# Fishroom - 3/4 Plywood or gypsom drywall ????



## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

Hi im planing a 230 sq ft fishroom build and im thinking about, what materials im gonna use for the walls after insulation.

What would you prefere gypsom drywalls or 3/4" plywood walls, don't think about the price difference as im the one paying :?

Im thinking gypsom drywall will be cheaper and faster, but with wooden walls I will have no problems with putting up shells for food and hooks for net's and what else. There is gonna be a small chillout zone with a pair of comfy chairs and a beer fridge or something.

Thanx


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## BenHugs (Jan 13, 2007)

Maybe the green gypsom it's rated for wet location such as bathrooms.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

Yeah it's deffently gonna be wet room gypsom if anything, figured I did'nt need to mention that for a fishroom build.

:thumb:


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## johncl (Mar 10, 2010)

green or blue gypsom


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## Rumple (Apr 17, 2007)

The paint is more important than the substrate. You want a quality paint made for high moisture areas. You may pay a little more for good paint, but you'll thank yourself in 5 years when it is holding up and all your tanks are in.
There are some excellent latex based paints made. I coated my fishroom in oil based paint and it has held up real well. The biggest down side to oil based paint is that it smells strong for a few of days after you apply it, latex won't smell as bad. 
If you go to a GOOD paint store in your area (not a big box store) they will get you what you need.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

A fish room doesn't need green drywall. If moisture becomes high enough to be an issue, an air exchange system needs to be considered.


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## PauloSilva (Apr 17, 2006)

I would prefer drywall man. Much cleaner look... plywood would make me feel like I'm in my shed. No problem hanging shelves, just hit some studs.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

Theres gonna be hygrostat controlled air exchange and everything by the book, I have done a lot of reconstruction in general.

This is my first dedicated fishroom, I just wanted to know if you guy's with fishrooms would prefere wooden walls over gypsum drywall.

It seems like people are a big fan of gypsom drywall, I have'nt desided yet and it's pretty much gonna cost me the same.

I have a bunch of 2.5 gallon buckets of good quality paint for bathrooms, im gonna use that, 3 layers will doa good job useualy. There is a mild fungicide in the paint, so mold and fungi don't get a easy grip. It's safe for use in aquatic enviroment when it's dry, so I just have to let the paint dry before moveing in the tanks.

Im all about useing what I got around, there is a bunch of the materials there have been stocked in the attic for years. This seems like a good option to put it to good use, but also saveing me some cash.

Planing on putting 6" of insulation in the walls and 12" in the celing, I hate working with rockwool but there is no way around it here.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)




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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Pali said:


> Planing on putting 6" of insulation in the walls and 12" in the celing, I hate working with rockwool but there is no way around it here.


You don't really lose heat thru the walls so 6" might be overkill, especially with conc. foundation walls. Where are you located? that would really be the deciding factor. 12" in the ceil. is always a good idea, is there living space above? How do you plan on heating this room since those windows do not look to be energy star effeciency.

I would use MR gypsum (*m*oisture *r*esistant) over wood as wood is really a sponge and will adjust according to the humidity.

Is this room below grade? Question ... is that some sort of paneling on the ceil. or is that the sub floor? A lot of questions I know but I love older buildings.

Good luck on your project :thumb:


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

@fox

Hi there im located in Denmark, north EU so it get's cold here in the winter.

The building i a old stable I belive thats converted into a garage, the walls are old brick walls with a hollow air space between the inner and outer layer of bricks.

The law actualy say I should put in 8" of rockwool in the walls and 12-14" in the celing, but im gonna go with 6" as I can buy a pallet of that and get a bulk price. Then use 2x 6" in the celing and 1x 6" in the walls. The law also only apply for new buildings, as im not gonna need a inspection or anything, im not breaking the law. I take it as a good guide line, as the better insulation the more money I will save when heating up the room.

The celing is the floor of the attic, one thing about old buildings. They shure used some nice materials, the celing might not look like much, but it's atleast 1" hard wood and still good. There are two trusses that are in bad condition, they are supported with wood posts. I will have to get a friend to inspekt them if I should change them or if they will last another decade, but I really don't wanna do it if I don't have too.

The building is above ground level

I have some pictures of the attic on a different computer, im gonna post a pic of the attic above the celing later.

About the windows I have no desided if im gonna blind them out, so I don't get sunlight hitting my tanks, but on the other hand it's nice with some sunlight for me when im in the room. 
No matter what im gonna keep the old windows in the building, for the looks of them and just add some dubble layed energy windows on the inside. They won't be able to open, but as there is gonna be a exhaust fan to remove unwanted humidity and summer heat it's gonna be okay.


