# 125 Gallon Stand with 20 Long below



## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I just acquired a 125 gallon tank to put in the alcove at my house. I want to put my 20 long underneath and viewable.

I looked through several stand build ideas and didn't find anything that meets my wants. I did, however, find a stand build I thought I might be able to modify for my needs/wants.

I am using this http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=245251 stand as a model, changing a few things.

I will be using 2x6 for the top frame and top cross-members and 2x4s for the bottom frame and to sheath the 4x4s on the outside. The whole stand will be sheathed cosmetically with 1/2" Birch ply.

My concern is directly in the center where I will have a 2' 4 1/8" (28 1/8") expanse between the upper cross-members above the 20 Long. Maybe it is the scared over-builder in me, but I don't want to play around with over 1 thousand pounds of water.

Do any of you have a concern here? Or is the 2x6 more than adequate to carry the load?

Thanks for any input, I plan on starting the build in the next week.


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## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

I have always built mine, three of them, so an elephant could walk on it. If it is a glass tank, the bottom glass is raised so center support is unnecessary. If it is acrylic, use 1" solid wood planks for the top (not plywood) for peace of mind.

You called your sheathing material "1/2" [email protected]#$ ply"; my thoughts too. When it gets wet, the outer layers of plywood separate, warp and split. Solid oak, walnut, bamboo, maple, cherry, cocobolo, ebony, etc. is way too expensive for me. The question: what looks like wood and is made to be washed? My solution: laminate flooring (a cheaper Pergo knock-off from THD). I used the 8" wide 4' long that look like full planks. It comes in a multitude of appearances; I ran the grain pattern vertically, it is easy to cut and install (I glued mine to the frame) and is cheaper than plywood faced with premier woods.

Joe


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I used 2 x 6 lumber for the top section of my 125G stand and just 2 x 4's for the bottom section of the stand. I do NOT have any vertical 2 x 4 supports across the front or rear opening so I have a clear span of 62". No problems with supporting the 125G tank, no flexing of the 2 x 6 lumber. It makes it very convenient for large canister filters or sump filtration because you don't need to deal with any supports getting in the way.

I did not use 4 x 4 lumber in my stand at all. The majority of the stand is 2 x 4's. I used the design from the reefcentral website, I'll see if I can find my pics for you.

Here is the link to my 125G stand


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

This is what I was thinking before. 


But I think I will now eliminate the inside 4x4's and keep the 2x4's to attach the 1/2" Bir ch (previously censored word....lol) Plywood to the stand. I guess I'll get to play in Skethup some more.

Related Question: I am playing with the idea of running a DIY FBF off my Ehiem Pro 2 filled with mechanical filtration. I question whether I should run an inline pump (900+ GPH?) after the canister (unplugged) and before the FBF; or if I should just run the Eheim into the FBF with its own pump.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Threw this together last night.



Still 2x6 on top and 2x4 on bottom and verticals.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

Those verticals uprights in the center aren't really doing anything...unless they are notched out. If you want to add verticals, just put them in between the top and bottom brace sideways.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

Deeda said:


> I used 2 x 6 lumber for the top section of my 125G stand and just 2 x 4's for the bottom section of the stand. I do NOT have any vertical 2 x 4 supports across the front or rear opening so I have a clear span of 62". No problems with supporting the 125G tank, no flexing of the 2 x 6 lumber. It makes it very convenient for large canister filters or sump filtration because you don't need to deal with any supports getting in the way.
> 
> Here is the link to my 125G stand


I like Deeda's plan, no center verticals is an awesome idea. But if you decide to add them, you don't need 2x6's at the top. Just make the entire stand out of 2x4's. You will still be able to park a truck on it :thumb:


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Deeda: Are you talking about this design: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1169964?

If you are, I like the design. The lower tank is a show tank not a sump, so I need to pretty up the section. Without all the centers it opens up the area I need to put the canisters and other equipment.

I am hoping to get started this weekend or before. I just need some time where I am not working 12 hours a day (darn tax season). I'll take and post pics as I move through the project.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Yes, that is the design I used for my stand. I found it simple to build once I figured out the color coded design for the parts.

