# 2 sides glass plywood tank 519 gallons 96x48x26



## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I started framing the stand yesterday and was hoping to get the rough build finished today but had to rip out carpet, padding, and staples to get a new floor installed tomorrow. When I finally got a chance to start again my wife took my oldest daughter to the hair salon and left me with the baby.

I am using the panel method for the actual tank. Instead of the 2x4 with 1/2" ply for the side panels. I am using 2x8 shaved to 7 inches with 3/4" ply. This way I can holesaw two inch holes for the overflow system and keep it all hidden by a stained exterior sheathing. I am going to use fiberglass and marine epoxy to seal the panels. The water volume of the tank is going to be 519 gallons (96x48x26). The exterior dimensions of the tank are going to be 111.5x54x32.5 (almost the same as the stand) This will allow for about 3 inches from the water line to the top of the tank. I was stressing about whether or not to go over 24 inches deep, but I wanted to at least say that I have a 500 gallon tank.

Stand 111.5x54x32

32- 2x6x10 
10- 2x8x10 
1- 1/2" 4x8 
5 lbs- 3 inch deck screws 
5 lbs- 4 inch deck screws 
5 lbs- 2.5 inch deck screws 
32- 3/8" 8" zinc bolts 
1 case - large tubes of liquid nails.


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## mcmahon (Sep 18, 2007)

that sounds awesome. what are you planning on stocking it with?


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## mcmahon (Sep 18, 2007)

and throw on some pics


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

The first things into the tank are all of the demasoni fry I keep finding. I am also gonna toss in some clams for sifting, and about 50 crayfish. Then I am gonna put in some Moba Fronts, a largemouth bass, a channel cat, sunfish, and yellow perch. I am replacing my 2x 240 tanks with one large tank. I will be selling the tanks on Craigslist once the 519 is up and running.

Sorry - If you get mad about the demasoni living with the preds but my LFS will only take so many in trade, so it is either the freezer then the garden or life on the run. You never know they just may make it.

Sorry - I am mixing fish from different continents and different genus but they are large predators that only eat smaller fish and show con-specific aggression. I have never seen my Frontosa, Bass, or Perch chase a different species. These guys like to relax, unless it is feeding time.

I'll post some pics when I get the stand completed.


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## mcmahon (Sep 18, 2007)

sounds like fun
hhow much are you selling the tanks for?


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I am planning on having 8x 1.25-1.5" ID drains in the tank. 4 of the drains will be setup for surface skimming and the other 4 will be setup about 3 inches above the substrate. Every pipe diameter is ID.

The drains will be tied one high and one low that feed into a 4-way. Will 1.5" be sufficient or should I use 2" when T'ing the two 1.25-1.5 drains. I think that keeping the same diameter piping won't matter because total flow will be provided by two quiet one 9000s that flow around 2328GPH less the head and bends. Even at the max 4656GPH; 4x 1.5" pipes should provide plenty of area to move that much water.

http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevo ... tions.html

I plan on using the above link for the surface skimming portion of the overflow and will use a couple street 90s to pipe the low flow drains to the same level as the surface skimmer.

The only modification that I am going to make to the above link is using a router to cut a long channel on each side instead of using a drill and multiple holes.

Does anyone see any flaws in this system... I am open to suggestions.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

This is what I have done so far. The stand and the tank are going to be modular. I built all of the panels squared and plumbed everything then then glued and screwed a bunch of stuff. To assemble the panels I lap jointed the front and back with this sides using 5" lag bolts and 3" bolts with nuts. I also used 8" bolts to secure the sides to the fronts. I paneled out the sides a little more and used 2.5" bolts. If I ever need to break it down I can use an impact wrench or auger motor to back the bolts out. Once the bolts are backed out I should be able to use a bottle jack to pop the front and back from the sides.










I have 3x 20x26" openings on the front and back. This will allow me to put in 3x 19x36" Sumps and tie those together with 2 inch PVC.










I used 2x8 for the sides trimmed to 7" so I can drill 2-2.5" holes for the plumbing. This way I can keep the plumbing hidden in the sides. I also framed the inside which adds support for a beam and will also support the 2x8' floor panels from the panel tank. I had to change the tank specs for the floor to 2x 2x8' instead of 1x 4x8 because I cannot get a 4x8 sheet, with the joists attached, down into my basement.