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## FishFlake (Mar 7, 2010)

> but with wooden walls I will have no problems with putting up shells for food and hooks for net's and what else


If you use drywall, you could place blocking between your studs (a piece of 2 x on edge between 2 studs flush with the front edge of the stud). Place them everywhere you think you want to put a shelf etc. Maybe go all they way around the room with them at a couple levels.

I love old buildings too!


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Pali, 
The building i a old stable I belive thats converted into a garage, the walls are old brick walls with a hollow air space between the inner and outer layer of bricks.

I don't know if this would be an option in your area but you might consider a blown in foam product that expands to fill the hollow air space in the brick walls. This would help reduce air infiltration and insulate at the same time. Old brick may be porous and this could compromise any rock wool installed on the inner wall. You may even consider using a vapor barrier. Or you can use foam insulating panels/sheets instead of rock wool.

Definitely stud the walls out. You might consider using the traditional way of a top & bottom plate with studs in between. I don't know if you want to attach the studs directly to the brick walls. Sometimes the brick gets crumbly, especially when very old.

If you are not using the attic space for storage, you could always place the insulation up there. That would free up space for storage shelves along the beams. I would also consider replacing the wooden support posts with adjustable metal posts made to carry the load. Be sure to secure them to the floor & beams.

I would also use a pressure washer to clean the interior walls and floor before beginning any work. Definitely the floor because then you will be able to paint it.

I love the look of the windows, they add a nice character to the room. You could always get operable window inserts to fit the space or make a hinged insert that would allow the top window to still open for ventilation and summer breezes.

Does the room already have electricity, floor drains and water access? Those will be vital to a good fish room.

I'm really looking forward to seeing your progress.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

@FishFlake I have thourt about that solution and it's prolly something like that im gonna end up with, thanx for the input.

@Deeda the walls will be cleaned a bit and sealed up with new mortar here and there if needed, the floor still need a top cement coat. It's insulated and then leveled, so it's not ready to paint yet.

There is no floor drain, but the top coat of cement. I will try to make a it tilt enough that heavy spillings will drain towards a door to the greenhouse, then make it drain into the greenhouse.
If I can find a mate with the tools for cutting the concreat floor, I will put a drain in the middle of the floor. Im not gonna do it manualy with a hammer and chisel 

There is power in the room, but I don't know if it's enough yet. Im gonna install water myself, it's gonna be hard work digging a trench from the house to the garage atleast 4 ft deep so it don't freeze during the winter. Maybe I can get the neighbore to dig it with his mini dozer, but I don't know him at all as I just moved here.

Im also looking forward to getting really started, but it will be a slow progress project as im gonna buy supplies as I have free cash for it. I have not saved up alot of money in advance, I just spend my "fun and hobbie" saveings on vacation, my newest tank and 35 W/C Tropheus Red Rainbows. It's not gonna be a cheap project, but I hope im gonna get it ready over the summer.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

The room is gonna be build in stages, but I have started the first strage.

Wood frameing and insulation is gonna be the first work im doing, almost done with the frames and vapor block. Not looking forward to the rockwool part, I just hate working with that stuff. :roll:



I did'nt have cash for the drywall this time and already had to drive twice to get this stuff home, so it's all right. I can get it another day, Im shure they will have what I need when I need it


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

A small tip that might come into play later. Many will laugh and consider me bonkers but I found yet another use for vinegar. When working with fiberglass under a trailer so that I was on my back working overhead, I got a massive amount on/ in me. I was the most miserable ever until a neighbor tipped me to a vinegar bath. As I showered the next day I splashed it all over me and it really did reduce the pain. If you reach a place where you need it, have a try at this weird treatment. At that point I would have paid lots for a barrel to soak myself in.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Rock Wool is not the same as the old stuff here in the states. It is made a bit differently than the old glass type GoldBond used to sell. That stuff took a few years off my life I am sure.

We used to use corn starch as a way to close the pores and keep it from irrating too much. Just sprinkle it on and don't rub the glass into the skin once you start messin with it.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

PfunMo said:


> A small tip that might come into play later. Many will laugh and consider me bonkers but I found yet another use for vinegar. When working with fiberglass under a trailer so that I was on my back working overhead, I got a massive amount on/ in me. I was the most miserable ever until a neighbor tipped me to a vinegar bath. As I showered the next day I splashed it all over me and it really did reduce the pain. If you reach a place where you need it, have a try at this weird treatment. At that point I would have paid lots for a barrel to soak myself in.


