# GH/KH testing confusion



## heyteacher (Jul 12, 2010)

I picked up a GH&KH water test today figuring it would be good to test our tap water before setting up my new tank.

I followed the directions exactly and both readings were off the chart!

I used 18 drops (19 for a more definite color change) for the KH test and 19 drops (20 for a more definite color change) for the GH test.

Does this mean that both of my readings are around 19??!!

Is this an okay level for Malawi Cichlids?

I have already purchased 60# of cichlid sand, 15# of crushed coral, and several tufa rocks.

I need a bit of guidance, please. :roll: 
Thanks!

P.S. If it makes any difference, the pH out of the tap is 7.4 or 7.6 --depending on if I use the high range pH test or the regular one.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

A reading of 18-19 for GH and KH for african rift lake cichlids is fine. I'd run with it. No need to buffer further, but really no harm in using the crushed coral if you want to. But, double check the readings just to be sure.


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## Rialb30 (Feb 25, 2010)

What is your tank PH?


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

*heyteacher*
congrats, sounds like you have liquid rock from one of those aquifers up there in the north...

I used to have the same up in Ontario Canada and even wild caught rift lake cichlids loved the water with that high of a KH and a pH of 7.6
:thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Sounds like good water for most African cichlids. Local water here runs 18-21 depending on what part of town. For more background, the water hardness will keep the PH from changing so easily. With low KH/GH you might have trouble with the PH slipping low if you added some items like driftwood. With the high readings you have you will be able to use most anythin you like. On the other hand, if you want to try fish that like a neutral PH (7.0) you may have a more difficult time changing your PH. PH does change somewhat from tap to being in the tank for a time but whether it is 7.4 or 7.6 is not at all critical as long as it stays stable. Like yourself, fish can adapt but not if they are run in and out on a cold day. 

This site has some good explanation I found handy:

http://www.freshwater-aquarium-fish.com ... mistry.htm


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## heyteacher (Jul 12, 2010)

Thanks for the quick replies everyone! :dancing:

Rialb30-


> What is your tank PH?


I haven't set this tank up yet. I was doing a tap water test first. The tap pH is 7.4/7.6. My other two freshwater aquariums (not cichlids) are at 8.4 and 8.2.

prov356-


> A reading of 18-19 for GH and KH for african rift lake cichlids is fine. I'd run with it. No need to buffer further, but really no harm in using the crushed coral if you want to. But, double check the readings just to be sure.


So you think using the cichlid sand, crushed coral, and tufa rock will be okay? I really like the look the tank will have with them, but I will change it if there is such a thing as GH/KH that is too high. What number should I be shooting for? I haven't found that anywhere.

Thanks for the help!


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> What number should I be shooting for? I haven't found that anywhere.


You won't drive it too high. I doubt anyone really knows what that is. Some articles may offer a limit, but unless there's evidence to back up the numbers, take it with a grain of salt. :wink: Stable pH is what you should be shooting for. KH is what will stabilize pH. When we speak of 'buffers' in this hobby, that's what we mean. It acts as a 'buffer' against a pH crash (sudden drop). GH has no effect on pH and does not buffer the water against a pH crash. KH and GH are commonly lumped, but better to associate KH with pH. Those two often go hand in hand.


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## heyteacher (Jul 12, 2010)

prov356,

Thanks for the mini lesson!! I'm trying to learn everything I can about this new hobby of mine. I appreciate your help! This pH/KH stuff is starting to make sense now.


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