# Just got a used 85



## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

I was thinking of getting something bigger, but I saw this deal while out shopping for a bedframe yesterday and it just seemed like the right tank, so I went for it.

It's 4' x 20" x 20" so total volume is about 85 gallons, but one whole end of the tank is built into a sort of strange filter configuration that looks like it is intended to be a wet dry, so the real useable tank volume is closer to 65 gallons. Should be a lot easier (and cheaper) to maintain than the monster I was daydreaming about doing, but it is still the biggest tank I have ever had. Tank, stand and hood delivered cost me about $40 US.

I was also previously thinking of doing some kind of sandstone tile background and some other sort of unusual decor, but as I was digging through pics of tanks I kept coming back to how awesome a plain old clean painted black background looks. So I have changed my mind about that too, gonna do natural background with a sand & gravel substrate and natural rock, I'll probably even go ahead and scrounge rock, as going out rock hunting is pretty fun.

OK some pics of the tank...

Excuse the mess, I'm still settling in to the new apartment and have almost no furniture. Was sleeping on a mattress on the floor, really Thai style, until just yesterday.


This is about the angle I will be looking at it while laying in my bed.


Some detail shots of the filter:








It looks like the flow through the filter is meant to go in through the plexy grate at the bottom then up through the narrow gap and overflow into the top of the filter to then trickle down through a couple layers of media and then under a gap in the bottom into the other side side where a powerhead returns the water back into the main tank.

I think the way I have it oriented now is 'backwards' from the intended setup, but I want the clear end of the tank facing the room so I will deal with it. Thinking about plumbing in some pipes for under-gravel jets for better water movement and flow across the tank. The current setups input and output are way to close to each other for my liking. The powerhead with it will probably get repurposed somewhere else, or tucked away as an emergency backup. It's 900L/Hr and I think I want to push the flow higher than that.

It also came with a bucket of used bioballs, Do you think those can, or should, be cleaned and reused? They are not too expensive here, but why waste them if they can be salvaged? My thinking is that a quick hose down, maybe a once over with a brush, and then a 'pasteurization' ought to make them safe for reuse.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Nice Score! I'd love to find an 85G tank for $40 here in the states.

Looks like they had some sort of built-in sump system in that tank..strange. Could it be removed or is it built into the tank. If it's just silicoined in you should be able to remove. You will want all the tank space you can get with african cichlids. A 48" tank is about the minimum you should use.

You can certainly reuse the bio balls as long as they are still in decent shape. If you are worried about what's on them soak them in a weak bleach solution overnight and then be sure to rinse them thoroughly before using them in the filter. BTW, what type of filtration system, besides UGJs, were you planning on using?


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## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

I was really planning on using the built in wet dry. It is the most common kind of filter around here and so the stuff that goes in it is pretty easily obtainable. Canisters are almost unheard of. everything is just siliconed in doe it is possible to take it out, but then I'd have to build a sump probably.

I am thinking of removing the plate that will cause water to be drawn from the bottom of the tank, in order to make it more into a regular overflow that skims funk off the surface constantly.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Is that 'plate' that has the slotted section at the bottom that the water currently enters the filter made out of acrylic or glass? It it is acrylic, it should be fairly easy to add some additional holes or slots at the top to help skim the water surface. If it is glass, you will obviously have to purchase a glass hole saw and could then add some holes near the top to skim.


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## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

I put a better pic up, with a diagram. it looks to me that how they constructed this was to start with the 2 plates used to make the usual corner box where the powerhead sits, but they put the gap at the bottom instead of the top. Then they added another plate between the corner box and the front with the gap at the top for the overflow. Then they put in a 4th plate with a gap at the bottom in front of the overflow plate.

It is this last plate I want to remove.


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## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

Just got that plate out, was pretty easy once I stopped in at hardware store for a scraper with a really thin, really flexible blade. Cleaning it up pretty will probably take a good bit longer.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Glad you were able to remove at least one of the sections, was it the section with the slotted holes at the bottom.


