# Ceramic DIY backgrounds



## joevc1 (Dec 17, 2007)

I've been having a hard time finding the type of rocks to match what I already have in the tank. I want to create a background that will coverup as much of the background as I can.

I've looked at the DIY foam and the Acquaterra backgrounds, but I'm thinking this would be easier, less costly and quicker to install one that is finished before it goes into the tank. I really don't have a place to move my fish untill silicone cures and cement is out of the question.

So, has anyone ever worked with ceramic clay for aquarium decoration (rocks)? If It could be fashioned to look like the existing rocks and I can then create a background that will fit into my tank opening. Also, I want it to be thin enough so that I'm not taking up so much water volume.

I have seen the cheap "No Fishing" ceramic decorations for sale but does anyone know if I made my own, had it painted and fired (no glaze) would it cause a problem for the fish and/or effect the water? Would the paint used by people to create ceramic pieces be ok or should I try something more suited for the aquarium?


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## bibbs68 (Dec 1, 2006)

I've often wondered this same thing. I have a friend who does alot of sculpting and I keep meaning to ask her if this is something that she would be willing to do.

I don't have proof, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. I would suspect that if you used acrylic water based paint you should have no problems.


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## dcbutner (Oct 13, 2007)

make it like a plate or mug for food use,only shaped like rocks


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

you can use ceramic clay if you make sure that the clay is "non-toxic" and "dinnerware safe" Those to things must be there or don't purchase it. The same goes for glazes.


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## Cento (Mar 30, 2005)

ooooooh.. Now I am very intrigued...... opcorn:

Post if you get any further news on this or plan to start yourself... I always thought about DIY, but I live in an apartment, and I don't have the space, time, money, and patience for the curing and coating and double soaking, and the days and days...

If this turns out to be easier and faster, I'd be interested in doing it myself...

Keep us posted!!


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

I'm definatley going to be trying it. I think clay would be a good medium. You can put in the detail work and even use real rock to make impressions on it. I'll start a thread once it gets really rolling, right now I'm just in the drawing phase. :thumb:


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## Gerry Binczik (Jan 30, 2005)

I've obtained some of this self-hardening synthetic clay (actually I bought the Apoxie Sculpt) for this purpose, but I haven't had a chance to work with it yet...

http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/products.html


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## Cento (Mar 30, 2005)

That epoxy sounds cool.... my only concern with all this is exposed paint and curious mbuna nibbling... In the case of ceramic, I gather the glaze would solve my issue, but in other cases, such as this epoxy, would there be a coat of resin or "glaze" over the painted surface?


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

you actually don't have to glaze the ceramic if you don't want to. If the clay is non toxic and dinnerware safe. I always see those ceramic tank decorations and they aren't even fully glazed if you take a look at the bottom. Only the outside is usually glazed, plus most are hollow so water comes in contact with the inside (bare) ceramic.

I wonder what they use to color and paint the popular poly-resin tank ornaments, you can find at Petco and Petsmart. I've been looking at the Back to Nature models, and it looks like they might be made of poly-resin or plastic too.

I plan to make a mold out of the ceramic background I'm going to be working on, then mess with poly-resins and such later. But I'm still going to need to color the ceramic background I make...I'm just leary about the glazes and color availibility and such.


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## Gerry Binczik (Jan 30, 2005)

According to the information available online concerning Apoxie products:

"Both ApoxieÂ® Sculpt, and FIXITÂ® are UV resistant, waterproof, weather proof, and incredibly durable. ApoxieÂ® Clay is very strong, but the others are superior in this regard. FIXITÂ® is also very resistant to fuels. We soaked cured cubes of ApoxieÂ® Sculpt and FIXITÂ® in nitro-methane (radio control car fuel), and after a day the ApoxieÂ® Sculpt was slightly softened, but the FIXIT appeared unaffected, and was still impossible to scratch with a fingernail.

The best part about Aves products is that they are non-toxic, non-flammable, user friendly, and non-hazardous synthetic clays..."

(I'm not associated with the company, but I'm a definite fan of its products. :thumb: )


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

OMG your a life saver! Thanks! This is going to be so much easier! I'm thinking about trying the Apoxie Sculpt. It's the one that mentioned aquarium use :thumb: Which one did you try and like Gerry?


