# Eheim 2217 help please?!!!!



## dmw19 (Oct 25, 2012)

Hi

My new White ultra gloss tank has finally arrived!!!

I'm going to set up my 2 eheim 2217's on my new 350l tank. I've read alot of articles on how to prime them so should be okay with that.

My question is when I come to clean the filter out, do I turn the filter off first and then turn off my two double connector taps to keep water in both inlet and outlet pipes or do I shut both double connector valves off first and then switch the filter off?

Also once it's cleaned what are the stages to get it going again?

Which pipe do I release the double connector valves on to fill the canister back up again? Or do I need to suck on the outlet pipe again? This will be impossible as the spray bar will now be attached?!! Or do I just release both taps and turn filter on again?

I know this is a long winded question but would appreciate someone taking the time to explain as I'm not exactly sure on how to do it!!

Thanks in advance

Dean


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## cichlid-gal (Apr 27, 2012)

From another thread...hope it helps 



zazz said:


> no you really dont need to suck hoses or anything.
> 
> 1/firstly trurn off taps and remove canister.. the water should remain in the tubes to the tank...this is important.
> 
> ...


and here is the whole thread http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/posting.php?mode=quote&f=4&p=1450642


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Everyone seems to have a different method for servicing the Eheim Classic series filter. I prefer to use the method recommended by the manufacturer.

1) Unplug the filter from the power source.
2) Close both double tap valves on the intake and output hoses. Have a small towel handy and then separate the halves of the valves, using the towel to catch any water spillage.
3) Carry the filter to the sink. I prefer to tilt the canister and put one hand underneath the bottom and use the other hand to cradle the side of the canister.
4) Rotate the bottom fitting (intake) on the canister so it is pointing into the sink & open the valve. I prefer to place a strainer beneath the fitting to catch any baby fish or media that might come out.
5) Open the top valve (output) to allow air to enter the canister. If you have a length of hose between the top of the canister and the valve, be sure it is higher than the top of the canister otherwise water will spill out of the hose.
Quick note: In order to remove the pump head from the filter body, the output valve MUST be OPEN!
6) Rinse your media with used tank water, clean blue pads and replace white pad if you're unable to rinse it clean. Clean impeller cavity with tube brush after removing impeller and shaft. Be careful not to drop the shaft as it is brittle and will break.
7) Replace all media in the proper order. Do not put any media below or above the lattice screens.  DO NOT add any water to the canister.  
8) Place filter canister back into position.
9) Raise spraybar or outlet jet out of the aquarium so it's not underwater.
10) Use a bucket and place under outlet valve, open valve and drain the water out of the hose from the spraybar to the valve.
11) Connect both intake and output double tap valves.
12) Open output double tap valves.
13) Open intake double tap valves. The filter will now fill with the water that was 'trapped' in the intake hose and all air will be expelled from the filter out through the spraybar. Once you see that the output hose has filled with water near to the rim of the aquarium, you can lower the spraybar back to its normal position in the tank.
14) Plug the filter back into the power source.

While my version is a bit longer than the one quoted by cichlid-gal from zazz, it is the procedure recommended by Eheim and it's the method that I find the most reliable to avoid having any air trapped in the filter.


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## dmw19 (Oct 25, 2012)

Guys!!!

Thanks for your help, *** tried the last set up and although filter works this way there is still air pcokets within the filter!!!!!! See below!!!!

Im in need of desperate help!!!!

*** got my two new eheim 2217's and have set them up and they are both rumbling like mad!!! They are no where near silent. Or a very dull hum!! I have tried every way that has been put on the internet of how to prime them. They all work and the filter runs perfect just a lot of noise.

I have looked into the filter with a torch and can see big pockets of air bubbles underneath the white floss. So i took out all of the media to see if it was the media getting in the way, so with an empty canister i thought there s nothing to get in the way and with waiting for a minute or two after sucking on the spray bar tube i could feel all of the air being pushed out then the water ran smooth into a bucket for a minute or two then i raised it up put bar into water and the water ran smooth but still a large noise in the filter.

I again looked and could see a large air pocket, i shook it, tipped it upside down, from side to side and the air pocket was still there. I have left it for a few days and still rumbling sound.

Its brand new so i can only assume i have an air leak somewhere in the system. *** checked each green tube connection with a torch and cannot see any tiny air bubbles coming from them. I tightened all of the grey spinning things so they are nice and secure over the green tube connections.

