# GoofBoy's UGJ's



## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

I know some people don't want to be cutting PVC and boiling it - here is how I do UGJ's on my tanks - as I want to be able to easily try different configurations if what I set up isn't working as well as I would like. Hopefully this helps someone:

I just got everything to do a couple more UGJ for my 40 gallon breeder tanks. 3ft long and 18in wide. I stuck the filter in the corner with the spray bar shooting across the length of the tank because I knew I was going to do this at some point.

If your tank is 12in wide - I would do two 4in risers instead of the 8in below and if you have a 4ft long tank if you could find a 16in riser instead of the 12in that may be better as well. I would try something like below if you have one filter on the tank and see how it goes. You can always change these around very easily - that is why I like this method.

Materials for *GoofBoy's Under Gravel Jets (TM)*

1 - Maxi-Jet 1200 Powerhead
1 - Pre-Filter Sponge pack

1 - 1/2in x 12in PVC threaded riser 
2 - 1/2in x 8in PVC threaded riser

2 - 1/2in 90degree threaded PVC elbows
2 - 1/2in threaded PVC T-connectors

2 - 1/2in Thread x 3/8in Tube Barb - straight - for jets
1 - 1/2in Thread x 3/8in Tube Elbow - 90deg - for jets
1 - 1/2in Thread x 1/2in Tube Elbow - 90deg - for Powerhead

1 - 1ft 3/8 interior diameter clear tubing - for jets
1 - 1ft 1/2 interior diameter clear tubing - for Powerhead










Cut the tubing - I do about 2in or so. This extends the barb and gets it out of the sand. 









You are now ready for assembly.









That was tough - wew - need beer, okay, I'm good...









Used the 1/2in tube and barb to connect the powerhead output - sponge over the intake for added filtration and bio-media.









The 3/8in Barb with elbow for the jet in the back.









The Straight barbs on the 90degree PVC elbows on the front.









The 8in PVC risers with the PVC T and PVC elbows give about 12in between the UGJ - about perfect for an 18in wide (on outside tank).









Here are the UGJ in the tank.


































And already the waste is moving and I can see water cycling much better.

Couple of notes.

I put the length along the back so if the fish dig in the front they aren't uncovering the length of tube.

The threaded elbows make aiming a snap - you can even go completely in the other direction.

A couple inches from the front and back seems to work best for water movement and keeping the jets buried.

Thanks for reading.

Edit: to clear up powerhead attachment.


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## D-007 (Jan 3, 2008)

Why are the fish on just one side of the tank - is the current too strong?


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

D-007 said:


> Why are the fish on just one side of the tank - is the current too strong?


:lol: 
That was moments after I put the UGJ's in and turned them on - I kind-a scared the little guys working on the other side of the tank.

They are back to exploring the entire tank - too much current is not an issue.


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## SoulPainter (Dec 6, 2009)

Where do you buy the barbs?


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

SoulPainter said:


> Where do you buy the barbs?


Our local True Value Hardware Store. They are made by LASCO Fittings,Inc. There are many more out there. I looked online:

Elbow, 1/2 MIP x 3/8 inch
Barb Elbow, 1/2 MIP x 1/2 inch
Male Adapter, 1/2 x 3/8 inch

If you called a plumbing supply place near you with the 1/2 MIP x 3/8 Barb they should have something like this as well.


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## bertolli (Aug 18, 2009)

Is the powerhead sufficiently strong? I'm looking at putting one in my 40 breeder except i think mine is 2" higher, I want to put in 5 jets do you think that powerhead will do it or should i go stronger?


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

bertolli said:


> Is the powerhead sufficiently strong? I'm looking at putting one in my 40 breeder except i think mine is 2" higher, I want to put in 5 jets do you think that powerhead will do it or should i go stronger?


You want around 100 gallons per hour per jet The Maxi-Jet 1200 is 290 gph - so it will drive three jets. You would want a 500 gph powerhead or to of the 1200's - maybe a bit of overkill for a 40, that is what I have on my 75 and 90 gallon tanks.

The goal of the UGJ is to get waste up off the bottom and move it to the filter and increase circulation around the bottom. Height really isn't going to matter. More the footprint of the tank.

Good Luck.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Hmmm... thanks for the thread. Makes me consider doing UGJ's for my 125 project.

Are the jets pointed towards or away from the walls? If you had decor in the tank, how would you ensure you didn't have deadspots (or rather, create new deadspots in less accessable areas of the tank, such as under rock piles)?


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

Rhinox said:


> Hmmm... thanks for the thread. Makes me consider doing UGJ's for my 125 project.
> 
> Are the jets pointed towards or away from the walls? If you had decor in the tank, how would you ensure you didn't have deadspots (or rather, create new deadspots in less accessable areas of the tank, such as under rock piles)?


