# 125g Malawi Tank - Aquaterra Background And More...



## harveyb27

I'm bored of the holey rock i have in the current 55g setup, so want a change. I decided i want a 125g and most of the plans are now in motion. I recently bought a 60x24inch aquaterra background, which is the backbone of this project. I will get a Juwel Rio 400 (59x20x24") soon and I am still in the process of aquiring the rock and other stuff. Feel free to share your comments and give some insight/advice as i put it all together!...

*Here are some pictures of the background:*
(PLEASE CLICK TO ENLARGE PHOTGRAPHS)

Front:

     

From the left:

  

From the right:

 

Top:



Behind:



Close-ups:


----------



## Cento

OOOOooooo... very interested in seeing how that turns out! opcorn:

Incidentally, what kind Malawi are you planning on keeping?


----------



## harveyb27

I have debated this for quite some time now. Whether or not i should stock haps/peacocks or mbuna. I have never kept peacock's before, though i can see why people keep them. In the very beginning of brain-storming this tank i intended to stock mbuna, so decided to stick with that route. Part of the reason why i chose to use this background was to mimic the rocky mbuna habitat...

I haven't completely decided what species i will have in the 125g. I have the following fish in a 55g and 30g, though most of them are fry/juvies. The majority will be moved to the 125g:

14 Pseudotropheus Demasoni "Pombo Rocks" (2-4cm)
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lions Cove" (2-3")
6 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point" (2-4")
5 Labeotropheus Trewavasae "Chilumba" (3-5cm)
5 Cynotilapia sp. Hara "Gallireya Reef" (2-4cm)
5 Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" (2-4cm)

I'm also interested in the following species, incase i change my mind about some of the species above:

Metriaclima sp. Msobo "Magunga"
Cynotilapia sp. Mbamba "Mphanga Rocks"


----------



## pupdawg

The demansoni's and the yellow labs would look awesome along with that background. In fact the current stocking list is going to look very nice once they grow out to adult size. Be sure to add some regular rock as caves and such too. Cant wait for this to be set up!

What are you going to use for filtration?


----------



## harveyb27

I have looked everywhere for rocks that match the background. Its always so fustrating when you know what you want but cannot find it anywhere. I came across some Pagoda rock in a lfs that was quite close to the background, and I'm waiting to get some this week from a new order.

As far as filtration goes... I plan on hiding all the pipework, intakes/outakes, heaters etc. behind the background.

*Fluval FX5 (filters 2300 lph via twin outlet) - primary filtration.
Eheim 2227 (filters 550 lph via spray bar) - oxygenated biological filter with wave effect flow.
Fluval 405 (filters 1023 lph via twin outlet) - for extra flow and media surface.*

3 uptakes, 4 outlets and one spray bar. Total combined circulation - 8 times per hour.

The fluval FX5 already has two directional outlets which are going to be used to direct flow from the right side (to the left) of the tank. The fluval 405 originally has one outlet, though with the use of pvc piping the flow will be split into two paths. The first is out of the background and to the front of the tank (in the centre), and the other will be kept behind the background to direct flow towards the fluval FX5 intake. The eheim spray bar will be positioned at the top left for increased surface agitation as no outlets are positioned there. The eheim uptake is on the far left, the fluval 405 uptake is in the middle, and the FX5 uptake is on the far right (each uptake is close to a meshed hole in the background). I will use two 300w heaters, all positioned between an intake and a hole in the background. One next to the eheim intake (left) and the other next to the FX5 intake.

Diagram of filtration setup:


----------



## Cento

Holy Moses... You really got this planned out well! Let me guess, Engineering background? :wink:

All kidding aside, though, well thought out. I'm sure you've done your research, but just a point, since your're running three canister filters, you may want to dedicate them individually to increase efficiency in the three types of filtration (i.e, 2 biological, 1 mechanical or 2 mostly geared for bio, 1 geared for mech, etc, etc). Also, another point i've seen posted here before and i agree, is to place heaters near outakes or powerheads or other sources of water flow to increase efficency of heat distribution and avoid other possible problems...

All in all, WOW. Looks like a Museum display or an Aquaria habitat at Marineworld..

