got the ends and front done. I smeared a fresh coat of epoxy on the bottom to keep it fresh and will go back in an hour or so to do a color coat over everything. The top coat does not use near as much and it spreads alot better! I think you are right - by the 3rd tank it will be a cinch. I agree on handle the glass very little. I was surprised how easily it snags also.

I noticed a small air bubble on the bottom. Is there anything that can be done to remove it? I don't care from a look perspective, I just want it to make sure it is not a weak spot for failure in the future...

Thanks again!!!
Patrick


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## newfisher

Air bubbles are inevitable - a tiny bit of debris under the glass or a blemish in the substrate is all they need to form. Small bubbles may not cause problems, but should water ever get under them, well ... it's usually best to not have any bubbles at all.

Keep your substrate and work area clean (high-end aircraft type composite work is often done in clean rooms), and use a good light held at different angles to help spot bubbles as you progress. Over time you'll identify work methods that will minimize bubbles.

Sometimes a bubble will form and you simply cannot work it out during the layup (usually because there's dirt in there). In that case, wait for the epoxy to get tacky, then with a gloved thumb, "squish" the bubble down to stick the glass to the substrate. You may have to repeat this a few times if the epoxy is not tacky enough yet. You might still have time to do that with the bubble(s) you have.

If the epoxy has gone past tacky (of if in doubt), wait until the epoxy cures nearly hard (no tack). Then drill a couple of small holes, one on each side of the bubble, and inject epoxy into one hole with a syringe (available from most mail order wood working stores) until it oozes out the other, then gently wipe clean. Bubbles are easy to spot if epoxy is clear, but since you're tinting the final coat(s), mark the bubble with a straight pin or a small finishing nail, keep working, then go back to it with the drill and syringe when everything is done. The application inside the bubble won't be wet-on-wet, but usually bubbles are small enough that once filled, delamination should not be an issue.

Should ever you spot a large area that's become delaminated (usually more of a problem for outdoor projects exposed to sun, temperature shifts, and differential movement of composite and substrate), use the drill-syringe approach above (you may need more holes), add just enough epoxy to wet everything, then place wax paper over the "patch area" and place weight on it until it cures. Once fully cured the wax paper should come off no problem (it will stick if the epoxy still has any tack at all).

The one thing I forgot to mention earlier is another advantage of going wet-on-wet: you don't need to worry with amine blush between coats. Amine blush, which mostly forms under humid conditions with some hardeners as epoxy looses its tack, is a waxy film that forms on the surface, and which can act as "mold release wax" for future epoxy coats (not good). Amine blush cannot be effectively sanded ... that only serves to spread it around. However, it is water soluble and can be easily washed off using comet detergent or similar abrasive cleaner, water, and a stiff brush, followed by lots of rinsing. But that's another step ... one which is usually best reserved to backyards that don't have snow in them, and which is perhaps best avoided regardless of the season.

Just an added note: if wet-on-wet application is not possible, amine blush and the need for sanding between coats can be avoided altogether by using peal-ply, but (although it can be reused a few times) it's expensive and usually needs to be cut to fit. Peal-ply is used extensively in aircraft construction where epoxy steps are often separated by fair amounts of time and one does not want to do any sanding at all, which can sever valuable glass reinforcing fibres and void the aircraft's certification.


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## auratum

newfisher,

Thank you again for the advice!

The blue top coat went pretty well. The color is really dark as I had hoped - I bought Indigo pigment and it looks just like the color on the web site - Indigo/Midnight Blue. I am pleased with it. I will take some pics and post when I get a chance - it will be hard to get a good picture as the surface is so shiny. Now I want to finish sealing the outside before I move on to the 225. My hand is really sore from mixing the epoxy - apparently I was holding the stir stick too tightly. That's what happens when desk jockeys decides to do real work.

Patrick


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## auratum

Here are some pics of the recent work on the 150...

Pics of the tank


















Pic of color up close with flash which washed out the color. The real color is in between the first pictures and the last on here.









Thanks for looking!
Patrick


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## pistolpete

Thanks newfisher for all your detailed advice. I will be referring to this thread if I ever find the time to build myself a tank. This should be made into an article or stickied.


