# The KISS Filter DIY Project (with pictures)



## Rivermud

*The KISS Filter*
Keep It Simple Stupid

I've been toying with filters and whatnot for my entire fish keeping career. I have a nasty habit of tinkering with things even when they work just fine. Well, anyway I decided to adopt a few new tanks recently and I wanted to recycle some old parts. I tinkered with many ideas and have made a few DIY setups in the last month. I feel this one was a stroke of genius and I'm dumbfounded at how simple it was. So without further delay. The KISS Filter.










As I said it's simple. Here is a list of supplies.

*1:* One 3/4 inch Thinwall PVC pipe. Mine is Cresline PVC SDR 21 200 PSI PR Water at 73 degrees f 1120 NSF pw ASTM D 2241 PPFA 070729an1a5 (for the detail oriented) This can be found at any plumbing store even the Home Dumpster.

*2:* One 3/4 inch cap for said pipe.. again you can find this anywhere you find the pipe. Use beer sparingly.









*3:* One Powerhead. I used one I had laying around. You'll want to make sure the powerhead you are using is of the 3/4 inch standpipe variety, not the mini 1/2 inch. Mine is an Aquaclear 50.









*4:* One standard house filter insert. This can be found at Lowes, the Dumpster.. any plumbing place. There are dozens of varieties of these filters so choose the one that you like best. This is the beauty of this project, different levels of filtration.









*Tools:*
A hacksaw, sharp knife, or box cutter. Anything that will cut the thin wall pipe.

*Instructions:*
Cut a 1/2 inch piece from the pipe and set it aside. Cut a 1.5 inch piece from the pipe and stick it in the cap as shown in the photo above. The cap then gets inserted into the bottom side of the filter to plug the hole. The best part is that the pipe is the exact diamter to fit in the hole quite snug. Now, place the half inch peice of pipe over the powerhead intake, another thing of beauty... it's the exact correct inside diameter to fit snug. Now slide the powerhead into the top of the filter and viola.. jobs done. It looks clean and sharp and does a fantasic job as a particulate filter or even a bio filter depending on which filter you choose to use. The one in the picture is a 2 micron carbon inpregnated filter. These filters can be found in many different arrays, choose the best for your situtation.. heck make a few of these and use them for multiple [/b][/u]purposes.. what a great way to use old powerheads.


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## Tezr

I wiped out an entire tank once in 12 hours using a home water filter on a power head. Do not know the brand but I am guessing it had some anti mold ingredients.


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## Rivermud

Well, that would be a great reason to read what you are buying. The home filters have a direct list of exactly what they do. However I find it odd that any drinking water filter would wipe out your tank considering we ingest the water so it should be fine for your tank. If your tank was wiped out by the filter I would look for another root cause before blaming a drinking water filter. I know of atleast a half dozen other people that use these filters now and never heard of such an issue. Over-Stocked uses the house filters, I've used one for the past 2 weeks.. 0 issues. I'm even using a carbon impregnated filter, though I doubt I will continue to use one and will probably switch to a 30 micron or larger filter. Gotta love the 2 micron filter am using now though.. talk about crystal clear water.. wow

Before









After









Close-up









It may be hard to tell, but the water is much much clearer. I originally had this filter hooked up in a canister. Sadly the 50 gallon tank it was attached to developed a leak so I took the filter down. I was just sitting here the other day talking about sponge filters when the idea hit me.. and poof here it is.. simple, cheap, easy to replace... heh I suppose if you really wanted to you could run the filter with air lol


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## ercnan

I did the same basic thing a couple years ago, and it worked just fine. I used the entire assembly as a polisher connected to the end of a sump output. The small micron carts. do wonders for polishing, but do tend to clog fairly fast.
I tend to "fix" things that are not broke as well, which has the nasty side effect of keeping ME broke, and with tons of extra "shtuff" scattered about here and there.


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## Rivermud

LOL.. I hear ya. I am very impressed with this little filter and its polishing abilities are amazing. One flat amazingly crystal clear tank.


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## OceanDevil

When you pull it out for cleaning, does it make a mess?


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## Rivermud

well i doubt it.. though i've never pulled it out


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## Hoosier Tank

The Devil you say! I feel like Homer Simpson slapping himself upside the head "DOOO". I have been thinking in the back of my head how to rig up something easy and cheap using these. Even thought about buying the whole home unit an making a H.O.B. unit. Because I to am a tinkerer and since my house has a well, I have everything needed including the filters laying around.... plus I can remember the parts list!
Thanks for the post 8)


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## Rivermud

:lol: Glad I could help :thumb:


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## bones06

This is a great idea, I have lots of miscellaneous pond pumps, filters, and hoses just sitting in a box. I can't wait to get out in the garage and start inventing stuff too. I will blame you when my wife comes looking for me, and wonders why I'm hiding in the garage


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## bulldogg7

I made one of these a while back when I was changing my house filter. Worked good, When I changed the filter I just slipped a panty-hose leg over it to catch the stuff. Don't think it was really necessary. Eventually my powerhead went out, it was a cheapo but lasted 6 years. This filter setup works great, you can get cheap refills, even carbon filled ones if you like.


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## Rivermud

I've used 4 different types of filters so far and I will say the 20's-50's seem to do a fine job. The 1-2 microns filters seem to reduce flow after a couple of weeks so I am guessing they just evenutally get clogged in that environment.. but still, 2 weeks for 3 bucks isn't bad for that kind of filtration. As was posted before as well, they can be re-charged. It's like a smart mans sponge filter.


