# Cichlids losing color and dying - HELP



## sheldon_goldwing

[/img]I have a 37g Cichlid tank for the past couple years. IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ve had ups and downs but the last year has been great I do regular water changes and because I live in the country and have well water with active iron I buy RO water at the local store. (I have for two years - no changes) I normally do 25% water changes every 2 or 3 weeks. I changed the water last Saturday as I it has been 4 weeks without a change. The fish have been eating great and looked great Sunday. Today, Monday I went to feed the fish as normal and my Red Zebra is normally very orange. He was more peach color. I noticed the others have their color faded as well. The yellow lab has also has his yellow faded particularly towards the tail area. The Orange looks terrible so I put him in my extra tank and he is slowly dying. He is now upside down and he is just about dead. (just took picture)
Water tests: NO3 does not register, NO2 does not register, GH is 75, Chlorine does not register, KH is 60, and pH is very low at 6.2 (typically consistently low at 6.8) and NH3/NH4 tests at .50 (normally 0)
What should I do? I have more RO waterÃ¢â‚¬Â¦.
HELP!


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## sheldon_goldwing

I did another 25% Water change to help with the Ammonia. I hope it is not the water causing the problem. I donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t know how to import pictures. I read the read before you post thing and it has a link to tell you how but it goes to an empty page. 
They eyes donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t look normal either. Maybe I'm just paranoid. Two are at the top, none are swimming. The one has died in the other tank. I really donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t know that much. 
Any input would be nice. 
[/img]


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## Kanorin

In your case poor water conditions have either directly harmed (ammonia poisoning) or perhaps indirectly led to some kind of opportunistic infection. It's tough to say without any pictures or seeing the fish. (To post pictures you'll need to upload them to a picture sharing site like photobucket, and then link them to this website).

The first thing you should do when you detect measurable ammonia or nitrite is a huge water exchange (75% or more) to try and reduce those levels to near zero. Even trace levels of ammonia or nitrites over time can cause damage or make the fishes' immune system vulnerable to opportunistic infections.

As an aside, I suspect your nitrate kit may have gone bad. If your nitrates are undetectable in an established tank, something is wrong. If you have the API liquid test kit, have you tried shaking reagent two until your arm is sore? You really need to shake it good - and then add the drops immediately.

In the future, you should never let your tank go for 4 weeks without a water exchange.


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## DJRansome

Note that red zebra males typically turn peach-colored at maturity.

This is what I see on the link for how to post photos:



> 6. We suggest you upload your images at one of these web sites:
> www.freewebspace.net
> www.photobucket.com
> 
> Next steps
> 
> 1. After the upload is complete, view the photo you wish to post here. Right-click on the picture and then select Properties. Copy the Address (URL).
> 
> 2. On this board, write in your post the following:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. THEN, before you SUBMIT your post, be sure to PREVIEW it first. You should see the image. If not, double check your code.


Note if you copy the img link from photobucket, you will not have to bother with the


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## sheldon_goldwing

The Amonia is now near zero After water change. I'll work on the pictures. On closer inspection the fins look like they are fuzzy and frayed and whiteish. I'm thinking a fungus or something. Never noticed small white dots arount the top rim of my tank before. (Maybe a clue) The gill area was a bit red as well. 
I've always used Jungle 6 way test strips and an API liquid kit for Ammonia. (not alot of options in my town)
They seem so weak. All this in two days! very depressing! thanks for your help.


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## sheldon_goldwing

Lost three fish so far. Very depressed, I wonder why I do this....
Ran to WalMart (only local fish store) and got all the different medicines that they had.
The closest stuff they had to match my sympotoms was Fungus Clear. With half my fish dead and very confused I used it early this morning. I've had the Big yellow for alomost two years. He/she was less than a half inch long....
Hope I did the pictures correct.................
Very Depressed............... I was setting up a new 125g tank for them.................


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## sheldon_goldwing

The big yellow one died while at work. I have no idea what to do. I have only two left. can anyone please at least look at the pictures and point me in the right direction? Is there a website to goto? Do I leave them in the fungus medicine? put them in a new tank with new water? Is it even a fungus problem? ANYONE? please help me try to save my last two.


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## Kerricko

sorry to hear about your fish.. Wish I had some answers for you. I am doing some reading so hopefully I come across something to help.


