# Overflow returns



## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

I'm getting back into the hobby after raising children for 25 years. My last tank was a std. 55 with tinfoils and a pair of keyholes. I'm ordering a 72"X24"X25" soon and was wondering if anyone has ever had the returns from a sump plumbed up from the overflows but turned(90*) to exit low to drive the UGJ? That way they would be hidden by the BG covering the overflow boxes. If I ever wanted to change things I could just plug the bulkheads and go out the top. I have been reading on this site for a couple months now and have not heard of anyone doing this. Am I missing something? I have a hundred other ?'s I'll ask later. I've never posted before, so if I do something wrong..sorry.

Dan


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## fishyfishyfishy (Dec 24, 2005)

I've got my 450g plumbed like that. A 1.5" return comes up through the overflow and into a tee above the tank. From there, there are 3 returns going to the left and 3 to the right. 2 of the 3 on each side are normal returns with the third on either end plumbed down into a gravel jet underneth all my rock.

Works great. Only thing to make sure of is that you have anti-siphon holes drilled into your returns, otherwise your tank would drain all the way when shut down.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

What about just using check valves on the returns?


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## fishyfishyfishy (Dec 24, 2005)

check valves can fail....i'd never rely on just that


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Well I ordered my 180 this afternoon :thumb: I will pick it up July 14th if all goes well! I am thinking about putting two return pumps from the single sump to my UGJ. My thinking is two smaller pumps will more efficient than one larger pump. I have been reading about these DIY 3-D backgrounds, but it seems most people have more problems than success.Thoughts?

Dan


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

Most failures are due to the styrofoam floating, bad mixes and/or curing time before submersion. Thier are also a lot of successful backgrounds where everything went right. Have a look at this sticky to see what has worked for others. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... hp?t=99515


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Well I picked up my new 180 yesterday...651 miles round trip. Let the fun begin!! 
I decided not to use the sump pumps for the UGJ, instead I'm buying seperate powerheads for the task.
Can someone explain how to post pic's here..so as to be able to keep everyone up to date. 
Thanks, Dan


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

Read this sticky. It should help. Personally, I use Photobucket. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... hp?t=21085


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Iceblue..Thanks for the tip on pic's I'll give it a try. I am not a computer guy buy no means..so be gentle!

[/img]http://s335.photobucket.com/albums/m469/DanDee54/th_IMG_0938.jpg







http://s335.photobucket.com/albums/m469/DanDee54/th_IMG_0943.jpg[/img]

Now for a stand! Ice you got any drawings for a good one for a 180 all glass..it weights 400# empty!
Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Well that didn't work! :-? 

























That's better  Not sure how to enlarge them.

Dan


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

Did you download to Photobucket? Under each picture you have several choices to download from. The last one at the bottom already has the quote marks in it. If you left click to block it out in blue you can then right click it to copy. Then just paste it to your post. Do a preview to see if it works. It should give you the larger picture.

I'm no computer guy either and in fact more a ludite then anything else. I have to ask my 12 year old for help when I get in a jam.

Use the "Search Discussion" option at the bottom left of the home page and do a search for diy stands. Grab a cup of coffee and enjoy. Thier is a lot of info there.

Nice aquarium by the way. :thumb:


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

If you take a 90 right inside the bottom of the tank then you can't have a hole for anti-siphon because the line is never above water level. I agree not to trust check-valves. Sorry if I"m mis-reading your intentions.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Ice..Thanks for the tip...again. My daughter use to help me also, but she has been out of the house for over a year now so I'm on my own. Believe it or not she works for SeaChem! I'm hope'in for a break on supplies! :thumb: Anyhow..I'm going to keep a log on this site of my build..so I need to be trained on how to use it!


























Tannable...I'm not going to use the the sump returns for the UGJ. I'll use a couple powerheads instead..and sleep better! They can be hidden in the back corners of the tank.

Thanks Guys,
Dan


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## jorgy (Nov 28, 2007)

Did you get that stand figured out? I built a really nice one for my 90 gallon


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Still grinding over the design jorgy. My problem is the large bulkheads out the bottom..I will need enough room to attach them, but I don't want to compromize the double 2" X 4" that are the main supports for the top. My design is 72 1/2" X 26" X 30" tall. With double 2 by's front and back, plus 1/2" plywood front and back, that gives me 22 1/2" from the front to the first 2 by. That's close! I'm still at work, :lol: so I will do some more measur'in when I get home.
Dan


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## jorgy (Nov 28, 2007)

My bulk heads are in the back center. I used 2x4 as well, on the corners I put double legs on it one 3.5 shorter tan the other to bear the weight of the tank. I also used 3/4 birch ply finish grade for my ext. and for the tank to sit on. But mine is a canopy surround and the tank was inserted from the rear because of a face frame. The canopy lifts off for maint. and there is a large front access door for the sump and a small door in the canopy for feeding.