We chose the door design for our stand because I'm using 2 large canister filters and it makes it easier to remove the filters for service.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Deeda, I decided to go with the simpler stand you led me to. After reading that monster thread, I felt more comfortable about the strength. So I went to HD tonight and had them do the cutting for me.

Here's the start to what I was hoping to be a productive night to build the skeleton.


Got this far until I broke 2 drill bits in the wood. And realized "someone" forgot to charge the batteries on the drill.


Oh well, it's a start and tomorrow, I should have the skeleton built and ready for skinning once I make a final decision on that.

Thanks to those who read and/or commented.

All ideas are welcome and considered.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

spotmonster said:


> Deeda said:
> 
> 
> > I used 2 x 6 lumber for the top section of my 125G stand and just 2 x 4's for the bottom section of the stand. I do NOT have any vertical 2 x 4 supports across the front or rear opening so I have a clear span of 62". No problems with supporting the 125G tank, no flexing of the 2 x 6 lumber. It makes it very convenient for large canister filters or sump filtration because you don't need to deal with any supports getting in the way.
> ...


Spot, I agree. After looking at the build Deeda mentioned, I made a turn of direction concerning the build. The original idea was to put a 20 long in the bottom of the stand as a small South American setup. I decided to do away with that for now. I am thinking of putting my electrical control center in the center and use the rest of the space for my Rena XP3 and Eheim pro 2 on one side and other odds and ends on the other, until I can figure out my FBFs.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

After toting a wheelbarrow back and forth all day for my mother-in-law's garden, I finally got a few minutes in to finish the skeleton of the stand.


Now to skin it and get the electrical and plumbing installed.


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

This thread got me thinking about my smaller 60 gallon tank. It's acrylic and came with a standard stand. Should I be worried there's no 2X4's? Or is this how these kind are built. Maybe I should make my own 60 gallon stand for this tank.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

miDnIghtEr20C said:


> Should I be worried there's no 2X4's? Or is this how these kind are built. Maybe I should make my own 60 gallon stand for this tank.


Don't be worried, its stil wood to wood construction all the way to the floor. My 180 sits on the same style stand as yours. I think it's all 1x4's . When we build things ourselves, we always tend to over build really. No harm in that. It's probably a little easier for the average diy person at home to use 2x4's and end up with a good stand than using thinner stuff. It gets trickier when working with thinner wood and getting it all lined up and square and trying to account for warpage.

To the OP, I had no idea home depot would make that many cuts for you. Saved a lot of time i'm sure. Looking good!


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Thanks for the reply. Makes me feel better. I love watching these kinds of threads grow. Can't wait to see OP's finished product. Makes me wish I knew what I was doing with a saw and nails/screws. Great find by OP on that link though for the one build. I book marked that page for those instructions.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks for the comments.

I did think of using 1/2" plywood to build the frame to the dimensions of the tank and run 1x4 across the tops and bottoms then adding vertical supports at every corner. It would serve the same purpose as the supports in the current stand but already be skinned.

I am not that great with the saw so I have HD or Lowe's do all the cuts I can con them into doing for me. As long as you're not there when they are super busy, they will normally do the cutting for you. I just talk about the project I am doing and get them interested. Once they are interested, they are invested and seem to want to help more........lol

I got them to cut up some 1/2" Bi rch plywood for me today to finally skin it. No doors yet. That's the scary part for me, since I am more likely to cut off a finger than to get a straight cut with any saw. Here's a few pics of today's progress.



Second pic is the electrical control center that will be mounted in the right hand side wall.

Somewhere in this forum is the thread from my first stand build from eons ago. I just can't get my old account to work anymore. This control panel is based off it.

The plugs will be mounted to the under the top frame or inside it facing down. This creates a natural drip loop when you have to push the plug in, in an upward position. That was something TheFishGuy and I worked on a few years ago.

I'm excited to get this tank going soon. I hope to have more done tomorrow. Enjoy.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

Tells us more about the control center.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

spotmonster said:


> Tells us more about the control center.


The control center is simply to be able to do maintenance without having to find plugs and have multi-plugs all over the place.

