# How do I make this into an Overflow system?



## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Ok.. I'm starting to assume that they don't make an overflow box with a gap of 4 inches or bigger... so anyhoo. My outtake flow comes out of the back center top of my tank. It's already drilled like that.

Here is the front how the water comes into the tank right now.










This is what the back of the tank looks like and the tube coming out the back that goes down below. Remember this is the return tube into the tank.










Now is there a way that this could work in my favor and become an overflow into a sump? Sorry for the stupid question. I'm ignorant on building and crafting stuff. Ignorant I tell you. But ya. What could I do to make that become and overflow, if that's possible at all. It could be my solution to no overflow box. Which is my thread here I started but nobody has respond to. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=300666

Thanks for the time to answer.


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## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

Assuming the hole in your tank is large enough to accomodate the flow rate you desire. Use the drilled hole as the overflow. Let your returns hang over the tank edge. Even though the hole in your tank is the return, it does not have to be the return.

How does water exit your tank right now?

Joe


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Thanks for getting back to me. Right now there are two drains slots on each side of the back of the tank that make a Field Goal the actual bars look. Then it goes down to one tube that my dying pump, a Little Giant 3-MDQ-SC, which is 700gph, pumps into two NuClear fitlters.. .and then that goes through some piping back to the top of the tank. I want to stop using the pump and those filters.. get a FX6 and then make that hole an overflow type of connection to get a little sump action going too. Here are my filters.. they're a *************** to clean without getting water spilled.










Ya.. this is on a 140.


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## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

It seems like you are already set to install a sump system. Your pump is on the front end of your system now. Just let your "field goal" setup gravity drain into the top of a wet/dry , refugium or trickle filter sump system. Put your pump after the water has traveled through the filter media (the back end of the system) and return to the tank using the same return you currently employ.

I will say the filters you have look like a nice setup, basically they are canister filters hooked up in series, but they need to have 360 degree access and elevated a bit for ease of maintenance instead of under your tank.

Joe


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

That's a good idea. I didn't even think about letting the drains be the out flow sump style. But what about if the power goes out? There is a ball valve right under the field goal connection... I guess I could shut that off, but if I'm not home or sleeping or something and power goes out, won't that drain my tank?

Here's a different picture of what it looks like going on down there. Thanks again for taking the time to comment.


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## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

From this picture it appears that your drains are in the bottom of your tank. If this is the case, you will need to install bulkheads and standpipes for the overflow. The height of the standpipes will be at the water level you want to maintain in your aquarium. If the power goes out, water will only drain out to the top of the standpipes (make sure they are the same height). There should be bulkheads already installed in the bottom of your tank; if they are threaded so you can screw a pipe into them from the inside (make sure you do not disturb the seal between the current bulkheads and the glass or it may start to leak) of your tank, you should be able to use teflon tape to create a watertight seal between the standpipe and the bulkhead (if the seal is not watertight, it will still drain as you described, just one drop at a time"). Up to this point you can isolate your tank by closing your drain and return ball valves. If the bulkhead is not threaded and you need to glue the standpipes into place or there is no provision in the design of the bulkhead to create a watertight seal for the standpipes, then I think I have bad news: You will have to empty your aquarium, dry the surfaces you need to glue, or replace the bulkheads. Ther are You Tube videos that you can follow step by step for installing or replacing bulkheads.

I have to ask. Are you sure you want to do this? I do not see any chemical filtration in your system, so I would not think you would have to clean your filters more often than yearly. Whoever set this up put valves so any part that needs to be replaced can be isolated and easily changed. A little water on the floor once a year seem to be a small price for this system. I am not questioning your desire to make the change, it is just I am an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", kind of person. 

Good luck.
Joe


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Ya.. I'm not going to go that hardcore with it. My little giant pump is probably close to 10 years old and it's going. The two nuclear filters are a *************** to clean and I'm getting water on the bottom of the stand and now the bottom of the stand is all puffy from water getting there. Not worried it's just a small spot and it's the bass part of stand... but ya. If you hit the link on my first post in this thread.. you'll see why I have a problem for using a hang on the back overflow box. My acrylic tank is too think on top for one. Meh.... we'll see what happens. Ya.. not going to go the pipe route because that will just mess up rock placements and all that other jazz. I'm probably just going to go Fluval FX6 for now with my setup I have going.. .and then down the road I guess get a new Little Giant Pump. But I'd really like a nice sump going like my saltwater 60 gallon has going. Just a simple over the back hang on tank style. Oh well. I thank you much for your input. Check that link in my first post.. you'll see what I mean with the thickness.


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## BratmanXj (Feb 11, 2013)

I think you might want to put up a few more "wide" shots of the current tank and filter setup. I think Joe really has it nailed down, but want photos to verify the bulkheads on the bottom of the tank. You mention having to move rock to accommodate the stand pipes. It appears as thought you have bulk heads in the bottom of the tank, is there a strainer or pipe attached to keep fish out of your filter? If so, the stand pipes would take up about the same area. His directions about the stand pipe are far more stable/fail-safe than using a hang-on-back overflow. Attach your sump return to a check-valve and then the bulkhead on the back of the tank.