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## djoneser (Mar 20, 2008)

For your returns, take a look at the durso standpipes, they seem to be well designed to keep the tank quiet. http://www.dursostandpipes.com/


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Well guys/gals I got started on the stand tonight. I decided on 72 1/2" X 26 1/2" X 30" tall. I know I will have a couple inches in the back of the tank, but I needed the clearance for the bulkheads without cutting the 2X4's. I'll pick up the plywood tomorrow and hope to finish the build. Maybe stain this weekend. I'll be off Friday as my Wife and I are going to the ACA Show in Atlanta :fish: I think I'll be happy this build isn't done yet...my daughter says the fish at this show would bring out the wallet!! :lol: 
djoneser..ya I plan on using durso drains in my set-up,Thanks









This helps!!





































More tomorrow...I hope,

Dan


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## Hoosier Tank (May 8, 2007)

Nice... interested in watching your build up! opcorn: 
The middle pic of the tank in shrink wrap, is that your sump? What are the dimensions on it? Looks to have a nice footprint. Might make an intersting shell dweller tank...


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Yes my sump..it's 36" X 18" X 13"tall. The only problem is ...it's going to be a TIGHT FIT :-? I have 19" between the legs of the stand! I am also tight in height! My plan is to have two separate bio containers with two Quiet One 4000 pumps...one from each overflow, but in a common sump. Do you see a flaw in my thinking?
It's been a long time since my old 55, I need all the help I can get! 

Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Frame is done! :thumb: Fish show tomorrow...Plywood Sat. Maybe stain Sunday. Man the sump is a tight fit!  If it fails down the road , the only option will be to take the end piece of plywood off and pull it out the end of the stand. That also means cutting the 2X4 end posts back enough to get it out! I liked my stand design to much to change it and figured I'll cross that bridge when I get there. 

































The beer is an extra!
I'll let Y'all know how the show goes!

Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Well I made some serious progress over the weekend. :thumb: The ACA show in Atlanta was good, although most of the "Good" fish were not going to be there until Sunday. I will post a couple pic's later. The build is coming along great.
I have a couple ?'s for everyone.
1. Should you silicone the bulkhead fittings in the tank?
2. How tight do you need to get them?
3. They will be hard to get at once the tank is on the stand, ideas?

























My design allows the whole door to come out.








Sump in place.








Top view of the overflow box.

More later,
Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

All, 
I forgot to ask what is the best paint(flat black?) to use on the back of the tank? Just in case some day it may need to be taken off!
Thanks,
Dan


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

I used a latex "eggshell" black on mine. It took 3 coats but I was real happy with the result. A window razor with water for lubrication will take it off easily enough.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Thanks ice! What are your thoughts on putting silicone on the bulk-heads?
Dan


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

Don't do it. Others here have tried it before and the results weren't satisfactory. If I remember right your supposed to turn it untill slightly snug and then give it another 1/4 turn. Could be wrong and maybe someone else can jump in and correct me if I am.


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

smear a little Vaseline on the seals then just hand tighten.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi all...Got the tank on the stand,with the back painted black, and the bulkheads installed.
Next the major plumbing...looks like another trip to HD tomorrow. I' m thinking about two power heads, one in each back corner for two closed loop UGJ. Five jets each loop..maybe Rio 2100's?

All or any tips are welcome!

Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Well my progress is still slow, but I'm on a mission! The bulkhead seals had to come out, I used Vasoline as a lube to help tighten them and a number of guys on the site gave me the business about that. I figure they know a lot more about them than I do. Got my first wet-dry filter up and running, no leaks :thumb: Put a GFCI outlet in the wall, I don't do well with things you can't see!
The Sterilite drawers will take up most of the sump. The heaters may have to go under the drawers. Here are a couple more pic's. Feel free to let me know about my mistakes.  
Dan








The first H2O!