The darker colored switch on the right is a lighted switch for the main power. In case of a catastrophe, I can hit that switch and kill the power to all plugs in the stand.

The two switches top left are in-wall timer switches to control the lights without me having to manually turn them on and off. 1 is for the day lights and the other for the moon/night LED lights. I went with in-wall timers this time because I had a light bar go out which made me realize that the plug in type timers don't have ground plugs on most of them. My temporary replacement light was a 3-prong grounded light. So until the new tank is up and running, I am stuck turning on and off the lights every morning and night.

The bottom 3 switches are for the other systems: 1-Filters, 2-Heaters, 3-auxilary items (UGJ pumps, etc.) I can turn off the filters to clean them without having to turn off the rest of the pumps.

The plugs that the 3 bottom switches power are all going to face down in the stand to create a natural drip loop. I can also place the plugs in locations that make more sense for the items plugging in to them. For example, instead of having all the filter and light plugs come to a central location, I can move the filter plugs close to the filters to make it easier to find the right wire for the filter I am currently cleaning. I'll show what I mean in pics from the stand and 55G tank this 125G is replacing.

Tank and alcove where new one is going. The mess is what my wife wants to disappear.



The current control center (I have to scavenge from it when I bring the new tank online.)


And the plugs facing the ground.



And yes, this old stand is way over built. I think, it can hold 160k lbs. (Not sure how many rock haulers that would be....  )


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I got a little done on the doors. I was originally going to put the 20L on the bottom as a small show tank, BUT after thinking about it, I remembered my sons dog. She found out recently that fish live in the tank and THEY MOVE. She barks at anything that moves. So all I need to do to drive myself insane, is to put fish at this little yappers eye level. So scrap the low level display tank.

Since I can't draw a straight line without help (rulers, builders square, etc.), I knew I would need help cutting a straight line with a jigsaw as well. So I screwed a piece of 1x4 to the stand to use as a straight edge to run the jigsaw against. I just measured the distance between the edge of the blade to the outside edge of the base and put the board at that distance from the line I needed to cut.






And the doors hung.



And installed the control panel to its final location.


Now to get the canopy built and then pretty everything up.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

That control panel is awesome, I've never thought of that! Thanks for the details. Stand's looking good!


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I think I may have to do a skeleton rebuild. I finally got the tank into the garage to dry fit it and, much to my disappointment, the tank hangs over by about 0.16" on back and left side.


This is a piece of 1/2" ply held against the edge.

I guess my options are: 1) let the plywood hold some of the weight and modify my trim or 2) recut the 2x6 top frame and 2x4 bottom frame and correct the mistake I made for not dry fitting earlier.

At least I got a shadow of a glimpse of what will soon be sitting my living room.  


Any suggestions on dealing with my mistake would be helpful.


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Beautiful.. c r a p... do you really have to start again because of that? That will make a difference?


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## jeffkro (Feb 13, 2014)

You could always put a plywood top on it.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

jeffkro said:


> You could always put a plywood top on it.


That was my first thought as well. I just have to think how I will make all the trim line up by the width being off just that little.

I plan to have the sides of the canopy come all the way down to the stand making the sides continuous top to floor. If I rebuild the frame, the plywood sides will mate up properly and the seam hide behind trim. If the sides hang off .08" on each side, I have to disguise the difference.

I'll sleep on it since some ideas are starting to bounce around in my head. (Like I will actually sleep while thinking about it.)


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Got a little more done after the stand rebuild. Here's today's progress.
Prepped for the destruction and rebuild of stand skeleton.


This was the difference to make up on the top and bottom frames.


Rebuilt with underlayment on top and bottom.


Fits like a glove.


Canopy mocked up and ready to complete with T5 lights and led moonlights. I need to finish building out the back and top first.


And finally, stand with canopy and control center.


I changed the hinges for the doors and bought some pull knobs my wife asked me to put on. Now to finish the canopy and electrical then on to finish trimming and stain piant.


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## Elrato (Jan 20, 2014)

build is looking good & i like the control panel, i will have to incorporate that into my next tank build


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

It was a great day for me. My original plan was to man a wheel barrow and shovel to fill the elevated garden I built for my mother-in-law. But the skies opened up and that plan was thrown out the window.

