# Filter Media Advice.



## BenMoffat (Apr 23, 2016)

I'm going to get an Sunsun 304A external canister filter that have filter wool and three trays to fill to go with my Flubal U4 that I already have running. 
I'm running a 240 litre tank with currently 10 Mbunas, but will be increasing that number in the future.

For the material I'm thinking of going with sponge pad (that I cut myself), should I use 1 or 2 inch thick?

But after that, this is where I need you're help as its a jungle lol.

I can get the coral sands, the bio-ball dense, bio-ball large or small, the ceramic bio-rings or normal ceramic rings, carbon in a net, CarboMax plus. I really have no idea how to pack them and in what order either.

I'm still waiting for my API master test kit to arrive as I've ordered it from over seas, but I've used the Tetra test 6in1 and according to that my numbers are:
• 0 Cl2
• 10 KH
• 8 GH
• 0 mg/L No2
• 10 mg/L No3
The pH in this test strip is really not correct as I seem to get numbers all over the scale but say somewhere around 7.2-8, like I said I don't think they are real values since its strips and everything I've read about my communities water they all say out of the tap water has a PH of 8. So I'll have to wait until my API kit arrives (hopefully next week).

Any help would be appreciated


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Welcome to C-F!!!

I don't own that particular brand of filter and I also don't know what filter media (if any) comes with the package. The usual recommendation for any canister filter is a mechanical media (pad, ceramic rings) to catch larger particles, fine pad to catch smaller particles, bio-media (bio-rings/balls/media) to provide nitrification processes and chemical (carbon/peat, other) if needed. Follow the filter instructions for the correct order for placing each of the 3 media types for best results.

I don't know what brands of bio-media are available in Sweden but I use either Eheim Substrat Pro or Seachem Pond Matrix in my canisters. I have a feeling that Sera products are popular in your area so you might want to consider using them if available.

As far as cutting your own sponge pad, be careful of using treated household or similar products that may have fungicide or anti-bacterial properties. I use either the Eheim pads or Poret foam pads cut to fit in my canister filters. Is Poret foam available in your area?


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## BenMoffat (Apr 23, 2016)

Thank you for a quick reply. No I'm not talking about household products, and unfortunately I can't get the Poret. The ones I can buy is blue pads 50x50centimeters that is either 1 or 2 inch thick and there is three different PPI 10, 20 or 30.
Should I get one of each for each filter media tray?

I can also get ceramic rings, Ehfi Mech, Eheim bio mech, Eheim Substrate Pro, coral sands (think I will need this for buffering my pH), bioballs small or large. What would you suggest I get for my three trays?

Nothing is included in the external canister except the bio-chemical filter wool.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

OK! I would wait until you get the filter before buying media so you can see what they recommend in each tray and hopefully how much media each tray will need.

I would choose the 30PPI in 1 inch thick, you can always double them up that way if they fit in the media tray. It is also easier to fit the thinner media under the tray handles if they have them.

I do use the Eheim Ehfi Mech in my Eheim canister filters so you may want to consider using it in one of the trays though the 30PPI pad will serve the same purpose for mechanical media. I also like the Substrat Pro for bio-media. I have not purchased bio-balls, either small or large so I can't offer any opinions on using them.

Another choice for fine media is 100% polyester batting that is normally used for stuffing pillows or quilts, just be sure that the product you choose does not have additives or is meant for outdoor use.

I would wait for your pH test kit to arrive before deciding on whether you need to alter your water parameters. What I always suggest doing is to take a sample of your tap (source) water in a clean glass container and testing for pH, GH and KH, write the results down and then wait 24 hours and test the same sample again. Compare the results. If you notice that any of the values have changed, you may want to consider buffering your tank water with either a store bought or homemade buffer. Most fish will live and breed well without having to change their water parameters.


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## dledinger (Mar 20, 2013)

There are so many options that it can make your head spin. 1" foam is a good place to start. You can always double it and then you have the option of replacing the dirty (or dirtier) half. Personally, I like coarse media and avoid any sort of fine floss. 30ppm is relatively fine but still coarse enough to not require a ton of maintenance (when compared to flosses). You may well find you're quite happy without any additional mechanical media. Kind of the same deal with biomedia options. There are more than you can shake a stick at and every manufacturer claims to have the best. I run fluval biomax and crushed lava rock. The lava rock is a fairly new thing for me, but I'm pretty confident that it will be no better or worse than any other media I've tried. People have been known to use legos, plastic army men, drinking straws, hair curlers, broken dishes and every commercial media under the sun - all with success.


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## black and blue (Jun 17, 2016)

So you can over fill your media compartments?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

black and blue said:


> So you can over fill your media compartments?


Yes it is possible, especially with canister filters that have multiple media trays. Over filling the trays won't allow the trays to stack properly, can lead to difficulty closing the filter or damaging filter parts and may also contribute to some bypass of the water being filtered.


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## Samadhikash (Jun 16, 2015)

In addition to overfilling the trays as mentioned above, it's also possible to get to a point of diminishing returns. For example, the API Filstar XP-L is listed with a flow rating of 350 gallons/hour. But "with filtration media and accessories" that drops to 187 gallons/hour. (Taken from apifishcare.com) So while more biomedia is generally considered a good thing, really packing it in can cause a substantial reduction in flow rates. It's the nature of the beast to be sure, just something to think about.


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