Wet/Dry








Circulating water :thumb:


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

Thats a neat idea with the drawers. When you have everything up and running, make sure you don't have to much water in the sump. There needs to be enough room for all the water to drain back out of the lines and for the tank level to settle at the overflow line, this can amount to quite a bit sometimes. A good test is to have your sump tank fairly empty, just enough so the pump works properly and mark the level. Then pull the plug and after the water levels out mark that level and measure the distance. Then put a mark that is that same distance from the top of the tank and this is your maximum fill line.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi all,
Got my first fish :fish: Grandsonchromis sp.Aidan
Finished the other wet/dry filter and have the two Durso drains complete. What would everyone recommend for how tall they should be? When running, the water line is about 2" below the overflow glass. That seems high but I don't know. I will be working on the UGJ today. I thought about using Rio 2100 pumps, but the pumps I bought for the sump (Quiet One 4000) are still on sale so I may use them and there for keep the same pumps for all applications. They are rated at about 1000 gph so I figure 5 jets on each closed loop. Set the two pumps in each corner. What can I use for a pre-filter for them? They have 1" NPT threads.

More later
Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Well I ran out of 3/4" tees, so I'm taking a break before I head to HD.

Dan









Both Wet/Dry's








Half the UGJ's
















This will be the center piece :thumb: 








Another shot of the Holey rock








The support rock


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

the grandson pic is awesome. I may have to put my boy in the tank when I break it down to add eggcrate.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi All! 
Well I made some serious head way this weekend :thumb: My Daughter brought me 300# of SeaChem Black Onyx sand for the substrate  So I spent most of Sat. washing sand. I'm not sure you could ever get it totally clean. Her friend then helped put the Texas Holey rock in, it weighs about 75#, I would have never tried to do that by myself  Then added 110# of Colorado smooth stones. Then siliconed some substrate to each of my jet tips, not totally hidden but not bad. I'm not sure if this is the look I want long term, but most here say it takes a while changing things up until it works. 
Please let me know your thoughts..I'm a big boy it won't hurt to bad! :lol: 
Dan


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## crotalusfan (Jun 21, 2008)

Looks absolutely awesome. :thumb: I can't wait 'till I can talk my wife into letting me spend some "real" money on my fish.


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## greenbirds (Jul 30, 2007)

And here I thought I got a good deal when petsmart put that Black Onyx substrate on clearance for $7 per 20 lb bag :lol:. It's nice stuff, and I really like it for a substrate. Great looking project overall, nice job on the stand.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi All! I've been away a while and figured I owed everyone an update. I had to go to the beach for a week to keep the BOSS happy  . I did get to go to the Mote Aquarium...and that was good! Got back in town last weekend and filled the tank. Had a problem with my C-360...leak in the pump head :x . They are going to replace it for me.  Made a couple changes in where all the rock sets to help the UGJ work a little better. So...now for a fish list....I know I'm going for Peacocks and Haps. Any thoughts out there? Let me know! I will be buying on-line as there are limited choices where I live. They will be all Juvies as I want to raise them.

Dan









H2O going in!








Full and running


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Back again with an update.  I built the canopy last weekend. Bought T8 shop lights at the HD for $20 a piece, pretty good deal I thought! :thumb: Had to modify the reflectors a little to be able to get them closer together. I have a piano hinge that runs across the whole width of the tank so the whole front opens up. It is a little heavier than I thought it would be, but I can deal with.  It allows great access to all the glass lids and I like how it turned out!! :thumb:

I hope I don't rub some folks the wrong way but....I am cycling the tank with FISH! I'm sorry but I am old school and dumping straight ammonia into a large tank and trying to keep 3 ppm just doesn't seem right! I have 13 Danio's, 11 Barbs, and 5 Cory cats in there. I am not in a huge hurry to get the "Real" fish so I can wait for the cycle.










































Later all,
Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi all! Got my two C-360 canisters today :thumb: Set them up tonight, no runs, no drips, no errors!!  Also got my hardness kit and need everyones input on that. Remember the tank has been up for only two weeks, but here are the numbers.
NH3,4=0
NO2 =0
NO3 =.25
dkh = 5
GH =12
PH = 7.6
No salt added yet, and will not order :fish: :fish: :fish: for at least 3 more weeks.
Thoughts anyone??

Couple pics of the finished sump and canisters.

















Later Dan


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

Why are you going to add salt? What fish are you going to keep?

I keep the oooh sooo scary tropheus. All the stories I had read before getting them say they need the water buffered and 8.0+ ph and what not to breed and even survive hasn't been an issue. I use straight dechlorinated tap water with no other additives or anything besides SeaChem Prime.

