# New 75 Gallon Setup



## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

After being out of the hobby for 28 years I am finally going to get to begin keeping fish again! I have been lurking on the discussion board for a while trying to learn as much as I could before making any purchases. But now I am getting ready to take the plunge and this is what I am considering:

75 Gallon Marineland Aquarium
CaribSea African Cichlid Sand Substrate
Marineland Emperor 400 or Aquaclear 110 for a HOB filter
Marineland C-360 or Rena Filstar xP3 for a canister filter
Marineland Stealth Pro 250W heater (if I get the C-360)
Rena Smartheater 200W (if I get the xP3)

These are the basic equipment pieces I want to use for the setup. Any suggestions on the items listed would be appreciated. The Marineland C-360 is on sale at an on-line store for around $150 which makes it very attractive.

A guy at one of the LFS suggested upgrading the lighting from the "normal" light bar included with the cookie cutter tank setup to a Corallife T-5 Series Freshwater Aqualight because I am thinking about placing some Anubias plants in the tank. I am considering that option.

Another question I have concerns water testing. Is the API 5-in-1 Test Strip system a good way to test the water? 28 years ago I didn't test the water ... I just used the "nasal -- does it smell right" test to make sure it was good.  So I need to get a simple, yet accurate, means to test the water.

I'll probably use one of the fishless cycle methods utilizing Dr. Tim's product or the Tetra SafeStart product (I know Dr. Tim was the creator of that too).

Oh ... and the fish. Here is what I am considering for my stock list:

Aulonocara stuartgranti (Ngara; Flametail Peacock) 1M, 3F
Cyrtocara moorii (Blue Dolphin) 1M, 3F
Pseudotropheus saulosi 1M, 3F
Labeotropheus fuelleborni (OB) 1M, 4F
Chromobotia macracanthus (Clown Loach) 3
Synodontis petricola 3
Bristlenose Pleco 2

The Blue Dolphins and Fuelleborni are on the list because those were two fish species I had 28 years ago and really enjoyed. The colors might be intersting because I have blue (Blue Dolphins, male Saulosi), yellow (female Saulosi), OB (Fuelleborni), and bright blue/red (Flametail). And there are different "body types" in the mix to make it nice too.

Do I have enough filtration and space for this type of stocking? It looks like I am keeping the 4 species to a 48" tank rule, but don't know if I have too many bottom feeders. I'd sure like to throw in 5 clown loaches but figure I'm pushing it already.

There will be plenty of rock ... either Lace Rock or something from a local landscape company for aquascaping. Maybe even a piece of driftwood to tie the anubias plants on with some fish line.

I'd appreciate your comments and suggestions because I'd like to order the equipment for this setup by the end of this weekend.

Thanks for all the help you've already provided through your posts on the discussion board that have guided me so far.


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## Gervahlt (Jun 25, 2009)

Sounds like it's going to a be a beautiful tank! I'm not the one to ask on your stocklist, but wanted to chime in on the water test kit. Get the API Master Test Kit instead. The chemical tests are much more accurate than the dip strips, although they take a bit more time to do a test. With the fish you're listing, you also will want to get something to test dH and kH (the master kit doesn't test for them).

I would suggest getting some form of brighter lighting than the standard fluorescent bulb the tank comes with now. It won't be bright enough to grow the plants (I've tried!).


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## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestion Gervahlt.

I hope you don't have to be a chemistry major to use the API Master Test Kit. But I wondered if the test strips would be consistently accurate.

Will two of the T-5 series bulbs be enough lighting for a low light plant like the anubias?


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## rarefaction (Aug 6, 2009)

If you're considering a canister, don't cheap out with that Marineland and Rena stuff. This is where your money counts... Look at more Fluval and Eheim stuff. (yes the Eheim stuff is worth the price. A 2215 would do nicely in your setup)


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## Gervahlt (Jun 25, 2009)

As far as your question, I'd think a couple of T-5 bulbs would be good for the lower light plants. And no, you don't have to be a chemist to use the Master Kit. 

I've heard good things about the Marineland C-360, but no personal experience with it.


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## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

Thanks for the input rarefaction. I'm re-reading some of the threads that are found in the equipment section of the discussion board that discuss and compare the Rena, Marineland, and Eheim canister lines. The biggest downside to the Eheim for me is that no one local carries the line so no local support if I need some help. LFS in the immediate area have the Rena and Marineland lines.

Thanks again for your responses and suggestions Gervahlt.


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## ridley25 (Jan 5, 2008)

Duke79 said:


> These are the basic equipment pieces I want to use for the setup. Any suggestions on the items listed would be appreciated. The Marineland C-360 is on sale at an on-line store for around $150 which makes it very attractive.