Keep posting your progress.. :thumb:


----------



## harveyb27

I'm a student studying in univeristy/college, im only 20 :lol: im no engineer. I've just had a lot of time to plan this. I've had a lot of advice on this forum which has helped a lot. Also got advice from others with 3D backgrounds.

The eheim 2227 is a biological wet/dry canister filter. Its rubbish for mechanical, so bio is its only use really. The 305 intake is positioned near the part of the background where a cave forms. The cave is quite deep, so i decided one of the holes in the background would be there. One benafit is that it will be hidden, as it will be on the roof of the cave area. The other positive is that the intake there will draw water from that area which will most likely have a lot of dirt settle there. The flow from its outake behind the background will also increase the flow drawn through this hole. The FX5 will be the force behind most of the mechanical and chemical filtration as the intake should draw a lot of water through the right hole. Hopefully i have this right. :thumb:

If the heating is not sufficient i may get a powerhead and aim it at one of the heaters, or alternatively i was advised that using an external heater would be good.


----------



## Cento

I myself use an In-line heater. I use the Hydor ETH 200w. With a tank your size, you may want 2x 300w IMO, and it will definitely help with heat distribution and help prevent cold spots in your tank..

Good luck with it all!!


----------



## harveyb27

I was recommended the Hydor ETH 300w by others too. I found out it would not fit on the FX5 piping, people have used it on a 405, however they had to fix leaks because the connection is not perfect. Plus it would be difficult to adjust the temp if its was connected to the 405, as it will be positioned behind the tank in the centre. It would be a nightmare to reach over just to change the temp or fix a leak. I could use one on the eheim, but again i dont want to take the chances of having leaks and i dont really want to cut the pipework for the eheim, incase i change my mind.

I think i may get a Rena Smart Heater 300w, position and connect it to the intake of the eheim with an adapter. That way the water being pumped out the spray bar should provide heating for the left side. As for placing a heater on the right side, i was thinking of just using the standard 300w i will get with the tank. What do you think?


----------



## Cento

Well, as far as leaking issues are concerned, I haven't had any problems with my in-line and its connected to an EHEIM. And the heaters come with 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch connections which fit most pipes, and if not there are reducers/expander adapters that can tackle the diameter issue.

As far as ajustment or emergency work is concerned, I don't know exactly your setup with the stand and where the canister's will be situated, but with me, i placed the heater inside my cabinet with the EHEIM and other stuff hidden from sight but easily accessible.

The Rena Smart Heater is well reviewed, and realistically, that will probably work for you just as well. With good placement and using 2 good heaters (preferably submersible), it should be fine. The review section here is good, you just need to read ALL of the reviews to get the whole context of the performance of these products (some people don't know the meaning of an "objective" review). You may benefit from 2 thermometers as well.

Hope that helps.. 

Out of pure curiosity, what floor of your flat/house will you be placing this beauty of a tank?


----------



## harveyb27

The tank will be in a house on the lowest possible level. The floor has held up against my 60g, and im more than sure it will be okay for the 125g. I have no basement so its the strongest support availiable.

I currently have around 70lbs of Caribsea Aragamax Select sand. Do you think this will be enough for a five-foot tank, considering that the background takes up a little floor space too? I want a 2-3" sand bed depth.


----------



## Cento

Hmm... thats a good question, I know that dry sand has the density of 100 lbs per cubic foot.

So it would be: 
square feet value * (3"/12)= cubic feet
Cubic feet value * 100 lbs/cubic foot = total lbs
Total lbs / 50lbs (or whatever about they sell it by) = how many bags you need.

I would do a bit of research on it though, don't take my word for it (its been a LONG time since highschool math for me! :wink: )

I think your LFS guy should be able to help you with that, and after all, its not rocket science.. Buy a few extra, and I'm sure the LFS will take back 1 or 2 unopened bags...


----------



## harveyb27

I tried your "AQUATIC-EQUATIC-SAND-EQUATION" :lol: :thumb:

Final value i got was 3.33 bags. I had 3 bags but used about a third of one bag on the 30g grow out. I think the left over sand plus the other two bags should be enough for atleast a 2" sand bed. Im happy you provided that equation. I love doing maths lol

Im currently looking to see if anyone is selling the tank im looking for, so i can get it cheaper. I was supposed to go see one on monday which was in perfect condition (no scratches etc.) but it got sold the day before i was supposed to view it.  If i dont find another one in good condition by next week im going to have to order a new one.


