# New Guy.... Please help?



## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

I've had this tank set up for a month and it looks like a snow globe. It seems to get better and worse throughout the day. I'm running a penguin 350 filter system. Maybe I shouldn't have bought the new fish (5 days ago). I've changes filter cartridges and it makes it worse. Can't get help from the folks at Marineland. Here is a link to a video I posted on YouTube. All water tests come back prefect (PH/Amm/NO2/NO3). I've tried using the Accu-Clear, but that didn't fix it either.

Thank you!!!!


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Hi and Welcome to C-F!!

We need additional details about your tank setup please.

What size tank is it and what are the dimensions of the tank?

You say the tank has been set up for about a month. How did you cycle the tank prior to adding any fish? If you aren't familiar with cycling a tank, let us know.

What are the exact results for your water tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? The numbers are important to help determine if the tank is cycled properly. Also, are you using test strips, liquid test kits or is your local fish store doing the testing for you?

What fish do you have in the tank presently? I saw neons, platys and some Lake Malawi cichlids but it would be helpful if you can post the species you have.

Please do not change your filter inserts for a few weeks as much of your good bacteria is present on the cartridges and this may be what is causing the cloudiness you are experiencing.


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## Austinite (Jul 27, 2013)

I can't help you on the snow item, but did want to comment that tropicals mixed with cichlids will not work out in the long run. Did you have the tropicals just to do a cycling of the tank with fish?

What kind of cichlids do you currently have and how many? And what do you plan to add?


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

THANK YOU!! for your replies. I'll try to answer all your questions. I put rocks and water in a month ago. I waited about 10 days and added the Mollies and Tetras to help "set up" the tank. I think it's a 55gal (48 x 12.5 x 21). I have the API Master Test Kit. (About 20 days later) The readings I got before I added the Cichlids was pH7.4/0ppm Amm/0ppm NO2/0ppm NO3. I don't have an explanation how I "cycled" the tank. I'll assume I didn't do it properly. The neons are gone, and I kinda expected that. The Mollies are doing fine, but I'm going to yank them for a smaller tank for my girls. Please forgive me for sounding dumb, I was assured all the Cichlids I bought were African and would be OK together. I bought 10. Two of Each: Peacock, yellow, albino, acei, and the bluish striped ones. I have a Plecos and 2 Pico Cats in there now also.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Oh yeah..... Also, before the Cichlids, I shut the filter off one day for a couple hours and all the "snow" floated to the top. I employed a little science, a shop vac, and water tension to suck out the debris. Then I rinsed the cartridges out again and the filter itself. As soon as I plugged it in, BOOM it was back. That's when I called Marineland. They were helpful, but I didn't get a resolution.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

OK, your tank is not properly cycled simply because of the Zero reading for nitrate (NO3). Did you follow the instructions for the NO3 test kit by thoroughly shaking the #2 reagant bottle for a minimum of 30 seconds before adding the drops to the test tube? If you didn't, run the test again, it is a common mistake done by almost all new testers.

Since you already have fish in the tank, I recommend you purchase a bottled bacteria product such as Dr Tims One & Only, StartSmart Complete or a similar product and follow the instructions exactly. Using this type of product will help to jump start your good bacteria AND will help to reduce any ammonia or nitrite damage to your fish once it starts to rise in your uncycled tank.

Yes, your tank is a 55G based on the dimensions.

Now for the fish, yes you have African cichlids. 
The peacocks are from the genus Aulonocara, you don't list the species name but if you post some clear pics in the Unidentified forum, you may get lucky.
The acei are from the genus Pseuodotropheus. These fish can get about 8" long when adults.
The yellow fish may be Labidochromis caeruleus or yellow labs but then again they might not be.

I also don't think the Penguin 350 power filter will be sufficient once your fish are adults but you should be OK for a couple months. You can check the Product Reviews at the top of the page if you need any suggestions for an additional filter and see what other members recommend.

