# Canister filter or Sump?



## karmafish (Feb 26, 2012)

I have HOBs on all my tanks right now. but as I get deeper into the hobby (and larger tanks) I have decided to start converting over to canister filters or building sumps. I am under the impression I could build a sump to take the place of a filter all together. I would like some of your opinions on the subject. Do you have a sump and no filter? Do you use both? What is your ideal setup? Please share your thoughts and ideas.


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## rp-photo (Sep 22, 2011)

it depends on just how much work you want to do.. and the size of your tank

Sumps: several different ways of planing your filtration, through the use of media, live plants and others mediums, however often the cost of start is more..however the quality of filtration could very depending on your means of media..

Canister: offers fast and easy methods of filtration, often the GPH is a lot higher than that of Sump... however you do maintenance more often, often is the better bet...the general cost is more depending on your canister, however the quality of filtration is pretty standard

i believe that anything outside of a Saltwater Tank should not need a sump under 100gallons ....100gallons or more, you might want to look at sumps


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## swk (Mar 16, 2010)

A smartly designed custom sump will be all you ever need, but I usually run both. Sump for bio and a canister for increased mechanical filtration. If you plan your sump correctly, then the canister is unnecessary. I'm generally pretty lazy and just buy commercially available sumps


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## DIYhunter (Mar 3, 2011)

I like a sump for 75 gallons or larger and I won't put a sump in unless I can get 20% or more of the tank water volume added. On my current sump I can go 15 days without having to top off water, I don't, but I can. This makes going out of town a lot easier and why I don't like those evaporation accelerators like the trickle/wet-dry filter.

_*Sump Benefits*_
You have more water, and dilution is the solution for breaking down fish waste (but that's what water changes are for).

The water to be filtered is extracted from the surface which is where your proteins rise (they make surface skimmers for canisters).

You add more surface area for oxygen/gas exchange (just add power heads or air pumps).

The sump is handy for doing water changes, hiding the heater (could just use an in-line), and you can actually see how dirty your filter is (could just watch the output water flow of your canister).

You can build a sump better than most canisters for the same $ (that's why I run a sump).

_*A brief comparison*_
The FX5 holds 1.5 gallons of media (sold separately), flows at 925 gph, is rated for aquariums up to 400 gallons and cost $200-$250 online.

Let's say the common denominator is the 400 gallon tank and I want to build sump for $200-$250. Following my own rule of 20% tank volume that's 80 gallons we need to find. Oh look, there's a 75 gallon on CL for $60. We need a pump, so for $50 online, we can pick one up rated over 1500 gph at a 6 foot head height. My tank isn't reef ready; so a quick search and I find an overflow box rated at 1600 gph for $75. Now I need some dividers and silicone from the hardware store to flow the water through the sump the way I want and a 4'x2' sheet of acrylic runs $25, plus the silicone $7, and the vinyl tubing that's another $15. Boy this stuff adds up quick to $232. 
So I run my dividers taking up half the sump for pre-filters, media, and polishing pads. Let's cut it short and say that's 20 gallons of space for media, our actual flow ended up being 1200 gph, and we are still rated for a 400 gallon tank.

This is the first stage of my 50 gallon sump on my 125








And the second part; just open water and a heater









Adding this sump gave me an additional 30% water volume, holds 15 gallons of media, flows at 700 gph, and is rated for aquariums up to :-? but more than 125. My total cost was patience and about $100.

I think filter choices are all about knowing what the problems are before they arise and preventing them. They all work, just how much attention they require and knowing where to check for problems is the key. Since you're most likely stocking cichlids and most come with a quarrelsome nature, they may knock out your heater, overflow box, and any other add-ons not held securely. This is one reason I like the canister filter accompanied with an in-line heater. Also, filter choice has a lot to do with what you want to stock. For a tank of Discus I'd run a sump. If I wanted school of Oscars, I'd be sure my water changing set up was super easy to use, and filter maintenance was quick. The subject of which filter is kind of like Ford, Dodge or Chevy. I usually avoid the topic but could resist today.


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## karmafish (Feb 26, 2012)

brilliant set up DIY hunter. I am currently piecing together a 115 gal tank. and doing the whole DIY approach. I wanna create the best set up I can for as little as possible. (not cause Im poor, just for bragging rights)  I already picked up the aquarium for 100 bucks and I am about to start the construction of they stand. I was thinking of building a sump using a 35gal. aquarium and seeing your set up convinces me that its definitely the way to go.


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## DIYhunter (Mar 3, 2011)

This is how my sump flows; from right to left. The water flows into a few inches of poly fill, and then I made a drip plate with 3/8" holes to help divert the water evenly, a few more inches and a second drip plate. On to the media chambers which holds 12 gallons of bio-balls. The water then flows evenly from the bottom across the heater and hits the stubby divider; which I call my backstop. This is where all the muck collects and I just siphon it off during water changes. My pump chamber remains free of build up with this design.

I do use a pre-filter on my overflow box and one on the sump's return pump. Each divider I installed has a 1" overflow space at the top, just in case the poly-fill gets clogged. My return line is a spray bar. Also, sumps collect a surface film since the water remains fairly stagnant at the surface so I added a lid and voila' no more film.

I do agree with _rp-photo_ and _swk_; that sumps just aren't needed and with cichlids depending on your stock you will need some type of supplemental filtration to remove all those floaties. Sumps definitely are not good mechanical filters. But I sure do like the benefits of having one. 8)


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## Reboot530 (Mar 9, 2018)

Hey I also need some assistance on Sumps or Canister filters. I have a 125 gallon fresh water Africian Cichlid tank. I have a fuval fx6 canister filter but want something easier to maintain. 
I heard that the sumps are better a easier to maintain that canister filters. 
Also What media do I use in the filter? I have sponges and biomax then I use this media called Boyd Enterprises ABE16745 Chemipure Elite Grande for Aquarium,

It cost like $56 and want something that is cheaper and is better for my tank. Pease send me any tip. I am not handy so I need to find out where to buy these sumps.

Thanks Aaron


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