# fx5 and Aquatop CF400UV



## jhale512 (Jun 27, 2011)

hello all, i am still cycling my 125 currently witha fx5. just ordered an aquatop cf400 for support. my question is should i use the fx5 for bio filtration and the aquatop for mechanical or have both on both filters??


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

I have the fx5 and the aquatop cf500uv model. I use both mechanical and bio in both filters. I would recommend getting some blue/white bonded filter pads in sheets($5) and cutting them to fit the aquatop. You will get better flow. I also use them in my fx5 for added mechanical. They trap a lot more than the sponges do while still allowing great flow. It helps to polish the water as well.


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## jhale512 (Jun 27, 2011)

do you remove the sponges that came with the fx5 or keep them just adding the bonded filter pads on top>?


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

jhale512 said:


> do you remove the sponges that came with the fx5 or keep them just adding the bonded filter pads on top>?


I leave the sponges and put the pads on top of the bio media in each tray except for the bottom tray where the pad is under the media to keep any pieces of media from falling down into the impeller chamber. If you do go this route then the white side of the pads face down. In the aquatop the white faces up. The white pads that come with the aquatop shred real easy after the first cleaning so be careful with them or replace them with the bonded filter pads like I did. I did keep one of the white pads to put on the very top of my second basket from the bottom on top of the bonded pad. The white pads are more fine a mesh so when they become saturated with waste the flow will slow a bit that is why I opted to use only one and the bonded pads in the other spots.


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## Dawg2012 (May 10, 2012)

13razorbackfan said:


> ... and put the pads on top of the bio media in each tray except for the bottom tray where the pad is under the media to keep any pieces of media from falling down into the impeller chamber. ...


I put my pads on the bottom in all three trays - so I got this wrong?

I understand the logic on the bottom tray.

I guess I really need to sit down and think about how the water flows through the filter (especially since I just ordered two more!) instead of just putting it together. Bad Dawg... Bad Dawg...


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

Dawg2012 said:


> 13razorbackfan said:
> 
> 
> > ... and put the pads on top of the bio media in each tray except for the bottom tray where the pad is under the media to keep any pieces of media from falling down into the impeller chamber. ...
> ...


Leave the pad on the bottom of the bottom tray. In the other two trays put it on top. White side facing down. The water flows into this filter through a tube then out of the tube under the sponges. Back up through the sponges then over the top of the top basket then down through the baskets where it meets the impeller then out a tube back to the top. Hope that makes sense.


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## Dawg2012 (May 10, 2012)

Yup! And it saves me having to figure it out!  Thanks.


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## jhale512 (Jun 27, 2011)

thank you so much razorbackfan! this site is lucky to have such informative and helping hands like yourself!

i have some questions about spraybars would it be easier to start another thread or just continue this one.


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## Dawg2012 (May 10, 2012)

Razor... I looked and didn't see a Spraybar DIY thread from you.

I think I'd like to build a couple for my new 125 and 180. I just ordered an FX5 for both.

If you could send me the details I'd be happy to document the process with pictures and post a thread about it? Giving you full credit of course


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## fusion (Jun 21, 2012)

Dawg2012 said:


> Razor... I looked and didn't see a Spraybar DIY thread from you.
> 
> I think I'd like to build a couple for my new 125 and 180. I just ordered an FX5 for both.
> 
> If you could send me the details I'd be happy to document the process with pictures and post a thread about it? Giving you full credit of course


I remember reading it but i cant find it also, it may be embedded in another post

You can always do another, the more the better


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## Dawg2012 (May 10, 2012)

The value would be two fold... I'd document it for others, with pictures (cause some of us are just literarily illiterate, like me) and it would also serve to focus my attention during the process, which is NEVER a bad thing lol...


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

Dawg2012 said:


> Razor... I looked and didn't see a Spraybar DIY thread from you.
> 
> I think I'd like to build a couple for my new 125 and 180. I just ordered an FX5 for both.
> 
> If you could send me the details I'd be happy to document the process with pictures and post a thread about it? Giving you full credit of course


Okey dokey.

I will give you a list of stuff so you can buy and document with video or pictures and then I can link people to it. While I did make a video it wasn't a detailed step by step it was more of a "after" video showing the results. I did make a list somewhere of all the parts but don't remember where so I will list them again.

This is for the FX5 but all spray bars can be made using the same exact parts just need to change the sizes of said parts. In the case of the FX5 it will be all 3/4" ID(inner diameter) PVC and 1" ID vinyl hose. All the listed sizes are ID(inner diameter) sizes.

