# New guy with a new set up!



## RandyS (Feb 6, 2015)

After a 25 year hiatus I'm planning a new African tank. Man, things have really changed since the pre-internet days when you went into a local pet shop and picked out the fish just because they LOOKED cool! I've learned more in the past two weeks than the entire time while actually keeping fish. It's a wonder I ever kept them alive back then! LOL

I'd like to list out the components I'm considering (or already ordered) and get everyone's opinion. Any input would be appreciated. Don't worry, you won't hurt my feelings.

I've ordered a 90 gallon acrylic tank with a trapezoid overflow on the center of the back. The tank is 48" long x 18" wide x 24" tall. I would have rather had the 60" version but the only wall I have to locate the tank is 4' long. I also agonized over the 24" depth knowing that the top of the tank may not even be used by the fish but I figured the extra volume would be good for stability and I'll need to get creative to get the rocks (whatever I decide on) to stack closer to the top of the water. I'm targeting the 10x water change-over rate I've read that's important with cichlids so the overflow has an 1-1/2" drain with an 1-1/2 Durso standpipe. I've found a lot of discrepancy on how quickly this should drain but, somewhere on the net (it's true if it's on the net right?), I found a formula that told me the drain should run 1,325 GPH and the Durso web site claims the standpipe will flow 1,200 GPH. I don't know exactly how accurate these numbers are but both are over my 900 GPH target so that's good. Although, I have no idea how fast the water can pass over the weir. The return line from the pump is 3/4' diameter.

On the filter I wanted to make it the best I could so I'm planning on a wet/dry sump filter. I've only had HOB filters in the past so this is entirely new to me. After considering the Eshopps wet/dry I came across the Aqueon Proflex filter and was really impressed with it. It just looks like they put a lot more thought into their design. It's got substantial prefilters (socks) and also a post filter after the bio balls. I'm looking at the largest I can fit in the cabinet which will probably be the model #3. I've read numbers of 1,650 GPH but find it hard to believe you can get that much through the one intake pipe.

The pump. After doing more research I ordered the Iwaki MD30RLXT (the Japanese version). This is an external pump so I'll install a bulkhead in the end of the third sump chamber. A submersible pump just didn't appeal to me and the external pumps just look a lot more robust. This pump has an 1" input and output with a GPH of roughly 1,100-1,000 at about 3-4 foot of head. I'll install a ball valve between the pump and the tank so I can tune down the pressure easily.

That's a far as I've gotten so far. Am I on the right track?
Thanks gang.


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

First off it looks like you have got it all sorted out , secondly what you read on the net is not always true, I read that you could keep a Oscar cichlid in a 5 gallon !!!!!!!! So ya the internet is not always true ! just remember that you need to replace things like bio balls and filter pads etc so you need to know where to get replacements for everything ! 
Best of luck to you 
Jordan.


----------



## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

Bon jour.


----------



## The Cichlid Guy (Oct 18, 2014)

Filter pads should be changed when they're old and dirty, but bio balls never need to be replaced. If they become clogged, you can rinse them in tank water.


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

I replace my bio balls one every two months and my filter pads once a month and it works for me so that's why I suggested it to you , I guess it is ones personal preference !


----------



## joescaper1 (Feb 14, 2013)

The only time I replace bio material, is when I use some to start another filter. Otherwise, I just rinse them once a year in tank water.


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

As I said I guess it is ones personal preference  I prefer changing mine more regularly because of bad bacteria and gunk (fish poo)etc


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I have never replaced my bio media...going on 10 years now. I wash off the gunk and not aware of any bad bacteria. Even in a HOB I wash the filter cartridge until it falls apart.


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

Its just what I do i guess ! :lol:


----------



## RandyS (Feb 6, 2015)

Thanks for the responses. I'll definitely buy extra filter socks. It would probably be easier to rotate them anyway so one set can be cleaned and dried.

I've been researching heaters and wow, there's a lot of different opinions on this subject. Some people believe in the two heater method and some not. I've even read some heated (pardon the pun) arguments on different forums. Some make the point that two smaller heaters will protect against the heater malfunctioning in the closed position and over heating the water. There are people who claim to have lost their fish because of this. This sounds like a legitimate possibility to guard against. The counter argument states this isn't a concern if you size the heater properly to your tank (not too powerful) although I have to believe that this too could over heat the water if the aquarium was left unattended over a long weekend. I've also read that two heaters running in tandem will never be synced together and one will be doing all the work and have a hard time keeping up because it's undersized. I can understand this happening. There are other people recommending setting the internal heater thermostat to a higher than normal setting and using an external temperature control. This way you would need TWO components malfunctioning at the same time to boil the tank. This seems to be an attractive option if you wanted to design in some redundancy.

From what I've read everyone seems to have high regard for the Eheim models so I've been looking at them. The problem I have though is I plan on laying the heater in the bottom of the sump and the 300 watt model (or even the 200 & 250) are too long for the sump I'm planning on buying. The only solution I see is buying two 150 watt heaters and using a temperature control to make them run at the same time. Either they're both on or both off. This method would be a lot more expensive. Is there a better way to do it?

Thanks again!


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

Well Randy it is then time to go old school and just plonk a heater inside the main tank !! There is not other option if you don't want to use the two small ones in the sump filter method, I don't see any other method?


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I like in-line heaters with canisters. On my 75G I use 2 canisters and 2 in-line heaters.


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

Do that then !


----------



## firefighter5 (Nov 25, 2014)

RandyS said:


> Thanks for the responses. I'll definitely buy extra filter socks. It would probably be easier to rotate them anyway so one set can be cleaned and dried.
> 
> I've been researching heaters and wow, there's a lot of different opinions on this subject. Some people believe in the two heater method and some not. I've even read some heated (pardon the pun) arguments on different forums. Some make the point that two smaller heaters will protect against the heater malfunctioning in the closed position and over heating the water. There are people who claim to have lost their fish because of this. This sounds like a legitimate possibility to guard against. The counter argument states this isn't a concern if you size the heater properly to your tank (not too powerful) although I have to believe that this too could over heat the water if the aquarium was left unattended over a long weekend. I've also read that two heaters running in tandem will never be synced together and one will be doing all the work and have a hard time keeping up because it's undersized. I can understand this happening. There are other people recommending setting the internal heater thermostat to a higher than normal setting and using an external temperature control. This way you would need TWO components malfunctioning at the same time to boil the tank. This seems to be an attractive option if you wanted to design in some redundancy.
> 
> ...


You are way overthinking it.Just buy a good one.Name brand.Eheim,jager etc.I have an inline eheim with a canister filter,works great.I also have a jager in tank heater.Works great.Sure you can get two in your tank if you want.How many things do you want to duplicate though?Im of the opinion of just get one good proven heater and be done with it.


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

I agree with firefighter5 , don't think about it too much! Just get one really good one and you will be over and done with it !


----------



## RandyS (Feb 6, 2015)

LOL

You guys sound like my wife! She tells me that all the time! ROFL
Hey, learning all I can is part of the fun of learning a new hobby for me. Okay, okay, maybe I over think it just a LITTLE bit. 
hahahahaha.......

ANYWAY, it looks like I need 200 watts to heat my tank. I KNOW I don't want the heater in the tank and the sump is too small for a 200 watt heater. I'll just need to buy a couple of smaller Eheims and put them in the sump to get the 200 watts.

How's that?


----------



## The Cichlid Guy (Oct 18, 2014)

That should be fine. :thumb:


----------



## Jordan Botha (Feb 1, 2015)

You "might be overthinking this a little" ? :lol: :lol: well I think that it will work ! I use an in line heaterb and I'm lovin it!


----------

