# help with plumbing issue



## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

I just got the out of the box overflow kits for my All glass 125 RR tank. The bulkheads they give are not slip or thread, they look as it you would put them into a hose and clamp them. I have setup the bigger ones (drain) with 1 1/4 inch "tubular drain connectors" into 1 inch pvc. I have 1/2 pvc for the small ones but I can't find any of those "tubular drain connectors" in that smaller size. Does anyone have any ideas on how to connect these to pvc. I saw some of the flexible stuff but I wanted to go hard pvc because of unions and ball valves. I tried a bit of flex tube to make my own (washer tube and hose clamps( but it came from a coil and it was bent.

Here are some pics to help show what I have going on.

http://picasaweb.google.com/fatmtbiker/ ... iQBasd97g#


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

If I understand, you're looking for 1/2"PVC insert fittings?

Probably going to have to go online. Try Savko.

On second thought, after reading your post again, I see your question. You want to connect 1/2" 
insert to pvc. I'd suggest using an insert fitting anyway, and connect the two 'barbed' ends with a 
flexible connector like you did in the one pic. Not ideal, but it'll work. Personally, I'd replace the 
bulkheads. It's a much better solution. I don't like insert fittings. They narrow the drain 
considerably.


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## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

much better. I went out of got the new slip bulk heads, good part is I can now run 1 inch and 3/4 inch instead of 1 and 1/2.

I am guessing that I don't need to glue the part in the overflow, correct?

I am going to glue everything below. I have a few ball unions in the return but nothing in the drain. I had those clamps before to take it apart. Is there anything else I can do so I can release the pipe from the bottom of the bulkheads in case I need to take the tank apart? I could do a union but they are bulky and wont fit past the hole in the tank, would need to cut them off and get new bulkheads each time.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> I am guessing that I don't need to glue the part in the overflow, correct?


That's correct.



> I am going to glue everything below. I have a few ball unions in the return but nothing in the drain. I had those clamps before to take it apart. Is there anything else I can do so I can release the pipe from the bottom of the bulkheads in case I need to take the tank apart? I could do a union but they are bulky and wont fit past the hole in the tank, would need to cut them off and get new bulkheads each time.


Unions are about the only way, but I avoid them for the same reason as you. I've also found that not all 
unions are created equal. Some reduce the drain size more than others even though they're the same 
size unions. They also can be pricey. Since I wasn't planning to make a habit of taking it apart, I just 
figured I'd cut and replace, if need be. You can always cut and then use a coupling as well to 
reconnect. You can only do that so many times though.


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## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

Yeah, I guess for the price of a union I can buy new bulk heads if needed down the road.

Do you guys run a test without the cement or is that just asking for trouble?

I also hate that the unions restrict the flow, I see that the ball valves do that as well but I need something in case my pump is too much.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> Do you guys run a test without the cement or is that just asking for trouble?


Asking for a flood  I've done it in an unfinished basement where it didn't matter, but I wouldn't recommend it otherwise.



> I also hate that the unions restrict the flow, I see that the ball valves do that as well but I need something in case my pump is too much.


Yeah, some of it's unavoidable. I usually just get a pump that's got power to burn for that reason.


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## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

I have a mag24, its got plenty and thats what the ball valves are for, I am worried that it will push water up faster than the overflows take it down


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

A mag24 might, you're right, but redoing those bulkheads and drains will help. 1 inch drains will handle 
600gph, while the mag24 will push about 1700gph at about 6' head. You're using two drains, I believe, 
so considering the loss in gph with valves, bends, etc, you'll still probably have to throttle that back a bit. 
I'd rather be throttling back a bit, then wishing I had more power though.


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## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

all done, purple hands, going to give it two hours and we shall see, I messed up one connection and only got it half way in, not sure if that is going to work but I am going to test before I redo it


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## boredatwork (Sep 14, 2007)

fatmtbiker said:


> all done, purple hands, going to give it two hours and we shall see, I messed up one connection and only got it half way in, not sure if that is going to work but I am going to test before I redo it


I think if you read the PVC glue bottle it says to get it in 1/3. Since 1/2 is bigger than 1/3 I think you'll be ok. Haha.

Also, I learned this too late, and it looks like its too late for you, but to decrease flow restriction, or in other words maximize flow efficiency, use a pipe size that is larger than your native connection size. So if you are using 1" connections, then use 1.25" or 1.5" pipe for everything up until the connections. It will drastically improve your flow efficiency.


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## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

well had an issue with one of my unions leaking, got another and a few connectors and it is good. Also added anther next to my pump so I could glue the rest of it. All works now except the one by the pump but that is in the tank so I don't care much that it leaks. Its hard to get that just right so the pump sits flat on the bottom of the tank. I have a rubber mat that it sits on but it is still loud. What have you guys done to stop the noise, its like a rattle. I can't tell if something in the sump or the pipes moving with the movement of the pump. I am thinking of going with flex tube off of the pump so that does not transfer.


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## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

Also, filled it all up, ran the mag and it sucked the level down in no time. I am now glad I have two ball vales, one for each overflow. I was able to turn each one till it was a perfect balance.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> What have you guys done to stop the noise, its like a rattle.


I had that happen one time with a mag when I didn't run it at full. Does it start when you throttled it back?


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## fatmtbiker (Oct 29, 2006)

When it first starts it is very loud, once it gets all the air out it gets softer. It might just be how loud they are and I am not used to it. I have had HOB filters before. The noise does not change when I throttle it back.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

If your pipes are vertical, the water and air intermix and the turbulence causes higher noise levels. Even though it looks like you are sloppy, angling the pipes tends to encourage water to flow to one side of the pipe, reducing the turbulence and noise.


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

Unless you already have your flow rates where you want them, I would suggest gate valves in place of ball. More expensive, not that bad though. You get considerably better control with a gate valve. :wink:


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