1 - 10' stick of 3/4" PVC
6 - 90 degree elbows 3/4"....if you store has the sweeping elbows these are better as they allow for a more gradual turn inside the elbow if not the standard will work fine
1 - 3/4" endcap
1 - length of 1" vinyl braided hose(it is clear with the braided reinforcement inside looks like a mesh) and length is dependent on how far the filter is away from the spray bar itself so just cut to fit after installing the spray bar on the tank. 
3 - metal hose clamps. Make sure they are big enough to fit around the vinyl hose
1 - can of krylon fusion black spray paint
1 - small container of PVC cement

All the above parts should be between $20-25 depending on where you buy and what part of the country

These are what is needed to make the spray bar but the length and hole size and space are dependent on the size tank you have. So a 75g and a 240g are going to be very different lengths and hole combinations. My spray bar including the two elbows in the tank is roughly 41" in length. Always start your holes smaller so you can make them bigger if needed. I think a total of 38 - 40 holes being 1/8" in size are perfect or at least for the amount of flow I wanted. I did have to round mine out bigger because I have a very fine sand and it was blowing it clear from the front of the tank. My holes are spaced 1" apart.

Here is the video I mentioned above






I should have made pics showing step by step but I will do my best to explain.

The PVC fits into each able and goes in about 3/4". To connect each elbow you will have to use a piece of PVC you cut. If you want to make a perfect U shape without any PVC showing then cut 1.5" length of PVC and the elbows will engulf it totally so no PVC will be showing. You want to glue everything EXCEPT the vinyl hose, you will use two hose clamps, and where the spray bar itself meets the two elbows on the left and the right under the water. That way you can rotate it 360 degrees or which ever direction you want. This also allows you to swap out different spray bars with different hole combinations and different lengths.

So what I did was figured out what length I wanted the spray bar, including the elbows, inside the tank. I figured roughly 41" total. That gave me a bit over 3" on either side for heater or anything else I wanted to add to the tank. So I then took my little handsaw, small teeth saw usually used for cutting metal, and cut the spray bar to 39". I then attached a elbow to each end. I then cut two 1.5" pieces of PVC and put one in each elbow. I then put another elbow on the end of each 1.5" piece of PVC. When the elbows are on the PVC that connects them is almost invisible. I then cut two 3" pieces of PVC(just a note here that I used 3" here because I wanted my spray bar to hang over my aquatop input and output) but you need to cut them to size according to your tank lip/trim. If the trim is 1" then add 1.5" to that because remember the elbow will engulf 3/4" of the PVC and you will be fitting this piece of PVC into two elbows. You will need to cut two of these, one for the left side and one for the right. Now insert the PVC into the elbow and then grab your last elbows and insert them onto the PVC on the left and the right. Now cut a 2" piece of PVC and put in one of the elbows(the side you cap this off is the opposite side the filter attaches to the spray bar) then put the end cap over the PVC. Now cut about a 8" piece of PVC and insert into the other elbow. Then attach the hose over the elbow going up about 6" then putting two metal hose clamps on and tighten really tight. To get the vinyl hose over the PVC you will have to soak 6" of the hose in hot water or run it under hot tap water to make it flexible. Then work it on. It will be tight but keep working it up on the PVC. It will go I promise. Then you can tighten the hose clamps. Once the hose cools it will become super tight against the PVC and will probably be good enough on its own but use the hose clamps to be sure.

Now put it in your tank and make sure it all fits ok. If you want to make it go down further in the tank then cut another two pieces of PVC and replace the one that is in their to lengthen it. Once everything is the way you want take it all back out and dry it off or let it dry, NOT IN THE SUN as it will warp the PVC, on its own. Then while it is still together paint it as it is easier otherwise the PVC will roll around and it is hard to paint. Once painted then use the PVC cement and glue together. Once it is dry it is permanently set and will not ever come apart.

You also want to make sure you drill your spray bar holes before you paint otherwise when you drill the holes with be white and the spray bar will be black. Also it is very important to try and make the holes and the line you draw to drill the holes as straight as possible. Another forum member used a piece of scrap PVC and put it next to the spray bar and ran a sharpie in between the two creating a perfectly straight and level line. Then mark using a tape measure how far apart you want the holes. Since I found that 40 holes at 1/8" in size is about perfect then the spacing of each hole will depend on how long your tank and spray bar is. Say you have a 6' tank and you make a 50" spray bar. Divide 50" by 40(holes) and that gives you your spacing. When drilling the holes try your best to drill straight and not at an angle. Also start with a really small bit and drill out each hole first. I used a 1/16" bit and drilled all my holes then went back with the 1/8" bit. The small bit first is kind of a starter hole and doesn't allow as much walking on the round PVC.

