# Water Changes with Fill Hose?



## jf7304 (Oct 26, 2015)

Hi,

I recently moved, and our new house has a long distance between my aquarium and the utility tub, which makes filling and hauling pails across the house a pain. I want to go to the hardware store, and buy a long piece of bulk 3/4" tubing to run from the utility tub and directly fill the tank. This would eliminate hauling 6 pails across the house to replace 30 gallons of water every time I do a water change which is 2-3 times a week. The problem is - how do I dechlorinate that water? I use API dechlorinator when I fill pails, but I always let that water sit for 15 minutes to let the chemicals kick in. I'm not sure how this process would be done if I were to directly refill the tank from the faucet. Any input from anyone who has done this?

Thanks,

Jared


----------



## DutchAJ (Dec 24, 2016)

You can dose your declorinator directly into the tank, then fill straight from the tap. You would dose for your entire tank volume (65 gallon dose in your case, right?)

So:
1. Drain/vac
2. Dose declorinator
3. Fill from tap. Try to match tank water temp as close as possible.


----------



## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

No problem dosing directly to the tank as you add the water. As to how much, read the label - Prime has you dose for entire tank, other brands (NovAqua for one) has you dose for the amount changed. Been changing water via hose for 20 years or so, and even then wondered why the heck I used to deal with buckets! Possibly the single biggest leap in maintenance there is in the hobby.

As for tubing, most of the tubing sold at the local hardware/box stores tends to be thin wall. I've been happy with the python brand tubing which is a thicker wall, but is only 5/8" tubing. A year or so ago, I bought some thicker walled 3/4 tubing on line at a "Fish Room Supply House" and now my changes in the larger tanks go much quicker - the bigger tubing moves a lot more water. PM me if you want the direct link.


----------



## sirdavidofdiscus (Dec 8, 2006)

The tubing on my python hose is much thinner than the 3/4" I bought at a box store. It's so bad it makes the python more flexible.


----------



## My2butterflies (Jul 31, 2016)

Once I got my 75gl I also bought a garden hose just for the tank. No way was I bucket filling it! I hook it up to the kitchen sink that is in the other room about 25ft away. I dose the tank before filling and have never had an issue. Emptying is equally as easy. My tank is right by a window so when I siphon water I just send it right into my garden :lol: I wanted maintenance on this tank as easy as possible. 
I'd love a python system someday, but for now this works great. 
It's also how I fill my koi pool in my basement. My sink is on one side and the pool on the other. So this has made life so much easier.

I've never understood why some people fill buckets even up to a couple days before a water change and let it sit before using. I've been filling my pond, pool, and tanks straight from the tap/well since getting into fish keeping.


----------



## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

I agree with all, but I use a "Brute" container to bring the water to the tank, and then a PH to pump water in. I have a heater in my Brute.

How does everyone adjust the temp correctly on the incoming water?


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I adjust the temperature at the tap/faucet with either my hand or a hand held thermometer.


----------



## DutchAJ (Dec 24, 2016)

I usually just use my hand and watch the tank temp closely, usually it only drops or increases 1-2 degrees, but I pay close attention and usually have to adjust a little bit once or twice. I aim for a 1-2 deg drop.

I have noticed the couple of times the incoming water was a bit lower that the fish were all trying to swim up into the python's vac tube.


----------



## jf7304 (Oct 26, 2015)

Thanks for all the replies!

So from what I understand, the only disadvantage to hose filling is that you double your chemical consumption, because you are treating the entire tank every time, instead of only the amount you would treat in the pails? I'm gotten pretty good at just guessing and matching the water temperature by hand, although I try to add the new water a little bit cooler than the tank temperature. I've read that cooler water changes encourage breeding in cichlids because it simulates a natural rainstorm... not sure how accurate that is, but I have fry so something's right. I think I'll head to the hardware store and pick up a hose and give it a shot!

Just to make sure I have this right... you treat the WHOLE tank's volume (in my case, 65 gallons) immediately BEFORE adding the new water? Nothing you have to do after adding the water?


----------



## DutchAJ (Dec 24, 2016)

jf7304 said:


> Just to make sure I have this right... you treat the WHOLE tank's volume (in my case, 65 gallons) immediately BEFORE adding the new water? Nothing you have to do after adding the water?


Yep that's it! A container of seachem safe goes a LONG way


----------



## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

I treat my hold tank, regardless of how much water I change. I usually change about 1/2 anyway, so I am just double dosing.


----------



## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

jf7304 said:


> Thanks for all the replies!
> 
> Just to make sure I have this right... you treat the WHOLE tank's volume (in my case, 65 gallons) immediately BEFORE adding the new water? Nothing you have to do after adding the water?


NO, read the directions on the product you use. Prime has you treat the entire volume, NovAqua has you treat just the volume of new water. I use NovAqua, and only treat as directed. No issues. I've added it all before, all after, and half and half over the years. Never noticed any differences in how it's added.


----------



## Cyphound (Oct 20, 2014)

Using prime for years and only dose the water being replaced on my 55 and 75 I use one bucket to mix my prime into at the dose suggested for the amount being replaced. The rest gets done with python. Never an issue. Call seachem and talk to a rep.


----------

