# Part 1 DIY Background for 90 gal



## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

I finally got started on my BG this weekend. I am using the Styrofoam and Cement method. I am not doing the background exactly like the usual for Lake Malawi as my husband and I really like the slate look. Much better with this as slate is so heavy. Besides it is fun to play. The silicone I used is the GE 1 recommended here. It is currently curing. I was going to pick up the Quikcrete at Lowes this weekend but there was about 20 choices! Which one do I want?
If I remember right I need to keep the cement damp while it is curing too? 
I am open to all comments and suggestions. Here is the video link...




Hope it works for you. Thanks again all! and goodnight... :zz: :fish: :fish: :zz:


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## buffro (Aug 17, 2005)

i really like your idea wish I had see it before I stared mine but I think it woulda costed me a fortune to do that in my 300 gallon as I'm doing the sides too.

for the concrete you should use mortor and not concrete as there are no rocks and trust me the rocks make it a ***************. your gonna wanna make your first coat very runny to get coverage in all the little cracks and crevaces


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

Coating the undersides looks like it's going to be tough. Most likely any mortar you try to put underneath will slough off. You may have to coat the tops first and then turn over the whole thing to do the bottoms.
Don't try to add to much detail work to the styro other than getting your basic shape. You can work the detail in as you put successive layers of mortar on.

Good luck. Looking great so far. :thumb:


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

It looks good! I never thought of using the styrofoam stacked up that way, very clever! Can't wait to see it coated


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

looks really good! ill be watching this thread, it may just inspire me to do a diy background


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Thanks for your comments - I will keep posting as I move along.
What is mortar? Where would I buy it?
:fish: :-? :fish:


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

Mortar is a mixture of Portland cement and sand. It is comonally used to lay brick and block and is available in the same place you find bags of concrete.


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## steelcitychaos (Mar 31, 2009)

I like the slate look you are working for, I am getting ready to start my own background project by the end of september. Make sure to update your progress, especially when you start digging out the back for your heater and filters. That's the part I don't think I quite understand fully.


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## daFrimpster (Oct 12, 2006)

this is going to be great. I can't wait to se it with concrete


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Me either  I am awaiting the time to get the mortar...I have two teenagers and a husband who at this time of year works 10 to 12 hour days 5 days a week - so I get to be the taxi to games and practices etc... :dancing: 
I will post as I progress - please bear with me as I can hardly stand the wait myself!!!
:fish: :fish: :fish:


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

any updates on progress?


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

So I was at Lowes today excited to get the cement and start that part. But I only got more confused when I was there...
Question 1: Which Quikrete Mason should I buy - the 60 lb regular stuff or the 80lb stuff that has a longer working time and some limestone added or the 5000 one?
Question 2: Mighty you suggested the Great stuff which I thought was a great idea expecially if there is an oops of some sort...but which one the window and door which dries flexible or the cracks and gaps one that dries rigid?
Question 3: The Lowes guys were trying to help me decide and one of them called their contractor "Dad" who suggested the Dri Lock paint which is a water sealer that goes over cement normally - and he said it would stick to the styro and be "easier". But is it safe and then if it is which one would I get - the latex based one?
Here I thought I could get going on the next step and I think I am more confused about the best route to go. 
I hope you guys are still with me as I am eager to get on to the next part...
Thanks again. Me :fish: :fish: :fish:


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

this guy right here: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=198615 used drylock, and one advantage is it doesnt effect the ph like concrete... basically u mix and spray it on according to his thread. I havn't done one myself, so ill let others tell u which is best, but as long as it doesnt have gravel in it u should be fine, cause the gravel makes it a pain to coat ur background... def following ur thread, ur off to a great start


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Thanks Justin - I checked it out and I guess the dri-Lock will work and be safe for the fish. I would love to see UDub's tank done. Anyone else have any thoughts or comments?
If nothing by the time I get off work tomorrow I think I will walk...no run to the nearest store and get some dry-lock so I can get started! Woo Hoo!
G'nite all from Montana! :zz: :fish: :zz:


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Amazilia said:


> So I was at Lowes today excited to get the cement and start that part. But I only got more confused when I was there...
> Question 1: Which Quikrete Mason should I buy - the 60 lb regular stuff or the 80lb stuff that has a longer working time and some limestone added or the 5000 one?
> Question 2: Mighty you suggested the Great stuff which I thought was a great idea expecially if there is an oops of some sort...but which one the window and door which dries flexible or the cracks and gaps one that dries rigid?
> Question 3: The Lowes guys were trying to help me decide and one of them called their contractor "Dad" who suggested the Dri Lock paint which is a water sealer that goes over cement normally - and he said it would stick to the styro and be "easier". But is it safe and then if it is which one would I get - the latex based one?
> ...