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## MaineGuy

what filter did you use. i looked at HD and the cheapest one was $11 for a 5-12micron the normal 20s were like $25.
any body find a exceptable filter at a reasonable price?


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## Chief1013

Is it me, I cannot see the pictures..??


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## Aquanist

Chief1013 said:


> Is it me, I cannot see the pictures..??


I'd put my money on your computer rather than your eyesight.


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## under_control

MaineGuy said:


> what filter did you use. i looked at HD and the cheapest one was $11 for a 5-12micron the normal 20s were like $25.
> any body find a exceptable filter at a reasonable price?


Wow... are you getting robbed? I can get a pack of 2 micron filters(3) for 6 bucks at menards.

OP--glad you found a way to make this work for you. I still love my canister filter setup with these filters that we talked about in your other thread.(this is over_stocked..._)


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## Hoosier Tank

under_control said:


> MaineGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> what filter did you use. i looked at HD and the cheapest one was $11 for a 5-12micron the normal 20s were like $25.
> any body find a exceptable filter at a reasonable price?
> 
> 
> 
> Wow... are you getting robbed? I can get a pack of 2 micron filters(3) for 6 bucks at menards.
Click to expand...

No doubt! Go to Wal-mart I think the twin pac is like $7. Now if you get the charcoal impregnated ones they are more, but not that much... Shop around.


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## Tezr

Rivermud said:


> Well, that would be a great reason to read what you are buying. The home filters have a direct list of exactly what they do. However I find it odd that any drinking water filter would wipe out your tank considering we ingest the water so it should be fine for your tank. If your tank was wiped out by the filter I would look for another root cause before blaming a drinking water filter. I know of atleast a half dozen other people that use these filters now and never heard of such an issue. Over-Stocked uses the house filters, I've used one for the past 2 weeks.. 0 issues. I'm even using a carbon impregnated filter, though I doubt I will continue to use one and will probably switch to a 30 micron or larger filter. Gotta love the 2 micron filter am using now though.. talk about crystal clear water.. wow
> 
> It may be hard to tell, but the water is much much clearer. I originally had this filter hooked up in a canister. Sadly the 50 gallon tank it was attached to developed a leak so I took the filter down. I was just sitting here the other day talking about sponge filters when the idea hit me.. and poof here it is.. simple, cheap, easy to replace... heh I suppose if you really wanted to you could run the filter with air lol


I am not saying it would not work so do not take it that way. All I am adding is that I had a really bad experience. I did not think it was the filter element either and thought it was something else when it initially happened. I later used the 2nd of the 2 pack of elements on a different tank and lost 3 or 4 fish in a span of a few hours. I removed the element and the rest of the tank survived with no issues. It appeared as if the fish could not get enough O2 as they had expanded gills when they died. I just remember it being a 2 pack of 5 or 10 micron sized elements. My guess is that maybe that Brand might have some sort of additive to prevent mold growth or something that was stripping away the O2 content of the water. When I was looking for a filter I was so paranoid that I would not use the carbon ones because I was afraid of what else might have been in them for water sterilization.

We also consume water from the tap with no ill effects try putting that in your tank. Just because it does not harm a human does not make it automatically fish safe is all I am saying. Plus we only ingest it they depend on it for O2 as well.


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## MaineGuy

i found some at Lowes for $6.50 (twin pak) trying it tonight on some not so clear water.. lets see what happens


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## cichlid_junkie

I made a similar filter with a super cheap approach. I just cut a bunch of slits in a 3/4 inch foot long piece of PVC with my circular saw. Then I wrapped it with some batting from wal-mart (not the flame retardant stuff). My water stays crystal clear. Even if I stir it up my 900gph system cleans it up within an hour or so.

The only problem I have with it it there isn't much suface area on a 3/4 in pipe. I have to replace the batting every 4-6 days. I'd like to figure out a way to slip a larger diameter filter over my slitted PVC pipe to make it last longer between changes.

For extra filtering I just wrap the pipe twice with batting :thumb:

Also the batting is cheap. One bag of batting lasts me for over a year.


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## MaineGuy

got the 20 micron filters and used it on my 1/2" powerhead. just used the cone shaped bottom and insterted it into one end and took a end cap for a 1/2 pvc and pushed it into the other end. cleared up the water better than i have seen it yet. got to give this DIY a 2 thumps up for the brillant idea, ease of build and functionality

:thumb: :thumb:


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## Tezr

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ct ... tachmentlg


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## under_control

Tezr said:


> http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp19167/si1378642/cl0/aquaclearquickfilterattachmentlg
> http://akamai.edeal.com//images/catalog ... 037598.jpg[/img]


Thank you for linking to something that costs more and doesn't work as well. I have tried those. Nothing compares to how great these little cheapy filters can be.

Cichlid Junkie--your problem is EASILY solved. Figure out what size your power head intake is. Find a fitting that will fit it. Then get a step up to a 1 inch or 1.5 inch pipe. It may take a few different bussings to get it where youw ant it, but they are like 45 cents and you can glue them so there is no fear. I found that by adapting up to do two 90 degree turns did lots. It makes the unit more compact and is less unsightly. This way it can be hidden with the filter running horizontal with the powerhead above it. You can do this with one or two 90 degree fittings.


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## Mcdaphnia

under_control said:


> Tezr said:
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp19167/si1378642/cl0/aquaclearquickfilterattachmentlg
> http://akamai.edeal.com//images/catalog ... 037598.jpg[/img]
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for linking to something that costs more and doesn't work as well. I have tried those. Nothing compares to how great these little cheapy filters can be.
> 
> Cichlid Junkie--your problem is EASILY solved. Figure out what size your power head intake is. Find a fitting that will fit it. Then get a step up to a 1 inch or 1.5 inch pipe. It may take a few different bussings to get it where youw ant it, but they are like 45 cents and you can glue them so there is no fear. I found that by adapting up to do two 90 degree turns did lots. It makes the unit more compact and is less unsightly. This way it can be hidden with the filter running horizontal with the powerhead above it. You can do this with one or two 90 degree fittings.
Click to expand...

