# Auto water changer



## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

I have looked at quite a few plans with a weekly auto water changer and there are a few things I have questions about.

This is the main place I found my info
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/sh ... p?t=128707

I am trying to find a way to put that in my sump but that design wont work because my sump is not big enough, I want to change 50g a week and sump is a 40G, only 1/3 full at max.

Now this is my plan, and want to make sure it would be ok.

Pump on timer in 55g reservoir turns on to fill 50 gallons through return line from sump 
Separate pump on separate timer turns on in sump to drain 50 gallons.

Its pretty simple, yet I havent found something like it, they all use float switches and solenoids.

On a second matter- Can I tee my RO line to 2 top off floats, one in the sump and one in the 55G reservoir?

Finally, will using a smaller return line increase head on a pump? Specifically, I have a quiet one 4000 and it will be in the reservoir on the floor below the tank and the distance from reservoir to sump is between 9 and 10 ft, almost max head. If instead of using 1 inch tubing and use 1/2 inch tubing, will that increase head and flow?


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

Man, the 2 timer set-up would keep me up at night...
That is why all the additional electronics on your example, no flooding or turning your tank into a frog pond.
Going down in tubing size would make your pump have to work even harder.
Can`t remember where I saw a "constant loss" style system, it is always losing at the same rate it fills, so no worrys about conditioning the water at the low volume being replaced. It was all done in the sump..it was a pretty simple set-up if your drainage/water source are close at hand. The whole thing was done with airline tubing and simple flow valves.
Might google that?


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## moto_master (Jun 23, 2006)

LOL, I googled it and it brought me back to this page! :lol:


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

Ok I thought about it more and I have had quite a few timers fail on me before too lol. How can I implement this in the sump, my water level isnt high enough to exchange 50 gallons at once and I really dont want the valves in the tank. I will keep searching as well


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

> , I googled it and it brought me back to this page


Know what you mean  
Pretty sure I saw a system that used drip irragation stuff, again, not an all at once changer.
The large volume of water you want to change at a time is what concerns me. Would have to be fool-proof. That`s why I keep going back to a small amount, spaced over a long time period of time...any error would not be catastrophic.
Still wonder where your water source/drainage is?? or would have to use storage vessels??
Cruise thru some of the "Reefer/Saltwater" fourms, those guys come up with some very cool stuff, plus you get to giggle over how "full of themselves" some of them are. :lol:


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

Well the water source is in the basement four feet left and 10 ft down, as well as the drain, yes I would be using a big 55 gal trash barrel

I have always thought they were full of themselves as well haha but i will check that out


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## moto_master (Jun 23, 2006)

So you're wanting to change all 50 gallons at once? Are you wanting to drain all 50 gallons from your tank before you add the fresh water? If not, you can simply add a siphon overflow, and put the pump in the reservoir on a timer. When the pump turns on it starts filling your tank system, and when the water gets above your siphon overflow it will start draining it to the sewer. Pretty simple really. What do you think?


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

ideally I want the water out before putting new water in, but that option would work too. How would a siphon overflow in the sump work, I dont have room for a large box like the one hanging on back of my tank, nor would it reach far enough down


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

schaumie2222 said:


> ideally I want the water out before putting new water in, but that option would work too. How would a siphon overflow in the sump work, I dont have room for a large box like the one hanging on back of my tank, nor would it reach far enough down


 You drill a hole in the sump at the minimum water level. Install a bulkhead fitting with internal threads. Screw in a short piece of threaded pipe with an elbow and riser on the end, inside the sump. When you want to drain out extra water, you bend it down. Attach a hose to drain water away to any lower spot. If you don't have such a spot, you can drain it to a secondary sump container that has a level actuated sump pump in it.


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

its a glass tank and i dont really feel comfortable drilling it


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

http://www.aquahub.com/store/diygaquarium.html
I know it`s not what you want, but thought it might help get the wheels turning.


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

if I used this, and I cut the overflow part wayyyy down to almost the elbow, would it still work? I dont fully understand the overflows made of pvc :-( but I think that is the route I should take for the overflow in sump


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## moto_master (Jun 23, 2006)

I haven't built one so I don't know how that would affect the flow rate, but I believe that as long as the water inlet is higher than the "T" fitting, and the "T" fitting is above the U on the inside of the tank, it should work. But working with that little of space, I'd have concerns about air bubbles getting into the top U, building up, and then cutting off the siphon. Maybe some one that has one will get on here and give his advice.


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## Rizup (Jan 29, 2008)

I have my 125g setup with a continuous water change system like the one that FMueller uses on his tank. As of right now, I use a siphon overflow, but I will be drilling for a bulkhead within the next week or two. I just want the extra peace of mind that not using the siphon will provide. The siphon has worked fine for about 6 months as long as I remember to check it for air bubbles now and then. I also drained the tank below the siphon intake once, but I found it well before it would have overflowed. I also have float switches installed to alert me to a high or low water level in the sump (a little peace of mind).

Mike


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

do you have any pictures of what the overflow looks like?


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

ok can somebody tell me if this will work, the red line is max water level


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## Rizup (Jan 29, 2008)

I made an overflow similar to a design I have seen in the library here. I'll see if I can get a pic at some point, probably tomorrow.

Mike


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

Have you and prov356 talked???Have you seen his system
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=188211
Looked to me his and your supply/drain were simelar.


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

KaiserSousay said:


> Have you and prov356 talked???Have you seen his system
> http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=188211
> Looked to me his and your supply/drain were simelar.


cant drill my tank though


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

Man, this thing is really under my skin now...so many ways to do this in a "hands on" way, but throwing the automated in just has me po head swimmin..
Without solenoid valves and float switches the thing would just not be safe enough for me to trust it
Gee, sure am glad I saw your post :-? but then again, I`m just thinking about it, while you are living it..hmmmm, feel a bit better now.


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

what is the float switch /solenoid option to have it in the sump, without turning my sump pumps off? I had a reason why i thought i couldnt do that, but have now forgot. I dont want the float switches in the main tank either and my sump at max level is like 15 gallons (of 40 gallons)


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

I was thinking of a way to divert your main line going to your sump, but the cost of those big valves..shessh..would be cheaper to hire somebody to change your water for you.
With no switches in the main tank, kinda throws another kink in it.
Anyway, with the latching relays needed, end up back at the "reefers" set-up..lots of electronics for safety.


> without turning my sump pumps off?


Part of the latching relay would have turned your sump pump off while the diverter valve in your sump line was open, draining your 50gal..but that needed a float switch in the tank to unlatch and start the fill portion of the cycle...maybe a way to divert water to a vessal with a switch set at 50gal(huge trash can??)but your sump pump would still need to be stopped untill the 50 was reached and the fill began..out of what??..another huge can, with water ready to get pumped back in(in expensive 1/3 hp sump pump???)
Sorry, I`m getting myself lost again.
How about I just come over and change your water for you :lol:


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

well eventually if my diy denitrator does not perform to my expectations, im going to build something similar to the picture above, will let you know what happens


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## schaumie2222 (Oct 28, 2004)

how about a pump in the sump pumping out at say 10 gallons per day accomplished with a ball valve, and a float switch automatically replenishing water, if for some reason the pump goes out..the float switch will stop.... can you dial a pump down that much witha ball valve... i know you CAN but will the pump die?

edit: how about just dialing a doser pump to 1 gallon an hour or so


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## Rizup (Jan 29, 2008)

How much are you willing to spend on this? If you don't mind spending about $400-$500, there is a simple and safe solution. You can DIY for cheaper, but you have to find a deal on parts, etc.

Mike


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