# Am I fish cycling my new tank the right way?



## patdown (Jan 10, 2012)

I have an 180g tank, FX5 with two boxes of Biomax, wet/dry sump with 7 gallons of BioBalls and 1L of Pond Matrix. I have quite a few limestone rocks as well. I have started the new tank with an OB Peacock (2.5"), red empress/Protomelas taeniolatus (5"), blue dolphin/Cyrtocara moorii (4"), and an Electric Blue ahli/Sciaenochromis fryeri(3.5"). Should I add two or three more fish? The plan is an all male Peacock/Hap tank.

This is a log of my parameters: not listed means reading of zero.

11/25 Ammonia: 0.25
11/28 Added fish.
12/1 Ammonia: 0.25
12/3 Ammonia: 0.25 Water started getting a little cloudy.
12/5 Ammonia: Btwn 0.25 and 0.5 Still a little cloudy. I actually don't know what being real cloudy would look like.
12/7 Ammonia: 0.5 On advice of lfs, performed 25% water change. Water cleared up somewhat, but not crystal clear.
12/9 Ammonia: 0.25 Notice a slight amount of green algae growing on the rocks at one end of the tank. Water slightly more cloudy.
12/11 Ammonia: 0.25 Algae has increased slightly. Same amount of cloudiness.
12/13 Ammonia: 0.25 Algae has increased slightly. Same amount of cloudiness.

I feed them Omega One cichlid flakes, once per day. Only what they can consume in a couple of minutes. All added water treated with Prime, including 2 gallons to the sump every other day due to evaporation. I've tested for Nitrites since 12/7, but always zero.

I know cycling takes a while. Do these readings seem about right for what I have and the amount of time since fish have been added?

Thanks.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Better to remove the fish and cycle with ammonia. Cycling with fish causes permanent harm or death to the fish.

Definitely do not add fish. Feed less...no more than what they can eat in 30 seconds.

Cycling with fish and no added bacteria can take six weeks or more...you should see more of an increase in ammonia soon.

Why was your ammonia already 0.25 before you added the fish?


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

The reason the ammonia is low is because of the volume of water relative to the load. You really need to do fishless cycling in a tank of this size. If it were a 75g or smaller you could do it with lots of water changes, dosing of Prme/safe and minimal feedings. It would take a while though.

I would pull all the fish and start dosing with ammonia.


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## patdown (Jan 10, 2012)

I followed three lfs's advice on starting a new tank this way vs fishless cycling. Seems everyone has an opinion of cycling with fish and fishless. Makes it hard for a newbie to figure out what to do. I don't know why ammonia was 0.25 before adding fish. That's what the API Master Test kit showed. It's well with expiration date. I will do another test on tap water later today. I don't have another tank yet and that's not possible for another month or so.

Do my readings seem pretty much on schedule with what I've got? The lfs where I bought my fish stated that these fish are pretty hardy and should survive this new tank. They suggested up to 7/8 fish, but just didn't have the right fish in stock to buy that many. That's why I suggested adding three more fish.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Since the LFS recommended that you cycle with fish maybe stick with further advice from them. Yes it is confusing when everyone tells you something different. Choose your expert and stick with them. I don't think you are going to get too many Cichlid-forum members in agreement on cycling with fish.

They may survive with permanent damage. You may never be aware of the damage.

Since this is your chosen method, hopefully the LFS will advise that you change water often enough to keep the toxins below 1ppm to maximize fish health.


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

patdown said:


> I followed three lfs's advice on starting a new tank this way vs fishless cycling. Seems everyone has an opinion of cycling with fish and fishless. Makes it hard for a newbie to figure out what to do. I don't know why ammonia was 0.25 before adding fish. That's what the API Master Test kit showed. It's well with expiration date. I will do another test on tap water later today. I don't have another tank yet and that's not possible for another month or so.
> 
> Do my readings seem pretty much on schedule with what I've got? The lfs where I bought my fish stated that these fish are pretty hardy and should survive this new tank. They suggested up to 7/8 fish, but just didn't have the right fish in stock to buy that many. That's why I suggested adding three more fish.


DON'T cycle with fish unless you are prepared to do a lot of water changes, testing and dosing of ammonia neutralizers otherwise your fish are going to become stressed and die. Some may live but usually for not very long after their gills/insides being burned up by the ammonia. While they are fairly hardy fish that doesn't mean they are impervious to the effects of ammonia. It simply means they are more tolerant however that doesn't mean they aren't suffering and won't eventually become stressed and die or more susceptible to disease.

If however you wish to continue on with your fish in cycle then you need to try and keep your ammonia as low as possible.

Since before adding fish you already have ammonia readings did you test the water straight from your tap? Also....you need to wait 24hrs after dosing with dechlorinator before testing otherwise it may show a false positive. That may be why you are getting ammonia readings before you even added fish.


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## patdown (Jan 10, 2012)

I tested my tap water again. It was zero. I also added Prime to a gallon of water and tested that. It too was zero. I can only surmise that I was in error when I stated the water was zero before the fish were added.

I will do water changes when ammonia hits 0.5 ppm, as the lfs suggested. I know it is best to not have any ammonia or nitrates, but will these low levels hurt the fish for this first month or so?


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

patdown said:


> I tested my tap water again. It was zero. I also added Prime to a gallon of water and tested that. It too was zero. I can only surmise that I was in error when I stated the water was zero before the fish were added.
> 
> I will do water changes when ammonia hits 0.5 ppm, as the lfs suggested. I know it is best to not have any ammonia or nitrates, but will these low levels hurt the fish for this first month or so?


Don't wait till ammonia gets to .5ppm. You are going to stress/kill your fish. I have no idea what the people at the store are thinking telling you this but they are wrong. Sure...you need some ammonia to cycle a tank but you can do it with minimal amounts.


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## patdown (Jan 10, 2012)

Third week update!

Ammonia was at 0.5 ppm so I did a 25-30% water change on the 15th. Water was clear at the time and has remained clear since. Checked ammonia, nitrite and nitrate on the 16th with readings of 0.25, 0, and 0. Checked ammonia and nitrites on 19th with readings of 0.25 and 0. Fish are acting energetic and go bonkers when I feed them. They chase each other around almost all day. No evidence of ammonia ill effects. No gasping. No fin clamping. No lethargy. Colors are good.


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