# My 120G spung a leak AGAIN!!!!!!!!!



## beaker99 (Apr 15, 2007)

Hi All
I have a 120G tank which I bought new about five years ago. After about the second year it sprung a leak :x which I fixed. Then about a year later another leak. In all my tanks has leaked around the bottoms seals four times in five years. Has anyone else had this problem. could it be the depth of the tank? I kept 55G tanks for years without a single leak. Any input would be appreciated. :-? [/list]
Tanks.


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## tankhead (Aug 8, 2008)

The only thing that I can think of is to review the stand, leveling, etc.


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## clgkag (Mar 22, 2008)

Yeah, I agree with the above. If you are having recurring bottom leaks, it isn't being supported correctly somehow. Check your stand for level, end to end and front to back, and make sure the bottom of the tank is supported all the way around.


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## Toby_H (Apr 15, 2005)

I have a 4' x 2' x 2' 120 gal and it's never leaked... years ago I had a 4' x 1.5' @ 2.5' tall that never leaked... Height is not your problem...

I would suggest it is from one of two reasons... either, as suggested, there is uneven pressure being caused by your stand and this is breaking the seals (most likely)...

Or the first leak was due to poor manufacturering and the following leaks were due to improper resealing...

I would act as if both are causes and make improvements to both the stand and the resealing process...


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

As mentioned above the setting needs to be reviewed, but I would agree with Toby_H, that a proper reseal would not normally releak. If you have a leak a complete reseal is the only way to ensure a proper job.


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## beaker99 (Apr 15, 2007)

Thank you all for your advise. 
I used a level and checked the tank and it seems to be balanced on all sides. 
The last time I resealed my tank I cleaned out every bit of the old caulk. Cleaned all surface thoroughly with alcohol. Allowed to dry completely. And used almost an entire caulk gun of aquarium caulk I bought at the pest shop to reseal it. 
Iknow, I know, you can get a cheaper caulk at the hardware store. But I tried that with the reseal before this one with disaterous result. 
The funny thing about it is that the seal that just failed was done last summer almost a year ago. 
This time I think I will examine every inch of the glass on the bottom for cracks. I didn't see any last time, but who knows.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

I would try and determine where the leak is so you can examine it. By any chance was the caulking past the best before date? I have only used house brand caulking, and not had any problems. One thing I do, after I'm positive I have gotten off all the old silicone, is to get a new blade and go over it all again. It can be a tedious process, and when all is said and done, a misstep in the application and all is for naught. 
I would check your stand for flatness as well as level, although I think that your problem was with the application of/or the silicone itself. I hope you have better luck this time. Not every tank I have done was perfect the first time. Last year I had a 30 that leaked so I resealed. About 3 months later it started to leak worse than the first time. I removed the floating bottom and reinstalled it as well as resealed the entire tank. It has been about a year without any problem.


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## beaker99 (Apr 15, 2007)

I found the leaks, there were three. Scaped off all the caulk, which required three scrappings to get it all, and after removing all the old caulk. I washed all the edges three times with rubbing alocohol. allowed to completely dry for a day, and recaulked yesterday. Going to let the caulk cure for two days before putting water back in the tank. Then I will fill the tank and check for leaks bdfore I set it up again. 
Can anyone see any flaws in my procedure? 
Thanks


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## Isis24 (Dec 10, 2008)

You may need more than two days to let it cure. I siliconed my 25 6 months ago and put the silicone on nice and thick (wanted to make sure not a drop would ever escape again..lol). I let it cure 4 days, because even after 3 days, I would press on the silicone and it still felt mushy on the inside. The tank has been doing great since then.

Fill the tank a little at a time so that if it leaks, you know where it's coming from (not that it would make a difference, because you'd have to recaulk the whole thing again, but you could look and see what the problem was).


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## cichlidsandmore (Jul 14, 2009)

I spoke with several people about aquarium leaks. Moving a tank with extreme care is important. As we all may know, silicone becomes dryer, somewhat brittle, and shrinks over time. The life span for silicone glass tanks is about 20 years according to two major US tank manufactuers (All Glass and Tenecor).

Larger glass tanks can become very heavy. Taking a brief "time out" to get a more comfortable grip and leaning a tank back on an edge can over stress sealed joints. Like a wet paper bag, it wants to collapse. Look for any chipped glass along all edges. Chances are, it was rolled back and set on the edge.

When moving a large aquarium on the road, it was recommended to place it on thick cardboard layers or some type of substantial padding to absorb shock waves. Then , place that on top of single or double length pallets and gently snug down padded supporting straps.

Of course, set it down very gently to prevent sending shock waves through the silicone joints. Your "moving crew" has to understand this. Someone will hit the panic button and be dying to get a better grip.

Both resources stated once a fresh water tanks leaks, it's very difficult to get it resealed "permanently" because all the silicone is difficult to remove, and new silicone will not properly bond to any old silicone film. A silicone reseal often leaks within 6 months.

The seals on Acrylic tanks is stronger than the acrylic itself, lasts indefinately, they're lighter, but, scratch much easier.

Leveling is usually the final step in a move. A unlevel tank adds alot of pressure to seals over time. The stand has to be sustantially supported all along the bottom to best level a tank securely.

This is what the "pros" told me. I looked very carefully for chips along all edges before I bought a 180 All Glass. So far-so good.


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## beaker99 (Apr 15, 2007)

When the first leak occured in my 120g it was set up as a salt water, FOLR fish only live rock, tank. The first leak occured i think because I had a deep sand bed with either pistol or mantis shrimp digging through it. You may not think a shrimp could brack a seal on an aquarium,  but look up what these shrimp can do and it will change your mind.


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## cichlidsandmore (Jul 14, 2009)

I watched a couple videos on those 2 creatures and they can do some damage. It's possible they tore loose or lifted up the leading edge of silicone on your tank in a couple places.

That Mantis Shrimp could have starred in "Alien"! For shrimp, he unfortunately, looks like one (thus the name) although he's not a "correct" scientific shrimp. It's like a large underwater insect.

Good luck with your aquarium. It seems that something could completely remove old silicone for resealing.


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## beaker99 (Apr 15, 2007)

I've just recently resealed my tank with the caulk you find at your lfs. And it has leaked again. Has anyone used this waterfall sealant available at lowe's with success? Link Below: 
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... 8650-WFFS& lpage=none 
Thanks in advance for your input.

I went trought 5 razor blades scrapping and rescapping the old caulk out of this tank. I also completely rinsed all seam areas three times with rubbing alcohol. I also checked to make sure the tanks is level. And no the tank has not been moved since I put it where it is 5 years ago. I'm about to give and get rid of the tank, but my wife wants me to give it one more try. I hope this stuff works.
Thanks


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## cichlidsandmore (Jul 14, 2009)

That looks promising. Another possibility - Sherwin Williams has a oil primer guaranteed to stick to glass. The primer may stick to a well-prepped silicone area, too. Your Lowes product should stick to the primer.

If you figure out a way to reseal silicone tanks, you're on to something good.

That may possibly turn into a lightweight background formula, too. Prime the glass, lay shapes on the glass, spray the sealer over the shapes and glass, and apply a natural topcoat.

"Fills gaps
Ensures efficient water flow over rocks
Expandable black foam
Creates waterproof seal"


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## Chunkanese (Feb 4, 2011)

The glass is fine, its really about using enough silicone and cleaning the surface well enough. I would put a heavy load of silicone on. Just a question, has your tank bowed? Does it need a new brace? My idea is your tank is bowing once you put water in it and your springing a leak. Take a level to your glass and see if its stretching. Good luck, im sure you can fix it.


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