# 90 Gallon Filtration



## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

I currently have a 90 Gallon Peacock/Hap Tank and am running an Eheim 2217, the water quality is poor somewhat cloudy and there's a lot of debris floating around in the tank. I have the intake at one end and the spray bar situated so it flows across the tank towards the intake, also have a powerhead pushing water towards the intake. The tank is a new setup however was an upgrade and existing gravel/water was used and the filter was run along side the old filter for a about a month. I know the aquarium has cycled as I have no no ammonia/nitrite and nitrates spiked/water changed...still cloudy with lots of debris. The new tank/filter have been running for a couple of months, 15-20% water changes performed weekly. Doing a lot of reading and it sounds as though one Eheim 2217 will not provide me with enough mechanical filtration....the LFS disagrees and keeps telling me to try different things (none of which have worked). Do I need to add another filter? should I look at another 2217 or maybe the XP3 would be better? Stocking below...

90 Gallon, Eheim 2217
(2) Aulonocara Jacobfreibergi
(1) Aulonocara Maulana
(3) Aulonocara Baenschi
(2) Aulonocara Nyassea
(2) Aulonacara sp. OB Peacock
(2) Aulonacara sp. Strawberry Peacock 
(2) Protomelas sp. "Steveni Taiwan"
(1) Otopharynx Lithobates
(1) Synodontis Eupterus


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## notchback65 (Apr 3, 2013)

On my 90 setup,I have an FX5 with a spraybar,2 koralia (1 1050 and 1 750 w/wavemaker for circulation(switches every hour)the strongest flow is aiming toward the filter intake.
I perform 60% water changes per week.
I still have some cloudiness issues sometimes,depending on how much my fish are digging.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I would prefer to see you add an additional filter on your tank. There are a lot of choices on canister filter brands, you can also check the Product Reviews at the top of the page to see what other members' opinions are on brands/models.

You could also do a power filter or HOB (Hang on Back) rather than another canister filter.


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## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Thanks Dee, I'm torn between adding another 2217, an API (Rena) XP3 or the AC110.

I'm kind of trying to steer away from the HOB's as my aquarium is in a main area of the house....the flow rate is kind of low on the 2217 so maybe the XP3 is better...whats your opinion? or anyone else care to weigh in...


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## chopsteeks (Jul 23, 2013)

You need to add another filter. AC110 is great and also price is fairly reasonable. Can't go wrong with XP3 either. Will provide a bit more biological media over AC110. Flow rate definitely better than 2217.

For cloudiness, use one of the old fashion remedy ---- charcoal in the filter media.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

One advantage to having two filters of the same brand and model is that you only need to stock minimal spare parts and with the Classic series filters, that usually means an impeller and/or impeller shaft and a couple o-rings.

But if you are looking to try a different brand canister filter, there are a lot to choose from.

The only real noise that a power filter produces is sometimes the trickling sound of the water as it returns to the tank though this can be virtually eliminated if the water level of the aquarium is kept full. There are frequent complaints of the lid rattling or impeller/shaft noise due to wear from either age or fine sand substrate eroding the parts.

I agree that carbon can improve the clarity of the water and it can also be helpful to add filter floss or similar non-aquarium products to your filter to catch any fine debris. Of course the filter floss needs to be changed more frequently because as it clogs, you will experience reduced flow output.


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## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Dee, Do you think I will have enough filtration with two 2217's?


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## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Okay so I've added the API XP3 it has more flow than the 2217....so far its pretty noisy. So I now have XP3/2217 with intakes at either end and the outlets spraying water across the tank at different angles both towards the intakes. Removed the powerhead because it was close to the new intake and I was afraid it would pull things away from it.

Did a 30% water change and ran the new setup overnight, waters still cloudy....hopefully it will just take sometime to settle down and I can get the water nice and clear.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I wouldn't expect the tank to clear up overnight so give it a few days.

Can you describe the color or appearance of the cloudy water, examples, milky white, grayish, greenish, tiny bubbles, etc.?

Also, just for clarification, what are the exact numbers for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate now?


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## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Its foggy I guess milky white, there are small particles floating around, some tiny air bubbles from the bubble wand...looks a lot like new tank syndrome...when I setup a couple months back the water was crystal clear after a couple of days, then about 2 weeks later this started...been doing weekly water changes since week 2, at first the LFS thought I was being too aggressive with the waterchanges/vaccuming but then I saw the nitrate levels so not sure that could be the case..

Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 80ppm

I know Nitrates are very high, I was having issues with my test kit that I just sorted out and now just got a proper reading this was prior to the waterchange I did last night. I'm not sure if I should keep changing the water every couple of days to bring down the nitrates or try to leave it alone to settle....will check my levels again after work today. Just a thought I have crushed coral substrate, the fish are digging quite a bit and I tend to move the stuff back into place when I vacuum the gravel (which I did last night) could this be part of the issue?


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## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Okay so Ammonia & Nitrite remain at zero. Nitrates are still very high, I'm having issues reading the result as I have the API test kit and the difference between 40 & 80 PPM is such a slight shade of red I can't tell if its at all lower..... will do another water change on the weekend.

On a gloomier note, I'm already having issues with the XP3. The infamous air in the top of the filter issue is happening to me, I re-prime and get the air out per all of the videos/instructions I've read and a few hours later the air is back. I don't have time to fiddle with filters like this so I believe its going back to the LFS in exchange for an Eheim.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Try shutting off the air bubble wand. It's possible that some of the air is being drawn into the filter intake and causing the air entrapment.

Also, have you checked the nitrate level of your source (tap) water? If not, test it and post the results. Also check the pH of your tap water. Take a sample of the water in a clean glass container, let it sit overnight and then run the test.

I have noticed that Caribsea crushed coral tends to cause the water to be a milky white when I initially place it in a small mesh bag in my aquariums, even after rinsing it. If I disturb the bag, it does make the water milky until it settles down. I don't know it that is what is causing your problem.


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## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Tested Tap water last night, no nitrates and PH runs around 8.

Will try turning off the bubble wand to see if that helps, the water has cleared some since adding the filter. LFS is giving me a hard time about the filter and won't help so I need to get it working properly on my own. Last time I ever buy Rena/API. My eheim isn't doing this....

Theres quite a bit of white debris/dust that kicks up everytime I vacuum, I even see it going up the python...so maybe thats contributing...maybe theres some additional media I can add?


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## sfauvelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Bubbles are off and that seems to have fixed the filter problem. Water has cleared, still some particles (I'm attributing that to the coral substrate and fish digging) but overall pretty clear.
Water Parameters now Ammonia/Nitrite 0ppm, Nitrate 40-50 ppm (Still high will continue to do 30% water changes until l I can get it down to at least 30ppm...

Thanks for your help Dee!


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

You are welcome!

The easiest way to reduce the nitrates is through frequent water changes, especially since your tap water is registering zero nitrates. You might also keep an eye on how much food is left uneaten when you feed your fish. If you can stagger smaller amounts of food throughout the day, you may find you have better control over uneaten food getting trapped in the substrate.


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## Austinite (Jul 27, 2013)

My tank is slightly larger than yours, 110G, but I have 2x 2217's plus an Emperior HOB, plus 2 Koralia's. I never have cloudy water, even when I stir up the sand to clean.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

I run a FX5 on my 90, nothing else. It stays crystal clear. An AC110 would clear things up for you, but I hate HOB's.


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