# Filtration behind 3-D DYI BAckground?



## SoonerCichlid (Jul 15, 2008)

I am in the process of making a background and thought about adding extra filtration behind it. I have been researching on here for awhile now and came up with what I think will work best for me. I am attempting a modified version of bface1212 wonderful back-to-nature modules. I(I will document it and post it after my completion) Instead of siliconing them right to the back of the tank, like bface1212, I would like to attach them to a piece of acrylic.

So here is my idea. I would like to keep the acrlic away from the back of the tank about 2 and 1/2 inches. On the left top side of the acrylic, I would like to drill some holes for an overflow. That would flow under and to the right to another chamber sperted by a seperate piece of acrylic with bio balls in it, leading over and to the right of another piece of acrylic into the next chamber with open-cell foam in it( this would be done in a zig-zag motion from bottom-top-bottom, then it would finally go to the out-take of an XP3 and powerhead that leads to an UGJ system in front of the background.

Any comments and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh! Also, where should I place the intake to my XP3, top righthand corner? and should I use spray bar or nozzle? Because I need to start planning on which to incorporate and blend into my background. Thanks!


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## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

What size tank is this? Remember, the 3d background is already going to steal a bunch of tank space.

Why not just put in a sump below the tank and not lose valuable tank space.


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## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

Further, cleaning out the space behind the bg would be a huge pain. Plus, how do you plan to anchor the bg down. I think that the most surface area possible is essential to keeping it from floating.


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## SoonerCichlid (Jul 15, 2008)

under_control said:


> What size tank is this? Remember, the 3d background is already going to steal a bunch of tank space.
> 
> This tank is 75 gallons, but it isn't the usual measurements. It isn't as long as most 75ers, but instead its wider giving it more depth. Measuring 21'' from front-to-back. My modules were going to range from 2'' to 6'' thick, plus the 2 and 1/2'' for the space in the rear it would be 8 and 1/2'' at its thickest, so this would give it 12 and 1/2'' between the thickest modules and the front glass.
> 
> Why not just put in a sump below the tank and not lose valuable tank space.


I don't really want to add a sump because I aready have a rena XP3. I was just pondering an idea for some extra filtration, especially since I want to mount my modules to a piece of acrylic and not the back of the tank, so I can disassemble the tank easier if I choose.


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## SoonerCichlid (Jul 15, 2008)

under_control said:


> What size tank is this? Remember, the 3d background is already going to steal a bunch of tank space.
> 
> Why not just put in a sump below the tank and not lose valuable tank space.


Whoops! My reply went into your comment! Sorry.

This tank is 75 gallons, but it isn't the usual measurements. It isn't as long as most 75ers, but instead its wider giving it more depth. Measuring 21'' from front-to-back. My modules were going to range from 2'' to 6'' thick, plus the 2 and 1/2'' for the space in the rear it would be 8 and 1/2'' at its thickest, so this would give it 12 and 1/2'' between the thickest modules and the front glass.

I don't really want to add a sump because I aready have a rena XP3. I was just pondering an idea for some extra filtration, especially since I want to mount my modules to a piece of acrylic and not the back of the tank, so I can disassemble the tank easier if I choose.

Here's where I got my idea to add some extra filtration. Look at #23, they are using the space behind the background for filtration. http://www.backtonature.se/english/mont ... drock.html I would be copying this, but then instead I would have seperate chambers for bio-balls and foam, then instead of the water just going striaght back to the front of the tank with the powerhead (mine would be UGJ), it would also go to a canister then to the front of the tank.


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## SoonerCichlid (Jul 15, 2008)

under_control said:


> What size tank is this? Remember, the 3d background is already going to steal a bunch of tank space.
> 
> Why not just put in a sump below the tank and not lose valuable tank space.


Whoops! My reply went into your comment! Sorry.

This tank is 75 gallons, but it isn't the usual measurements. It isn't as long as most 75ers, but instead its wider giving it more depth. Measuring 21'' from front-to-back. My modules were going to range from 2'' to 6'' thick, plus the 2 and 1/2'' for the space in the rear it would be 8 and 1/2'' at its thickest, so this would give it 12 and 1/2'' between the thickest modules and the front glass.

I don't really want to add a sump because I aready have a rena XP3. I was just pondering an idea for some extra filtration, especially since I want to mount my modules to a piece of acrylic and not the back of the tank, so I can disassemble the tank easier if I choose.

Here's where I got my idea to add some extra filtration. Look at #23, they are using the space behind the background for filtration. http://www.backtonature.se/english/mont ... drock.html 
I would be copying this, but then instead I would have seperate chambers for bio-balls and foam, then instead of the water just going striaght back to the front of the tank with the powerhead, it would also go to a canister then to the front of the tank.


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## SoonerCichlid (Jul 15, 2008)

under_control said:


> Further, cleaning out the space behind the bg would be a huge pain. Plus, how do you plan to anchor the bg down. I think that the most surface area possible is essential to keeping it from floating.


Sorry I've posted things incorrctly and numerous. I'm new. You'll have to forgive me. 

I failed in my opening explaination to mention that while copying bface1212's idea by siliconing rock to foam, then cementing over it, I want to modify it. After attaching the rock face to styrofoam and quickcreting it, I want to hollow out most of the styrofoam out of the back-middle for buoyancy issues and also to maybe incorporate some caves behind like he and others discussed in his post. Then attach the modules to the piece of acrylic.

When it comes to the cleaning, the back-to-nature web site said that cleaning would only come every few years. I once had a job cleaning out dryer vents and so I have many long and thick brushes that kind of look like a thick wire coat hanger with bristles on it that I think would do the job well.


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## Dutch Dude (Sep 14, 2006)

Hmmm,...some things to consider,.....how will you clean the filter? Your hand doesn't fit right? How many bio balls will fit into such a small aria? They do best when floating in high currents right? How the BTN filter in the background is created doesn't looks functional.


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