I have a 5.5x5.5" beam with 1/2" plywood inbetween boards. I still have to assemble the supports for the middle two portions of the beam. This middle beam will support the middle portion of the 2x8' panels for the tank floor. After the framing of the floor panels I will have a span that can easily be supported by doubled 2x3" spaced every 10".

If you are a little confused by the layout and how the floor will tie into the sides and be supported by the stand, all you need to do is wait for me to get the panels assembled, fiberglassed, and the glass installed and I will show pictures of how the whole thing is supported and how I am deflecting the weight.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I finished the front, back, and side panels today. I also started on the two floor panels. Those should be finished tomorrow. Once I get the floor built I'll lay it out and post some pics of it. I should be able to get the fiberglass and epoxy tomorrow, as well, but will not be able to start the fiberglass until this weekend. I will not do the final bolt assembly of the panels until the fiberglass/epoxy has cured but will pick up the

I increased the outer tank dimensions from 111.5x54x32.5 to 111.5x54x34. This allows me a little extra overhead in case I want to run a 2" bulkhead for the suface skimmer.

I may change the sump layout to 2 72x16" sumps, I am going to build them out of plywood since it is so easy to work with. The only problem with making 2 long sumps instead of 3 short ones is that I will have to set the sumps in the stand before the tank is put on top and will not be able to get them out once the tank is filled with water.

I am going to try a refugium with java moss, and keep it separate from the pump house with some egg crate foam. I saw the TheFishGuy's sump for his 240 and thought of a way to work it into my sump idea. I will still use Bio balls but those will be in the trickle portion of the sump . I am also going to float hyacinths or water lettuce on half of the tank surface. Some people say that refugiums really don't work with fresh water but the tanks that I have heavily stocked and also have java moss in, have much lower nitrates when I do water changes. I figure that a dedicated space for growing something should have some benefits. I will have two different refugiums, one per sump, and a 75 HQI bulb for each that will run when the tank lights are off.

I am going to run three timers. One for the lights over the floating plants, that will also power the lights for the refugium. The other two will turn on over the space of an hour so the tank will light gradually.


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

You should have taken the 4x8 sheet into the basement first and then attached the joists. Hopefully no problems arise from the 2 piece floor.

As far as the sumps you have got to be able to easily perform maintenance or you'll find yourself performing less and less maintenance on them.

Also if you were to build the sumps fixed inside the stand as not to be removed you can build 1 single big one instead of 2. It doesn't need to just be 16" wide. From the pictures it looks like your stand doesn't have a floor. So you can set the sump in the final position then lift the stand over the sump. Then put the tank on top of the stand. You could then have a 72"Lx36"Wx18"H which could potentially hold 200 gallons of water before it overflowed onto the floor and you would have plenty of room to be able to maintain it. Then you could have internal compartments for the refugium and whatever else you wanted to put in it. But that is just a size you could have. It doesn't need to be to those specs.

With the sump being 18" high you would have 12" of clearance that you could reach inside as to perform said maintenance. Having one giant sump would save you from having to link the sumps together.

It ultimately comes down to you and what you want to do.

Also, are you going to be using any form of auto water changer? Did you buy those pumps already?


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

The two piece floor won't be a problem, each piece is supported all the way around and gets bolted together and also to the front and sides. When I fiberglass I will be able to glass the surface and sides of all panels so there will not be any wood on wood contact between panels. When I assemble the panels they will get a bead of silicone as a stop in case the slicone in the tank fails. I also made the whole setup to be modular so after undoing 105 3/8" bolts I will be able to tear it down and move it. I didn't want to spend all this time building something that will have to be destroyed when I eventually move. Otherwise I would have just used doubled 3/4" ply fiberglassed inside and out.

I have a HI-S/RO-DI that fills a 32 gallon container that I use for changes for my SW tanks. I normally just bucket topoff the FW tanks out of the 32 gallon. I have been thinking about setting up a single solenoid, low flow constant pressure pump, two electrical floats, a mechanical float, with a relay and battery back up. Having the tank in the basement opens up a bunch of possibilities for plumbing since I have access to all of the pipes and can add more as needed.

I thought about one large sump but I will have 2 5.5x5.5" posts that support the center beam. They are between the door openings and cuts the layout into three side-by-side areas that will be accessible from either side. I have 32 inches of interior height but I have to be able to jockey everything through one of the 20x26 inch openings.


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

I know how you are building the tank. I supplied the link that you adapted your design from.

That stand really doesn't even need that center cross beam. That stand is solid. Plus the bottom joists of the tank itself will be resting on the outside ring of the stand. The only way the cross beams would even do anything is if they went front to back.