Or simplify.... cut a rectangle of your floss mat that will reach from bottom to top of the tank. Poke a hole in it near the bottom.

Put a few inches of tubing on your powerhead outflow if it needs it for this. Push the extended end through the hole in the floss.

Set the powerhead in a back bottom corner of the tank and push the floss against the walls to form a triangle in the corner. The less fittings and tubing you add to the powerhead, the more power it has.

Since all of the floss is now vertical, you don't get those dead spots where the floss rests against the bottom or has debris landing on top of it. If you want to doll it up a little you can add rails to put a pretty curve into the floss as suggested below.

http://www.janrigter.nl/mattenfilter/

....or you can let the suction of the pump hold the floss in place.


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## Tezr

Granted the filter I linked is not to be used full time it is just meant to be a polisher but the cost is nil especially since you do not need an adapter or time spent fabricating (do not get me wrong fabricating is half the fun) and it is a 1 micron size. I spend more than that on ghost shrimp every week. I do like the filter type that Mcdaphnia described above. Plus I got lazy I just cut a slit in the top of some AQ 70 sponges and stuck it over the intakes of my power heads.


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## MaineGuy

ok i'm with Tezr on this one. i used a 20micron filter and it just about killed my fish after 3 days. it did clear the water up nicely to good i guess. the fish were all crowded in one corner gasping for air it looked like. i took out the filter and did a 10g wc (30g tank) added a bunch of aquarium salt and some stress. an hour later they appeared to be getting better. 1 died and 1 doesnt look like he is going to make it. IF i used it again i would not leave it in more than a day and a half.


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## bulldogg7

Is this mystery fish loss due to the filters getting clogged and creating an area of low pressure, and basically boiling the oxygen out of the water? Like popping a a champagne bottle? Once it hits low pressure all the absorbed gases expand and release?


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## under_control

MaineGuy said:


> ok i'm with Tezr on this one. i used a 20micron filter and it just about killed my fish after 3 days. it did clear the water up nicely to good i guess. the fish were all crowded in one corner gasping for air it looked like. i took out the filter and did a 10g wc (30g tank) added a bunch of aquarium salt and some stress. an hour later they appeared to be getting better. 1 died and 1 doesnt look like he is going to make it. IF i used it again i would not leave it in more than a day and a half.


I assure you that it wasn't this filters fault. I have used them in 6 different tanks from livebearers to discus, to malawi. Many of my tanks these cartridges(and their designated housings) are my only filtration.

Either it was somehow contaminated or something else went wrong.

It shouldn't create any deads spots either, as youa ren't removing any of your filtration to use this.


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## under_control

bulldogg7 said:


> Is this mystery fish loss due to the filters getting clogged and creating an area of low pressure, and basically boiling the oxygen out of the water? Like popping a a champagne bottle? Once it hits low pressure all the absorbed gases expand and release?


I don't even understand how you came to this conclusion. You aren't removing your other filtration so there is no dead spot. It does not get anywhere near enough to boil the oxygen out, or remove much at all, especially since you have other filtration running and should have surface agitation still.

The champagne bottle refrence makes little to no sense at all with an biological issue this filter or your tank could create.


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## Tezr

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=160948



Aquanist said:


> Something to do with pressure and nitrogen and oxygen gases separating in pressure or such - pump draws too much water out through the filter in relation to the amount of water actually pushing through the filter media.. In large scale centrifugal pumps this can result in some real problems such as "exploding" pump chambers.. In aquaria, the only problem I've heard is this bubble-issue. But as Mcdaphnia pointed out restricting the outflow should solve the situation.


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## under_control

I have done experiments involving this in lab and you would need a pump of over 3000gph to sustain any effect tot his sort. Your run of the mill power head will not cause this sort of effect.


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## Tezr

volume per hour pumped is not the issue. The restricted flow due to the small micron opening of the input is the issue. Please elaborate on your experiments for example what type pump, what results you were measuring. Your blanket statements of scientific experimentation lend little to any relevance to what is being discussed here.

There are countless variables in what is being discussed. I know I am not trying to say it cannot be done just to watch for any signs of abnormality if you decide to try it. It seems that you are taking some sort of personal offense to anyone saying that there could be issues with the set up.


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## bulldogg7

Sorry if I struck a nerve, just wondering why this caused a die off. I've used the household filters before, not problems. Going to incorporate them into my diy canister next time I take it apart, figure I can fit about 6-7 in there. 
The champagne thing was an analogy; contents under pressure... tank is under (atmospheric pressure), both have dissolved gases, reducing the pressure (won't not boil the water but may release some of those gases). Not by much, but doing it over and over and over may add up. Additional filtration would counteract it. Think it would be great for a fry tank if it caused the surface agitation.


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## Rivermud

When too much of a vacuum is created by an impeller it will cavitate. This throws the micro bubbles you see into the aquarium. This is often caused in the aquarium society by having clogged mechanical filtration. It does not cause dissolved oxygen to release of the aquarium. I will not argue that some of you may have had gasping fish but I am faily certain that it is not caused from removing dissolved oxygen due to the micron filtration. 20 microns is not really all that small. I've used as fine as 2 micron filters in this setup. I have also used filters such as the Hot Magnum that was rated at 1 micron after loading it with the powder. Not once have I had an issue where I removed the dissolved oxygen. I have also used filter floss and when packed tight I would bet it has better than 20 micron filtration easilly.