----------



## harveyb27

oops double post


----------



## Cento

Glad I could help! And glad it turned out to mathematically sound... Ha! 

I hope everything turns out well with the tank find. I'm looking forward to seeing the final result in a few weeks!! opcorn:


----------



## PPaulin

Hey Harvey Looks great, Tip on the Fluval Fx5 and the Hydor 300 in line. Take Fx5 and hydor connections parts to home depot or Plumbing store a put it together like a puzzle.

For My set up I removed the fluval ouput hose from the Fx5 to the heater mount location 
Replaced that with a clear bendable hose from home depot purchased. all adapters and connectors and your all set. I also used Those hose clamps you would normally see in you car on the radiator hose, to secure all hose to adapter connections and My system has been leek free for 2 years now.


----------



## gurvir19

what kind of m/f ratio do you have for your stock list? ...i have a 150 gallon i will be setting up myself and deciding on stock list as well

14 Pseudotropheus Demasoni "Pombo Rocks" (2-4cm)
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lions Cove" (2-3")
6 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point" (2-4")
5 Labeotropheus Trewavasae "Chilumba" (3-5cm)
5 Cynotilapia sp. Hara "Gallireya Reef" (2-4cm)
5 Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" (2-4cm)


----------



## harveyb27

Thanks for the replies.

PPaulin - That is very good that it has been leak free for two years. I may now consider the hydor 300, if the rena and standard heaters are not sufficient enough.

gurvir19 - I am aware that you are setting up a 150g :thumb: Im watching your thread and look forwrd to seeing the result. I plan to have a ratio of atleast 3-4 females to every male. However i will not be sexing the dems or labs at this moment. The acei are already sexed as 1m/5f. The rest are still small so will have to sort that out as i go. The final stocking decision is still under consideration.

At the moment i have lots of developing breeding groups. I discussed the idea of having an all male mbuna, though i doubt they would all color well. I know so many enthusiasts in the UK that have tanks full of wild caught pairs. All their tanks look so natural and stunning so i may opt for that route, if i find enough eveidence that it works long term (If i do this i will not distribute or keep any fry - probs end up flushing them  )


----------



## Floridagirl

I really like the blocks of color and breeding behavior that groups provide. I would add Syno Multis..at least 6, for fry control. They are awesome to watch in a large group. If you are not breeding and would like a little more diversity, may I suggest 8 smaller groups. Giant Demasoni instead of Demasoni can be 1m, 2-3 Females. You can have 4-5 per group 1, 4F. I am getting out of breeeding, and will be setting up my 125, 5 ft. similarly. I am thinking Labs, Red Zebra O and OB, Giant Demasoni, Maingano, Cyno Hara, Acei, and Borleyi (which run the tank of Labs and Acei). I have all these fish in a 125 and 100 ...just will combine in to groups of 1M, 3 Female, one tank less numbers. Good Luck with your endeavor.


----------



## harveyb27

Hey, *Floridagirl*, thanks for the input. I do intend to stock synodontis, though they will not be multi's. I want to keep this tank true to Lake Malawi so i have a large group of Njassae i will put in there. In the end i should have a group of 8-10.

I am thinking of just keeping the dems in my 60g. Keeping the groups of acei and labs in the 125g. Along with these groups i may add some wild caught pairs. Everyone seems to have this kind of setup in the UK and it looks amazingly similar to images of the lake. Im not too keen on the giant demasoni :thumb: I have Borleyi in my mbuna tank too, they seem to do just fine.

*Update:* I went to my lfs yesterday, as the owner said he had a delivery of the rock i was waiting for. Unfortunately it as not the same kind of rock. The old rock was mined so much that they had reached a new layer of sedimentary rock. It was totally different to the ones i expected, so i am still on the search for rocks!

I have decided i will not get a juwel rio 400. I already have a juwel rio 240, so want something different. Plus you dont get much from this package deal - the tanks not too good looking, 1 heater, rubbish internal filter etc. The tank i am now interested in is the rena aqualife 450. Its taller, has two heaters, a canister filter xp3, and it looks better. But ofcourse the rena will cost more money :lol:

There is one problem with the rena tank though. The lighting is four T8's, which has less power than the juwels T5's. Has anyone got/ever had T8's? Are they really that bad?