So I used my time today to play around with the stand and finish some more. Here's some of the progress.

Ripped the canopy apart to rebuild the frame to work better for my needs. It is still the same basic idea, I just needed to redo a frame to properly add the lights.


Here's the canopy back together.

Lights installed.


DISCLAIMER ALERT: I debated whether I should show any of the electrical work or not. I decided to not show what I did because I am not a licensed electrician, but I do have experience working for an electrician years ago and doing my research again before touching any wiring. If you plan on doing any electrical wiring, please know what you're doing before attempting. It is ok to keep your "man card" if you ask someone for guidance with electrical. It is more than the fishes lives at stake if you do something wrong.

Here are pics of the lights once wired and working.




And finally, started working on trimming the doors and the stand.


I am hoping to get the control panel wired and more trim done tomorrow.

Thanks for following along so far and happy building.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

Looking good!


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thank you Spot.

I got a little more done on the trim today.




And this is where we stand right now. (No pun intended.)


Now I need to make a decision about the trim around the doors. If you have a preference, let me know.

Options 1 - Gives me ~2.5" between trims.



Options 2 - Gives me ~1.25" between trims.



And finally, my daughter likes the idea of this on each door and the canopy directly in line with the diamonds on the door for a total of 4 of them.
I sort of like the idea too.


Ordering my moonlights tomorrow. And thanks to a little guidance from Steve C, I found the foam to make a 3D background. Budget willing, I'll make one to give my Demasoni little shelves to make their own.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I think it will look a bit funky with the small trim attached to the doors and then additional trim around the doors. Is it too late to remove the little trim and replace it with one of the other styles you have?

I love the suggestion to add the diamonds to the center of the door, I think they will look great.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Deeda said:


> I think it will look a bit funky with the small trim attached to the doors and then additional trim around the doors. Is it too late to remove the little trim and replace it with one of the other styles you have?
> 
> I love the suggestion to add the diamonds to the center of the door, I think they will look great.


I went with the small trim because the larger trim made it look too cramped. Also my wife liked the small trim look better as well (which is the main reason I went with it). Her patience with me is astounding. She has lived with a large, empty tank sitting on the bedroom floor for a few weeks now. To allow me to make the stand myself, she said it needed to look like a piece of furniture. I think it is definitely getting there.

I'll get some pics up this evening. I still have to work out the diamond details. I am average at best with a saw of any kind.

Thanks for the comments.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Got a some more done with trim. Miscut a few pieces so I have to go back to Lowe's tomorrow and get another stick.
Here are a few pics of the almost finished stand.



Yesterday, my daughter helped me paint the inside of the stand and canopy. 



Nest steps: 1) Stain after last 2 pieces of trim, 2) plumbing, 3) Wiring, and 4) 3D background


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I hit a milestone today, got the last pieces of trim on and stained the stand and canopy.

The diamond shapes turned out better than I thought.
Before stain:


After stain:


While staining it, I thought I smudged the stain on the trim a bit. It turned out to be the grain of the trim. I like the look.

Now on to the plumbing and electrical.

What do you think?


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## Elrato (Jan 20, 2014)

looks good!! cant wait to see everything finished & stocked w/ fish


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Elrato said:


> looks good!! cant wait to see everything finished & stocked w/ fish


You think you can't wait? I keep seeing the tank on the floor in my bedroom, with a stand read to take it. 

Stock list is 11 Demasoni (and any babies hiding out in the rocks), ~9 Acei and 1 Syno. Eupterus (my favorite)


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Finally got a chance to break away from work and start the background. I also got the night lights installed.


Mocked up with the night light on.


Unless this little guy doesn't eat the tail off another any more fish, he'll make it to the new tank.


My son said he wants to help with painting the background. Now, how to get a teenager motivated to work on my project?


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Well, I got a little more done. Rainy weekends help me break away from other projects to work on this more.

Got the background painted black for a base color.



Added another coat of drylock to get the gray I wanted. Almost, but I can live with it. Test fit it in the tank to take measurements for the side panels that will hide/house the intakes and spraybars.

