# building 220g stand



## limelight (Feb 4, 2009)

*** never done this before so im asking questions to avoid waisting my money and time..
i have a 220 g long.....18.5 inches wide...30 tall.... and 8 ft long.








what type of wood shud i use and has anyone built a stand this size(if so can i see yopur plans)?
i also wanna build a canopy

thanx cf
limelight


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## limelight (Feb 4, 2009)

oops also does anyone know close to the cost of building it yourself or having lfs do it?


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

If you have the metal stand pictured, just a wood shell around it would give the cabinet look without the cost of entirely replacing it. Pet shops are unlikely to custom build stands but you could ask. More likely a cabinet maker could do it.


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## boredatwork (Sep 14, 2007)

limelight said:


> so im asking questions to avoid waisting my money and time


Never assume that any amount of research will stop you from wasting time and money.

As for cost, if you had someone build one for you it would probably be pretty expensive. If that is the route you wanted to go, you would be better off looking around for local shops that sell stands for big tanks. At that size tank, from my experience with a 125G, because of shipping you pretty much either need to build it yourself or find something local. But even if you buy local it will still be pretty expensive. And when I say expensive I mean probably $500-$1000. I spent at least that much on mind and I built it myself.

Craigslist would be a really good option if you don't want to build it yourself. Buying used could save you tons of money.


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## snorkel2 (Sep 30, 2005)

you could like the other poster said, just wrap the metal stand you have now with plywood and add doors. Since the metal frame is doing all the work, you could use 1/2 plywood to save some cash.

If you built a totally new one, the best way to go is with 3/4 inch plywood and a oak face frame.

Building a stand is not rocket science, but you do need some general carpentry skills.


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## aji1217 (Aug 22, 2009)

Another option, what I might end up doing with my 200G is just making a cheap ugly frame and putting drywall around it, make a nice looking panel for the top and calling it a day. doesnt look like that would work with that window there though...

I made this in a weekend and $160 at home depot.








(its not actually bowed..just a weird fisheye thing the camera does sometimes...)

important lesson learned.

make the biggest doors you can.  I cant get into it except to feed without removing the whole top. luckily one of my goals was to be prepared for my move coming up in a few months, so its not too hard to take off. just cant do it by myself.

still not done with the bottom obviously.

one thing you also need to factor in when you are buying wood for the canopy, is total weight. you dont want 200 pounds sitting on top of your tank.

as far as the bottom goes, standard 4x4's work great as legs, and 2x6's for the bracing. Of course I always go for overkill on things, you might be able to get by with 2x4's, but just remember, your dealing with about 2000lb's of water.

and...level it BEFORE AND AFTER you place the tank on it.

just my two cents...

useful tip- if you want to make it easier to move and plan on doing trim to frame the tank, use velcro strips to mount it.


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## snorkel2 (Sep 30, 2005)

"ou might be able to get by with 2x4's, but just remember, your dealing with about 2000lb's of water. "

You can most certainly use 2x4s. Pine has a compression strength of over 700lbs per inch.

A stand made of 1x4 pine would also be sufficient.

You have to remember, it may be 2000lbs, but it's distributed over a wide area, there IS NOT 2000 lbs of water pushing down in any one spot on a stand.


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## aji1217 (Aug 22, 2009)

Well my apologies, I'm no physics major, or carpenter for that matter, just saying how I would do it, and what I know works from experience.

Good luck.

(I would not ever trust putting anything that weighs as much as a civic on anything with legs made out of 1x4's...)

Just my take on it, the math may add up, and it may be fine, but its just my opinion.


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## aji1217 (Aug 22, 2009)

double post..sorry


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## limelight (Feb 4, 2009)

thanx guys. im gonna just build around the steel frame will save me lots of work that way. I got my 2x4s for the frame and 1/2 inch oak to wrap it with. just because *** got a 55g sump sitting under the 220 im gonna leave the back open for now and put 2 big3 foot doors or just maybe one 4 ft in the center.........


