# plugging drilled tank



## walleye (Aug 20, 2007)

I'm thinking of getting a 58 gal oceanic tank. This one is salt water ready and predrilled in the bottom. Do they make bulkhead plugs, or would I have to put a capped pipe thru a bulkhead fittting? Has anyone done this? If it's to much hassle, I may not get it. Also, would it be much work to remove the overflow box in the corner?

Thanks,
Steve


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## herb (Mar 23, 2003)

as for capping the hole in tank, a tank fitting, short pipe and cap are the most secure way to seal a drilled hole, A piece of glass siliconed down will work too, harder to undo tho, for overflow box someone else will have to help i have never seen them as i have home made wet/dry systems.

ps if you think you may use the holes in future you might want to leave pipe long enough to cut off cap and attach something else ( whatever you need from a plumbing point of view). hope this helps

herb


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## Jake at River City (Jul 31, 2007)

You can put a threaded by threaded bulkhead in and plug it with a threaded pvc "plug". You can also add a ball valve on the bottom of the tank for reassurance. The overflow box can be cut out with a razor. They're usually siliconed in.


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

Jake at River City said:


> You can put a threaded by threaded bulkhead in and plug it with a threaded pvc "plug". You can also add a ball valve on the bottom of the tank for reassurance. The overflow box can be cut out with a razor. They're usually siliconed in.


what he said about plugging the bulkhead.

It also depends on if it is glass or acrylic as to whether the overflow will be silicone in or not. But chances are it is a glass tank. If it is acrylic however removing the overflow would be a PITA, I wouldn't even remove it ion that case I would just plug the hole.

Why don't you want to use a wet/dry sump?


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## walleye (Aug 20, 2007)

Thanks for the info. The tank looks like the sides have been painted and somewhat scratched off. I was going to use this tank as a direct replacement for a 40 breeder. Stand, top, light, filters would just swap out. Looks like it might be more work than it's worth. Plus gas alone to get it would probably cost more than the tank.


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## Toby_H (Apr 15, 2005)

If fuel ruins the deal that's one thing...

But the hole can be plugged with a $2 piece of Plexiglass and $.25 worth of silicone... and takes about 1 minute4s worth of work and 24 hours to dry...

It isn't difficult...


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## walleye (Aug 20, 2007)

The plugging I thought would be ok. It's the cutting the overflow box out and removing all the paint from the sides without scratching all the glass up. I think I'll wait till I find a nice clean 58. The 40 I have is in really good shape. I'd hate to replace it with a scratched up tank.


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## kornphlake (Feb 12, 2004)

I bought a 20g at a thrift store a few weeks ago, it had the back painted blue when I bought it and I'd considered just leaving it until I realized how bad it looked, it was streaky/runny and had several scratches and scuffs so I decided to remove it. Judging by the finish it was enamel spray paint not the latex usually suggested for painting tanks, it all came off really easily with a razor blade though, it was almost fun it was so easy to remove and I got it all off without a single scratch. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another tank that has been painted now that I know how easy it is to remove. If gas is really the deal breaker then it is what it is, but I wouldn't let something like paint keep me from a deal on an aquarium.


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## booba5 (May 3, 2008)

^^^^second that, windex and a razor blade works wonders for removing paint, my 75 was clean in less than 10 min...do it outside though, you'll have lots of black (or whatever color the paint is) powder, and it gets everywhere.


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