# I got glass cut up for tops



## Marconis (Feb 9, 2007)

Only cost me $18 for 1/8" glass for two tops to fit my 72 bow. My concern is, since it is very thin and not tempered, can the heat from the tank and light pose as a potential threat and make it crack, or is it just cold temp that can make glass crack?

Thanks


----------



## Vincent (May 7, 2004)

I've had lights crack my glass tops. The tops were for 24x18" openings on 75G and 125G tanks. I put twin-tube 36" and 48" All-Glass strip lights on top and they cracked. I would be careful, although it's not the end of the world if the glass cracks. I just siliconed along the crack and continued to use them. The plastic back strip helps hold everything together. I think the glass may be thicker than 1/8", though.


----------



## Jeepguy (Mar 19, 2008)

Marconis, I have a 40G breeder I am having trouble finding tops for also. I was going to a peice cut, but want to hinge it somehow. plus I was worried about the cracking like you are


----------



## Vincent (May 7, 2004)

To construct a hinge, you can run a bead of silicone on top of the edge where the two pieces touch. If you are generous with the silicone it should last for a while, but you'll have to redo it every once in a while.


----------



## Jeepguy (Mar 19, 2008)

I was actually looking into plexi, and using plastic a plasti hing, I am just worried about the sag


----------



## Marconis (Feb 9, 2007)

Jeepguy said:


> I was actually looking into plexi, and using plastic a plasti hing, I am just worried about the sag


I had very thick plexi, and even that sagged a ton, which pushed up my light and caused more water to evaporate, and I couldn't fill my tank too high.

BTW, nice name :thumb: I have a Jeep myself.


----------



## kornphlake (Feb 12, 2004)

In general it's a bad idea to let the cover carry the entire weight of a light regardless of the material. The hood should be constructed so that it rests on the edges of the tank or on one edge and the cross brace. A less than ideal but still acceptable situation is where the hood rests on the lip inside the top trim piece. Plastic will warp even without the weight of the light, glass, especially thin glass, when unsupported isn't very efficient at carrying bending loads.


----------



## Marconis (Feb 9, 2007)

kornphlake said:


> In general it's a bad idea to let the cover carry the entire weight of a light regardless of the material. The hood should be constructed so that it rests on the edges of the tank or on one edge and the cross brace. A less than ideal but still acceptable situation is where the hood rests on the lip inside the top trim piece. Plastic will warp even without the weight of the light, glass, especially thin glass, when unsupported isn't very efficient at carrying bending loads.


The light doesn't touch the glass at all, it rests on the raised lip on the sides.


----------



## Jeepguy (Mar 19, 2008)

Yeah, my hood will rest over the top frame of the tank. The glass or plexi will rest on the internal lip. I am heading home to VA over the fourth, my dad is pretty clever at these things. hopefully he can help me divise something. Otherwise I am going to have to buy 2 75G tops and have one cut down


----------



## boostspike (Apr 3, 2007)

Jeepguy said:


> Marconis, I have a 40G breeder I am having trouble finding tops for also. I was going to a peice cut, but want to hinge it somehow. plus I was worried about the cracking like you are


Are you looking for a glass cover for a 40g breeder??? I just got one of those Versa Top glass covers for my 40g breeder for like $25-30.


----------



## Jeepguy (Mar 19, 2008)

Boost, where did you get it? I don't have a lot of stores in my town, the closest petco or anything with a big selection is about an hour away.


----------



## Vincent (May 7, 2004)

Petsolutions.com sells 36x18 glass tops:

http://www.petsolutions.com/All-Glass-Versa-Tops+I15929016.aspx


----------



## boostspike (Apr 3, 2007)

Jeepguy said:


> Boost, where did you get it? I don't have a lot of stores in my town, the closest petco or anything with a big selection is about an hour away.


I got mine at a LFS. Basically, any store that sells All-Glass/ Aqueon product can order the glass top for you. I just went into the store and asked an employee if they can order me the top. Best thing is no additional shipping.. :thumb: If you must, just print this out so they don't screw things up. best of luck

http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/ ... s-tops.htm


----------



## Jeepguy (Mar 19, 2008)

awsome info, just ordered one. 35 bucks is a lot less headache than DIY in this case. Now I can build my DIY hood, and not worry about my bulbs getting wet and possibly bursting. Although I am still flirting with LED's


----------



## Timkat4867 (Jan 11, 2008)

Marconis, I wouldnt worry at all about your glass cracking. Heat from an aquarium light is intense, but not enough to be a consistent threat to glass. Rather,What makes glass crack is the intense heat and then rapid cooling, over a period of time, which wont happen in an aquarium. I realise it may happen to people occaisionally, but it could crack from a number of factors: age of glass, composition, hairline fractures that happen at the factory that you dont see until you get it home on your tank, etc. 
Glass is tougher than you think.


----------

