# 55 gallon tank, need ideas



## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

I am getting a 55 gallon tank here in a week or two, it was a great craigslist find, the seller is on vacation right now though. Anyway the tank has gravel in it but I was thinking about using sand in the bottom, I like the look better. Then I was thinking about what species. Originally I was thinking Central American species but the more I look online the more I want African species. So far one of the species I want are the Neolamprologus Brichardi. I like the look of them. So I have decided I want them and want to build the tank around them, I would like to have a couple species in the tank. Some of the others I like but not sure if they would go well are the Haplochromis Miloma and the Calvus.

Any suggestions? Also do those species like more plants or rocks or what? Would they be fairly easy to care for? What about breeding? I have a petstore that would buy the fry and the ones I dont sell I can feed to my ducks.

Thanks in advance,
Michael


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## Fogelhund (Dec 3, 2002)

First thing to do is to read the article in the library about keeping N. brichardi. A breeding family doesn't typically make for a good community aquarium, as they can be very aggressive towards their tankmates.

The Placidochromis milomo is not a good fish to be kept in a 55 gallon, and not really compatible with N. brichardi either.

Large A. calvus can be kept with N. brichardi, but the key is getting some that are at least 3", when introducing juvenile N. brichardi.


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

Cool thanks. Are there any other species you would suggest other than the ones I listed?


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

So since the bricardi are more aggressive what about the Calvus or something like that? I looked at the cookie cutter thing for 55 gallon and to be honest I got confused. What are shell dwellers? Also I would prefer the fish to be cheaper since I am just starting and not super commited to $50 fish yet, LOL.


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

The more I read the more I want some sort of Altolamprologus like calvus and Compressiceps. I have found a few breeders with them and they seem fairly cheap. What other species if any could I keep with them in a 55 gallon tank? What sort of cover and such would I need?


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## jh82 (Oct 26, 2007)

The best tank mates for Altos are Cyprichromis leptosoma as long as your tank is big enough, which I believe a 55 gallon is. Just get a non-jumbo type and get about 10-12 of them. You can also put a shelldweller with them or if you don't like shellies, Synodontis Petricola/Lucipinnis are cool. Just make sure you get at least 4-5 of them. Julidochromis Ornatus or Transcriptus also work well with altos.

Comps and Calvus need rocks for cover but will breed in some types of shells and barnacle clusters.


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

Is there any species of shell dweller that would be better than the other or are they about equal? Also how many Altos can I have in a 55 gallon tank?


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## jh82 (Oct 26, 2007)

Some Shell dwellers like ocellatus form a pair or harem and you would just need a few shells. While others like multifasciatus form a colony and would require a bed of many shells.

The general opinion here is to get 6 Altos until a pair is formed and remove the others. I've had reasonable success in keeping a group of them in the same tank, however. I've had more problems with occies killing each other than Altos.


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## BioG (Oct 12, 2008)

Altos are the ultimate Tanganyikan community fish. You can put just about anything with them and you can put them in just about any tank. In a 55 you could have a trio of Calvus. You can keep them with Brichardi because Adult Altos are very formidable even though they are unaggressive to other Genus fish. However, Brichardi can easily take over a 55 with the generations they will produce and their "family" aggression tactics. Alto's will most likely live through this but It would probably end up being a stressful tank to watch and the Dominant brichardi would, no doubt, be ugkly having torn up their lips biting Alto's armored scales all day.

To support What JH said Cyps are a good choice with ALtos but not necessarily the "Best tank mates" as Altos will go well with about anything. I guess to reword it Cyps are more like Altos "best friends" as they bring the Altos out of the rocks and feed the altos their eggs which ALtos become really good at nabbing. So they're not the best if you're trying to breed Cyps. However, in a 50, I would pass on Cyps. IME, anything under 6 feet and they swim around running into the glass like crazed goldfish. Also, not to criticize Cyps in general but, IMO, they are WAY overrated. I like pretty colors and pretty interesting but Cyps do better in a bakers dozen and you will pay at the very least $10-$12 from a breeder (Shops charge $20-$30!) each. Let's say a dozen of these, at a good deal, runs you $120. What you then have to look forward to is one pretty fish (Not stunning just pretty) with 11 drab grey (Not even shiny) suckers following it around. I've even kept all male schools of cyps in which only one or two were colored up. Honestly male coloration doesn't even show up that well unless your observing them at a downward angle. at $2 each, for adults I'd have dozens of these fish anything more just isn't worth it for my taste. To be a total hypocrite I have always wanted a trio of Blue Orchid Cyps but then the forum would exile me because I wasn't keeping them in schools.

