# The problem with Canister Filters



## forum-guy (Aug 3, 2008)

Hey guys,

So I'm not new to this forum but this is the first post. Anyway, I had a personal opinion and I needed some criticism on the matter. I used to own a 55 gallon tank which was massively filtered by a canister. Now, in my time I have gone through 2 of these things. The Fluval and the Filstar XP. Both were unimpressive IMHO. I experienced a lot of problems with the Fluval (now it was some time ago so I am trying to recall) with the hose. It would regularly get clogged by all kinds of nasty stuff and you could never see if it was fully clean or not (since the hose is Not clear). The second filter, the Filstar XP, if I remember was a Huge hassle to take apart and clean out the medium (not to mention the disgusting build up on the canisters wall which occured with both my filters). I also remember developing a leak in the canister.

Do most canisters have these problems? Has anyone else shared my experienced, or perhaps had the Opposite affect. A lot of people say that canisters are easier to clean than HOB but I never knew that to be true. Give me your opinions!


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## Aquanist (Dec 29, 2007)

Hoses you can replace to whatever colour you wish.

To prevent leaking one should always remember to put white vaseline to all the rubber seals while opening the canister up for a cleaning.

Also - sounds like you had too small canisters to your tank if they clogged up too fast or you're massively over-feeding your fish. Hard to say as you didn't mention which filters you had in use.


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## zugbug (Dec 12, 2005)

thats unfortunate. I have 2 canisters a Marineland Magnum 350 Canister ( which alot of people on this forum hate) and a Fluval 404. I love them both. I can clean them both easily and they run quiet and keep the water clear. I would take a canister over an HOB any day.


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## lloyd (Aug 24, 2005)

hobs still rule in planted tanks and carnivore set ups that require moderate>serious mechanical screening. canisters need 'reduced flow' alerts (i use the spray bar as an indicator), otherwise, they are no better than ugf's. IMHO.


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## forum-guy (Aug 3, 2008)

I'll have to try Vaseline if I go with a canister filter again. Sounds like what I have to do with my paintball gun, Lol!


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## R-DUB (Jun 3, 2007)

I have to agree with Zugbug. I have had Mag 350's forever. Love them. Only drawback is the relatively small medium basket. I also use whiper 60's they are easy to clean. Pull the bag knock the whole thing in the trash can. Put on a new one. If you get a Mag get the quick disconnect valves makes it sooo easy. Good luck.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

+3 on the Mags. Honestly... I said it before and I will do so again, the only problems I see with Mags is negligence. ( I thought they came standard with quick release :-? :-? )

I also disagree with them being of lesser value to Carnivore tanks then HOB's. I don't understand that. My canisters mechanically filter way better then any HOB I have ever had as they don't allow any water to by pass over the media used to collect the particles like HOB's often did for me. Sometimes I put some media like Phosguard or something similar in the basket, line the inside of the basket with scotchbrite pads, then stuff the rest of the canister with poly-filler/filter floss and the water sparkles!!!!

I used to use Bio-Media like Matrix but I have taken it out recently do to a very small phosphate problem that I nipped in the but and I just decided not to put it back in.


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## moneygetter1 (Jan 8, 2006)

8) Guess it's a combination of preferance, convienence & necessity. Larger tanks require more powerful filtration. This usually occurs by way of canister (single or modular), fluidized bed or wet/dry-sump setup. Some choose to combine single cans w/ hobs ect. I never had a problem with my Fluval404 beyond replacing the impeller in 5yrs. Recently retired to spare duty & upgraded to XP4 to run in combo w/ my XP3 & A/C110(500). This setup works well for me. "T"


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## F8LBITEva (Nov 9, 2007)

I used to be all about the HOB but after I went canister Im not looking back. Quiet,clear water, dont need servicing nearly as often.


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## BurgerKing (Jul 1, 2008)

not many people talk about the Eheim cannisters. I have the Eheim 2217 (plenty for my 75gal) and havent experienced a problem with it. The only thing that bothered me was how long it took to draw water into the cannister when i used it for the first time.

