# PC lighting, almost there just a few more ?s (actinic)



## Rift485 (Dec 3, 2004)

Ok thanks to a number of members here (especially number6) and the search function I think I am most of the way to going out and finding a power compact lighting setup for my soon to be planted tank.

I have a standard 55 gallon tank and will have a medium fish stocking level to include 6 juvy Geos, 10-15 neons, 4 rainbows, and a few plecs.

I am looking to get just the right amount of light on the tank and in the right spectrum so have deduced that I am looking at a 48" PC between 5500 and 6500k. I am looking to avoid a CO2 injector and fertilizers if possible.

I am thinking that a 2x65w setup will do but am curious about a 4x65 watt setup and here is why.

In a previous tank (non planted) I ran your standard 50/50 10,000/actinic flourescent light and it made my SA cichlid's colors truly pop. Now if I stuck with the 2x65w setup I understand that I would not be able to mimic that look with the 6500k bulbs so would thus pass up that as an option and go non actinic.

I am wondering though if I sprung for the 4x65 watt setup if there is any way to mimic a 50/50 look while still getting roughly the amount of light and quality of light needed to get good plant growth but not need a CO2 injector. I have seen 50/50 PC lights but the actinic is usually mated with a 10,000k so am worried this would introduce light in the wrong spectrum and screw it all up. Is there a way to get the 50/50 look while retaining the output of a 2x65w 6000k setup?


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

There are so many lighting options to choose from, there really should be a bulb combo for everyone. The trick is finding it.

If the 4 bulb light allows you to turn them off in pairs, then it becomes a no-brainer... get the 4 set. 
If all 4 come on and off together, then I still say get the 4 set as you can drop the photo period or add a break mid day to grow plants over algae. Your hunch is right though, and 4x 65W is too much light for no CO2 non stop... 50/50 bulbs are one option, or pure actinic even... by having one regular bulb and one full actinic, you end up with your own version of 50/50.

You can even diffuse the light to block some, while not messing too much with the photo period. 
The plastic light diffusers meant to cover shop lights are cheap and can block a good chunk of the light.

I think you're getting the hint right about now... my vote is buy the light capable of the most and consider ways of reducing light... easy to cut down, hard to crank it up if you become tempted at adding CO2 and getting higher light plants later! 
:thumb:


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

I would think the overlapping of the lights would play with the kelvin rating?

If not I agree that sounds like a ok idea.


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## Rift485 (Dec 3, 2004)

Alright that sounds good, I'll have to check out if you can turn half the lights off at once or not bc that will be a big determinant for me.

Werner that is one thing I didn't consider. I just assumed that the actinics wouldn't add too much "usable" light bc they aren't bright but they would be adding k's right? What k rating are most actinic lights?


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## ZeroSystem (Sep 4, 2005)

Rift485 said:


> What k rating are most actinic lights?


420 K I believe.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

420 is the Nanometeres. Nanometers and kelvins are two different things.

Here is some more info for you to better understand things......http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Lighting.html


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

Rift485 said:


> What k rating are most actinic lights?


 Since most Actinic lights have a massive spike in the blue, it tends to wreck the usefulness of the K rating of a bulb. I'm not sure how many manufacturers bother adding it to packages, and I'm not sure how much I'd use the K rating given the big blue spike.


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## ryzilla (May 30, 2007)

Forget the PC lighting. Go with a 2x54w t5ho. Do one bulb actinic and one bulb 5k - 10k. This gives you an even distribution of light across the entire tank. It also gives you the ability, if later you decide to do presurized CO2 and not have to upgrade your lights.

You are not going to be able to grow much in a 2x55w 50/50 bulbs except for crypts, ferns, anubias, and some stems that are not picky like hygros, ludwigias, and elodia. You wont get that nice lush growth in your stems but more of a leggy flimsier growth. You will still get attractive growth just not that of higher light with ferts and co2.

If you can get a 4x55 with switches then that is another option. This will also allow you to updrade your setup in the future to higher tech.


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## Rift485 (Dec 3, 2004)

Ok regarding the actinics. I am leaning toward the 4x65 setup. According to that article the actinic light IS usable by plants. My main objective here is to get enough light to grow plants well but not have to use CO2. If actinic light is usable by plants won't that push me more toward needing CO2 if coupled with 2 65w bulbs? I had assumed it would not since it was only blue light but that article seems to say it would.


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## Number6 (Mar 13, 2003)

Actinic bulbs can be somewhat useful for growing freshwater plants... the problem is, we know that there is less usable light from these lamps, but it's so hard to know how much less. 
So yup... even with using Actinic, CO2 levels in the aquarium should be monitored. You may find yourself having to give the plants a break mid-day of a few hours to let CO2 levels climb back up.


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## Rift485 (Dec 3, 2004)

Do they make timers where you can have the light on for a few hours in the morning, off for an hour mid day, then back on for the afternoon and off again for the night?

That may or may not be a "duh" question


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

I use ones like this.










I would post a link but this forum is funny on what links and photos get posted.


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## Rift485 (Dec 3, 2004)

JWerner2 said:


> I use ones like this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is that a Yes?


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## crotalusfan (Jun 21, 2008)

Yes. I don't know about the ones jwerner2 is using, but there are timers out there, that will turn on and off and on and off. Try wal-mart. :thumb:


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Rift485 said:


> JWerner2 said:
> 
> 
> > I use ones like this.
> ...


Yes.

If you would take a look at the timer :wink: you would see it has a bunch of nobs that get pressed in when you want the lights on.

Whale-Mart is where I got mine. Also the Coralife surge protector strips have timers and can be done the same way.


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## Rift485 (Dec 3, 2004)

Ok so now that I've narrowed down how much power I need it's time to look at brands and t5 vs PC. These are the ones I'm looking at in no particular order:

1. 
"C"
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquar...usa_nova_extreme_t5_high_output_ho_lunar.html

2.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...~idProduct~CU01153~idCategory~FILTFIT58U.html

3. 
"C"
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquar...escent_current-usa_orbit_sunpaq_fixtures.html

4.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+9654+12109&pcatid=12109

I'm not going to worry about the bulkier vs sleeker look or a couple of watts difference. I am just looking for opinions on which to buy and why from that list. I mean you're the experts right??? :lol: 

:thumb:


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## Rift485 (Dec 3, 2004)

I'm going to make this a new post...


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