# Bright Green algae - Will a UV Sterilizer help?



## airedale (May 7, 2007)

I have a 90 gallon tank with 2 10K lights and 2 Actinic lights. I limit the amount of time the lights are on to about 8 hours a day.

The algae in the tank is getting crazy. It is a bright green on the rocks and side of the tank. It doesn't look like it is hairy, though the fish could be eating the hairy strands.

I have tried the chemical route and it doesn't really seem to help. I did clean the tank before I used it, but the little that was left hasn't really died off.

I have read that UV sterilizers can help with algae. I am looking at this one: http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/245261/product.web

Anyone have any good experiences with these things and algae?


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## cjacob316 (Dec 4, 2008)

the only time i have seen a uv really work for algae is with green water where the algae passes through the filter itself, if it's on your decor and glass all you can do is maybe reduce the length of the lighting a bit (that is a lot of light for a 90 gallon btw, not saying too much, just saying a lot) test your nitrates because this is food for algae, try to keep them below 20ppm (roughly).
also maybe invest in a pleco they will eat a lot of algae

also do you have a magnetic algea scraper? it makes cleaning the glass soooo easy


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## mithesaint (Oct 31, 2006)

What's the total wattage of the lights? It seems excessive from the info that you've given so far. Simply cutting the amount of light in half would probably solve the algae problem and save you on the electric bill as well. Generally speaking, anything over 1.5-2 watts per gallon of water will give you problems unless you're trying to grow plants and using CO2 injection.

Never used a UV sterilizer so I can't help with that one, sorry.

Personally, I'd use half the lights, and save yourself the cash.


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## airedale (May 7, 2007)

I have been told that you do not include Actinic lighting when considering total wattage for a tank.

Without considering the actinic lighting, it is 104 watts. Considering the Actinic lighting, it is 208 watts.


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## Toby_H (Apr 15, 2005)

Is this a planted tank? If not then there is not need for such extensive lighting...

UV lights only affect that which passes through the UV housing...

I have found that my tanks with UV lights have less algae than they do without UV lights, but the UV does not completely get rid of surface algae...

I do not think a UV light will solve your problem... although it may slow it down...


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## mithesaint (Oct 31, 2006)

airedale said:


> I have been told that you do not include Actinic lighting when considering total wattage for a tank.
> 
> Without considering the actinic lighting, it is 104 watts. Considering the Actinic lighting, it is 208 watts.


Hadn't heard that before, but can't argue with it either. Whatever the case, you have an imbalance in your aquarium. Likely it's either too much light or too much nutrients aka food.

Personally, I'd start by cutting the light in half and see how that works. I only have 64 watts over my 90 gallon mbuna, and the light seems more than adequate to me. Even grows a little algae on the rocks.

I've *heard* that by having two four hour periods of light instead of one 8 hour period that the algae is reduced. Seemed to help in a previous tank I had, but can't say for sure.

Let us know what you end up doing, and how it worked. :thumb:


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## frozennorth (Dec 16, 2008)

From what I've learned algae thrives on blue light but plants prefer the red spectrum.

I also learned another trick from dennerle.de but can't find the article there anymore. Basically it goes like this:

You have the lights on for 4 to 5 hours and then turn lights off for 2-4 hours (you should have some ambient light from a window) then lights on for another 4-7 hours. Algae don't like this kind of cycle but the plants won't mind. It did reduce algae in my 25g community tank and now with a bn pleco added I don't see any algae.

Is this a planted tank?


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## airedale (May 7, 2007)

It is not a planted tank.

I'd love to do the 4 hour periods of light, but the lights are running on a built in timer. I might be able to do something by moving the bulbs around if I cut the lighting down in half and then set the timer up to turn on the banks of light at different times.

I really like how bright the tank is and I am not sure if the fish mind, but they don't seem to be hiding a lot in the rocks, so I assume they are OK with it.

I don't think I overfeed the fish BTW. There isn't a lot of free floating food or a lot of junk in the gravel.


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## gmccreedy (Apr 19, 2007)

Sounds like Blue Green Algae (BGA), which is actually a cyanobacteria. Is indicative of low flow areas with low Nitrates, high organics (over feeding!) and even old lighting.

If its almost like a film then thats what it is. Any pictures of it?

Why do you have actinic lighting? Just for the look of it?

The four hour lighting sessions is better known to some as "siesta lighting" and its premise is based on the logic that algae does not "thrive" in conditions of intermitent short light durations. I have read people that have had great success with it, but my own experience was not conclusive. I found that plants suffer just as bad in some instances. Good house keeping and stability is usually the best way to combat algae.


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## airedale (May 7, 2007)

Sounds like Blue Green Algae (BGA), which is actually a cyanobacteria. Is indicative of low flow areas with low Nitrates, high organics (over feeding!) and even old lighting.

*- I highly doubt that it is BGA as it is bright green and actually looks like algae. Along with that, I do not overfeed my fish. I am sure of that. *
If its almost like a film then thats what it is. Any pictures of it?

Why do you have actinic lighting? Just for the look of it?

*- Yeah and it seems like others on this board do the same. I looked for reasons not to, but I couldn't find anyone saying anything negative about them. Is there something I should know about?*

The four hour lighting sessions is better known to some as "siesta lighting" and its premise is based on the logic that algae does not "thrive" in conditions of intermitent short light durations. I have read people that have had great success with it, but my own experience was not conclusive. I found that plants suffer just as bad in some instances. Good house keeping and stability is usually the best way to combat algae.

