# Painting Tank Black? Rustoleum semi-gloss black?



## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

I am looking to paint the back of my 125G black. I have a bunch of Rustoleum semi-gloss black left over from touching up my stand. It is the Rustoleum Ultra Cover Painter Touch, latex paint. I was told it was oil based. Would this work well or do I need something else?

Thanks!


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## zimmy (Aug 13, 2010)

jnick said:


> It is the Rustoleum Ultra Cover Painter Touch, latex paint. I was told it was oil based.


Latex means it's water based. There's no such thing as oil based latex paint. In either case it'll be fine. The advantage of latex is that it dries MUCH faster.


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## slimbolen99 (Apr 28, 2006)

It'll work fine. Do a very light first coat. The second coat you can do a little heavier. After painting the outside of my tanks with that exact paint, the only thing I wish I would have changed was going to the "Matte Black".


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## bluenosebully6 (Oct 24, 2011)

I used krylon fusion gloss black came out awesome 150 gallon


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

slimbolen99 said:


> It'll work fine. Do a very light first coat. The second coat you can do a little heavier. After painting the outside of my tanks with that exact paint, the only thing I wish I would have changed was going to the "Matte Black".


Why the matte?


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

I am up to coat 6 right now and am still having the same problem: small "holes" where paint is not adhering. If I shine a light from one side through the other, the pain nearly looks like a deck screen as it's filled with little holes that have no paint on it.

The first day I put on four coats, 20 minutes apart. Thinking that I may have been taking paint off while I was putting it on during the extra coats, I waited 24 hours to dry and hit it with two more coats. This time, 3 hours apart. While it's a _bit_ better, there are still a ton of uncovered areas. Any thoughts on what I can do?

I've been using a Knit roller for the application. I'm tempted to convert to a sponge roller or an artists paint brush to try and fill in the gaps. I'd _really_ like to have the paint buttoned up by Friday, if possible.

Thanks!


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## TrashmanNYC (Dec 10, 2007)

I prefer flat black spray paint. Comes out better with no drips and seems more durable.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Tanks already in the house. No way to get it back outside at this point.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

Paintbrush? Smear the paint over those pinholes, sounds like there's dust or some other contaminant on the glass preventing the paint from adhering properly. Doesn't have to look pretty from the outside.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

I used rustoleum enamel black paint out of a gallon can, the oil based kind.

I had the same issue as you regarding the coats leaving places where light would shine through, but with a brush and the enamel paint I was able to get it all in 3 or 4 coats. Only difference is with the enamel paint, it says to wait to recoat for 24hrs, so those 3 or 4 coats were still 3 or 4 days. But the enamel paint cures very hard and chip resistant (important since I use aquaclears)

And yeah, areas where I painted over and then tried to touch up with more paint or to smooth runs or something even a few minutes later, I ended up removing more paint than I was putting on or smoothing.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Thanks guys! Going to get a brush today.


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## Mike_G (Nov 8, 2011)

Those little spots where the paint doesn't want to adhere are called "fisheyes" and are caused by grease or oil contamination- always clean the glass with a solvent that completely evaporates before painting (I generally use acetone and a rag) and then don't touch the clean surface with your fingers.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

I cleaned the entire thing with Stoner's Invisible glass and a microfiber cloth.


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## Mike_G (Nov 8, 2011)

jnick said:


> I cleaned the entire thing with Stoner's Invisible glass and a microfiber cloth.


Don't know about Stoner's Invisible Glass per se, but most glass cleaners contain surfactants which will resist paint if you don't get it completely cleaned off. Rubbing alcohol is no good either as it usually contains lanolin that will really screw things up for you.


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

Just get a roller. That is what I have done in the past with no issues. I used semi gloss black latex. Used a brush to cut in the edges and a small roller for the rest. Did 3 coats. I have done this with several tanks in the past.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

I've been using a knit roller and it's not working. There are way too many specs uncovered.


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## chmey (Apr 29, 2010)

I don't claim to be a rocket scientist, or even a fish scientist for that matter, but what I did was go to my local big box store and pick up a sheet or two of 1/8" rigid plastic. 
Cut it to a dimension that fit my tank. 
Sprayed one side black, another blue. 
IMPORTANT - lightly sand the plastic before spraying to rough it up. Paint adheres better. 
Just slide it behind the tank. Flip it to the new color when you get bored. 
Depending on how the tank is positioned on the stand, you should be able to adhere the plastic flat against the tank.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Just curious, did you create any type of clips to hold the plastic on the tank?


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## chmey (Apr 29, 2010)

No I didn't use any clips, but you can give either of these methods a try that work for me. 
You have a 125G. 
That means, there is a 1 7/8" trim strip on the top and bottom. 
The glass part that shows is roughly 17" high
This trim strip has a small ledge. 
Cut to the 17" and place on the trim strip edge. 
To hold it in place, on one end of the tank I use my HOB, which rests against it. 
On the other, my canister intake/outake tubes hold it in place.

If this doesn't work for you, then just cut it the full dimension of the tank and rest the bottom of the plastic on the stand. Same procedure to hold in place.


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