# wet/dry and an algea scrubber



## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

I am in the process of still planning my wet/dry filter for my 150 and was researching for ideas. I cam across the algea scrubber idea. Now i was thinking why not use both together in line as apposed to seperatly... what i am thinking is that if i were to build an algae srubber simular to this one here....
http://www.marineaquariumsa.com/showthr ... 360&page=2

then set it up in line where the order would be overflow box-scrubber-wet/dry-tank 








the only thing i cant figure out is how to keep the flow going from scrubber to wet/dry with out a second pump ( i dont think it can be done). there is only 18 inches of space between tank and floor under the stand....


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## Stickzula (Sep 14, 2007)

why does the algae 'scrubber' need to be separate from the wet/dry? I would look into doing a planted sump with other plants that absorb more nitrAtes. Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see an advantage to having the scrubber separate from the sump. If I were doing an algae sponge, I would put a uv sterilizer on the return line to the tank to prevent an algae bloom in the tank.


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

An algae scrubber provides more plant life than a planted sump would. The algae scrubber provides a place for the algea that is more hospitable than the tank is. As long as there is very little algae on the front glass i dont mind algae in the tank. The shortest wet/dry i have found to build or buy would be at just under 16 inches tall. a scrubber would not fit on top of a wet/dry. so i figure i would have the seperate units to allow for easier install.


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## lilredwuck (Jul 30, 2008)

put it behind the tank under the skimmer box then let gravity do the rest to the sump. Pretty much it would be a straight shot. Just one on top of the other.
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Since it kind of a diy build you could make it as skinny as you can, maybe just as big as the skimmer box? Should be able to come up with something. But this "drawing" would be Overflow, Algea scrubber, sump


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

i thought of doing it that way but have since figured out a much better choice and i think a better design... The only problem i saw with using the algae scrubber outside and before the sump would be that all the water would be flowing over the screen. From what i was reading you only want 35 GPH per inch of screen width. with the wet/dry filter media only being able to be soo wide and having heght restrictions the stacked design would not work for my application. I have a penguin 1140 powerhead that pumps out about 300GPH meaning i could do an 8 inch wide by 14 in long screen. and set the wet/dry up like this....


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## Hambiscuit (Aug 22, 2009)

Can you split the drain from the tank? That would eliminate the extra powerhead.


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

I can but i would like to only pump filtered water over the algae screen and not bypass any filtration. unless i figured out a particle filter that could go inline....


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

got the parts to day to start the build. hope this all works right...


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## Rick_Lindsey (Aug 26, 2002)

Cool, be sure to share pics! An algae scrubber is always a project I've wanted to do, just because, but haven't ever done. I'm thinking my planned 29g tank with a 10gal sump might be a little small to fit a scrubber in, but I'll be watching yours with interest!

-Rick (the armchair aquarist, who even as he types is wondering if there's room in a 10 gallon tank for TWO kitty-litter tubs (and a heater and a return pump)... one for wet/dry and the other for an algal filter...)


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## vaypourus (May 20, 2008)

You shouldn't have a problem with algae blooms in the tank, as the algae on the scrubber should remove the majority of phosphates, nitrates, and free floating dissolved organics in the water. From what I've read, the algae scrubber consumes everything it can, and will grow to max capacity leaving little food for algae in the tank.

I would make the scrubber separate from the drain line, just in case you get a clog in the algae scrubber lines. This could overflow your tank and/or run your sump dry (unless you had some kind of float switch in the tank & sump). I've seen people do closed loops like the drawing ben1988 posted that seemed to work well.


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

OK guys i have completed my sump algae filter build  . All the photos are taken after construction so some may be a little vague in description but i can explain further if needed :wink: here is a step by step of how i did er'..... opcorn:

Materials~
90 quart sterilite container with lid
a 4 drawer sterilte organizer (two small drawers, two large drawers) this is the 8.5"x11" model
one power head (GPH rating depends on width of algae filter screen)
assorted 1/2" PVC
1/2" clear tubing
egg crate
two wide mouth quart canning jars with lids
two 60 W growth bulbs (standard bulb not the spot light kind they don't fit the jar)
two ceramic light sockets (i used the kind that you can screw in a metal tube to stand the wire up away from the tubs lid)
one length of wire and outlet plug
second length of outlet wire
knitting plastic mesh (any size you want your algae filter screen you will need 35 GPH for every inch in width of mesh single side)
slate tile to help anchor filter tower down
zip tie's

OK now that we have our supplies we can start the build....
I removed the bottom large drawer of the 4 drawer organizer.










Next i cut out the bottoms of the plastic drawers leaving about 1/4" to 1/2" on each side including the front and rear. Also i cut out the top of the organizer opening the top completely.










Next i cut out three sheets of egg crate to rest in the bottom of each drawer.










Now i took the bottom part of the organizer that i removed and i cut the legs down to about 3 inches tall.









here you can see the leg that is shortened i forgot this photo until after it was already in the tub and under the stand. 

Next i measured out the dimensions of the organizer and i removed an equally in size opening in the sterilite lid. I then placed the organizer legs upside down with the old bottom now facing up. then cracked the slate tile in half rested this on top of the tower stand.










and now i placed the filter tower with drawers inside the sterilite container.










The filter tower is now complete aside from adding the appropriate tubing for the in coming water from the overflow. Next was the building of the algae turf filter (ATF).

