# What type of 2x4's do you use to build your stands?



## Cursor (Jan 4, 2005)

I was wondering what type of 2x4's do you use to build your stands? Is there anything particular you look for or do you just go to home depot and pick out straight 2x4 studs?


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## brandon O (Oct 23, 2010)

i would go for treated ones in case you get water on them. just an opinion :thumb:


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## Icey101 (Nov 5, 2007)

I didnt think you were supposed to use treated lumber for indoor projects?


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## DrgRcr (Jun 23, 2009)

I don't use any(3/4" plywood), but if I did, I wouldn't use the pressure treated ones for indoor use. I'd use standard pine and either paint or stain them.


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## fmueller (Jan 11, 2004)

If you ask 2 DIY fish keepers if you should use treated or untreated lumber, chances are you'll get at least 3 different opinions. Personally I have always used treated lumber to safe myself the trouble of painting or staining the things. It's never caused a problem for me, but of course if you prefer to be ultra cautious it won't do any harm either :thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I would not use treated due to the moisture content. They are really wet and tend to warp far more than dry. As to water contact, it bother me far less to think of my wood rotting than wondering if it will twist or warp. Check some signs alongside the highways and you may see the warping.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I prefer the untreated, straightest pine 2 x 4's for my stands. There is no way I will have pressure treated wood inside my home.


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## fmueller (Jan 11, 2004)

_Treated 2x4 frame for cabinet._









_Finished cabinet for 125G tank_

For more photos click here.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I will agree that the treated can be used and IF it is tied down correctly, it will stay straight enough. The problem with many novice builders is that they are struggling to put the boards together. Knowing how well treated lumber needs to be fastened is outside their range. Then there is the question of what happens over time. Have you considered what the treated lumber is doing to the carpeting? Working on dock and deck building and sliding around on my rump, I found it takes the color out of my clothes much like bleach does only slower.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

I would have to find my literature on PT wood, but the old type, using copper arsenate, is not supposed to leach out. If I remember correctly, it was approved for well cribbing.


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## Cursor (Jan 4, 2005)

So using whatever's cheap and straight from home depot is fine for building stands?

I don't need to look for kiln dried 2x4's and 2x6's and so on? Is that somewhat accurate?

I've never built a stand before, just wanted to make sure I'm headed in the right direction.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

All the construction 2 x 4s you find in the store should be kiln dried. However, my experience with "kiln dried" is that they must have drove the truck through the kiln on the way to the store. It seems that much of it is still very wet. If I remember correctly, kiln dried lumber is supposed to be 20% moisture. I have seen more than a few that squirted water when you drove the nail. That would make it about 80%. Regardless, pick your own that are straight and light in weight. 2 x 4s are over kill for most stands, so the quality/grade is not critical, other than you want it to be straight to make it easier to work with. Sometimes you can buy what are called "trimline" studs, which are slightly smaller than regular 2 x 4s, but are much cheaper and work just as well.


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## jason_nj (Feb 24, 2010)

I built 2 stands one for a 110 gallon and a custom stand 94 inches long to hold my 125gallon and 2 40 gallon breeders on the bottom shelf and I used the cheapest 2x4 that Home Depot had. I believe the wood was Douglas Fir and they came out fine. I did spray on enamel paint to help them fight moisture.


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## fmueller (Jan 11, 2004)

I am not on a treated lumber advertising crusade. :lol:

I've also built a pergola and a carport from treated lumber in the last few years, and yes, there is some warping in parts that were really wet when I bought them. In stands for fish tanks I never have pieces running unsupported by another part for more than 3'. I also try to pick dry pieces in the store. The carpet under the 125G shown above is fine after several years of having the tank in operation.

In summary, people should use what they have available and are comfortable with. I am only saying that for me the advantages of treated lumber outweigh the disadvantages.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

brandon O said:


> i would go for treated ones in case you get water on them. just an opinion :thumb:


Treated wood shrinks, warps, and twists more than regular wood. That alone makes it a bad choice for an indoor project. The toxic chemicals injected into the wood can leach out or decompose over time, creating more of a hazard indoors where rain and wind does not carry this away or dilute it.


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## JALOOS (Sep 6, 2008)

Has anyone put any thought into whether there will be small children around the treated lumber used indoors. Seems to me a ton of old playgrounds that used treated wood are being ripped out due to the toxidity of it.

Something to ponder.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

JALOOS said:


> Has anyone put any thought into whether there will be small children around the treated lumber used indoors. Seems to me a ton of old playgrounds that used treated wood are being ripped out due to the toxidity of it.
> 
> Something to ponder.


 How about what it might do to our pets, our fish, and our houseplants!


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

CCA and ACQ PT lumber is a poor choice for indoor use. They will leach as they age and dry out. Outdoors this is not noticeable where it is in contact with weather. Indoors it will be apparent as a dusty talc on the wood over time.

PT lumber is saturated under pressure and will shrink, warp, and twist worst than any Spruce Fir would indoors. If aged (dry) when purchased it splits easily when nailed. For the most part it will be covered but why spend an extra dollar unecessarily.

Most of the Box stores carry SPF and people will buy that first as it looks white ( ooh pretty) and has very little sap. SPF is a bit harder to work with as it can split easily. KD SPF can warp badly and longer pieces will need to braced.

Doug Fir is a better choice to work with as it retains its shape better and is a bit softer when sun dried as opposed to kiln dried SPF but most people get turned away when they see all that sap. I use DF primarily for residential construction. It costs a few pennies more than SPF.

Hem fir is prolly the best choice for the weekend warrier, nails easily, relatively soft when sun dried, has little sap and is pretty stable.

FWIW


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## cichbillyia (Sep 11, 2010)

treated wood will rust/eat nails and screws unless galvanized or stainless steel ... im sure outdoor coated ones would be good to ... just dont use normal nails or drywall screws ... get the good outdoors ones!


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## fmueller (Jan 11, 2004)

OK, I live in a toxic wasteland. So be it opcorn:


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