# Proflex sump and ChemiPure Elite placement.



## Manifest (Mar 8, 2015)

I am running a model 3 proflex, baisic media kit I bought with it. ( setup here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=349178 ) I picked some ChemiPure up as I have heard nothing but good things about it. I am currently fishless cycling the tank- When the time comes, where should I place the chemi?

I thought maybe under the floss, or under the bio balls in the bottom chamber.

Another question I have- it looks like the water is running across the floss instead of going through. In my mind this isn't a great filtration. Anyone with the setup experience the same and come to a resolve? I've tried dialing the siphon, but that isn't going well for me, as it's a new setup and I am just getting back in the hobby.


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

Place it on top of or in place of the blue sponge between chambers 2 and 3 (where the pump is).

Most of the mechanical filtration is in the filter socks. The floss is just supplementary and you don't have to use it. If the water is flowing across the top that means that the water flow is going too fast to get through the drip tray. You can either widen the holes in the drip tray or drill more holes to accommodate the higher water flow.

Andy


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## Manifest (Mar 8, 2015)

Thanks Andy.

There isn't enough water to place it on the top of the sponge, there's like 1 inch not in water. (picture below.)

I was suspect about the over flow on the floss tray. I didn't want to dial the flow down (pump didn't like that). In the floss tray there is two pieces, fine and course. I will revisit the holes, that sounds like a better idea than removing a piece.


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

You run your sump really low. You could always replace the blue sponge with it. You already have several layers of mechanical filtration before it and the bioballs so the sponge is really unnecessary at this point.

Here's a hint.

Take a piece of tape and mark your current water level. Then unplug your pump and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes. Mark the water level again with a second piece of tape. Then measure the distance between the two marks.

Take that measurement and measure down from the top edge of the short wall on chamber 3. Add 1/2"-1" for a safety margin and mark again. That is your maximum water level and the level you can fill your sump up to for normal operation. Then you may be able to maintain a higher water level which means more days before you have to refill. It's ok if some of the bioballs on the bottom are submerged. They will still be providing biological filtration.

Andy


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## Manifest (Mar 8, 2015)

Narwhal72 said:


> You run your sump really low. You could always replace the blue sponge with it. You already have several layers of mechanical filtration before it and the bioballs so the sponge is really unnecessary at this point.
> 
> Here's a hint.
> 
> ...


Thanks again, I do have some work to do- the corner overflow water level is half-way up on the teeth. Seen someone cut 5-6 of the center teeth- just 1/4 - 1/2 inch of each to retain the barrier but allow better flow. Doing this should then allow me to add an air hose to the top of the current durso hole/hose to manage air flow for better siphon. This will help with the water level and over all exchange.

Then I will attempt your method.  Your ideas/knowledge is much appreciated.


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

Is your current pump restricted (valved down) or are you planning on putting a larger pump on? Because if you aren't then any changes to the overflow are not going to affect your water level or turnover rate.

What goes up equals what comes down.

The biggest trick to making a durso overflow silent is simply to make sure that the tubing underneath does not have a loop or dip that traps water. This causes surging which makes the overflow noisy. Simply spiral the tube if it is too long into a downward spiral from the aquarium to the sump and you will quiet it significantly. You may have to use some pvc strapping for support.

Andy


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## Manifest (Mar 8, 2015)

Narwhal72 said:


> Is your current pump restricted (valved down) or are you planning on putting a larger pump on? Because if you aren't then any changes to the overflow are not going to affect your water level or turnover rate.
> 
> What goes up equals what comes down.
> 
> ...


I don't think I need a bigger pump, it's keeping up with my setup, no matter the level in the pump chamber. I am using the Aqueon QuietFlow AQ4500 @ 1189 gph, which I realize isn't the full 1189. I set my siphon side of the sump away from the drain holes, and the return directly under the holes so it shoots straight up. Here's my noob setup. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=349178

My return isn't all that loud, I read an article and watch a video where you add the hose to the top of the durso to control the airflow, to make the siphon stronger. I have the extra hose and air valve, but it makes it siphon too much and sucks the water level down to the siphon break holes, so I assume I need to add an air-pump to counter that and dial in.