I am going to guess you probably don't have something to break the waters surface correctly which causes issues with the gas exchange in general. This WILL cause fish to gasp eventually. I've had powerheads fail to provide adequate surface agitation in an aquarium before. In fact it was very recently with a sponge type filter I had been testing. I saw a boil on the weaters surface but it did not cause enough agitation to break up the surface for gas exchange. What Happened?? Boat loads of algea in days, then bigger issues. But shrug, those aren't the issue. I put an airstone in the tank and poof, much healthier and happier..

I'll stand behind this filter design any day and who you a running version that has used multiple types of filters. Mine all cost less than 5 each and were all 50 micron or better filtration. I love hte little filter. I'ts easy to hide, easy to maintain, cheap, and works better than almost any mechanical filter i've ever seen on the mass market.

The filter might be the root cause of your problem ONLY in the fact that you are not agitating the water enough to promote proper gas exchange. I'm also going to say that you should really only consider the KISS filter setup as a mechanical filter. It can be used as bio as well but there are much better ways to do bio filtration... besides the best bio filtration requires air and water.. ie wet dry..imho

Thank you everyone for the kudos on the idea.. I admit I got the idea after discussing another design with Over Stocked. The idea kinda blew me away while I was grumbling about a leak on my canister.. :lol: I hope everyone enjoys.. Maybe I'll write up a decent DIY on it later.. :thumb:


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## Tezr

When I added mine in my 55 gallon it was just to add additional filtration not as the only filtration. It was placed below the surface with out using the venturi to add in air to the output so it would not have added any surface agitation or oxygen to the water. I want to say it was rated at 5 micron or below and was the type with a plastic core and pleated filter material. I was also running a AC 300 and a Rena XP3. I do remember the filter putting out a lot of microbubbles but I did not realize they were a bad thing at the time.

If you could post the exact brand and model of the filter cartridge you are using it might prevent anyone from making the error I made. I did not want to believe it was the filter either but after a second round of deaths when trying another cartridge in a 30 gallon tank I had to concede that it was the probable cause.

You could also modify it to go onto the output and place a sponge from an AC as your prefilter thus preventing the cavitation.

It is a good cheap filter.


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## Rivermud

Odd Tezr, Like I said I do not doubt your experience. I must then assume the filter cartridge or something else as a prt of it was the issue. However these filter cartridges are used for drinking water. In fact many many many houses use them and a lot of aquariast get their water out of the faucet from these. If it is safe enough for me to use for drinking water I am sure not worried about it for aquarium water. If you were throwing micro bubbles from the filter then i suppose it's possible.. shurg. My take however is that if the 1 micron diatom filters do not kill fish then a 20 micron filter used for drinking water won't..

The sponge would not stop the cavitation.. Have you ever watched the air pockets that trail things that move through the water very fast or that water moves very fast over? Cavitation is a fancy word I am probably using incorrectly, it is used when oxygen gets under a boat and into the impeller when moving at high speed, the oxygen actually danages the impeller blades. Anyway, I think everyone knows what I am talking about now. I also might be dead wrong about the cavitation not being released disolved oxygen. If that is the case then anybody experiencing micro bubbles should reduce the flow of their pump with the adjuster on the powerhead or move to a more open filter.

Ok, this is good for a debate and I know people like Walter, Mcdaph and the rest are around to discuss the issue. I'll retract my original statement after much discussion with my cousin. The air bubbles may very well be extracted oxygen and other gasses from the water column as the pump is pulling too fast for the water to penetrate the filter, especially after it has clogged up a bit. So, quite possibly I've never experienced an issue with micro bubbles in the filter setup because I use a low flow pump. The filter material itself is not what is killing your fish.. It can't be if its the same filter type for household drinking water we are using.

Thoughts??? Calling the engineer minds again


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## Tezr

I was using a penguin 550 powerhead on mine which is rated for 145 gph.

Another view could be that the restriction was causing the impeller to heat up thus raising the immediate water temp thus reducing the amount of dissolved O2 in the water coming from the powerhead.



> The explanation depends upon whether you are asking about oxygen dissolved in water, or the water itself. As far as the solubility of oxygen in water, that depends upon both temperature and pressure.
> At 20 Â°C, normal pressure, freshwater has Oxygen of: 9.1 mg/L = 100% saturation. As pressure decreases, more oxygen will escape, because the pressure is what keeps it in solution.
> Ever leave the top off a carbonated beverage over night? Is there any fizz left in the morning? No, because the dissolved gas was free to leave the liquid, because there is less pressure when the top is off than when it is on. The "pop" or hiss you hear when opening it shows the release of pressure because the soda is at a higher pressure than when the lid is off.
> 
> The amount of oxygen in solution also goes down, at same pressures, if you increase temperature, because as the temperature goes up, so does the ability of the molecules to move around. The more chaotic (higher temperature) the system becomes, the less and less oxygen it can hold.


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 937AApnsId

This is what I meant by the sponge prefilter.



Mcdaphnia said:


> If you have the outflow feeding a spray bar, close some of the holes. If you just have the open pipe or no pipe or tube at all on the outflow side, get some tubing and run it up to where you can put a flow control clamp on it. Like this.... http://www.pondbiz.com/home/pb1/page_11 ... clamp.html
> 
> or insert a plastic valve in the line and partially close it until the bubbles stop. (But not the water.  ) Remember the restriction should always be on the out flow side. If you look at the design, these filters violate that because the water is sucked out of the filter media, not blown into to it. If you flip the powerhead around to pump into the filter, it would be more correct but not as simple. You'd need a prefilter on the powerhead intake. Simple can be good, but as the filter media on this design starts to clog, the pump can overheat. That is no problem only if you have a pile of powerheads that you need to dispose of.


