# DIY Canopy Question - clearance



## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

I have never had a canopy on any of my tanks, and will be acquiring a second 150 in the next week or so. :thumb: This one needs a stand, and as I in the planning portion of a basement renovation which includes 22 linear feet of built in cabinets and shelves along a basement wall, and want to include the tank in this project.

For those who have a canopy on their tanks, how much clearance is necessary when the front piece is folded up for tank access? I have tried to figure this out based on my existing tanks and *think* 10" vertically, and about half the tank's depth (F2B). Does this seem reasonable, or should I go larger?

Is there any advantage to having the top hinge upwards, vs side to side, like cabinet doors might?

If you have made one--and had to redo one, what changes would you make in design, and why?

Thanks

nodima


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

I've made them, and I have thought, why not just make the front so it lifts off and you set it aside to work on the tank. Just have to remember to put it where I won't step on it. Recently though I've taken a liking to the Euro design of just hanging lights from the ceiling over the tank.


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## aji1217 (Aug 22, 2009)

more clearance (10" is less that I would go...went 6" the first time...terrible idea) and larger doors (I decided to do swinging cabinet style doors...made them WAY too small. I need a stool to feed em. Next time I think I may go with sliding doors. cabinet making is not my forte...took me way too many tries to get the doors hung right.


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

I'm wanting to make my own hood aswell. *** a friend giving me his 5ft tank. And i'm looking for some designs for making a nice hood, with sliding doors or ofcourse an inset that you can lift out for feeding etc.


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## Rick_Lindsey (Aug 26, 2002)

I've had one where the whole lid lifted (lights and all), but the front didn't open at all. It was kind of a PITA with the lights going up and all. If I were to build one today, I'd probably go with the style where the whole front half of the canopy hinges back to rest on the back half of the canopy, assuming that i wasn't needing ueber-lights that had to cover the whole surface of the tank.

I'd also make it with a mildly slanted top so i wasn't tempted to set things on top of it!

-Rick (The armchair aquarist)


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## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

Thanks for the feedback.

I have thought a lot about the lights, and am currently leaning towards a design where the front opens up the length of the tank, up 10 inches and set up the lights in a way such that the fixture(s) can slide forwards and backwards as needed. So when the tank is being worked on, they can be moved to the rear, and in normal operation, moved back up towards the front middle. I found this idea in a canopy building thread somewhere...

The slanted top idea is funny, but at the same time it sounds an awful lot like Murphy prevention. In my case, there will be nothing that can be put on the top, as the canopy will have an additional cabinet above it as part of the built ins which will not block the opening for access.

One reason for my desire for a canopy is to minimize or eliminate "light bleed", that is light that escapes from the tank around the fixture. Additionally, I will be closing off the ends of the tank as well which should serve the same purpose, really making the tank appear to be "built in" as I really like that look.


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

Good idea mate. Sounds really good, its fun to think of these things and to get them into action and start building is exciting. Good luck with it.


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

*built in cabinets and shelves along a basement wall, and want to include the tank in this project. *

That will look very good..consider, faux cabinets over the tank..open bottom, you could still use hanging lights, or flip ups..might even have adjustable shelf brackets with lighting mounted to bottom of shelf..
my $0.02


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I have recently finished building a canopy. After some advise from other forum members I went with a style that has the front fixed solid to the top which is split a bit more than half way to the rear. This gets me almost full access to work in the tank as well as clearing the reach over the front problem. I am very satisfied with the design of the canopy but would recommend making a bit more room at the back to lift my HOB filter up and out when needed. I wish that I had cut a small opening in the top or side with a swinging flap to open for feeding rather than opening the whole top. Unable to give a real dimention for what you will need on your tank without knowing more about how deep front to back and what equipment you will use with it. My canopy is six inches top of tank to canopy top. Eighteen inches front to back with the top split at eleven front and seven back. I flip the front fully back to rest on the back when open. This requires the canopy be fastened to the tank solidly. My opening requires a maximum height of thirteen inches from the canopy top for the front bottom edge to clear anything above. Some vertical space could be saved if a way was provided to hold the top at less than full opening. Also moving the top split toward the front makes the upper swing less but it does reduce the open working space. One very strong word of warning about closing it in too tightly. While there seems to be little heating from lights when the tank is exposed, there will be tremendous heat build up over time when it has no room to vent. If fully enclosed, a venting system is almost certainly needed. Mine gets much hotter than expected even though I only use two CFL mini- twist bulbs and the back is fully open. My two lights are hung from the inner top of the back fixed part of the canopy so that they do not move when the top opens.


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## gtphale (Oct 12, 2008)

how about putting clips on the front so that you could just remove the front for feeding.Thats the idea I have been kicking around.


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

Pfunmo what way have you attatched your lights to the top of the canopy on the inside. What lights did you use? And what type are they?


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I should think clips might work out okay if you have a place to set the top while working. A clip strong enough to hold firmly without danger of falling out might have to close with quite a bang that my fish would not like but I tend to bumble around and knock things like that over so like it fastened.  
aaronunited-- I have used temporary construction bulb holders to hold two lights. These may or may not be available to you but there should be something like them? I drilled a hole through a small block of wood to place a plastic tie-wrap through the hole, around the bulb holder and pulled it tight. Then I placed a bolt through the top of the canopy down through the block and screwed on the nut. I also have a small thin metal sheet to block the light shining in my eyes when the hood is open. With this bulb holder and using the mini-twist CFL they only stick down the width of the bulb ( maybe 2- 21/2 inches?) rather than the full length of the holder and bulb which would be too long. Currently I have no way to post to this forum. Perhaps I could send you a PM?? They look somewhat industrial when the canopy is open and the bulb cover is removed but if one is that deep into my aquarium he must be working there so it doesn't bother me. :thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

aaronjunited
E-mail with pics headed your way?


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

thanks very much mate. your a legend. :thumb:


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## gtphale (Oct 12, 2008)

I have used these on a mantle for a fireplace before and they don't slam in at all. I also dropped a couple magnets onto the front for added security. I used it as a safe to store things out of sight. Was a great little hiding spot.


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

did you send to [email protected] mate?


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Just got back and found your message. I thought I had and no mail was returned???? Am sending it again now. Not to clutter the forum, let me know if they don't arrive [email protected]


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## aaronjunited (Sep 29, 2009)

cheers mate arrived, class idea. looks good.


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

*One reason for my desire for a canopy is to minimize or eliminate "light bleed", that is light that escapes from the tank around the fixture. Additionally, I will be closing off the ends of the tank as well which should serve the same purpose, really making the tank appear to be "built in" as I really like that look.*

Post some pics when done, please.


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## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

While not "DONE" yet, progress has been made over the past year. Instead of going with a 150, we decided to make it a 180 so the Frontosa have some additional turning room. 

The project will be attacked in 3 phases, as it is larger than I can take on in a single swoop and still spend time with my daughter and wife. 

So, at this point Phase 1 is complete. All the base units are installed, along with the end units and face frames. The tank is up an running, albeit with a shoplight over it. Phase 2 will be the remaining 14 raised panel doors to close off the remaining base units. Phase 3 will include the tank canopy, bookshelves to the right, and a TV alcove to the left of the tank.

Here are a couple of shots along the way:

Framing and lower base units









Door close up









Tank in place









Not a fish:









Tank up and running









One more view









FWIW - the raised panels were done by hand, without the use of "tailed" tools. Used a combination of hand planes to bevel edges, dado, and groove the pieces. Also hand cut the mortise and tenon joints in the doors.


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