My Duboisi have been breeding regularly since I got them on May 15th I currently have 23 fry.

The tank, stand, and canopy look good. Did you buy the canopy or did you build it also? If you built it where are the pictures? I only saw the stand pictures.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi Irked, 
Well I was under the impression that Peacocks and Haps would need some salt to be happy? I would love to not have to do anything to my tap water. I know my tap water is pretty hard, and on the alk side of neutral, those are pluses. I may just leave as is and see what happens.

I built the canopy, sorry no work in process pics  It was pretty much straight forward job. Used the wood left over from the stand so as it would match. The lid is a little heavier than I thought it would be  I'll deal with it! It turned out real nice! :thumb:

Thanks for the response. I didn't think anyone was reading this any more!

Dan


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## Hoosier Tank (May 8, 2007)

Oh yeah, been reading it all along, just not posting!!
Kind like this... opcorn:


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hoosier,Irked...any ideas to turn those two butt ugly blue prefilters black with out having a cluster down the road(like paint that will eventuality fall off)?
Dan


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

All fish can adapt to different water parameters. Haps and Peacocks aren't any different. The only place where I see the need to buffer is with wild fish because they are coming from the lake. The other generations f1/f2/f10 should be quite capable of living in any water conditions. Take dicus for example, I have known people who have successfully kept and bred them in regular dechlorinated tap water.

Ultimately it is up to you on what you want to do. Maybe go into the hap/peacock sections and see what they suggest. I only keep Tangs.

The easiest way to change the prefilter color would be to buy different colored sponges. I definitely would not paint them. Once the sponges have built up debris/bacteria/etc. they won't be as blue as they currently are.


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi all! 
Well I officially have MTS :thumb: Since I am very close to ordering my :fish: , I needed a place for my cyclers and a med/grow-out tank. Soooo...









48"X12"X18" all glass 45gal.  
That means building another stand 8) .
I plan on a design that will hold both this tank and the 10g.









The 180 is giving me some strange numbers on water readings :roll: 
NH3-4 = .5
NO2 = 0
NO3 = 10
??? A little ammonia but no nirite and very low nitrate?
I will be checking again shortly so we'll see.

I'll take a few more pic's of the next stand as I go along.
Later,
Dan


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi All--
Well I haven't updated in a while so here goes...

I built another stand for the 50g and the 10g..sorry no work in process pics as I built it in one weekend!









I moved the Barbs to the 50g and took the modified C-360 with old media with them.









Catching 11 Tigers in a 180 is more than a challenge!

I will add a post later about how I "modified" the C-360, I'm rather proud of it! :thumb:

Also made a mod in the 180...does anyone see it?










A closer look 8)










Now the stock list :fish: :fish: :fish:

Pseudotropheus sp. Acei 2 m / 4 f
Labidochromis Caeruleus 2m / 4 f
Aulonocara Lwanda Red Top 1m / 3f
Protomelas sp. Steveni Taiwan Reef 2m / 4f
Otopharynx Red Blaze Lithobates 2m / 4f
Nimbochromis sp. Venustus 1m / 2f

All juveniles

Well what do you think?
Long term I will probably try to turn it into an all male set-up.

I'll post the canister mod later

Dan
Well is this


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## DanDee (Mar 7, 2008)

Hi All! Time for another up-date!
I ordered my first "real" fish two weeks ago, and they arrived last Wednesday  
The list:
7 Pseudotropheus Acei 2M, 5F
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus Lions Cove 2M, 5F
3 Aulonocara Red Top Lwanda 1M, 2F
3 Aulonocara Stuartgranti Ngara Flametail Mdoka Yellow 1M, 2F
3 Protomelas Steveni Taiwan Reef 1M, 2F
6 Protomelas Taeniolatus Super Red Empress
3 Otopharynx Lithobates 1M, 2F
Not one DOA! :thumb: 
Tank shot









Oto Red Blaze male



























Well what does everyone think?
Dan


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

I know this is a little old but :thumb:


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

DanDee, if you're still around, mind sharing some more details about that stand build? How does the main door of the stand work? Does it just rest there comfortably by friction and you can remove it whenever for sump access? I love the style and I'm thinking about borrowing it for my 125g stand build.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

I think he used magnets at the top but not sure on the bottom.

He is still around, I am sure he will chime in soon to elaborate. opcorn:


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