519 gallons of water is 4323.37lbs you won't be able to budge that setup. So you don't have to worry about side flex in the stand or the need to support that cross brace from the bottom.

I just don't see the need for it anyway. But if you want to do it for peace of mind then go ahead.

How do you have 32 inches of interior height? I can see 30" tops. The 26" door opening and then 4" from the doubled up 2x's but then you couldn't get access to the sumps. Hence why I said make the sump 18" tall so you would have 12" above the sump to access it.

Did you buy those quiet one 9000 pumps yet?


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Oh yeah, you did supply the link, thanks again.

The doubled 2x6s are 6 inches and then I have 26 inches of vertical 2x6. Once I slide something in, it will rest on the floor. The low spot for the beam goes below the top plate about 2.5 inches so in that area I have only 26.5 inches but that will still fit with my specs, as long as I keep total height low.

The center crossbeam holds the 2 floor panels. If I were to span the entire length with a single panel then I wouldn't need the beam. Since the open span that the joists have to run is 19 inches I am using 2x4 ripped to 3 inches, doubled with 3/4" ply for rigidity. The joists are about 10" OC. I know that I can support the floor with less but I want to stop any eventual sagging from having a sustained weight on the floor.

I didn't get the pumps yet, still figuring on how much total flow I should have. I like 10x turn over for my tanks but 5k GPH is alot of flow. I like two pumps powering two spray bars but am open to any suggestions.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I got the the floor assembled this afternoon and picked up some West System 105, 205 and fiberglass.









This is the outside of the side panel. This is where all of the plumbing will get stuffed on ends.









This is the inside, just basic wood.









The floor panels have been completed. The top is basic 3/4 ply, the bottom has doubled 2x4 (cut to 3") with 3/4 ply inbetween.









Top image of the floor as it will lay in the tank.









The side panels lined up with the floor panels.









The whole thing temporarily clamped into place. I still have to build the L-Channels to mount the glass.

I should be able to start the fiberglass this weekend. I will do the entire front and back of the glass panels, the inside and sides of the side panel, and the top and all the sides of the floor panels. I don't know if I should put a rought fit on the stand and drill the holes for the bolts, then disassemble it and finally fiberglass it, or just glass it and assemble it; I am still debating which order to start with.


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## tropheus duboisi breeder (Jan 31, 2007)

looks like a tank :lol: nice job so far.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I ordered the glass today. It will be here next Friday. I ordered 2 pieces of 94.25x25.875x.5 tempered glass with the edges polished (not really cheap, even though I shopped for the best price). I'll get the panels fiberglassed tomorrow, and mount the glass next weekend. During the week I am going to paint the interior of the stand, inside of the side panels and fit the plumbing. I will be using rustoleam outdoor paint because all I really need to control is humidity on the wood in those areas. I also need to make the sumps and seal them. For that I will have to order my bulkheads.

I still have to get some self-leveling floor epoxy to level out the 111.5x54" pad that I will set the tank on.

I figure about 3 more weeks before I will be able to do a water test.


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

How are you going to connect the sumps together? If you make them removable the easiest way would just be to use clear tubing. If you go the fixed route then you could just use pvc/bulkheads.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Clear tubing would be good but If I go with over 2" diameter I will have to start looking at coldwater supply lines for industrial drinking applications. I do have a PVC setup in mind, but am also designing a flexible tube layout as well.

I am looking at compression connectors for 3 or 4 inch PVC. The Bulkeads are going to be threaded inside and slip outside. This way I can screw in a teflon taped plug if I ever have to disconnect one of the sumps. The two outside sumps will be tied directly together and they will both have a connection to the pumphouse sump.

The filters and heaters will be on the end sumps. The middle sump will have the refugium with java moss, and also the return pumps. I am trying to have everything modular for ease of disassembly for emergency repair and also provide redundant operation. I am also going to run two more 20 amp GFI runs from my transfer panel so I can get automatic power switchover in case of a power failure.


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

Instead of going with one giant pipe you could go several 2" pieces of pvc to get adequate flow to the center sump where the pumps are. Then you could use unions and ball valves for disconnection. Cracking open a 4" union would be a PITA. Also disconnecting the bulkheads how you are talking about sounds like it might be a PITA too.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Any way you look at it, undercabinet plumbing is a PITA.