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Thanks for the info.. I'll take some better pics of everything tonight after work. There are little covers that are over the drains on the bottom of my tank. Little coned shaped strainers. I'd be better off just making my own overflow box. My acrylic tank is 4 inches thick though on the top.. that's why it doesn't fit a normal overflow box.


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Here took a couple pics before I have to hit the shower and head off to work... this is what it looks like in the tank and under.

This is inside... you can see the cap on it.










This is under...


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## BratmanXj (Feb 11, 2013)

To reiterate my last comment...Your tank is already set up for an overflow with a stand pipe. There is no need to build an overflow box, and overflow boxes could possibly break siphon. Forgive the crude sketch as I'm not at my computer...


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Ya.. I see what you're saying. So by the looks of it ( i am ignorant when it comes to building.. i blame having no dad around growing up.. ha!) but seriously.. so does mine look like all I would have to do is screw the pipes in.. and bam.. done with that part of the hook up? Thanks for the drawing. I can understand that. Looks like it would work great... but ya.. if they're screw ins.. is that all it would be to it hooking up the pipes? Just screw them in? No need for glue and all that jazz? I'd have to take out my other filters and the rest of the piping to fit a tub underneath.

Again.. thanks for the time taken to post and educate me from you guys. It's appreciated.


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## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

Screwing together bare PVC to bare PVC can be difficult, especially when wet. Some lubrication is necessary. Your best option is to have a plummer friend help you.  Teflon tape would be the best next option. Make sure the tape curls around the end of the threads (but don't close off the hole). Vasaline applied to the male end while it is dry, is good and your overflow will act as a skimmer so the tiny oil slick shouldn't be an issue and it won't last for long. Oleo should work too (from the sticks not the tubs).

Also make provisions to attach your strainers to your overflows.

Good luck.
Joe


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Hmm.. interesting. This will be a bit of a project if I go for it.. but I like the looks of it and think it's not too much of a pain.... only question is. I can cut off water flow with lot's of valves underneath. I'm assuming I can't do this with any water in the tank? I'd really not like to have to take all my fish and water out for it, but I'm guessing by the looks of it that's the only way it can be done.


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## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

You should have a valve (it is not in any picture, but the person who engineered this system seems to have installed everything you need, if no valve is there just pinch the rubber hose shut with a C-clamp or similar) between your last canister and the return port. If you close that valve and close the valve below the cross bar of your "goal posts", the entire filter system will be isolated and can be removed after draining the water from your Nu-Clear canisters (save the filter media for your new sump system, maybe someone can tell you the best way to keep your beneficial bacteria alive during transition, I have never done it). Leave those two valves in place when you remove the old filter(those are great places to have shut-off valves) then hook up the sump system. Use your Fluval canister (make sure you run the Fluval sufficiently to be fully cycled before you start the change over) to run your tank while you are making the modifications. Water will not be necessary; this can all be done without disrupting your tank.

Joe


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

joescaper1 said:


> You should have a valve (it is not in any picture, but the person who engineered this system seems to have installed everything you need, if no valve is there just pinch the rubber hose shut with a C-clamp or similar) between your last canister and the return port. If you close that valve and close the valve below the cross bar of your "goal posts", the entire filter system will be isolated and can be removed after draining the water from your Nu-Clear canisters (save the filter media for your new sump system, maybe someone can tell you the best way to keep your beneficial bacteria alive during transition, I have never done it). Leave those two valves in place when you remove the old filter(those are great places to have shut-off valves) then hook up the sump system. Use your Fluval canister (make sure you run the Fluval sufficiently to be fully cycled before you start the change over) to run your tank while you are making the modifications. Water will not be necessary; this can all be done without disrupting your tank.
> 
> Joe


Ya.. I have valves that shut off all over this bad boy. So you're saying I can make this happen without taking any water out of the tank. I'd just have to take my rocks out and then shut off stuff below and can add the stand pipes right in the water. You are right.. my valves shut off everything. There's a bunch of them. I'll get one more pic up later, but ya, I can shut off the valve under the first goal post... there's a shut off valve right before it goes to my pump.. another after and another after the UV filter I believe. This was originally a salt water tank and my rich buddy and his wife didn't want it anymore. SO back in 2010 or so they gave it to me.... FOR FREE! Thanks for your help. I'll get another pic up tonight.


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## miDnIghtEr20C (Aug 13, 2013)

Actually.. here, just took these shots real quick. First picture is whole setup.. everything you see red is a shut off valve... second pic is first part of system that comes from outlet down into the dry pump... that goes through the two filters... then third pic is where everything goes out and back to the top.

Thanks again for taking the time to post.


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