I think that about covers it. It sounds complicated but I assure you it is not. It is very easy, cheap and a fun DIY project.


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## Dawg2012 (May 10, 2012)

Dude, makes total sense! Thank You!

I'm going to tackle the 4' tank tomorrow - and use the knowledge gained for the 6' tanks.

Only one question (for now), why cement after painting? Isn't there a risk of chipping paint during disassembly/reassembly and/or not getting something back in the same spot - thus having white PVC show through?


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

Dawg2012 said:


> Dude, makes total sense! Thank You!
> 
> I'm going to tackle the 4' tank tomorrow - and use the knowledge gained for the 6' tanks.
> 
> Only one question (for now), why cement after painting? Isn't there a risk of chipping paint during disassembly/reassembly and/or not getting something back in the same spot - thus having white PVC show through?


Just make sure everything is tight before painting. If you try and paint over the PVC glue it might not look very good. I have never tried to paint over the glue but just assumed it might not stick or might look weird.


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

13razorbackfan said:


> Dawg2012 said:
> 
> 
> > Razor... I looked and didn't see a Spraybar DIY thread from you.
> ...


Made a typo above...highlighted in red. It is supposed to say elbow and not able. Also...in the video above I don't show the spray bar until about 2:15 mark of the video.


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## Dawg2012 (May 10, 2012)

So basically like this... Pretty straight forward.

Off to the hardware store. Wish me luck. I wasn't terribly successful gluing models together as a kid... It either worked... or became one with the wall.


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

Where did you get that? That is awesome diagram. That is EXACTLY what mine looks like. I am going to save this thread so I can just point people to it.

As for gluing it. It is not really glue but it actually fuses the PVC together. Just run the applicator around the inside of the elbow and around the PVC itself and stick it in. Make sure everything is aligned straight because you don't have much time before it starts to fuse. Once glued it doesn't matter how good you were at gluing when you were a kid it will absolutely stay together I assure you.

Make sure to document with pics or video and I will have a mod sticky this thread in the DIY section.


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## austings (May 12, 2012)

Thats an awesome diagram. That will help alot of people build their own spray bar.


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## SobrietyRocks707 (Feb 23, 2012)

austings said:


> Thats an awesome diagram. That will help alot of people build their own spray bar.


 :thumb:

If I saw this diagram, I wouldn't be re-doing mine :lol:


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## Dawg2012 (May 10, 2012)

13razorbackfan said:


> Where did you get that? That is awesome diagram. That is EXACTLY what mine looks like.


Thanks. I work with CAD and built it from your description - so your description must have been pretty good! :thumb:

I started work on the spray bar today... however I left my camera card here at work so... here I am at work getting it so I can take pictures as I go .

You have me thinking about where I have my inlet. It's all the way in one corner of the tank (with the logic being move water all the way from one end to the other end - Idk I guess I was thinking I wouldn't have any dead spots that way?!). But... there is logic to your approach... and after all sucking up all that poo is what it's all about.

I may wind up with the inlet being centered, and the spray bar on either side. If I do that I will elbow around the inlet as I want the spray bar all the way on the back wall.

Ya know... if the inlet was centered, and the spray bar was also centered and ran back to front... with the holes facing left AND right... I wonder if it wouldn't naturally circulate everything right into the inlet? Ah... so many possibilities... and each is going to take like... less than $5 to explore!


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## 13razorbackfan (Sep 28, 2011)

Dawg2012 said:


> 13razorbackfan said:
> 
> 
> > Where did you get that? That is awesome diagram. That is EXACTLY what mine looks like.
> ...


I think it varies from tank to tank depending on size of tank(dimensions), rock work, hole configuration, other water movers(power heads, circ pumps or filters), etc....

I thought the same thing originally about centering the intake. I found out that it actually works better in the corner of my tank with my other filter pointing, not at the intake of the fx5 but rather just towards the other side of the tank in general. It creates almost a swirl where the flow follows my glass and everything dead ends in the corner. I know GTZ has done this as well with his spray bar and he does very little vacuuming either as the waste makes its way to the intake.

Remember, if you make the spray bar extend out a few inches that your glass top will probably have to be cut to fit. That is what I had to do. I went to the local hardware store and for $20 had new glass tops cut to my specific size.

I think the best thing you could do is just play around with it. Try it in the middle and see if it works. Then move it to the corner and see how it works there. Just trial and error.


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