# 0.25 ppm Ammonia



## Jammos (Nov 25, 2010)

I keep reading 0.25ppm Ammonia in my newly established tank and it doesn't seem to budge. 
I want to get it down to 0 but after 3 weeks it hasn't changed through 4+ water changes.

API test kit
pH8.2
Cichlids mainly
Nitrites = 0ppm
Nitrates = 40ppm
Cycled for 5 weeks now

I am tempted to use Ammo-Lock but don't like the idea of never truly knowing my Ammonia level (false positives) any advice? can I let it go for now?

Thanks
James


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Read the fine print on your dechlor, some of them give a false ammonia reading. I assume when you say it cycled you got both an ammonia spike and a nitrite spike?


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## Jammos (Nov 25, 2010)

thats right DJransome. Had both spikes and saw the ammonia and nitrite drop to 0...a week later I added 4 fish and the ammonia pushed up to 0.25...its stayed there ever since. I use API's stress+ to treat my tap water...my water is from an area close to you actually - bergen county, NJ.

I am thinking it might be nothing to be concerned about...but figured I would ask


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I would be concerned if the dechlor is not producing the effect. If it's not from your dechlor then it should be staying at zero.


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## triscuit (May 6, 2005)

My first thought is to check your tap water, second is to check your test kit. Do a control- see if your tap has any ammonia, then also check some bottled water to see if you can get a zero reading.

Next- with nitrates at 40, you are not doing enough water changes and/or you are feeding too heavily. Feed less and do more water changes to get your nitrates closer to 10 ppm. (I like to keep mine below 20 ppm between water changes).

Lastly- let's make sure you have sufficient filtration: What size tank, what fish, and what filters?

I would never say that measurable ammonia isn't worth worrying about...


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## Jammos (Nov 25, 2010)

OK here goes some science!

Ammonia readings
Tap Water = 1ppm  
Brita filtered water = 0.5ppm
Poland Spring = 0ppm! Control works :thumb:

I understand ammonia can be detected in the form of chloramine which is commonly added to municipal water. That could explain the readings on the tap.

Perhaps I am not waiting long enough for my tap water conditioner to react (I use a bucket)...I typically take less then a minute given there is no instructions to wait. I could be detecting the residual chloramine...maybe?

I have mainly juveniles in a 55g tank. 5 Tiger barbs (cycling fish) + 8 <2 inch Cichlids

Thanks


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## benny71 (Sep 30, 2010)

This may be obvious, but how familiar are you with your test kit?

When I first bought my master test kit, I thought my ammonia in one of my tanks was .25 ppm, but later found out that I wasn't looking at the test tube at the right angle...I thought it was .25 ppm for several weeks and finally I realized it was 0.0 the whole time.


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## Jammos (Nov 25, 2010)

benny71 said:


> This may be obvious, but how familiar are you with your test kit?
> 
> When I first bought my master test kit, I thought my ammonia in one of my tanks was .25 ppm, but later found out that I wasn't looking at the test tube at the right angle...I thought it was .25 ppm for several weeks and finally I realized it was 0.0 the whole time.


fair question...pretty familiar...given the 0 reading and my background as a Biologist I think I am OK on that one. Of course even the API kit isn't foolproof. Especially those nitrate colors...man they are hard to distinguish.

I am newbie at fish keeping though so keep the questions coming!v :thumb:


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## benny71 (Sep 30, 2010)

Jammos said:


> benny71 said:
> 
> 
> > This may be obvious, but how familiar are you with your test kit?
> ...


Yeah, you are probably good to go then. :lol:

Those nitrate readings are a PITA to read, but I do 50% water changes about 3 times every 2 weeks, so I'm pretty sure I'm OK...They usually stay around the 20 ppm range from what the test looks like(maybe a little higher on occasion).


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## triscuit (May 6, 2005)

Jammos said:


> OK here goes some science!


That's what I like to hear! :lol:



> Ammonia readings
> Tap Water = 1ppm
> Brita filtered water = 0.5ppm
> Poland Spring = 0ppm! Control works :thumb:


Well, you've found the source of ammonia. Chloramines are bad for fish too, so_ most_ dechlor products will take care of that too. However, API Stress Coat does not handle chloramines well. (Check out this link: http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/rev-cond.htm). Right now double or triple dose the Stress coat until you get a better product. (Personally I find stress coat and stress zyme to be overpriced junk that fish stores push on folks.) Seachem Prime is good, and I currently use ChlorAm-X which can be dosed for exactly how much chloramine/ammonia you need to nutralize.


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## Jammos (Nov 25, 2010)

I got the Seachem prime and did two 50% water changes on Sunday & Tuesday. Added the prime as per the instructions.

I just read my Ammonia/chloramine and it is still 0.25. Could this be detoxified ammonia and therefore a false positive? hope so

thanks all


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## benny71 (Sep 30, 2010)

Jammos said:


> I got the Seachem prime and did two 50% water changes on Sunday & Tuesday. Added the prime as per the instructions.
> 
> I just read my Ammonia/chloramine and it is still 0.25. Could this be detoxified ammonia and therefore a false positive? hope so
> 
> thanks all


I'm pretty sure Seachem Prime gives off a (subtle )false positive of ammonia for a few days after a WC...To be sure, right before you do another 50% water change in a week, test the water before draining.


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