The only place i can think of is the top orange O ring. It came slightly greased with something. SHould i grease all green section connections just in case there is an air leak somewhere?

It all seems fairly tight and a good seal when i slide the top of the filter on and clip the clips.

i dont know what else to do?? Im so frustrated and am thinking of sending them back but wanted some assistance before i do that.

Would the online shop that i got it from test it for me if i sent it to them to check?

I bought the two filters from two seperate companies and there both the same!!!!!!

I know this is a huge message but i really need some help and the blokes at my local fish shop are not interested in helping me!!!

Does anyone live in the Brighton area that possibly come and check them out!!! Im even willing to pay someone to get these things running with making a massive noise that i can hear in the next room with the cabinet door shut!!!!!

Thank you so much for your time

Dean


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Sorry you are having issues with your new filters.

If you are getting air pockets in the filter after it has been primed, it can be caused by a few different reasons.

1) Air being drawn into the filter through the hose connections, fittings or due to an air operated device close to the intake strainer.

2) Excess hose that droops or is coiled into loops.

3) Possibly any inline equipment that may be added.

It is always possible to get a defective unit but I doubt that both would be causing the exact same problem. Were the Eheim boxes completely sealed or did it look like they may have been opened prior to you getting them?

Do you have the Eheim Quick Disconnects with the filters?

Are you using the stock green intake and spraybar with the filters or do you have the gray modular ones?


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## dmw19 (Oct 25, 2012)

Hi Deeda

My hoses are striaght down with no loops and no droop.

I dont have any air pumps in there. I dont even have my heaters in there yet as i wanted to get the filters right first. All i have is some rocks. Would cold water male a difference?

Using the standard green intake intake and green spray bar.

The boxes didnt have any kind of clear sticker over the opening tab at the top of the box but it didnt look tampered with. Should they come with a sticker over the tab?

*** watched internet clips of filter set ups and people give it a little shake and the remaining air just wooshes straight out and silence!!!!!!

Should i take all of the hose connections off and use some kind of silicone based lube on the green tube connections?

If i do this do i use vasaline or aquarium safe silicone based lube?

Also though if i take off the green connections will the tubes be slightly stretched?

I cant imagine the online companies taking them back and cheking them, they will just say that air is getting in some how and its your problem!!!!

All i wont to do is get the cycle going and get my fish in there lovely new home!!!! Arrrrrrrgh!!!!!

Thanks again for your reply Deeda

Dean


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## dmw19 (Oct 25, 2012)

Forgot - i do have the eheim quick connectors.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Dean, normally the package has a clear seal over the tab on the box top but if yours didn't have one and all the parts are present, I don't think that will be a problem. Did you look at all the parts of the filter before you assembled them, including the impeller?

I use regular Vaseline to lightly lube the o-rings and any seals on my Eheim filters as per their website recommendations. I have not found it necessary to lube the hose connections, it just makes it difficult to assemble them for me.

The hose can be difficult to remove from the hard green plastic tubes. I usually hold the plastic tube & twist the hose off or use a small flat blade screwdriver to slightly pry the hose around the tube and then rotate the hose to remove it.

I know of no online or store that will test your filter to see if there is a problem with the filter.

Regarding the Quick Disconnects, are the o-rings present on the ends of the male sections? You should put a light coating of lube on those o-rings.

Is it possible for you to remove the Q.D.'s completely and still have enough hose to install the filter on your tank? This would allow you to see if the Q.D.'s are allowing air to enter the filter. You may be able to set the filter on a box or something to accomplish this test with the Q.D.'s removed.

Cold water should not affect the ability of the filter to prime properly. I do recommend installing the heater and following the instructions for turning it on as this will be one less step you will need to do later and will get your tank up to temperature and ready for cycling.

One other thing you can try is to use a spray bottle with plain water in it and lightly spritz the tube to hose connections on the intake side of the filter. This will include the fitting on the bottom of the canister. If you notice the droplets are drawn into the connections, you may need to trim the end of the hose square and reinstall the hose on the fittings fully until they bottom out.

Regarding the elbow fitting on the bottom of the canister. This fitting can be rotated in and out of the canister body. It is possible that it wasn't installed far enough into the canister body or that the o-ring is missing or damaged. Normally, the flange of the elbow is flush with the outside body of the canister but it can be slightly more recessed but not usually 'proud' of the housing. I suggest emptying the water from the canister before removing or adjusting the fitting.

