# Is this stand safe?



## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

A buddy of mine is moving soon and is giving me his stand that he started to build for his 75g. I was planning on starting one anyhow, but when I seen it just has the upright boards on either side and nothing in the center. They are made of 2x6's tho rather than the normal 2x4s.

The two upright peices and the top "ring" that the tank sits on is 2x6s and the bottom ring is 2x4s. Also the bottom is covered with 5/8 plywood as the floor of the stand. The top peice sits on top of the upright peices.










If it isnt needed I would like to keep the big opening in the front to keep easy access in and out of the storage area.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I would say totally safe. The lack of middle support is not a big thing as the tank can actually support itself on just four corners. The odds of the horizontal 2X6 warping enough to hurt on such a short length is small. Is there a back to keep the stand from "racking"? By racking, I mean when the whole thing goes down by the uprights all bending over. A board on the back or front to stop this would be my only question. It may not need it but I can't see well enough to tell.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

It looks sturdy to me. I would frame up the underside of the top to 16" on center and call it a day. You should be fine. If you want to add support I would frame it up like I said above and your piece closest to center I would add a brace maybe a 2x4. 8) This way you have a 5th point of contact and not have to worry about losing too much space.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Yeah this is just the start. I am gonna cover it in 3/8 oak plywood n make doors for it yet. This is just the frame o am getting to start with. Thanks guys for the peace of mind. No more trying to get everything in n out the tiny opening on this store made stand for me!


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Covered in 3/8 plywood, there is no problem. I like to use some type of wood glue between the plywood and the frame so that I can use fewer fasteners that might show and the glue will hold in this use when fasteners might fail. No question about it being secure when the plywood is added. That for sure means the top 2X6 can't go anywhere.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

PfunMo said:


> Covered in 3/8 plywood, there is no problem. I like to use some type of wood glue between the plywood and the frame so that I can use fewer fasteners that might show and the glue will hold in this use when fasteners might fail. No question about it being secure when the plywood is added. That for sure means the top 2X6 can't go anywhere.


Thanks, was just gonna ask how any of you guys hid your fastners. Would you trust glue itself to hold on the sheeting? I am trying to do this on the el cheapo as I dont have much money and since I am gonna be painting my living room soon I wanna be able to have this ready to go when its time to move the tank out from the wall.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

I counter sink all screws and fill with glue . Sand and paint. Unless your going natural you need to build it a little different or get those wood colored round stickers to put over your holes.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Yeah after reading some other threads on diy stands and what not, I think I am gonna make it black as it would be easier to do that then to make the woodgrain match the grain that is on the tank trim. I am gonna look into whether it will be cheaper to use plywood to cover it or if just pine boards would be a cheaper alternative.

Few questions for you guys.

1. Does any one have any photos of a black stand with an oak trimmed tank on it to see what it would look like or if I should paint the trim on the tank black as well.

2. If I do go with plywood would 1/4 inch be thick enough to sheet it with or would it be necessary to go with something that is a little thicker to keep it from buckling or "racking" over to one side or the other?

3. I have a brad nailer, would that be enough to attach the plywood/boards on the outside if I glue it as well or would you think that screws would be the way to go?

4. What do you recommend for sealing the inside of the stand incase any splashed water gets down there from my fry tank? Would Thompson Water Sealer or some other sealer be sufficient?

Thanks in advance. Not gonna get super fancy but would like this to hold up for a while and still look somewhat decent as it will be in plain view in our living room.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

1. I would paint the trim black(krylon fusion). (I'm a black on black fan) 8) 
2.I would go 3/8 its a little thicker and easier then 1/2 or 3/4 
3.if you go plywood I would use screws. I never use nails they always tend to slip and I would glue. 
4.if you are going to paint I would use latex if not water sealer is fine.

Don't forget your net hangers. I built a stand and forgot to put them on. Not a hard fix but I like to conceal as much as possible. Oh and a spot for your power strips/drip loops :thumb:


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Flippercon said:


> Don't forget your net hangers. I built a stand and forgot to put them on. Not a hard fix but I like to conceal as much as possible. Oh and a spot for your power strips/drip loops .