I dont know why nobody else has them but i love mine


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## lloyd (Aug 24, 2005)

JWerner2 said:


> I also disagree with them being of lesser value to Carnivore tanks then HOB's. I don't understand that. My canisters mechanically filter way better then any HOB I have ever had as they don't allow any water to by pass over the media used to collect the particles like HOB's often did for me.


here's a bit more detail as to why i posted my IME:
most canisters do have a bigger 'storage' capacity than any hob, but a hob's bypass volume is much easier to monitor daily. i prefer bypass, over reduced flow rates, as a keen indicator for due maintenance. my preferred hob is the aquaclear500. in a 18-20" deep tank, it would take a canister in the $200+ range, to match the turbidity level these $75. hobs are capable of.
also, carnivore waste tends to be more 'greasy', and foam is eventually impossible to clean 100% after extensive use. replacing hob foam is much more DIY friendly because they are simple cubes. (for example: i would not want to attempt to DIY the FX5's custom foam inserts with my scissor skills.) 
i can also clean my hobs with the same syphon i use for water changes. i simply remove the intake to avoid back syphon, unplug the unit, lift the sponge into a pail for cleaning elsewhere, then syphon out the hob's compartment. no heavy lifting. no need to use washer/dryer as workbench. and less time cleaning/water change.
i do like canisters...but hobs still have some unique characteristics that keep them useful in my fish room.  HTH.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

I disagree but to each his own :wink: . Mags cost 80$+ and are the easiest to Maintenance in canister filters and easily cover that depth.

I am quick to jump on cleaning them when I notice flow is slowing down and I generally make it part of my weekly routine regardless of flow. I myself would rather clean a canister when I notice slow flow than have it all back in the tank and chance it taking forever to get sucked back up into the filter after it was already once inside it to begin with. Its simple design makes it easy to utilize what ever you want for mechanical filtering inside the canister as well. 
I guess its all opinion.

I was looking at canisters the other day at a shop and I noticed a ton of them had significantly lower GPH ratings and were significantly more expensive!

I had Eheims once. I loved them but I hated taking them apart to clean them out and I had one break on me while doing so ( the handle thing ). I then replaced it and had my second do the same and just replaced that one with a HOT mag and never went back to Eheims. I honestly do love the way the filters work but I hate the cost and I hate cleaning them.


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## vfc (Feb 13, 2007)

I agree with the OP; canisters are a pain to clean. Because of the extra work and mess, I tend to let the crud sit for months in my canisters (defeating the purpose of reducing waste).

I have two 75G heavily stocked African Cichlid tanks. The one is filtered by a canister the other HOBs. I clean the HOBs 2 to 3 times more often than the canister; especially now in the summer where my fish tank maintenance takes a back seat to outside activities. With the HOBs, I can walk by the tank, see bypass, and spontaneously, lift the filter pads out and put in new ones; (no planning, no siphons and buckets of water, no lifting, no mess).

My other large (30" deep) tank had one canister completely clogged up last week. I didn't notice it because the spray bar is deep in the tank and I can't see when the flow rate is slowing down, even when changing water. I can't remember the last time I cleaned that canister.

If I had more room behind the large tank (fixed in-wall stand) I would switch over to multiple HOBs.


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## forum-guy (Aug 3, 2008)

I guess its the good ol' HOB vs. Canister argument here.

I've experienced most of the same results with canister's hassle to clean. I especially had trouble when I had to clean out the hoses that run from the tank to the filter! I think that was by far the Worst part (other than the leaks and water splashing everywhere).

On the flip side though!

I think canisters to pose a real advantage, which is filter media capacity! No one can argue that a capacitor can fill with more media than a HOB. Maybe that is why canister filters don't need the high flow rates that the HOB will experience (I could be wrong here, so please correct me if I am).

Decisions decisions. Hey, btw, with all the afore mentioned in mind. If I were to start a smaller 30 or 40 gallon tank (and I do want to fill it up with fish!) what should I be looking at. I just can't decide. Take note, it will be placed beside my bedside in my apartment.


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## vfc (Feb 13, 2007)

I have posted this before; what the world needs is a HOB-Canister hybrid. The new filter should have a easily accessed pre-filtering HOB and then a large canister packed primarily with bio-media.

I also argued about how the average guy leaves crud longer in a canister far longer than a HOB; contributing significantly to high nitrates. Each time I post, I get responses from folks who claim they take their canister filters apart every month and clean them. I think those guys are not the average fish keeper. If you own a house, do your own car repairs, are active outdoors, have other pets, and have kids, tank maintenance is just one of many, many things on the to-do list. Unfortunately many things on my to-do list never gets to the "done" stage.


