# Resealing my 125 need your help. Pics included



## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

I got this tank in a package deal and it needs to be resealed. The pictures show that the glass has separated on one side. Do I put a clamp on it tight enough to join the top fake wood frame and run my bead as usual or do I need to make sure that some silicone enters that cavity? I removed the silicone from the separated glass down as far as I could between the two pieces but I felt that if I went any further I would surely break the longer piece of glass which is the entire back of the tank. I thought I would use wratchet straps to hold it tightly in place when I sealed it (I am using the ge 100% silicone, clear, window, door, attic and basement. Batch 11A067). Anyone have any experienced opinions that they could share? I would like to get this thing finished and out of my garage thanks.

Here you can see where the glass has separated. Silicone removed because the end was separated when I got it and I was told to remove as much silicone as I could. Is this not true?










I used the paint stir for visual effect, it is not going to be staying there.










Inside of the tank, same corner










Any help you can send my way is greatly appreciated.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

I found this site and the product is reasonably priced. The think is it is the exact same product as this only in a different package. http://www.technologylk.com/product_vie ... m_Silicone


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## CITADELGRAD87 (Mar 26, 2003)

I have read about 60% of the sticky thread on GE. I think the consensus, for what it is worth, is that any true 100% Silicon is aquarium safe, and that GE has started relabeling whatever they USED to note as aquarium safe for sale at LFS. They still make the same stuff, but my guess is the agreement requires them to no longer label anything as aquarium safe, or even tell anyone that it's safe.

I also understand, from the reading and NOT from experience, that there is a GE 100% silicone on the market that will work. Unfortunately for you, I think the window and door type has a fungicide in it.

There is some discussion abuot what type or types are safe, even some discussion that GE started to add the fungicide to the kitchen and bath. One guy found 100% GE in the glass aisle, I can confirm that SOuCal Home Depots carry this, too, but I have done nothing to determine if it is indeed safe.

Particularly if I was going to the trouble of fixing a large tank, I would review thtat sticky thread. I honesly would tell you if I knew, but I do not. Please be careful.


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## sik-lid (Sep 6, 2011)

Hey thanks a bunch for the reply it truly has been a headache. I am going to just order the aquarium stuff and pay the extortion rate. The fish that are going into the tank are worth the peace of mind. I will let it cure for 2 weeks then fill it.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

You are going to have to take that tank apart and reseal all of it. The silicone that goes in between the glass panes is the silicone that helps it stay together and it is very important that there is a strong bond. I would suspect that if the tank split open there, that it is only a matter of time before other seams start coming apart too. If I were you, I would re-do the whole thing but it may not be worth the effort if you don't have the tools or resources to do it.


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## inurocker (May 9, 2011)

Yes total tear down


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

A total tear down is the way to go. I also would not use that silicone you linked to as it seems rather weak (a tank over 30 gallons does not need a support frame). What you want to use is GE 1200 series which is much stronger than the GE Silicone I, although many have used Silicone I. It is available through construction supply stores as it is made for use by trades. You will not find it at HD or stores of that type.
As far as GE I goes unless they have changed it the "Windows and Doors" does not have midewcide. My last tube of kitchen and Bath GE had mildewcide mentioned in the first line of the product description.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

BillD said:


> A total tear down is the way to go. I also would not use that silicone you linked to as it seems rather weak (a tank over 30 gallons does not need a support frame).


You mean, a tank over 30 gallons DOES need a support frame...


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

mightyevil said:


> BillD said:
> 
> 
> > A total tear down is the way to go. I also would not use that silicone you linked to as it seems rather weak (a tank over 30 gallons does not need a support frame).
> ...


Support frames are never necessary. They do nothing for the structural integrity of the tank, all they do is keep the tank off the ground so the pressure isn't pushing up against the glass; they also help keep things at a reasonable height above the tank and the center brace on them keeps the tank from bowing.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

The King Crabb said:


> mightyevil said:
> 
> 
> > BillD said:
> ...


 :roll: I thought that by support frame he meant the top frame because it "supports" the silicone... :lol:

Now I see that support meant holding the tank...


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

In the link, the product description says it is basically fine up to a 30 gallon tank. Beyond that it needs an external support frame. I take this to mean a frame to contain all the joints.
The trim on most commercial tanks is there t partly to prevent a point load (such as a piece of gravel on a surface the tank is sitting on) causing a fracture of the bottom. A tank that is sitting with the bottom on a flat surface where the bottom is totally supported is stronger than one where the glass is raised ad has to carry the weight. Of course, the surface needs to be flat, or an absorbtive material such as styrofoam needs to be placed beneath the bottom. This is the way large custom tanks are built. A totally supported bottom is less likely to fracture than a suspended one, even from a point load inside the tank.


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## Valous (Jan 30, 2011)

Agree with a total reseal, and that silicone will do fine. I used that to reseal my 6' 220 tank and its been up almost 2 years with no problem. Best advice I can give you is take your time and clean all the silicone off with many razorblades. As far as needing the right tools to do a reseal job. all you will need is the frames and a couple helping hands.


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## PChap (Mar 6, 2007)

I did it one time a long time ago and it wasn't near as bad as I thought. Definitely take the time and be patient and do a total rebuild.


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## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

Valous said:


> Agree with a total reseal, and that silicone will do fine. I used that to reseal my 6' 220 tank and its been up almost 2 years with no problem. Best advice I can give you is take your time and clean all the silicone off with many razorblades. As far as needing the right tools to do a reseal job. all you will need is the frames and a couple helping hands.


This is good advice. I also resealed a 220g with GE silicone I and it has been fine for 2 yrs now. Easier than you think, just be sure to take extra precautions to not scratch the glass.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

People, we are not talking about a reseal here, but a re-build. Any strength of silicone can be used for a reseal. For a large tank rebuild, I would look for the stronger GE 1200 series silicone.


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