Is this your first fish tank ever or have you had one before? You've made the same mistakes that most all of us have done when we first set up a tank but don't worry, we'll keep you on the right path.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Your replies, comments, opinions are very much appreciated! This is my first "real" attempt at a cool tank. Yes, I shook that second bottle well. I read the instructions thouroughly. I will visit my LPS tomorrow and grab the product you recommended. Here's an updated video I just shot.....


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

You might want to consider raising your tank water level a bit to help reduce the bubbles that I see. It is possible that this is contributing to some of the water cloudiness you are seeing.

Just a guess but the blue barrred fish might be Pseudotropheus crabro or the bumbleebee cichlid. If it is, they are highly aggressive fish when mature and can wreak extreme havoc on your other fish when they start spawning.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

I noticed another cartridge slot on the penguin 350. Could I add a felt pad or something that could capture these finer particles? I have no problem adding another filter when they get bigger.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

CGLarry said:


> I noticed another cartridge slot on the penguin 350. Could I add a felt pad or something that could capture these finer particles? I have no problem adding another filter when they get bigger.


Adding a cartage really won't help. Filtration is not really our issue just yet. What you are seeing as debris in the water is a bacteria bloom. There is not enough good, denitrifying bacteria in your tank yet to take care of the bad bacteria from the amonia and nitrites caused by the bio load. Adding the bottled bacteria will go a long way in cycling your tank and reducing the cloudiness.

The AquaClear 110 would be a great filter to add onto this tank. They are amazing filters and I actually prefer them to the biowheel. Both filters together would do a great job on your tank. I, however, would add a canister filter. The Aquatop cf500uv or Rena xp4 are decent, inexpensive options. I would still run the BW 350 even with one of those as two filters is always better than one.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Thank you.... I added some quick-start and accu-clear this morning. I'll keep an eye on it.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Deeda said:


> You might want to consider raising your tank water level a bit to help reduce the bubbles that I see. It is possible that this is contributing to some of the water cloudiness you are seeing.


Thanks... But those aren't bubbles. That's the debris. It collects on top. That's why i used the shop vac to draw it off....


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

As I run my weekly tests, what numbers should I be looking for? I'm going to keep a detailed spreadsheet from here out to capture the changes.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Your tank will be cycled once ammonia and nitrite are zero and you have a nitrate reading. To confuse you even more, a nitrate reading will be inaccurate when nitrite is present. Read the articles on this site pertaining to cycling.

You can also use seachem prime to aid you in keeping ammo non toxic. Perform water changes to keep ammo under .25 ppm.

Aim for 7-10x gph tank volume for your filtration. More filtration, the better. Don't change filter cartridges while cycling your tank. And when you do any filter cleaning, use dechlorinated water. I agree with the above recommendation on a canister filter.

Are you getting your fish from Petsmart?


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Thanks Iggy...
I feel compelled to to say "yes, I'm sorry, I got them at Pet Smart". My LPS was short on supply. No daggers at you, Iggy. Why is that a common question?
Respectfully,
Larry


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

The tank seems to be going well. All fish seem healthy. Ran another test today, however, maybe too soon after adding API Quick-Start and Accu-Clear. I'll post new readings after my test on Monday.

Thank You everyone for your replies!!!!


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## Austinite (Jul 27, 2013)

Hi, I know it may seem like things are going well in the tank but the reality is that an improperly cycled tank is very toxic to the fish and can affect their health long term. They may decline in health over time, or be susceptible to illness later, even if they seem happy & active now. So #1 priority is to correct that, which you are doing with the bottled bacteria. You will need to test the water every single day, and perform small water changes daily to keep the toxins manageable while you cycle your tank with the fish in there. Read the fishless cylce article to get an idea of what you are looking for, even though you already have fish in there and you're sort of starting in the middle of the process.