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## zugbug (Dec 12, 2005)

vfc said:


> I have posted this before; what the world needs is a HOB-Canister hybrid. The new filter should have a easily accessed pre-filtering HOB and then a large canister packed primarily with bio-media.
> 
> I also argued about how the average guy leaves crud longer in a canister far longer than a HOB; contributing significantly to high nitrates. Each time I post, I get responses from folks who claim they take their canister filters apart every month and clean them. I think those guys are not the average fish keeper. If you own a house, do your own car repairs, are active outdoors, have other pets, and have kids, tank maintenance is just one of many, many things on the to-do list. Unfortunately many things on my to-do list never gets to the "done" stage.


good gosh. only thing that comes before my fish are the kids and wife everything else can wait :lol: and now the kids are college age that only leaves the wife........... and she works! :thumb: guess i'm probably the minority though.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

vfc said:


> I have posted this before; what the world needs is a HOB-Canister hybrid. The new filter should have a easily accessed pre-filtering HOB and then a large canister packed primarily with bio-media.
> 
> I also argued about how the average guy leaves crud longer in a canister far longer than a HOB; contributing significantly to high nitrates. Each time I post, I get responses from folks who claim they take their canister filters apart every month and clean them. I think those guys are not the average fish keeper. If you own a house, do your own car repairs, are active outdoors, have other pets, and have kids, tank maintenance is just one of many, many things on the to-do list. Unfortunately many things on my to-do list never gets to the "done" stage.


Umm would that be kind of like the HOT Magnum? :wink:

Also I may not own a house but I have 2 kids one just turned 2 the other day and one is turning 1 in September , other pets such as a Ferret 2 Bearded Dragons, a ton of Newts, other aquariums, own 2 cars (One is daily and one I do some custom stuff to as a another hobby 8) ) as well as work full time. I get 2 days out of the week off and I make one of them the day I do maintenance to my aquariums. Within that one day if my canisters need it I clean em.

Cleaning a canister filter does not require a PHD. Nor should it take any longer then 5-maybe 15 minutes to do  .

Its personal preference 100%. The only thing I don't like to see is when people don't understand that others have reasons why they make the choice they have and make it sound as if choosing either or is a matter of fact more than a decision to accommodate what they need.


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## forum-guy (Aug 3, 2008)

Would a mag on a 40 gallon tank be enough filtration? Does it provide efficient biological filtration for a cichlid tank?


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## zazz (Apr 5, 2008)

make sure that the hob can deal with all the thick glass bracing at the top of the big tanks...if that was the case i might be intrested.....so much easier than cansiters....patent pending!!



vfc said:


> I have posted this before; what the world needs is a HOB-Canister hybrid. The new filter should have a easily accessed pre-filtering HOB and then a large canister packed primarily with bio-media.
> 
> I also argued about how the average guy leaves crud longer in a canister far longer than a HOB; contributing significantly to high nitrates. Each time I post, I get responses from folks who claim they take their canister filters apart every month and clean them. I think those guys are not the average fish keeper. If you own a house, do your own car repairs, are active outdoors, have other pets, and have kids, tank maintenance is just one of many, many things on the to-do list. Unfortunately many things on my to-do list never gets to the "done" stage.


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## moneygetter1 (Jan 8, 2006)

> If you own a house, do your own car repairs, are active outdoors, have other pets, and have kids, tank maintenance is just one of many, many things on the to-do list. Unfortunately many things on my to-do list never gets to the "done" stage.


 :lol: :lol: :lol: Boy O Boy can you say that again for the 'cheap seats'!!?? Here's my trick though for the "To Do List" aka "Honey Do List". Everyone in this house knows the priority order of things. The pets have top billing, an asterisk if you will on the "List" ***. This is because of all the things that need doing, they are living creatures that cannot do for themselves. They, like infants, are totally at our mercy. They are Priority #1 & then the rest of the "List" in order annoyance (importance) :thumb: "T"


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## forum-guy (Aug 3, 2008)

forum-guy said:


> Would a mag on a 40 gallon tank be enough filtration? Does it provide efficient biological filtration for a cichlid tank?


REpost


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## Toby_H (Apr 15, 2005)

I believe a Magnum 350 canister would be enough filtration for a lightly stocked 40 gallon... if the tank is not overstocked, yes this will be ample for bio-filtration for Cichlids that are appropriate for a 40 gal tank.