Thanks Flipper! Didnt even think about that. Now should I just make a spot to hang power strips or should I wire in some outlets and switches that has a cord that can just be plugged in to power it all? Hmm.....I think I have all the stuff laying around minus a couple junction boxes so I might have to do that. Sure would be nice to be organized for once!


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

If you got the stuff I would , I have built so many things and once I'm done I see things I should of did :? 
Go all out ! :thumb:


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

How are you set up for clamping while glue dries? With some scrap wood to put between the plywood and the clamp, that is a super way to avoid almost all fasteners. Elmer's carpenters glue is the choice for me but it does take a bit to set. Clamping the stuff gets the glue really spread around and gives it a chance to really get into the grain of the wood so that they are practically one piece when done. If you try to tear down a glue joint, you find the plywood tears apart before the glue joint lots of times. With a good glue joint, no fasteners are needed except to hold the stuff together while it sets up. i go with really cheap power strips and find they work. I'm never certain where and what I'm going to have under the stand and the power strips can be moved around to suit better than fixed boxes. I also find them handy to hit a single switch to turn off heater and filter during work rather than unplugging. I usually hang it on a screw just inside the door where I can reach the switch easy. My light, I like to run off a timer plugged into the wall where it is away from the other activity so it doesn't get turned off or bumped out and wind up needing reset. I find paint on the trim knocks off pretty easy but I do it anyway. Better might be to add a trim board to hide the brown???


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

The trim idea is what I was thinking too but I will not have canopy on this tank so the oak woodgrain trim on the top of the tank will still be exposed. Thinking that a black stand w a woodgrain trim tank wouldnt look too bad.

I dont have another tank big enough to house my fish while i paint the trim either.

Is there any way to safely paint the trim of the tank while in use?


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

I would just plastic bag and tape the you know what out of it. Get plenty of ventilation through the house fans ,Windows whatever works.Then I would paint. Just be satisfied with your tape job. Prep the area very well so the tape forms a good bond.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Wonder how it would look if I use little sponge trim roller I have to do it. That would eliminate the overspray factor and then I would just have to seal off the top really well like you said and should be able to remove the tape and bag shortly after painting.

Prob gonna try and see how it looks without painting it first so I dont have to jeopardize the fish if I dont have too.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

Oh go to your local auto parts store and look for black out tape. I used it to cover the Chrome on my cars. It's vinyl and pretty cheap. That should do the trick. :thumb:


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

A little tip when using glue. Carpenter's glue is not waterproof. It is a poor choice for anything around moisture. Weldbond, which looks and smells like other white glues is waterproof. Latex paint would also be a poor choice for a stand. 
As far as the stand in question goes, you could easily set a car on it. A single vertical 2 x 4 can carry about 25,000lbs, if you can keep it from flexing. That isn't an issue on those short pieces. A 2 x 6 is overkill for a 48" span.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I would be slow to try painting with fish in the tank. It takes very little paint to do them in, I'm afraid. Just one little mistaken flip of the brush might cause you lots of grief. I think I might just look at the brown for my money.


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

My take on a couple of your questions: by all means use the brad nailer to attach the plywood. Brads should penetrate at least 2x the material thickness into the wood. So for 1/4 inch ply use 3/4 inch brads minimum. The brads hold the plywood in place till the glue sets, after that all fasteners are pretty much redundant. With a good quality polyvinyl acetate glue (white glue) the bond is stronger than the wood surrounding it.

1/4 inch ply is ok, but your doors will be very flimsy. It's not a lot more $ to go with the 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Since you are painting it you can save money by going to a cheaper plywood, like G1S fir or pine.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Well finally went and picked up that stand frame out of my buddies storage unit. Instead on there being 2x6 risers (legs) which I though there is 3 - 2x4's in each corner. Guess he didnt want it to go anywhere lol. The back already has a a sheet of 3/8 on it with a few holes for cords already in it and there is the "floor" already in it. So all I need to get is a sheet of whatever I want to use to cover the sides and around the doors on the front, make some doors for it, and paint.

