# Fluval FX5 and a Hydor inline heater - how?



## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Im thinking about picking up a FX5 this week for my new 125G. I REALLY wanted an inline heater this time around. Doin a little research, I'm seeing that the heaters nozzle is 5/8 and the tubing on the FX5 is 1". How can I go about getting these two to work together without a bi loss in flow?

Thanks!


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## dsouthworth (Sep 7, 2011)

The best success you'll have is by splitting it. 
Find a 1" 'y' fitting. One side will stay one inch and go to the output. And other side will get reduced to 5/8". 
Then to finish off, use another Y to make it a single tube again.

This will keep the maximum GPH


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Doesn't that give too much bypass? Also, would I not need a ball valve to control flow since is gather the 5/8 side will be flowing slower than the 1" side?


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## dsouthworth (Sep 7, 2011)

I guess you could get technical with it. This is just what i've set up. Works fine and I dont notice a difference in performance.


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

Get 2x: 5/8" x 1" hose barbs and youre all set. Thats how I hooked up mine, no problems at all.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Sub-Mariner said:


> Get 2x: 5/8" x 1" hose barbs and youre all set. Thats how I hooked up mine, no problems at all.


That seems easy enough! Do you happen to remember where you got those barbs? A quick google search didn't find much. I only see 5/8" x 1/2". I even did a search on usplastics as I heard them mentioned here once or twice!

Thanks!!


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

jnick said:


> Sub-Mariner said:
> 
> 
> > Get 2x: 5/8" x 1" hose barbs and youre all set. Thats how I hooked up mine, no problems at all.
> ...


I sure do. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=551

I got the black ones: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... &catid=551


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Thank you!!! Just ordered 4. Never hurts to have any extras on hand!

So now I need to get tubing from home depot, one 1" ID and the other 5/8" ID, correct?


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

No problem, I ordered 8 just to be on the safe side. 

Yeah all you need now is 1" ID tubing for the FX5 and 5/8" ID tubing for the Hydor. Also get some hose clamps while youre there and depending on what you want to do with the output either pick a few 90Ã‚Â° elbows to make a return or several 90Ã‚Â° elbows and pipe to make a spraybar. If I were you Id make a spraybar.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... ?p=1571629

Heres a video of it running on my previous 90g tank:


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

I've been contemplating a spray bar or just use what they provide. Would positioning their nozzles towards the surface not provide enough surface agitation? I would provide underwater circulation using the two Koralia 4's that I have.


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

*** never seen a thread where people use 1" ID vinyl hose and still use the stock FX5 output. Most use a couple of 90Ã‚Â° elbows to use as a singe 90Ã‚Â° return. Id be hard to fit the stock FX5 output back on since it just uses the rubber piece that the ribbed hose slips into which is in the water. Id be afraid it would leak so I think thats why everyone uses PVC parts to make their own return. Plus the PVC hose isnt flexible enough to go over the side of your tank and use the rim clips that comes with the FX5.

Since you have a heater hooked up inline the spraybar will help spread out the warm water so theres no cold spots since it rolls front to back. And like me you have Koralias to help spread it around even more.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Ahhhh, did not know that about the tubing change :/. How hard is it to make a spray bar? Any instruction/guides around? I would think I would need maybe a 4ft spray bar?

Also, with the Rena XP4 on my current 55G, the spray bar can rotate angles. Is this possible on a DIY one so I can adjust the amount of agitation?

Thanks for all your help, Sub-Mariner!


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

Check the link I posted a few posts above. That a spraybar I made for my 90g. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... ?p=1571629

I have a 125g now with a 5ft spraybar. It's VERY easy to make!!! And yes you can adjust the spraybar, just twist it.



60gallon said:


> *PARTS NEEDED*
> 
> *6x:* 3/4" 90Ã‚Â° elbows
> *1x:* 3/4" end cap
> ...


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Awesome! Thanks man! You know what my next question is... Do you know where I can get black/dark Gray PVC?

Also, for a 4ft spray bar, how many holes should I have at what distance apart? How do you even make the holes so straight?!