----------



## Floridagirl

Whats not to like...lol


----------



## harveyb27

Haha, i get your point! I guess i hav never seen one that nice. The ones on the profile look awful:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/profiles/s ... hp?id=2605

They should put your pic on the profile :thumb:

What kind of rocks are in the background?


----------



## gurvir19

after looking at your stock list profiles and mine......i think i may have too much blue..now i am thinking of using ur stock list and adding replacing Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" with Pseudotropheus socolofi

I swear this fish selection process is so hard! i keep changing my mind and at one point i almost switch completely to peacocks


----------



## harveyb27

Hahaha you dont know how many times i have changed my mind tooo. Its a very hard decision...

*I bought my first mbuna - 7 yellow labs, which i still have after all these years! Then...*

1) I went from mbuna and tanganyikans when i first started keeping rifts.
2) Narrowed down to just mbuna.
3) Changed the stocklist i had like 3 times.
4) Had mbuna and haps.
5) Then i started my plans for my 125g - dems and labs only...
6) Then i added a bunch of fish to that list :-?
7) Couldnt decide so bought groups of the many species that i have now.
8 ) Nearly gave up mbuna, was also about to switch to haps/peacocks
9) Changed my mind to a species only saulosi tank!!! 
10) Considered an all male mbuna..

*Now i just dont know what to do lol only time will telll...*


----------



## Cento

Yeah... Going through that now.. You just gotta commit! :lol:

I set a deadline for myself. Tomorrow, I pick up my fish from the supplier. I'm getting 6 saulosi and 4 fish that I haven't decided on yet; either haps, peacocks, or something compareable. I'll find out when I get home tomorrow from the store.

You can try to prepare all you want, but in the end, you'll never know what'll happen till you're there. You just gotta do it, give it your all and work with what you get........ Like marriage..


----------



## harveyb27

You said it perfectly cento. :lol:

What do you think of this stocklist:

12 Pseudotropheus Demasoni "Pombo Rocks (Unsexed)
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lions Cove" (4M,3F)
6 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point" (2M,4F)
5 Cynotilapia sp. Hara "Gallireya Reef" (1M,4F)
5 Metriaclima sp. Msobo "Magunga" (1M,4F)
3 Tropheops sp. Red Fin "Kakusa" (1M,2F)
2 Labeotropheus Trewavasae "Chilumba" (Pair)
2 Metriaclima Aurora Yellow Cobue (Pair)
2 Metriaclima Zebra "Masinje" OB (Pair)
2 Pseudotropheus sp. Daktari (Pair)
2 Pseudotropheus Elongatus "Neon Spot" (Pair)
2 Pseudotropheus Elongatus "Chewere" (Pair)

8 Synodontis Njassae (Malawi Squeeker)
4 Chiloglanis Neumanni (Malawi Suckermouth)

I know there is a lot of fish but thats the point! No one fish will get a chance to claim territory, and thats what i want. I dont intend to breed the fish within this tank. I would pair them up in another tank if i wanted to breed them. Here is my inspiration:
http://lakemalawi.co.uk/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=103&t=7874&start=105


----------



## Cento

I saw the link..That was a very nice tank, and pretty to look at! I'm just thinking about the bio-load! 

I know that the "over crowding" method is something that most believe works, and it makes sense to me. Even in videos of Lake Malawi, you see how crowded lake bottom is with fish. Its just the practical aspect of keeping up with the waste issues that concerns me..

But, I'm sure you thought of that when you got the tank and put together the stock list. All in all, I think it'll be a breathtaking display!! :drooling:

I'm excited to see the end result!!


----------



## Demasonian

Hey harvey - Can't wait to see the finished product!

As far as your stocklist goes, I'd agree with Cento -- probably a little on the heavy side. By my math that's 62 fish, most in the 5-6 inch realm! I do believe in overstocking mbuna and had upwards of 40 fish in a 75  , but the vast majority were dwarfs (labs and demasoni).

Bearing in mind that this is just opinion and not gospel, I recommend keeping the numbers between 40 - 60 fish, depending on size, and limiting to only six species of mbuna. Minimum of 5 fish per species, 12 for the Demasoni. Avoid mixing Demasoni with Elongatus or any similar looking fish (ie. afra). Even with a large space, they will very likely be aggressive with anything that remotely resembles them, regardless of the risk of hybridization.