You can see reviews of all these filters in the reviews section of this site. As with any brand names you will see some Mac/PC Hatfield/McCoys back and forth about which is best - especially between Fluval and Eheim evangelists.

I've used Emperors and Aquaclears for HOBs and while neither is perfect, you can't go wrong with the 400 or the 110 - maybe it will come down to size, cost and aesthetics?

I haven't used either of the canisters. I have both Fluvals and Eheims and am happy with both. Two things that drive me nuts about Eheim are the _horrible _instructions and the _horrible _green tubing. But they work.

I used to have CaribSea African Cichlid Sand Substrate but it always bugged me that it looked unnatural. I'm not sure if you need to buffer your local water but I would go with play sand from a hardware store or Pool Filter Sand from a pool supply store. Both will be a fraction of the cost.



Duke79 said:


> A guy at one of the LFS suggested upgrading the lighting from the "normal" light bar included with the cookie cutter tank setup to a Corallife T-5 Series Freshwater Aqualight because I am thinking about placing some Anubias plants in the tank. I am considering that option.


Hard to say which way this will go. My anubias grew nicely for a year with only a single 17W bulb (mind you, this was a 38 gallon) until my saulosi decided they had to go. It's a pretty low tech plant, so if I were going to save any money on a mbuna tank I would skimp on the lighting.



Duke79 said:


> Another question I have concerns water testing. Is the API 5-in-1 Test Strip system a good way to test the water? 28 years ago I didn't test the water ... I just used the "nasal -- does it smell right" test to make sure it was good.  So I need to get a simple, yet accurate, means to test the water.


I use drop-based test kits because they are far more accurate.



Duke79 said:


> Oh ... and the fish. Here is what I am considering for my stock list:
> 
> Aulonocara stuartgranti (Ngara; Flametail Peacock) 1M, 3F
> Cyrtocara moorii (Blue Dolphin) 1M, 3F
> ...


I am very conservative as I like to suggest four species in roughly 1m/4f ratios.

I would speculate that your Cyrtocara moorii would be a bit stressed in a four foot tank that included a boisterous mbuna like Labeotropheus fuelleborni.

Fuelleborni and saulosi would go nicely together - you could up the saulosi numbers to 3/9 since they stay quite small.

Other species to consider would be:
Metriaclima estherae - if you can get the Minos Reef variant you'll get orange females and blue males
Iodotropheus sprengerae (Rusties) - nice rust and lavender colouration
Pseudotropheus socolofi (Albino) - very stunning fish
Pseudotropheus sp. "Acei" (Msuli) - a peaceful, purple & yellow mbuna that grows quite large
No comment on the Aulonocara stuartgranti since I have no experience mixing peacocks with mbuna.

Unless you're in love with the Clown Loaches I wouldn't add them to this mix. It takes years and years but they get huge - they also do best in bigger groups and although they'll adapt, they have different water parameter requirements. The Synodontis petricola cover you for bottom feeders. You could even go with five.

And I might find one BN pleco is enough. They are very messy and seem to get killed by mbuna 50% of the time.

kevin


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## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

Thank you for your comments Kevin. I had hoped to receive some good suggestions on my tank setup and I am not being disappointed. This is one of the most helpful forums I've ever posted on.

The local water needs some buffering so I thought the CaribSea sand might be an easy way to keep it conditioned. I looked at the Ivory Coast blend and thought it looked pretty good. I'll check it out again at the LFS.

Thank you for your suggestions on my stock list. It looks like I might have to give up the Blue Dolphins then. Probably of the fish I had back in the late 70s and early 80s the Labeotropheus fuelleborni are the ones I want back in my tank. They are just so homely they are attractive.

We have a local breeder with some beautiful Aulonocara stuartgranti so I was hoping they could work in this setup. Anyone else know if I am asking for trouble putting them in a 75 gallon tank with Labeotropheus fuelleborni? There will be lots of rockwork in the tank.

I do really like having clown loaches in my tank. But I'll reconsider this, especially if it is moving me beyond the safe limit of filtration and tank size.

I wasn't sure if one BN pleco would be enough for a 75 gallon tank. So if one is enough I'll just look for a male to get that bushy nose.


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## jmartyg (May 3, 2007)

Hi,
I've been running an XP3 and AC50 for a long time on my 75gallon african tank with 15 adult mbunas and about 6 juvies. I upgraded to an ac110 yesterday to replace the 50, so I don't have an opinion on that particular filter yet...
I've used marineland and AC HOB filters over the years and AC beats marineland in almost every factor but one. AC's are quieter, have more media, less bypass room, and are able to easily accept custom media. The plastic marineland uses is a lot less brittle, so you would get less stress cracks on the intake pieces.