I wasn't thinking of unions but compression couplers. Unions are usually used with high pressure liquid and even gas movement. A drain is a low pressure, coldwater, application so compression couplers will work just fine. I know that with the 2" and smaller couplers I can cut the coupler in half and use it as a spigot connecter but I have not found anything out about the larger sizes.

With the compression coupler I can use street 90s and T's to mount my bulkheads at the end of the sumps. I should be able to undo the coupling on one end of the sump then pull the sump out of the other side. It should be as simple as screwing in a plug inside the other two sumps (I might use cutoffs), undoing the compression fitting, then removing the sump.

With cutoffs it would be turn two levers undo one nut, then remove the sump.

http://www.arncocorp.com/Product.aspx?PAGE_ID=244


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I started the fiberglass this weekend. If you have never done fiberglass (myself included), it is best to use some scrap pieces and practice at the temps you are using. I am using West System 105 resin and 205 fast hardner. I haven't even started the glass panels yet because there are quite a few angles and corners that I have to work with, more practice will be need on the flat panels until I can start the glass panels.

The first piece took the longest but as I got to the last piece I was getting better with the application and using the squeege to use the minimal amount of epoxy. I am going to use 5 coats, two with matte, and three without.

The first coat was clear, west system recommends not adding any pigment until later coats. I bought some blue pigment and will apply the second layer of matte and one of the follow on coats with the blue pigment. Just the sides will get the pigment. I will leave the floor plain because it will be covered with a mix of sand and aragonite. The final two coats will be clear epoxy.

I was hoping to be farther along but we have 40+ nights over the next week so I have to double the cure time for every 15 degree drop in temp from the 72 degree standard. I get a little more work time since the days are at 50 right now, so I can work the glass and resin to the thickness that I need.

Before I apply the second coat in about an hour, I had to do a little prep work. I washed the epoxied surfaces with a damp cloth to remove any of the amine blush that has built up on the surface, then I sanded the top and sides of each panel first with 60 grit to knock down any of my sloppiness and then with 80 grit so the new layer will have something to bite into. After that I ran another wet rag over the top to get rid of any dust.

I also went out and bought 2 more gallons of resin and 2 more quarts of hardner. I don't want to run out in the middle of a panel. I will return any unopen containers when I am done.

I have been using a 3M organic respirator with cartrigdes. The smell isn't bad but the package says toxic, so an organic respirator is a necessity. I was toying with the idea of using my M40 gas mask but didn't want to crack open the seal on the filter cartridge.


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

Right on. Post some pictures!


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## fishboy11 (Jul 13, 2005)

That tank is coming along nicely. It should look real nice when finished. I have built 2 DIY 180g's with my dad, here is the "show" one, which we spent alot of time on, making it look nice!


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## illy-d (Nov 6, 2005)

I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread now that I've found it!

Do you know, or will you total up the $$ spent on materials for this project? (not counting the glass).


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

So far I have spent about 650 in wood and screws (Deck screws are expensive), 125 for the 3/8s bolts/washers/nuts, 700 in glass, 50 in liquid nails, 550 in epoxy and fiberglass and fiberflass applications stuff(not sure how much I will need and will return excess unopened containers).

I still need 8 pieces of glass for the top, 8 ballasts, 16 light bulbs, a couple switches, 2x 20 AMP GFI plugs, 12AWG 2 conductor cable, The exhaust fan and ducting from the stand to the room with the heat exchanger and dehumidifier, 2x ~2500 GPH pumps, the sump system, and plumbing. I also need the the lights for the refugium.

I am going to make a 4x8 hood and am trying to find some 48" drawer type sliders. This way I can slide the hood 2 feet in front or back so I can get into the top from either side.

These are the tools that I have used so far -

10" table saw with a 90 tooth blade
12" miter saw with a 80 tooth thin kerf saw blade
7.25" circular saw with 60 tooth finish blade
jig saw
random orbit sander
belt sander
2 battery operated drill motors
1 corded drill motor (I can drill pilots and then screw without having to change bits)
4x 12" clamps
2x 36" clamps
12" hammer
2.5 lbs hand sledge
4x 10 ton bottle jacks (I found another use for them other than jacking up a shed and deck)
1x 9/16 open ended wrench
2x 9/16 socket wrenches
.5" Wood chisel
1" wood chisel
1.25" Forstner bit
Hand plane

I used alot of different tools but found that things go smoother with the right tools. I didn't buy a single tool for the build. I have collected these with all of the different things I have done around my house.

