# Correct Impeller for 2028 eheim pro 2?



## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

Does anyone know if the Professional 2 2028 Eheim cannister filter uses a 50 Hz impeller or the 60 Hz impeller? I've looked in my instructions manual and don't see it, and the PDF they sent me is a a little unclear about it...there are two part numbers. My guess is the 60Hz one but I'm hoping someone on here might know as I have to order one and Eheim is taking 3-4 days to respond to simple questions via email.

Thanks


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

If the filter model is made for the United States and uses 120V 60 Hz for power, you need the 60 Hz impeller.

This is the correct part #7656190. It's the one I use in my 2028 filter.


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

Actually the unit is from Europe, I have a step up transformer but I haven't been able to get it to run yet...it seems to be able to push water up to about 4 inches above the intake, but no further....I thought I might try replacing the impeller as it sat dry in the box for the last 3 years (but brand new in the box)....if that doesn't work I will just hook it up to a power head or install a small inline pump (depending on the noise level of the pump)...


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Well then you will need to use the 50 Hz impeller.


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## Jmanolinsky (Jun 4, 2010)

Do you have water in the tube coming from the tank into the filter. Most cannisters use the force of the water coming into the cannister from the tank above to help pump the filtered water out. All of the baskets and top are properly aligned with one another? As I stated in your other thread, I highly doubt you have a bad impeller.


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

sorry for the delay...out of town on vacation...yes I have water coming in the cannister...I can't even run it with no media or baskets in it at all, so nothing needs to be lined up. It will pump water a few inches above the intake (so I know it's not just gravity)...but any higher than that like near the waterline and it goes caput. Why is it so impossible to have a faulty impeller? Do you work for Eheim or something? This is about my 10th cannister filter and fifth Eheim so it's not like I haven't had to work out the kinks in one before.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Heres what you should do ... get the 50hz impeller then let us know how that worked out for you. :thumb:

If that does not get you good results try aligning everything properly again and eliminating any kinks or obstructions in the tubing.

or ...

Get the 60hz impellar and again let us know how that one worked out for you :wink:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Seems to be a lot of technical guessing when what you need to know is if the impeller is working. The 240V 50/60 HZ leaves some question but it seems if it were turning it should be moving water. If the water lines are all connected without leaks and the tubing is open, the water will syphon down to the filter and back up to the level of the tank water, then stop. Whether the impeller is moving or not, this should happen. Once you find this is working, the impeller needs to turn. If you can feel a slight steady vibration when it is plugged in, the impeller is turning.

IME-- the only defect of bad impellers other than broken, will be worn shafts or the little nub on the magnet part that grabs the blade portion. If this nub is worn or broken, you get no turning. If the shaft is worn, you get noise.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

You also might want to check the voltage since you are using a step up (or down?)transformer. 
I'm not familiar with converting 220V/50HZ to 120V/60HZ so you may want to look into this further.


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

I am using a step up transformer converting 120v to 240v....I used two different transformers including one that runs other European manufactured electronics perfectly, the voltage delivery is fine. I took it to a local LFS where one guy has been there 30 years...he took it apart and felt that the impeller was not seated properly under the clip...due to the rubber gasket coming loose that seats it in place. However he didn't have time to test it and said if I left it he would try it in the morning...he didn't have time and had his employee try it and it worked perfectly...for two minutes. He says that there is a slot that looks like something on the impeller should fit into...does anyone know what this slot is for? It is very small like maybe 1mm across and looks like a tab or somthing should fit in there off the round impeller?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Here are some pics of my 2028 impeller, sorry for the crud as I should have cleaned the parts before taking the pics.

This is the impeller assembled with the impeller shaft & one rubber bushing.










And this is a pic of the impeller without the vanes attached. I had removed them by slightly pinching together the slotted portion and the vanes slip off.










Was that the slot you were talking about?


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

One small defect that one might miss when looking at the impeller is the small ridge on the impeller shaft. I have found this ridge sometimes gets broken or worn down so that the black magnet portion may be turning but the blades will not turn when there is any water presure to work against. It is a bit different on different impellers but I'm guessing that is the ridge on the right side just above your fingers in the second photo. I normally expect to feel a small steady vibration when the impeller is turning but I can see that it might also feel the same if it were only the shaft turning but the blades setting still??


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Pfunmo, yes that ridge or projection you noted on the 2028 impeller is a 'stop' and if it's missing, the magnet portion of the impeller still turns but the vanes will not.

I remember reading somewhere that it was designed that way to allow for a 'soft' start when the filter was energized.

In order to verify that the impeller vanes are actually rotating, I will briefly energize the pump while looking at the impeller through the pump cover with a flashlight. That brief amount of time shouldn't cause any issues.

I have never seen a nick in an Eheim ceramic shaft. I'm sure it's possible but in my experience, I have only seen them cracked or in pieces.


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

Okay here is the empty hole without the impeller in it....clearly the slot to the side of the hole is visible.










Here is me holding the impeller unit and shaft...there is nothing attached to the shaft to fit into the slit on the side










Here is just the shaft...this is how it showed up, nothing attached to it, could they have forgotten the piece? Could it have just broken apart on the first start up?