Along the length of the tank. I try to get a circular flow going or a flow going to the filter intake.

On my 75 I have a shell bed for Multies right in the middle of the tank - so I don't want a strong current across it. I also have a rock pile on either side in front of the power heads with a Julie Pair (and fry now and again) in one I didn't water shooting through the rock piles.










The spray bar shoots across the tank and the two jets on each side help the flow come down the front of the tank and around. The intakes to the power-heads are facing the middle of the tank again to help with current to the corners where the filter intakes are.

Under a pile of rocks you are going to have a dead spot - there really is nothing for it.

I know some people take a power-head and blow in and around rocks with it at cleaning time. I prefer to take all the rocks out now and again and really get all the waste out of the tank.

You can certainly change things - on my 90 I have a jet right in the middle facing directly into the back wall with another blowing straight across the back. I was getting a pile of poo back there so I adjusted. That is why I like the screw together method I describe here - it is very easy to change the configuration if it isn't working quite as you want - kind of like a little erector set.

Good Luck with the 125.


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## xWingman48 (Apr 8, 2008)

Thanks for the tutorial GoofBoy. It's great information like this that makes this forum so great. This is the most social and helpful group of fish geeks around. I love it!

I am currently fighting a problem with detrius piles in various places around my 125, so this is very pertinent for me. I've been experimenting with 2 XP2 filters and two Maxi-Jet 1200s in different configurations, and I still have pileups. I think I'm going to have to go with an UGJ to keep things completely (i.e. mostly) clean.

I like the diagram on your 90, I could do something similar on my 125, with possibly another outlet or two to get around the rockwork. I have a few questions for you:

1) It looks like you're directing pretty much everything into the corners and keeping your intakes there, does that work fairly well? I would assume it probably works much better than the approach I currently have with the intakes in the center.

2) It looks like you use the rubber tubing to direct the water flow up from the UGJs. That looks like the easiest approach, but do you get blowing sand a lot with that one? I would think the approach of coming out of the sand in a 90 with a mashed end on the pvc would give you a more directed flow across the surface. (I remember seeing that in another thread). If your approach works well, then I may go with that because it's also less visible.

3) How deep do you typically have to keep your sand bed to keep the 1/2" PVC buried? I currently only have about 1.5" across the tank, so I may have to add some sand.

Thanks again!


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

> 1) It looks like you're directing pretty much everything into the corners and keeping your intakes there, does that work fairly well? I would assume it probably works much better than the approach I currently have with the intakes in the center.


Yes, it works pretty well. The picture above is of my 75, below is how my 90 is set up.










I did the 75 second, after the experience with the 90 - I really like the filter intake in the corner much better.



> 2) It looks like you use the rubber tubing to direct the water flow up from the UGJs. That looks like the easiest approach, but do you get blowing sand a lot with that one? I would think the approach of coming out of the sand in a 90 with a mashed end on the pvc would give you a more directed flow across the surface. (I remember seeing that in another thread). If your approach works well, then I may go with that because it's also less visible.


Not much blowing sand - unless you want it I guess, and you can heat/bend the tube and rotate the threaded elbow separately so you get more flexibility.



> 3) How deep do you typically have to keep your sand bed to keep the 1/2" PVC buried? I currently only have about 1.5" across the tank, so I may have to add some sand.


About what you have - 1.5-2in of sand in my 90. My 75 has more as is is colorquartz and I put it all in - maybe 3in or so - but the Multies just dig it up and uncover stuff when they decide to.


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## vtech yo (Aug 4, 2010)

would have loved to of found this when i built mine. i used a maxijet as well but rigged it differently. should have done it your way


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## not1min (Aug 23, 2003)

I have found some valuable information on this site. Did not realize how expensive this hobby can be. Thanks to all.

Thanks Goofboy for your design layouts . Could not find the nylon barbs at any of the local hardware stores by me all they had was the brass so I ordered them online

Setting up a 56 gallon (30x18X25). 
Placed styrofoam between the tank and stand. Using eggcrate to stack the rocks on.

Read a post about dying the white pvc's with Rite black dye. Can I dye the barbs using that same method.

Want to use 12in risens instead of the 8in on a 56 gallon Will be using a HOB AC70. Do I need to place another powerhead in the opposite corner to move the debri to the filter intake. Want to put a spongfilter on the AC70 intake because I will be using PFS and have read that it will get into the filter. How can I make a spray bar and what will I need to make it.

Will be using your setup for my 75 gallon but I do not have a canister filter. Will be getting a Eheim 2217 in about a month. In the meantime I will be using my HOB AC110 w/sponge filter and the 2 1200 Maxijets. Could I also use the 12in risens in this tank.

3.Currently have play sand in my 75 gallon and want to change it to the PFS that is pea gravel for both tanks Yes or No.

