# water quality - secret to crystal clear water on the cheap



## Evilpenguinj (Mar 22, 2008)

Hi Everyone

I have a 75g tank with about 25 cichlids in it. I have a Marineland C360 for filtration. I also have a Maxi-Jet powerhead with a sponge attached to the bottom of it. The water is pretty clear but not crystal clear as I would like it. I don't have room on the back of the tank to add a HOB filter and really don't want to move the tank. So the question I am asking is what is the cheapest option for making the water clearer.

Jason


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2008)

Cheapest option would be adding carbon and more filter pads in the filtration.

Another way, but pricey, is to get an ultraviolet sterilizer. The good thing about them is besides clarifying the water they also kill any bacteria, protozoa, etc that gets sucked into the sterilizer which helps protect your fish from outbreaks of illnesses.

~Ed


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Cheapest way? Cut back on the feeding a bit for about a week and see if that clears it. Excess organics 
can cause a slight haze in the water. Doesn't cost anything to test this and if it works, you'll actually 
save money by going through less food.


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## gherlevi (Dec 16, 2004)

Forgive the hijacking, but this post mirrors exactly my question. I was going to post the same thing!

I've got an established 125 setup, moderately stocked, and everything's healthy. Filtration is an FX5 and an Eheim 2026.

From the front, the water looks clear. From the side (and 6 ft of water), you can see the haze that prov 356 describes. It's not green, it's just a slight whitish haze.

I can live with this, but if I was super obsessive, what is the best "bang for the buck"? Other than less feeding, which is definitely a point well taken.

1. More mechanical filtration via pads.
2. Carbon.
3. UV sterilizer.

I'm intrigued by the UV option, but looking at posts, I suspect there is a bias of favoratism? People tend to gravitate toward reading and posting on the equipment they love and support (myself included!).

I also haven't tried carbon after learning from posters that it's not essential, but I'm curious if that might help as well.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I just posted this link on another thread. It may help understand possible sources of hazy water. I don't think there's often an easy solution though.


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## Rockydog (Oct 21, 2007)

You know I believed it when everyone says you don't need carbon and my tanks were clean but if you want to go to the next level of water clarity just add carbon. I change out the carbon in my filters every 4 to 6 weeks. I use fluval cans and I devote 1 section to carbon (don't buy the prepared bags, too expensive) I lay a layer of quilt batting on the bottom of the basket, fill with rinsed carbon, add another later of batting (this way carbon doesn't leak through the cracks). If you buy the carbon in large quantities it's not an expensive operation. I also use UV sterilizers in my tanks also but I had them before going to carbon.


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## Evilpenguinj (Mar 22, 2008)

So if I am reading this correctly carbon will help with making the water clearer? I never used the carbon that came with the 360. So I should put that back in? Also one other question....if I remove the tray of bio balls and put the carbon in there, that isn't going to affect anything as far as the biological goes would it?

Jason


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## gherlevi (Dec 16, 2004)

Thanks prov356 for that link. After reading, I'm pretty dang sure my mild cloudiness is "free-floating planktonic flagellates, ciliates, rotifers and the like." Which (happily) is the sign of a healthy tank!

Assuming that's the source of cloudiness... small microscopic critters... my hunch is that a UV would definitely do the trick. Would carbon as well? Or, does that help only with dissolved imurities?

Now, I'm starting to wonder about the pros and cons of perfectly crystal clear water. If a slight haze results from microscopic critters that are actually useful (i.e. green water suppressor and food for fry), do those advantages outweigh the aesthetics of perfectly clear water?


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> my hunch is that a UV would definitely do the trick. Would carbon as well? Or, does that help only with dissolved imurities?


If that's what is is, then carbon wouldn't resolve it, that's correct. You'd need a UV.



> Now, I'm starting to wonder about the pros and cons of perfectly crystal clear water. If a slight
> haze results from microscopic critters that are actually useful (i.e. green water suppressor and food for
> fry), do those advantages outweigh the aesthetics of perfectly clear water?