I really like the XP3. if i'm not mistaken, the pump is after the media, so there is less chance of grit etching the magnet (i may be wrong). they have a lot of room for media and easy to put in custom media. (i have some dead coral in mine to act as a buffer). My intake tubes have come apart before and sucked in some juvie labs, but that was human error. the hoses that come with it can collapse, depending on filter placement relative to tank. i'd recommend some braided nylon hose with a 5/8" inside diameter as a replacement if you go that route. other than those two downfalls, which both are easily preventable, its a good filter for it's price.


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## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

jmartyg ... thanks for your comments. A local big box has the AC110 on sale right now, so I may make a run there and make the purchase today. I have read that unless you keep the intake tubes high enough you can have problems with sand in the AC110 ... so I may put a prefilter on it to keep it from sucking up sand.

And thanks for the suggestion on the xP3. I haven't gotten my cannister yet. But the suggestions on the tube replacement sounds like a good idea.


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## Andras (Jul 17, 2010)

On the filter thing, I've been using an XP2 and an XP1 for about five years now and have had no problems. The XP2 has an inline heater and UV sterilizer and the tank was originally a heavily planted tank....meaning lots of gunk and floating plant debris. I couldn't be happier with the performance of them


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## cdtho187 (Jul 21, 2010)

eheim 2075


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## cdtho187 (Jul 21, 2010)

BIG Al's also has the c-360 for 119.99


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## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

I ended up purchasing a Marineland C-360 because it is the one that is carried by our LFS. He has been very helpful and answered lots of questions so I felt like I should give him some support. He matched Big Al's price (before the special sale).

Thanks again for all your assistance!


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## cdtho187 (Jul 21, 2010)

Please update on how that filter does for you! Set up yet? Did you go with the Stealth Pro?


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## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

Hey cdtho187.

To be honest ... the heater was about the most difficult part of this whole setup (except for the continuing work on my stock list).

There are excellent choices and recommendations given for:

Canister Filters: Eheim, Rena, and Marineland all make filters that receive good reviews from people on the forum.

Power Filters: It seem that Marineland and Aquaclear are both favorites of people on the forum.

Substrate: Sand seems the substrate of choice with lots of good options for color and grain size.

Lighting: Once you decide if you want plants then the direction seems fairly clear with several good ways to get the job done.

Lots of good options for any of the equipment a person wants to get for an African Cichlid tank.

The one exception I discovered was the heater. It seems to be very "hit and miss" on the quality of individual heater unit that you actually purchase. Most of the current models seem to suffer from quality control issues that may end up giving you an unwanted fish fry at your house. But my decision was made easier when my son gave me a Fluval E Series heater for my birthday. Now if something goes wrong with the heater I can blame him!

The Fluval E Series is 200Watt and I think that may be adequate for a 75 gallon tank kept in a room with a moderate temperature in the winter.

Once again thanks for all the help from those who took the time to contribute to this thread.


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## cdtho187 (Jul 21, 2010)

I've basically come to the same conclusions you have from this forum! I am in the process of setting up a 90 G plantedtank! I was planning on getting the Fluval E series since it has a thermometer built in!


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## Duke79 (Jul 16, 2010)

Just a quick update on what I ended up getting for my 75 gallon setup.

75 Gallon Aqueon Aquarium 
CaribSea African Cichlid Sand Substrate 
Aquaclear 110 for a HOB filter 
Marineland C-360 canister filter
Fluval E Series 200W Heater
Corallife 48" Aqualife T-5 light system

All of the equipment went together quite nicely. The Aquaclear 110 was very simple to setup and and install. I took the time to watch the video in the Cichlid-Forum library on setting up the C-360 and also the video sent with the canister so it went together without a hitch. The most difficult part of the installation was trimming the intake and output tubes to the right length. I replaced the charcoal filtration in the C-360 with more biological media and replaced the bio-balls with SeaChem media as was suggested by several people on the forum.

I'm hoping the 200W heater will be enough to heat the tank. I'm not worried about the summer months here in central Illinois because I keep our house fairly warm to save on the air conditioning bill, but in the winter I keep it pretty cool to save energy costs and the heater may need to be replaced if it can't keep up.

I have about 60 pounds of lace rock that I purchased at one of our lfs and my son gave me a huge piece of driftwood with lots of holes for the cichlids to use. It is about the best piece of driftwood I've ever seen for a cichlid tank. So I think I'm pretty set for lots of caves and tunnels. I may add a few more pieces of rock since I keep hearing that you never have enough ...

I'm now in the process of a fishless cycle utilizing Dr. Tim's One and Only. I was surprised the day I called to place the order to actually have Dr. Tim answer the phone and talk to me ... twice. Talk about customer service!

I have posted a new thread in the Malawi Cichlid section of the board to refine my stock list from that I first posted in this thread.

Thanks for all of your assistance!


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