I have only used Quickcrete quick setting cement for my backgrounds, is it the best? I don't know. I think that the limestone cement will not work very greatly for two reasons, 1 because lime stone will dissolve with time and 2 because it may be difficult to lower the PH due to the limestone being very high in PH (could be wrong though and might even work better to buffer your PH). I also bought a small 20lbs bucket which was more than enough for my 72"x18" background, I had plenty left for a small background.

I have used both of the Great Stuff bottles you mentioned and think that the cracks and gaps is better if you will be fixing big parts and the window and door is better for smaller mistakes.

I think that if you are going to try and use the Dri Lock paint to seal the the background you should probably call the manufacturer and ask if any of their Dri Lock "paint" is safe for use inside the aquarium. My guess is they are not going to say that it is or it's not but worth the try.


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## dreday (Oct 12, 2007)

i would have to say it would be ok. i read some material on it and it is used in pools and ponds. it did say to let it dry for a period of time(cant remember maybe 2 weeks) before use. i will have to find the link again.

google drylok and read through the manufactures details. they list all the different types of uses for it. i think i am going to use it on my bg and do a light coat of cement first. well several light coats and then the paint.

but if you worried i would skip it or test it in a small tank and add some plants or something to see if it affects them.


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Thank you Dreday and Mighty...
Here are the specs from the manufacturer I thought would be pertinent...
It is guarateed for 10 years - pretty good - and I figure if it can go into fish ponds and birdbaths must be ok. It does say it is considered carcinogenic - but what isn't these days (and I work as the SW in a cancer clinic-so quite familiar with the big C). It has some chemicals in it but I don't know what they are or what it means so since safe for ponds and birdbaths should be ok.
Since it won't add any weight to the styro which I think is partially why cement is so common, I was thinking I might add a brace like they do to hold the hamburg matten (sp?) filter in and silicone the brace into the tank to hold the background. Then I could also put a little space behind it for equip or carve into styro for equip - still thinking about that one a bit. Although I did decide I would run two Emporer 400's because one came with the tank but I think a second one won't hurt.
Hope this helps others considering the drylok.
Thanks again Mighty and Dreday and Justin for your input. Will plug along. Have to figure out when I can do as it says to put on the coats 3 hours apart - might have to wait til weekend when I have whole day and don't have to come to work. :x :?  Oh well such is life!
Here is the info:

Latex Base DRYLOK Masonry
Waterproofer is a low odor, ready- mixed masonry waterproofing paint.
Specially formulated to waterproof interior, exterior, above or below grade masonry walls. Ideal for use on cinder and concrete block, poured concrete walls, stucco, brick, retaining walls, basement walls, birdbaths and fishponds.
Guaranteed to Stop Water - up to 10 psi according to test. Thatâ€™s greater than a column of water 22 feet high! Latex Base DRYLOK is backed by a 10-year product warranty
If leaking is still present after two coats, it indicates that pores or pinholes
are still open. These areas should be painted again. When painting the inside of concrete fish ponds or birdbaths, allow Latex
Base DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer
to dry at least one week before filling with water.
If desired, a high quality latex paint can be applied over DRYLOK after
24 hours for decorative purposes.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

You are also going to have to wait another week after applying the Drylok to let it cure...Better than cement though I guess. I am sure it will all be worth it in the end!


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## R-DUB (Jun 3, 2007)

Had to chime in hear! Amazilla use the drylok. It works WAAAAAY better than cement. Any Q's feel free to PM me. GOOD LUCK.
P.S. The BG looks very cool! :thumb:


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

Amazilia I used the Drylok on my 75 Gal. about a year ago. I love it and wouldn't use anything else..
The stuff is really tough and won't crack and fall of like cement will...No ph problems.
Your detail will still be there and just much more easy to work with..
If you ever use it, You will never use cement again...

I will say that it won't work in salt water...It just falls apart.

BG Looks great... Good luck with it...
If you have anymore Q's Just ask...


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Thanks Little Joe.
How long did you "cure" it before putting it in the tank?
How did you secure it in the tank?
This is so much fun to figure all this out and everyone has been so helpful!
Will definately keep you all up to date although the progress may be slow at times...
Thanks again all!


