# DIY canister filter?



## AfricanMike (Dec 15, 2006)

Has anyone built, or thought of building a DIY canister filter, is it possible even? It just seems like prices on filters are a little out of control.


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## cichlidfeesh (Apr 6, 2009)

I made a plan using some PVC, but when i added up the costs, including the pump, it wasnt worth it to me. *** heard of people using some kind of water filter from a hardware store though


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## bulldogg7 (Mar 3, 2003)

I've heard of people making them out of buckets, would love to see some pics. I used to use some 3" pvc with an external pump filled with floss and gravel.


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## AfricanMike (Dec 15, 2006)

Ya, i saw on bigalsonline.com you can get a Mag Drive 5 (500GPH) for $65 but wasn't sure if the remaining costs of the supplies would be worth it. It's just funny how 2yrs ago a Rena XP2 cost me around $75 or so, and now its up to $140.


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

OK, got the numbers on the pipe/fittings..with just the bare essentails 
$84.00..add in a Quiet One 1400HH at $90.00 and I come in at $174.00. 
Kick in another $20 or more for hose, fittings, yadda-yadda 
We are now at $194..quick trip through Dr.`s F&S catalog.. 
For the same or less a 405 or xp3 or 2217-37 or 3 HOT250. 
Scratch this as a project. 
Will have to find something else to reinvent a wheel about. 
Those were the $$$$ I came up with a while back, based on 4"pvc for the media tubes. The threaded end caps with adapters were really expensive. You could do it a bit cheaper, but not much.


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## RyanR (Apr 29, 2008)

DIY filtration (in sump form) really only starts to make sense with bigger tanks (above 75g), unless you already have some of this stuff laying around taking up space.

With a 125g, it's real easy for off-the-shelf filtration to cost $300-400. A nice Mag Drive pump is a pinch more than $100, so that gives you a lot of breathing room to get creative and still come out ahead. 

-Ryan


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## trackhazard (Mar 21, 2007)

Some of what would be involved in making a DIY PVC canister:

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/foru ... -step.html

Charlie


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## a_c_arnold (Mar 7, 2008)

Anyone know where to find one of the screw on pvc caps with an o-ring like those used in the DIY canister that is linked above. I keep coming up empty with my online searching.


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## padlock 08 (Jul 31, 2008)

what if you already had the pump? would all you need then be a 15" high piece 4" pvc, a straight piece for sealing to the bottom, another piece of pvc that slides inside the original which can be cut in 4, eggcrate for the basket bottoms and some kind of pvc lid for the whloe system? these could be the connectors siliconed in the lid that will attach to the hose








the inlet hose can be ordinary garden hose with this fitting








the first piece fits into the second creating a water-tight seal then just put the external pump in-line with the return hose and the jobs a goodun'.
would this system not work and if not what are the flaws? sorry for the hi-jack but i didnt see any need to start such a similar thread for this question

Edit: the return would be drilled at the bottom of the filter so the water travels down through the filter to the pump and back up to the tank


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## bulldogg7 (Mar 3, 2003)

don't use just any garden hose, there's drinking water safe or vinyl, regular hose would leach out vulcanizing chemicals if set up to recirculate


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

Like the thinking, garden hose fittings. Would use them for connecting multiple pvc tubes, pump, intake and returns. 
I wouldn`t trust them siliconed into the tubes though. Drilling the pvc and tapping holes for pipe fittings that would connect to the hose sections, would be my plan.


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## a_c_arnold (Mar 7, 2008)

There are lots of effective ways to plumb it. The only hard part that I've found with a DIY canister is coming up with a water tight lid that can be removed for maintanence.


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## sirdavidofdiscus (Dec 8, 2006)

What about making the top of the canister higher than the water level in the tank. I was thinking about using a 5' pieice of 4" pvc. Capping the bottom and runnig the overflow into the "tower". I was planning on using pot scrubbies as media, but I'm afraid they'd compress too much being stacked that high.


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## padlock 08 (Jul 31, 2008)

> Drilling the pvc and tapping holes for pipe fittings that would connect to the hose sections, would be my plan.


 how would you do this exactly? also if the drill was the sam



> The only hard part that I've found with a DIY canister is coming up with a water tight lid that can be removed for maintanence.


 but if you only had enough water flowing into the tube the say, only 3/4 fill it and were pumping the water back up from the bottom you wouldn't necessarily need a water tight lid, just any lid to stop nasties entering, in fact you could even opperate some sort of drip tray and a little air access could be of benefit


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

sirdavidofdiscus said:


> What about making the top of the canister higher than the water level in the tank. I was thinking about using a 5' pieice of 4" pvc. Capping the bottom and runnig the overflow into the "tower". I was planning on using pot scrubbies as media, but I'm afraid they'd compress too much being stacked that high.


