# Frontosa and pH



## boredatwork (Sep 14, 2007)

I have a strange situation. The water comes out of my tap at a pH of 8.8. After a day in my tank the pH drops below 7.0 and will level off around 6.6-6.8.

I know the pH of the water at the LFS where I will probably be getting my fish is about 7.2. I think I am good in terms of the transition the fish will face when I put them in my tank relative to the LFS, but is it bad to keep Frontosa at such a low pH?

I am still trying to figure out this mystery. The only thing I have in my tank is sand and some river rocks. My bigger concern is how I will do water changes. From 6.8 to 8.8 seems like a big transition?


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## Razzo (Oct 17, 2007)

boredatwork said:


> I have a strange situation. The water comes out of my tap at a pH of 8.8. After a day in my tank the pH drops below 7.0 and will level off around 6.6-6.8.
> 
> I know the pH of the water at the LFS where I will probably be getting my fish is about 7.2. I think I am good in terms of the transition the fish will face when I put them in my tank relative to the LFS, but is it bad to keep Frontosa at such a low pH?
> 
> I am still trying to figure out this mystery. The only thing I have in my tank is sand and some river rocks. My bigger concern is how I will do water changes. From 6.8 to 8.8 seems like a big transition?


I am not too swift when it comes to water chemistry as I don't have to worry about it because the hardness (kH & GH) out of my tap is "off the chart hard" which is perfect for frontosa. Because of that (I think) I don't see bad swings in my pH. It has been a while since I read these articles but (without me re-reading them again) I think they may help answer your question. Sorry that I can't be of more help.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/hardness.php

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/gh_kh_ph.php

Good luck!

Russ


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## Razzo (Oct 17, 2007)

Do you use a water softner?


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## lloyd (Aug 24, 2005)

boredatwork said:


> I have a strange situation. The water comes out of my tap at a pH of 8.8. After a day in my tank the pH drops below 7.0 and will level off around 6.6-6.8.


 i would suspect your tap water has a low co2 content. if so, aeration is the simple reason for your ph drop. bottom line: your water source is, what it is, a day after. testing straight off the tap gives false impressions, and makes for unnecessary sales at the LFS. 
you still need to establish kh and gh readings before considering buffering options, but most likely you will require a sodium bicarbonate or calcium carbonate to keep your water in the 8's. you need to establish kh and gh in order to choose the appropriate option for your location. HTH.


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## cichlidgirl1 (Sep 17, 2007)

I would be more concerned with the drastic ph drop when you would be doing a large water change. Most LFS keep their tanks at PH 7 so you are not too far down from that. I would consider buying a large plastic trashcan with a lid and fill it with your water from the tap, add what ever conditions you like then drop in a large air stone (bubble maker) . Let it bubble and stablize over night then add it into the tank after it has dropped ph etc.. You would also be able to safely buffer the ph up to 7.5 or 8 doing that and the water you add into the tank will always be tested and stable.

I have had to do this same process since i have high sulfur gasses in my water and need to use a airstone to remove the sulfur or it kills my fish. This should work for you. PH bounce (sudden up and down) will kill your fish faster than any ph reading that is lower or higher than what the fish normally likes.


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## boredatwork (Sep 14, 2007)

Here are some updates. I spent the last two days reading about this issue. Now I feel like I know too much about water chemistry.

I realized I can easily raise the pH to about 8.2 with a buffer. This is perfect because then I can avoid fluctuations during water changes without a 40 gallon trash can - which I would like to avoid.

But then the problem arises of the transition from the LFS tank to my tank. I am thinking I will get a small tank to perform the transition. I can start it off at about 7.0 and then raise it up to my level over a week or so. I'd rather do it only when I get new fish rather that then have to treat my water every week. Just following the path of least resistance.


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## Charles (Feb 25, 2003)

i would try to find out what ph your LFS's tank is... frontosa can stand a good range of ph. I had them years in 7.4-7.6 and breeding and all there. The key is consistant...


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## boredatwork (Sep 14, 2007)

boredatwork said:


> I know the pH of the water at the LFS where I will probably be getting my fish is about 7.2.


My bigger problems is that I am trying to decide if I should cater to the LFS pH or my tap water pH. Initially out of the tap my water is 8.8. If I keep my tank at 8.8, then I would need some type of acclimation tank or something for new fish. But I won't need to pre-treat my water during water changes. On the other hand if I keep my tank closer to 7.2 then I will need to pre-treat my water during water changes, but its easier to bring home new fish.

I am still debating which option to choose.


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