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## sheldon_goldwing

Thanks for your post. I always felt these forums are a community. 
Well, I really do not know what to do. leave them in the medacine so it can do it's job or start the many water changes. With no help I'm guessing water changes to save the last two of my babies. Wow, I have nothing to put in the new tank.
I found the following info and it seems like ALL of them apply. (very confused)

Q: The fish's fins appear to be slowly eaten away and edged in white.
A: This is a classic case of Fin and Tail Rot. It is caused by a Pseudomonas Bacteria (A condition called: Pseudomoniasis).
Treatment: There are quite a few things you can use to treat this condition. TMP-Sulfa -or- Sulfa 4 TMP -or- Neomycin Sulfate -or- Tetracycline -or- Nitrofurazone.
Q: My fish have an off-white looking substance growing on the fins.
A: This is a gram-negative bacterial infection called Columnaris Disease. Some people often mistake this disease as a fungus.
Treatment: Sulfa drugs work well for this. TMP-Sulfa -or- Sulfa 4 TMP -or Triple Sulfa Powder.
Q: The fins on my fish are all fuzzy and cotton-like. The fins are eaten away.
A: This sounds like a Saprolegnia Fungus.
Treatment: Treat the fish with Forma-Green for 5-7 days.
Q: The fins on my fish are frayed and ragged. Some fins are split. Some fish breathe heavily and some die quickly.
A: This sounds like an Ammonia problem in the water. Use an ammonia test kit and check for Nitrites also. If you have any readings of Ammonia or Nitrites, do a partial water change immediately. Increase the oxygen level if possible.
Treatment: Use Aqua Gold to establish the proper level of nitrifying bacteria needed to cycle the water.


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## DJRansome

Fungus Cure? Sounds like good stuff. I'd keep treating them.

What do the other water tests say? Did you buy test kits when you got the meds? Nitrate? Nitrite?

I've never had fungus, so I don't know if it is typical to die so quickly of fin rot. I don't see any other symptoms to go on though.


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## sheldon_goldwing

I think the death problem was the ammonia, thus the choice to do more water changes and I put a big bubbler in the tank. The fungus stuff turned my water slightly green so I canÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t use my ammonia test kit. The other tests strips obviously donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t work and that is all Wal-Mart stocks. I will need to drive a couple hours and get to a real pet store.
My Lace catfish has been with me since the beginning and he has a white spot on his one eye. He was about an inch long when I got him and he is not a good five inches. Top fin is easily three inches tall. Hope they all make it.


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## benny71

Dang, this thread is depressing.

Sorry Sheldon.


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## Kerricko

I thought maybe columnaris but never having dealt with it and not being able to see the fish up close really hard to say. Perhaps there is more than 1 thing going on in there. Keep up the treatments and good luck.


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## DJRansome

I've never had columnaris either (I don't think) but I think it's more usually on the body and a grayish patch that might or might not have fuzzy stuff on it.

Yours looks more like fins mushy and fuzzy...I'd go for fin rot.

But a lot of those meds in the "A" you listed may have the same or similar active ingredients. You mentioned it turned the water green, and one of the other items you list is forma-green. Probably the same thing.

How long have you done the fungus cure and is anyone better?


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## PsYcHoTiC_MaDmAn

to me I think the ammonia is the big issue, water changes reduce it, but its still there.

I would use a dechlorinatore that binds ammonia, rendering it non toxic. seachem safe/prime does this when using a 5* dose., sure there might be others as well.

adding meds might have made things worse.

TBH, I would go with water change, the 5* prime/safe dose and hope things start improving. without a definite diagnosis I would worry that adding meds would do more harm than good.


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## sheldon_goldwing

Thanks for all your help. Sorry for being depressed. I have had the tank going a couple years and it was difficult at first but until last Sunday everything was pretty great. My fish were prettier than most the ones in the fancy fish stores. The fish that say Ã¢â‚¬Ëœnot for saleÃ¢â‚¬â„¢. I'm the kind of guy who is never depressed but I will admit this one hit me hard. IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢m sure it has to do with them being so little when I got them, most under a half inch. I'm down to one Cichlid and one Lace Catfish. I really agree with the ammonia thing too. But it is not ammonia alone, something else too. I moved the last two to my hospital tank which has fresh water and increased the temp to 86 hoping to kill any bacteria if that is the issue. The white that was clearly visible on the catfish is now gone but his one eye is still cloudy looking. My last one is a beautiful Blue Cichlid which is now more grey than blue. His fins look great but just like the others they lost their color first. Neither has eaten since Saturday which both ate great. Odd how it happened so fast. 
I guess my big question is what now. Is my bio-wheel contaminated? Do I bleach everything and restart over? IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢m guessing so but I just donÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t know. If anyone has any input I would appreciate it.


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