# Receiving a 60G tank, how best to transport and re set up?



## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

So I'm being adventurous and going a little outside my comfort zone and taking in a 60G african cichlid tank tomorrow. I am taking a truck and driving 2.5h away to pick up the tank and fish and then we are going to have the fun journey of driving it back to my house. After unloading it and resetting it up, the fish will have been in their bags for about 4h total minimum so long as ... someone can help answer me this..

If I put all the original tank substrate/ decorations plus at least 30% of the original tank water (taken from the top layer of gravel as to obtain as much yummy bacteria possible) and use the same filter and media as was originally running, will i be able to use some safestart or cycle and add the fish back into it once at temp?

Please know that I do understand I that I run the risk of killing these fish by not having a properly cycled tank for them to go to while I play with the new tanks water parameters and ensure a good cycle has been done. However in my defense, i have used this trick in my own freshwater community aquariums and have never had an issue with water parameters. (I treated with nutrafin cycle for the first 3 days to help boost the bacteria count.

Thank you everyone!


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## james1983 (Dec 23, 2007)

As long as the filter media stays wet you should be ok setting it back up. Awhile ago I put all of my fish in plastic totes and removed all of the water and sand to go from black sand to white. It took a few hours but all fish were completely fine with 100% new water.


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

1) There is no bacteria (or very little) in the water, the bacteria has to attach to something.
2) The is only a little bacteria in the gravel, and rocks (some, but not much). Bacteria needs water flow to thrive.
3) So, most of your good bacteria is in the filter media.


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

Thank you guys for your help! So if i keep the filter media in a small tote with some of the original tank water that would be sufficient"? And i can use the sand i have already purchased right off the start? Do i need to bring any tank water with me to help fill?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Keep the filter media wet with old tank water, enough to keep it submerged. If you are getting a canister filter in the deal, I would also remove that filter media and keep it wet.

You should not need to transfer any old tank water to your home. However, if the previous owner has neglected upkeep of that tank and the nitrate level is extremely high, I might consider transferring 30% of the old water. The only way to know is to test the old tank prior to tearing it down.

You can use the new sand you have purchased but definitely pre-rinse it before putting it in new tank. You may want to consider doing this prior to the tank move to save time.

Are you planning on putting the fish in the tank as soon as you have it installed and filled at your home?

Do you know how many, what size and which fish you are getting?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

You don't need ANY old water to refill. But your NEW water does have to match old parameters. That will be necessary anyway for ongoing water changes. Did you test both your tap water and the old water? To see if they match?

Not using the old substrate can be a risk but I would expect the filter media to be sufficient to avoid a cycle completely without even using a bottled product. Same as tanker and james said.


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## james1983 (Dec 23, 2007)

Keep the media in old tank water maybe add an air stone and it'll be fine. You can use the old or new sand, I removed all of mine and replaced it with brand new sand with no problem.


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

All answer above==Good advice.


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

Deeda said:


> Are you planning on putting the fish in the tank as soon as you have it installed and filled at your home?
> 
> Do you know how many, what size and which fish you are getting?


At this point I have no choice but to put them straight into the tank after it is filled as I have only community tanks right now. I suppose they could swim ariund with my crayfish :-? but honestly I dont trust him not to pinch them.
I would also need to increase my PH in that tank to make it comfortable for them

And I am taking in a ropefish (yes the hood is tight fitting) and 2 cichlids that are unidentified at this time. I am going to take pictures and post it in the Unidentied Cichlids thread thingy. :lol:

Also I'm unsure if the tank comes with a canister filter. I do know I will be receiving the Fluval Aquaclear 110 HOB with the tank, should I consider purchasing a canister as well for this tank? I run a fluval 205 on my 33G and absolutely love it. I was considering the Fluval 406 for the cichlid tank.

I love live plants and have heard there are only a few that do well d/t the high alkalinity needed for cichlids. Have you done live plants?

Sorry I ask lots of questions

Rae


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

Thank you to everyone who has replied to this post. 
I have got some invaluable tips for each of you!
Thanks again!


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

Astrix said:


> I love live plants and have heard there are only a few that do well d/t the high alkalinity needed for cichlids. Have you done live plants?
> Rae


I have not had any success with Plants and African cichlids. They either pick them to shreds, or eat them (this is with Mbunas).


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Astrix said:


> Deeda said:
> 
> 
> > Are you planning on putting the fish in the tank as soon as you have it installed and filled at your home?
> ...


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## RayMontana (Oct 5, 2016)

tanker3 said:


> Astrix said:
> 
> 
> > I love live plants and have heard there are only a few that do well d/t the high alkalinity needed for cichlids. Have you done live plants?
> ...


I have a 55 gal tank with Mbuna and it is fully planted. they nibble a bit but have not torn up anything . the tinfoil barbs eat more than they do. I have a ph of 8.2, some plants are doing better than others but none have died. Its worth a try, I think the fish benefit from the extra food... maybe I am wrong.
If they eat them, well thats why they are there. I can always get more if that happens.


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

So what an adventure!!!!!!!!

The cichlids I received are in decent condition, two males (pretty sure) same species (100% positive) have no clue as to what species. They are approximately 3" in size. They were being house in an unheated tank...  The owners used just tap water when doing water changes (absolutely no conditioners) and were feeding the rope fish bloodworms daily... I was told the ropefish is between 10-12 years old but it is approximately 7" only... so tiny for its age... Horrified  and they lived through it for over a year :dancing: I will post pics of the cichlids soon. I have a 50G tank being used as a herb garden that I am going to clean out and fire up in a few months and then move the rope fish into its own tank with a few wiggly friends. He requires lower PH and his feeding requirements aren't good for the cichlids.