*- I don't have this option. I tried the two bulbs and I didn't like how the lighting looked. It made it dark in certain parts of the tank. Finally, please see the video of my tank:*


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## gmccreedy (Apr 19, 2007)

Hmm. You got me stumped on the algae. Pleco?

I don't know enough about the actinic lighting to really have an opinion. I am new to this board and typically run planted aquaria so actinic lighting is really not resourceful for me.

Tank is gorgeous!


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## Neogenesis (Jan 4, 2008)

I have the same issue, but using a much cheaper light fixture. Your running too many watts for too many hours during the day. Personally, in my household we are only around in the evenings to view the tank so I cut my lighting to almost nothing during the day. I've read more than once that full lighting isn't needed, it's for our enjoyment, the fish don't need it. So I stopped by the local home store and picked up some LED under cabinet lighting. It gives the tank a nice soft glow, it's a very white light, and penetrates pretty well into the tank. More of a spotlight effect than a standard fixture. It highlights the rock work well and with surface agitation will show the ripple effect on the sandy bottom like halides do in a marine tank. Then in the evening when we are around, I run full lighting for 5 hours or so. It's really helped cut down on the algae in my tank to a manageable level. Not to mention the cost saving of running LED's over a regular fixture.

A bristly nose pleco will help keep it in check as well.

It's just another solution to look at.

What are you water parameters like? That data may shed some light on this problem as well.

Scott


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## 98vols (Aug 10, 2009)

I had the same problem. I had a cheap 1 bulb fixture and I had a brown algae growing on my rocks and grass aswell as my black substrate. I didnt'd mind it on the rocks and I can clean the glass but the substrate got to me. So I changed the substrate from black pebble to crushed coral which looked great. I then upgraded my lighting to a 48 in two bulb t5 nova extreme fixture which had a white and blue bulb in it. Man did it light up the tank with in a few days the algea turned from brown to the flo green your talking about. again looked great on the rocks
and caves and cleaning glass was not a problem but then it started growing on the crushed coral and it would return within 48 hours to the glass. I would turn on the light when I woke up in the morning around 7am and I would run it untill I went to bed around 10pm. Well I started leaving it off while I was at work and just running it when I was home. From 4 or 5 pm to 10 pm and man it has made a difference. It has been two weeks and no algea on the glass.


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## mlancaster (Jul 24, 2009)

My suggestion would be a pleco. I recommend a regular brown pleco as they are tougher and more aggressive than a bristle nose. My bristle nose always seem to eventually get taken out by my mbuas. The only issue with the common pleco is they get huge and once they have completely cleaned the tank they will start competing for food and basically just add a lot of waste to your tank. You will also likely have to figure out a way to re-home him once he gets too large for your 90. So basically not the best option, a lot on negative side effects, i.e. waste everywhere and more water changes. But if you really want to get rid of the algae it will work. I personally think some of the other advice may be a better option, just giving you an option. I personally keep them because I think they are cool fish and everyday it surprises me how smart they are. Mine will even swim straight at my Texas in a territory or food dispute.

Your tank looks pristine, I donâ€™t see any algae.

The real reason I responded to your post: I had to comment about how great your red tops look; they are so cool. They also seem to be doing a spawning dance, have they had fry before, and/or is she holding now? Great looking fish and great tank set up.

Thanks,
Matt


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## addicted2cichlid (Apr 8, 2008)

have u tested for phosphates? if your using tap water there is most likely some sort of phosphate level in there.

mabey post all your water parameter levels so we can give u an accurate way to clear up the algae


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## addicted2cichlid (Apr 8, 2008)

mslancaster said:


> My suggestion would be a pleco. I recommend a regular brown pleco as they are tougher and more aggressive than a bristle nose. My bristle nose always seem to eventually get taken out by my mbuas. The only issue with the common pleco is they get huge and once they have completely cleaned the tank they will start competing for food and basically just add a lot of waste to your tank. You will also likely have to figure out a way to re-home him once he gets too large for your 90. So basically not the best option, a lot on negative side effects, i.e. waste everywhere and more water changes. But if you really want to get rid of the algae it will work. I personally think some of the other advice may be a better option, just giving you an option. I personally keep them because I think they are cool fish and everyday it surprises me how smart they are. Mine will even swim straight at my Texas in a territory or food dispute.
> 
> Your tank looks pristine, I donâ€™t see any algae.
> 
> ...


i disagree with getting a common pleco, once they hit the 4"+ mark they create a lot more waste than they clean up. stick with a bristlenose or 2.


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## airedale (May 7, 2007)

I can only measure pH, ammonia, and nitrites. I'll have to get another kit to test the rest of the water parameters. Would it be worth it to get a phosphate remover for my canister filter?


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## hidenseek (Nov 13, 2005)

you can take a sample of your water to a LFS and have them run the full range of parameters. not sure if they will charge you or not. just give them a ring.


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## 2wheelsx2 (Dec 7, 2005)

Get a bristlenose pleco or two. If they don't eat algae, it's BGA. The Actinics count as watts if you are growing algae. They do not if you are growing higher order plants. So limit the actinics to when you are viewing the tank. Get some extra timers so they can be on a separate cycle. Since it's not a planted tank, maybe even reduce the light to only your viewing hours at night.


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