# New 125g here. Ideas, thoughts, and advice



## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Alright guys and gals. Just received my CL 125g. Included were:

Fluvial 304 & Aqua Tech 30-60
Various items for care and maintenance (ammo, carbon, prime, etc...)
Custom lights. (4 under canopy and one 4' hood with full spec day and black light)
River rocks (20lbs or so)
Decor( log, plants, cichlid caves, and more
Canopy & Stand. ( a little worn but sturdy) 
125 gallon tank( more scratches then I thought and also sealed bulk heads on rear glass) 
All for $350 and it was delivered (about 38 miles or so)

The plan:
After thorough cleaning and some reinforcement to woodwork for easy sleep, I want to diy background (drawing later). I would like to have both rear corners and about 2 feet on each side to cover back glass. Leaving about 2' open in middle of tank for a cavern appeal.

I will purchase another fluval 406 and AC110 for filtration. Diy spray bars for canisters and all intakes and heaters to be concealed by BG. I won't use aqua 30-60 unless necessary???

Project needs and rough pricing:
406-$200 
AC110-$70 ( both from Amazon)
PVC and supplies for spraybar-$40-$50)
Black diamond blasting sand for substrate-2 50lbs bags-7.99 each
Hot wire foam cutter kit-$30 used
Silicone and paints-$30
Styrofoam provided by Wayside furniture-$$$$free$$$ lol
Drylok-$25( what kind and how much needed)

Based on this list, what do you guys think? And is drylok without quikrete OK? Second time doing a diy bg. A first using drylok. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Rough sketch of BG. Definitely not to scale but hopefully you can see where I'm going


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## Graffiti (Aug 17, 2013)

that background will look great, make sure to paint the back glass if your going to leave it open in the middle like that..nice sketch. The AC110 HOB filter will fit in that canopy?


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Thanks Graffit...I can only hope I find the "Michaelangelo" in me and can take it from paper to Styrofoam.

The AC110 should be ok (I hope) because nothing on the back comes in contact with the tank except a small section midway(center brace) that serves a a "lip"/support shelf for the actual canopy. So I pretty much have two 34 inch sections of unobscured tank on the back glass


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## ozman (Sep 7, 2012)

i'm not sure that i'm on the right track here. anyway treat that centre brace as essential to your tanks overall structural entegrity. it's not there for any other purpose, and i would be surprised that it needs to help hold up your canopy.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Graffiti.. I plan on placing different shades of blue wrapping paper on back of tank where it is open to create a cavern visual. Its I idea I thought was genius by another member.










Ozman...after checking the strength of the support that WAS there, it popped right off the canopy. But directly at the point where the center brace is located, a small support piece of wood came down from canopy and rested on tank edge at this location.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

A couple more ideas....
I want to use a diy rock structure about midway in tank and position at a 45 degree angle with sand over its back. Think of a sand dune with a cave system on the exposed due to wind erosion?? Best way I can explain it.

Also I was thinking of using PVC with good size wholes cut in it and placing them underneath my rock work to create more caves/hiding spots. A subterranean "cave system" beneath the actual cave system.

Thoughts???


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

I'm not sure whey you are making spraybars. Most canisters come with them. Do you want custom spraybars?


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

What's up Hinds? Yea from the economical stand point and for the experience I guess. I think it will provide wiggle room for customization and will help reduce water sound from output whenever water level gets low. If all goes well with this project, I have a few people in the area willing to pay for my services lol. I like knowing how things work and all options available to me


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

JohnnyJohanni1 said:


> What's up Hinds? Yea from the economical stand point and for the experience I guess. I think it will provide wiggle room for customization and will help reduce water sound from output whenever water level gets low. If all goes well with this project, I have a few people in the area willing to pay for my services lol. I like knowing how things work and all options available to me


Good nuf! I'm the same way!