The reason the question is asked about Petsmart is because you should not rely on them as your source for information as far as what cichlids to choose and what is compatible. And do not have them performing water tests for you. Often the staff is not knowledgeable about cichlids, proper tank cycling, and a perfect example is that someone gave you the advice to combine peacocks with mbuna, which is bad advice. Also Petsmart often sells the most attractive cichlids which happen to be the most aggressive ones that are only appropriate for the experienced cichlid hobbyist, like bumblee cichlids. Lastly, big box petstores are known for selling hybrid cichlids and are not a recommended place to purchase cichlids. Hybrids may look pretty but you can't garuantee that they will behave like the "real" species and then if they spawn, you are producing more hybrids.

So you will need to decide what kind of fish you plan to keep long term, a peacock/hap tank or a mbuna tank. You can't have both, or you will end up with dead fish later once the mbuna kill off the peacocks. Mbuna are far more aggressive and require the proper male/female ratios.

Lastly, sorry so long, what kind of substrate do you have in your tank? Many people use pool filter sand as cichlids like it and it resembles their natural habitat. It looks like you have very large gravel in there, which looks great, but is not well suited for cichlids.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Austinite said:


> Hi, I know it may seem like things are going well in the tank but the reality is that an improperly cycled tank is very toxic to the fish and can affect their health long term. They may decline in health over time, or be susceptible to illness later, even if they seem happy & active now. So #1 priority is to correct that, which you are doing with the bottled bacteria. You will need to test the water every single day, and perform small water changes daily to keep the toxins manageable while you cycle your tank with the fish in there. Read the fishless cylce article to get an idea of what you are looking for, even though you already have fish in there and you're sort of starting in the middle of the process.
> 
> The reason the question is asked about Petsmart is because you should not rely on them as your source for information as far as what cichlids to choose and what is compatible. And do not have them performing water tests for you. Often the staff is not knowledgeable about cichlids, proper tank cycling, and a perfect example is that someone gave you the advice to combine peacocks with mbuna, which is bad advice. Also Petsmart often sells the most attractive cichlids which happen to be the most aggressive ones that are only appropriate for the experienced cichlid hobbyist, like bumblee cichlids. Lastly, big box petstores are known for selling hybrid cichlids and are not a recommended place to purchase cichlids. Hybrids may look pretty but you can't garuantee that they will behave like the "real" species and then if they spawn, you are producing more hybrids.
> 
> ...


All very good advice. I would just add that you can keep SOME mbuna with peacocks. I have some with yellow labs and acei and they do fine since these are some of the less aggressive mbuna. I would not keep them with anything else tho.


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## Austinite (Jul 27, 2013)

This is true, I have also kept yellow labs with peacocks with no issues.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I just assumed so since your stock is all available there.

They tend to give out poor advice, is all. Especially when it comes to stocking fish. Apparently, they believe every fish can be kept in a 29 gallon tank.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Iggy Newcastle said:


> I just assumed so since your stock is all available there.
> 
> They tend to give out poor advice, is all. Especially when it comes to stocking fish. Apparently, they believe every fish can be kept in a 29 gallon tank.


Yes, petsmart gives out the WORST fish advice! They once told me that I couldn't add any more fish to my 29g because tiger barbs grow to be 4". I don't think even seen a 3" tiger barb! Maybe a very old, very lucky male. 

But ya, don't go to them for fish advice. Come here, there are a lot more cichlid experts.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

I only used PetSmart to buy the fish. I use my Local Pet Shop (LPS) for supplies and advice. He didn't have a really good inventory on FW fish, he has mostly salt water species.

Today's readings: Ph=7.4 Ammonia=.25ppm NO2=.15ppm NO3=20ppm


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## Austinite (Jul 27, 2013)

I know I already mentioned this, but I would not buy fish there either. Most of us order fish online, in order to get exactly what you want and know you are getting what you ask for (not a hybrid & not another fish that looks similar). Even some LFS (non Petsmart places) are not reliable, you need to research and make sure you know more than them. For example, I was at a LFS here, and I was looking to get maingano's and the lady in this particular store replied I have them, they're either the mainganos or the electric blue johanni, I mean, they look the same. She said it as if, no difference if they at least look the same. Which they do look similar, but they are not the same and I knew right then that I would not buy fish from that store.


