# how to attach top of DIY stand to legs?



## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

looking for ideas on how to attach the top of the stand to the legs. 300g 8' x 2' tank. 6' 120 sump underneath.

I'm thinking of building the top with 2x6 on end creating a rectangle. 3 front to back cross braces, also on end. Topped with 1" ply.

Thinking the corner legs will be 2 2x6's at 90 degrees to each other, glued and screwed. 2 mid legs (front and back) evenly spaced, vertical 2x6 to create 3 compartments for doors, this will be a piece of furniture when finished.

Thinking the base to be 2x2 rectangle topped with 1/2 ply to hold 120g sump (couple of cross braces as well). This base would fit inside the legs so the legs can be screwed horizontally into the base sitting behind the bottom of the leg. The legs can then run true to the floor, eliminating a joint.

The top will be sitting right on the vertical legs and I'm looking for options as to how to secure the 2 together. I've thought of using a piece of 2x6 on the interior side, vertical, running from under the ply, down the past the top, then running a short distance down the leg, essentially overlapping the joint. Gluing and screwing this short 2x6 to both the top and the leg. Could use strips of 1" ply in place of the 2x6, not sure if that is strong enough. I can't double up the interior 2x6 and run it to the floor, there isn't enough space front to back. The 300g is 24.5" front to back and the 120 is 22.25". I wish it was simply an 18" tank but it isn't. Top will be 25.5" front to back, minus 1.5" and 1.5" for the legs, leaving 22.5" for the tank to fit into.

My concern is the tank and top tipping forwards with the legs buckling underneath.

Thots appreciated.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I used THIS design from Reef central to build the stand for my 125G tank. It should provide you with the basic instructions for attaching the top and bottom framework to the uprights.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

There isn't any reason to use 2 x 6 for the legs. 2 x 4 swill easily carry the weight. in fact with centre legs I don't think you need to use 2 x 6 for the top frame either. There is no point load on the stand. The weight is evenly distributed across the top. A lot of people are using Kreg jigs for joining two pieces such as the leg on the base. In my opinion for something like this would want something else tying it together such as a relatively strong sheeting on the ends, rather than just a thin skin. the plan in Deedas link is more than a little overkill but the concept is correct. You don't need to have 2, 2 x 4s on each corner for example


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## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

Deeda said:


> I used THIS design from Reef central to build the stand for my 125G tank. It should provide you with the basic instructions for attaching the top and bottom framework to the uprights.


thans Deeda, I have come across this thread but I didn't find where actual attachment methods were found. Mind you, I didn't skim through all 40 pages either! I would have to modify the corners somewhat as I'm very tight for space front to back with the width of the sump. It is unfortunate it's an odd ball dimension. A standard 18" tank would make it easier.
.


BillD said:


> There isn't any reason to use 2 x 6 for the legs. 2 x 4 swill easily carry the weight. in fact with centre legs I don't think you need to use 2 x 6 for the top frame either. There is no point load on the stand. The weight is evenly distributed across the top. A lot of people are using Kreg jigs for joining two pieces such as the leg on the base. In my opinion for something like this would want something else tying it together such as a relatively strong sheeting on the ends, rather than just a thin skin. the plan in Deedas link is more than a little overkill but the concept is correct. You don't need to have 2, 2 x 4s on each corner for example


The tank came on a basic stand that I will replace. Used 2x4 for legs, the corners used to @ 90^, with 2 additional mid supports both front and back. Obviously the 2x4's held fine. The top frame was 2x6 I believe but they were mounted to the inside of the legs so that the ply was not fully support underneath all around the perimeter. The outside 1 1/2" of ply only was supported where the legs met the ply. The ply in between the legs actually had some sag so I won't copy this design. The base of the tank has also been filled with ply so the whole bottom surface is the same but there still was sag on the ply. The design has some flaws but I will correct this with with re-build. If the top frame can be 2x4 then I will gain the extra 2" in work space underneath and that is always good.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

My 125G six foot tank stand was my first build so I just read ALL the threads in the link I posted above. I don't regret using 2 x 6 construction for the top frame at all.

Keep in mind that your tank is an eight foot long one, I don't know if that will impact whether the design should be 2 x 6 for the top or if 2 x 4 is sufficient. Obviously if you are putting in vertical supports between the top and bottom structure, that will make a difference I think.

I dislike the 2x builds that have the top and/or bottom frames between the legs rather than the load carried on top of the vertical supports legs. That design utilizes the fasteners, usually screws, to carry the load.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

I have a stand for a 300 gallon made from 2 x 2's. Welded 2" square steel. In a tight spot, that would be the way to go. 

A wood shell can be attached with magnets and pulled off for full access.

If there is a wall behind your tank on the wood stand, why not use lag screws into the wood studs of that wall. Use a longer lag if there has to be a space between the stand and wall.


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## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

Mcdaphnia said:


> I have a stand for a 300 gallon made from 2 x 2's. Welded 2" square steel. In a tight spot, that would be the way to go.
> 
> A wood shell can be attached with magnets and pulled off for full access.
> 
> If there is a wall behind your tank on the wood stand, why not use lag screws into the wood studs of that wall. Use a longer lag if there has to be a space between the stand and wall.


I have thought about using lags into the studs behind. There will be a space as overflow pipes etc need some space but figured I could take up the dead space with 2x4 spacers. Might mean 8"+ bolts though! Not sure if a 3/8" lag or close to it exists at that length. I had thought only of lagging the legs but if I was to lag the top frame that would add some security. Still need to attach the top to the legs though somehow.


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## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

what was fabrication costs on that steel stand? Stainless steel or just steel that was painted, or powder coated?


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

Powder coated steel. The welder was a real pro. Somewhere in a shape like this there is some member that has tension on it. Everything looks dead on in ths stand. We bought tank and stand together, and I suspect the stand may have cost more than we paid for both used.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Lag_bolts_Hex_ ... l_3_8.aspx

You can get up to 12" lag bolts at Bolt Depot. I might use a spacer, like 1.5" or 2" PVC pipe with the bolt running inside.


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