# Canister filter questions and some others for my new 180g



## Frank512 (Sep 23, 2014)

Hey everyone,

I just registered on here because I am about to start up my new 180 gallon Aquarium soon. I had fish when I was younger and always wanted to get back into the hobby so I finally pulled the trigger and I decided to go pretty big right out of the gate and avoid any urges to upgrade. I can pretty much be considered new to the hobby so I will probably have a lot of questions. I have yet to determine a stock list but I am looking to do a Mbuna tank for reference. For now I decided to go with just two SunSun hw-304b canisters since even with the cheaper filters this is easily in the mid $2k range by the time I have fish. (Bought a brand new tank and used stand/canopy). On to my first round of questions:

1. I opened up the filters yesterday and I just wanted to know if there is any rule of thumb when placing the input/outputs of the filters into the tank? I was planning to just place one input on the back of the tank on either end, with the two spray bars going along the back wall of the tank facing toward the surface, and I have two Aqueon 300w heaters which I suppose I would put in between the intake and spray bar. Is this ok or should it be done any differently? I got the Aqueon Versa Tops which have a plastic piece on the back to cut out where the equipment goes and I wanted to check before I cut this and place the glass tops.

2. As far as media for the filters, I got the blue course and white pad that fit in the sun sun tray's and I've ordered Seachem Matrix, and Purigen. What is the correct order I should set up the trays? Since the Purigen does not take up much room in the tray, should I put a pad on the bottom of the tray first, then the Purigen on top?

3. Is there anything I should have available as far as chemicals, and/or medications etc. that I wouldn't think of or know to keep on hand being new to the hobby? Right now all I have ordered is the API Master Test kit, and I will be using Seachem Safe as a dechlorinator.

Basically I am trying to learn and get as much as I can set up for now, but I can't really fill the tank at this point since I might have to travel for two weeks pretty soon due to work. I picked up three 50lb bags of pool filter sand from Leslie's Pool supply yesterday. I am trying to decide if I should just wait, or attempt to wash it now, let it dry and get it in the tank so I can set up the rocks and later just add the water. I don't want to put the moist sand in the tank and end up with a mold issue etc. That's basically where I am at for now. Thanks for reading and I appreciate any help and advice as I fumble my way through. :thumb:


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## keithslater (Sep 15, 2014)

This video is pretty good for helping you understand how a canister filter works and what type/where you should put your filter media -


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## johnnyblade (May 30, 2013)

Frank512 said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I just registered on here because I am about to start up my new 180 gallon Aquarium soon. I had fish when I was younger and always wanted to get back into the hobby so I finally pulled the trigger and I decided to go pretty big right out of the gate and avoid any urges to upgrade. I can pretty much be considered new to the hobby so I will probably have a lot of questions. I have yet to determine a stock list but I am looking to do a Mbuna tank for reference. For now I decided to go with just two SunSun hw-304b canisters since even with the cheaper filters this is easily in the mid $2k range by the time I have fish. (Bought a brand new tank and used stand/canopy). On to my first round of questions:
> 
> ...


welcome,

To Question #1: It does not matter where you place the input and output tubes. You could have them next to each other or on each side of the Aquarium.

Question#2: Depending on how your filter works top down or bottom up. I'm assuming this one works bottom up,so course pads first bottom tray,then second tray Seachem matrix,3rd tray ceramic rings or bio media,4th Tray or top tray Purigen and a fine filter pad.You're good to go.

Question#3: I use Prime as a water conditioner,as for medication i buy only if needed.

Start by cycling your water washing the sand and getting your rocks or whatever you will put inside ready. Until the water is cycled you can't do anything else. Hope this helps for now.


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## biglove (Jan 4, 2010)

As far as intake/outlet placement I have tried spray bars, deep water output, directional nozzles. Have finally settled with custom black painted PVC outlets towards the tanks' top right and left of center.

My intakes are about 1-2" above my sand in the back far right and left corners. I do crossover intake/output and always have. The left intake sends water to the output on the right and vice versa. Never read anywhere that this helps but in my mind it makes sense.

Running two Rena XP3s on my 240. From bottom to top they are filled with two pads each of Rena 30pp and 20pp foam in the lowest tray (rinse these every other cleaning and replace them twice/year). Middle tray is chock full of ceramic rings (have found Marineland ceramic rings online to be least expensive) but I will soon be phasing those out in favor of plastic pot scrubbers (for cost savings and hopefully improved water flow), the top tray has batting from Wal-Mart cut to fit. FAR less expensive than branded filter pads and great for polishing the water. No need for Seachem or charcoal.

I alternate cleaning the canister filters. One gets cleaned in Jan, April, July and October. The other in Feb, May, August and November. I flex the schedule based on water output and how dirty the canisters appear. Has been working well for me for years.

I do 30% water changes every 2-4 weeks depending on my schedule.

Bigger tanks are truly easier to maintain!

Also have a water line run directly into the tank for refills and a siphon system for draining via PVC that just involves turning two valves (based on fmueller's design).


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## Frank512 (Sep 23, 2014)

Thanks for the info. I thought about crossing the intake and output myself actually. I wish I could just get the whole tank set up right now but thanks to work I am in limbo for the time being. I had hoped to clean the sand, let it dry and put it in the tank for when I am ready but it was so windy today and I had planned on laying it out on an unused sealed tarp I had lying around, but once I opened the tarp I realized it wasn't exactly clean so I hosed it off and the water coming off it was kinda soapy for some reason so there went that idea. I may give it an attempt on Friday with just some plastic drop cloth. It will be warmer and not so windy then.


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## freelanderuk (Jun 26, 2014)

biglove said:


> As far as intake/outlet placement I have tried spray bars, deep water output, directional nozzles. Have finally settled with custom black painted PVC outlets towards the tanks' top right and left of center.
> 
> My intakes are about 1-2" above my sand in the back far right and left corners. I do crossover intake/output and always have. The left intake sends water to the output on the right and vice versa. Never read anywhere that this helps but in my mind it makes sense.


surely it would be better if you did left intake to left output and right intake to right output as then the length of your hose's would be the same and maximize your flow


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## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

I've had the best luck when setting the tank up so that the water circulates in a circular flow looking at the tank from the front. Across the top, down far side, along bottom and up near side. Putting both intakes at one end, and one outlet at same end as intakes pointing across tank, the other either in same place or across tank, pointing straight down.

Benefits of this sort of set up is all the detritus ends up at the end of the tank where the intakes are located, keeping the sand clean and limiting how much vacuuming is needed.


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## biglove (Jan 4, 2010)

Hose link shouldn't matter. Even if it did we are talking 2 extra feet. Hose diameter would matter though.

If you run 100GPM through a water hose, the output won't diminish if the hose is 5' long or 1000' feet long.



freelanderuk said:


> biglove said:
> 
> 
> > As far as intake/outlet placement I have tried spray bars, deep water output, directional nozzles. Have finally settled with custom black painted PVC outlets towards the tanks' top right and left of center.
> ...


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## freelanderuk (Jun 26, 2014)

was just going on what i had red about keeping your hose lengths the same , but understand what you are saying


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