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## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

Deeda said:


> Glad you were able to remove at least one of the sections, was it the section with the slotted holes at the bottom.


Yes it was the one that the wter would flow under then up through a msall space and then over into the main part of the filter. I plan to keep the rest of the filter as is. I think it will work out well for what I have in mind


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## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

things are moving along slowly, and with a bit of frustration. While the tank is clean, there are water marks that nothing I have tried has even dented. Curse of the used tank I guess. At this point I am resigned to ignore them.

Decided against using the tile background as I cannot get absolute confirmation they have not been dyed or treated in some other way. After looking at some of them I'm not even 100% sure any more they are not some sort of concrete product. Plus, a lot of the other broken statuary type stuff I was thinking of using for decor I'm a bit more leery about putting in with fish.

Good think I have always liked a plain black background. It IS a really good look anyway, so I went ahead and painted the back black.

Laying in some very basic under gravel piping and jets, pretty much just creating 2 water outlets at the 2 corners away from the filter box end. All that is rough cut and partly assembled. probably going with sand as a substrate. I like sand as it is pretty easy to clean and the funk does not get down deep into it. I may change my mind though as I shop around more.

All the old lighting stuff has been ripped out of the hood and while I'm thinking of going LED still, I may just go with some compact fluorescent bulbs. I looks to be the easiest and cheapest way to go.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

capp said:


> things are moving along slowly, and with a bit of frustration. While the tank is clean, there are water marks that nothing I have tried has even dented. Curse of the used tank I guess. At this point I am resigned to ignore them.
> 
> Decided against using the tile background as I cannot get absolute confirmation they have not been dyed or treated in some other way. After looking at some of them I'm not even 100% sure any more they are not some sort of concrete product. Plus, a lot of the other broken statuary type stuff I was thinking of using for decor I'm a bit more leery about putting in with fish.
> 
> ...


Glad to hear your tank is coming along!

Have you tried vinegar on the water stains. I have removed many stubbern hard water stains with it. Wet the tank down with a vinegar and water solution and let it set overnight. Should come right off.

Is LED more expensive where you're at? In the long run it is cheaper than CFLs because it uses less wattage. The prices have really come donw on LED in the states. You might as well use it if you're going to redo the lids anyway.


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## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

I tried vinegar, I even tried some more caustic acid based cleaners and nothing touches it.

LED lights I'd have to have custom fabricated from a local LED sign making shop. No access to pre made LED aquarium lights here. The quotes I've got so far seem kind of high, so I'm working on sending a Thai friend in to ask for the same thing and see if he gets quoted the same price. 'Falangs' often get quoted outrageous prices for things just because it is assumed we can or will pay whatever.

I'm not doing a planted tank so I don't need a huge amount of light anyway. The power use for CFLs, while still more than LEDs will still be pretty small. Only thinking of using 2 or 3 bulbs in the 20 watt range. 20 watts into a modern CFL puts out a lot of light.


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## spotmonster (Nov 23, 2006)

I wouldn't get all fancy with spray jets and such. i'd just run an extension from the output of the pump to the opposite side of the tank and cover it with gravel. That type of filter works very well. There is a store here that has the same set up in a huge 10 ft acrylic tank.

To make the filter part disappear, I'd mask the filter area and paint the glass on the outside black on the 3 visible sides.

The only other thing I would consider if it were mine .... it looks to me the filter could be made a little smaller. There's nothing wrong with it being the size that it is, but I'm sure you could make the filter box slightly smaller, (closer to the pump width), and still have excellent filtration while gaining more tank space.

I 2nd white vinegar and razor blades to clean the glass.


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## capp (Jun 7, 2013)

Not getting fancy with the jets, just a line to the far end that will get the water coming out at the bottom as far away from where the water flows out at the top, probably branching to 2 outlets for max circulation.

Not all that worried about hiding the filter, have some thoughts about putting a curtain around it with some stick on velcro bits to hold it, then I can peer into it when I want and have it hidden when I want, but I may just leave it exposed. See what happens as we move along.


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