If you're going to do it, go with Cyprichromis Leptoma "Utinta" they're fairly common, the males are prettier than "Blue Flash" or "Kerenge" (Though almost exactly the same fish) and they're considered a so-called "dwarf" Cyp so 10 or 12 would fit in your 55 easier.

Here's what I have done with 55's in the past and enjoyed immensely:
Build a reef along the back wall using "Lace Rock" (You can find Aquarium rocks of all kinds CHEAP at landscaping stores) leaving 8 inches or so from the front glass to the rock pile and from the side glass to the edge of the pile. Using "Lace rock" or "Texas Holey Rock" is better than river rock because it twists and form many natural caves without depleting water volume and it locks into other large pieces causing it to be MUCH less likely to fall into the glass etc. The reason I say 8 inches from the front glass is just because rock dwellers like caves and you want them to not be able to disappear in your "reef" because it is so deep although you can come as close to the front wall as you want. I like to leave at least some space to clean the glass. You can pile lace rock nearly to the top which I would do because rockdwellers will follow the rocks and, therefore, use more of your tank than the bottom that most tangs use exclusively. Next, once you've built your reef on bare glass or eggcrate so the rocks don't slip when fish get digging, add 3/4's black sand and 1/4 dark brown for a really natural looking dark substrate. Cycle this tank however you like and then add:
-3 or 4 Altolamprologus Calvus Black 1male/2 or 3 females (you may start with 6 juvies and wait a year or two) Place 4 or 5 conches with openings big enough to fit 3 fingers or more into the center of the rock work keeping the large conches away from Caudopunctatus. I wouldn't even put the large conches in the tank until the Calvus were Spawning age because the Caudo's will inevitably claim one in the middle of the tank and takeover too much of it when they soawn. 
2 Caudopunctatus 1m/1fm ADD THESE LAST (Place a medium conch shell on the 8 inches of substrate on the right side of the tank and release the fish on that side so they'll find their spawning shell, hopefully)
3 Neolamprogus Stappersi (aka Meleagris) 1m/2fm (scatter 8 turbo snail shells with openings the size of your thumb tip on the left side of the tank increasing the concentration of shells the further you move to the left to keep Stappersi and Caudopunctatus from fighting during spawning. 
2 Julidichromis Transcriptus 1m/1fm A very cool "wrasse" type fish that slink through the rock upside down and every which way eating rogue fry and whatever else. 
If you can find one add 1 Lamprologus Furcifer, they are SO cool, black with orangeish heads and slight lyre tails over dark sand and swim a bit like Transcriptus. They are pricy but worth it.

Once you have Algae add 10 or 15 "Freshwater Nerite snails" which eat algae almost exclusively and do not multiply in freshwater. They're also long lived and they cost about $1.

I know this is long but I'm a real fat typist and I spend all my spare time staring at my tanks while posting on fish forums. I'm a total nerd I guess, Hope this helps.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

BioG, long is good but paragraphs help, LOL!


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

Wow thanks BioG, that helped alot, I think thats what I will do. Do you know any breeders that sell all of those species or will I just have to search for them?

Dont worry about being a nerd, I was the same way with poultry. I can talk about it all day and watch them for hours. Which I am finding out that cichlids are almost as addicting as poultry.


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## BioG (Oct 12, 2008)

Cichlids aren't as good with fries! :lol: but they are addicting!

Yeah, I gave up proper grammar because these forums don't let you indent.


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## BioG (Oct 12, 2008)

if you order them all online you can get them all at once and make your shipping cost worth it. May I suggest when you buy Calvus, look for those labeled "Ink Fin" they are just a different Congo location who's black coloring is stunning. All the species I described with the exception of Lamprologus Furcifer should be readily available in the northwest. If you have a reason to drive all the way to Portland there are quite a few breeders their and in Seattle, maybe even in Spokane though I just don't know of any.

