# HOB Filter mounted on tank SIDE?



## jerry11 (Aug 25, 2011)

Anybody ever do this or have suggestions? I would like to keep the convenience of a flip-up lid for tank access.

I'm working on plans for a 2nd tank. Would love a 120g wide (48x18x24) but unless I side mount the filter (either AC110 or AC70), I will have to go with a 90g.

Ideas?

EDIT: 
Guess I should explain more about what is in my head. Yes, I mean off the side of the tank instead of the back. I will also have a Eheim 2262 canister. I like the ease of access of a HOB for the polishing, etc... I don't expect to get into the 2262 often.

If the HOB actually is on the back, I need about 5" between the tank and the wall and that brings the tank too far out into walkway/usable space.

I would like to hang the AC110 on the side and HOPEFULLY still have some type of flip top lid on the tank...such as the VersaTop.


----------



## JimA (Nov 7, 2009)

I don't see why you couldn't. Most go in the back I believe just to be hidden?


----------



## Tadgo (Jul 31, 2011)

Why not build your own lid. You might have some dead spots and need a power head. What about a canister or a sump style? It's worth looking into.

edit: must have been typing while you edited.


----------



## football mom (Feb 19, 2006)

I've done that on my fry and grow out tanks before, easier access, but then they are not show tanks, either. Didn't really have any dead spots, but they weren't long tanks.


----------



## jerry11 (Aug 25, 2011)

They go in the back for two typical reasons I believe. One is to be hidden. The other is because the flip lids that I know of have the plastic strips that go along the back so you can cut them to fit your HOB, intakes, power cords, etc...

I'm handy enough but if anyone can explain to me how to modify a VersaTop lid, or similar OR make my own lid from scratch, I'm all ears! The VersaTop relies on the lip along the sides of the tank top for support. If I somehow cut the glass of the VersaTop shorter to give access for a side mounted HOB, there would be no support along that side for the top and it would just fall into the tank.


----------



## lucid_eye (Apr 12, 2009)

Easy fix silicone a one inch strip of glass where you want the versatop to end.


----------



## jerry11 (Aug 25, 2011)

lucid_eye said:


> Easy fix silicone a one inch strip of glass where you want the versatop to end.


I would need something... a cut piece of glass or plastic on the other side so instead of a strip, it would need to be a custom cut piece to keep the open areas to a minimum. I have cats!

Things keep getting more complex as I dig into the idea. i thought about having a piece of class made to bridge the tank front-to-back with the notch for the AC110 in the back side/corner. Then cut the one side of the VersaTop down to length so it rests on that custom glass piece.

BUT, then there is the light fixture that would typically have legs which mount on the sides of the tank. (I have a 3 bulb Catalina Aquarium light). Only way around that is to hang the light and I'm not sure I want to go there. Anybody have other suggestions or fixes?


----------



## irondan (Nov 22, 2007)

i have a pair of ac 110s on the ends of my 125. same reason, limited space. they work perfectly. lots of surface movement and good current. i see the plants in the middle of the tank moving from the current and the fish are all active, well coloured and healthy


----------



## jd lover (Mar 11, 2011)

Since the versatop has 2 section of the lid ( the back that's usually near the filters and the front that lifts up for feeding ) I think you can switch the 2 since normally the back is longer and just cut the glass to fit

[_______]
{}[___]{} [_____]= glass. {} = filter

Something like that?


----------



## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

In my case, I had a door on one side and my reserve water barrel on the other, making a HOB not work in the normal way. That left me building a simple frame top with the end pretty much open. This is a 20 but could be worked on larger much the same way. 
Side view










Top view. The lights are DIY as I wanted to plant this tank without any major expense.










Works well with no problems. Water flow might be the question on larger but powerheads fix that.


----------



## jerry11 (Aug 25, 2011)

That is one heck of a lid/light you built!


----------



## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Definitely off the beaten path but that is one big advantage of DIY. You can get something that fits the exact need you have rather than buying the next best you can find. It was my first serious attempt at a planted tank, so the lights were a way to play with lights and adjust to what I found I needed. There are so many answers for how much of what light you need that I gave up and decided to start and adjust as needed. This room has a bunch of tanks and almost every one has a different set of covers. Some work very well but I don't think any are perfect yet. Maybe the next one will be?


----------



## dangerstangdave (Jun 26, 2011)

ditch the hob and go with a powerhead with prefilter. they polish well and eliminate dead spots. best of all, you dont have to do any cutting.


----------



## jerry11 (Aug 25, 2011)

I like my ac110's too much. Easy acess to things like purigen, etc... Breaks the water surface nicely too. Plus, I use 2 sponges, purigen and biomedia with only one layer of filter pad or floss. I cut a bunch out of one sheet in about 5 minutes and those last a few months no big deal.

I uncovered my biggest obstacle last night... The WIFE! Very resistant to going from 90 gal to 125 gal so I may be working on a solution for nothing. We shall see.


----------



## dangerstangdave (Jun 26, 2011)

I meant no cutting your hood. but it was just an alternative. About your biggest obstacle, just remember, its easier to ask for forgiveness than to beg for permission.lol


----------



## jerry11 (Aug 25, 2011)

dangerstangdave said:


> I meant no cutting your hood. but it was just an alternative. About your biggest obstacle, just remember, its easier to ask for forgiveness than to beg for permission.lol


 :thumb:

EDIT: Well, I prevailed on the biggest obstacle. I came home, dragged the TV, stand and everything else out of the target corner. Then I went out to the garage and grabbed some big boxes and basically made a box the same size as the 120g-Wide tank and put it exactly in the worst-case position. That position being 5" off the back wall so the HOB can fit in the traditional position on the back of the tank. (If I side mount it, the tank can be moved back 3" closer to the back wall)

My 72g-Bow would be on the opposite side of the room on the same wall so I built a mock up of that tank too and put it in position. Then I explained the setup and brought in the boss. She agreed that it should work.

Then she asked if we could put it downstairs just in case it because intrusive after 6 months or so. (It won't) Basically she wanted an" emergency backup plan". I told her it was funny she mentioned that because if the situation became a problem, my emergency backup plan was to move HER to the basement! :dancing: :fish:

Now I just need to look into a couple things to make myself comfortable that my floor structure will hold a 120g tank w/o worries.

As for the light fixture legs vs. the side-mount HOB issue, I think it will only affect 1 leg on the 1 side and I'm may not be opposed to just grinding that leg down so that it sits on the outflow lip of the AC110. Not 100% sure of that yet but it's a thought.


----------