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

You can get the gray like I made above from home depot. It stuck out too much for me so I bought black. You can get it from Savko.com

Black PVC pipe: http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid= ... 18&pid=146
Black PVC fittings: http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid=3&ptid=36

I spaced the holes on my 36" spraybar 1" apart; 1/8" holes. It worked well on my old 90g and on my 55g now. On my 5' spraybar I spaced them 2 1/4" apart; 1/8" holes and it works well on my 125g. Maybe try to space them 1" apart and if its too much flow or if you want to tame it down enlarge the holes a little bit. Remember enlarge slowly, you can easily remove material but you cant add it back if you go too large.

Here a little how to I put up on another fish forum on getting the holes straight.

*Spraybar*


*Intake*


Iv read alot of people saying how hard it is to get the holes straight on a spraybar. Heres how I got them to line up perfectly....

-Get a piece of furring strip to use as a straight edge.

-Mark your hole spacing on the furring strip. The amount / diameter of the holes depends on your tank. On my 90g - 4ft tank I made the holes 1/8" in diameter and spaced them 1" apart. My sand stayed spotless and I never had to vacuum my sand between water changes.

-Put blue painters tape on the PVC pipe and use a marker to draw a straight line w/ the furring strip on the PVC pipe. *If youre not steady with your hands, you can use a large clamp to clamp the PVC pipe to the strip so it doesnt move when you draw the line and mark the holes.

-Find & mark the center of the PVC pipe and mark your holes from the center out with the furring strip.

-Drill your holes. Start out with a small bit to make pilot holes then come back with a larger bit for your final holes. For the pilot holes I used a 1/16" bit then steeped up to a 1/8" for my final holes.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Wow! I can't thank you enough for the help/walkthrough!

The only part I'm slightly confused with is the blue painter tape. I'm putting this straight across the PVC, as this is where I will mark the holes and drill through, correct? I'd also assume something like 1" so it doesn't wrinkle/bubble as much?

Considering I would most likely be doing a 4' on my 125 so I have room in the future for other plumbings, would the same measurements work for the most part? 1" spacing at 1/8" hole?

Thanks again for all your help. This is my first tank which is encompassing a lot of DIY. I'm not handy in the slightest and so far I built 2x4 based reinforcements for the stand, painted the glass, fixed the cabinet doors/hinges and now on to custom plumbing with the inline heater and DIY spray bar, hehe! It's definitely turning into a project, one that will be WELL worth it when it's finished!


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

jnick said:


> Wow! I can't thank you enough for the help/walkthrough!
> -No problem.
> 
> The only part I'm slightly confused with is the blue painter tape. I'm putting this straight across the PVC, as this is where I will mark the holes and drill through, correct? I'd also assume something like 1" so it doesn't wrinkle/bubble as much?
> ...


If you need any help along the way dont hesitate to ask. Good luck! :thumb:


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Does this sound about right from Savko?

10' x http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid= ... 18&pid=146

6 x BLK 90 EII (http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid=3&ptid=36)

1 x BLK Cap (http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid=3&ptid=36)

That sound right?


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

jnick said:


> Does this sound about right from Savko?
> 
> 10' x http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid= ... 18&pid=146
> 
> ...


If youre only making a spraybar you dont need 10' of pipe but its good to have extra so yeah that sounds right. If I were you Id buy extra 90Ã‚Â° elbows to be on the safe side in case you need to redo a side but thats up to you. I had a side that was a _few _degrees off after I cemented them together and I redid it, that was my perfectionist side kicking in.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Good point, I'll grab two extra elbows. Got the FX5 today! Wow! That's all I can say . The intake is HUGE. It's actually a bit too long! Is it possible to cut the intake tube down a bit or is that not recommended?


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

Here's another source for 'hard or impossible to find locally' PVC fittings. http://flexpvc.com/


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## MikeyMike22 (Dec 29, 2011)

jnick said:


> Good point, I'll grab two extra elbows. Got the FX5 today! Wow! That's all I can say . The intake is HUGE. It's actually a bit too long! Is it possible to cut the intake tube down a bit or is that not recommended?


I cut my intake down with a hack saw...kind of messy, if you've got a pipe cutter or something that might make a cleaner cut...but yes, you can cut it as needed. I have a 125 and the intake was at the sand, so I cut about 4 inches off of it.


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

jnick said:


> Good point, I'll grab two extra elbows. Got the FX5 today! Wow! That's all I can say . The intake is HUGE. It's actually a bit too long! Is it possible to cut the intake tube down a bit or is that not recommended?