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

I let it dry on the deck in the sun 24 hours and then used silicon to secure it to the tank..
I put a small fan in the tank and let it blow on it for 24 hours.

I didn't put but 2 coats on it, so it dryed real quick it the sun...
If I was using it on a wall I would let it dry the week that it called for,Butwith the foam and the 2 coats in the sun I think 24 hours was enough.. 
It will really look great after you get some algae growing on it...


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Hello all,
I did get out and get the drylok this weekend and got my first coat on. Some of those nooks and crannies are pretty tough to get into but I think I got them all. I bought three cement colors - buff, terra cotta and charcoal. I started with the buff color and it looks like a very light peach. I did start another video but will continue over the next week and get some more done and then post a video again. 
Any suggestions on how to cut into three pieces? Thought I would put one coat of paint on and then cut. I think this is going to be tricky with the way I have done this one. 
:fish: :fish: :fish:


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

im still tuning in for your progress. hopefully some others will chime in on what to use to cut it


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## dreday (Oct 12, 2007)

to cut after you used drylok?? not sure since i dont know how hard it is. you would probably need a power saw or something. hacksaw probably wont cut it.

i just got some dry lok today and might test it out. i put the styro in my tank and dont really like the look yet. needs some more work... its just to hot outside. got to wait till later on in the evening. only 90f here....... 8)


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Amazilia said:


> Hello all,
> I did get out and get the drylok this weekend and got my first coat on. Some of those nooks and crannies are pretty tough to get into but I think I got them all. I bought three cement colors - buff, terra cotta and charcoal. I started with the buff color and it looks like a very light peach. I did start another video but will continue over the next week and get some more done and then post a video again.
> Any suggestions on how to cut into three pieces? Thought I would put one coat of paint on and then cut. I think this is going to be tricky with the way I have done this one.
> :fish: :fish: :fish:


Any chance you can remove the frame of the tank instead of trying to cut the background into pieces since it since you already began coating? I think you are gonna be upset trying to cut the background into pieces and leaving some very nasty seams on it.


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

I just wasn't thinkin before I put the first coat on  -was way to excited. Frame is on there pretty solid but I thought about those cracks being obvious too mighty and thought maybe I might just put in tank in pieces and then maybe use the fill in foamy stuff- can't think of name of it right now... I'll let you all know how it goes...
:fish: :fish: :fish:


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

yes, that works as well but you will need to add some more layers of your drylok in there obviously but I don't know how the drylok works so I don't know if layering it will be good or bad.


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

Amazilia Be careful and not get any drylock between where you cut it.
If you do it will not fit back togather good, It will be hard to hide the cut..
I cut mine on a angle so the edges would over lap when put togather.

You might cut it length ways and put it in 5" or 6" strips. That way you wouldn't see any cuts with the way you have it made, That's just a thought...
You may want to save some of your last coat of drylock to touch it up after you get it installed, That way your color will match.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

littlejoenc said:


> Amazilia Be careful and not get any drylock between where you cut it.
> If you do it will not fit back togather good, It will be hard to hide the cut..
> I cut mine on a angle so the edges would over lap when put togather.


This is what I meant when I said that I didn't know how the dry lok works because when you layer cement, it gets thick and cementing where you cut the pieces apart will result in the pieces not fitting in perfectly together, which in return will not let the background fit when trying to fit it in the aquarium. I always recommend to cut the background about .25-.50 of an inch smaller than the tank on all sides, not sure if I gave you that tip and I apologize if I didn't, it may be too late for that unless the background does not fit, then you might want to still try it even if you have to re-dry lok it again.


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

Just scrap it off the edge and put some tape on the cut side and then pull if off when your done.
Might work.. :thumb:


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

Lot's of fun building these things I think...


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Ok so I did some cutting and it is going to be ok. I was going to drylok the sides so thanks for the tip littlejoenc as I will not now. The drylok is quite flexible. I also cut out for my filters and whoa those Emperor 400's are pretty big! So I only have room under the center brace to cut out for my heater so guess it will be in the tank or maybe on one side as I did cut shorter like you also suggested Mighty and maybe a little more with a screen across and then a place for the heater and fill in with great stuff. Will have to play a bit. 
Thanks everyone again! I will post more pics this weekend.
One other question. Do people put airstones in with Lake Malawi haps and peacocks? I was thinking the two Emperors would be enough?