And here is the unit assembled in the hole, again, nothing to go in the slot...I'm guessing thats why it starts wobbling and struggling to pump water after the first 30 seconds or so...










The guy at the LFS doesn't carry Eheim parts but has Fluval, and showed me and impeller shaft with a yellow plastic thing attached to it that would fit in a similar slot in a Fluval cannister filter. It was called a 'impeller shaft assembly'....do you think Eheim carries this part seperate and do you think they should and will send it to me for free?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

OK, now I see what slot you are talking about. That slot is a water channel that allows the impeller to stay lubricated with water and to keep it cool. Nothing is meant to be in that slot.

Check the bottom of the impeller well with a flashlight to see if there is a rubber bushing that centers the impeller shaft.

Also check the impeller cover to see if the 2nd rubber bushing is in place that centers the impeller shaft. If either of these are missing, the impeller won't rotate properly because the impeller shaft won't be vertical.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Deeda is totally correct except I think it is the top bushing you are missing. If there is not a rubber bushing top and bottom of the shaft, it will not run. When you power up the magnet will most likely just slam to the side of the hole. If it is new and you were shorted, they most likely will send a complete impeller assembly. Normally I find the rubber end pretty tight but it may be stuck in the hole in the cover. Make sure it is fit back on the shaft and you should run then. To me, your pictures indicate the top rubber is missing.


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

The rubber wasn't missing, just stuck in the cover and not on the shaft....with a flashlight I can see a rubber bushing on the bottom, and there is one on the top, with the shaft alone in the bottom bushing it feels a little wobbly, no way to check how it feels with both bushings in, but the blades turn, it makes noises and spurts water at varying velocities from then on all the while making noise. I'm pretty fed up with troubleshooting, and Eheim is very far from helpful, I will try to get them to send another one although honestly at this point I'm thinking of just buying a powerhead for the return.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Yes it sounds like you have all the pieces, parts for the impeller to operate properly. I'm just sorry I haven't been able to help you get it running.

Are there any local fish clubs near you that you might be able to get some assistance with the filter?


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

I may try one other LFS, I'm not a member of any clubs and I'd hate to walk in and join just because I have a problem....in the future I will try to look into it....

If the LFS thinks another impeller is a good option I may try it...I'm just worried that won't solve the issue.

Do you think there is more of a chance a powerhead would slip out of the tank than the spray bar would? I would hate to come home to a house full of water because I didn't use the proper set up.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

May I hassle you just a bit more to make sure we all understand? When it is on the tank and draw water down from the tank, it fills the canister and goes back up the second tube to the tank water level? This is just normal syphon action. It should do this and then just sit there until you power up. The impeller is turning and moving water but not enough to push it on into the tank? Very strange, very strange. Sounds like it should work. My only thought would be that there might be a problem with the freqency of the motor some way. Using the 50HZ on our 60HZ is not something I have done.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

My responses are in red.



eoconnor said:


> I may try one other LFS, I'm not a member of any clubs and I'd hate to walk in and join just because I have a problem....in the future I will try to look into it....
> 
> This would be a welcome project at the local clubs I belong to. I haven't found anyone not willing to tackle troubleshooting problems of anyone, regardless of whether or not they were a member.
> 
> ...


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

1) no, what I was saying was that the filter would push the water back up hill an additional six inches or so above the intake. That is not a siphon action...any more than six inches above the intake and the impeller starts rattling, so it would be fine if you didn't want to aerate with your spray bar and could run it halfway down the tank underwater...would probably be fine on the floor....yes it should be working but it's not...it's a 50hz model from europe running with a 50 hz impeller from europe...its getting 220 volts to supply the necessary voltage.

2) Eheim USA cannot get me a 50 hz replacement impeller

3) I was going to get a powerhead and run it through that instead of a spray bar, but have changed my mind and am buying a mag drive in line pump to power it instead...

Which should I go for...a 250 gph or 350 gph....I think I read that the 'output' flow for the 2028 is 197 gph...I'm wondering if the 250 pump would end up about the same?


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

eoconnor said:


> >snip<
> Which should I go for...a 250 gph or 350 gph....I think I read that the 'output' flow for the 2028 is 197 gph...I'm wondering if the 250 pump would end up about the same?


I did a bucket test with a 2028 and got ~250 gph with media and a 2026 got ~230 gph also with media. Might have been a wee bit more but at minimum it was 250 gph.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Okay. That does make it sound like a mismatch in the electronics part. The voltage is fairly simple to jack to the 220 but getting the 50 hz freqency matched is not something I've dealt with. Motor theory is not a big item with me but I do know the 50 HZ would be designed to spin at a different rate and it makes sense that it might run but just not as well if fed 60HZ. I might be ready to shop used filters in this case. Sometimes we just have to throw up our hands and cut our losses. Fairly big dollar bite, though.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

I've seen 2028 pump heads for sale before online shopping. A bit pricey but cheaper than the whole unit.


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## eoconnor (Nov 24, 2006)

but why not just by an inline pump to drive the unit? they are about 35 bucks for 250 gph and mag drives are real quiet.


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