# FX5/AC110 questions



## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

Ok so I've been battling a snail infestation in my 125 that came out of nowhere. Today I took down my fx5 and cleaned everything out and found a bunch of snails in the sponges and filter. My maintenance schedule had been great (as confirmed by healthy fish and water test that was showing great numbers). A couple of weeks ago my nitrate was a bright red which was strange so I started looking into it and found the snails at night.

After buying a few clown loaches they've done a marvelous job at eating the smaller ones but i still see quite a few in there. I've significantly reduced feeding and current stock has changed but I'm still wanting to resolve this high nitrate problem because the tank is supposed to be my focal point for a Calvus and compressicep colony that are currently in a 55.

My questions are can sponges for the fx5 and ac 110 be boiled or anything to lengthen the life? Or should I just toss them at the manufacturer recommended 2 months? Also, what can I do to make sure my
Bio filtration is good if I get rid of the two ac110's? They are putting micro bubbles in my tank and its very annoying.

How much bio should I have in each tray of the fx5?

The tank currently sits with 6 brichardi, 4 clown loaches, and 5 BN plecos. Would potentially be adding 10 juvie muzi gold heads and 5 black Congo white pearls. At that point I would probably move the brichardi to a 72bow by themselves.

Snails in the filter









Nitrate reading a couple weeks ago


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I don't recommend boiling the sponge filters in either the FX5 or the AC110's, it won't help them last any longer. I only replace the sponge filter media when it starts to disinegrate.

You can put as much bio media in the FX5 as you want, as long as the media trays still stack properly.

I have never experienced a problem with micro bubbles from the AquaClear filters unless the water level of the tank was low. I keep the water level close to the lip of the filter output.

What is your water change schedule and percentage of water change? The easiest way to reduce nitrates is to increase the amount and/or frequency of your water changes.


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

Thank you for your reply. The sponges are still fine but they are definitely dirty and have snails in them. It's frustrating. What other sort of biomedia should I put in the fx5? Do I even need to? I guess I'm asking what sort of bio load would cause a spike like this.

I've been doing weekly 50% water changes for forever, every Sunday morning. I can increase that but up until this snail infestation I'd been fine.

So you don't replace the sponges? I'd say these sponges have been going for about a year now. No disentegrating.


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

This was a few hours after 60% WC and filter cleaning


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Are you sure you are following the nitrate test kit directions exactly? You really need to shake the #2 bottle for at least 30 seconds before adding it to the test tube.

Have you tried testing your tap water to see if you also have nitrates there?

I also have MTS, Malaysian Trumpet snails, in a tank that is filtered by an FX5. I've never had good luck getting the sponge inserts clean enough so I now put them in a clean washing machine and run it on gentle cycle to remove the dirt. A quick dip in a prepared dechlorinator solution will remove any chlorine for those on treated water systems. I also use a fine mesh strainer on the washing machine discharge hose to prevent any MTS from getting out of my home and into the environment. The FX5 is not the only filter on the tank so I have not had any issues with maintaining beneficial bacteria.

Any quality bio-media will work in your filter. I like Seachem Pond Matrix because it is larger and won't fall through the holes in the media trays. Just buy whatever is on sale and if it's too small, just put it in a media bag.


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## cichlid-gal (Apr 27, 2012)

bwestgsx06 said:


> I've been doing weekly 50% water changes for forever, every Sunday morning. I can increase that but up until this snail infestation I'd been fine.


You could have old tank syndrome...this is where the nitrates in your tank "creep" up as your fish age and grow and produce more waste (snails included I suppose but I'm not sure about that) and you keep doing the same water change schedule. There is a pretty good video (posted down below, not my video but info that I have read before and he just talks about it) that discusses how this happens...basically what you have to do now is get your nitrates down (through increased water changes) and figure out what water change schedule works the best to keep those nitrates in check. Keeping your filters clean is also important...I have my AC110's on a 3 week cleanout and the FX5 on a 4-5 week cleanout - and its the sponges that I clean thoroughly and if needed dip and swish the biomedia if there has been buildup. Another idea would be to pick up replacement foam (I used Poret foam for making my own sponge media) and cut your own replacements for the filters. Having a 2nd set would allow you to dry out the 1st set, shake out the snails, then switch the old ones for the new ones on the next maintenance and so on and so on. Maybe won't erradicate the snails but it might cut down on the number of them in your filter.

Anyway...just a thought.


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## POPSS (Aug 24, 2013)

I do not agree with this guy and testing and water testing schedules. IMHO water change at 20ppm, his basics are right, just think you shuold test your water allot more often, i have to water change even the 175 every 5 days or so. 1, 9+" oscar, 1 6' JD, 1 6" bulls eye cat and a 8" pleco.

6" jag in a 95 alone. same schedule. baby JD tank can go longer but change while at it. wifes 75g glo tank every 4 days, around 30 little guys. all water changes 70% min. going a week between water changes just does not work for me. Just my opinion. going a month and half between water tests just out of the question. let alone weekly or bi weekly water changes.


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

Ya I'm performing the nitrate tests right. It's just frustrating that they ballooned like this.