From your list, I would go for the following mix:

20 Demasoni - blue and black
6 M. Msobo - blue and orange
8 L. Caeruleus - yellow and black
6 Tropheops - orange and black
6 P. Daktari - yellow and blue
6 P. Acei - blue and yellow

and

6 Synos

Whatever you decide to do, it looks like it is shaping up to be a spectacular tank!


----------



## harveyb27

I have debated about this so much on both sides, to be honest it has become very fustrating lol im sure everyone has experienced it. 

Choosing mbuna is very hard lol :x Im still not certain what ill stock though.


----------



## harveyb27

Sorry for the major delay. I have been looking for an appropriate tank. I dont want to cut the background so have only considered tanks which have bracing attached to the rim (which can easily be removed and replaced), not glass. I decided i dont want a juwel rio 400, because i already have one and just dont think it will make for a good display on this occassion as its not tall enough. I was interested in the rena 450, however after emailing them and finding out from a few other people that have the tank... it actually has 3 braces about 6 inches wide attached to the glass. This would unfortunately mean that this tank is unsuitable. Im not prepared to take the brace off and then fix it back, or cut the background.

I have contacted a custom tank manufacturer, that will allow me to fit the background before any braces are fitted. Unfortunately the company im interested in are on thier annual holiday  So i will not be able to get any quotes until the 30th!!

Thanks for your patience, and as soon as i know what im doing ill let you guys know lol :thumb:

I moved the pictures on the first page into another section on photobucket so they are unviewable. Heres another one (that shouldnt be moved) to keep everyone interested  :


----------



## harveyb27

Hey, sorry for the delay people, been very busy.

I started on the preperation ofr the background whilst im still waiting to get the tank. I will get my aquarium from ND Aquatics. Ill visit them soon to install the background before they apply the euro bracing. I have done all the preperation for the background, so all i have to do now is literally silicone it to the tank...

First i changed the size of the tank i was going to get. Originally i was going to get a rio 400, rena 450 or a custom tank in the same dimensions. The new custom tank will be bigger, a 60x24x24" tank, ensuring i get the maximum space back for the fish to swim, as the background is huge (understatement).

I started the preperation for the background by deciding where i would put the piping/tubes for the filters. I changed my mind from the original plans of having twin pipes from each output. Instead there will only be one pipe to make things less complicated, and also so i dont have to cut the background in too many places. The fluval fx5 output nozzle will be used so i can still control the direction of flow.

I cut two holes using a simple kitchen knife. I then filed these using a Half Round Rasp/File (wood work tool). This helped the smooth out the edges slowly to the perfect shape and measurement for the pipes to fit snug.

I then cut out the holes to allow water flow in the same way. I also made a small overflow at the top of the background. The overflow is near the flow of the output from the fluval fx5 so this should draw water out from the surface behind the background.

I used a very fine mesh to cover these sections. I used a silicone/glue gun to cover the edges of the background and to seal any gaps etc. Black silicone was used so that it would match the tank silicone.

*After Cutting:*
    
*After Silicone and Mesh:*
      
*Behind:*


----------



## harveyb27

Good News Everyone... The tank is up and running, rocks, background and the first bunch of fish too.

Since my last post i have painted the rim and sides black. Cleaned rocks and sand... Install an eheim 2227, fluval 405 and fx5. The surface agititation is great with 3 filters. The volume of water is approx 560 liters / 150 US gallons.

All i need to do now is silicone the rim of the background (so fish cant jump behind) and get lighting.

There is no hood, as i wanted an open top. There are glass covers which cover the whole of the top.

NDaquatics did an amazing job on helping me install the background. The finish of the tank is unbeleivable...

The fish so far are:

11 Pseudotropheus Demasoni "Pombo Rocks"
7 Labidochromis Caeruleus "Lion's Cove"
6 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point"
3  Melanochromis Dialeptos "Masinje Rocks"

Here is a teaser pic, though you wont be able to see the full effect without lighting.










I want to buy an arcadia luminaire ot2 (60"). Does anyone know where i can get it or the lowest price. The best price i found was Â£409. Which is crazy, but i think it would look great as i have an open top. Plus i will be able to switch from a moon light to normal lighting from one button in one system. So is there anyone that knows how/where i can get a good deal for this? Thanks.