Twisty added to keep the spray from making a lot of noise. Marineland corner flow setup, they drill holes under the 90 on the return to help fill the chamber I guess.









When adding the hose to make a strong and quieter siphon- sucks level down to the holes. Need to add an airpump I guess.


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

The hole under the 90 on the return is a back siphon preventer. It sucks air in to break the siphon from the return line during a power outage.

I am not sure how far that rigid airline vent is sticking down into the elbow but it shouldn't go down past the inner edge of the pvc elbow and you may want to consider using a larger diameter tube to get more air in and prevent the siphon from forming.

I am not sure you understand my earlier response by saying that the pump is keeping up with the system. The pump IS the system and determines the turnover rate and water levels. You cannot drain down any more than the pump can pump up (more on this below).

Looking at your setup your drain is very restrictive. It was not a good idea to use vinyl tubing and that valve assembly and hose barbs. You would have gotten much better water flow if you used the standard pool hose drain tubing.

What is likely happening is that your drain line is periodically filling with water completely. This causes the water to rise in the overflow box. Once it covers the vent holes on the side of the durso a siphon forms. Siphons can drain faster than the pump is putting water into the aquarium. This causes the water to siphon down into the sump until the water level in the box gets below the vent holes and breaks the siphon. Then the process repeats.

You can add an air pump to try and force the siphon from forming but the best solution is to eliminate the restrictions in the drain line.

Andy


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## pelphrey (Apr 9, 2014)

This is what I would do with this setup. I would run the drain pipe as is, the air line is there to keep things quiet. I would swap out the return line in the weir and make that an emergency drain slightly higher than the water level. You can then run the return line up the back of the tank and buy a u-tube return line -


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## Manifest (Mar 8, 2015)

Narwhal72 said:


> The hole under the 90 on the return is a back siphon preventer. It sucks air in to break the siphon from the return line during a power outage.
> 
> I am not sure how far that rigid airline vent is sticking down into the elbow but it shouldn't go down past the inner edge of the pvc elbow and you may want to consider using a larger diameter tube to get more air in and prevent the siphon from forming.
> 
> ...


The hose in the pipe isn't too far in the hole.

Thanks. I thought my return was dependent on my siphon gph. Are you saying if my pump can return more water than the pipe is siphoning- the siphon will be stronger? It's a 1inch pipe / plumbing. I do have some pool hoses, had major issues finding attachments for it though. It's not too late for me to switch out, as I am still cycling. I'd rather return to the drawing board now than realize my setup isn't optimal.

I considered 2 drains, and hose up the back (as previous poster mentions). My over flow says 700- assuming 1 drain 1 return. I realize I am not near that-

When I close the airflow and create the true siphon, yes it sucks down to the break. AND water level in the tank goes up, I don't think the corner flow can keep up, honestly.


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## Manifest (Mar 8, 2015)

I changed the plumbing. Took the check valve out, ran 1inch hose in place. I believe this helped the drain as there's a higher water level in the sump now than prior to the change. I haven't optimized yet, I will be modifying the overflow chamber to take in water faster (teeth on entry is hindering) so I can tinker with the airflow making a better siphon.


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

Removing those restrictions allowed water to drain into the sump more easily. The rise in water level in the sump is due to their now being less water in the lines and inside the overflow box. This should stop the pulsing.

Keep in mind that a siphon is undesirable. You want it to be an atmospheric drain. That's the reason for those vents in the standpipe. Teeth can be a restriction on water flow. If your water level is up near the top of the opening of the teeth then widening them will help. If your water level in the aquarium display area is at the halfway point of the teeth then it is not being restrictive as there is still extra capacity to get water through the teeth.


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