# My DIY tank cabinet



## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

Hi all, i have been researching and looking everywhere for ideas and plans to build my own cabinet for my tank. I have finally started building and i have the base of the frame done already.

The whole frame is built with 2x4's then oak and pine plywood to cover it up and shelve it. I'm going to stick with normal plywood to cover the outside of the cabinet to save cost instead of using pine ply, and i'l use the oak ply for the shelves.

What i'm after is some advice on how to finish the normal plywood. Can you cover the grain of the plywood so you cant see it when finished. Plywood doesnt have a nice grain so i dont want to see it.
Can i stain or paint to cover the grain? Also would staining the oak ply for the shelves be ok?

Some pics of the build in progress below.

Wood all cut and ready to go









Base assembled









Thanks for looking and any help and advice would be nice.


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## Morpheus (Nov 12, 2008)

If you stain it, you will still see the grain. Best bet is a coat or two of a good primer, then paint. Even then, if the plywood is not a high quality plywood you may still see the grain.


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## RaizedWICKED (Feb 10, 2010)

Paint may work, but again the grain my still be somewhat visible.. There are some plywoods that are a bit more expensive they take stain very well and the grain is nice looking.

Try a test peice of the ply you plan on using, paint one and stain one see how it looks. Staining the shleves would be fine.

See the inside panels of the doors on my stand, that is 1/4" cheap plywood, stain took nicely to it. Keep in mind i used wood conditioner as well as sanding with 220grit sandpaper. So results may vary 










Good luck so far looking good.

RW


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

You did not mention and I don't see it in the pics but some good yellow glue will do wonders for adding strength to the joints. Spikes can tend to loosen over time but the combination will hold forever. I would go with paint as it makes a slick surface to wipe off without the drag of staining them poly with all the fuss that involves. I like the look of black as it also shows small imperfections less than lighter colors. Wiping water drips off is a constant job when working in the tanks so you do want a surface which does not absorb the water. Many commercial stands here are simply stained without any poly finish and they soak it all in and it shows after a few years.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

You can laminate it, you will need the laminate, a roller, some spray on adhesive, a file to file all edges, box cutter or router. The router may save a lot of headaches. If you do it this way, pm me and I can instruct you on how to do it.


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

RaizedWICKED said:


> Paint may work, but again the grain my still be somewhat visible.. There are some plywoods that are a bit more expensive they take stain very well and the grain is nice looking.
> 
> Try a test peice of the ply you plan on using, paint one and stain one see how it looks. Staining the shleves would be fine.
> 
> ...


Thanks lads for the replys. good idea for the doors actually, i was gona use hard wood for the doors and put trim round the sides, i take it you used a router for nothcing out the wood so you could put the 1/4" ply into the frame/trim.

How did you put the moulding on outside of the cabinet ontop of the cover?

Thanks again.


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## RaizedWICKED (Feb 10, 2010)

aaronjunited said:


> RaizedWICKED said:
> 
> 
> > Paint may work, but again the grain my still be somewhat visible.. There are some plywoods that are a bit more expensive they take stain very well and the grain is nice looking.
> ...


I used my table saw to cut grooves in the door frames to take the 1/4" ply But you can use a router.

The molding on the cabinet was glued and nailed. I used a tube of carpenters glue just on this stand.  for molding, becasue it has no structural purpose can just be glued this way you can avoid having to use wood fill.

RW


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

Ok a wee update on my progress. *** sanded down the whole base of the frame with 100 grit and its now very smooth and flat for the vertical suuport beams.

I have ordered 3/4" plywood and 3/4" oak plywood for the shelves and to cover the frame. I will be adding the vertical support beams today after sanding them down slighty to get rid of the roughness. Then i'l add the bottom shelves hopefully today aswell. I will update with pictures after this is done.


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

Here is a few pics of the update.

Vertical Support beams on


















Second ring completed, with shelves to add before the 3rd ring is added.


















Thanks for looking and i will add updates as i go.
Any questions please ask.


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## RaizedWICKED (Feb 10, 2010)

looking good... 

keep the pics coming opcorn:

RW


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## el mucho grande (Mar 27, 2010)

If you want to paint the exterior of the cabinet without seeing the raised grain of plywood, you could use MDF (medium density fiberboard) it is flat, stable and cheaper than ply (at least in my area). MDF will soak up water like a sponge if left untreated so if you go this route make sure you paint all surfaces of it, also the cut edges of MDF will fuzz up when painting, to keep this from happening mix some wood glue with an equal amount of water then brush it on the edges, when dry sand the edges with 220 grit and you will get a perfectly smooth edge.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

opcorn:


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## jamaicabraden (Sep 24, 2010)

nice thread.


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