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

I have another question. My venustus is about 6-7" and healthy. I plan on purchasing an o. Lithobates z. Rock ( if I can find what I'm looking for) Will this be a bad idea in the 125 if I get him around the 2.5-3" mark? I really love the way this fish looks and acts as I have a friend who has one. Absolutely gorgeous. If anyone can chime in it will be greatly appreciated


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)




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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

After some sweat and blood this weekend (box cutter mishap) I have finished my background and have it setting in place in the tank.

I started with my sheets of Styrofoam 3/4" thick. I wound up layering one side 5 layers the other 4. Used a good sized steak knife, hot wire styro cutter, saw, wire brush, and of course silicone.

Left side








Right









Next came the drylok. I purchased two small cans one white one gray. My first coat was the gray which served as the base. Then came white with a little bit of royal blue liquid Rit Dye. Then came the detail coat of white/gray mix in different shades for detail and highlight.









Detail









Flash on









Then came the task of putting silicone on back. I outlined the entire background then "drew" a circle and made a spiderweb pattern to connect all lines. I did this so that in the event water does somehow get past outline bead, the water would run into another "chamber" so to speak.

All that was left was securing it in place which took some "ingenuity" lol









So now is the waiting game for everything to cure.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I came out very natural looking. Good job dude!


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Thanx Iggy. It took some time but once I figured out the "formula" it really took shape. First time using drylok and by far it is way better to work with than quikrete IMO. This forum in general is like the brainchild a million mad scientist. Lol. I looked over so much info and "stole" what I thought sounded good and went for it. Baptism by fire I guess. I do appreciate all the help and will def contribute my trials with you all once completed.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Background is installed as well as spray bar. Cycling now with 30 gallons from 55gallon and the rest pretreated water I had sitting for a few days.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Looks sharp, dude.

Are you planning on painting the back of the tank black? I would, for sure.


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## drewmaen (Apr 28, 2013)

Can you show step by step on how you made that background at least give the materials needed to make something like that it is awesome. I just purchased a 100 gallon tank and would love to do something like that. Great job!


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Thanks Iggy. What I was thing for the back panel was something similar to Steve C's project titled My 55gallon Mbuna Project. I want to be able to use the way the light hits the back wall somehow. I believe he used wrapping paper of some sort.

Drewmaen forgive me for not taking pics of each step of the project. Slipped my mind and honestly didn't know how it would turn out. I can give you a list of materials and some steps taken.

First: If you look at early on in this thread I drew a pic of what I wanted to do. I think this proved to be the most helpful part of the process because it kept me focused on that exact goal with little deviation. START THERE lol. Long with the drawing make sure to include dimensions of tank

Second: supplies. 8'x4'x3/4" styro board from lowes-$12
2-1 qt cans of drylok (gray and white) $7.99 each
Measuring tape-$4
T-square-$7
4-pack of ge silicone I-$18
Hot wire styro knife-$25 @ Joanns
All other supplies used I already had (box cutter, hand saw, rotary saw, caulking gun, steak knife and marker)

Third. Decide how you are going to add depth based on dimensions. For me I decided I wanted each side 2 feet long by 18 inches tall(which had to be altered to 16") I then cut out 2 2'x16" pieces of styro to serve base pieces and drew my first layer. Once cut out I repeated step but traced my cut out onto it. Then I drew second layer onto styro and cut. I repeated this for all 4 layers of the right side. For the left side I pretty much did the same thing except after layer 1 I copied it and drew out the "rocks" to be cutout from it. I also numbered them to remind myself how many times I would need to copy each piece to stack up for depth.

Once all layers were cut and siliconed, I went at it as a whole with steak knife and hot wire cutter to carve and design. Best advice is to go with your heart. Hack away until you love it. Lol. Once satisfied use a wire brush to scuff it up. Provides a rough surface for drylok to adhere to.

Fourth: drylok. The drylok really does go on like paint which I found cool because it makes it seem like art. I found that the gray base coat worked out because it allowed for all the deep grooves to take on the darker color for later. After a few hours (3-4) I did my next coat of white. It really didn't look as I thought it would at first but once I let it dry for a night it showed the true colors. Next came a coat of white, gray, and a little royal blue in between. I used a large plate as a pallet to mix colors. I had pure white all the way to a very dark blue/gray. I dry brushed the areas I felt needed a little more love to make contrast to the eye. Let it dry then secured it into my clean tank. ( make sure glass is clean beforehand)


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## NJmomie (Jan 17, 2013)

Is that background flush against the back of the tank? I think it would be really nice with lighting from the back but you need to somehow hide the black thing hanging down, is that a cord? Also, what color substrate are you going to add and more rocks to the front of the tank?