You could cut it or since you have extra PVC pipe just make a intake too. Youll need 2 extra elbows. :wink: Just sand the tip of the PVC down and you can still use the stock FX5 intake strainer.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Didn't realize the intake strainer came off! Cool, I'll do that then. 12 elbows it is! BTW, the intake strainer is HUGE. Pictures do not do it ANY justice!

Hopefully I will begin my build log with some pics I already have . If only the paint would cover I could actually move forward


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

jnick said:


> Didn't realize the intake strainer came off! Cool, I'll do that then. 12 elbows it is! BTW, the intake strainer is HUGE. Pictures do not do it ANY justice!


Yeah it is huge! When you make the intake out of the PVC just sand the tip down so it will fit in the hole on the intake strainer. If you have a dremel just sand it SLOWLY and keep test fitting it until it fits. Not to harp on this but its easy to remove material than to add it back.












jnick said:


> Hopefully I will begin my build log with some pics I already have . If only the paint would cover I could actually move forward


Thats why I had the back of my aquarium tinted with 5% tint, I didnt want to mess around with paint.  
Cant wait to see your pictures once you have everything set up. :thumb:


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Sub-Mariner said:


> No problem, I ordered 8 just to be on the safe side.
> 
> Yeah all you need now is 1" ID tubing for the FX5 and 5/8" ID tubing for the Hydor. Also get some hose clamps while youre there and depending on what you want to do with the output either pick a few 90Ã‚Â° elbows to make a return or several 90Ã‚Â° elbows and pipe to make a spraybar. If I were you Id make a spraybar.
> 
> ...


Does it matter what type of vinyl tubing I get? The stuff at Home Depot (WATTS I believe) Seemed extremely thick and hard to maneuver. Do you have any recommendations on tubing?

Also, I only need a short run of tubing, maybe 2" on each side for the Hydor, correct? No need to extend the run of the reducer to impact even more flow, is there?


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

Replied to your other thread. 

Im using the PVC from Home Depot that you cut by the foot, it works fine. And yes, 2" is about right, maybe less. I cut mine enough so it fits over the barb on the reducer and the Hydro with about 1/4" space in between the barbs, the less hose the better like you said. :thumb:


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Gonna be making the spray bar tonight! So it should be fine to make a 4ft spray bar with holes 1" apart drilled at 1/8"? Or should I do holes at 1.5" apart? I do want a decent current and not a weak trickle! This is for peacocks and haps :thumb:

Thanks!


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

Id go with the 1" spaced but either will work. I have a 36" spraybar on my 55g and they holes are spaced 1" apart w/ 1/8" holes and it works well.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Ok. I was looking at what you had written as well as what a few others explained. From what I saw, they were doing 3ft @ 1" apart and 5ft @ 2" apart. This is why I was thinking 1.5" apart, hehe.

Just for my knowledge, if I have a 4ft bar @ 1" apart, holes being 1/8", the flow would be LESS than a 4ft @ 1.5" apart, holes being 1/8" - correct? To more holes I have on the bar, the more flow/pressure there would be in the return, right?


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## Sub-Mariner (Dec 7, 2011)

The more holes you have will decrease the pressure.


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Update! Spray bar is created. Only ran into me snag...

The pipe between the 2 90 deg elbows were not pushed in all the way when glued. Because of this, in my opinion, the spray bar hangs a bit low. It hangs about 4" below the brim of the tank, or 2.75" below the plastic trim. That is a bit low, no?

Should I create a riser out of styrofoam to rest he piping on? Or do I just order another set of elbows and re-do it?


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Thinking about it after sleeping on it, I could simply cut the glued 3/4 PVC going into the last 90 deg elbow. This will allow me to glue on another elbow and also at that point, the length should be perfect!


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## jnick (Aug 17, 2011)

Return is done!

Now working on the intake.. I have two 90's perfectly touching with a 3/4 tube coming down the back of the tank for the tubing to affix to. No the other end of the 90, which will be in the tank will have a 3/4" PVC with the strainer attached. Does that part of the intake (the main tube with strainer) need to be glued to the elbow? Or just a tight, dry fit will be ok? I would think a dry fit should be fine since the water is being sucked up and not pushed out with pressure, correct?


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