First i decided that with the minimal width (not enough room for screen and lights) of the sterilite container it would be best to stretch the screen width wise across the container. After this i did my math and found that with using my 300 GPH power head laying around and shooting for the 35 GPH flow i found that i would need about 8.5 inches of screen width to reach my goal. Now the thing to remember is that even though water will be flowing over both sides of the screen this does not affect the math you only figure it to one side. the same goes for length, no matter what the water is still flowing at 35 GPH at the bottom of the screen.

OK so now i cut my knitting mesh screen to 8.5" i then took a piece of 1/2" PVC tubing and cut it to roughly 13.5". i also cut a second short piece at about 2.5". next i found two 1/2" caps, a 1/2" T fitting with a screw in for the top of the T, and a 1/2" barb fitting (will screw into the T so both the barb and the threads are 1/2"). Next i cut a line 8.5" long through the longer piece of PVC that is just wide enough to let the screen slide in and out freely. i then zip tied the screen to the longer tube making sure to insert the screen all the way into the tube so it touches the the inside of the PVC. i then constructed the PVC into the following....










As you can see i also attached a length of clear tubing the allows the power head to sit on the bottom of the tub with as little slack as possible. It may be advisable to attach a piece of completely black plastic to the top of the screen mesh to prevent algae from growing too close to the PVC opening and clogging it. I will post pics when this is done. but here is how the AFT is suspended in the tub. I just drilled two holes on opposite sides of the tub for the PVC to slide in and out of. The holes are just large enough for the PVC tube to fit in but small enough that the cap on the ends do not. in order to get the screen out you just have to uncap the caps and slide it out.


















OK next i built the growth lights.

I wired together the two light sockets together in a fashion that i only need to plug in one wire as apposed to two. I then took the lids of the jars and drilled a hole just large enough for the metal tube to screw in snugly. then i fed all the wires threw the lid and meal tube. and you are done. screw in the light and then screw the jar onto its lid. this method allows for the light bulb to be protected from water splashing on the bulb and exploding it. as well as keeping the sockets and wires away from water residue accumulating on it and causing a fire or short.









in the above picture you can see the splice and the lid design.









the bulbs installed in the jars

next i cut two holes that would keep the jar edge about 2" away from the screen. also i was sure to make the hole small enough so that the jar can be forced threw it but allow for the jar to just hang there when just left be.









here the lid is re-installed with the jars hanging from their new home.

possible changes to design are a reflector to keep the light pointed at the screen and not all over. and air holes in the lid to help keep temps down in the sealed container.

now all we need to do is place our return pump and tubing into the container and set our water levels. i plan to set my water level at about the bottom of the lower drawer.









here it is with water in and the lights on.









here it is installed under my stand. i had to remove one door and its jam in order for it to slide into place.









with the removed door back in.

Well there we go. all i am waiting on is my overflows and the return pump. but they should be here in the next day or so :dancing: . i will update with new photos and install of those when i get em. if you guys have any questions on anything just shoot em here :thumb:


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## Stickzula (Sep 14, 2007)

looks good :thumb: Can't wait to see the whole thing up and running . . . and some green stuff all over the mesh :drooling:


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

i picked up a a bunch of material that i might use for a bio-ball substitute. i have a few sponges, some scrubbies, and a few of them discount lufa scrub things all are polyester or plastic. i am going to put them in and test them using some gold fish i picked up.

I also picked up some blue algae to start growing to get a good sample turf to start seeding the ATF.


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

ok so some notes and questions....
first off you use the contained light idea you must not only drill holes but might consider a fan on the lights. I have not yet gotten my overflows so i dont know how the water temp will be affected with it circulating. but with the water in there i know that two 60w bulbs heat the water to 83-85 and the air to 90-95 and the air inside the jar is **** hot at 110-115. with the fan running on high i have gotten the water to 78-80 air to 85-90 and the air in the jar to around 100-105.

also i will have to figure out a prefilter to stop algae from being sucked up into the intake of the powerhead. ideas guys?

also i have not yet recieved my pump or my overflows. i am trying to plan my plumbing and cant picture a good way to do this. i am going to be using two seperate overflows rated at 600GPH each. what size tubing is going to be enough for 600GPH. also how would you guys seperate the water to create 300GPH of downflow for the algae scrubber and then divert the other 900 GPH to flow over the wet/dry filters?


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## ben1988 (May 2, 2009)

well i skipped diverting water to the algae scrubber and just plumbed it all to the bio tower. all is p and running and things are going fantastic. i got super lucky and when i checked levels for power outages they were exactly how i wanted them i only add about another four inches to the sump tank. so i am super happy will keep folks up to date on how algae growth comes along. :thumb:


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

Nice work, just gotta love those drawer systems for media towers. Almost like they knew it was just the ticket for building a sump. 
On your test run, I don`t think luck had much to do with where your water levels stayed, more like, proper research and planning. :thumb: 
I think you have saved yourself a great deal of grief by using that second pump for your scrubber. 
I really have mixed feelings about your "grow lights". The simplicity of the "jelly jar" lamp holders as opposed to the amount of heat generated. 
You might consider raising your scrubber, out of the sumps lid. If this was done, you could look to a form of spot/directional lighting. The heat generated by the bulbs would be more easily dissipated to the air as opposed to being held/concentrated in the jars. 
Fine job, well done. =D>


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