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## newfisher

:thumb: Get a chance to do any work on the other tanks yet? opcorn:


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## auratum

newfisher said:


> :thumb: Get a chance to do any work on the other tanks yet? opcorn:


Nope - life keeps getting in the way. Was hoping to do some yesterday, but in-laws came to town for a visit. It was a nice visit, but no progress.


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## auratum

Been making a little progress on this. I have the 150 done except for the dividers, braces, and front glass. I started gluing the 225 today. Slow progress, but progress none the less...


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## bertolli

Keep it up!!!! :thumb:


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## auratum

Made good progress in the last couple of weeks. Almost done with fiberglass - just two small areas to finish up on the largest tank. Then time for glass, then holders for dividers, then braces, then plumbing, then water... No picture updates yet, but there will be soon.


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## auratum

Fiberglass done. Glass siliconed in. Divider holders cut and ready to glue (just have to finish prep for epoxy). Top tank edge support & cross braces cut and ready to attach (they are the DIY shelf support strips sold @ Lowe's). Stand/rack wired for lights (planning to use fluorescent twisty bulbs - 100 W equivalent). Getting closer everyday... Here is a pic showing all three tanks and the rack in the distance. The white/light areas on the dark blue tanks is just dust from sanding of the epoxy - when clean it looks like dark blue glass. The white divider strips will be glued in with epoxy tinted with the blue pigment to better disguise them. The black is tape used to hold the two strips with spacer together while epoxy cures. Once this is done, then comes plumbing.


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## cgh2010

Nice work so far, looks great!


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## juliocromus

wow is all i can say, but aren't those tanks heavy, how r u gonna put em on the shelves.


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## auratum

juliocromus said:


> wow is all i can say, but aren't those tanks heavy, how r u gonna put em on the shelves.


Thanks cgh2010 & juliocromus. I was moving the tanks myself (very carefully) until I put the glass in. They are heavy but manageable. The heaviest goes on the bottom so it doesn't have to be moved too far.


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## mreece127

Patrick,

What's the status on this project? You got the tanks up and running yet?


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## auratum

Tanks are done. Life happens (work, kids, etc.) and I am still working on the plumbing...


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## Malawi_Junkie

That looks awesome, nice work. =D>


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## jchild40

Incredible! That would look great in my basement.... but it would take me years to find the time and ambition to do it. Can't wait to see it with water!


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## Manoah Marton

:thumb:

(actions speak louder than words :lol: )


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## auratum

Thanks for the comments folks. I am anxious to get the plumbing done and get these filled. Being a Dad and work comes first so this has taken some time.


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## LoRyder

wow great job on this so far.. cant wait to see the finished project

opcorn: =D>


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## jmartyg

opcorn:


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## auratum

Thanks guys for the comments. Progress has been slow...


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## Teggy

I'm joining in with my opcorn: I can't wait to see this finished.


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## LoRyder

auratum. How's the project going??


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## redzebra24

I'm not that sure how strong plywood is on a 8ft span. Will you be bracing the tanks front to back to prevent bow once the water is in?


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## auratum

redzebra24 said:


> I'm not that sure how strong plywood is on a 8ft span. Will you be bracing the tanks front to back to prevent bow once the water is in?


The tanks are braced. I have metal reinforcing the top edge that is cross-tied front to back right in the middle of the tank.

The plumbing is moving slowly. I have several pieces rough cut and laid out, but nothing glued yet. Many trips back and forth to buy and return materials that did not work out the way I intended.


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## jmartyg

update?


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## auratum

Progressing...

Got more plumbing done. I have the stand built and painted for the filters. I hope to be done with the plumbing for a test fill sometime next week (using vacation next week).

My plan is to test fill and check for leaks. If all is good, then I will drain it and refill with fresh water and then start circulating. I have some convicts to put in as guinea pigs to ensure there isn't any issues with water quality.

So - stay tuned for updates in the next week (with pictures).

Merry Christmas!


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## auratum

Finished plumbing today and did a test fill tonight. Found one small leak on a bulk head on the top tank - will need to dig into that tomorrow. Other than that things looked as expected.

I still need to install my circulation pump, but I am re-using a pump from another tank and need to be ready to put fish in pretty quickly once I rob the pump.