Do you guys shut off your filters when you do WC's? I will probably do another big WC tomorrow and see where the nitrates are at (there's none in my tap), and ya I bought second set of sponges to rotate out. In the meantime *** been catching snails and putting them in a bucket - what's the best way to kill these guys? I can't dump them and using a hammer on hundreds doesn't seem right.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Have you checked the nitrate level of your tap water yet? If so, what is the result?

I only turn my filters off during a water change if the amount of water removed will expose the intake strainer of my canister filters. I always have to shut off the power filters (HOB) as even a 2" inch drop in tank water level breaks the suction.

MTS have very hard shells so the advice I've seen is whack em with a hammer, put the remains in a plastic bag, freeze them for a few days and then dispose of them in the trash. I don't know of a humane way to kill them. You can keep them under control in the aquarium if you don't overfeed your fish but I haven't had much luck with that.


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

No nitrates in tap.

I literally have caught hundreds of these **** snails. I know they're part of the ecosystem and their numbers definitely seem to be falling, but I have them in their own 5 gallon bucket and I'm wondering how the heck they still live, and what's the best way to kill them all in the bucket.


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## cichlid-gal (Apr 27, 2012)

I've read that adding lots of salt might do the trick? Not sure though...what about bleach???? And if they are pests I don't worry about the humane thing...we put powder down for ants that set up shop at the base of our front porch and I don't worry about whether that is humane or not. Just my way of thinking about it.

Oh and to catch them in the tank I have used lettuce as bait...but that's not in a cichlid tank...maybe put it in at night and get it early in the am before lights on and see what you have? Keep at it till the counts are down.


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## B.Roberson (Nov 6, 2011)

also make sure you wait 24 hrs after a wc if using prime or another dechlorinator to test nitate.. it will give you false readings.


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

Ya I've slowly been ridding myself of the snails but also been doing bigger WC's and have seen a drastic dip in nitrates. Right now I believe mine are somewhere in between 5-20ppm. It's tough to tell what shade of orange they are, but they aren't red! I don't want to keep bleaching a bucket because that would be a pain and not smell very great, but I may have to.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

B.Roberson said:


> also make sure you wait 24 hrs after a wc if using prime or another dechlorinator to test nitate.. it will give you false readings.


Source?


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## Kalost (Feb 27, 2013)

http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/s ... php?t=3983


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## walzon1 (Jun 17, 2013)

Your Nitrate problem and snail problem might be related. Malaysian Trumpet Snails Are really cool, they are nocturnal so if you think you have a lot you should look at the tank 3-4 hours after lights out as there are problem hundreds more. The bad they reproduce like crazy as you know, but as a benefit they turn your aquarium substrate constantly this might be why you nitrates are getting worse lately. Another bad is that you can't get rid of them, the only thing to do is to remove as much waste as possible from the substrate and you will slow the down that's about it. I never had a problem with them, they never caused problems to any of my equipment or plants and they turned my soil for me, win! win!


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## B.Roberson (Nov 6, 2011)

GTZ said:


> B.Roberson said:
> 
> 
> > also make sure you wait 24 hrs after a wc if using prime or another dechlorinator to test nitate.. it will give you false readings.
> ...


ummm well i have heard it here especially when cycling to wait 24 hrs after declor to test nitrate. but if im wrong i stand corrected, i am a nobody to water quality. several members here i have seen reply to that you need to wait 24 hrs to test nitrate before getting an acurrate reading of nitrate? Maybe it was nitrite????? idk? am i missing something?


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## Kalost (Feb 27, 2013)

B.Roberson said:


> GTZ said:
> 
> 
> > B.Roberson said:
> ...


http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/s ... php?t=3983


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## cichlid-gal (Apr 27, 2012)

Kalost - good share on that thread but I am still not sure that it answers the question of water testing time after introduction of the product and results therein. I do not believe that the "binding" makes the results of the water testing inaccurate in any way...it simply makes the toxins less damaging for a time being. I recall various readings on this topic. Here's another article on cycling and high levels after cycling that might be of help with this question also. Read *Section 9* in particular.

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/nitrogen_cycle.html#denitrification

This article indicates that even if the materials are "bound" they are still there just in a less toxic form. So testing should remain the same...I think. :lol:


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

I think there may be a couple of facts being mixed. As far as I know, Prime doesn't affect nitrite or nitrate readings once dosed. 
However, if there is chloramine in your tap water, Prime breaks the chemical bond of chloramine, producing ammonia and chlorine, both of which are then bound and rendered non-toxic. There will be an ammonia reading until such time as the ammonia oxidizing bacteria consume the ammonia, or imidium salt, as Seachem calls it.
The other fact that I think may be getting mixed in is that nitrate readings can be skewed if there's nitrite content in your water. The same is possible for nitrite readings if there is ammonia present.


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## B.Roberson (Nov 6, 2011)

bwestgsx06 ,,i was not trying to bust your thread. BUt thanxx others for clarification on prime and nirtrate/nitrite testing..
hope your isasue is getting resolved though. good luck,


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

no big deal and you guys are fine... I've bookmarked those links to read and recommend to other people in the future as it appears there is some good information in there.

In regards to my MTS problem... I guess I will just have to do higher WC's and vacuum the sand much better in order to to try and slow them down. It is frustrating that they are in the filters but my nitrates are down to 10-20 ppm now anyways and my clown loaches enjoy eating the snails they find.


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