# How to improve the strength of an aquarium



## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

Hi all. I am in the process of building a 165 G tank. Size - 72"x24"x22" (LxWxH). Thickness of glass - 12mm. Now, other features in the tank are -

1) Eurobracing - 3.5" wide (12mm thick) all around the inner perimeter. However, the braces are made from individual pieces of glass i.e. 2 length pieces and 2 width pieces. Its not the single piece of LxW glass with the inside cross-sections cut out.
2) Cross bracing - at 2' lengths i.e. at 2' and 4', glass 4" wide, 12 mm thick
3) Using Dow Corning silicone.
4) Silicone will also be added all along the inside joints and on the outside joints too
5) Using 1" thick stryofoam at the bottom of the tank
6 ) Stand, made of 3.5" steel angle. Cross braces at 2' along the length, meaning 2 braces along the length. The table top angle will be screwed to a 3/4" waterproof green-plywood on which the aquarium will rest.
7) Giving 6 days curing time for the silicone before I add water and test the tank.

Now, I have never built a tank in my life. Whatever, I have learnt, its from the posts of other forum members and internet sites and naturally I am a little nervous and dont want it to end up in a failure.

*AM I MISSING OUT ANYTHING ?? *Is there anything else, I can do to make the tank stronger and fail-proof ??? Need your comments and advice.


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## vann59 (Jun 20, 2011)

Pictures or diagrams would help. The eurobracing description is not totally clear to me. So is this intended to look like a rimless tank? If the eurobracing is there to hold the cross bracing, doesn't the 3 1/2" width of silicone obscure the clarity of the glass? Maybe I am not understanding the idea.


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## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

I have seen many eurobracing designs where the bracing is done from a single piece of glass of size LxW ie the tank bottom glass dimension. The inner portions (leaving out the width of the braces) are then cut out to form the braces resulting in one single piece without any joints. What I have done is cut 2 pieces of tempered glass of 12mm thickness and size 71.5"x3.5" which is attached to the front and back sides of the upper glass perimeter and another 23.5"x3.5" which are along the width of the tank. Then 2 more cross braces at 2' and 4' (in the middle of the tank) of size 23.5"x4". What I meant to say was that the braces are made of separate pieces of glass and not carved out from a single large piece. My tank dimensions are 72"x24"x22". Silicone thickness applied is 1". Was wondering if putting cross-braces are the bottom of the tank will make it stronger since I have got quite a few pieces of extra glass.

However, I was surprised the Dow Corning silicone had no part number ex. 732 or 480 etc. Its made in Korea and it says it is suitable for use in aquariums etc.

Regarding the testing of the tank with water, is it adviceable to put water upto the full height and test or should I test in intervals ?


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

I think that adding glass to the bottom would help as well, but that's hypothetical as I have never built a tank before.

I would advise you do to it in intervals, some leaks can put out MUCH more water with more pressure and it's easier to seal it while it's small before water pressure makes it larger.


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## vann59 (Jun 20, 2011)

If you are layering plates of glass, and water gets in between the layers, then the water there will become a place for algae to grow.

Here's a thought. How about a brace that reaches across the top all the way from one outer edge to the other, and below, against it there is a smaller piece of glass attached which just fits between the two opposing sides? This would support it from inward pressure when lifting mostly. But outward pressure (from the water) would probably we best supported from the outside, as is done with a rim. My thinking is that if you are making a tank with a rimless top, the best method would probably be a combination of heavy glass and a deep rim on the bottom to keep the sides tightly in place.


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## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

Not really. Besides the Eurobracing and the cross-braces which will be inside the tank, the top and bottom outer tank perimeter will be encased in 2.5" wide around 2mm thick plastic strip. Though its more to make the tank more presentable since I didnt think that this would actually add strength to the tank. I am using 12mm thick Saint Gobian tempered glass. Initially, I did think of hardening the glass but then I think it will become more brittle.


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## vann59 (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok, so it sounds like a plastic rim, is it clear or opaque? If the rim doesn't add strength, at least if it's snug fitting, and you start to have a problem with the plates shifting, you should see a crack on the rim to at least warn you of an impending disaster, should it come to that. 

What was it that made you decide to build a custom tank rather than purchase one already made? (Since it doesn't appear that the cost is your concern.)


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## Fishy_Cichlid (Aug 4, 2011)

The braces (Eurobracing & the cross braces) are made with the same glass as the tank. The rims are just to give a better feel & look to the tank. I did look for a 6' branded tank and could not get one so I opted to get it custom made. The price is infact less - its the wood & ply of the stand that makes the entire setup a little costly, glass material for the latter is much better and several customization can be made to the tank. I have a branded 4' tank and have seen that the manufacturers (of my brand and other brands too) rim the tank with thick plastic which even has cross braces of plastic with it.


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## vann59 (Jun 20, 2011)

Sounds like you are getting a good deal and tank there :wink:


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