# Upgrading to new tank, looking for advice on filter.



## markneff773 (Dec 15, 2014)

Hello,
I've had a 75 gallon aquarium for years with a Fluval 306 (or older equivalent, I don't remember exact model). I'm purchasing a 125 gallon tank to replace the 75 with and was wondering about the filters, should I just keep using the fluval and add a second one to it to handle the additional load or would I be better off just purchasing a new a filter that can handle 125 gallons? 
If so, are there other filters people recommend, the Fluval G6 looks awesome, but man is that pricey. Thanks in advance.


----------



## LeeAberdeen (Sep 4, 2014)

You could try a Fluval FX6. Just got one for my 140g and would highly recommend. It'll give you the overfiltering which I always like, because it does about 3,500 litres an hour, so you'll have a great turnover on your tank. They're quiet too, with just a faint noise which blends into the background. Mine's in the front room and I don't notice it at all. They're very solidly made, have loads of filter capacity and aren't too pricey for what they do. I think you'd struggle to find anything better.


----------



## RobsFishTank (Nov 11, 2014)

I am a huge fan of having multiple filters in case one fails. I am setting up a 120 gal and will have two canister filters on it. Both slightly undersized, but each on it's own should hold me over in case of a failure. I will also have at least one sponge filter, probably power head driven but might go with air if my old air pump still works.


----------



## jalz1222 (Apr 4, 2014)

I have a 125gallon 40 peacock/hap I am runing two aquaclear 110 and one fx6.
1000 grams ceramic rings in each of the ACs plus the sponges and polishing pads, and I have 2000 grams/2L seachem matrix and sponges in the FX6. I change water once a week, 35 gallons to be exact. Fish are healthy and beautiful 
Feed your fish new life spectrum, I started using it 2 months ago and noticed a big difference in colors and health.


----------



## markneff773 (Dec 15, 2014)

Thanks for the advice. Now how about Heaters? I had no idea that I wouldn't be able to find a single heater to handle 125. What do you guys recommend?


----------



## chopsteeks (Jul 23, 2013)

A big fan of wet 'dry filtration. Look into Eshopps WD-150cs + an AC110. For pumps, will look at 800-1000 gph.

Why I like Wet 'dry filtration ----- Ease of maintenance vs the big canisters such as FX6...


----------



## BDASTRK (Dec 12, 2014)

chopsteeks said:


> A big fan of wet 'dry filtration. Look into Eshopps WD-150cs + an AC110. For pumps, will look at 800-1000 gph.
> 
> Why I like Wet 'dry filtration ----- Ease of maintenance vs the big canisters such as FX6...


X1 they cant be beat!


----------



## markneff773 (Dec 15, 2014)

X1?


----------



## Fishpapa (Dec 2, 2014)

I'm not impressed with the FX6. It's essentially a big sponge filter. I agree that redundancy is the way to go. Everything eventually fails, and having two or three filters keeps your tank going and your fish alive. I have a 90 gallon peacock/hap tank, and run 2 Sunsun 404b filters. They have been very reliable,and are extremely cheap especially when compared to one FX6. The amount of room for media is fabulous. In addition, I run a Fluval C4. This permits me to use Purigen bags, and be able to change them easily. Plus I can move the C4 to a hospital tank if necessary. There is no virtue in paying a lot for good filtration. The most important part of using a canister filter is to set it up properly. Coarse filter material in the bottom, medium next, and then fine pad. Above that is your biomedia (Matrix and Biohome being the best IMHO). Don't go cheap on biomedia. Bioballs and smooth ceramic rings, which are often included with your canister, are worthless. They provide no adhesive surfaces for nitrifying bacteria. Bacteria do best when they can lock onto a rough surface. Only mechanically filtered water should be touching your biomedia. Do not put a filter pad on the top of the canister. That just locks in any stray particles that your mechanical filtration has missed, and creates a cap that will permit detritus eventually to clog your biomedia. Stray particles should be expelled back into the tank and captured the next time they pass through your filter. I also use sponge pre-filters. These block the worst of the detritus, permit me to clean them at each weekly water change, extend the time between canister cleanings, and provide yet another location for the growth of nitrifying bacteria. All of this is simple and logical when you think about it.


----------