We (son and I) just need to add some green dry brushing for algae appearance. We will probably do some dry brushing with black to give a little more depth of shadows.

And finally started working on dry fitting the plumbing. The intake design is based on the priming system for the Rena XP3 canister filter going on the tank.


I hope your enjoying this as much as I am. There are so many great projects going on in these forums.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Plumbing question: 
I am using 1/2" pvc for the intakes going into an Eheim and Rena canister filters. I would like to run 1 single return line to the tank. I want to use a T fitting to allow a spray bar at the top and one going vertical or horizontal on the bottom.

I have 3/4" pvc ready to use for the return line if it doesn't inhibit flow.

Do any of you think this will be an issue, or should it be fine?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I would prefer to keep the returns from the filters to the tank separate from each other for a couple reasons. One is that servicing the filters is easier. Two is that you have to add extra ball valves to the plumbing so that the one filter can be disconnected and the other filter is still operating. Three, if you do decide to combine the filter returns, don't use a tee fitting, use a wye fitting. A tee fitting is more of a restriction due to the angle of the fitting.

What is the rough inside diameter of the returns on your two filters?


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Deeda said:


> What is the rough inside diameter of the returns on your two filters?


They are 1/2". I currently have 1/2" PVC on the returns for both of them.
I can run 3/4" PVC on both returns. I already have all the elbows and such. Or I can return all the 3/4" and get all 1/2" as well.
I also agree on the Y connectors.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

The 3/4" wye would probably work and then you could reduce to 1/2" after the wye.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Well, wife is happier. I finally got the tank out of the bedroom and on the stand in the garage.
Moved it to put the background in and start working on the side backgrounds and plumbing.


Now I am getting anxious to have this finished. :drooling:


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Your project is looking great, nice job so far!!!


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Deeda said:


> Your project is looking great, nice job so far!!!


Thanks, I got a lot of inspiration from this site over the last 7 or 8 years and drooled over other peoples projects.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

After 4 failed attempts at starting the side backgrounds, I finally got the right side started.
It wouldn't have taken so long if I wasn't trying to hide the returns and heater in them. I had to keep scrapping ideas when I was planning them because each time, I found that the plumbing wouldn't work as I wanted. The last attempt would have allowed the water to go an inch above the heaters fill line (it's not submersible).

Here is the beginning of what I finally settled on. The fan spray bar rests on top (return from the Rena) and the return from the Ehiem will come straight down the corner along with the heater. I'll be closing off the open area in the back to hide return and heater with exit hidden exit holes small enough to keep the medium and larger fish from entering.



And mocked up in the tank. (Sorry for bad picture quality, battery was crapping out taking the quality with it. I'll get a better pic tomorrow hopefully when side is finished and textured with 1st coat of dryloc on.)


Thanks for following along.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Woot woot, I got the sides silicone and textured. Will be painting the next 3 days to get them looking like the background.

Right side (Return side of tank)


Area where the in-tank heater will be next to vertical return.




Textured and ready for paint.


Left Side (In-take side)
Slots on front edge allowing water from all levels of the tank to enter in-take chamber. There is something similar on the back side as well.



Now that the side background builds are complete, I can finalize plumbing lengths and locations.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Got the sides painted and installed. I am just waiting for the silicone to cure so I can add water and let whatever is going to leech out do its thing for a bit. I am working on the plumbing to get it ready, but have to wait for my son to get back to help turn the tank around on the stand and put the canopy back on to make sure everything fits right. If nothing major happens, I should have the tank in position and fishes swimming by Saturday night on the 19th.

Here is the Right side. (Return side)


And the Left Side. (In-take side)


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## partsrep (Mar 14, 2005)

Awesome project! I'm jealous...


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks Partsrep.

I'll get some pics later tonight after I fill it for testing. This is going to be the longest week aver for me.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

A few more pics. I decided to wait a little longer for the silicone to cure, it still had a smell going on.

Daylights on.



Waited until it was dark outside to take the night light pics.
Garage light on.


And complete darkness.


