# Nitrate Reactor



## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Does anyone have experience with a "nitrate reactor"? Is it feasible to consider as an adjunct to the usual methods, ie. Water changes, plants, etc??


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## awanderingmoose (Aug 11, 2016)

If you stay on top of your water changes, and especially if you have live plants as well, you don't need anything else.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Why the desire for a nitrate reactor?


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

LOL.....I have no desire for a "nitrate reactor". Since I am new to the hobby I'm actually looking for expert advice on whether I SHOULD have a desire for it. Just cursory research on my part seemed that theoretically it may be worthwhile considering its anaerobic claim, limited water flow etc.


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## fmueller (Jan 11, 2004)

The emphasis is on 'claim'. In my estimation a nitrate reactor can not work in an aquarium environment, because for the tank you need highly oxygenated water, and for the reactor you would need oxygen free water. That just doesn't go together. In nature, aerobic and anaerobic areas are far apart. That just isn't possible in a tank.

I am looking forward to be proven wrong, but so far no luck!

If you find water changes a chore - I do! - they can be automated. It's easier and more effective than nitrate reactors.

http://www.fmueller.com/home/aquaristic ... wc-system/


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Thank you for the reply! Being a dentist, I can't tell you the number of gadgets, gimmicks, toys, etc. that I have accumulated over the years all claiming revolutionary results. They all fall in the category "if it's too good to be true, it probably is!" The Nitrate Reactor I think falls into this category as well. Water changes for me is quite simple since my sink is just beneath my tank!


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

I used something I saw on YouTube which has been a win-win for me. I put a planter on top of my large aquarium that I made from a plastic 6" x 24" planter I bought at Lowes. I filled it with lava rock and run tank water through it with a 50 gph power head that I run at about 30 gph. I put cuttings from a pothos plant in it and I now have a lovely plant that covers the top back of the tank that removes nitrate from the water. And, extra bacteria colonies in the lava rock; so maybe it's a win-win-win...


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Great Idea!! Very resourceful!!


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Do you recall the YouTube link?? Really like to see that!


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Keep in mind that even if plants are removing nitrate, you would still want to be doing 50% weekly PWC.

What is the goal, Dr. Bob?


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## Lee79 (Nov 7, 2017)

If your sink is that close, you could probably set up a drip system very easily.


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Let me give you a summary of my situation:
-55 gal 
-Fully cycled
-15 Peacocks
-3 Plecos
-4 Catfish
- White sand substrate 
-2 Marineland 400's Aquaclear sponge/charcoal in 2nd canister
- 1 Medium Power head
- 50% water change weekly
- Loads of Texas Holey Rock
-Monthly rock removal/vacuuming sand
- Anubius plants in tank/Pothos rear posterior
- LED Light with programmable intensity 
Nitrates are starting to creep up. The API kit is tough to read....slight gradations in coloration between 10 nd 20 are quite difficult to read although I feel very important. Just a little paranoid since everything else is going well. The tank is in operation about 8 weeks and haven't had any fatalities......Plecos are keeping the algae under control... your thoughts


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Between 10ppm and 20ppm is perfect. Just change 50% weekly and you will be fine.

Probably no need for 3 plecos adding to the bioload...one/tank is usually right to make sure there is enough algae for them to eat.

With 15 peacocks, I assume you have a mixed-gender, single species tank. If you are doing all-male I would reduce the number of fish in a 55G.


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

My sink is luckily directly right under the tank. What does a drip system entail just out of curiosity?/???!!


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

Dr Bob said:


> My sink is luckily directly right under the tank. *What does a drip system entail just out of curiosity?/???!!*


An drilled overflow and a constant source of water ...


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## Old Newbie (Feb 18, 2017)

Dr Bob said:


> Do you recall the YouTube link?? Really like to see that!


Here is the link; it is a King of DIY video for an over head sump filter. I just used the idea for the container, pump and return and filled it with lava rock and plant clippings instead of filter media.






As was mentioned by another member, this will not replace doing water changes, but will reduce nitrates. I also attached hose to the bulkhead drain to reduce noise.


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## Lee79 (Nov 7, 2017)

Dr Bob said:


> My sink is luckily directly right under the tank. What does a drip system entail just out of curiosity?/???!!


There are many options to achieve the end goal, but the basic concept is simple. You have a continuous trickle of fresh water (for a 55 it would literally be a drip) usually around 20% of the total volume per day and the excess is pumped out or you can use an overflow. I pump mine, but since you have gravity on your side, a HOB overflow would work perfectly.

I started using a drip system two years ago, and honestly I can't see doing it any other way. I only change my water when I am vacuuming sand and cleaning my rocks - which is about every six to eight weeks.

This guy is where I first saw the idea 




***Very important to note: it is easy to strip chlorine from your water source with activated carbon (I use a .5 micron carbon filter made by spetraPure ) but monochloramine is a different animal. As far as I know, it has to be removed using a dechlorinatoring agent, so no way to really go straight from the tap to the tank. You need to check with your local water company to know what is in your water supply.


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## Methodical2 (Feb 11, 2019)

fmueller said:


> ...http://www.fmueller.com/home/aquaristic ... wc-system/


I did not read the build article, but why you do it?