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Yea the background sits flush against the glass. The chord is my output hose to the spraybar so that can be worked out/altered. 
I'm thinking a black substrate will work best but haven't decided on rocks. I have to get over to local landscaper to see what's available.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

JohnnyJohanni1 said:


> Yea the background sits flush against the glass. The chord is my output hose to the spraybar so that can be worked out/altered.
> I'm thinking a black substrate will work best but haven't decided on rocks. I have to get over to local landscaper to see what's available.


I would try to silicone that background to your tank so that no water, dirt and fish could get behind it and cause a mess. If stuff is trapped back there it will pollute your water.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

I already have it in place. That last photo is of the background siliconed and tank full of water. No water behind background at all. I think my spiderweb idea worked for silicone


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

JohnnyJohanni1 said:


> I already have it in place. That last photo is of the background siliconed and tank full of water. No water behind background at all. I think my spiderweb idea worked for silicone


Excellent!


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

As of now I'm letting my fluval 304 run on it by itself. I promised the misses I would use all used equipment for this tank since wedding planning is starting to get SERIOUS. I have a guy willing to let go of a cascade 1500 for $100 which I think is fair since he used it for two months and is now getting rid of it due to deployment. And I'm waiting in the wind for an AC110 to show up at the LFS which happens about twice a week.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

So....I have done a "hyper-cycle" if there is such a thing. Filled the tank with about 65 gallons of water from my 55 over a weeks times. Also filled AC and Cascade 1500 with saturated media from a friends and my own Emperor 400. Once levels stabilized I waited about 48 hours and placed a few fish in the 125. I'm now at the point where I could use some help with the aquascape, mainly the left and right sides. I placed larger rocks in the middle because I still wanted 3d background to be visible and also piled substrate higher and lower in some spots to add some contrast in sightlines. I am going to place a few mbuna in this tank so rock caves have to be placed somewhere. Right now I in the 125 I have:

1 venustus 7"
1 N. Fusco 2-3/4"
1 fuelleborni 5"
1 callainos cobalt blue 4"

All were housed in 55gallon previously until I had this one up and running hence the "hyper-cycle". The remainder of the stocking list will be

O.lithobates z-roc
C.mloto likoma
Both show males from online vendor. The rest will be a package of medium size haps from vendor. Any suggestions, concerns, questions, or advice will be received with an open heart lol. (I'm in a great mood BTW. I think its because my fiancé hasn't used the word wedding at all so far today. True bridezilla)









Just don't have a clue what to do on this side


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

I really like the way it looks now. Maybe sprinkle in a few anubias and java fern and call it good.


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## Qozux (Sep 3, 2013)

I think that one of those dark colored tunnels you can buy at lfs that has 1 or 2 holes in the walls would look great leaned up against the side at an angle.

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.j ... lInUS%2FNo
something like that


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Thanx Hinds. I have never done live plants so that itself should be an interesting experiment. You don't think I should add a rock structure for the mbuna I plan on adding?

@Qozux I actually have two of those log ornaments from my first tank lying around somewhere. Have to see if I can find them


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I'm concerned with how you 'cycled' the tank. I know you used some established media, and you don't have many fish in the tank. But there is no beneficial bacteria in the water column, and adding it from your other tank would have not helped the cycle. Do you know what your readings are now? What do you mean by 'stabilized' levels?

Are you going for all male? You'll need to be very selective in choosing mbuna to mix with haps. I have no personal experience with all male, but everything on the forum suggests that mbuna are much too aggressive for haps. Yellow labs are a norm, but not metriaclima and labeotropheus. Just something to think about...