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

That looks awesome. That's a good feeling to have getting all that done. Great job.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks, I'm waiting to see how yours turns out as well.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I need some advice:

I am trying to finish plumbing the final return line. The spraybar is complete and in place. An oversight on my part caused me to mis-size the box and canopy opening for the final return. This return will dump straight down next to the heater, which is what I forgot to account for. I can think of 2 possible solutions so far:

1) Angle the PVC 90 degree elbow with a short portion of PVC to dump at an angle into the heater well.
2) Use a 1/2" pvc to hose adapter behind the tank to be able to run the hose with more flexibility. But will it kink in such a short space to go 90 degrees down?

Any thoughts or suggestion are welcome.


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## hose91 (Mar 5, 2014)

So, maybe I'm not visualizing it very well, but when I went back and looked at your pictures on Wed, 9 April (the second one, with your toes in the picture!!) I see the vertical "chute" where your in tank heater goes. So, you're return line basically comes up the back of the tank and makes a 180 over the rim and then dumps into that well? If that's so, and you're worried about the turbulence and such of dumping water into that well, you could make a vertical spraybar that extends down into that well next to your heater and has lots and lots of holes in all different directions for the length of the pvc, so that you return the water there without the turbulence, and without backpressuring (is that even a word? ) the pump, with enough holes so that the flow out of any one of them isn't overpowering?


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks for the input. The pressure isn't my concern, and your thought pattern is my original intent. The problem is the glass top wasn't taken into consideration. I lose water like crazy on my 55 that has 2 long openings in the back for plumbing and HOBs. I don't even want to imagine what having openings along the back of the 125 will lose. With that said, I am using the plastic strip that came with the glass tops and cutting only what is needed to allow plumbing into and out of the tank.

With the spraybar return in place flush against the right side, the heater and second return have to fit in a space where basically only the return or heater would fit comfortably, leaving only space for 1/4 of the other. I also have to use the plastic strip to support the heater. The heater wont actually come in contact with it, but I need it for support since there is no open glass to use suction cups.


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## hose91 (Mar 5, 2014)

Hmmmm. With all the work you've put in so far, I'm sure you're ready to get this one across the finish line. The collective knowledge here is pretty impressive. Maybe a picture or two will help stir the creative juices to find a solution?


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks.


hose91 said:


> Hmmmm. With all the work you've put in so far, I'm sure you're ready to get this one across the finish line.?


You know it. Saturday is the latest. Filling it tonight to test for leaks and plumbing.



hose91 said:


> The collective knowledge here is pretty impressive. Maybe a picture or two will help stir the creative juices to find a solution?


I think I found my solution. I have to do something I didn't originally want to do, but am now convinced it is way better, especially for big maintenance issues.

I need to cut the canopy frame that the plumbing lines go over on the back of the tank and make it removable. I'll get a pic up later when I can finally work on it. I realized least night while thinking through a solution and more this morning, that my main issue is not how to do what I want, but my own idiotic, self imposed space limitations. That will be fixed by being able to remove the canopy without having to take the plumbing apart.

This also solves another issue I was concerned about. I will now be able to completely glue all the PVC parts instead of leaving an unglued weak bend inside the tank area.

Moral of the story: Make sure your canopy can be removed without taking plumbing apart.


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

dsiple3 said:


> Thanks, I'm waiting to see how yours turns out as well.


Not half as good as yours. I won't have a background up or anything like that this time around. Maybe next year when I buy a brand new tank. Saw a 180 glass new for 410 or so at my LFS... next year!

Love your stuff on the stand too... that's what I'm looking for right now. Things to glue onto the wood. But ya.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

miDnIghtEr20C said:


> Love your stuff on the stand too... that's what I'm looking for right now. Things to glue onto the wood. But ya.


The trim is base board, $7 for an 8' strip at my local Lowe's. And the diamonds are the scraps for when I had to make the corners meet up. 4 triangles make 1 diamond.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I got the tank filled tonight. I almost had to change pants because of involuntary release of..... well, let's just say that I was disappointed for about 5 minutes. While filling the tank I heard noises that originally made me nervous. 125 gallons of water on the garage floor was not what I intended for the night. Once the water was up to the black trim and the faint noises stopped, I was a bit happy. No leaks immediately apparent at the corners.