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## Gerry Binczik (Jan 30, 2005)

I bought the Apoxie Sculpt, nicco, but I haven't gotten to play with it yet. Soon!...

And I liked your idea to use real rock to impress detail into the clay, by the way. :thumb: Do you have a thought on what to coat the rock with to keep the clay from adhering?


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

I was thinking maybe saranwrap? I know they use vegitable oil for molds and such, so I might try that. Maybe just wetting down the rock will help?


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## bobrizzle (Oct 15, 2009)

niccomau said:


> I was thinking maybe saranwrap? I know they use vegitable oil for molds and such, so I might try that. Maybe just wetting down the rock will help?


**** i think we all have that kickin around. gl


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

I talked to the Apoxie Sculpt people. They were super nice and talked to me for 20 minutes. She said with Apoxie Sculpt you can just spray a light layer of the cooking spray Pam and make impressions/molds that way. I am probably going buy both Apoxie Sculpt and the Critter Clay and see what I like best :thumb: I'm going to take a day trip through Morgan Territory and Black Diamond Mines to collect some rocks and made try to take a couple of molds from rock faces in the area, so I'll see how it turns out.


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## Gerry Binczik (Jan 30, 2005)

If you'll take pictures and share them with us, I promise to do likewise! :wink:


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

I will :thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

It might be worth some time to think about scale when looking for rocks to model. I found in model railroading, things that were nice when in nature were grossly over sized when viewed closeup. I would think looking at a tank wall might be the same. I lean toward the smaller sizes for rockwork rather than only a few larger items. Perhaps just my viewpoint?


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## Danzx6r (Oct 12, 2009)

I would do it like so:

Make up a desired wall of rocks on a flat surface......

Cover them in a thin sheet of clay and make the edges slightly down turned towards the floor.

Leave to set hard.... This is now your mould which includes the rock indentations...

Now pour the liquid clay into the back of this mould and leave to cure. Decorate etc...

This is how they do the body sculpting to get the skin effect & I dont see why it wont work :thumb:

Dan


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## niccomau (Oct 14, 2008)

I always thought when looking at the back to nature backgrounds that the bigger scale rock faces made the tank look much larger. I'm looking at it from the point of view that I will be able to get much more in the way of size and realism using real rock molds. If it's too large you could just mold a part of it or cut the molded rock in pieces, and using the clay for molding the pieces seamlessly together and removing stop gaps in the face. I was also playing with the idea of tanking a couple of molding and scuplting classes to refresh and learn so new techniques. Maybe I could take some large mold of a verticle rock face aswell.


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## beachtan (Sep 25, 2008)

Heres one I did from plain old elementary school clay. fired without paint or glaze.










Heres how it looked at first in my tank,









Heres how it looks months later ( i need a pleco in there!! ) but it worked fine!


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## Scorpio (Sep 27, 2003)

opcorn:


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## scrubjay (Oct 25, 2009)

I'm definitely interested to see what the Apoxie Sculpt might look like. I was thinking of making something out of stoneware (high fire clay), bisque-firing it, and using it unglazed. You can get it in a range of earthy colors and you could also mix colors. However, I don't think it would work well as a background, although I could be wrong.

opcorn:


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## scrubjay (Oct 25, 2009)

Gerry Binczik said:


> I bought the Apoxie Sculpt, nicco, but I haven't gotten to play with it yet. Soon!...
> 
> And I liked your idea to use real rock to impress detail into the clay, by the way. :thumb: Do you have a thought on what to coat the rock with to keep the clay from adhering?


Have you played with this yet? I might order some and try it since I have a new tank to set up. Roughly how many pounds might I need to make a background on a 36" x 20" back wall? It says it will bond right to glass, so I don't see why you couldn't just build it right in the tank. Maybe even sculpt in a space for a heater, and a tube that would attach to a canister return. It sounds so much easier than the foam, so if it would work....I tried everything I could to find a case of someone using it to make aquarium structure, but nothing on the interwebs that I can see. hmmm, I wonder if I looked up "diorama" it might turn up something.
--Angela


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## emcat (Nov 5, 2009)

I'd save the effort to paint it. In my experience, the paint will just fade quickly and once you have natural growth on there, you'd never see the paint anyway. Just my .02 cents. I hope you succeed and prove me wrong. If so I'd like to know... Good luck, looks great so far!


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