# modifying the marineland penguin 200



## TKC747 (Dec 5, 2008)

I have read the following articles in the library

1.http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/power_filter_tricks_iv.php (penguin 350)
2.http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/power_filter_tricks_v.php (emperor 400)

Has anyone tried to adapt these methods too the Penguin 200? This power filter has only one biowheel and no media insert, just two slots to put in filter cartridge size c. I was thinking of putting matrix bio-stuff  don't recall the actual name...inside the two cartridges and squeezing in two airstones towards the back of the filter. Do you think it would be better to put one airstone in between the two cartridges and one behind the last one? Any ideas would be appreciated

Thanks in advance


----------



## TKC747 (Dec 5, 2008)

I guess I'll have to hijack my own thread:

Any penguin 200 users out there? How has it worked for you and what tank size do you use it for? I'll settle for an answer to that...


----------



## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I have no experience with the Penquin but can comment on the Emporer mod. I think there is a lot of experimental work done but I wonder about the effect on filters. Do we know that it works? I will give the fellow "A" for effort but until I see more reason to believe it works, I will not make this mod. Is there any reason to think he is right other than he says he is? I think he has missed a point on the airflow through the media. It is my understanding that the reason for airflow up through the old plastic box filter was to carry oxygen laden water through the filter. The air was the transport system not the fact that there was air moving through. With this mod it seems that Marineland had water moving through the media replaced by air moving through. Is that better? Or does the air rising effect the water moving through in such a way that less bio filtering is done? Any tests, data or even real good experience to verify that it is an improvement? The pre-filter will be a place to colonize but at the expense of much greater maintenance and a loss of filter flow. To me this mod is PIA and may reduce the filtering. I will have to go with the designers at Marineland knowing more until I see more about the person making the mod and the results he is getting.


----------



## TKC747 (Dec 5, 2008)

you have some good points but with the penguin 200, a prefilter will be mandatory if I can't get some mesh fabric because I will have fry in that tank...and also, if I use two right size cartridges, unlike the emperor 400 which says to actually drill a hole in the media container, I will only have sacrificied two dead cartridges plus the expense of airstones, a pump, tubing and seachem matrix. If it does work, I think over the long haul, I will be saving money as I don't have to buy the cartridges...The interesting thing about the media containers is that the picture on the outside of the emperor 400 (I have both), it is filled with activated carbon. Seachem suggests that matrix will work but not as well in a power filter. It could be due to high flow rates in proportion to surface area of the matrix.

Thank you for your helpful thoughts on the air flow replacing water flow, but I think its worth a shot to experiment as I will only be sacrificing two dead c cartridges. I am not thinking up ways to test effectiveness in the penguin 200 and I will ask about those with experience in the emperor 400 :thumb:


----------



## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

If you are looking for a way to keep fry from blundering around and entering the filter I use fine mesh from a fabric shop. Costs like 69 cents a square yard. If your fry are of a size age that the filter might suck them in then the sponge is a winner. My fry are in tanks with very little suction on the filters, so not a factor. When they are in the main tank they are large enough to swim away fron the suction (as well as hungry mouths) :roll:


----------



## Stickzula (Sep 14, 2007)

I did a write up on this a while back. I basically took 2 old cartridges and sandwiched them together with the marineland nitrite media in the middle. This will work with any media small enough to fit in the original cartridges. I did not notice a real difference in bio capacity. I added an air stone as well and again didn't see any significant advantage.

What I do now is take the large 6x9 scotch brite pads and cut them to fit in the media slots. They make great mechanical filters. I rinse mine every water change, but you could let it go for about 2 weeks without a significan decrease in flow; depending on the waste load. I have used the same pads for 6 months now, but if you wanted to throw them out rather than rinsing them it would still be way cheaper than buying the rite-size OEM cartridges.

I don't see a need to use carbon regularly so I don't unless it is needed to remove odor, color, meds, or the like. Should you choose to use carbon, you could sandwich it between 2 old cartridges and go with it. There is also a reusable media basket that you can get for that fits rite-size C filters. I bought some that were sold for a 350, but used them in a 200.

Here's the link to my write up http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=165531

Hope it helps.


----------



## Stickzula (Sep 14, 2007)

Forgot to add that I use an open cell foam block as a pre filter. I got a large block of it from Big Al's and cut smaller blocks out of it. Then just slit it in the middle and stuck the strainer on it. I use sponge pre-filters on most of my tanks just because it keeps the water cleaner. Again, I rinse the prefilter every water change. If you let it go more than about 1.5 weeks there is a noticeable decrease in flow.


----------



## TKC747 (Dec 5, 2008)

Does a prefilter on the marineland power filters

(penguin 200) (emperor400)

really reduce flow by a signifcant factor? Any thoughts? (from others, do you agree with *Stickzula* with the prefilter you have chosen)

Thanks in advance, and thanks *Stickzula* for pointing out your thread


----------



## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I don't think a prefilter is a totally bad idea. It would depend somewhat on what foam and how tightly it was applied for how much it might cut the flow. I'm somewhat prejudiced against them but it is more a function of my fish and how difficult it is too get behind a stump to change it on my filter. :wink: 
Foam is really cheap and a bit of experimenting with how to apply or tie it on might give you a really good deal. Sometimes the only way to find the true story for your own tank is to try it. And it may work for some time in your tank and not at other times as you will find you change things over time. 
One way to test foam for how much it might restrict flow is to hold it against your face and breathe through it. Air should pass easily, if not it will restrict flow.


----------



## Dewdrop (Nov 20, 2007)

I have 4 HOB filters that might be those mentioned (not sure of the makes/all black) one has 2 bio wheels, 2nd. one is like the first one (but could be different brand) & doesn't take bio wheels...the 3rd. one doesn't take the wheel either and only takes one filter cartridge (same size cartridge as the first two filters take)...the 4th. one is a real small one on a 10g. tank (no wheel, 1 carbon filled cartridge like the others take only smaller, and something the others don't have... a course sponge type thing...reminds me of a loofa.. that is used to hold the good bacteria.

I have the first one on a 29g. tank with N. brichardi and have a fine cell sponge over the intake because of fry. The sponge doesn't restrict the flow in my tank. One of the modifications I'm going to make on it is to add something to hold the bio load. I"ve been using polyester fiber fill along with the disposable carbon cartridges for a while now and really like it but considering making my own cartridge filler. I've tried the Scotch brite pads but got tiny micobubble thingys in the water.

The next 2 filters are on a 55g. tank (mainly mbuna) along with a Fluval canister filter & the last one is on a 10g.
Oh I also have an Aquaclear HOB on a 20g.L tank but I knew it wasn't the ones you were talking about.


----------