THEN I saw this:


My heart almost stopped prompting me to look for my phone to call 911. I checked every corner, top and bottom trim; but no water anywhere. Then I realized what the noises I was hearing were. Water pressure was pushing against the thinner beads of silicone holding the backgrounds in. Once the water found a small point to enter, it did what water does. It leveled itself behind the backgrounds. The water has been in for about 30 minutes as of this post and no more dropping of level.

Anywhoo, I got the plumbing issue figured out and everything is glued up. And no, that is not the heater for the tank. It is a spare one for a smaller tank I used to mock up the opening I needed for the real one. The diameter is the same.


Intakes are on the right of the photo. I looked for the average GPH for the PVC size and both filters will draw less than a third of the average together. Since both filters have ball valves in the hose connection fittings, I am assuming that with 1 filter out for cleaning, the other should be able to run. If I am wrong, I get to redo a little PVC to add ball valves to stop the flow to any one particular filter.


I probably won't sleep well until the water level hasn't dropped anymore for at least a few hours. Well, time to go check for leaks again.


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## Elrato (Jan 20, 2014)

things are looking good opcorn:


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## partsrep (Mar 14, 2005)

Nice work on the plumbing. I see the output is bonded to the elbow just inside the tank. Did you leave the remainder as a press fit so you can adjust the output jets up or down as necessary?


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Oh man! Scary with the water, but it looks like you found what happened. Gonna look great when all is said and done.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

partsrep said:


> Nice work on the plumbing. I see the output is bonded to the elbow just inside the tank. Did you leave the remainder as a press fit so you can adjust the output jets up or down as necessary?


The output that drops down to the heater area is glued. It drops about 2" below the glass tops and the line is strapped to the stand so it won't move enough to come out. If I find I need a little more length, I can dry fit a 1/2" sleeve on the output without much problem for spacing. The biggest problem was getting past the plastic trim on the back of the glass top.

I'll leak test the intake and returns later today and paint them black. Just need to drill the intake holes and everything will be ready for Saturday.

And no, the water hasn't fallen anymore than it did last night. All is good so far.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Since I injured my back lifting a stupid heavy TV by myself while taking it to recycle I wasn't able to do much more than think of what I can do to occupy my time. So I drilled and painted the intake and returns. I only painted what could be seen through the tank if you tried really hard to find plumbing.

Intake


Drop Return


Spray Return


Is it Saturday yet? I am ready to do this thing.


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I started Friday night to get things into the living room ready to set up. With some help, I moved the 55G and Stand over to open up where the new tank is going. I got the wiring done for all the plugs on Saturday morning and had to leave for an appointment.


Then as I got back, I worked on the plumbing's fine tuning (cutting hoses to fit for the canisters). 


Aquascaping with 200lbs of cleaned play sand. I think it is only 190lbs after cleaning and removal from old tank. The sand is anywhere from 1" to 2" above the black trim of the tank.


Just incase someone might see the inside of the canopy sides where there is open glass between the front edge of side background and tank, I covered sides of the tank with black poster board. I also put strips of poster board behind the joints where the background pieces came together but allowed light to come through. (Lesson learned on next Background.)


Then I got to irritate my wife and mother-in-law at the same time with the water changer hooked up to the kitchen sink to fill the tank.


I actually started wiring at 7:30AM and got the fish moved and canopy on at 11:30PM, so when I plugged everything up, the night light plugs were already powered.

Daylights on. I had to reset a T5 tube on the right side.

And my companion who found it very important to always be at my feet so I would remember how gravity works.


And one of the dems already finding the background useful.


The floating bucket in the tank houses a dem who is growing his tail back. He will be released in 2 weeks probably and the bucket removed.

The tank numbers:
125G Marineland Tank
Stand is 36" tall (with canopy it is 6' in total-100% DIY)

Filtration:
Rena XP3 running the spray bar on the right side of tank
Eheim 2027 or is it 2127 (Pro II) dropping into the heater reservoir
Background is 100% DIY

Inhabitants:
10 P. Demasoni (Yes I know, up the number)
4 Copadichromis borleyi (all females, and faster buggers when trying to net them)
6 adult and ? # of juvie P. Acei (Msuli)
1 Synodontus Eupterus
Unknown number of snails

Wants for added inhabitants:
4-5 Clown Loaches
Considering adding Synodontus Decorus
Looking for a male to play with the female Borleyi


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Awesome. Great post. Everything is looking great and man, that's a beautiful dog!