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

if you run into cycle problems seachem stability works great. I used it to cycle a 55 gallon in a week in an emergency (with fish in it).


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## Steve C (Oct 9, 2011)

Looks good Johnny. What I used was a heavy paper, hit the local "paper party" type stores and you will find a nice thick style blue paper there, that is what I used. One thing you will want to do though is once you put the paper on then just go to the local home hardware store and buy a sheet of clear thin lexan/plexi-glass. Then cut that to cover the paper on the back of the tank and seal the edges with some good heavy clear tape. That will make it so that the humidity+dripped water from pwc's wont get the paper wet and ruin the look. Then just light it up with some 20" long AC inverter CCL's. If you want the link to the place I bought mine from just Pm me and I'll send the link to ya.

Steve


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

When I started the cycle I pulled my fluval 304 which had been running for a little under a month on my 55, over to the 125. Told the guy who owns the local fish store my situation and he gave me a filter bag full of goodies as he called it and told me to keep it near my intake. Also sold me a bottle of Prime. I began running the 304and an AC 110 on the tank as soon as I had it filled. Ran test every day for a week and waited for ammonia and nitrite to go up then come down. First ammonia reading taken was .5 and nitrite at 1. Nitrate was at 80. Since, ammonia has hit 0, 1ppm being the highest it reached. Nitrite:2, and nitrate has never risen past 80. All readings the 2 days before adding fish were ammo:0,nitrite:0,nitrate:15, pH: 8.0. I added fish and nitrate went up to 25 and has since dropped to 10. Do I know if everything is perfect?. Know. Am I confident if things go wrong I will be able to "fix it"? Yes. There is a wealth of knowledge on this site and a lot of helpful members. As well as Rick at the shop who makes house calls lol.


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## bwestgsx06 (Sep 21, 2011)

good stuff. best of luck.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

So I added a few fake plants to see if I like the tank with plants at all. If I decide to do plants I will be going for real ones to keep it natural. Haven't got around to fully stocking the tank being that I will be head for n.j. in a week for dad's surprise 50th bday. While there I do know of a nice local store off of rt22 that carries a lot of exotic fish so might see what I can get for the trip home before placing an order. They have assured me I will be OK for at least 16-18 hour trip.









What do you guys think? Plants/No plants


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

If the fish are sealed in a bag with stress coat it should be ok. If you keep them in buckets be sure to have battery operated aerators in them. I learned the hard way that fihs can't survive very long in a bucket without aeration. How they survive in those tiny bags overnight I'll never know.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Oh yes, and' the fake plants aren't bad, but I think it will look better with real one. If you plan to have mbuna about the only plants they won't mow over are anubias.


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## JohnnyJohanni1 (Jul 8, 2013)

Yea the guy said they would be in bags with some type of solution that keeps them calm during transport??? I'm with you. How they make it in the bags beats me. I'm still planning on doing all male haps with the few mbuna I have in there already. (Acei, yellow labs, a callaino, and fuelleborni). I already have my N.fusco and N.venustus. so before I order online I'm gonna check out the store in NJ.

I do like the added color of the plants, just not sure to how long they will last after I get actual live flora


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

JohnnyJohanni1 said:


> Yea the guy said they would be in bags with some type of solution that keeps them calm during transport??? I'm with you. How they make it in the bags beats me. I'm still planning on doing all male haps with the few mbuna I have in there already. (Acei, yellow labs, a callaino, and fuelleborni). I already have my N.fusco and N.venustus. so before I order online I'm gonna check out the store in NJ.
> 
> I do like the added color of the plants, just not sure to how long they will last after I get actual live flora


I'm not sure what that solution is, but it most work because I've never received a dead fish in the mail.

Once you add some live plants you will be amazed at how fake the artificial ones will look. I still have a couple fake ones in my tank just to hide the equipment. I would replace them with live if there was something besides aunbias that my mbuna would leave alone.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Bring a cooler with you to keep your bagged fish in during the trip home.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Iggy Newcastle said:


> Bring a cooler with you to keep your bagged fish in during the trip home.


 :thumb:


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