# Cyanobacteria battle!



## zenobium (Jan 5, 2006)

I have a fairly heavily planted tank tank: camboba, java fern, java moss, crypts, dwarf hairgrass, and moneywort. Nitrates are permenantly at 0, even if I go weeks without doing a water change. This tank has been set up this way for about a year.

About 2 months ago I made the stupid mistake of adding a spirulina wafer for a pleco to eat. Ever since, the spirulina has been on a growing spree. It is mostly becoming a problem on the sand substrate and on the plant leaves.

I'm looking for suggestions on what I can do. I have tried manual removal and water changes, but the effects are only temporary. I recently added more circulation to the tank, not sure if it will help. I am hesitant to use antibiotics because I dont want to throw off the excellent nutrient balance I have in the tank right now. Blackouts are risky due to all the plants. Ideas????

-Zen


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## PsYcHoTiC_MaDmAn (Dec 26, 2005)

what sort of turnover have you got in there, higher turnovers will inhibit the growth to a degree.

also, it may be worth adding nitrates/phosphates to the tank, dont know if you use the EI method, but it may be of use. if you over supply the plants needs (both micro/macro nutrients) and perform a 50% wc weekly to reset the system, you may get better plant growth and lose the algae.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Have you tested Phosphates?

I had this problem and did everything I could way back in the day, higher flow making sure to reduce all dead spots, reduced light cycle, better mechanical filtration. Then someone told me that Phosphates could be doing it so after adding some Phosphate remover it was gone.

Make sure with the water change that you suck out all of it or it could spread easily.

Also I am just curious, what substrate do you use? I went with a black sand once and it caused all kinds of problems for a bit of time. Eventually it stopped but I was told that also may have played a role in this separate occasion.


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## Barbie (Feb 13, 2003)

Phosphates are what the cyano is using to grow, but in a planted tank, the actual cause is LACK of enough other nutrients. Adding nitrate, feeding more, reducing water change frequency, and increasing water movement will all help. You don't mention if you dose CO2 in any way. That too can be a limiting factor for the plants to outcompete the bacteria for nutrient.

While the algae wafer might have added the nutrient for the cyano to lock in, it's doubtful that it introduced something that actually grew into cyano in your tank .

Barbie


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## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

Eurythromyacin in half doses can remove green slime algae(cyanobacteria). You can find it anywhere fish meds are sold.

The plants you have can withstand a blackout of 2-3 days with no issues.

What size is the tank? What is the lighting situation? What is your turnover? Do you add ferts?

I've found that sometimes to combat algae in my planted tanks, more fert dosing is required.


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## zenobium (Jan 5, 2006)

Thanks for the feedback guys, to answer your questions:

1) I use a HOT magnum filter, 250 gallons/min. The powerhead I recently added to help fight the cyano is also 250 gpm

2) Tank is a 29 gallon standard

3) Substrate is white very fine sand that I got from a LFS years ago. I used it for years without issue.

4) Lighting is a compact florescent 20W Powerglo

5) No artificial Co2 is added

6) Ferts were added once when the tank was first set up, but on advice from another aquarist was discontinued.

7) I have not tested phosphates or have the kit to do so

Comment time!!

1) I am almost 100% the cyano in my tank is spirulina and that I jump started the infection by adding the wafer. It started to grow exactly where the wafer hit the ground and looks like spirulina to me. Next month I will be returning to college (Im an Ecology grad student) and will be able to confirm or disconfirm with microscopy if needed.

2) I have heard about adding Nitrate... any way I can add it without doing excessive feeding?

3) I'm not familiar with phosphate removers... help?

4) What is the EI method?

5) I LOVE Wales! I studied abroad in Liverpool and spent some in Caernarfon (I know, multiple spellings). Your country is amazing. I live in a cesspool called Detroit, be happy you get to live there!

Thanks for all the help, its appreciated!

-Zen


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## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

zenobium said:


> Thanks for the feedback guys, to answer your questions:
> 
> 1) I use a HOT magnum filter, 250 gallons/min. The powerhead I recently added to help fight the cyano is also 250 gpm
> 
> ...


Gallons per HOUR, not minute... You're tank would look like a whirlpool otherwise! lol...

Check out dr foster smith for phosphate removers. There are powders, filter media pellets and pads. Try googling "phosphate remover"

You can dose nitrates by either buying a commercial nitrate fert or a powdered fert. Green Leaf Aquariums has great prices. It doesn't sound like EI dosing is something you want to do as you have very, very low lights. If your plants are growing I honestly wouldn't screw with it. I have a very low tech tank and add ferts on occasion.

I find one of the best ways to get rid of your blue geen algae is to first use a gravel vac to actually remove the algae and substrate that it is attached to, followed by a large is water change. Then I do a dose of ferts per the manufacturer's recomendation. It seems as though white substrates tend to produce more cyano than others, but I could be wrong.


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## heylady (Oct 14, 2004)

How old is the bulb in your light fixture? On every tank that I've had power compacts I've had cyano show up. Either your bulb is old or you've just switched your lighting unit to PC's. Ditto on the antibiotics...that's what I've used to get rid of it after trying every other method.


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## zenobium (Jan 5, 2006)

Bulbs are probably more than a year old... hadnt considered that. Ok, bulb switch will be my next step, ill keep you updated on progress.

-Zen


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

The bulb should probably be replaced but I doubt that is going to help you at all.

Just get some Phosgurad or Purigen in the canister for a bit of time and watch how fast it goes away.

I have had cyno in many tanks ad the most frequent is my Newts aquarium. I have lots of plants, drift wood and some of that black sand. It came and gone and came and gone and no matter what I did it just kept up in that pattern. Eventually I added some Phosguard in and it never came back. Wel its going on 2 weeks now and not a trace in all the more common spots I have seen it.

I used Phosguard in my plated tank and like I said it went away for ever. Just make sure you suck it all out.


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