What are the pros and cons with using the 12in instead of the 8in.


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

not1min said:


> I have found some valuable information on this site. Did not realize how expensive this hobby can be. Thanks to all.
> 
> Thanks Goofboy for your design layouts . Could not find the nylon barbs at any of the local hardware stores by me all they had was the brass so I ordered them online
> 
> ...


1) You are more than welcome.

2) If you are going PFS I am unsure why you would die your barbs. The end of the tube attached to the barb is all you see - please look at the photos at the top of the completed 40Br setup.



not1min said:


> Want to use 12in risens instead of the 8in on a 56 gallon Will be using a HOB AC70. Do I need to place another powerhead in the opposite corner to move the debri to the filter intake. Want to put a spongfilter on the AC70 intake because I will be using PFS and have read that it will get into the filter. How can I make a spray bar and what will I need to make it.


The 8in risers take you from back to front, the 12in riser will take you across the 30in length of the bottom - again please look at the 40Br setup - that footprint is 36in x 18in - that is really what you want emulate.

The filter intake is in one corner and the powerhead is in the opposite corner.



not1min said:


> Will be using your setup for my 75 gallon but I do not have a canister filter. Will be getting a Eheim 2217 in about a month. In the meantime I will be using my HOB AC110 w/sponge filter and the 2 1200 Maxijets. Could I also use the 12in risens in this tank.


I believe you only need to do one side as your tank is 18in shorter end to end.



not1min said:


> 3.Currently have play sand in my 75 gallon and want to change it to the PFS that is pea gravel for both tanks Yes or No.
> 
> What are the pros and cons with using the 12in instead of the 8in.


I love 20# Silica sand (read the # sign to mean grit) same as Pool filter sand. That is what is in the 40Br pictured above. I have had absolutely no problem with the 20# sand getting into my filters - I have it in 3 tanks right now.

I assume your footprint is 30in wide and 18in front to back. If so, I would strongly suggest going with the setup in the initial post for your 56 as the footprint is very close to the 40Br.

Good Luck.


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## lelandgray (Jan 19, 2011)

That clear hose on the barb fittings is a great idea. I just used some 1/2" PVC elbows on mine, and I like how yours looks (or lack of looks!!!).


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## jason081180 (May 5, 2007)

I'm planning to build one for my 75gal tank
Let me know what you think and if i should change anything? maybe i don't need a output in the upper right of this picture as it is right next to the input for the powerhead
i have one filter
two powerheads, one with 3 outputs and one with 4.


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

jason081180 said:


> I'm planning to build one for my 75gal tank
> Let me know what you think and if i should change anything? maybe i don't need a output in the upper right of this picture as it is right next to the input for the powerhead
> i have one filter
> two powerheads, one with 3 outputs and one with 4.


I would approach as follows:










1) Yes, lose the UGJ on the back right corner. 100 GPH per jet is a good rule of thumb.

2) I'd lose the tube across the front of the tank, fish dig and will expose it more easily/often than running across the back where it is hidden.

3) I'd also move the spray bar to the end and shoot it across the length of the tank. In my 40Br's, I have the set up of the right 3UGJs/powerhead combo and the filter intake and spray bar on the far side as shown above and it creates a great flow of water in my 40Br's. Bottom flow goes right to left and top flow goes left to right.

Good Luck.


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## jason081180 (May 5, 2007)

i would think the intake and output of the filter would be best on far ends of that tank. i do like your idea about changing the tubing so it doesn't go across the front of the tank.


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

jason081180 said:


> i would think the intake and output of the filter would be best on far ends of that tank. i do like your idea about changing the tubing so it doesn't go across the front of the tank.


The water circulation will be good enough that it will be a non-issue.

You are putting the UGJs in to get the flow across the bottom - all the waste is headed into that corner. The UGJs obviate the in-take/output being far from each other as you are creating significant water movement using the power heads instead of relying on the filter to drive water movement by itself.

The water from the UGJs will also hit that side and head up as it has no where else to go - the spray bar really helps the flow of that water up the side and across the top to the far end of the tank.

I also like the idea of pulling the water into the left corner to increase the flow across the bottom.

You can certainly 'dry run' different configurations with a few flakes to see how they circulate. Beauty of this approach - you are not locked in.

Good Luck.


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## jason081180 (May 5, 2007)

well i might be changing things a bit here. i have a 75gal and i found a 90 on craigslist for $100 and someone who wants to buy a 75 gal so i might not have to invest much money and i can upgrade from a 75 to a 90gal tank. i know that's not much difference. the foot print will be the same so the UGJ wont change unless i get a second Rena XP3 i also found on craigslist. with two intakes and outputs would i want to change the setup around some. or would that be a lot of filtering and not really be worth it??
with 1 XP3 my turnover is 4.6 times an hour
with 2 XP3 my turnover would be 9.3 times an hour
I'm not including the powerheads for the UGJ in the turnover cause they dont really have any filtering abilities. the little prefilter doesn't really count in my mind.


