# re-priming 2075



## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

Is it normal to have to re-prime your filter after a power interuption also the only way to get the filter to work is I have to empty the filter of water to get it to work again


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

newforestrob said:


> Is it normal to have to re-prime your filter after a power interuption also the only way to get the filter to work is I have to empty the filter of water to get it to work again


Absolutely not normal.
Once primed and running a power interruption should have no effect.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

great, I didnt think so ,Im running a fluval 305 on my other tank and power interuptions have no effect,also I got this fiter second hand what are my options to get it fixed or is there something that I could look at myself :-?


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

One of the first things I would try would be removing the hose block from the filter head.
Using a bucket, or such, open the intake tap. 
You should get a good flow of water out of it.
If not, find out why.
While disconnected, I would examine the impeller housing and impeller. Clean it all up. Make sure it spins freely.
Usual cause of this kind of problem is the intake line "pulling air".
But the way you describe it, I would think you would have a water leak, or allot of bubbles in your return flow, if that was the case.
Repairs to a canister amounts to replacing all the "O" rings and impeller replacement if needed.
Other than cracked plastic parts, Ã¢â‚¬Å"OÃ¢â‚¬Â


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

I did say I bought this filter second hand but I forgot to mention that it was never used it was brand new infact
so let me get this straight unplud power cord,disconnect hose head from filter and then open flow lever (i dont have individual taps on each hose)into bucket ,and the water that is in the hoses should just drain out ,right?
then I'll take the head off and clean the impellor and see that it turns freely,i'll look at o rings but i am assuming that they are all okay since the filter was new


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

* open flow lever (i dont have individual taps on each hose)into bucket ,and the water that is in the hoses should just drain out ,right?*

Yes.
There are no check valves, just open lines from filter to your tank.
Both intake and return lines should be full of water when you shut it off.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

thanks for your help by the way, well I just dis connected safety adapter from pump head,set the locking lever on and water emptied from hoses,I then took pump head off checked impeller which seemed okay just a litter dirty,no visible damage to o rings
I am kinda stumped everything seems okay, its just that in the manual it reads that priming wont work if pump head has water in it ,so ,if power is interupted I have to empty canister and pump head of water and reprime , in other words the filter works fine


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

That makes no sense to me. I couldn't imagine having to drain the filter every weekend when I shut the power off to do a water change. I was looking into buying that same filter as well. The only time I ever have a problem with stuff starting back up after a power outage, is when an impeller neads cleaning.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

ya,Im still not convinced that somethings just not right,havnt figured it out yet though :-?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I have been following this thread but hadn't responded since I don't have this particular model but John (Kaiser) suggested I jump in, so here I am.

I just printed out the English instructions to try & help troubleshooting Newforestrob's problem.

Do you have a copy of the owner's manual? Here's the link.

Did you follow the installation height requirements of the filter: the max. distance between the water surface & bottom of the filter is 71 inches/180cm AND the spraybar should be a max. or 4" below water level? Also, the top edge of the pump head must be at least 4 inches/10cm below the water surface of the tank.

Also, there is a check valve assembly located in the pump head (see figure 6.3, drawing 8 & 9 and the 2nd to last page of the owner's manual). Verify that it is assembled properly & there are no pieces missing. There should be a float + a spring + a holder. If these parts are missing or improperly assembled, this could be the cause of the filter not maintaining its prime.

The check valve would seem to be the only possible issue that could cause your filter to lose its prime due to a power outage, so I would look at that first.

Hope this helps, Dee.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

thanks Dee for your reply,
bottom of filter to water surface is 50.5 inches
spray bar is just below water surface angled slightly upward (45 degrees)
filter is under tank in stand
The check valve is something that I am going to have to look at, Im in the middle of treating my fish so Ill look at it in a few more days
You know I wished my filter made noise while it ran that way I would know if I had a power blip
because then I would know that my filter wasnt running


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

That's some good info.. from Deeda. I would be interested to hear if the check valve/parts are in fact the problem. The maximum distance between the water surface and the filter bottom is the reason that I didn't buy the eheim 2229, but it sounds like that isn't a problem for you.


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

And I said there were no check valves, sorry.......  
Hope you get it working.

When in doubt and all else fails.....
Read the instructions, eh.

Good luck


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

dee,
Ill open up the pump head on thursday and look to see if there is anything noticeably wrong and just so were clear im looking at part # 7211568,thanks in advance
kaisersousay,
when I bought the filter ,the head was pre-assembled ,and the manual and instructions for assembly were read and reread ,since this was the first filter that I set-up,if I wasnt such a rookie I probaly would have taken the head apart for S!^TS and giggles,EH!