I've had the same thought. I have the same slight haze when I view my tank from the side. I know that I 
have fry that live until they become someone else's lunch after a couple of weeks and I don't feed them. 
They do seem to thrive until then, and that could very well be why.


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## smellsfishy1 (May 29, 2008)

I know this is going to sound simple and obvious but my tank water is always the clearest the first few days after a water change. Usually toward the end of the week is when the water isn't crystal clear.
Carbon never made my water clearer. I actually stopped using carbon after I realized it wasn't as effective after the first week
I would try the a larger or more frequent water change schedule or some filter floss before spending big bucks on uv sterilizers and what not.
Maybe a very fine mechanical medium is what you need.


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## clgkag (Mar 22, 2008)

Purigen did wonders for me.


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## D-007 (Jan 3, 2008)

My vote goes to filter floss and/or UV sterilzer opcorn:


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## WolfRedeemed (Oct 27, 2008)

Hi Mate I also had this same problem and thought I might suggest something before you spend all that money on something that may not solve your problem. Try to get your hands on aqua clear solution and add this to the tank per directions. This will precipitate out anything that may be giving you your haze which is due to the tap water. If not then thats only a couple of bucks wasted.

Cheers


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## parkayandbutter (Jan 15, 2008)

With a UV are you killing the source or killing the problem? Why not just kill the source such as overfeeding. I bet you anything your not doing enough water changes as well as having overfeeding conditions. With 25 Africans your overstocked meaning you have to step up everything for water conditions (Clarity) Your filtration is not enough Jason. I have had my aquarium 75 gallon set up with 30+ Africans for a long time. As they grew my filtration needs changed. I have had a wet dry on it, but the flow was not enough until I moved up to a CA4000 pump that has an output GPH at approx 4ft 700-750GPH. I have UGJ's too.

Here is an example: Have you ever been to a public restaurant and seen an aquarium packed with fish and beautiful clear water. Not hard to imagine cause they are only fed most likely every other day and a small amount.

With today's fish food being so heavily fortified with good stuff fish truely don't need to be fed every day. Ever see a fish eat its own poo? Sure you have. It's cause most times that Poo still is containing 1/3rd of the original food that isn't processed. It's still yummier to the tummy and provides nutrients.

Lets do some math........... Cut down on the amount your feeding your fish and go to every other day once and see what happens. I bet you solve your problem. Here is a question to you as well. Do you feed your fish several times a day very small amounts or one large feeding? It's best as I have read in fish magazines to feed several small meals rather then a large feeding. You save food cost on $ for purchase of food. You probably won't have to do a water change nearly as much. I do a water change every 7 to 10 days 1/3rd the volume of water in my aquarium.

UV sterilizer and Carbon. Let me do some research on this. Okay let's just say it's going to cost you $100 bucks I suppose if you can find one. Replacement lamps after a year is about 40 bucks. I'm guessing you can hook this up to your canister lines. HUH. Oh and the added electricity 15 to 18 watts I am guessing. Carbon...... $5-$8 local pet store 8oz or you can buy in bulk $45 for 25 pounds of it. Probably a years supply or more......

I am sure you will see that your option is to do less feeding and step up to the frequent water changes will solve your issue of clarity.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

Or keep feeding, keep the stock as it really is not over exceeding and just flat out do more water changes :thumb: .

That is the best way to do it.

My water is crystal clear always, but however, I do notice some haze once in a while. Immediately taking action I often realize its not the water but its just some film on the inside and the outside of the glass. May not be your case but I just thought I would toss it up in the air for someone else reading this.


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## boredatwork (Sep 14, 2007)

D-007 said:


> My vote goes to filter floss and/or UV sterilzer opcorn:


I can't agree more about the filter floss. After switching over to filter floss I don't know why it is not standard media for every filter. I spent months trying to figure out why my water was dirty, apparently it was the blatantly obvious problem - my filter was doing good mechanical filtration. I don't know why it took me so long to actually make the change.

