# Chloramines & Chlorine in tap water - do you measure?



## hisplaceresort1 (Mar 10, 2014)

Good evening everyone!

I would like to start a discussion about chloramines and Chlorine in your source water. In reading random posts, I believe I've read at least 5 or 6 where people that were using dechlorinators wound up not using enough, for some reason, and killed their fish. It seems that from time to time municipalities are changing the amounts of these chemicals, and not informing the public... (this will seque into another topic on dechlorinating, but for now, I'll try to keep this topic narrow.)

What I would like to know:

1.) How many people have had this problem & how did you actually know that this was the real problem? I'm trying to ascertain if this is a common occurrence.

2.) What are the signs of chlorine/chloramine poisoning?

3.) Do any of you actually measure for it? If so, what kit(s) do you use?

4.) Are city municipalities obligated in any way to inform the public when they are about to change something?

I think this will be interesting... Looking forward to your comments, and I thank you in advance! opcorn:


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

If you use a dechlorinator at the recommended levels you should be fine. IMO answers are:
1-no
2-instant death
3-no
4-no


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## The Cichlid Guy (Oct 18, 2014)

When I first started "fishkeeping" I knew nothing, and never treated the water in my goldfish tank. He lived for several months before it or my lack of knowledge finally got to him.

Now, I use Seachem's Prime, and one capful is enough to treat my whole tank, so I only use a few drops in my 5 gallon buckets, and I've never had a problem. It also detoxifies pretty much everything bad in emergency situations.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Interesting. My goldfish I brought home from the fair (get a ping pong ball in the bowl) as a kid died the same day. Maybe you aerated your water better than I and maybe that was before chloramines came into common use?


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## workharddieproud (Nov 7, 2013)

You can buy InstaTest strips from Lamotte. I use them to check the water coming out of my filter that I use to fill my aquarium with, as I don't use Prime or any other additive.


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## hisplaceresort1 (Mar 10, 2014)

Thanks for the comments so far... I am also a believer in Seachem Prime, although to this day, some of it's instructions seem like voodoo...

What got me on this whole train of thought to begin with is that yesterday I was reading a post about someone's red fin borleyi dying because he didn't use enough Prime on a WC. The rest of the fish survived, apparently. And the day before, I thought I smelled chlorine in my tap water, and I've never noticed it before. And I'm about to do a water change tonight, actually as soon as I quit typing here, so it made me really start wondering!

Here is some of that Voodoo right off Seachem's website (and bottle):



> Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. This removes approximately 1 mg/L ammonia, 4 mg/L chloramine, or 5 mg/L chlorine. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL. *May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume.*


OK - Think about how little sense that makes for a minute. If you're doing a 25% water change, you will use 4 times as much if you mix it in the tank. Personally, I have a 5 gallon bucket in my bathtub with a pump. I put the prime in there and run the faucet at the same speed the pump will move it out. So it's kind of getting mixed in the tank, and kind of getting mixed before the tank... hmmm...



> Sulfur odor is normal. *For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely.*


Yeah, OK - and how IS someone supposed to know this if we're not measuring?



> To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used.


...along with a water change? 5 times the normal dose for just the nitrite-high volume?



> If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) *and chlorine or ammonia levels are low*, use a half dose.


...and I know this _how_, again?

And I think most of us have killed goldfish as a kid with tap water before we knew better...  Mine died within seconds of giving him some fresh water...

I realize I sound like I worry too much. I would be really angry if a chlorine spike killed my fish. Also, if you knew the backstory about my small town's (population about 900) water supply, and the fact that in order to stay in state compliance for water guidelines, they continue to add more chemicals, (as opposed to fixing our water tower that needs about $100,000 of work) you might be wondering, too... especially if you think you're smelling chlorine coming out of your tap. :? I'm going to have to FOIA them to give me the list of what they're adding to my water, I'm afraid...

Anyway, as for me, I'm gonna go do a WC! And I'm going to use a double dose based on my entire tank volume with my 50% change!

Appreciate the comments from everyone... Thanks!


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## The Cichlid Guy (Oct 18, 2014)

hisplaceresort1 said:


> Here is some of that Voodoo right off Seachem's website (and bottle):
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Most dechlorinators include a similar line of instruction: "if dosing directly to the tank, dose based on total tank volume." It's probably intended to be helpful to people who may use something like a Python or other hose to refill their tank, and can't premix the water in a bucket. I used to have to do this when I had a tank on a stand below another tank, and couldn't physically pour water into it. Now I just add the Prime to my buckets, mix up my buffer and salt in cups.


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## BC in SK (Aug 11, 2012)

hisplaceresort1 said:


> > If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume.[/b]
> 
> 
> OK - Think about how little sense that makes for a minute. If you're doing a 25% water change, you will use 4 times as much if you mix it in the tank.


Actually that does make sense. It's really a small amount compared to the gallons you are treating. It has to be able to disperse through out the water to make contact with the chloramine/chlorine.
My understanding is that a simple experiment with a dye will demonstrate this.
Since I add directly, I always add prime right before, or just after the new water begins entering the tank, to minimize the exposure to chloramine.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

If you think your town is doing crazy stuff then test. Also test one gallon of tap with dechlor and test before a water change to be sure.


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## Kanorin (Apr 8, 2008)

Those directions seem very precise and straightforward to me, but I do have a strong background in chemistry and biology.
When dealing with molecules suspended in liquid, everything is concentration dependent. It has to do with the probability that a molecule of the dechlorinator will find a molecule of the chlorine (it's easier to find a needle among a small jar full of hay than among the whole haystack).

I think the main things to know is that there are dire consequences for not dosing enough dechlor, and fish seem to tolerate up to 5x overdose with no ill effects. Better to slightly overdose than under. It will only hurt your wallet (much less than buying new fish would though).


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## hisplaceresort1 (Mar 10, 2014)

Kanorin & DJRansome; agreed. Thanks everyone for the responses!


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## johnnymarko (May 30, 2014)

DJRansome said:


> Interesting. My goldfish I brought home from the fair (get a ping pong ball in the bowl) as a kid died the same day. Maybe you aerated your water better than I and maybe that was before chloramines came into common use?


My partner won a goldfish the same exact way at the fair. Kept it in a bowl for nearly 5 years, kid you not. When he made the move out from Chicago to Colorado this summer, he died after 2 weeks of new water


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

From speaking to a water plant worker, it appears that they have to have a certain contact time for the water at a concentration of 2ppm for the water to be considered disinfected. Years ago, when I tested for chlorine using a pool kit, I found it to be higher than 2 ppm.We don't have chloramine in our tap water here, just chlorine. Up until a few years ago I didn't use any dechlor. I would change 50% of the water with no ill effects. Others in the club did the same, and some still do. I use a home made dechlor , having acquired a lifetime supply of sodium thioshuphite for $20.
A few years ago I did a test of the tap water, and found that the level of chlorine was above the range of my kit, which went to 3ppm. I took a portion of this water and added it to an equal portion of tank water. The chlorine dropped to .75ppm. I tested again 10 minutes later and it was at 0ppm. Chlorine is a powerful oxidant and reacts very quickly with organics in the water. For those that add a dechlor after topping up, I would say it is then too late. Dechlors are reducing agents, so if they are in excess, they will likely remove oxygen from the water.
Most municipalities will post the water test results regularly, so, if in doubt, talk to them or check their website. If you are dealng with a private company that supplies your water, it would be worthwhile to closely monitor what they are doing.


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## hisplaceresort1 (Mar 10, 2014)

BillD; fabulous insight... thank you.


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