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## partsrep (Mar 14, 2005)

Outstanding!


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## hose91 (Mar 5, 2014)

Congrats on reaching the end or at least near the end of an epic DIY project! The alcove looks great. I went back and looked at the pictures of "the mess my wife wants gone" and I'd say you accomplished that goal, unequivocally! I also love the idea of the control panel and switches you installed for ease of turning off some portions of the system at a time, and having the inwall timers for the two lighting systems. I have put two of those in my house, one runs an exhaust fan (ironically, in the space where I ended up putting the tank, at the top of the stairs on the landing) and another in my garage that runs the lights on the front, because the only switch was inside the (stand alone) garage structure. Great idea to put them in the stand. Do you have any regret about not fitting the 20 long below the 125 as you originally thought you might?


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks everyone for following along. I just added a few more dems tonight, still not the amount I want, but it's getting there.

As far as the 20 long I originally intended below, I don't regret it now. In hindsight, I would have been driven nuts by the small dog yapping at the fish at her eye level. If it wasn't for her, I wouldn't have changed the tank below (except to maybe put the 55G instead).

I did run into another problem with the canopy, but it will be fixed later. I fed the fishes on Saturday night before putting the canopy on. I tried later to feed the catfish when he became active with the night lights, but couldn't get the glass top to open. Part of the canopy frame was right over it. As I tried to fix it Sunday (so I could feed the fish), I somehow twisted the canopy just enough that the door doesn't fully close. It didn't bother me so much, but my wife did notice it last night and today. I'll end up rebuilding it at some point, but not yet. I'll change the design to have the hinges back to the center of the top for more room for major maintenance or aggression control.


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## Elrato (Jan 20, 2014)

WOW!!! looks awesome, sit back & enjoy all your hard work


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## TheJ0kerrr (Aug 14, 2012)

Awesome thread... sure is inspiring, now if I could only find some time.

Congrats on the whole build, hope you don't get too bored now that it's finished and just enjoy it for a while!!


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

TheJ0kerrr said:


> Awesome thread... sure is inspiring, now if I could only find some time.
> 
> Congrats on the whole build, hope you don't get too bored now that it's finished and just enjoy it for a while!!


Thanks, I call this tank my "6 foot fish TV". As far as being bored, I don't see how that is possible. I just ordered a pair of sexed "Red Fin" Borleyi, a Syno. Decorus and 2 chocolate BN Plecos. That'll make the male Borleyi happy with 5 females at his disposal.

Now my son wants me to rebuild the stand for the old 55G to put in his bedroom. He wants to house a Bala Shark (until it is too big for that size tank, of course) and a few tank mates. I am going to change the build up a lot and make a 3/4" ply box with 1x4 strips attached to the inside edges for added over building. He wants the full monty on it: stand, canopy, and background. Since it is acrylic, I need to figure out how to make a BG that doesn't attach to the tank itself. I guess when I start it in a month or so, with the wife's permission, I'll start a new thread for it.

PS: Is it weird I am as enamored with the 10G I set up on my desk as a quarantine tank as I am with the 125? I currently have a small 1.5" Dem and a 1.5" Acei keeping it cycled. The Acei has moved every bit of sand on the left half of the tank so far. he actually was kicking up so much sand over night I had to clean out the impellor on the Penguin 150. There was so much fine sand between the shaft and the plastic sleeve it wouldn't spin at all. Shortened the intake to prevent that from happening again.


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## boomer92 (Apr 17, 2013)

Not weird at all, awesome tank BTW!


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## dsiple3 (Mar 4, 2014)

I did find something interesting about the heater reservoir I set up. The heater setting was not changed after being in the 55G. It kept that water at 79F. After putting it into the chamber on the 125, the temp rose to 83F. I figure it is either all the foam insulation and/or more efficient heating in the chamber. I had to move the setting back to about 76-77F to maintain 79-80F.


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