# Ammonia level never "0"...



## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

I've had this 55g planted tank going now for 4-5 months. 8 african cichlids. I have my original Fluval C4 still running and almost 2 weeks ago I added a Fluval 306 canister filter. I'm changing out 15g each week. I've always wondered why (according to the API color chart) my ammonia levels are never zero. The Color seems to be between zero and 0.25ppm. Is that ok? Nitrates are consistently around 10ppm.


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## amcvettec (May 11, 2012)

What does your tap water read?


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

I only use RO water from the LFS. The only time I used tap water was on first setup and cycle.


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## walzon1 (Jun 17, 2013)

seems to me your C4 can't handle the bio load. Addition of the Fluval is a great idea but it hasnt had time be effective. Its gonna take 3 weeks to a month maybe more for the canister to colonize enough bacteria to bring your levels down. I would cut my feeding in half if not more till the levels stabilize.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

I agree with the overfeeding idea, those fish look like they dont ever miss a meal to me.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

Have you tested the RO water for comparison? With that filter and all your plants I would be surprised if the tank actually had measurable ammonia.


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## mclaren880 (May 20, 2012)

Personally, i think it's hard to tell the difference between the yellow and green once you get really close to zero. If you're that close to 0, however, i agree with everyone else, just cut the feedings down in the short term and give it a chance to catch up. Even a week with reduced feeding will probably get you to where you need to be, then just start to slowly increase the feedings until you get to where you want to be. That's what i would do, at least.


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

I've been feeding them a small pinch of NLS small sinking with a small pinch of Omega One large sinking pellets (~6 pellets) once a day for about the last week and a half. Is this amount once per day a decent target? These guys just about come out of the tank when I stand in front of it...


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

And no I never thought to test their RO water. Guess I'll go try that now.


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## twankyfive2 (Sep 19, 2012)

It's almost impossible to get those tests to read absolute zero. Test the tap water for comparison - I bet it's pretty close.

I always get a SLIGHTLY green result that is just the tiniest bit above the yellow. But it's nowhere near as green as the .25.

After doing some research I also learned that the .25 is total ammonia or something. Im not a chemist, so I'm going to butcher the facts with this. But apparently only a certain percentage of total ammonia is harmful..and that varies with temp and PH. So at .25 it's actually a bit lower than that.

Thus, if you're barely reading anything at all then you probably have nothing to worry about. But reduced feedings and continued water changes are never a bad idea.


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## SOU812 (Jun 11, 2013)

Just wondering why you are using RO water,knowing what the ph and kh of your tank water could help


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

I tested a sample of the RO water for ammonia and the color still does not come out "yellow" like the API chart indicates, just slightly green. My tapwater tested darker. Below is a pic of them 5 minutes later.


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

SOU812 said:


> Just wondering why you are using RO water,knowing what the ph and kh of your tank water could help


I don't really know why just that I saw a lot of references to people using RO water for their change outs on fish forums. I guess if the ammonia level is a lot lower in the RO than my florida tap water that would be a reason.

Still learning all the ins and outs. This is a lot more work than I thought it would be but I like having the tank a lot more than I guessed I would.


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## walzon1 (Jun 17, 2013)

Regardless you now realize the test kits are just a guide they are not perfect. The fact that your tap water has Ammonia in it sucks you could still use it I would double the dosage with Prime in order to make sure it gets removed by your filtration before it can do damage to your fish. African cichlid require higher PH levels so its not advised to use RO water, Discus for example require RO water, so it all depends on what fish you're keeping.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Kit expired?

Try testing some bottled water. Compare that with your RO, tap and tank water.


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

walzon1 said:


> Regardless you now realize the test kits are just a guide they are not perfect. The fact that your tap water has Ammonia in it sucks you could still use it I would double the dosage with Prime in order to make sure it gets removed by your filtration before it can do damage to your fish. African cichlid require higher PH levels so its not advised to use RO water, Discus for example require RO water, so it all depends on what fish you're keeping.