...and no I'm not a lawyer


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## RyanR (Apr 29, 2008)

We got the Magnum 350 "Pro" (which comes with Bio-wheels) about a month ago. I'm loving it. :thumb:

Great mechanical and bio filtration. Kept our slightly overstocked 75 gallon tank as clear as ever all by itself for a few days after I forgot to plug the Emperor 400 back in. 

-Ryan


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## lloyd (Aug 24, 2005)

i find it interesting that all canister posts, drift to filtration adequacy for 40-75 gallon tanks, before it finally wins a majority of support. :lol:


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## barbarian206 (Apr 2, 2008)

ty for info aquanist on the white vasoline also *** had my fluval 304 for a year now hooked up to my 55 gallon and had no probloms with it and now i hooked up a hob whisper 60 for added filtration so i can add more fish :fish: :fish: :fish: :fish:


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## Dewdrop (Nov 20, 2007)

I had 2 HOB filters, one with bio wheels, on my 55g. tank and they did fine. They are easy, I like that, although I do get gunk from them in the tank when I change the filter pads. I read in this thread the trick to avoiding that is to sypon out the "box" (for lack of better word) so I will be trying that. Thanks!

Then I got a free used 29g. tank that came with a Fluval 304 that looked brand new or was cleaned up really really well. Anyway, I took the filter with bio wheels off the 55g. and put on the 29g. for instant cycle and hubby hooked up the Fluval304 to the 55g. tank. It's seems to be doing fine too but I don't know how to clean it. Maybe I'll pm JWerner2 for directions since he said it doesn't take a phd :wink: cause I have no clue how to go about it. I do know now (thanks to this thread too) to put vaseline on the gaskets when I do clean it though :wink: .


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## gordonrp (Mar 23, 2005)

I have 3 fluval 404/405s and one fluval fx5, no problems in 4 years.

forum-guy, for your hoses to be getting clogged it sounds like you are seriously over feeding? perhaps?

or you have a pleco and you are over feeding him? the more he is fed, the more he will poop.


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

I don't like the HOB filters. They always end up looking crappy with salt and they don't filter as well as canisters. If you are only concerned about performance I will say that switching media on an HOB is quick and easy. I have two fluval 304's that have been running problem free for years. I do clean monthly or 6 weeks out at the tops.


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## vadryn (Nov 6, 2006)

I like the mechanical filtering of HOB filters, but they are much noisier than cansiters, especially if you have biowheels. Lots of trickling and splashing noises, which I dont' care for.

I had AC110s and liked how well they filtered, but they had flaws in the design such as how high they would sit on a normal tank, causing a lot of noise from the water returning to the tank. I'd have to top off my tanks way too much to consider the maintainence on these as easy.

A sump is like a HOB and a Canister all in one, and given a choice, I'd go with a sump 99 out of 100.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Dewdrop said:


> Maybe I'll pm JWerner2 for directions since he said it doesn't take a phd :wink: cause I have no clue how to go about it.


Ha........ha! :x :lol: 
Honestly I dont remember much with the Fluvals mostly cause they never lasted for me.


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## lotsofish (Feb 28, 2008)

Most of my tanks have a canister and a HOB. The HOB saves maintenance on the canister. Its easy to slide cartridges in and out of an HOB. If your tank is highly stocked, you can change the cartridges every water change with little effort or less effort in a normally stocked tank-- every 3 weeks. If you provide good maintenance on the HOB, you shouldn't have to clean the canister for months at a time.

With my canister, if I see reduced flow, I know it needs cleaning but even then, I can just open the Eheim and replace the white pad. It will be fine until I have the time to do a water change and rinse all the media with water from the tank.

Its always good to have two sources of filtration since even the best brands can have problems. A second filter may mean life or death to your fish should one go out.


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

I have to disagree. Waiting for reduced flow or only cleaning every few months is not the way to go about having a canister. When waste collects in any kind of filter it is best to remove it relatively promptly. That waste will ultimately be liquefied and turned into nitrates. That method increases the bioload on the system and if you are good about watching your nitrates you will do a lot more water changes. I clean mine monthly but I should do it more.


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## Dewdrop (Nov 20, 2007)

tannable 75,
Do you mind telling me exactly how you go about cleaning your fluval 304s? I have a HOB and a fluval304 on my 55g.. I don't think I've had it quite a month yet and it's still doing a great job but will need to know how to do it soon and I don't have a clue.