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

Amazilia
Sounds like you have it all under control.. 
Like you said just play a bit with it and do what looks good to you..
Your the only one that has to be happy with it. 
I have seen one built the way you are doing yours and it really looked great.
Can't wait to see it when your done...


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Maybe you can fit the heater where the emperor's intake will be? That is how I hid my heater and it worked well too. As far as the air stone, I would route the tubing for it just in case, route the tubing as soon as you put the background in so the substrate doesn't get in the way, you can run it through the side of the background and the bottom and then put the substrate on top of that. This way in the future if you decide to use the air stone you don't have to tear through your tank, just hook up the excess tubing to the air pump and voila! I had very similar filtration on my 55 and I would still be able to see this film of something on the water surface so I used the air stone to break it.


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

That is a great idea Mighty! Thanks. I did get some painting done this weekend. Got the second coat on in a darker color which I like - kind of a reddish brown. Also put some charcoal shading and painted some of it charcoal. Planning to add one or two more colors.
Was at my LFS today and picked up a used canopy for my 90 for $60. Worked out great as I had a $48 credit for all the baby kribs I take to them. 8) 
Anyway here are a few links to pics... I don't know how to put pics right in post :x 
Any comments, thoughts, or critiques will be welcome...

See next post by me - found a way to put bigger pic on here....still don't know how to put pics right in post rather than links...

Will be more pics as I keep working on...
Thanks again for all your help guys.. YOU ALL ROCK!
:fish: :fish: :fish:


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

Looking good Amazilia


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Here's bigger pics... opcorn:

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14 ... 1254631334

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14 ... 1254631698

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14 ... 1254631735

:fish: :zz: :fish:


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Thanks littlejoenc... 8)


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Hi all, 
Here are some more pics of it - dry test run in my tank. Any comments, suggestions, critique appreciated. 
It does need some tweaking here and there. I am currently awaiting my second Emporer 400 and need to p/u my canopy.
I understand I need to let it cure for a week or two so I have a little time.
Will fix the "black" side as I think it should be like rest of tank BG. 
Thanks!
:fish: :zz: :fish:

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14 ... 1254801302

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14 ... 1254801359

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx14 ... 1254801429


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Very nice! What color substrate are you planning on?


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

I would like to put sand in and have been reading posts regarding the different types. Seems that people have particular preferences. I would like to have mainly white sand speckled with bits of black sand...just toying right now. 
Have looked at tanks with both white and black and it just seems to me the colors pop more with white sand.
Also thought the small river rock might look good in there too but in reading seems these types of fish like sand better.
:fish:  :fish:


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## nipzie (Nov 24, 2008)

Amazilia, to post pics in your post click the Img button, paste the link, then click the Img button again to close the image link within. I think that is what you need to do. As Mightyevil said, routing the line is the easiest for an airstone line. I used some eheim canister tubing siliconed directly into my background and made an outcropping in front of where it came out. Even without any rocks in it you can't see it, just bubbles coming out of a fissure in the rock. I then can poke an airline tube into the bigger eheim tubing past the outcropping where I can grab it, attached my airstone, then pulled the slack back so the airline and stone were behind the outcropping I made. This way I can change airline and/or stone at any point I choose or if necessary.


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## nipzie (Nov 24, 2008)

let me try with your pic.










nope, didn't work, I make all mine in photobucket under the button "create html/img code for website browsing" or something to that effect after I've selected all the pics I wanted to show. That takes me to another page with 4 boxes each with a different title above them. I think it is the 3rd box down that says Img code for forum display or sumthin' like that, copy and paste right into your post. It'll have all the pictures you selected as code that'll look like:

















and so on. 
I obviously make up the middle section as I don't know exactly what it puts in there. It does the same thing as the Img button here, but saves typing as you can do it all at once with a few clicks of the mouse. I don't think it's the same as the website link like you have been posting as it gave me different worded links that differed from the URL format that you see in your previous posts for the links to your pics. I hope that makes some kind of sense.

Anywho, good job. Looks good.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

I used play sand from Lowes, you can also get it at Home Depot. Here are a few pictures of how it looks, I like it very much...this is my redesigned 20 gallon long which used to hold only 10 gallons of water because it was a turtle tank.

Lights off with flash...

















Only moonlight on...

















With light on...









50 pound bag is only about $5.00 USD...very affordable. You must rinse it thoroughly though because although it says washed right on the bag, it is extremely dirty.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Here you are...