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## cich2it (Jul 23, 2012)

Anyone see his readings today? I would do a small WC to keep that ammo below .25ppm. :thumb:


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

I REALLY appreciate everyone's input. I understand I'm a noob who is a fan of Cichlids and always wanted some. I was recently afforded the opportunity to set a tank up, and despite my efforts of exercising patience, I may have jeopardized the fish. I'm going to run another test tomorrow morning and do a 5 gal WC. I'm using the API quickstart with the new water. Is that OK? The bacteria bloom seems to be less severe. The particles I do see are much finer in size that what I've been seeing. I put some API Accu-Clear in on the 4th. That may have helped.

Thank You All !!!!!


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

On your water test parameters, did you mean ammonia 25 ppm and nitrite (NO2) 15 ppm? If so, I suggest doing at least a 25% water change to bring those numbers down a bit.

I also suggest you stop using the Accu-Clear product for the time being. The less extra additives in the tank, the better it will be. I have used that product in the past but not when cycling a tank.

You will find on this and other forums that many people don't care for the local chain pet stores, either for the selection of fish or the advice they give. Don't take it to much to heart if some of the comments seem harsh. The comments aren't directed at you specifically, it's more of a general observation.

Remember that almost everyone has been in the same relative position you are now when starting their first tank.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Deeda said:


> Remember that almost everyone has been in the same relative position you are now when starting their first tank.


I know I have!


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

> the lady in this particular store replied I have them, they're either the mainganos or the electric blue johanni, I mean, they look the same. She said it as if, no difference if they at least look the same


Ha!


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## saALI (Oct 7, 2013)

Hi Larry...Curious to know what happened after you added bacteria supplement ?


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

saALI said:


> Hi Larry...Curious to know what happened after you added bacteria supplement ?


The numbers jumped close to my lastest readings. I think maybe I did the water test too close (few hours) from adding the Quick Start. I'll post this mornings readings after I put the youngin's on the bus....


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

7 Oct, 2013 9:00am
I've been Obsessive Compulsive on these tests, even using a stop watch to ensure I'm getting readings exactly when instructed.

High pH Test = 7.4
Ammonia = .25ppm
Nitrite = .25ppm
Nitrate = 20ppm

Due to the high Ammonia and Nitrites, I conducted a 10gal WC making sure I was getting into the gravel, then I added 5ml API Stress Coat and 10ml API Quick Start
I'll wait 24 hours and run another water test.

If the Ammonia and Nitrite levels remain high, should I do another WC in a day or two or wait and see if the Nitrates come up?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I would actually do a 50% water change today to get the ammonia and nitrite down even lower. You want those parameters as low as possible since there are fish in the tank.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

8 Oct, 2013 8:30am

Low pH = 7.6
High pH=7.4
Amm = .25ppm
Nitrite = .25ppm
Nitrate = 30ppm? The color is so close between 20 and 40....

50% WC today? Or should I wait a day. I don't mind the work. I'm retired, so I'm home every day. How long do you think I'll have to do daily changes?


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

50% WC Complete... Will test again tomorrow morning...

When I do these big changes, aren't I pulling all the good stuff out too?


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Oh yeah.... I ordered the Dr. Tims One Time


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Test your water before adding Dr. Tims, and again 24 hours later. You should see a huge improvement, or a completely cycled tank.

When you do water changes, you do not remove any beneficial bacteria. It grows on surfaces, especially in your filter media. The only thing water changes remove on a cycled tank is nitrate.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Thanks Iggy....

I plan on doing another WT in the morning. What should I do if the Amm and Nitrite levels are still high?

In retrospect, I think the 50% WC helped. Their colors look awesome, and even the "snow globe" effect is reduced.

I'll continue to provide accurate data.

Thank you everyone!!!!!