(New Pharagraph  ) Online Reserve stock cichlids sells good looking fish. Blue chip aquatics and many others.


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

Cool thanks. I have been on aquabid and see some sellers in portland. But Porland and Seattle are at a mimimum of 6 hours from here. I might end up going there in the fall for a show but not any time soon. I will just have to google search for someone. I am pretty sure there arent any cichlid breeders in the Spokane area, I called the petstores and they said that they get them from the east coast for the most part. I know there are lots of people with convicts in our area, I see them for free on craigslist all the time, lol.


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

Oh what about plants? I like the look of live plants, would they do okay in the tank? I am also having a hard time finding lace rock and Texas holey rock in my area, I have called the rock shops with no luck so my next try are the pet shops. What about drift wood?


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## BioG (Oct 12, 2008)

Your best bet may be to look for an aquarium club in your area, they are fairly common. Some plants do fine in Tang setups but due to the high ph and hard water you should check threads about that. I don't know the first thing about plants so I'm the wrong guy for that.

I wouldn't put driftwood in there, it will tan the water and leach acid softening the water. you'd be alright with a small piece (6-8 in) but soft water isn't good and I don't like my water dyed brown.


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

Ah okay so maybe a fake plant then just for some variety.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

My tang tank is planted, but I've only had luck with a little extra lighting. I have Vallisneria (the key to success), java fern, crypts and anubias.

The anubias and java fern are attached to rocks. The vallisneria and crypts are planted in little polyester pockets of flourite and buried in the substrate.

The last time I planted vals, in one week I had a plant with runners that had created a new 5" tall plant!


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

Thanks DJRansom, I'll have to try that. I was able to find lace rock, one place has a few peices for $1.99 lb and another place has lots and some big chunks for $2.49 lb so I think I will check out the place with larger rocks first and maybe stop by and grab a couple small cheap peices. I am heading out to get the tank tonight. I am still looking for a breeder that will sell all thos species with cheap shipping. I think my laptop has a virus so when I go to google and search it brings up anti-virus sites and all and takes forever to search for something. I posted a want ad on a couple sites, now all I do is wait.


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## Lophura (Jul 18, 2009)

I found some more breeders but thought I'd call some of the fish stores in the area just to see. We have petco, petsmart, and 2 other pet stores that had no clue where to get the species I wanted. Then we have like 4 fish stores in the area and luckily I called today because one of the stores was getting ready to place an order in a couple hours and they said they can get whites for about $10 each or the black and inkfins for $15. She said she will order some of each so I can see what I like better but I am thinking I like the look of the whites. I asked about the other species and she said she has them. So by next wednesday I am going to have some calvus and such.

Now just wondering, I might want another pair of Calvus, maybe black or inkfin. What is the minimum size aquarium a pair would need? Could I keep a pair of white and a pair of black in the 55 gallon? Could I keep a single pair in a 29 gallon?

I am heading out to get the rest of the tank supplies like sand and lace rock.


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## fiupntballr (Jul 7, 2004)

I would avoid pet shops for rocks...
You can always some other rocks for substitute at the rock shops...


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

You would not want to combine calvus of different types in one aquarium because they will crossbreed and produce hybrids.

Don't forget, unless you are buying adult proven pairs (already produced fry together), if you buy only two you may wait 2 years for them to mature only to find out you have 2 males or they refuse to pair up. They like to choose their own mates. What we usually do is buy 6 unsexed juveniles and a pair will form when they are old enough. Then the remaining 4 unpaired fish are likely to be rejected and you remove them from the tank.


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## Lanaka (May 18, 2011)

(I know, its a new post on an old thread, but the subjects still relevant.)

Aloha all!

Am going to set up another 55g tank that will be a sorta-Tanganyika community tank. What I mean by "sorta" is that not all the flora and fauna will be strictly from the Lake. What I WILL try do is use similar species or species that are already found therein.