As for the UV sterilizer and other comments. I do not have a UV sterilizer...yet. I always have green water problems. I can easily fix it through excessive water changes and turning the lights off, but as soon as I turn the lights back on and go back to weekly water changes the green water comes back. I don't have an ounce of green algae in the tank, just the water. Although I have a plenty of brown algae, but thats a whole different story.


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## JWerner2 (Jul 7, 2008)

UV sterilizers work great but wont do what some expect them to do in this thread. A UV sterilizer will not clear the water from everything that is only _clouding_ the water. Only certain things like algae or in some cases parasites but those of course will not cause the water to cloud up.

I also say filter floss is a great choice. I thought I had a pristine tank, then I went with the floss and wow. I never thought anything would make more of a difference!


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## FLGirl1977 (Jul 24, 2007)

I had the same problem with my 75. Seemed the pangea background was holding lots of microscopic particles. I also had an Eheim Pro II, UV filter and Maxi-Jet powerhead with sponge for filtration. Still particles!!! Finally, the only thing that helped was a Diatom filter. That thing filters out ANYTHING! It even filters out Ick.... the only downside to the diatom filter is that you can only run it for so long and it gets 'clogged' quickly due to the **** it filters out. I still recommend them though if you want that true crystal clear. The fish literally look like they're swimming in air!


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## zazz (Apr 5, 2008)

my experience is that adding like a whole sack of filter sand and tons of rocks to my 150g ...the whole tank has become one giant canister....its crystal clear now at all times....like the fish are flying in air!!!

i do use filter wool on the intakes to strip the water of solid waste but cloudiness is just not an issue now ever.


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## ebo (May 5, 2007)

boredatwork said:


> D-007 said:
> 
> 
> > My vote goes to filter floss and/or UV sterilzer opcorn:
> ...


Same feeling here, I have not used carbon for over a year after reading about it here. I change out a piece of filter floss each water change in my AC500 and my tank looks like air. Floss is cheap.


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## Fishbulb2 (Sep 23, 2008)

FLGirl1977 said:


> I had the same problem with my 75. Seemed the pangea background was holding lots of microscopic particles. I also had an Eheim Pro II, UV filter and Maxi-Jet powerhead with sponge for filtration. Still particles!!! Finally, the only thing that helped was a Diatom filter. That thing filters out ANYTHING! It even filters out Ick.... the only downside to the diatom filter is that you can only run it for so long and it gets 'clogged' quickly due to the #%$& it filters out. I still recommend them though if you want that true crystal clear. The fish literally look like they're swimming in air!


I definitely agree. I've had several UV sterilizers and Diatom filters in my days. The diatom filters are just more versatile. They filter out anything leaving only dissolved organics that can be easily removed with carbon. UV really only targets free floating microbes. If that's not your problem, then you won't really see a difference. I use my diatom filter periodically, and plan to hook back up a UV sterilizer. They serve different functions though and each have their perks.

FB


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## Biotoper (Apr 14, 2006)

My filter floss worked too good. After I switched my 75g (w/ built-in wet/dry and pre-filter floss) to africans, the floss would just get clogged so quickly. I tried removing the floss a few months ago and the water is still crystal clear (except when I turn the return pump off/on during feeding, which kicks up a bit a solid waste), so I think the fish waste is just getting caught up in the bioballs before being broken down (I also have a ton of pothos growing out of the trickle tray, whose roots trap a lot of mulm). But I think this is causing my nitrates to climb faster between wc's than I want. I'm reducing feeding and reducing my stocking level, which is my main problem, but I would like something better than the prefilter floss for mechanical filtration. A diatom filter sounds like the best option. I believe that water treatment facilities use protein skimmers on freshwater to skim out solid waste as well as dissolved proteins - some one should figure out how to make an aquarium version!


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## Biotoper (Apr 14, 2006)

I spoke too soon:
http://www.tmc-ltd.co.uk/commercial/freshwater-skimmers.asp
Didn't intend to hijack. Anyone have any experience with skimming freshwater?

Back to diatom filters, which one do people recommend?


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