The sponge just keeps the big junk out of the impeller and then the smaller stuff is still removed by the cartridge before being pushed back into the aquarium.



Rivermud said:


> Odd Tezr, Like I said I do not doubt your experience. I must then assume the filter cartridge or something else as a prt of it was the issue. However these filter cartridges are used for drinking water. In fact many many many houses use them and a lot of aquariast get their water out of the faucet from these. If it is safe enough for me to use for drinking water I am sure not worried about it for aquarium water. If you were throwing micro bubbles from the filter then i suppose it's possible.. shurg. My take however is that if the 1 micron diatom filters do not kill fish then a 20 micron filter used for drinking water won't..
> 
> The filter material itself is not what is killing your fish.. It can't be if its the same filter type for household drinking water we are using.
> 
> Thoughts??? Calling the engineer minds again


I still disagree with the line of thinking that if something is safe for human consumption then it is safe for fish as well. My tap water has chloramine in it and to my knowledge this fine for human consumption but will kill a fish in a short period of time. Humans do not use the water for O2 like a fish does so it is not comparing apples to apples.

I am just an electronics tech not an engineer as I could never go through with the frontal labotamy (just kidding well kinda)


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## Rivermud

Tezr, I think you've had a bad experience and you've got it in your head that the filter itself was the issue. I saw your posts on MFK and I saw the post here. I also know of many people who use these filters without issue. The theory that you can separate disolved gasses is possible. However I do not agree with the thinking that the media itself is contaminating the tank. First, if thta were the actual issue then you fish would still have been suffering even after you removed the filter due to the particulate matter or chemicals release into the tank. They would have stayed suffering until water changes were done. Not until it was removed.

Mcdaphs comments there also included two things yours did not. First, you reverse the powerhead and blow into the media, second you put a valve for restricting the output. Both separate ideas, not pertaining to this filter but a similar issue in another thread speaking of micro-bubbles. Mcdaphs idea is that since these powerheads work on the reverse principal of our other filtration units, we simply turn it around, put on a pre-filter and blow into our mechanical. All well and fine however it still has the big problem of being reversed. Mechanical filtration goes before bio filtration. You could recreate his idea of the valve on the output though and restrict your flow thus reducing the vacuum created in the filter and stopping the micron bubbles which is in a sense exactly the same thing i said.. reduce the flow, only I said to use the flow restriction setting on the powerhead itself since they come with one.

Lastly, if the powerhead was creating heat like that it would be heating the aquarium. Your link actually backs up the idea of the vacuum releasing the disolved gasses, not so much the heat from the power head. The water would have to be very hot throughout the tank to release oxygen like that from superheating at the powerhead.

I'll admit the powerhead may be removing the oxygen. I doubt very mucht eh filter is releasing chemicals. The vacuum in the filter might very well be releasing the dissolved gasses causing the micro bubbles. So, I may have to edit the DIY to include a note about micro bubbles and high flow power heads. I'll stop short of toxins released by a drinking water filter.


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## bulldogg7

http://www.shopfilters.com/product_deta ... N+RS1%2DDS
These were the ones I used, 20micron.


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## moto_master

I just read through this whole thing, and even though I don't want to get myself into this argument, I feel the need to add my two cents. I can fully understand how the low pressure could cause the water to release some of it's oxygen, but I just don't see how this could be enough to suffocate your fish. Especially if you have any surface agitation, air pumps, etc. in the tank. I don't see the problem in turning the pump around so that it pumps the water into the filter, rather than out of it. That huge water filter would act more like a biological filter than a prefilter would. I'm still curious if there's a chance that some brands have some sort of chemicals in the filters. I would like to know what brand filter, and what type filter was used when the fish died.

Rivermud, I love your idea for this DIY project, and I'm interested in doing it myself. It would be awesome if you wrote that new DIY, and included better more detailed photos, and even a Caution in fine print stating peoples concerns (including the possibility of the filter releasing toxins into the water).

:thumb: :thumb:


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## Rivermud

I'm not going to write one with fine print detailing the possibility of the filters releasing chemicals into the water. I know of way to many people who use filters of this type in multiple systems without issue. Also, if you reversed the filter it would no longer simply attatch witha single piece of pvc thus making it more difficult. If i were to make it more difficult I would use the canisters for home filtration that these are used in, which I have done and several peole use as well. If these filters released toxins that could kill your fish then they would not be used a filtration for chemicals and particulate matter for drinking water. Think about it. While you are not running the water from your faucet, the water sits in these canisters. The water could sit in there say two to three weeks if you happen to be on vacation or something. If they leeched chemicals that could be hazardous they would certainly do it there... The only thing I would say period would be to read the label and packaging first. I'd also mention that people should clean or recharge their filters often to prevent issues with clogging causing a low pressure environment inside the filter. I would also state that if you experience micro bubbles turn down the flow of the pump as the micro bubbles COULD be an indicator of released disolved gasses.


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## Tezr

RiverMud,
The issue I was experiencing on MFK is in no way linked to this discussion as it was a separate tank and issue all together.