Larry


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

If it were me, I'd let the Dr. Tim's do it's thing. As long as levels are not out of control, I wouldn't do a WC.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Whoa!! Huge Nitrite Spike
I did the 50% WC yesterday and added the API Products
Still waiting on Dr. Tims to arrive by mail.

pH=7.2-7.4
Amm=.25ppm
Nitrite=5.0ppm NOT A TYPO - (Very Purple) was at .5ppm yesterday before WC
Nitrate=0 was at 30ppm yesterday before WC

I think I'll have to do another WC today


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

That is a crazy nitrite spike. Sounds like your denitrifying bacteria have not had a chance to develop yet. Hopefully you get that dr. tim's soon!


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Yeah.... I freaked out and grabbed what I could find while I was out buying dog food at Pet Smart. I picked up the small bottle (100ml) of Tetra SafeSmart Plus. It said it is supposed to reduce ammonia and Nitrites. I didn't do a WC today. I'll test again tomorrow after the SafeSMart has 24hrs to work.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

You could use Seachem Prime to take care of your nitrite problem until Dr. Tim's shows. Just something to know for the future. Highly concentrated and cheaper than Tetra stuff.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Whew!!!
It looks like the Tetra Product stopped the Nitrite spike. Fish are colorful and look great. No fatalities or surface/dive behavior noticed. Dr. Tim's product supposed to get here today....

10 Oct, 2013 - 1:00pm
High pH = 7.2ish (Lighter tan than on card. Added 1tsp API pH-UP)
Amm = .25ppm
Nitrite = 0.0ppm (good news)
Ntrate = 30ish (color from 30-40 looks real close)

This brings up a question... Should I use the Dr. Tim's anyway when it gets here? It advertises that I cannot OD them on the stuff. Should I use it now, or save it in case the tank crashes again? Also, I think it's safe to assume 50% WC's are bad in my 55.

THANK YOU to everyone who has been helping me. I really appreciate everything!!!!!


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Since you're not cycled yet, and have been working hard toward keeping your fish alive, I would add the Dr. Tim's. Your tank will not crash unless you do something to kill off your bacteria, add a large bioload(large group of fish), or neglect to your filtration/maint.

What filtration do you have?

Check out the buffer articles on this site for raising your pH, but you most likely do not need to add anything at all. Either way, using the pH up product can be eliminated entirely. Do you know what your gH and kH is?

If the answers to my questions are in the previous pages, I apologize.


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## walzon1 (Jun 17, 2013)

Just saw your thread are you still getting the oxygen bubbles after raising the water level in the tank? since everyone jumped on the cycling/compatible problems I was wondering if your original question was solved or not.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Iggy.... I'll go ahead and use the Dr. Tims. I have the Penguin 350 and I'm not happy with it. The tiny particles are still there. Not as bad as originally shown on my videos in this thread, but still there. No more fish are going in. I'm going to leave the tank completely alone for 48 hours and see what happens.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

In a 55 gallon I would use a canister along side of your Penguin. Something that does 300-400 gph.

If you post your gH and kH we can determine if you need to buffer it at all. If you do need to buffer, baking soda and epsom salts can be used depending on what you're trying to buffer.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

CGLarry said:


> Iggy.... I'll go ahead and use the Dr. Tims. I have the Penguin 350 and I'm not happy with it. The tiny particles are still there. Not as bad as originally shown on my videos in this thread, but still there. No more fish are going in. I'm going to leave the tank completely alone for 48 hours and see what happens.


You could also add some fine filter floss to the HOB.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Good Morning,
Things are looking good again. Yesterdays test results after Dr. Tims and lights out for 2 days:
pH=7.2
Amm=.25
Nitrite=0
Nitrate=40

The pesky debris is still there from my very first post/video. I'm seriously thinking about tossing the Penguin 350. If I shut it off for an hour, the debris floats to the top and I shop vac it off using the water tension to hold it. I was looking at the product reviews for a new filter system. Suggestions are welcome......


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

If you go with a new filter, save the wheel and any sponges and cram them in your new filter. You don't want to toss out all that bacteria.