I was able to move and re-set up the tank last night! Talk about exhausting. I was able to keep the filter media submerged in original tank water for the transport. So as soon as I got the tank filled I fired it back up. I layered a little over half the original substrate across half the tank bottom and used the sand on the other half. Currently my tanK PH is 8.2 GH 12 KH 10 Nitrate less than 10ppm... Temperature is 80F. I gave an inital dosing of Nutrafin cycle last night and an additional dose an hour ago, I also added some Melafix to the water. Everything survived the night! :fish: :thumb:

Dee,
My tap Water parameters were safe, PH was 7.9 GH and KH were slightly lowered but I buffered with some Cichlid condither and KH booster. I also added a bag of Seachem aragonite sand to help with stabilization until my amazon order arrives.

I plan on using anubias coffeefolia, anubias nana, anubias barteri, vallisneria corkscrew and java fern. I would like to do haps and peacocks in my tank. I'm hoping the cichlids I already have are either/or.

Once I have the tank decorated I will post pics.

Thank you all for the help!

Rae


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

tanker3 said:


> I have not had any success with Plants and African cichlids. *They either pick them to shreds, or eat them (this is with Mbunas)*.


That looks to be how it's going here ... java fern and anubias ...

The green roots of the anubias are getting seriously trimmed by the constant picking.


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

Anybody know what species? The coloring is horrendous (photo quality).. pale yellowish coloring and the blue iridescence.. I thought maybe labeotropheus or hemichromis but Im sure Im way off..


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## james1983 (Dec 23, 2007)

Jewel cichlid


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

Hemochromis?


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## BC in SK (Aug 11, 2012)

Astrix said:


> I buffered with some Cichlid condither and KH booster.


IMO, you really shouldn't be messing with this kind of stuff. 
Unless your KH is very low (like 1 or 2) .....then there won't be any benefit to your fish. And possibly harm if you can't maintain stability when doing water changes. You want your tank water to be similar to your tap water in order to facilitate large water changes with greater ease.


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## BC in SK (Aug 11, 2012)

Astrix said:


> Hemochromis?


It's just aquarium strain jewel cichlid. _Hemichromis guttatus_
Jewel cichlids are fairly chameleon-like and can change color/pattern on a dime, dependant on mood/status, age, sex, breeding, lighting, decor ect.
Now in this faded state, it is sort of hard to tell whether your fish is the regular strain jewel or possibly what is called a 'neon' jewel. Now a neon jewel has unknown origins but is often thought to be _Hemichromis guttatus_, as well (or at least very similar).
Despite many on the internet still using the name _Hemichromis bimaculatus_ for the common jewel cichlid, that is in correct. All pictures on the net of aquarium strain jewels called _H. bimaculatus _ are mis-labeled. It is a rare fish, rarely imported and all the pictures I have seen show a fish with virtually no blue iridiophores (bright blue spots)._H. guttatus_ is thought to be the correct scientific name for the common aquarium strain jewel because it fits the type.


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

Oh my!! How do you know so much??? I'd love to pick your brain. So if they are jewels.. how best do I set up their environment?? After looking at pictures I realize that these guys are very unhealthy and need a lot of nursing back to health. The bigger of the two is very aggressive towards the other one, I will be dividing the tank in half tomorrow with a rock wall to seperate them from each other to put an end to the nipping and biting. The previous owners had stated that this was the behavior displayed before in the tank. I have noticed that he bullies the smaller one from the food provided as well (not surprising) My goal is to bring these guys back to health and then rehome the bigger one to a more experienced cichlid keeper in my area.. 
Would he be ok with peacocks and haps?


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## Astrix (Jan 15, 2017)

Astrix said:


> Would he be ok with peacocks and haps?


He would be the smaller one that I'd like to keep.. if however Im going to have issues then I will probably rehome him as well.. I ask but everything I've read about Jewels is that they should be kept as single species only and dont play well with others and are more aggresive.. is this all true ?


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## BC in SK (Aug 11, 2012)

Astrix said:


> Would he be ok with peacocks and haps?


If haps and peacocks are the direction you are going in, then maybe you would want to get rid of them. From my perspective though, I don't think 1 jewel is likely to cause much of a problem. The all-male peacock/hap tank that is often recommended is rife with aggression problems. It's really a way to maximize color in a tank, but not always very workable or practical to have a bunch of closely related males all in the same tank. In all likelyhood there would be less friction just by virtue of the fact that a jewel is a substrate spawner and thus significantly different then a mouth brooder.


Astrix said:


> The bigger of the two is very aggressive towards the other one, I will be dividing the tank in half tomorrow with a rock wall to seperate them from each other to put an end to the nipping and biting. The previous owners had stated that this was the behavior displayed before in the tank. I have noticed that he bullies the smaller one from the food provided as well (not surprising)


Conspecific aggression is often the more major aggression problem in any cichlid tank. That is, cichlids are usually most aggressive towards their own kind. Same sex and closely related, also high aggression. But when it is only 2 cichlids in the tank, it is what you expect as one will focus exclusively on the other, even seek to eliminate it from the tank.


Astrix said:


> Astrix said:
> 
> 
> > I ask but everything I've read about Jewels is that they should be kept as single species only and dont play well with others and are more aggresive.. is this all true ?


I wouldn't really agree with that. They are an aggressive species, though many cichlids are.


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## BooyahBlake (Feb 13, 2017)

RayMontana said:


> tanker3 said:
> 
> 
> > Astrix said:
> ...


agreed


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