# Learn from my mistakes! DIY all the way



## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

So i have made several tanks, but i just finished my first cichlid tank and its cycling at the moment.

I ordered the glass for the tank in start january, and started building mid january.

Heres some recent pictures: (everything is DIY, except canisters, powerheads, etc)


















This tank has:
FX5 canister
2 powerheads 1200 l/h
70w warmth
air-filter
Thermostat
PH-divice
Sump
Double T-5 and T-8 lighting for day/night
Everything runs automaticly turns on/off at specific times
To come is a water regulator that fills up water everytime some evaporate.

I have discovered alot of hints and tricks along the way including what to do and what not to do, wrong information vs right information.

This thread will be about asking most common questions if in doubt.

More pictures to come along the way. 
Regards Tobi, Denmark.


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## ndblaikie (Oct 12, 2011)

Those blocks are not the greatest to use as a tank stand for a large tank like that.

I would seriously consider building a proper wooden stand for them.

Looks good otherwise though.


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## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

ndblaikie said:


> Those blocks are not the greatest to use as a tank stand for a large tank like that.
> 
> I would seriously consider building a proper wooden stand for them.
> 
> Looks good otherwise though.


The blocks you see on the picture "aerated concrete" probably carrys the whole building your sitting in right now, unless you in a older house or a DIY one lol.
Theese c2 blocks is 0.8 ton a 0.1m2. Each block should be able just about double the tank weight each. Tricky is to get cut them straight.

The problem about those blocks is the floor that they are having a constant pressure on*

And thank you 

Regards Tobi


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## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

ndblaikie said:


> Those blocks are not the greatest to use as a tank stand for a large tank like that.
> 
> I would seriously consider building a proper wooden stand for them.
> 
> Looks good otherwise though.


Also a wooden stand would not improve this issue by any means. Wood expands at temperatures and pressure. aerated concrete does not and therefore the safest way.
It looks terrible compared to wood i agree.
Also most factory-made wooden stands has an easy lower/lift ability that can be very usefull.


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## FedEXguy (Feb 24, 2005)

How big is your tank and how did you put together the glass elements? I can't tell from the pics what the edge material is.


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## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

FedEXguy said:


> How big is your tank and how did you put together the glass elements? I can't tell from the pics what the edge material is.


I understand that, simply because its taped till i build a blue or wooden frame for it.
The tank is about 220g with a bow front, the rear and back and front is 0.8mm and bottom the double.
I cut 3 circels for the sump/overflow bottom cornor behind the BG but ofcourse that is hidden.
It is all glued with GE-1


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## FedEXguy (Feb 24, 2005)

Cool. Are all edges just siliconed and taped? I'd be nervous filling it with water, if so (but I'm a cautious type.) I look forward to seeing it come along, though


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## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

FedEXguy said:


> Cool. Are all edges just siliconed and taped? I'd be nervous filling it with water, if so (but I'm a cautious type.) I look forward to seeing it come along, though


No tape, only silicone and NOTHING else. Silicone alone keep the tanks intact, those metal/wood/etc frames you see is only for the look, they do not provide any assistance, it was famous in the early 60's but silicone quickly dominated the aquarium market. I have always used silicone for tanks, easiest and safest way.

I have seen a very interresting project the other day, a tank under 1g pressure, kept together with silicone, but heres the funny part; (its a octogon aquarium) none of the glass plates meets anywhere near close to eachother, between every plate theres glued 2inches of pure silicone in between, thats how strong it is.


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## tim_s (Nov 27, 2011)

Hi,

I would be very interested to know what brand silicone you used, I have re-silicone(d) an older tank but yet to fashion my own.

I am building a sump as we speak and I was disappointed in the strength, It was challenging to take apart but not as challenging as I imagined.

Would love recommendations on a product.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

GE I was used for the above project from the info posted. If you want something stronger, than GE I, GE 1200 series is significantly stronger. It isn't necessary for sealing, but would be a good idea for a large tank to hold it together.


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## tim_s (Nov 27, 2011)

I.e. GE 1 Silicone Windows and Doors? - Must of used a lot anytime I have used this product I have found that over time it is very easy to take apart.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

I'm not sure what you mean by easy to take apart. If the gap is big enough it is fairly easy to cut with monofilament fishing line. Do you mean you can pull it apart?


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## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

tim_s said:


> Hi,
> 
> I would be very interested to know what brand silicone you used, I have re-silicone(d) an older tank but yet to fashion my own.
> 
> ...


Hi Tim, i have always used this

http://www.bostik.dk/Products/Direct/P0110.aspx (non commercial its a company that doesnt ship overseas but similar should be available in the US)

The site is in my language, heres google-translates translation of description:
Suitable for sealing and installation of aquariums, gluing silikonetÃƒÂ¦tningslister. Sealing of structures in glass, enamel, stainless steel, acrylic, polyester and similar materials. Apply Bostik Silicone Wet 2650 for wet rooms.
Technical data:
Operating temperature: +5 Ã‚Â° C to +40 Ã‚Â° C
Flammable: No
Color: Transparent
Tack-free surface: Approx 30 min.
Hardness: Approx 23 Ã‚Â° Shore A
Motion Capture: Ã‚Â± 25% of original joint width
Temperature: -50 Ã‚Â° C to +200 Ã‚Â° C
Resistance to aging: good to UV rays, ozone and climate impacts
Paintable: No
Chemical resistance: very good against most chemicals.
Special requirements:
Meets the requirements of ISO 11600

On my next project i am planning to use this (cheaper) silicone:
http://www.akvarieforretningen.dk/produ ... roduct=492 (non commercial its a company that doesnt ship overseas but similar should be available in the US)

Which is a (in my oppinion) very trusted aquarium-makemake/diy company called "akvastabil" which means "Aqua-Stable" in Danish.

I have heard that in US most stores carry GE-1 silicone, and as everywhere else you must be cautious not to buy the Bathroom version that contains "anti-mold" toxins, which will with a 100 percent guarantee kill any fish you introduce to the aquarium, instead the box should say "GE-1 window and door" or something similar, hope you get the point.

On the "easy to take apart" part, silicone is very easy to spoil with any sharp object. Actually you should be able to let a heavy knife slide right through nearly any thickness of silicone, but when it comes down to keeping something together, especially glass it is nearly imposible to rip apart. The chance of glass breaking is nearly 100% more certain than the silicone breaking. 
If you are not certain of the strength, glue a thicker layer of silicone. 
If you bought an old aquarium, it can pay off to cut off the old silicone and glue new on it. Remember to let it dry at room temperature before you do anything else with it.

Hope this helps. Tobi


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## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

BillD said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by easy to take apart. If the gap is big enough it is fairly easy to cut with monofilament fishing line. Do you mean you can pull it apart?


lol strong man


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## FedEXguy (Feb 24, 2005)

Oh, my mistake. I saw the black line running around your tank, and assumed it was connected. On closer inspection I can tell that it is not.


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## 123vb123 (Feb 10, 2012)

Yep, building a wooden frame that fits the future stand aswell


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