If you want to take the time and shop for better deals you can certainly cut down on the costs. If you are patient then most of the screws, fastners, glue, epoxy, fiberglass can be found alot cheaper online.

I did spend alot of time at 84 lumber, home depot, and lowes looking for wood that was straight and didn't have knots in key structural areas.


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

Which ballasts are you going to run? IceCap 660? If not you should. They can run up to 16' of bulb length per ballast and you can run T5, T8,T12, or PC.

Also, are you going to be running 16 bulbs at all times? If so, that is A LOT of light.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Multiple ballasts for different switching combinations. Inside, outside, every other, all or any combination in between. Some will be on three timers that turn on at different times. The other ones will be on for me to flip a switch and supply power to all 16 bulbs at one time or a different combination of lights. I like the master light switch for maintenance purposes. I will be using a combination of three/four way (multiway) digital switches from leviton and a relay panel.

I am thinking that the lights over the floating plants will all be on(during my 12 hour light cycle) so I may be able to use more powerful ballasts for those two sets of 4 bulbs.


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## cugar (Jan 5, 2003)

nice!!!


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

no glass today. It is supposed to come next week. I will be on business for the next week so there will not be any progress until at least two Mondays from now.

I did move my 125 out of the way so I can, cut the carpet, lay the floor paper, and lay the frame to pour the self leveling floor compound. At least I will be able to get that done before I leave.


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## JJU (May 19, 2007)

I was hoping to be farther along but we have 40+ nights over the next week so I have to double the cure time for every 15 degree drop in temp from the 72 degree standard. I get a little more work time since the days are at 50 right now, so I can work the glass and resin to the thickness that I need.

I just want to let you know you can increase the percentage to 3.2% known as a "Hot Coat" 2% catalyst is normal. You have to do it by weight though and guessing you don't have a scale. 452 grams in a pound. (close enough people). This would be for cold temps below 50 degree. In he winter the fiberglass industry uses a different catalyst then the warmer days. Your catalyst probably contains filler materials w/ non essentials in it. Basically your catalyst should come as Methyl, Ethyl,Ketone, and the reactor is Peroxide when added to the 3 ingredients. When I say reactor it's the peroxide with the 3 others that make a complete catalyst when added to the resin. If you put M, E, K and mixed it in the resin you would not get a cure. You can always cure a wet resin with a hot coat.

Hot coats are used in the surf board industry where I worked for 6 years


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Didn't get back from my business trip until late Saturday. I only got the first layer of fiberglass done on the glass panels. I think I should be able to get the second coat on tomorrow, then follow up with 3 more coats of pigmented west system the next day. I am going to do a final 3 coats of sweetwater of sweetwater black epoxy.

The glass arrived when I was gone. I did a sample fit today, the glass will fit nice and square in the panel. I am concentrating all efforts on the glass panels so I can set the glass and silicone it in place, then do the final coats on the other panels. I am going to use blue painters tape to make the silicone seams as straight as can be. I will probably be able to set the glass next week.

I also painted the interior of the stand with 1 coat of rustoleam primer and 2 coats of flat white. I want the stand to be bright so I don't have any visual problems when working in there.

I think I have the start of a stocking list now.

7x Burundi Frontosa
1x Red Oscar
2x JD
1x Stunted growth flowerhown (I got him for free at about 7" and he has been 7" for the last 8 months)
4x pumpkinseed sunfish
2x Yellow Perch
1x LMB - I have to find a new one, since I don't want to take one of the big ones out of my pond or catch a larger one for the tank. Initially the LMB will go into a 55 gallon grow out until it hits 7 or so inches.
3x Channel cats (will change out channel cats at 14" and will always have at least 1 or 2 in there)

The LFS took all of my remaining Dem fry so those will not be in the tank now... lucky for them.

I did a trial run with the Fronts, sunfish, and Oscar in my 240 and the O is not bothering them at all. The Fronts really don't care if he is in there and go about trying to dominate eachother. Feeding isn't a problem, the all seem to get their share. The sunfish are bold enough to try and take food out of the O and Front mouths, but settle for the smaller food.

I am still looking for some additional tankmates for these guys. 
I am looking at the venustus, Livingstonii, or dimidiochromis, but am open for any suggestions.


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## BigJagLover (Oct 25, 2006)

Shoot I don't know you could try Red bay snooks, 20" for males max 12" females average. They are fairly peacefull, kinda like what you got going on now with the only mess with you own kind thing. But you got a stock list that may rise some eye brows, Mine included. :lol: I think if they all get along and no one is stressed due to aggrestion, water chemisty, and they breed then more power to ya and good luck. :thumb:


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Any pictures of adult Red Bay Snooks. All I can find are juvenile photos or photos of the fish out of water.