----------



## harveyb27

Major major delay, since last post but here it is...

After a few years of chopping and changing I'm finally happy with my tank and stocklist*

Stocklist:

WC = Wild Caught.
F1 = First generation from wild parents.
TB = Tank Bred.
PB = Previously Bred in other peoples tanks.
RB = Regular Breeders in my tank.

3 Cynotilapia Lion "Sanga" - 1M/2F (F1) (RB)
2 Cynotilapia Mbamba "Mphanga" - 1M/1F (WC)
2 Metriaclima Dwarf "Manda" - 1M/1F (OB Fems) (WC)
2 Metriaclima Mbenji "Mbenji Island" - 1M/1F (OB Fems) (WC) (PB)
3 Metriaclima Zebra Chilumba "Maison Reef" - 1M/2F (WC) (RB)
3 Metriaclima Zebra Gold "Kawanga" - 1M/2F (OB Fems) (WC) (PB)
3 Labeotropheus Trewazasae "Zimbawe Rocks" - 1M/2F (OB Fems) (F1, One fem is F2) (PB)
4 Labidochromis Caeruleus - 2M/2F (TB)
2 Pseudotropheus Acei "Kambiri Point" - 1M/1F (F1) (RB)
5 Tropheops Red Fin "Kakusa" - 1M/4F (WC) (RB)
4 Synodontis Njassae (WC)

*I said i was happy with the stocklist, but i will be happier when i find these last additions:

WANTED
5 Metriaclima Msobo "Magunga" - 1M/4F (WC)
2 Metriaclima Dwarf "Manda" - 2F (OB Fems) (WC)
2 Metriaclima Zebra Chilumba "Maison Reef" - 2F (WC)

Tank:

Custom Aquarium by ND-Aquatics (UK). 60"x25"x24" (LxHxW).
Glass Sliders, Black Silicone, Black matching cabinet, No Hood.
I used black paint to border 1" of the top of the tank, allowing 24" of veiwable glass. Also painted the sides behind the background.

*Decoration:*
- Aquaterra 3D Background - Malawi Version
The background was sealed with black silicone on the bottom and both sides. There was a 1" gap between glass sliders and the background, which was also filled with silicone to ensure no fish could get behind the BG.
- Large Brown Boulders
- Caribsea Aragamax Select Sand (50lbs)

*Filtration, Heating and Lighting:*
- FX5 - Twin Output
- FLUVAL 405 - Single Output
- EHEIM 2227 - Spray Bar

- 2x Rena SmartHeater 300w

- 2x Aquaray 500 LED Bars
Aquaray Controller - "natural sunrise/sunset effect"

*Maintenance:*
- Clean one filter every 4 months in rotation
- Scrub glass (inside and out) twice a week.
- 50-60% Water change every week.
- Siphone tank weekly (behind background bi-weekly).
- Re-arrange rockwork bi-weekly.

*Feeding:*

Morning:
Sunday-Tuesday - NLS 1mm Pellet
Wednesday-Friday - Tropical Malawi Flake

Afternoon or Evening:
Monday - NLS 1mm Pellet
Tuesday - Tropical Malawi Flake
Wednesday - Red Astax Crumb
Thursday - NLS 1mm Pellet
Friday - Tropical Spirulina Super Forte Flake
Saturday - No feed
Sunday - Treat - Frozen Mysis Shrimp or Brine Shrimp

*Breeding:*

I leave holding females in the tank for 2 weeks.
Strip using a ball point pen then transfer fry to fry trap in a 30g.
I return females to the same tank immediately after stripping, to avoid re-introduction process.

Photography:

        

PLEASE WATCH IN HD...


----------



## kriskm

Wow, amazing job on this tank. I love how the rocks match the background so well. It all provides a very natural backdrop for those gorgeous fish. The pics were worth the wait (of course, I just found this thread, so I didn't really have to wait :wink: ).


----------



## harveyb27

Thanks, the rocks actually used to be a yellow/brown color. After a bit of algae everything easily blended in together. I searched high and low for brown rocks with no luck at all.

Glad you did not have to endure the delay... i was useless! 

Make sure you guys watch the video in the link at the post.


----------

