# Stocking 55g tank w/ Jewel Cichlid



## CrownJewel (Oct 18, 2010)

I have my Jewel Cichlid, Joel, that I've kept for over 2 years now. Unfortunately I haven't been able to give him a properly sized tank since I moved recently. Now I have plans to setup my old 55 gallon tank (that he hasn't lived in yet). I'm never able to find enough information on Jewel Cichlids, so I'm starting this thread to ask a few questions.

Before I start asking questions, I think it's important for me to mention that I would like to breed my (assumed) male. I'm not 100% sure what species of Hemichromis he is, but he looks a lot like ones I've seen at Petsmart... :? I am aware that they can be extremely aggressive while breeding, so I am also trying to find out which species would be compatible while they were breeding (if I could sex a female properly).

Here are some of my starter questions;

1. I am wondering which groups of cichlids work with Jewels. I've heard that Firemouths, Convicts, _Pseudotropheus Saulosi_, Fairy Brichardi Cichlids, and a few other types of cichlids work Ok, but other than that I haven't gotten much information. I still need to setup a specific stocking list, because I don't want to understock the tank.

2. I would like to know a little more about the Jewel's natural habitat. I've read conflicting information about where they live, and what kind of environment they live in (e.g. rocky, heavily planted, primarily brown rocks, bright shiney white rocks, etc.). I want to setup an aquarium that's as close to authentic as I can afford (which isn't all that much).

3. Unfortunately, my Jewel Cichlid is somewhat of a dim yellow/brown. He is capable of turning bright red, but he hasn't in a long time. I haven't been able to keep in a proper sized tank, and it's having an effect on his mood and behavior. I am trying to upgrade him as soon as I can saftely do so while doing the proper research. With dull coloration being a factor to consider, what are some of the best ways to sex Jewels? I know the females are usually rounder, and the males have more iridescent spots on their gill-flap, but if I didn't have multiple specimens to compare with, how would I be able to tell? A thread with lots of pictures might help. I've seen a few, but not enough that I feel comfortable with betting the life of a fish over.

Answers to these questions would be much appreciated! It's good to be back on Cichlid Forums. 

Thanks CF Community!
-CrownJewel


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## BC in SK (Aug 11, 2012)

1. IME, convicts make very hardy tankmates for breeding jewels. Stock a group of females, but be aware when sexing cons, that very young males sometimes exhibit yellow belly spots. If you end up with a pair of cons it may work for quite some time.......but no guarantee as one pair (either jewels or cons) might end up prevailing in only 55 gal. of space.

Mbuna, IMO is another option. Avoid the very aggressive species (auratus, kenyi, bumblebee) as they are either too aggressive or too large(bumblebee) for a 55 gal. Never had a pair of jewels that could defend against mature adult auratus, and many that could not against kenyi at various times. My current pair in my 180 gal. are able to defend against the very large dominant male bumblebee but are not always able too against the smaller sub-dom male bumblebee. Of course if a substrate spawner cannot own space and defend from all tankmates, they are more then unlikely to breed in the tank. But in a 55 gal., one group of a medium to less aggressive species of mbuna might be an option, IMO. You don't want too many either, as breeding jewels will take some space.

IMO and IME, a 3-spot/blue/gold/opaline gourami is an option with breeding jewels. Either one, or a larger group to spread out aggression. Paradise fish as well as long as you have either floating plants and/or real/plastic plants that come to the surface. A group of giant danios might be worth a try.

Any of these above mentioned fish can perform the dither role well......that is, they will bring the jewels out, make them feel comfortable, and prevent them from being overly shy or scared. As well, a 'target' role. Even though jewel pairs are often much more compatible, long term, then many of the larger substrate spawners, I still think there is great adavantage in housing them with tankmates as a distraction/ diversion/dispersion of aggression. Especially other cichlids can divert the male's attnention during periods when the pair is not getting along.

2. Never seen a pic of their natural habitat. Like most cichlids they require some shelter: caves built out of rock, driftwood or flower pot. Unlike mbuna, they are much less inclined to utilise 2nd and 3rd layer caves, so don't go over board with rock work that takes up swimming space. I don't beleive they are especially hard on plants....though cons and mbuna sometimes are.

3. Male and female have different body shape. Females rounder. The top and bottom of a male body sort of makes for parralel lines. The last number of years, I'm 100% on sexing dozens of jewels at a very young age. Though I must admit that in a young group there are always lot's that I am not certain are either female, or male that have yet to develope male characteristic. Anyways, jewels are easier to sex, IMO, then similar aged young CA/SA cichlids. Pictures are another story......differences are not so obvious like they are when viewing the fish in person. There is a claim in a recent thread that males and females can be distinguished by the amount of irridiohores (bright blue spots) on the tail fin; males having significantly more. And while there is some truth to that, as males often do have more bright blue spots on the fins, it's not 100%, that's for sure, as the female of my current pair has more bright blue spots through out her tail, then my male does!

I think you would be best to get a group of female (say 3) and let your male choose, rather then a forced pairing. If you have difficulty sexing them at a store.....watch them for some time as quite often there will already be a pair formed in the dealer's tank; female more then likely being the smaller of the 2.


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## CrownJewel (Oct 18, 2010)

Thank you so much for your informative post! I really appreciate all the time you put into writing it! 

After your very helpful description with sexing Jewel's, I think I can say with confidence that he's a male Cichlid. After I finish my stocking list, I imagine I'll go to Petsmart and grab three female Jewels. I need to have my stocking list finished to avoid the potential pair claiming the entire tank as their territory.

I think I really like the idea of having a group of female Convicts, as well as perhaps 1/2 (m/f) Gold Gouramis, depending on whether or not a trio would work with Convicts and a mating pair of Jewels. With that idea in mind, I am wondering about how many Convicts I would need to complete the setup and minimize the aggression between the three potential groups. I guess right now my idea for a stocking setup (which I don't mind changing if it will cause problems) looks like:

1.1 Jewel Cichlid
0.? Convict Cichlids (not sure how many females I need)
1.2 _Trichogaster trichopterus_ (Gold/Opaline/Blue Gourami)


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## BC in SK (Aug 11, 2012)

I would do 4-5 female cons and consider the possibility that you may have to remove an aggressor or a picked on fish over time. Be aware, as well, that it is not unusual for female cons to pair up with each other at times.....though IME, female pairs are quite undemanding of space and of course never have fry to defend. With only 2 female cons, I think there is a pretty good chance that one will just end up picking on the other.

T. tichopterus can have very high conspecific aggression. I've never had any luck with just 2. Males in particular can become quite intolerant of others of their own kind. I once purchased a mature trio of gold gouramis. The smaller female chased and chased the larger female in a 125 gal. ......I seriously considered removing one. They had a scrap.....the larger one, and then she chased the smaller quite a bit, though not quite as excessively as the smaller had done previously. I think you would be best to consider either 1 or a larger group of 4 or more. As well, be aware that at the 2 1/2" size they are commonly sold, that males have often not yet developed the pointed dorsal fin.

I do have a few pics, though not very good, that might demonstrate the difference in body shape between male and female jewel. These are much more mature then ones sold at the LFS, so the differences are more obvious then on younger specimens.
Current male:









Note the body shape......top and bottom make for parralel lines, rather then for a rounded body shape. Also note the head shape which is more typical of a male.

Previos male:









Same charecteristics as above. Also note the amount of blue spots on the fins, though it definately comes out in the aggressive mode that is is in.

Previous female:









Note the round body shape, as well as the different head shape then the male. Also note the lack of coloration and bright blue spots on the fins.


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