I suggest a canister as stated above and a reliable HOB, like AquaClear. Or two canisters. Either way your water will be crystal clear. Having 2 in case one fails is always a good idea.


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## walzon1 (Jun 17, 2013)

CGLarry said:


> The pesky debris is still there from my very first post/video. I'm seriously thinking about tossing the Penguin 350. If I shut it off for an hour, the debris floats to the top and I shop vac it off using the water tension to hold it. I was looking at the product reviews for a new filter system. Suggestions are welcome......


The fact that the debris is floating tells me it's not debris. Dirt even fine silt will sink to the bottom and not float, it's your filter that is causing it. The penguin series with the bio wheel will leave microbubbles in the tank this is normal.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Yeah.... I've researched a little and it looks like I'm going to pick up the Fluval C4. It got good reviews here. I just really want clear water. All the fish are doing great. My live plants are taking off pretty good also. Thank you everyone!!!

PetMountain has the Fluval C4 at 50% off


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Nice. I would buy two then, especially if you're ditching the Penguin.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

I looks like things are nice and stable. I've learned a lot. Here are today's test results:
pH=7.2
Amm=.25
Nitrite=0
Nitrate=40
Now... should I do PWC's regularly, or when the Amm and Nitrite levels indicate? I intend on weekly WT's. What is a good schedule to keep? It's a 55 gal tank so my PWC's will only be about 10 gals each time.

Iggy, I ordered one C4 yesterday and plan on running that alongside the Penguin until it gets a bacteria load (2 weeks?). Then I'll order the second one to replace the 350. Does this sound like a good plan of attack.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I would continue doing water changes to keep nitrates under 20 ppm. Try testing your tank water and some tap/bottled water at the same time. I have a tough time differentiating between 0 and .25. Maybe you're cycled already? Dr Tims works fast.

I would run the new C4 alongside the Penguin for at least a month, then cram whatever media you can from the Penguin into the second new filter.


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## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

Any chance you are not using 100% synthetic for floss? Kind of looks like cotton.


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

First C4 installed today. Dang that thing is way nicer than then Penguin. I'm going to run them in sync for a while. There's not a lot of room to stick stuff from the penguin in there.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

You can always save the Penguin media in a mesh bag, and keep it in the tank for awhile. It will be an eyesore, but will still help keep your tank cycled while the new filters catch up.

Did you try testing for ammonia again, or tank against some bottled water? Just wondering what the verdict was...


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Yeah.... Tap water test yellow. The .25 reading I'm getting from the tank is very slight. There's the slightest green hue which is why I didn't record a zero.


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## RangerRift (Aug 10, 2013)

I usually do a weekly water test, and then, based on my nitrAte readings (my ammo and nitrItes are usually 0 - to minimal reading), I'll do a 10 - 25% WC. I've done up to a 75% WC with no ill effects (persistent nitrAte issue; ended up using this method http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/nitratecontrol/ss/nitratecontrol_5.htm once a week for 2 weeks to solve it).

What's your GH/KH? That pH is somewhat low for Africans; you might consider putting some "Texas holey rock"/ honeycomb limestone in there to help buffer a bit.

Keep us posted on the debris sitch, and thanks for joining our community!


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

Well.... I read back through the posts and saw someone else had issues with the Penguin Bio-Wheels. I took the wheels off an noticed an almost immediate change in the amount of micro bubbles. There is still plenty of micro debris. I'm going to go ahead and install the second C4 and run all three filters. This should allow more filtration and allow the C4's time to load up.

I dont know what my GH/KH is. How do I test for that?


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## CGLarry (Oct 4, 2013)

OK now I know what it is. Why is it important? I'll grab a kit....


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

> Why is it important?


You are buffering your water. I'm guessing you're doing that since your pH is 7.2. While it is not ideal, it can certainly work. Knowing the gH(general) and kH(carbonate) will help determine if you need to buffer your water at all. Get the test kit.

An explanation...
http://www.badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article94.html


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