Ok already in the bag (or the tank, in this case), are 3 Altolamprologus calvus, one is a "Chaitika white," one is a "Congo Black Inkfin," and the last one is an unidentified specimen that may be another White. A quick question is that while I have no plans to breed these guys (except, maybe, for the White), will it be ok for these guys to be in the same tank? What I meant is, while they may be the "ultimate Tanganyikan community" member to other fishes, how well do they get along with other calvus (and comps for that matter).

Also going into the same tank are a colony of Neolamprologus multifasciatus. I've bought 5 (initially 2 then 3 more a month later) and already the original pair has already produced young. In fact, thinking the first two was not compatible, I bought 3 more in an attempt to get more breeding stock, only to get home to find free-swimming fries almost a quarter inch long (3mm to ye metric-minded members of this fine community). Oh well, I now have jump-started the colony's size. Thats ok, thats why I have the Calvus in there. Already the Black Inkfin thats in the same quarantine tank is on the job stalking the fries! Btw, fyi, the multis' water is the local Hawaiian tap water that has been seasoned in a 20L tank that has a 4000gph powerhead I keep running for this purpose.

For the top, I want an open water swimmer, *** originally had thought to get 10-12 Cyprichromis leptosoma "Utinta," but upon seeing the actual fish Im a bit disappointed in that theyre mostly boring. Only the top two males are usually fully colored. Id like to see most, if not all, of them nicely colored. While I like the idea of them providing additional food for the Calvus, I would like an alternative open-swimming, egg-scattering fish. Again, sucessful breeding is not a necessity, I just need em producing eggs. What other alt species would ye suggest? What about Congo Tetras?

Finally, the last question is what is a good algae eater that comes from the Lake (or from Africa, at least). While I do have an 'albino' blue-eyed bristle-nose pleco (Ancistrus spp.), Id prefer something more African. While I know many Mbunas are vegetarians, tohey are also too aggressive and may, due to their huge sizes (relatively), be a threat to the adult multis. Not to mention any plant I will have growing in the tank (more on this in Pt 2/2, I still have to do research on the correct species names of the plants I already have for this project).


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## Lanaka (May 18, 2011)

Part 2/2: Plants for the 55g Sorta-Tanganyikan Tank.

The tank conditions are local Hawaiian tap water that has been seasoned for at least a month in a 20g tank with a 4000gph powerhead. Light will be provided by a 4' shop light that has 2 fluorescent bulbs that specs at 6400k daylight, 40W and 4000 lumens each. Not exactly low light low tech, but thats how Im going to set up the tank as. Low maint display tank.

I already have a variety of plant species which will be going into the tank.

Anubias: hastefolius, lanceolatus, barteri "large leaf," nana, nana "gold leaf," nana "petite," and an unidentified species that has round leaves.

Java Fern: narrow leaf, needle leaf, broad leaf, windelov, and an unidentified "jumbo leaf" species.

Im also gonna try grow some java moss in the upper mid ranges of the tank, on top of the taller rocks.

While technically not a plant, Im going to put a couple sticks of mantzana driftwood for the blue eye pleco, if it is included in this tank.

What other species would you suggest? Im debating whether not to temporarily include some anacharis as algae control, at least until the other plants get themselves established.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Lanaka said:


> one is a "Chaitika white," one is a "Congo Black Inkfin," and the last one is an unidentified specimen that may be another White. A quick question is that while I have no plans to breed these guys (except, maybe, for the White), will it be ok for these guys to be in the same tank?


As mentioned, they will crossbreed. Any two males will fight (I had to remove a second male in my 72" tank). Might work if all three are females, but females don't get as large.



Lanaka said:


> Finally, the last question is what is a good algae eater that comes from the Lake (or from Africa, at least).


Synodontis, but they will bother the shellies. Mbuna will not clean algae...just eat enough to make polka dots in the algae blanket where they have bitten through. :thumb:


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## Lanaka (May 18, 2011)

DJRansome said:


> As mentioned, they will crossbreed. Any two males will fight (I had to remove a second male in my 72" tank). Might work if all three are females, but females don't get as large. :thumb:


Thanks for replying. Well, gonna have to wait a whiles to find out what sex they are. The White is about 2", the Inkfin is a tiny 1.25", and the unknown one is a 'whopping' 2.75" (and easily the most active one). If the big one turns out to be another White, I have no problems with taking the Inkfin out if there is a mix in sexes. Am I correct inferring that if the three are all females, then its safe to leave all three in this tank? Im not so concerned about the calvus' size as I intentionally included them as a population control of the multis, now that I have confirmation that they will breed and fries growing to size in unmodified Hawaiian water.