Yes I always up the pH of the RO water before I add it. Its around 7 and I up it till its around 7.8 before I add it. I guess as long as the color reads .25 or lower I'm ok. Hopefully this will get better as the canister filter comes online more and more.


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## SOU812 (Jun 11, 2013)

I suggest letting some tap water sit for 24 hrs,and then test for ammonia,ph,kh and if you like to test your gh
I suspect you are better off using your tap water,as long as you aren't on a water softener
I would also test your tank waters' ph and kh


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Since it's a planted tank i'm curious, are you using ferts? I do know plant ferts showcase/create ammonia. Decaying plants can create ammonia. On monsterfish i know a lot of other florida guys have ammonia in their tap water too regardless of it being well water or system water. Is yours tap or system? I didnt see it asked, figured i'd ask.


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> Since it's a planted tank i'm curious, are you using ferts? I do know plant ferts showcase/create ammonia. Decaying plants can create ammonia. On monsterfish i know a lot of other florida guys have ammonia in their tap water too regardless of it being well water or system water. Is yours tap or system? I didnt see it asked, figured i'd ask.


Our tap water is system water here. I do add a capful of Seachem Flourish about once per week.


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

SOU812 said:


> I suggest letting some tap water sit for 24 hrs,and then test for ammonia,ph,kh and if you like to test your gh
> I suspect you are better off using your tap water,as long as you aren't on a water softener
> I would also test your tank waters' ph and kh


Ok I went out and got the Hagen Nutrafin KH/GH test kit to test the tank water. For GH I added 5 drops (100mg/L) and for the KH 3 drops changed it from blue to practically clear, 1 more drop changed it to a pale yellow. Should I count that as 3.5 drops maybe? I suppose my pH is now lower because of the new CO2 injection. It used to run 7.8 ish. Now its down to 7.4 maybe a tiny bit lower. Is that ok for these fish?


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## SOU812 (Jun 11, 2013)

I think you will be chasing your ph all the time,your kh is pretty low and its all starting by using RO water,let us know your tap water values after its been sitting for 24 hrs,if you have an air stone,adding that to the container will be good,but not necessary...ammonia,ph,kh


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

SOU812 said:


> I think you will be chasing your ph all the time,your kh is pretty low and its all starting by using RO water,let us know your tap water values after its been sitting for 24 hrs,if you have an air stone,adding that to the container will be good,but not necessary...ammonia,ph,kh


Will do.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

HDIXON said:


> CrypticLifeStyle said:
> 
> 
> > Since it's a planted tank i'm curious, are you using ferts? I do know plant ferts showcase/create ammonia. Decaying plants can create ammonia. On monsterfish i know a lot of other florida guys have ammonia in their tap water too regardless of it being well water or system water. Is yours tap or system? I didnt see it asked, figured i'd ask.
> ...


If your going to keep using ro water seachem equilibrium would be a good idea. It restores a lot of the loss of nutrients, and minerals to the water for plants.


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

HDIXON said:


> SOU812 said:
> 
> 
> > I think you will be chasing your ph all the time,your kh is pretty low and its all starting by using RO water,let us know your tap water values after its been sitting for 24 hrs,if you have an air stone,adding that to the container will be good,but not necessary...ammonia,ph,kh
> ...


Tested the tap water after letting it sit for a day.

the GH was 1 drop so below 20mg/L
th4 KH was 3 drops so ~30mg/L

Do I understand correctly that my kh should be above 80mg/L? Will adding the seachem equilibrium do this?


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

http://www.seachem.com/support/Calculat ... anted.html
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp

I wouldnt worry about KH too much


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## HDIXON (Jun 22, 2013)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> http://www.seachem.com/support/Calculators/Dose_planted.html
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp
> 
> I wouldnt worry about KH too much


Ok I'll find out where I should be on those measurements and try those calculators. Thanks mucho!


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