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Thanx everyone for the awesome advice!! I think the "Nitrate Reactor" issue is dead. Let me get a few more thoughts on your water drip systems. First of all I'm getting mixed results with the API test. My nitrate kit expires in 2023. Results are definitely pink/red. I took a sample to my local fish supplier whose API expires in 2021...results were still yellowish?? If I believe mine...to what degree??!! How do you quantify the color!!?? The color gradation between 10-20+ is really subjective!! If I believe the supplier, there is absolutely no concern.....I took a water sample to a local water company for analysis and waiting for the results....comparing tap and aquarium water......interesting

Dual question now.... Water Drip systems..should I consider a drip system considering the proximity of my tank directly over a sink....or just rely on weekly 50% water changes??


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Drip systems if your water is a well and there is no chlorine saves you changing the water. But chlorine or chloramines like most publically provided water can make it more challenging.


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

I'm actually curious as to how you have a sink right under a 55G tank ... is the sink on a different floor of the structure ?


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

LOL...Very good question. I have a cabinet bar with built in sink. A second tier shelf which I substantially reinforced with steel brackets is immediately behind it. The four ft tank sits on the shelf. I have easy, direct access to water, plumbing and drain.


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## Lee79 (Nov 7, 2017)

Dr Bob said:


> Thanx everyone for the awesome advice!! I think the "Nitrate Reactor" issue is dead. Let me get a few more thoughts on your water drip systems. First of all I'm getting mixed results with the API test. My nitrate kit expires in 2023. Results are definitely pink/red. I took a sample to my local fish supplier whose API expires in 2021...results were still yellowish?? If I believe mine...to what degree??!! How do you quantify the color!!?? The color gradation between 10-20+ is really subjective!! If I believe the supplier, there is absolutely no concern.....I took a water sample to a local water company for analysis and waiting for the results....comparing tap and aquarium water......interesting
> 
> Dual question now.... *Water Drip systems..should I consider a drip system considering the proximity of my tank directly over a sink....or just rely on weekly 50% water changes??*


Yes, definitely consider it. It will change your life. Just having the tank hard plumed to a drain and water supply makes life easier even if you don't use a drip system.

The first step though, is to call your water company to find out what they put in the water to make it safe to drink. If they use chloramine, that makes it very difficult to set up a drip system because you don't want that in your tank and it has to be taken out using chemicals. Chloramine is a combination of ammonia and chlorine, neither of which you want in your water. I have seen claims by filter manufactures that this can be filtered out, but it just does not hold up to testing over any reasonable amount of usage, even if you chain multiple filters together.

If they only use chlorine, your good. A .5 micron carbon filter will effectively remove chlorine from tap water. These are commonly used in multi-stage R/O filters for drinking water and the aquarium hobby. The filters are only rated to purify a specified amount of water before they exceed their useful life. For me that is three per year on my 150 gallon capacity system (display and sump).

Just being honest here, do your own research and draw your own conclusions. I advocate for what works for me and has made the hobby more enjoyable for me. I am not an expert, I am just passing on what I've picked up through the years


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

A number of years ago I did try out some of the nitrate reactors. I think they all worked to some extent but one was very effective. I set up a 75 gallon tank as a demonstration and steeled myself not to do any water changes on that tank, except when removing fish. A 4" thick block of CellPore, or 4 stacked 1" blocks would remove all the nitrate after a start up time of a month. The claimed start up time was several months. I used the tank to grow up cichlid fry, loaded it with adult fish, tried various fish out, and growth rates were as good as any tank getting regular water changes. Having well water at the time perfect for many hard water cichlids, I could and did do frequent and extreme water changes. After two years I just could not tolerate avoiding water changes and began doing them on that tank too. It was an expensive endeavor to cover the bottom of a tank with four inches of CellPore.

In my opinion two things put the company quickly out of business. 1. The CellPore was expensive, and 2. I still have almost all the CellPore I bought in the 1980's. Only in the last year or two has it shown signs of aging and getting brittle. I tend to use it in compressiceps tanks, not to avoid water changes, but because they are sensitive fish to ammonia and need all the help they can get. In the saltwater hobby, it might just make sense because money is no object anyway while outfitting a marine tank, but freshwater is easy to come by in comparison to artificial saltwater. And I have no idea where you could obtain a similar product.


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Thank you very much for the incredibly informative reply. There is a ton of valuable information here from years of experience!! Very, very helpful since I am a neophyte but learning by leaps and bounds...


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

FYI.......I have been a little paranoid with this nitrate testing, hence all my questions concerning dealing with it. I presently use the API kit for analysis. The problem arises with this primitive color system. The gradations between 10-20+ are subjective. Different light backgrounds give a multitude of variations, from the aquarium light to natural light to artificial light. My result I felt was in the 20 range. Still skeptic me had the water professionally tested to ascertain the exact reading. I was amazed when it came back 8mg/L which is 8ppm!! What good is this color test if the results are that far off???!! Your thoughts.....


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

So 8ppm is close to 10ppm and you should have a good calibration of the API colors for ongoing.

The exact ppm is not important as long as you are well under 40ppm and yet you have some nitrate.

I take the tube outside and hold it against the color chart.


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## Dr Bob (Jan 22, 2019)

Makes sense...outside it is


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