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

I turn off the flow, then unplug and pop the quick-release tubes off. I take the whole filter to my utility sink. I pull out everything. The foam I spray with hot water and squeeze it out a few times. In one of my media trays I keep filter floss which I replace. If there is junk on the biomedia I rinse it off with tankwater. Lastly I reassemble it and fill it with a water from the sink with a little prime in it poured right into the open "in" port. Hook it back up, plug it in, then open the flow valve back to full.


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## lotsofish (Feb 28, 2008)

> I have to disagree. Waiting for reduced flow or only cleaning every few months is not the way to go about having a canister. When waste collects in any kind of filter it is best to remove it relatively promptly. That waste will ultimately be liquefied and turned into nitrates. That method increases the bioload on the system and if you are good about watching your nitrates you will do a lot more water changes. I clean mine monthly but I should do it more.


I didn't mean to imply that I wait for reduced flow to clean the canister but when things are hectic, I may not get to cleaning it as often as I should. I perform 25-30% weekly water changes and use a siphon to clean the substrate. This also takes a load off the filters. I also have plants in most of my tanks that take up nitrates. Sometimes after 3 months, I'll open a canister and find it doesn't even need cleaning.

The only tank that has gotten ahead of me on nitrates is my 90 gallon goldfish tank. I've had to increase their water change to 40-50% weekly. I have 5 large goldfish in this tank, its amazing the waste they put out. Also, it reflects how plants keep a tank healthy since I haven't been able to keep plants since the goldfish either eat them or tear them up.


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

If it is clean when you open it then you are overfiltering (which is not bad of course, except or your electric bill 8) ). A lot of folks I think only clean them quarterly or so when they are the ONLY filter in the system and I would suspect there is quite a buildup of garbage rotting in them.

I've always liked goldfish too, but have kept them in the pond out back for them to eat algae all day. I'd guess they're pretty messy inside a traditional tank. I gave up ponds while we have toddlers running around the yard but hope to put one into this house in a few years.


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## cichlidNub (Jan 11, 2008)

Let me add my 2 cents. I have a 75gl w/sand stocked with 30+ mbuna from 2in to 6in. I started with a AC500 and XP3. Had the AC500 for 3months before the impellar shaft need to be replaced. I had tried to use a prefilter over the intake but it clogged too quickly. So I decided to pick up a Eheim2028 for $250 with all media and install kits (sweet deal). I do 50% wc weekly and clean one canister every month. (Takes 5mins to clean one) I will never by a HOB again!


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## kornphlake (Feb 12, 2004)

-1 for using Vasoline on o-rings. Here's why, Vasoline is a petroleum product, that's right the same stuff in gasoline and motor oil. Sure it's safe to put on your baby's bottom, and it's used as an industrial lubricant in food processing plants where nothing else would be FDA approved, but it's still made from petroleum. The problem with using petroleum jelly on o-rings is that while your typical buna-n o-ring is made from a synthetic rubber which is petroleum resistant, there are other types of o-rings such as neoprene that are made from natural rubber, these are not resistant to petroleum. There usually isn't an easy way to distinguish between a natural rubber o-ring and a synthetic o-ring, the reccomended lubricant for either type of o-ring is not Vasoline, rather 100% silicone lubricant. You can find this kind of lubricant at your local auto parts store either as o-ring lube or if that's not available you can try asking for dielectric grease. Because 100% silicone lube is 100% silicone it's safe to use in your aquarium and will guarantee you aren't unintentionally destroying your o-rings.


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## Dewdrop (Nov 20, 2007)

tannable 75, 
Thank you so much for the directions on cleaning a canister filter. I copied it down on paper but I think I'll let hubby help me do it the first time :lol: . I'll read the directions to him as he does the work :wink: I'll watch closely though so I can do it on my own next time =D> . He hooked it up for me because I didn't have a clue about that either. I dunno how he knew how to do it because he'd never used one either but I guess he's more mechanical minded than I am :roll: . Thanks again. You made it sound not so awful hard and I sure appreciate it :thumb: .

P.S. He's showed me umpteen times how to cut up a deer ham into steaks but I can't seem to get the hang of it...unless he's not home  . Might be the same way with cleaning that canister filter. Hey, he enjoys looking at them too and but doesn't help with water changes or feeding much sooooo  .


