# plants with demasoni?



## cichlify (Sep 1, 2009)

Is it possible to keep a planted tank with demasoni in it? if so what type of plants would be well suited for this tank?


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Sure if you don't mind the look of chewed plants. I didn't like it so I keep plants only with my carnivores.

Some people have luck with java fern attached to rocks.


----------



## dkuster (Aug 21, 2009)

What about Anubias Nana attached to driftwood?

That's what I currently have with 18 juvi dems. Will they shred my plants when they get larger?


----------



## Ckac13 (Feb 24, 2009)

Everything *** tried to put in my Dem tank looks like it went through a pencil sharpener within a couple of days. Even the plastic plants, buried pretty good in the sand, still end up floating by the end of the week.


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Fogelhund has had luck with plants and mbuna. The secret is buy 30 plants, not 3.


----------



## Fogelhund (Dec 3, 2002)

DJRansome said:


> Fogelhund has had luck with plants and mbuna. The secret is buy 30 plants, not 3.


Correct, including demasoni.


----------



## Ca-Delta (Jun 22, 2009)

it's related. any truth to the rumour that plants do help with nitrate? My 240 gal w/60 juvie mbuna and zebra obliquens is proving to be a nitrate factory. Even though I live in Northern California and am lucky enough to do water changes with a garden hose, winter's coming! I read that Amazon Frogbit (Limobium Laevigatum) may help. We have the lighting to support plants. But is it worth the effort? We're currently doing 50% water changes every 7 days and I fear that as they continue to grow like weeds (about 40% are now full grown) we'll be having to do even more water changes than we do now. We have a gravel bottom so I'm thinking that a fast grower, floating plant may be the ticket. And yea, we have those little demons too along with yellow labs, rusty's and red face macs (and those zebras!, love those zebras!) Thanks! :-?


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Yes plants can reduce your nitrates to zero, but although that sounds like a good thing, it can be a bad thing. I actually add nitrates to my planted tanks to keep them above zero.

Bad things like cyanobacteria can flourish in a zero nitrate planted tank. And hair algae. Green spot algae is tolerable, but you have to scrape forever to get it off the glass and the fish don't eat these.

People have suggested floating plants to me...I've just never tried them. The nitrate-eating plants are the fast growing ones, however. For me it's vallisneria. The java fern and crypts have little/no impact on my nitrates.

Does not seem like 60 juvies in a 240 should create so much nitrate though. Does your tap water have nitrate or anything else in it already?

An option to consider would be a refugium with the plants...then the fish could not eat them but the plants could do their job.


----------



## Ca-Delta (Jun 22, 2009)

Out of the tap we have Ph 8.2, GH/KH 12, 0 ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. I don't let nitrate get much above 15 before I'm doing a water change. I'm not looking for zero but I am concerned as they're getting larger and eating more, that the 7 days between water changes will turn into 4 or 5. The refugium idea would be one to be considered if we decide to overhaul the filtration. I'll look into the vallisneria. All my tank buddies are healthy and happy so I'm really not inclined to make any changes (including adding plants). I was really hoping that somebody would be able to say "done that" it works or it doesn't. The goal (in my feeble mind at anyrate) would be to be able to do 25-35% water changes every week and keep the nitrate at about 10. I'm also concerned if they eat the plants. Harm? No Harm? Our biggest problem is diatoms, the rock work turns brown within 30 days followed by (I believe) red hair alage. I get green algae on the glass (actually arcylic) and gravel pretty quickly so we've been doing major scrubbing, was hoping that perhaps the plants might help with those issues also. Thank you for any words of wisdom! :fish:


----------



## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

It works for the problem you are trying to solve, but it creates other problems. Well, it will work if you continue 50% changes weekly. That's the norm. Maybe your first step is to ID your algae to ensure the remedy you apply will be the right one. Diatoms usually stop after several months on their own.

For fast growing plants, you will likely have to invest in plant substrate, plant lights and start a fertilizer regimen. Eating the plants won't hurt the fish. But you might be replanting a lot. The algae on the gravel concerns me...I never had that except hair and cyanobacteria.

You really never want your nitrates to get below 10 if you have plants. Lower than that you will be adding it as fertilizer.

As mentioned, the brush and beard algae will disappear, but it will be replaced by green dot (I'd imagine nearly impossible to get off acrylic), hair and even cyanobacteria. Then what, LOL.

I'm trying for a balance but it's difficult. The cyano arrives if you let your nitrate get too low. The plants start leaking organic material (slow death for lack of fertilizer) and the cyanobacteria thrive on this.


----------



## dkuster (Aug 21, 2009)

I have a spare 30 gal. tank that I'm going to plumb in to my existing system, which consists of a 180 gal. main tank with 50 gal. sump.

I plan on putting a compact flourescent spot lamp over the 30, and floating some Anacharis in it. We'll see if does anything as far as nitrate reduction, but if nothing else I'll have a grow-out/isolation tank ready to go if need be.


----------

