# What do I need for my 75 gallon tank



## tsnider1 (Mar 6, 2014)

Hey everyone I am starting up a standard 75 gallon tank and I need to know what I need. I am trying to be cost effective here so I am not going all out on the equipment. I already have a filter and plan on getting a second because I have read it is better to have two. I plan on doing sand with lots of rocks to create caves. what else do I need to get this tank going so I can get some fish?


----------



## Dan L (Oct 20, 2003)

A heater is helpful.

What type of filters did you get? What kind of fish do you plan on getting?


----------



## tsnider1 (Mar 6, 2014)

The filter that came with it is a marine land looks like an old model but it works. I bought a power filter penguin 350 bio wheel from marine land 350 gallons an hour. Plan on having mbuna cichlids probably


----------



## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

Can you still return the penguin and get an Aquaclear? An Aquaclear 70, or better yet, 110, is a much better filter than any Penguin.

You need:

tank, filters, heater, glass top, stand, lights, substrate, rocks, thermometer, full test kit, food, fish, nets, water conditioner (dechlorinator), syphon hose, buckets.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Is the older filter a power filter or a canister filter? The model number would be helpful to determine if it is a suitable size for your tank.

As already noted, a heater should be needed, as well as a good thermometer, an aquarium water test kit that can test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. I prefer the liquid reagent kits by API rather than the paper test strips as the former are more accurate.

I also recommend that you read the article Fishless Cycling, the link is in my signature. It will answer the majority of your questions on the proper way to cycle your tank without using live fish. You could also use any of the bottled bacteria products that are sold in local fish stores (LFS) or online, some people have had great success using these type products.

Do you have any particular species of Mbuna cichlids in mind?


----------



## tsnider1 (Mar 6, 2014)

Thanks for the help so far I have the 350 bio filter and the old filter which is also and overhead filter a 250 watt heater and a air pump rated for 100 gallons. I have dechloranator and will be getting fish after my tank has been setup correctly. I plan to get a thermometer tomorrow.


----------



## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

tsnider1 said:


> Thanks for the help so far I have the 350 bio filter and the old filter which is also and overhead filter a 250 watt heater and a air pump rated for 100 gallons. I have dechloranator and will be getting fish after my tank has been setup correctly. I plan to get a thermometer tomorrow.


You don't get fish after your tank is setup correctly, you get fish once your tank is cycled (no ammonia, no nitrite, and a positive nitrate reading when organic matter is injected into the tank). You do this by dosing with pure ammonia (drug store, hardware store, etc) at the rate of 4 or 5ppm for a period of 2-4 weeks and testing your water frequently along the way. Or you can get some filter media from somebody that has already been cycled. No idea where you'd put it though in those filters you have. No offense. I just loathe marineland filters.


----------



## tsnider1 (Mar 6, 2014)

Sorry when I said setup I meant cycled through. Thanks for letting me know though I didn't realize you put ammonia in.


----------



## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

Get a bottle of pure ammonia, dose the first day to 4ppm (using a syringe that doses by mL) and then add the same amount of ammonia every time the ammonia level in the tank drops below 4ppm until the tank is cycled. You'll need a full test kit (ammonia,nitrite,nitrate, etc)


----------



## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Dose to 2-3 ppm for ammonia. 4 or 5 can inhibit the cycle.


----------



## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

Iggy Newcastle said:


> Dose to 2-3 ppm for ammonia. 4 or 5 can inhibit the cycle.


I was not aware of that.


----------



## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I believe the article used to say dose up to 5 and was then changed, but don't remember exactly.

This is from the article-



> If your ammonia level is too high, say 3-4ppm, that's ok. Just make a note that future doses only require half of your initial dose. So, your formula might be 2 drops for every two gallons instead of every gallon. You could always do a water change to bring the level down to 1-2ppm, but this is only necessary if you have overdosed to a level above 5ppm. A very high ammonia level will inhibit the nitrifying bacteria responsible for cycling.


----------



## dledinger (Mar 20, 2013)

IMO, one HOB such as a single Penguin 350 or single AC110 is exactly half of what you need for a 75 gallon Mbuna tank.


----------



## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

dledinger said:


> IMO, one HOB such as a single Penguin 350 or single AC110 is exactly half of what you need for a 75 gallon Mbuna tank.


I wouldn't suggest a penguin. An AC110 though, is, I agree, half of what you need on a 75 gal mbuna tank. I was running 2 AC110s and a 2217 on a 90 Gal.


----------



## jeffkro (Feb 13, 2014)

If your buying an expensive HOB wouldn't you just be better off buying a canister?


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Canister filters and power filters are the most commonly used all-in-one filters for aquariums. Some people prefer canisters while others prefer power filters and some use a combination of both. Power filters are generally a lower cost alternative and are quicker to maintain because you can remove the filter media without having to disassemble the unit as you do with a canister filter.


----------



## pablo111 (Dec 10, 2013)

jeffkro said:


> If your buying an expensive HOB wouldn't you just be better off buying a canister?


In terms of filtration capacity per dollar, yes. Aquaclear 110 runs an average of $70-80 US, while an Eheim 2217 runs about $150. The 2217 has much better biofiltration capacity than the Aquaclear. On the other hand, it won't create as much current in the aquarium as the Aquaclear, so to achieve the same level of current, a powerhead may be added, increasing the cost further. 2 AC110's will totally run a 75 Gal. You could run 2 2217's and have much higher biofiltration capacity though.


----------



## B.Roberson (Nov 6, 2011)

pablo111 said:


> jeffkro said:
> 
> 
> > If your buying an expensive HOB wouldn't you just be better off buying a canister?
> ...


 . I had ran an ac110 on my 75 for 2yrs plus with a rena xp3. 22 mbuna, 2"to .2 1/2 "ish and growing
since changed to a 2217. Sand issue. The ac110 would just slightly agitate the water surface. My 2217 with a spray bar does a huge amount better. Now I lost a little gph., But water params are still there, Crammed it full of xtra ceramic from my ac110.

On my 90. hap/peackock. I run 2 rena xp3.. excellent water agitation with 2 spray bars. and water is perfectly clear and nitrate levels are low also


----------