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## nick a (Apr 9, 2004)

kornphlake,

Excellent point! (which many folks don't seem to understand) :thumb: Hope those folks are not adding vaseline on their latex condoms :lol:



> Therefore EHEIM has developed a water neutral spray for use with all makes of aquatic and pond filters and pumps, using a special *silicon*


A lot of folks forget about basic routine maint. on filters---then get pi$$ed when the filter 'fails'.
A good photo reference for starters of where to use the silicon:
http://www.eheim.com/base/eheim/pdf/en/Info_Pflegespray_GB0207.pdf

If you can't find any quality silicone lube locally, it's available at most of the major net sites:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9708

You'll note the reference there


> Aquarium-safe, *non-petroleum* lubricant for use on all O-rings


tannable75, I'm 100% with you all the way, until.....


> Lastly I reassemble it and fill it with a water from the sink


That's unnecessary--and not really beneficial. Take the newly cleaned, reassembled and *empty* can back to the tank. Reconnect to the QC and let the can refill on it's own. This will help push air bubbles in new media/trapped in cleaned foam etc... right out the spray bar (discharge) end. If you're doing filter maint. without a WC then just top off the tank's water level with dechlored water. If with a WC, wait until the refilled water level is up pretty high before opening up the QCs.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

I always fill mine up with water before I put it back on. It just don't seem to prime properly without doing so.

Also when doing it like this you get that annoying amount of trapped air that needs to work itself out over time or you need to tilt the canister till its all out and burp it. When doing it that way I also end up with fine bubbles *everywhere* for a few days. Not exactly coming from my canister the whole entire time but after the excess air is released from the can it clings to my back ground and plants and everything else and often finds its way back in to the can and builds up again till it needs burping a second time.

Its much better,... not exactly necessary,... but way less of a head ache in the end to just fill it while you are ahead of the game.

At least thats what I experienced with _all_ my *Magnums*.


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## nick a (Apr 9, 2004)

May work well for magnums? (I've not used any) but for others; 


> Place the blue motor housing back on the canister and secure it in place with the 4 clips. There should NOT be any water in the filter at this time. Do NOT fill the canister with water


from http://www.rena.net/reference-center/filters/cleaning-maintenance.aspx
Step 3 - h



> Return the filter to its original position. Insert the Aqua-Stop
> (I) into the Motor Housing (B) and push down the blue lever to lock the Aqua-Stop in
> place. Open the valves by pushing down the grey lever in order to let water flow to
> and from the canister


from page 6 of the '04 series manual @ 
http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/Fluval_Manual_082002.pdf


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

On my fluval, they only fill themselves if the output is above the water line. This isn't an option for one room where noise is a concern. A dash of prime and filling it with water brings the filter back online without any primetime


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## ryzilla (May 30, 2007)

I am a big fan of both HOB and canisters. One thing that many people do is buy the canisiter and HOB that is rated for their tank. ALWAYS go atleast one step up. I usually use an emperor 280 or a filstar xp2 on my 38g. I run a aquaclear 20 on my 2.5g hightech planted. I run a 501 turtle canister filter on my planted 5g shrimp tank, I run an emperor 280 on my 10g snail tank, and I also run an aquaclear 30 on a 10g longfin bristle nose pleco tank.

The key is always have high water turnover so to leave no section of the tank stagnant.


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## remarkosmoc (Oct 19, 2005)

Having a filter rated for less than you tank is a good idea, especially if you have some of the messier fishes. I don't think it is a necessity if you have the proper amount of fish and don't over feed, but over filtering is nice because if overstock or overfeed you aren't overwhelming the filter.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

I like those turtle canisters :lol: I run one on my kids 20g long with a sponge filter, lots of plants and some newts and the thing is a gorgeous tank.

I know I don't have the canister to blame for that but its still a cool idea.

I still don't understand the point of over filtering the water. First I think of the fact that "do all fish like that kind of current" then I notice how much better off my fish look in tanks that I keep clean by vacuuming and low flows like air driven sponge filters. The fins are always out and breathing just looks so much less stressful.

Then, not that I am ever that conscious seeing how I also have lots of Reptiles but I begin to think about the un-needed energy it wastes.

I know it helps keep the water clean but I really don't like watching my fish get tossed around while trying to keep the live brine I tossed in from going up the filter before there mouths.


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