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## gmaschke

Sweet!


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## auratum

Update:

After the bottom two tanks sat full on Monday night, a leak developed from the silicone seal between the glass and the tank. I was able to re-seal this yesterday along with the bulk-head and re-test today. The bottom and middle tanks look good again and are circulating and have a few fish in them. The top tank bulk head still leaked after my first attempt to seal it. I ended up completely removing it and resealing with silicone. This should be cured by tomorrow and I will test fill the top tank again.

No updated pics yet, sorry...


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## auratum

Update:

All tanks holding water now - all leaks fixed. Picked up heaters today. Need to plumb the main circulation pump next, but need to steal it off a running tank...


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## jchild40

Good to hear!


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## auratum

Found a fatal flaw in my overflow design (piping was too high) that required me to re-pipe the overflows so that I didn't overflow the tank when I turn on the big circulation pump. Now I need to plumb up the circulation pump.

Bought the supplies to cover the tanks - when I had the 400 and 240 circulating with a small pump and heating up, all the windows in the house starting sweating - so I need to get these closed in to control moisture in the house and reduce my water heating cost (lots of heat lost to evaporation).


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## auratum

Pump is now plumbed up and everything is running well. I have the tank tops mostly done. Sorry no update pictures yet.


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## jmartyg

Pics or it didn't happen


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## auratum

OK. Update with some pics.

Top tank - 96 x 24 x 16 outside dimension = 147 gallons
Middle tank - 96 x 36 x 16 outside dimension = 226 gallons
Bottom tank - 96 x 48 x 22 outside dimension = 418 gallons
Total volume - 792 gallons

Tanks were constructed of 3/4" exterior grade plywood and then coated with fiberglass (epoxy resin with a layer of glass cloth)

Bottom left hand back corner is where the pump is. The pump does 4200 gallons per hour and pumps water to the top tank, where it overflows through the bulk heads to a filter constructed of a plastic storage bin. From here it flows from the filter to the middle tank. The middle tank overflows through another filter to the bottom tank. The pump area in the bottom tank is sectioned off with 2 layers of egg crate with a 1' layer of foam between.

The top tank can be divided into 4 smaller areas sections using egg crate. I used epoxy to glue in strips to hold the dividers in place. The middle & bottom tanks can be divided into 8 sections each.

My purpose for building this monstrosity was to house breeding pairs of cichlids and the fry. I tried to build this to make maintenance as easy as possible. I used the concepts TFG shared in building his monster tank like hard piping drains to allow easy draining for water changes. I need to get the water piped closer - I currently use my python to refill the tank.

I have 6 x 200 W heaters right now (got all of them for $25), but this is overkill and I plan to trim this down.

I currently have both old & new world cichlids. The first planned project is breeding gold Jack Dempsey.

Here is the front view of the three tanks.



















Here is a picture of the overflow plumbing on the back.



















Here are the bin filters. The water flows in the top and through layers of 1" foam and then out the bulk heads to the tank below.



















Here is the water inlet piping to the top tank.










Here are some of the fish in the tanks. I plan to do some shuffling, but this is where they are right now. Sorry for the poor pictures & dirty glass - I have never been good at taking fish pictures!

Top tank right now has my 8 Jack Dempsey's - 5 gold & 3 standard.




























The middle tank has my africans - male fusco, female rostratum, zebra obliquidens, electric yellows, & 8 large clown loaches.










The bottom tank has my gold severum, red spotted severum, chocolate cichlid, & a few salvinis.










I hope you enjoyed these pictures. This has taken me almost 2 yrs to complete and has turned out almost exactly as I had envisioned. There are some things I would do differently if I were to do it again, but for the most part I wouldn't change a thing. 
One key component I plan to add yet is a UV Sterilizer.

Regards,
Patrick


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## jchild40

This is awesome! Great work and thanks for sharing!


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## GTZ

Nicely done Patrick, I can only imagine the amount of work that's gone into that!
=D>


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## dielikemoviestars

Love to see a project like this come to fruition. Awesome tanks. :thumb:


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## auratum

Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate the encouragement.


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## Dieselfool

Very nice.


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