DJRansome said:


> Synodontis, but they will bother the shellies. Mbuna will not clean algae...just eat enough to make polka dots in the algae blanket where they have bitten through. :thumb:


*** looked at more than a few Synodontis, but had to reject them as most of them get quite huge. Hmm, if the mbunas are that, ...uuh spotty, in their algae cleanup, then it starting to sound like it'd my only real choice is to throw in the golden blue-eyed ancistrus. Else use Digitus scrubbicus,


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## mokujin22 (Jan 19, 2010)

BioG said:


> To support What JH said Cyps are a good choice with ALtos but not necessarily the "Best tank mates" as Altos will go well with about anything. I guess to reword it Cyps are more like Altos "best friends" as they bring the Altos out of the rocks and feed the altos their eggs which ALtos become really good at nabbing. So they're not the best if you're trying to breed Cyps. However, in a 50, I would pass on Cyps. IME, anything under 6 feet and they swim around running into the glass like crazed goldfish. Also, not to criticize Cyps in general but, IMO, they are WAY overrated. I like pretty colors and pretty interesting but Cyps do better in a bakers dozen and you will pay at the very least $10-$12 from a breeder (Shops charge $20-$30!) each. Let's say a dozen of these, at a good deal, runs you $120. What you then have to look forward to is one pretty fish (Not stunning just pretty) with 11 drab grey (Not even shiny) suckers following it around. I've even kept all male schools of cyps in which only one or two were colored up. Honestly male coloration doesn't even show up that well unless your observing them at a downward angle. at $2 each, for adults I'd have dozens of these fish anything more just isn't worth it for my taste. To be a total hypocrite I have always wanted a trio of Blue Orchid Cyps but then the forum would exile me because I wasn't keeping them in schools.


Still catching up after the ACA, but this made me chuckle something good. Funny, but you pretty much hit the nail on the head. :thumb:


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## Lanaka (May 18, 2011)

Looks like, after some researching, I'm going to go with the other option I recently read in another post in C-F. I'm going to go with another non-African algae eater: Malaysian Trumpet Snails. Noticed that they're doing a good job in another 55g tank I have and they're not too noticeable (during the day, that is). I've noticed that my pleco's a bit too aggressive in mowing down plants, even those supposed to be resistant to such treatments.

I've read of suggestions to import and use Nerite snails for algae control, but I'm personally not sure if I'll be able to get them shipped in to Hawai'i. I've already have heard of stories of the Feds confiscating shipments because it has snails in them. I don't think I'd wanna try ship in snails only to have them confiscated cuz there's snails in them! :roll:

Plus, most LFS here will GIVE the MTS away on request! Can't say no to freebies, huh? Kinda funny now that nearly a year later, after I spent much time and $ to control snail populations in my tanks (normally don't like having snails in my tanks). I'm NOW looking to ADD snails to a tank of mine!

OTOH, I may actually just go with the other option, leave the algae in there to grow into hairy growth, as I've read that much of L. Tang. is like that anyway. If so, I guess I'll just use Digitae scrubbicus to keep the front glass clean.

-Lance


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Yes, many of us spend a lot of time trying to get RID of MTS. Be careful not to overfeed.


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## Lanaka (May 18, 2011)

DJRansome said:


> Yes, many of us spend a lot of time trying to get RID of MTS. Be careful not to overfeed.


Heh, I dont mind em TOO much. Shouldve specified that the snails I was trying to get rid of is the one thats shaped like a cowrie, I think thats the one they call a pond snail. That one, along with the apple/mystery snas, tend to be destructive on my plants.

MTS and, to a lesser extent, the ramshorn snail tends to mainly munch on algae and leftover foods. Also I like the MTS because they are a natural substrate burrowers, which help aereate the soil. A very good thing if you have planted tanks with ground cover.


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## reflexhunter (Jul 25, 2009)

You might try giant danios as dithers,very active,had them in my tank for a while,might go back with them, cool little fish.


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