# drylock???



## risascooby (Sep 3, 2010)

Ok so let's say that my background has all been carved out........now do i just paint it with regular paints and then use the drylock? I am a little unclear on these last steps. Do you only use one coat of drylock? Then once the drylock is put on, how long do I have to wait before I put water in my tank and fish??? Is there a cure time or is it just once its dry, its dry and I am ready to go? please advise


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## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

OK, so Drylok is a latex based sealer which is just like latex paint and dries white. You will tint your drylok to create your color using Quikrete liquid concrete colors added to your Drylok. I applied 2 dark base coats and then added 2 color coats plus some detailing. Drylok will be done curing before your silicone so no worries there (about 7 days).


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## risascooby (Sep 3, 2010)

ok thanks, now that makes much more sense to me. Now once I have put the dry lock on it takes 7 days to cure, and then I also have to silcone it in the tank so that is 2 day or 48 hours correct, then I can fill it with water and put my fish back in, correct? So I should be able to tare the tank apart and silicone the background in and leave it for 7 days before puting water in and adding my fish again. I just want to make sure i understand this.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

I would want to use a bit more caution and study it some before adding the fish. Drylok is a masonry product and I'm sure it is quite alkaline. Much like concrete in liquid form. Depending on your water this could/might/may have a major effect on the PH. If your water is neutral or only slightly alkaline the PH could have quite a spike. I would favor soaking the background for a while to remove some of this problem. After a day or so of soaking you can test the water in the soak and see how much it has changed the PH. Better to know what it is doing in your own water, perhaps? Maybe PH is not a big problem but if you have your fish in 7.2 water and suddenly drop them into 8.2, it can't be good for them.


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## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

Apply Drylok then silicone into tank and then wait 7 days to fill with water. After filling I waited 4 days and noticed no changes in my water due to Drylok. Drylok had no effect on my PH at all.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

That's where I advise some caution on adding things to the tank. Some water will have no change while other water may change quite a lot. So many things vary from one tank to another that predicting what will happen is just not good advise. My water here in the 'burbs is quite different than my daughter's Austin water. Just guessing is not what people need to hear when they ask for advise. No big cause for worry but just being aware is worth some time.


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## Andras (Jul 17, 2010)

I'm in the process of making my background for an already established tank. While I've read about many people just letting the drylok cure for seven days then adding it to the tank, I'm going to let it soak in a tupperware container for a few more days just to be safe.


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## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

Yes, I agree that you should know what your local water conditions are. I was refering to the Drylok it had zero impact on my water. I didn't know this until after waiting and testing and I never suggested to just assume it's safe. I would never advise to just guess about water conditions, simply sharing my results.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

Didn't mean to be critical of your post- Malawi. I suspect you and I have much the same water. Liquid concrete, maybe? The folks who have much softer water with little buffering may have a much more noticable change. I find I can throw most anything in and not see much change. I'm just satisfied to never want any fish that require soft water. Trouble plenty if I did.


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## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

No worries, just didn't want give the wrong impression. Our water is pretty solid.


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## markw (Feb 20, 2004)

I have been able to find an oil base "drylock" sealer here in Canada, but not a latex base. I would have concerns about using an oil based product on my background, as opposed to the water based. Anybody tried the oil based version?


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## mightyevil (Oct 23, 2008)

Have not tried the oil based and would not try it, it already sounds toxic but I could be wrong. I personally would not risk it.

I also did not have any impact on my water from the Drylok backgrounds I have made. I made two and both maintained the same water chemistry after a couple of days in water. If it was not for the chloramine my tap water would be perfect and Drylok did not affect it.

And of coarse, do not take my word for it... always test your water before throwing fish in it.


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## axl10 (Aug 21, 2010)

here in australia we cant get drylock, so i need some advice. What is the process do you

1. apply paint to the foam with colour tints in it

2. then apply drylock as it is a latex based sealer

Would it be fine to use concrete with colour tints in it and use that and then find a latex based sealer. Or do i use paint with colour tints in it and apply it instead of concrete?? Im a bit confused on what to use. Does concrete peal or flake as some other members have said???

What would you suggest i do???

Cheers Tim


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## peter hardman (Apr 23, 2010)

Hi axl10. :thumb:

I live near Frankston, Melbourne and I use Quickcote, Quickpatch Acylic Dry Render, Made by Victoria Plaster Technologies. The first and last two coats should be fairly runny, with the last two coats I added a concrete colour powder. I ran it and flushed it for 4 weeks, the water tests for the last year have been OK, I haven't come across any unwanted toxic levels of any kind so far.
Here is my YouTube video if you want to see it finished. This video is of my first attempt and I've done a few after this one with different rock work styles. Its all up to your own imagination with design.






Hope this helps, if you have any questions please ask. I would be happy to help.


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## BillD (May 17, 2005)

markw said:


> I have been able to find an oil base "drylock" sealer here in Canada, but not a latex base. I would have concerns about using an oil based product on my background, as opposed to the water based. Anybody tried the oil based version?


Rona or Home Hardware has the Latex version.


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