# Algae Eater Options



## cdarminio (Mar 29, 2015)

I'm looking to get an algae eater (fish/invertebrate) that will remove the hair algae I have growing on my Vallisneria. I have considered plecos, otocinclus, shrimp and snails, but my main concern is that the plants are located next to a rock pile home to a pair of buescheri. I'm certain any shrimp would be eaten and I have the feeling that the plecos and otocinclus will be annihilated by the buescheri whenever they try to eat the algae, so I'm thinking of getting nerite snails. The other tankmates are cyprichromis and N multifasciatus. I need help finding a compatible algae eater for my tank.


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## Als49 (Jul 11, 2014)

Have you tried reducing the light because often algae is caused by too much light?


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## nodima (Oct 3, 2002)

Als49 said:


> Have you tried reducing the light because often algae is caused by too much light?


+1 fixing the root cause will be more effective than trying to find a way to deal with it after the fact.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I did not find nerites to be effective for algae on plants...for a plant you need a lightweight. The weight of snails seem to work better on glass or rocks. Agree with the others, prevent the algae.


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## Razzo (Oct 17, 2007)

In additional to lights, wouldn't silicate and phosphate control help reduce/slow algae growth?


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## cdarminio (Mar 29, 2015)

Thanks for the advice. I have shortened the lighting period from 10 hours to 7, so hopefully that is enough to make a difference. To address Razzo's question, I'll wait a week and see if the algae on the plants seems to die down. If not, i'll look into adding some PhosGuard to my filtration.

Regarding the bristlenose pleco, do you think the buescheri will be too aggressive towards it?

Thanks again for the help!


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Bristlenose too are heavy and don't spend time on the plants, unless you have fry.

Test for phosphate before you use a phosphate remover. I have phosphate=0 and still have algae issues at times.

Also light bulbs approach or exceeding a year old can contribute to algae...consider replacing the bulbs.


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## cdarminio (Mar 29, 2015)

Ok. I'll see if less light makes a difference. I literally just purchased the bulb a week ago, so it can't be bad already.


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## Razzo (Oct 17, 2007)

Fluorescent bulbs loosing spectrum can definitely contribute to the problem. Poor flow, poor O2 levels, and poor maintenance procedures are other variables too.

In addition to a Phosphate test kit, get a Silicate test kit (I use SeaChem's test kits). My silicates out of the tap were VERY high and were the source of my algae problem. If your tap water does end up being a major contributor to the problem, these SeaChem products will help control the symptom (PhosGuard, PhosBond, and PhosNet - they just vary in capacity). RO/DI will eliminate this source.

Maintenance procedures can have an impact too: Keep nitrates low and when you clean algae off, don't do it in your tank, remove the items to be cleaned/rinsed to a utility sink. Vacuum a few hours after you have cleaned the tank and change/clean sponge filters a couple days after.

Having enough plants to outcompete algae for nutrients will help. One method is the EcoSystems Refugium with their miracle mud. I suppose a UV Sterilizer would have a significant impact too.

As mentioned, critters can help but probably won't be effective on the plants but they will be very effective everywhere else (for that, I like the Zebra Nerrite Snails... they do an amazing job).

Once you controls nutrient levels by any or all of the methods above, low levels are easy to maintain. Eventually, you will gain the upper hand and eliminate the problem.


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## Razzo (Oct 17, 2007)

DJRansome said:


> Bristlenose too are heavy and don't spend time on the plants, unless you have fry.
> 
> Test for phosphate before you use a phosphate remover. I have phosphate=0 and still have algae issues at times.
> 
> Also light bulbs approach or exceeding a year old can contribute to algae...consider replacing the bulbs.


Did you test your silicate levels? This is a rising problem nationally in tap water.


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## Razzo (Oct 17, 2007)

I will add, once you get the nutrient side of the equation solved, you will find you can leave your lights on about as long as you like. The bulbs in the lights on the EcoSystems refugium are on 24/7.


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## Leyshpunctatus (Feb 19, 2016)

No doubt this is blasphemy but I accidentally acquired a Stiphodon sp. In my tang tank 5 months ago and she is doing fantastic. Brilliant algae cleaner, super quick so nobody can catch her if they even try (just watch them trying to get caught at a fish shop, they're lightning)


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## Als49 (Jul 11, 2014)

Leyshpunctatus said:


> No doubt this is blasphemy but I accidentally acquired a Stiphodon sp. In my tang tank 5 months ago and she is doing fantastic. Brilliant algae cleaner, super quick so nobody can catch her if they even try (just watch them trying to get caught at a fish shop, they're lightning)


I also had several Stiphodon semoni and found out that they were tank climbers by finding dead bodies on the floor 

They have much more beautiful colors than the usual black algae eaters though :thumb:


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

The tilapia used in aquaculture will eat hair algae. They will eat the damaged and dead Vallisneria leaves, but if fed regularly, will not eat all of the plants until they get bigger. Use small ones (fingerlings). Remove them when they grow or once the algae is gone.


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## Razzo (Oct 17, 2007)

That is a cool little fish. This is why I love these forums... always learning something new.

Here's another video of them: 




How do they do in a hard water Tanganyika tank? What is their taxonomy?n where are they from? Be interesting seeing a small school of them in a frontosa tank. Have to provide them with some rock piles.


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## Leyshpunctatus (Feb 19, 2016)

Razzo said:


> That is a cool little fish. This is why I love these forums... always learning something new.
> 
> Here's another video of them:
> 
> ...


The species I have are Stiphodon Atropurpureus. I think their distribution is through out Asia in fast flowing streams and rivers. I researched them on seriously fish when I found them and their ph range is up to 7.5 but I have them in a ph of 8 and they seem very happy, munching on the algae on rocks all day long. From what I've read they love all algae, even cyano. The females are a little drabber than males (which can be stunning) but they're great fun nonetheless.


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## Leyshpunctatus (Feb 19, 2016)

My male


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## Als49 (Jul 11, 2014)

Mine from 5 years ago. Males are blue stripe and females are black stripe.

They should be kept in tank with lid because they're good climbers. I lost several of them (in addition to few jumping discus) because mine was rimless open top and the water surface was about 1/2" from the top.


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## Leyshpunctatus (Feb 19, 2016)

I'm fairly sure you have two different female species there. Males of all stiphodon are a lot more colourful and have extended fins. Looks like you have female Atropurpureus and Semoni


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Very cute little guy.


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## Als49 (Jul 11, 2014)

Leyshpunctatus said:


> I'm fairly sure you have two different female species there. Males of all stiphodon are a lot more colourful and have extended fins. Looks like you have female Atropurpureus and Semoni


It could be because they were WC. I assumed that they were semoni because they're native to my country. I no longer had them though and haven't seen them available in the market.


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