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

sorry, or am I looking at *7428728* located in the safety adaptor, which by the manual refers to FLOAT and would therefore not be inside the pumphead ,thanks


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Eheim #7428728 is the FLOAT & it appears to be located in the output port of the pump head where the safety adapter inserts. 
In Drawing 6.3, Picture 8 & 9, the BRACKET (#14) keeps the CHECK/FLOAT (#15) in the correct position inside the SUCTION AID (#16). 
I am looking at a couple different pages of the owners manual to try to explain what the parts are & where they are located so the numbers I show in parenthesis, are on page 7 of the English version of the manual.

I'm not sure what Eheim #7211568 is.


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

Thanks again, im clear on what parts and where theyre located , ill try to look at it on thursday


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

for anyone following this thread, the float is in the pump head on the outake side where the safety adapter connects, no visible damage and seems to be functioning properly then,
I phoned eheim's tech support they ensured me that it could not be the float or it would not pump at all, they are sending me new props for the impeller, tech is convinced that there is not enough clearance between props and cavity wall,should get the part in 7-10 days and ill let you know how it worked out,thanks to everyone involved, spec. Dee


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks for the update regarding the check valve.

I'm glad you were able to contact tech support regarding the problem. I really hope they have the correct solution, though I don't quite understand the "not enough clearance between props and cavity wall" statement.

Anyway, when you get your new impeller, is there any chance you can post some pics of the new and old impellers side-by-side? Just curious if there is a visible difference.

Dee


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

it must be something thats been happening with this filter because the guy was finishing my sentences when I was explaining the problem, I'm curious to see the differnce as well, because I really didnt see a problem with the impeller when I had it out,will post pics, before I do the switch,Rob


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

well I finally got a new impellor and they sent me a new priming unit

when I unscrewed the cap that holds the impellor assembly in place I noticed a groove on the cap

My question is,is there suppose to be an o-ring on the cap?


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

success,

I finally fixed this filter,

it seems as though someone forgot to put an o-ring in the priming button assembly,

the new impellar blade is the same as the old one,I relaced it anyway,

I can now turn off the power and restore power and the filter will continue to work,

if anyone is going to take the filter head apart you will need a t 10 driver,which of course I didnt have,get a long one to reach the head of the screw,

heres a picture of the old priming unit,note the missing o-ring










heres a picture of what they sent,notice the o-ring










In the end I learnt how my filter works and how it is assembled,hope this helps someone in the future,cheers :thumb:


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Nice job on the repair and great job on the old & new pics of the priming unit. I am sure this thread will come in very handy for someone else that has a similar issue with this model filter. Plus it's nice to be able to see the parts since I do not have this model filter.

Thanks again for the update.

Dee


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## newforestrob (Feb 1, 2010)

just to clarify,
its not an o-ring as such, but a rubber gasket that is sandwhiched between the two parts that make up the priming unit, :thumb:


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## jcahow (Apr 25, 2010)

I highly doubt you problem had anything to do with your priming unit not having that o-ring, this is assuming you used the new impeller they sent you. If you are still using you original impeller than maybe that was the real problem.

I have 17 Eheim canisters (4- eccos, 2 - 2026, 3 - 2028, 4 -2073, and 4 - 2075) spread across 6 tanks. All but one problem 2073 canister restart and pump just fine after the power is cut and then restored. That one problem canister needs to have its head drained before it will pump again if it has even the slightest power iinterruption (even running on an UPS).

Seeing this thread I decided to take the problem 2073 canister head apart to see if it had your missing o-ring and it did NOT. Being curious I then took the heads of some of my other 2073 and 2075 canisters apart and they ALL were missing the o-ring as well (but restarted just fine). All these 2073/5 canisters were bought in the last 18 months so my guess is that the missing o-ring supplied byEheim is either not standard or a very recent change.

I then starting exchanging similar canister parts until I tracked down the problem in my case. It is the actual impeller that came with the problem 2073 canister.

I had ordered 2 Eheim 2073 canisters when setting up my last tank just two months ago and that is when I encountered the restart problem on one. If I just swap their impellers leaving everything else alone then the restart problem appears on the other 2073 canister.

So my guess is that the new impeller they sent you fixed your problem and not the new priming assembly if you swapped them both in at the same time. If you are still running you original impeller than thats a different story.

I will try to get a new 2073 impeller from Eheim but I doubt it will happen as they have never answered any other inquiries I have sent them in the past....................


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## jcahow (Apr 25, 2010)

I never got an response to my e-mail to Eheim so I called them direct on their free number. Once I sent in a copy of my receipt they sent me out some new impeller parts (not the entire impeller just the removable fin part) and that resolved the canister restart problem.

So I guess if you need anything from Eheim contact them directly by phone...............


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