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

thanks Mightyevil and nipzie! I did finally figure out how to put pics right in post :thumb: 
Seems so simple once you know how :wink: 
I like the play sand mighty evil..do you find it can clog up your filters? That is the only concern I have read on here. Some others have said the pool filter sand doesn't clog???
Not sure what the difference would be - except probably cost 8) 
Thanks again guys for all your help!
Happy thursday! :fish: :fish: :fish:


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Just make sure that your filter intake is not too close to the sand and it should be fine...so I have heard. I really don't know first hand since I just set that one up with sand and my 110 has a sump so again, wouldn't know first hand. Additionally, you can cover your intakes with filter media to keep most of the sand from getting into the intakes but you might need to be cleaning that regularly to keep it from clogging.


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## Rick_Lindsey (Aug 26, 2002)

I used playsand in a 70gal 5ft tank that was filtered with HOB style filters (Emperor and Aquaclear). I just took a sponge, cut a hole halfway into it, stuck it over the filter intake and zip-tied it in place. I also didn't have the intakes but about halfway down the tank (it was a 24" tall tank), and it worked out fine for me.

-Rick (the armchair aquarist)


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

I use the white pool sand and love the way it looks...

DON'T let any sand get in your intakes It will damage the impellers and possibly the impeller housing in your filters..


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

any updates on this?


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Not yet justin67. The BG is ready to go in the tank but I have been cringing at the thought of all that silicone smell since I'm in Montana and it is a little chilly to be having the windows open right now. Maybe tomorrow if it is going to be 50 degrees. :x :fish: :x :fish: 
Any ideas of how to "subdue" the strong smell of the silicone?


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## littlejoenc (Jan 11, 2005)

opcorn:


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

yikes. it hit 90 here the other day in tallahasse. I dont miss the cold! do it in the garage?


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

The tank is a glass 90 so too heavy for me to move. Hubby had a golfing buddy come and help him bring it in the house after I bought it. We have leveled the stand and placed the tank on and really do not want to move it anywhere. So I think I'll just do a piece at a time. Didn't get to 50 and so last night hubby helped get the process started only to find out I had miscalculated the size needed for my emporer intakes  so did some more carving last night and now will repaint with the drylok and then start to put in tank after drylok dry one piece at a time as we should be able to stand it then. :? So will get it all in tank and then post pics again in a couple of weeks. Sorry guys to make you wait!  
Hope you are enjoying lots of popcorn justin67...  
:fish:  :fish:


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## ddarden90 (Mar 16, 2009)

i would love to see the final setup with your fish


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## BangMx (Jul 27, 2009)

does water leak to the backside of your background where its siliconed to the back


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

I have a question regarding the cracks in between the 3 BG pieces in my tank. I have siliconed all of the pieces into my tank but there are slight gaps between because my carving was not the best so they did not fit tight together like a puzzle. Any suggestions for filling the cracks in - a product or idea?
Thanks guys! I am getting excited as I am getting closer to getting water in there. It was great to finally have some warmer days so I could open a window and silicone without smelling up the whole house! 
Will post pics soon.


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Use silicone, smear it in the crevice and then wipe is off as much as you can with your finger. Even if you don't wipe it off very well, you should not be able to see it too much, especially when algae starts to grow.


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Good idea! Thanks!


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## iceblue (Apr 27, 2004)

You could also try some mortar mix with some of the same color added to match your background. No smell and no white showing through.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

wow, back from the dead, lol


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

Ha Ha - remember I'm in Montana - we don't die here we just "freeze up" for awhile :lol:

I siliconed the cracks last night and it actually isn't too bad since the silicone is clear. I finished dryloking the pieces to fit under my emporers last night also. Hoping to silicone them in place this weekend, and get my substrate this weekend. So then will let tank sit for a week or two and then do my fishless cycle then add fish!!! 
I just have to decide white or black sand...hmmm....


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

Might as well be, lol. I hate the cold. Its around 85 for the highs today and u guys are just getting out of the freeze, yikes. I am curious to see the background finished though  only another month or so. Oh, and I vote for white sand


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

I am leaning toward the white myself but probably won't decide til I am at the store looking at it.


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## justinf67 (Jul 19, 2009)

save some money and get pool filter sand. I bought mine for like 5.50 for 50 pounds at home depot. just a cheap option.


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## Amazilia (Sep 5, 2009)

that sounds like an awesome option - thanks again!


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