In the 2 situations I had I believe that the fatalities were caused by asphyxiation not necessarily from a toxin. The first tank was almost a complete loss and the only survivors were my Plecos and some fry that were gathered at the surface. Most of the dead had distended gill plates and a redness in the gill areas. The 2nd tank the dead looked the same and the ones surviving were gasping at the surface and panting. I performed a 50% water change and removed the cartridge and have not had any more losses from these tanks. Another variable is that both tanks were rift lake tanks (1st Malawi and the 2nd Tang) so maybe the high ph and gh also lend to causing the reduction of O2 or the fact that I depend on surface agitation for oxygenation and do not run airstones.

I guess I am not making my thoughts understandable but as McDaphina stated


> If you flip the powerhead around to pump into the filter, it would be more correct but not as simple. You'd need a prefilter on the powerhead intake.


 is exactly what I am trying to say in that you use a sponge or strainer to keep the big stuff out of your impeller and then on the output side place the cartridge to act as both a bio filter and also a polishing filter.



> Both separate ideas, not pertaining to this filter but a similar issue in another thread speaking of micro-bubbles.


 Umm actually that thread was started by someone using a filter he made after reading your thread so it does pertain to this filter.

and lastly I have never stated that I thought it released toxins but since I did not have the label I cannot state that for fact.

I think your DIY thread will be a good one with the added small print about microbubbles and maybe a line to watch for gasping or simply using the venturi (the little hose input just prior to the output) to add in some fresh air to the output stream.


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## Mcdaphnia

bulldogg7 said:


> http://www.shopfilters.com/product_detail.asp?T1=OMN+RS1%2DDS
> These were the ones I used, 20micron.


It does not require mysterious chemicals or scifi physics to explain how a filter sleeve could strip oxygen out of the water. With the water being sucked in, detritus could be pulled into the filter and then use up the oxygen as the water passes through.


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## bulldogg7

I didn't have any problems with mine. I was just trying to figure out what happened in Tezr's tank. I loved my setup, Am planning on putting them into my DIY canister next time I clean it out.
Have an air powered version ready for my hospital tank in case I get any fry. Just a perforated pipe inside with an air stone.


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## Rivermud

Both are plausible. Clogged filtration, nitrosomes, they require oxygen. It's all there. I just don't like when hocus pocus and mysticism get added into the hobby. It absolutely blows my mind, some of the things people believe. Things like copper kills fish, pvc tubing should never be used in water, etc... I don't want to add to it either. These filters are perfectly aquarium safe, its their use and maintenance that causes issues, just like any mechanical filter. IMHO.


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## Tezr

I think my errors were as follows:

used too small of a micron filter.
used too strong of a powerhead.
did not use the venturi for some gas exchange.
placed at the bottom of the tank and aimed to not cause surface disruption (was trying a 1 2 combo of polishing filter and detris sweeper).

Those things combined is what I am guessing caused my issues.

I will be trying a new version in the future.


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## ashilli48

Since no one has been arguing over this subject in a while I thought I would stir up some trouble, LOL, j/k.

Two days ago I built the exact set-up as pictured on page 1. The tank is a 29g and was relatively clear but I wanted to "test" the set-up before going to the 55's.

Within the first 24 hours the water was remarkably clearer, so I left it in place and set-up another one in one of my 55's. This set-up is running great and getting clearer.

However, the 29 has become seriously clouded with a white haze I have never seen before in this tank.

As of this moment the 29 is still hazy and the 55 is getting clear. Any ideas on what may have happened? Coincidence?

Let me know if I need to provide any more info. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## under_control

Did you leave your old filter on? Have you tested water? Did you rinse the cartridges?


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## ashilli48

Yes the old filter was left in. No I have not tested the water, my test kit will be here this week (ran out of some, kids emptied the other, etc. ). Rinsed the heck out of the new filter before installing.

Did a 30% water change, water is still slightly cloudy. There are 5+ fry I have never seen before now out and about loving the environment. All other adults and juvies are fine.

The 55 is still running the same set-up with no clouding.


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## ashilli48

Water is pristine in both tanks now! Not sure what the problem was, must not have rinsed the filtered very well initially.


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## Mcdaphnia

Will the real KISS filter please stand up! I saw something totally simple at Swiss Tropicals that makes this KISS filter look like a moon rocket. http://www.nasm.si.edu/exhibitions/gal1 ... sec384.htm

Plus the Swiss Tropicals filter can double as a tank divider.


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## ashilli48

I actually saw that the other day when you referenced "Hamburg Mattenfilters". I googled the topic and Swiss Tropical came up. You know something is simple and effective when a breeder sets it up!


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## Mcdaphnia

ashilli48 said:


> I actually saw that the other day when you referenced "Hamburg Mattenfilters". I googled the topic and Swiss Tropical came up. You know something is simple and effective when a breeder sets it up!


 I believe Discus Hans uses them too. I used to run these in all my larger tanks, but decided to go with higher tech filters. I am ready to go back.


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## beaker99

Below is the DIY filter I made using your idea:








Notice I have it plumbed into an UGJ.








Thank you for the great idea.


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## D-007

Wow, just came across this thread. Awesome idea.

beaker, how's the tank?


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## beaker99

Hi all
Well I finally got my tank up and running again, and I am using the DIY power head filter you see in the picture. However, my wife didn't like the pumps in the bottom center of the tank. So I moved them to hang from the back of the tank. Needless to say the UGJ idea went out the window with that. 
*Word of warning however. 
*The whole house water filters you buy in the hardware stores does not maintain well. In fact I rinsed mine out yesterday and they started clouding up the water. The idea is great, but I need to come up with another type of filter media.