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

jason081180 said:


> well i might be changing things a bit here. i have a 75gal and i found a 90 on craigslist for $100 and someone who wants to buy a 75 gal so i might not have to invest much money and i can upgrade from a 75 to a 90gal tank. i know that's not much difference. the foot print will be the same so the UGJ wont change unless i get a second Rena XP3 i also found on craigslist. with two intakes and outputs would i want to change the setup around some. or would that be a lot of filtering and not really be worth it??
> with 1 XP3 my turnover is 4.6 times an hour
> with 2 XP3 my turnover would be 9.3 times an hour
> I'm not including the powerheads for the UGJ in the turnover cause they dont really have any filtering abilities. the little prefilter doesn't really count in my mind.


The second filter is really worth it and you will be amazed how much waste the power head sponges pick up.

Good Luck.


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## jason081180 (May 5, 2007)

ok here is another idea showing the integration of the second XP3 filter and changing some of the UGJ. my thinking was to have one or two pointing up under a pile of rocks so there shouldn't be as much buildup in there. what do you all think?


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## jason081180 (May 5, 2007)

well looking at it maybe one UGJ going up and one more at the front of the tank otherwise stuff would settle at the front of the tank. I'm also going to be switching out my crushed coral for some pool filter sand when i install the background I'm working on and the UGJ


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## jason081180 (May 5, 2007)

so no one has any thoughts about my idea? i guess i'll go ahead and do it this weekend.


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## namvet4 (Feb 20, 2011)

GoofBoy said:


> > 1) It looks like you're directing pretty much everything into the corners and keeping your intakes there, does that work fairly well? I would assume it probably works much better than the approach I currently have with the intakes in the center.
> 
> 
> Yes, it works pretty well. The picture above is of my 75, below is how my 90 is set up.
> ...


Thanks for the thread GoofBoy.. Found it via link.. Excellent write up and graphics...
Dumb question from a newbie.. Are the spray boars an integral part of the UGJ system? Or are they running off of another filter/pump?
Thanks!


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

Spray bar is from the canister filter.


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## GoofBoy (Jul 3, 2007)

Added this with fixed links as I wanted to share with someone:

I know some people don't want to be cutting PVC and boiling it - here is how I do UGJ's on my tanks - as I want to be able to easily try different configurations if what I set up isn't working as well as I would like. Hopefully this helps someone:

I just got everything to do a couple more UGJ for my 40 gallon breeder tanks. 3ft long and 18in wide. I stuck the filter in the corner with the spray bar shooting across the length of the tank because I knew I was going to do this at some point.

If your tank is 12in wide - I would do two 4in risers instead of the 8in below and if you have a 4ft long tank if you could find a 16in riser instead of the 12in that may be better as well. I would try something like below if you have one filter on the tank and see how it goes. You can always change these around very easily - that is why I like this method.

Materials for GoofBoy's Under Gravel JetsTM

1 - Maxi-Jet 1200 Powerhead 
1 - Pre-Filter Sponge pack

1 - 1/2in x 12in PVC threaded riser 
2 - 1/2in x 8in PVC threaded riser

2 - 1/2in 90degree threaded PVC elbows 
2 - 1/2in threaded PVC T-connectors

2 - 1/2in Thread x 3/8in Tube Barb - straight - for jets 
1 - 1/2in Thread x 3/8in Tube Elbow - 90deg - for jets 
1 - 1/2in Thread x 1/2in Tube Elbow - 90deg - for Powerhead

1 - 1ft 3/8 interior diameter clear tubing - for jets 
1 - 1ft 1/2 interior diameter clear tubing - for Powerhead










Cut the tubing - I do about 2in or so. This extends the barb and gets it out of the sand.










You are now ready for assembly.










That was tough - wew - need beer, okay, I'm good...










Used the 1/2in tube and barb to connect the powerhead output - sponge over the intake for added filtration and bio-media.










The 3/8in Barb with elbow for the jet in the back.










The Straight barbs on the 90degree PVC elbows on the front.










The 8in PVC risers with the PVC T and PVC elbows give about 12in between the UGJ - about perfect for an 18in wide (on outside tank).










Here are the UGJ in the tank.





































And already the waste is moving and I can see water cycling much better.

Couple of notes.

I put the length along the back so if the fish dig in the front they aren't uncovering the length of tube.

The threaded elbows make aiming a snap - you can even go completely in the other direction.

A couple inches from the front and back seems to work best for water movement and keeping the jets buried.

Thanks for reading.


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