Now, isn't that a good idea. 
Never considered a bio "tower". Could be painted, decorated so it didn`t look like what it is. 
Very cool idea. :thumb: :thumb:

Quote: 
Drilling the pvc and tapping holes for pipe fittings that would connect to the hose sections, would be my plan. 
how would you do this exactly?
Drill the appropriate sizes hole for the size tap you would use. Once you have the hole, you use the tap to cut threads into the pvc. USA would use a NPT(national pipe thread), while the rest of the world would be metric sizing. Most taps are marked with the proper drill size to use.


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## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

I use a series of whole house water filters. Initial cost was higher, but maint and continuing costs are far better. It is also superior to any filter I have owned.

I use 3 whole house water filters, 1 with carbon(I understand the controversy here, and am not looking for opinion) and 2 micron filters. Intend to add a 4th filter with just bio rings or some bio media. My water in my 75 is sparkling since I've done this. Getting the fittings just right was a bit of a pain, but it was worth it in the end.


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## sirdavidofdiscus (Dec 8, 2006)

under_control do those filter cartidges clog? It seems to me they would and have to be replaced often. When they're replaced wouldn't you lose your bascteria colony.


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## under_control (Jan 9, 2008)

I've never managed to have a bacteria problem. I only replace one at a time, and the first one in the series is the first to be replaced. No different than filters like HOBs. There is enough bacteria elsewhere in my tank to keep stable.


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## padlock 08 (Jul 31, 2008)

KaiserSousay said:


> sirdavidofdiscus said:
> 
> 
> > What about making the top of the canister higher than the water level in the tank. I was thinking about using a 5' pieice of 4" pvc. Capping the bottom and runnig the overflow into the "tower". I was planning on using pot scrubbies as media, but I'm afraid they'd compress too much being stacked that high.
> ...


thats exactly what i was thinking could be done, thanks for putting it into words :thumb: 


> Quote:
> Drilling the pvc and tapping holes for pipe fittings that would connect to the hose sections, would be my plan.
> how would you do this exactly?
> Drill the appropriate sizes hole for the size tap you would use. Once you have the hole, you use the tap to cut threads into the pvc. USA would use a NPT(national pipe thread), while the rest of the world would be metric sizing. Most taps are marked with the proper drill size to use.


so i just drill a 1" hole in the pcv and then just "screw" the tap fitting into the pvc? sory for not catching on real quick, im kinda a more hands on type person.


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

> drill a 1" hole in the pcv and then just "screw" the tap fitting into the pvc


1/8-27 ---- R
1/4-18 ---- 7/16
3/8-18 ---- 37/64
1/2-14 ---- 23/32
3/4-14 ---- 59/64
1"-11-1/2 ---- 1-5/32
First column is pipe size/threads per inch(1/8-27= 1/8 pipe with 27 threads per inch)
Second column is the size drill you need for the hole. The hole needs to be large enough to start the thread cutters, but small enough to allow full thread cutting.
From the above, you would need to drill a 1 5/32" hole to use a 1"npt tap.


> sory for not catching on real quick


No problem..happy to help..
 I am a veritable treasure trove of almost useless information.


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## bulldogg7 (Mar 3, 2003)

just don't run the tap all the way through


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

bulldogg7 said:


> just don't run the tap all the way through


Glad you brought that up..
Pipe thread is tapered..thats why they get tight with no lock nut, jam nut or additional hardware.
Thanks bulldogg :thumb:


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## padlock 08 (Jul 31, 2008)

:thumb: thanks! I don't know what i'd do without this website and all its contributing members, i'd be a lot more out of pocket than i am now anyway :lol: so, just to get this right, i get a threaded drill bit that 1+5/32" and then thread my 1" tap fitting through but not all the way so as to prevent it jamming, right? then would it be necessary to silicone around the completed fitting for that extra bit of security or is that overkill?

Thanks, Paul


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

> drill bit that 1+5/32" and then thread my 1" tap fitting through but not all the way


You got it.
I use teflon tape on the male threads to seal the connection.
When using the tap, you run it into the material and then back it up, run in some more, back it up. Back it all the way out and give it a trial fit. 
Use a piece of scrap to practice on. 
Keep the tap square(90deg.) to the material.


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## padlock 08 (Jul 31, 2008)

ok, thanks for the help  :wink: i think i'll try it out and see how it goes

Cheers, Paul


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