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## beaker99

ashilli48 said:


> Since no one has been arguing over this subject in a while I thought I would stir up some trouble, LOL, j/k.
> 
> Two days ago I built the exact set-up as pictured on page 1. The tank is a 29g and was relatively clear but I wanted to "test" the set-up before going to the 55's.
> 
> Within the first 24 hours the water was remarkably clearer, so I left it in place and set-up another one in one of my 55's. This set-up is running great and getting clearer.
> 
> However, the 29 has become seriously clouded with a white haze I have never seen before in this tank.
> 
> As of this moment the 29 is still hazy and the 55 is getting clear. Any ideas on what may have happened? Coincidence?
> As mentions above I've had similar problems with my DIY power filter. I think the filter media of these whole house filters easily breaks down when in use. My tank clouded up, but it doesn't seem to harm the fish. Of course I do have two cascade 300 filter going as well. And I do use the venturi action of the power head for gas exchange.
> 
> Let me know if I need to provide any more info. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## D-007

beaker, what brand of powerheads did you use?


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## beaker99

D-007 said:


> beaker, what brand of powerheads did you use?


The picture above shows the power heads. They are Hagen Aqua clear 802's. 
By the way, my tank did finally clear up.









I don't know if either the power head filters or the cascade filters cleared it.


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## D-007

Thanks for the clarification - I wasn't sure if they were Hagen's or not; hence the question.


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## ashilli48

I found out from a guy that has been doing this for decades and he said the white film comes from the filter itself. You have to rinse the **** out of it before putting it into the filter or it will make your tank look like someone poured milk into it. He also said, even though he had never experienced it, that it may have contributed to some of the deaths experienced by some of us.


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## beaker99

Modified diy filter. 
Below are a few picures of an alternate way to do this diy filter.









First get a drink bottle fromthe dollar store and cut out the bottom, and also cut out a hole in the top to take either a 1/2" or 3/4" pvc fitting. Then hot glue the fitting to the hole in the top.









The place 3 or 4 plastic scubbies inside.









Hook it up to a power head, and away you go. 
Doesn't look like much, but really pulls the gunk out of the water. 
Any ideas how to doctor this up so that it doesn't look so bad? I was thinking of either glueing artifial plants to it, or rocks.


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## ben1988

paint the bottle black....


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## under_control

Why use like 5 adapters. Just shove the powerhead in the hole. It'll stay...


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## beaker99

under_control said:


> Why use like 5 adapters. Just shove the powerhead in the hole. It'll stay...


Good point. However, if you don't have a power with enough suction you might need the pvc fittings.


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## under_control

Nah, cut a hole just smaller than the filter input.


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## aklee987

To those of you who have done this, how "big" of a powerhead are you using? By "big", I mean how many gph? Is there a general consensus or guidelines?


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## beaker99

aklee987 said:


> To those of you who have done this, how "big" of a powerhead are you using? By "big", I mean how many gph? Is there a general consensus or guidelines?


I would think it would depend on the size of your tank. If you cut the top end out for the pwer head and it doesn't fit snug enough I imagine you could just hot glue it to the cone shaped adapter that comes with most power heads for ugf use. 
I'm using an aqua clear 80 which puts out about 400 gph. And I'm using three on a 120g tank. 
Good luck


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## Rivermud

didn't think i'd see this thread on the front page again after so long. it's a solid little filter.. i still use the original one I made. There are things you can do to improve the original design but for simplicity sake it's still a solid design. As for the alternate idea... while it is a working filter, it's a bio filter rather than mechanical imo. There are many better alternatives for bio filtration. Bio filtration works best when combined with oxygen.


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## newday

I likely got my idea for external version from Rivermud's thread. But I started this thread on the same solution with home water filters. They work fine, no issues with killing fish. See my final filter design http://cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... &&start=15 created a venturi output to get water circulation behind the rocks. It's all hidden away under my tank. Easy access to change the $2 filter's.

It's still running with 5 micron that lasts for weeks as I don't care about flow rate since I have 2 x Eheim filters for flow rate running anyway.

I built a pond this year and had run off dirt suspended in the pond so guess what design I used to filter out dirt in the water (with no issues and it worked great). Cheap and easy to deploy when needed by connecting to output into my bog filter full of plants to filter the pond water.


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## Rivermud

yep.. ran those a lot too.. had one of those on the tank when i came up with the quick little filter idea.


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## PfunMo

Reading through, there seems to be agreement that sometimes it works great but others have fish dying. Let me try to boil it down some. One, there are lots of these filters filtering different micron sizes. Two, we want to flush them really good before using. Sometimes even after flushing them really, really good we still get a white haze some have called microbubbles. When we get these "microbubbles" fish tend to die. Sometimes almost immediately. If I have all that pretty straight, I might have an explanation as to what is happening. How about this idea? One, different filters are made with different items inside to the filter. Man-made items are used for fairly porous filtering. Carbon is an old standby used a lot that filters smaller micron sizes. When you get down to really fine filtering, diatomaceous earth (DE) is used. Sounds like the ones meeting no problems use filters without DE or do not bang them around enough to knock the DE loose. Those who have had failures perhaps unwittingly get DE filters and shoot themselves in the foot by "cleaning" them so well the DE is loosened enough to come out. Any chance the "microbubbles" are really DE? In pool water it looks like a cloud of milk which soon disappears making you wonder what you were seeing. We can eat/drink it or swim in it with no harm. Fish gills may not pass it. Stopped up, swollen gills, quick death? Any of this sound right to the rest of you? :fish: 
I'm just standing here on the sidelines so give me your best shots. opcorn:


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## under_control

DE and Carbon are NOT used in these micron filters. These are designed for home drinking water. They are made from filter thread.