:fish: :fish: :fish: :thumb:

Hopefully I can scrounge up the money to get that last few things I need early this week and get it finished!


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

Good deal. Can't wait to see those pics. opcorn:


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

There decided to just cover it with pine 1x4s and was gonna paint it but now the old lady wants to stain it. :roll: :roll:

Guess I have some sanding to do. Managed to find enough 1x4s laying around that I should only need to get like 4 more 8 footers and some hinges.

If any woodworkers are out there is there any stain that I can put on pine that it make some what match oak? All our cupboards are oak and had I know she wanted it stained I would have at least got the select grade lumber since she wants it to match somewhat.

Will try and get a pic up of it later. Its nothing like the most of the fancy ones on here but I am going for the "rustic" look as that is somewhat the theme in our place.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

xxbenjamminxx said:


> There decided to just cover it with pine 1x4s and was gonna paint it but now the old lady wants to stain it. :roll: :roll:
> 
> Guess I have some sanding to do. Managed to find enough 1x4s laying around that I should only need to get like 4 more 8 footers and some hinges.
> 
> ...


Ouch! As long as she helps sanding. not to sure on the stain.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

@Flipper

:lol: :lol: :lol: Yeah Right! :lol: :lol: :lol:

It gets me out in the garage anyhow. Id think an hour with my palm sander will be enough.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

Check this link out and let your lady read it too.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/re ... 15451.html


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Here are a few pics of what I got so far.










Here is where im putting my fry tank.










Am 2 boards short for the front.










Just need to make some doors tomorrow and then fire up the sander.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

when I stain this does it have to have a poly coat over it?


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## pistolpete (Dec 28, 2009)

Any hardware store you go to will have a sample board of their stains. One row will be stain on pine and the other stain on oak. The best is to take a cabinet drawer or door with you to the store and match the color. Miniwax and Varathane both make stain and poly in one coat products, but in my experience it's easier to get a consistent finish with separate stain and polyeurathane coats. This is because with pure stain you can control the amount of absorbtion a lot better.

Sand to about 180 grit and then wipe with damp cloth. Sand very lightly again and wipe clean again with a slightly damp cloth. Then stain right away. This will open the pores in the wood and knock down the raised grain. then again if you're going for rustic you might be ok with raised grain.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

@jordan. Thanks for the tips! Gonna run n grab the rest of the materials this morning and hope to finish it up tonight. I like doing these diy projects.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Well got the doors made, and the rest of the boards on for the covering of it.

Got one coat of stain on it so far and might try and get another one on before I go to bed to darken it up a little.

Would you recommend going over it with some #0000 Steel Wool prior to the 2nd coat or do yous think it would be fine with out any final sanding? I am using Minwax Stain and Seal if that matters.

Here is what I have so far. Turning out better then I thought it would and am getting pretty excited to start getting the electrical and other final things on it so I can it setup in the house.



















Here is one of the doors.


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## Flippercon (Mar 5, 2011)

Looking good :thumb:


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## Cunados (Apr 13, 2011)

I'd caution against using 0000 steel wool if your stain and/or top coat is water based (latex). If the Minwax products are oil based steel wool is ok. When using a latex product any residual steel wool particles will rust and discolor the surrounding wood.

Good luck.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Yeah read on their website not to sand between coats as it doesn't raise the grain. So I just did a second coat and its looking quite nice for a total of about $32! :thumb:

See how it looks in the morning n all I need now is hinges, which I think I have extras from someold cabinets I ripped apart last summer. I guess being a hoarder has its benefits.

Not much darker, but hoping it will seal it more against any drips.


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## xxbenjamminxx (Jan 22, 2011)

Well here is the final thing. The door turned out a little iffy but will redo them some other time.










Pics are a little blurry, but will get some new ones up when once I get the living room painted and stand put up on it. I really think I am gonna love how it is almost 8 inches taller than the other one.


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## treym563 (Apr 23, 2011)

That stand looks great! I'm going to start building my stand pretty soon cause my tank came with one of those fold-flat stands that I don't trust at all. The stain looks really good, I think I'm gonna do that on mine.


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