# need help with stand



## Nwright36 (Jul 27, 2011)

tomorrow i am taking my 75 gallon tank down. I sold my extra 55 with all my current fish stock so i figure now is the time to do a DIY project.

Tank measurements from the outside trim pieces are as follows 
41.5 long 18.5 wide 21.5 high = 75 gallon

Decor - will probably use one 12 inch bubble stone and make rock mountain full of caves

Substrate - 50lb of PFS from local pool supply store

Filter - Fluval 405 and a hob aquatech 30-60

Now I am wanting to build a stand and a canopy for it. I plan on using 2x6 and plywood. Inside the stand i need to have one space probably around 16 inches wide with a shelf that is probably at least 8 inches off the floor so i can sit my fluval 405 on it. I will have a timer to automatically run my lights for either 6 or 8 hours a day. Also have an outlet inside the stand with probably 8 plug ins available. For the canopy i want a 32-36 inch shop light in it and obviously easy access to the tank for feeding and cleaning. Also i am going to paint the back of the glass black.

Questions

1. do i need to put some kind of sealant on the wood incase there is ever a leak of any kind?

2. about how many 2x6 do you think i will need and big sheets of plywood?

3. Is it best to use wood glue with the screws i will be using?

4. for my fluval what will be the best mixture of carbon,media,and sponges should i use?


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## Tadgo (Jul 31, 2011)

1. Yes. I like polyurethane. Gloss, satin or matte is up to you.

2. Need to see a print to figure out materials.

3. Don't use drywall screws. Use wood screws. I like elmers yellow wood glue. I have heard gorilla glue is also a good wood glue. I've never used it. Glue will add some strength to it.

4. Don't know.

Good luck.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I have built a number of stands and would suggest backing off on the 2X6 to 2X4. There is reason to not need even that large but getting a good straight 2X4 is pretty easy where sometimes getting good wood in other sizes may not be so easy. When thinking of bowing, it is better to use two pieces of wood put together at an angle rather than one. In that way the warping of one is resisted by the other and unlikely to bow. I find a 2X4 laid on the flat side to form a ring, top and bottom and 2X put together at angles for corner posts is way plenty for support. Iglue and screw the corner 2X together so that they form an "L" which is super strong. It may be stronger than needed but it gives a really large place to attach plywood well so that the skin doesn't give noise from vibration like filter, etc. Nothing worse than finding your stand acts like a drum and amps up noise. Glue the skin on as well. 









This is for a 125 but I build the same for any size tank. Cover with 1/2 or better plywood and it is fully strong enough.

Definitely use wood screws and glue on all joints. I use three inch and run a screw from each side at all corner joints in the top and bottom rim. Yellow glue is what I use. It makes a bond that holds even when screws might break or bend. No reason to back off on doing it right over fasteners. About 8 2X4-8' should do the frame. one sheet of plywood for the skin unless you are doing a taller than normal.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

Don't use regular yellow wood glue as it isn't waterproof. Use a waterproof PVA glue such as Weldbond and forget the Gorilla glue as it isn't as strong as the PVA. PfunMo is right about the 2 x 4 versus the 2 x 6. A 75 needs a 48" light fixture, not a 36", which are harder to find and more expensive to tube.


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## Nwright36 (Jul 27, 2011)

TAdgo = thanx for the info 

Pfunmo = i was really thinking i needed 2x4 just wanted that added strength with 2x6 and i was planning on getting 12 2x6x8 and 2 sheets of plywood and returning what i dont use

BillD = i plan on using a smaller light because it is going ot bea frontosa tank and i know they dont like alot of light i have a 48 on it right now


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## Tadgo (Jul 31, 2011)

BillD said:


> Don't use regular yellow wood glue as it isn't waterproof. Use a waterproof PVA glue such as Weldbond and forget the Gorilla glue as it isn't as strong as the PVA. PfunMo is right about the 2 x 4 versus the 2 x 6. A 75 needs a 48" light fixture, not a 36", which are harder to find and more expensive to tube.


Ha. I've used weldbond in building fishing rods. Never thought of it in this application. Will have to add that to the research list for my upcoming tank build. Thanks.


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## dillon0990 (Jun 11, 2011)

I just built my 55 gallon stand and finished it a couple days ago.

You will just want 2x4. And only one piece of plywood 4x8









For the outside i used 1/4 inch plywood that was cheap but looked nice. oak was a little pricey for me but i liked how it turned out. If you use the 1/4 inch plywood the best way to cut it clean is with a utility knife. The whole front piece on my stand is one piece and i measured exactly where the holes needed to be for the doors and used the utility knife to cut the door openings out. This way you will have no joints where the plywood comes together.

I built my whole stand for 100 bucks.

It took:

7- 2x4 ~$20
1- 4x8 sheet of plywood $10
2 boxes of 2.5 in deck screws $12
1 8' 1x4 poplar $14---trim arouns the top and bottom
1 6' 1x4 poplar $10
1 10' 1x3 poplar $12-----trim to make the doors
1 8' 1x3 poplar $10
door hinges $4
Left over stain and varnish

$92 give or take


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I shy away from using 1/4 inch plywood for the outside. If it is not suported well enough in enough places it can begin to vibrate more than I like. I spend a bit more on the plywood and call it insurance against having a problem. One of those times when I feel it is worth the extra bit of expense.

I never worry about the type glue used for the frame. If I'm getting enough water in the joints to turn glue loose, I've got bigger problems than the glue coming loose. I like the yellow glue for the low expense and quicker setup time. There is an exterior version but I've never needed or used it.


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## dillon0990 (Jun 11, 2011)

if you glue the plywood on with liquidnails and then use finishing nails all around it doesnt vibrate


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Sometimes you get lucky and they don't vibrate. Other times they do. I would rather spend the ten bucks difference to get a better guarantee that it will be what I want when I get done.


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

One option you may not have considered for your 75 gallon is to use plywood only for the stand.
With a proper design it is more than strong enough to support the tank and water. As an added bonus, the stand is quite lightweight.


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## Nwright36 (Jul 27, 2011)

well i have a metal stand for it now and i was actually thinking of just adding plywood to the outside of the metal frame and make it all look good thinking this will be cheaper and easier and will still look the same lol


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Depends on how you feel about working the metal. For me, I hate drilling it unless i can get it to a drill press, so I would rather start from scratch and build with wood. Personal preference with that.


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

*DILLON0990, what was the thickness on that plywood?*


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## dillon0990 (Jun 11, 2011)

1/4 inch plywood


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## The King Crabb (Jun 28, 2011)

Good to know! Sorry, I just realized that you wrote it in your last post but didn't see it!


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## dillon0990 (Jun 11, 2011)

lol no problem.


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