Awww that sounds nasty, I have worked with fibreglass building windmill wings some years ago. I hope I still remeber enough about it to do the work without covering myself in epoxy resin, it's not what I would rate healthy 

@Fox Im gonna ue a protective suit and mask, do the job qiuck and get a cold shower after. I have worked too much with this stuff, it's itching already just thinking about the work I got to do later today YAY :thumb:


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

I used to install fiberglass insulation as a summer job. This was before they put hour limits on how long you could work with it in a week and I was installing it 12 - 14 hours a day, six days a week and developed a cough. When I held my hand up in front of a cough and sprayed blood over my hand, I walked out of the house and pulled up some flat rocks to sit on until my boss came by. It was years before I could stand to be around the stuff again, and then I'd wear a better mask than a nuisance mask. There are masks with replaceable inserts that are thick pads.

Plywood on the walls would be a fire hazard if it's not covered with drywall. Plywood will absorb moisture. so I would not use it where I don't have to. I have regular drywall in my fish room and it's held up fine since building it thirty years ago.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

Mcdaphnia said:


> I have regular drywall in my fish room and it's held up fine since building it thirty years ago.


 :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

Thats nice to know, I don't think I will live in this house in 10 years. When the last kids are old enough to move out in a few years time, we will most likely find something more suiting.

Plywood is out of the question now, I just don't see any reason to start a new thread.

Rockwool is not a hazzard to work with, it's just freaking anoying and makes me scratch all over like some crazy mofo. Almost got done with the RW insulationg, got the walls done and got started with the ceeling. But ran out of vapor block and staple's, so have to go get that tomorrow before I can get any further. Sounds nasty about your loungs, good there are ruels to prevent this from happening now days. Like when I was a kid asbestos insulation was the big thing, it was everywhere in schools, institutions for kids, hospitals and so on.

Useualy I use 3M's A2P3 filter mask, they take pretty much everything both organic gases, vapours and particulate. Acetone vapours is one of the only thing it can't handle.

I have been busy :dancing:







I desided to go all the way with this room, im gonna make floor drain and everything needed.
Maybe not the first thing to be done, but in the long run im gonna be happier not takeing a lot of short cuts.

On the walls I use a strong Vapor block, in the ceeling im useing a combination of the strong green one and a vapor block with reflector, to reflect heat back into the room.


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

Pali said:


> The room is gonna be build in stages, but I have started the first strage.
> 
> Wood frameing and insulation is gonna be the first work im doing, almost done with the frames and vapor block. Not looking forward to the rockwool part, I just hate working with that stuff. :roll:
> 
> ...


The pic thats missing in the prev post on page 1, I can't edit the post.


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## Tiberian (Jun 14, 2009)

:thumb:


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## shaguars7 (Apr 12, 2009)

Pali have you figured on what you are going to be doing for filtration in this room?I am building a room considerably smaller than 230 square feet it is about 140 and will have about 20 tanks going well maybe 24 but i am going with a linear air pump and sponge filters have you given that any thought yet?


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## LSBoost (Jan 21, 2010)

So far so good =D> :thumb: .


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## Pali (Dec 22, 2009)

shaguars7 said:


> Pali have you figured on what you are going to be doing for filtration in this room?I am building a room considerably smaller than 230 square feet it is about 140 and will have about 20 tanks going well maybe 24 but i am going with a linear air pump and sponge filters have you given that any thought yet?


I have thourt about building a huge central sump as the main filter, basicly just build it so I will be able to hook up all the tanks I would be able to stuff in here.

Then I will proberly end up with sponge filters in the tanks, for polish and more surface movement, but the main filter will be the sump. That way I will be able to change water on all the tanks at once, saveing time on the maintenance. A mate recomanded a drip to change 3-5% of the water on a daily basis, it sounds like a easy and good way to keep the water good. On the other hand it sounds like a lot of water, but I don't know if you might use more water if I do 30% once a week.

I got a ring blower from a old LFS, for koi raising or it can power atleast 200 big tanks. My biggest issue is I have no idea how big it is, the sticker with the wattage info and stuff is whoren away. Most likely it will be too big unless I get a koi pond later on, but it's good to have for that day and I got it really cheap - a few hundred $ All I know is, it used to run a huge LFS with

If it's too big im going with a HIBlow diaphragm pump or something like that.

@LSboost yeah it's slowly takeing shape of something, hopefully I will get done with the insulation today.


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## shaguars7 (Apr 12, 2009)

nice Pali.. i am somewhat set on the air pump..all i have to do is call jehmco and talk it over with them and see what they suggest. I like the idea of a huge sump, but that be something down the road i will try when i have my own longterm house. I like the pics it reminds me of about 2 weeks ago in my basement. I went with plywood and am not to disappointedd with the outcome.. I just paited it twice after two coats of primer. can wait to see yours take even more shape.


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