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## PfunMo

The one in the picture is a 2 micron carbon inpregnated filter. These filters can be found in many different arrays, choose the best for your situtation.. heck make a few of these and use them for multiple [/b][/u]purposes.. what a great way to use old powerheads.[/quote]

Perhaps we are talking about two different filters? The quote above is from page one of this thread. opcorn:


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## PfunMo

On Jan 20 2008 , Rivermud wrote: "My take however is that if the 1 micron diatom filters do not kill fish then a 20 micron filter used for drinking water won't.. "

Would diatom filters not have DE as part of thier makeup? :wink:


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## Rivermud

The filter I found and used were all fiber-wound. I may have used a carbon impregnated filter once but I have my own personal opinions on using carbon in a tank and those don't have any merit here. I have never seen any milky coloration, ever. I have seen micro-bubbles cause by (my best guess) some sort of vacuum effect due to the filter actually trying to pull more water than what the filter can handle. I've seen this happen with poorly maintained filters before.. hot magnums etc.. The main poster of the cloudy water issue is still posting completely unrelated things to his original issue which was discussed in another thread on another forum.

This filter is the exact same thing we use to filter the water for our house. It connects directly to the water supply line and feeds the water at your faucet. This water can sit in the same chamber for weeks while we are on vacation so I am doubting the leeching is the culprit. Most of these faucets run around 2-2.5gph max flow, they are also run under pressure instead of a vacuum. Thus my only guess as to the micro-bubbles. It's a simple fix.. turn the flow rate down. If you buy a filter and you get cloudy water.. test your water. If it's not a major bloom of some kind, buy a different filter.. they are literally under 3 bucks.


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## ashilli48

the cheaper the filter (carbon is used in this one I have) the more likely the film, in my personal experience. The film or milky water is coming from the filter. You can see it spewing from the mouth of the powerhead. Rinsing it thoroughly has ALWAYS helped once I knew what it was. I have been in 3 different homes with 3 different water supplies, using different powerheads etc, so the water was never an issue. Either way, this is a surmountable issue. Aside from that the filter is an EXCELLENT water polisher!


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## Malawi_Junkie

Fantastic Idea. So easy, I feel I have to try one of these out. Adding one to my sump to polish water before re-entering the system. Very practical I like it! I'll have to research some of these filters. How long did your 2 Micron filter last? How to recharge them?


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## tongareefer71

lowes has 2pack 30 micron white paper with blue ends for 7.46 just built this filter with a maxijet 1200 and all i can say is wow wow wow


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## Malawi_Junkie

Made one in about 30 min. and must say this thing rocks!!!! Outstanding performance and super cheap.


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## tongareefer71

just stopped by petsmart,,they have 1 micron carbon inpregnated for like 4 dollars,,would clog soon with my maxijet1200 but would polish great i bet,,although my 30 micron cellulose ones from lowes do fine just posting for those deciding what insert filters to use.


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## Rivermud

This has worked well for me for quite some time. I use it mainly for polishing. I have one that has ran for over a year in a fully planted tank as the only filtration and it's done quite well. I use more porous filters for long periods as they tend to take longer time to clog especially in my planted tank. I really do love to run these in my show tanks as the water gets crystal clear without having to use a high priced canister. thanks for the feedback.. oh, I did find something you might like to know.. I now use a sink plug for the cap rather than a pvc plug, the one i have is a push button style meaning that i can close or open it by pressing the middle of the plug allowing for easier removal of the filter in the tank without shutting everything off.


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## Rivermud

sorry that the picture are no longer showing up.. I have put in a request to edit the original post and fix the issue.. worst case, i'll just redo and repost...


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## ashilli48

just an update: This is definitely a solid idea. I have been using them since this thread started. Just have to re-iterate, from personal experience, rinse the **** outta the thing and you're good to go. :thumb:


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## T_Waters

If it is not to late to ask about this old thread...

I wish to rinse the cartridge/element before trying this filter, so how exactly HOW are you guys rinsing the filter elements before using them? By sticking the powerhead in a bucket of water, output into a sink thru a hose, and turning on the powerhead? Is that how you rinse them?

Or are you just soaking them in a pan of water?

Or are you brushing the filter element under a stream from a sink faucet (this is exactly how the directions say to clean a ceramic element used in an undersink filter)?

Thanks for any advice....


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## Deeda

I haven't tried this project but for my whole house sediment filter cartridges, I just rinse them thoroughly under the tap water to remove any loose debris and dust from the manufacturing process.


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## T_Waters

OK, thanks. I'm waiting for powerhead to arrive to give it a try...


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## T_Waters

Notes on the mysterious white milky bubbles:
I hooked up a 5 micron spun fiber sediment filter.
There was no output from the Cobalt MJ 1200 (260 GPH) powerhead, it could not pull water thru the cartridge!
I dismounted it and sort of squeezed element to squeeze out the air, remounted, turned power back on.
The PH sputtered, ejecting a cloud of milky substance (probably was micro bubbles).
10 seconds later, before I could turn it off, the output cleared out to completely pure and uncloudy.
And runs strong and cyrstal clear ever since.

Lesson learned: 
The 'milky' (dangerous to fish) substance results when the PH is struggling to pull water thru the element, but if the PH is powerful enough, it will soon be able to easily power water thru (in a few seconds after the system becomes primed).

Therefore, at the beginning, set out the apparatus in a bucket until it is primed and it has full clean water flo out. If it difficult to do this, i.e. it continues to spew white, then the water is not flowing easily enough and a new element, a higher power PH, or more squeeze priming is needed. When clear, move it all to the tank. 
Might want to do this when replacing the element too.


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