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## lilredwuck (Jul 30, 2008)

I just bought a 240 yesterday. The factory stand that came with it is made from 3/4" plywood and 3/4" MDF. The top and bottom are solid mdf pieces. The sides are a solid 25"W X 32"T 3/4" plywood. The front has four 9" wide pieces of plywood pocket screwed to the top and bottom. The back is the same way. So technically I am guessing that a 3/4 plywood supports would work fine. I have noticed that on the tanks I have seen a solid side to it. With the front pieces connected to the side pieces and a couple small supports in the middle it will be fine. Heck I would never believe it, but hey! I will take a picture later when I get my camera back.


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## AU Chief (Jun 20, 2007)

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=171383&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=15

I think the plans in that thread are for a 55, but I just expanded them out to fit a larger tank and it worked. Its super sturdy, I'd imagine you could built it 8 feet in length without the need to for a front center brace. And it was really easy to build. I'm no carpenter and I did it in 2 days (I didn't have all the tools at my house or it would have been a day).

Painted black and with two tank on it, its great looking. If you wanted to hit the bottom area you could just panel the front and sides and had doors.


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## limelight (Feb 4, 2009)

thanks for the input. i just decided to do a wrap around what i already have heres my start think im only gonna put in one door just so i can access the 55g sump. Im also just gonna wrap the front now.









i just need the stain and hinges now to finish er off.

please any suggestions would be good thank you all


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## lilredwuck (Jul 30, 2008)

I would say you could always go for a door on the side as well, but I wouldn't seal off any part of the stand so you can't easily access it. If it is a pain to do get to, you won't do it as often. If you are worried about strength it'll be fine. I pulled apart the 220 stand I got. I think anything any one would build would be better than this. Quality wise that is.
















Just went ahead and started making one just like it. Due to a little water damage. 








That's the inside shot of my replica stand. The face is made of b irch plywood 3/4 inch on mine, and 3/4 plywood and mdf on the other. You have enough room for 4 doors which the middle 2 doors don't have a support between them. So I have the top and bottom board in the front with the 4 supports between them 2 being 6 1/2" wide for the inner ones, and 4 1/2" inch for the outter ones. The sides attach to the front, one solid piece of plywood. The back of the tank is a little tricky looking. It has a 4" board running in the far upper back as you can go. The the 3 Supports for in back are 9" wide but instead of sitting underneath the 4" board they go all the way up to the stand top, and they were staple like 5 times there. This thing was put together with staples and nails. Of well it did have some pocket holes. Look at how they did the corners here.








I pulled the seam apart to see what the heck was going on in there and what was holding it.








To my surprise it was just 4 staples. Unsure of what to use on mine in case I stain it though








No MDF so far. This is the Basic Idea framing wise. I have a top and bottom to put on there as well as doors, but thats it. Sooo simple, but looks sooo weak. What I have noticed in commercial stands is this. A solid side piece, with something in the front and back connected to it. Make a nice wide foot. Then just a couple boards in the middle to seperate doors. They use staples and nails. mdf and plywood. I think just supporting the 4 corners is all that is really needed and weight distributed evenly like the bottom board, and it'll work fine. I think the tank set up will be over 2,500 lbs. sitting on this. The bottom was trashed, tons of water damage to about 2" up on the boards. And a week ago it was set up running on this stand. I ramble alot sorry.


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## limelight (Feb 4, 2009)

here is the finished wrap around my door is not centered i know.... my first try @ this









also might not b the right place to ask this but can anyone tell me if either of these are male. i got both the same age and time.....??????









one is holding again for the second time n 1 month


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## limelight (Feb 4, 2009)

here is the finished project watta yall think???????????









:wink: :wink:

just did h20 change thats y its cloudy


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## aji1217 (Aug 22, 2009)

very nice! Just wondering what was the reason for only putting one door? Also...is the top open?

Not being critical, I am going to be redoing mine soon and am looking for ideas...


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## limelight (Feb 4, 2009)

i ran out of the wood so i didnt make another door....i agree its wierd lookin with only one. the wood was $40 for a 8x4 foot sheet so i dont wanna spend another 40 just for a door...

yes the top and back of the canopy is open to vent heat and there is no door on it. just remove it and set aside for mant...


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