Also where would you get one. The green bay snook looks nice as well.


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## BigJagLover (Oct 25, 2006)

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/s ... hp?id=2328

Here's some adult pics. and you can get them at petsmart down here, VA. but try Jeff Rapps @ tangledupincichlids.com site might not be exactlly right by it's there trust me. if you can't get it like I typed it go to aquamojo.com and go to links. he's got a link.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Those are pretty nice, semi-large predators and large dithers is kinda how I want to keep the tank. I am not really looking for breeding. I don't want to have to trap or catch any fry or holding mothers/fathers and just want to display the fish.

I am looking at the dimidiochromis because some sites and others on the forums have said that they are good at catching fry. I may also try to get all males. I will lose quite a few of the Burundi if I go with an all Male tank, and will end up trading those in to the LFS.

I have also been looking at the ButtiKoferi and PBass. The PBass seems like it may be too big for a 96x48 foot print.

Any breeding that is done will be in one of my 125s or 55s.


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## BigJagLover (Oct 25, 2006)

NO butti's. I know the allure to them will be greater now. But they are big killers. 96" x48" would become very small really quickly I think. The large mouth bass , fronts, and any others w/ this attitude, eat first fight as alast resort woukld die. I would not do it.

Comp's would be good though. If you like the west african thing,butti's, look at polleni's their black and white spoted you could get them from jeff rapps as well.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/s ... hp?id=1439 profile of polleni.

Good luck.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

Yeah, it appears that pretty much all buttis are killers. The polleni looks decent. I will keep my eye on those as well.

Thanks.


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## BigJagLover (Oct 25, 2006)

No problem


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

I agree butti's can be very aggresive killers. But I have seen one succesfully kept in a 125 with small africans, and a very weird unethical mix succesfully. It would only kill fish that became large and thought of as a threat. Not saying I would add one, just thought I'd mention it. I would not if it were mine.

The D. Comps would be great, buy a few and weed out the females as the males turn a really nice blue sheen. The gold and albino's are nice also. I would try maybe 3 of these, each in a different color. They will definately rid the tank of fry. It's cool to see the way they hunt.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

The golds are awesome looking but it may fit into the LMBs mouth when it gets to 12". I'll keep the LMB until it gets to about 16 inches then get another one, and release the bigger LMB into my pond.

I was planning on getting a couple of the D Comps to get some good males, then trade the rest into the LFS.

My 2x JDs are a mated pair and I am hoping that they will not upset the tank too much since they will be the smallest fish in there and I have a fairly large footprint. They will be the only breeders in the tank and hopefully all of their fry will make it into the gullets of one of the larger fish. Otherwise I will end up with a JD explosion and will get stuck pulling rocks to get the juvies out.


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## BigJagLover (Oct 25, 2006)

I think you will have no problem with the JD exsplosion as every fish in your tank is a fissh eatter. So even if they live a year they will only be 6". By then the bass will be 12" and the JD's still fit in his mouth. Just my thought.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I am going to be setting the glass in a couple hours. Should I sand the epoxy to give more bite to the silicone, or does the silicone stick just fine to the epoxy?


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

I never got a chance to set the glass. I am completely finished with the epoxy and fiberglass on all of the panels. Stupid work keeps getting in the way of finishing this thing. I have another business trip and will not be able to get anything done for the next week or so.

I also ordered my bulkheads. I bought 10x 1.5" heavy duty black, 8x 1.5" heavy duty screens and 2x 2" heavy duty white for the sumps. 2 of the bulkheads will be used for my returns. 4 of them will be used for underwater drainage, and 4 of them will be used for surface skimming. I am going to use 2x quiet one 14000, 270 watt pumps. I am expecting about 5300GPH total flow.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

It is full of water and not leaking. Been filled now for about day. I am gonna let it sit for a couple days, then fill the sump and start the filters.


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## tunerX (Oct 25, 2006)

One year and three days. Still no problems. two plywood section of the sump for something a little more maintenance friendly.


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## blueinfinity (Jul 17, 2003)

very very nice. i lvoe he concept.w hat was the total cost? also any more finished pics?


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## OhioCichlids (Feb 19, 2005)

how about some updated pics


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## twinkie moe and charlie (Jan 19, 2005)

Well done! :thumb:


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