Now after offering all the above suggestions, here is what I would do. Take one of the filters, remove the water and filter media and start from scratch. Check that the impeller, shaft and impeller cover are properly installed. 
Remove the bottom elbow on the canister and check that the o-ring is installed and has no nicks, tears or squashed sections. Clean the threads on the fitting and canister body to remove any grit or debris with water. Lightly lube the o-ring with Vaseline or similar lube and install the fitting until it is flush and then turn it in one more rotation. This should compress the o-ring seal slightly.
Back off the gray nuts on the fittings. Check that the hose ends are cut squarely and installed fully on the fittings on the top and bottom of the canister. If you can do this without the Q.D.'s, it will be helpful as a troubleshooting step. Snug the nuts on the hoses but don't overtighten or you'll crack the nuts.
Put the media back in the filter and make sure the bottom (legs down) and top (legs up) lattice screens are in the proper position.
Prime the filter without water as recommended. Wait until all air is expelled and plug the mains into power.
Use your torch or flashlight to see if any air accumulates in the canister. Hopefully this works for you.

Keep us posted on your results.


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## dmw19 (Oct 25, 2012)

Hi Deeda

I have tried everything you have suggested, taken off the QD taps and fitted the pipes straight to the filter, impeller looks fine and straight and not broken, lubed the large o ring, lubed the bottom elbow, all o rings present and correct even in the QD's, repeated the priming process, with a lot of shaking, turning upside down for 5 minutes rolling it and still air bubbles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I did it with media and then without media!!!

I then attached a power head pump to the inlet from inside the water and used this to force the water through and force the air out!!!!!! again shaking etc.... but still an air bubble and the rattling/rumbling sound on the impeller!!!!

I really dont know what to do? Even if i take the whole filter to a local fish shop, they will only do what i have done!!!

Im sure i could get used to the sound but the whole reason why i bought eheim classics and paid top money for them was that they would operate almost silently!!! When both pumps are going and the cabinets are closed it sounds like a fridge id constantly buzzing. I wouldnt say that that is how they should sound. I hear of people saying that they have to put there ear right up to the canister to check they are actually working?!!!! Thats why i got them!!!!

If i phone up the places where i got them and tell them there is always bubbles in the canister and its making a rumbling sound and that i have tried everything, im sure they will say that it is not a faulty product just that i am not getting all of the air out and that means im stuck with these?

If they operate with a few air bubbles in will it cause damage or an eventual leak because i may just have to leave them how they are as I so want to get my cycle started but cant until i get this fixed as i dont want to get my fish in and then have to start to play around with the filters!!!!

I dont know what to do!!!!!

Thanks

Dean


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Dean, darn it, I was hoping my suggestions would work.

It is very possible that there is a very fine hairline crack somewhere in the filter that is causing the air to enter or that you got 2 defective units since air is still being drawn into the filters.

I would suggest that you go to Eheim's website for your country and contact them directly, I am assuming that Shoreham is not in the U.S.A. I recommend contacting them via phone, if possible, rather than email because sometimes they are slow to respond.

One more thing you might be able to try before contacting them. It's a bit bizarre  but it may help to rule out where the air is entering the filter. Can you place the canister in a container that would be tall enough to submerge it under water to the rim where the pump head seal is?

The motor is actually sealed in epoxy but you won't be completely submerging the entire canister under water. You just want to determine if the problem is at the intake fitting at the bottom, a possible hairline crack in the canister body or a bad seal between the pump head and the top of the canister body. It's an unorthodox method to rule out the possible cause of air entering the filter through those 3 areas. Start by just submerging the intake elbow fully below the water and if that doesn't solve the problem, add more water to the container until it reaches the seal between the pump head and the canister rim.

If you don't see any improvement, the only other explanation, in my opinion, would be a defective unit. You have eliminated all the other possible causes of air entering the filter by performing the steps I've posted above. I can't think of anything I missed to solve your issues.

A few air bubbles should not cause any problems and normally they eventually are worked out of the system but I don't recommend running a filter that constantly has air been drawn into it. It's an irritating sound hearing that rattling around and as you've said, Eheims are noted for being extremely quiet.

I don't think you will have a leak unless the filter or its parts have hairline cracks that may enlarge over time.


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