# Help! Do I remove 2 lg overflow boxes in 300g with 1?



## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

Hello, ongoing figuring out how to best set up my 300g, 8' tank. It must have originally been built as a room divider as the 2 large overflow boxes project from the ends of the tank leaving 6" spaces in front and behind (the overflows are 12 inches deep). The boxes project out 8+ inches leaving 6' 6 1/2" of open space between boxes. This basically makes in 6" wider than a 6' tank, really loose alot of space!!! This is the tank after I have painted the overflows with Krylon. I have also painted the exterior end sections to block the insides of the overflow boxes (as well as the exterior back).
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I've had the brain wave to take out these boxes, use a piece of the glass to cover the in/out flow holes in the bottom glass panel, and install a glass-holes.com 3000 internal box: http://www.glass-holes.com/3000-Overflo ... 000kit.htm . Taking out the overflow boxes will turn the tank back into an 8 footer and that has me excited! The overflow is $150 (haven't checked out shipping to Canada yet) and that is cheap imo to gain all that space back.

Questions:

1) Is it doable to even get out those overflow boxes? The main tank glass is 3/4" thick, forgot to look if the overflows are the same or not. It might be only 1/2". Abit concerned with the seam up against the tank sides getting scratched when trying to cut the silicone seam.

2) The tank's silicone seam where the side meets the bottom pane, that may well be damaged during the process. Can that ~ 18" strip just be resiliconed and actually seal properly? Can't join new with old silicone I thought? You will see that the bottom pane has reinforced glass strips (about 3" wide) running across both the front and back of the tank. Could I remove the silicone between the front and back strips as well as along the extra support strip to the dimensions of the glass to cover the holes and perfectly fit it into that 18" space? Does that make sense?

3)Glass-holes.com box: any concern with the use of this? Their installation video seems pretty simple but drilling into extremely expensive 3/4" glass in 8' sheets kinda freaks me out. It will drain into a 6' sump. I assume I would still run 2 returns. Total holes drilled = 4. Can't lay the tank flat either as it tanks 6+ people to move it and I don't really have anywhere to lay it flat. Water is needed while drilling so rig up a hose that trickles onto the hole being drilled?

4) Placement of a single overflow box?? I see them installed centrally with a return in each back corner or I see them on 1 end with both returns in the opposite back corner. Obviously creates different flow patterns, what is the advantage of 1 over the other?

5)Should I DIY spray bars for each return if the returns are in each corner?

6) Is there a secret to removing curing Krylon paint? I would be removing paint from the exterior ends of the tank as well as a internally where the front of the overflow box meets the side tank piece.

Any answers to these questions or suggestions would be appreciated.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Nice tank!!! :drooling:

Q #1. It can be difficult to remove the internal overflow boxes depending on how securely the silicone is bonded. Thin blade knife or razor will be a must. Some people report success using piano/guitar wire.

Q #2 You will probably have to completely remove the silicone along the end panels (where the overflow boxes are), clean it very well and apply new silicone. Try not to disturb the front and rear silicone seals when removing the end panel silicone seals. I wouldn't mess with the front and glass support strips at all.

Q #3 I've never used their products.

Q #4 You could forgo using an overflow box as long as you don't patch the holes in the bottom of the tank. You would be using standpipes to drain and return water instead of an overflow box.

Q# 5 I like DIY spray-bars and where you put them will depend on what you decide to do with either the standpipe design or new overflow box design.

Q# 6 Krylon Fusion paint on glass is easily removed with a fresh razor blade. I like to use the wide style paint scraper with the replaceable single edge blades.


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## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

Deeda said:


> Nice tank!!! :drooling:
> 
> Q #1. Some people report success using piano/guitar wire.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply.

1) good idea about the piano wire
2)I agree, this seems like the best and safest way to silicone that end bottom edge. The overflow pieces may come out clean, won't know until they're done.
4) If I can just use stand pipes, then why does everyone use overflow boxes? Are they just to keep fish away for the pipe and prevent they from getting sucked in?
5) will a return stand pipe be sturdy enough for the flow or will it wobble/vibrate?
6) recently bought a hand held scraper that holds the razor blades that are the typical size of razor blades.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

A stand pipe located in the actual fish area of the tank will need to have a strainer or coarse sponge over the opening to prevent fish from getting sucked into it. Overflow boxes actually hide the pipes inside so they aren't visible in the fish area.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Just a quick note; if going with stand pipes, you could easily hide them on the sides with a DIY background/styro rock formations. Still open up space, and add a great, natural look to the tank.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

The main job of an overflow box is to skim the surface water where proteins are drawn to the air/water interface. It is especially useful in a saltwater tank where a protein skimmer located in the sump can quickly remove these organic compounds. A secondary effect is that it promotes better gas exchange by reducing any film on top of the water.

The glassholes setup should work fine. If you are nervous about drilling you could practice on the overflows once you remove them. They look to be glass? The other option is to have a glass shop, or LFS drill them for you.


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## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

b3w4r3 said:


> The main job of an overflow box is to skim the surface water where proteins are drawn to the air/water interface. It is especially useful in a saltwater tank where a protein skimmer located in the sump can quickly remove these organic compounds. A secondary effect is that it promotes better gas exchange by reducing any film on top of the water.
> 
> The glassholes setup should work fine. If you are nervous about drilling you could practice on the overflows once you remove them. They look to be glass? The other option is to have a glass shop, or LFS drill them for you.


good points, I ran protein skimmers on my salt water tank many years ago and that brown liquid was always abit gross!


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