# line-loc tubing



## Jeep318 (Apr 15, 2007)

I just got a 135 Oceanic thats drilled. I bought it used, and it has a return with 2 outlets, one is a 90 degree elbow on top and the other is a T in the middle. I would like to add dual line-loc outlets to both. The question is, are there any alternatives to line-loc? Or is there a national chain or something that carries line-loc in stock? Thanks in advance for the help.

Tim


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I sent a query off through their site for retail sources, but haven't heard back. Here's their site with contact info.

I haven't found an alternative to lineloc. And all I've found were online sources. Here's the one I use. It's a good source for plumbing fittings.


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## nick a (Apr 9, 2004)

A couple of other avenues of investigation:

This one has pricing info listed but an odd assortment of colors :lol: so be sure to specify color!
http://www.modularhose.net/

This one is similar to the Loc-line but a different brand:

http://www.cedarberg.com/downloads/snap ... nap-loc%22


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## MalawiLover (Sep 12, 2006)

Drs Foster and Smith carries Flexible Ball Socket Joint Tubing and Accessories http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+4090&pcatid=4090

I use this brand in both my Perfecto tank ans AGA tank. They have both 1/2" and 3/4" sizes.


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## mormodamballa (Feb 21, 2007)

You can also check local stores that sell hydralic parts for machinery, often times factory's and small machine shops use loc-line for return lines for coolant to cool blades and drills etc....


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I did get this from LocLine

_Thank you for your interest in Loc-Line. Loc-Line is only sold through industrial distributors and some aquarium shops. Unfortunately the person who would know if there are any aquarium shops in your area is at a trade show until Monday. Also since you appear to be a fish guy you would be interested in black and the industrial distributors don't carry black. I know you don't want on-line but www.modularhose.com is the best source for black. He breaks pack and will sell small quantities whereas industrial guys won't. I will pass your inquiry on to my sales manager to see if there is an aquarium store in Cleveland that carries Loc-Line._

So, I guess the best bet would be to contact them and have them check for any retail stores in your area. Still waiting to hear back because I'd kind of like to know if there are any that carry it in mine.


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## mormodamballa (Feb 21, 2007)

Here is another link to purchase from http://www.aquacave.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=198


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## Jeep318 (Apr 15, 2007)

Thanks to everyone for looking into that for me. I waited a day or to for a response and didnt see one so this is the first time I came back to this particular forum on this site to check. I actually decided to take a different route and made a PVC spray bar. It was extremely easy and much more cost effective. Now I need a bigger pump and am having trouble deciding. I have the old Quiet One, and would like to put that newer 4000HH in there but want to make sure that it will keep up. So, if anyone knows anything about either of those I would love your input. Thanks,

Tim


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## Jeep318 (Apr 15, 2007)

Thanks to everyone for looking into that for me. I waited a day or to for a response and didnt see one so this is the first time I came back to this particular forum on this site to check. I actually decided to take a different route and made a PVC spray bar. It was extremely easy and much more cost effective. Now I need a bigger pump and am having trouble deciding. I have the old Quiet One, and would like to put that newer 4000HH in there but want to make sure that it will keep up. So, if anyone knows anything about either of those I would love your input. Thanks,

Tim


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

I have never used the 4000HH pumps but I have and still do use an older external Quiet One pump.

Mine is made by Grundfos model number UP 15-42 .74 amps and 85 watts class F. It had a red body and a beige wet end. I believe it flows roughly 780gph at 4' of head.

So if that is the same model that you have it will turnover a 135g tank 5.78x hourly. Which isn't too bad. You can always add powerheads and/or a canister/hob to get more hourly turnover.

It all depends on what model quiet one pump it is.


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## Jeep318 (Apr 15, 2007)

So I believe that we have the exact same pump. I cant see the model number because of the way I have it sitting in the stand. I have 2 issues. First of all is there any way that pump is not pumping to its maximum efficiency? I ask this because I do now feel as if the water is coming out of my spray bar as strong as it should. I also dont think its keeping up because I only have one overflow in that 135 and the level of water in the sump is more like 7-8 inches instead of the 4-5 that it should be. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks for the input, I'm glad I finally found someone else with the same pump that I have.

Tim


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

How big are the holes in the spray bar and how many are there? You might have too much back pressure on the pump because either the holes are too small or you don't have enough of them.

If the water level in the tank stays the same and the sump is a constant 7-8" versus the 4-5" then you might have put too much water in the system. Plus the overflow drain pipe can also only drain so many gph and if your pump is too powerful it will spill over the edge of the tank before it can drain back down into the sump.

If the water levels are constant and not fluctuating then I say you are fine. But you can always try drilling more holes in the spray bar or making the holes larger diameter.


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## Jeep318 (Apr 15, 2007)

Well how bout I tell you the whole story. When I bought it the guy had the return set up as a 3/4 inch PVC pipe with a T and a Elbow as the returns. So there were 2, 3/4 inch returns and the water pressure wasnt what I felt high enough. So I reduced the holes to 1/2 inch to create some back pressure. It was better, but still not creating the current I wanted. I did a couple of other things that don't really matter. Finally, I made a spray bar. It is about 4 ft long with holes drilled every 1 1/2 inches. The hole diameters are about 1/4 inch, or 3/16's. I determined the hole size by taking a drill bit and matching the hole size to what the spray bar on my XP3's were. I don't think I have too much water in the system. It is barely up to the rim and if I add more water it just raises the level in the sump. I hope you can follow that. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Tim


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

If you aren't satisfied with the waterline in the display you can make the drain pipe taller. Because the water level will remain constant in the display. If you add more water to the sump and all it does is raise the water line in the sump then the tank is full to the most it will hold.

How I have my pump connected to my wet/dry is I have reducers in the inlet and outletit 3/4". And then I have 3/4" ID clear tubing after the ball valve. The clear tubing runs to my spray bar. This tank is a 75g that isn't drilled so I use a Marineland SOS HOB overflow and the spray-bar that goes over the top of the tank. Two rows of holes drilled into the spray one row pointing toward the surface and one pointing downward at an angle. 7 holes in total 4 toward the top 3 angled down. But my spray-bar is also only about 16" so it fits between the 18" width of my 75g.

Pictures say 1000 words so here are some pictures of my setup.

Pump connection. The elbow pointing down allows more water to evaporate so it doesn't suck air. I have my sump running a higher water level than usual.









Another picture of the pump.









Spray-bar.









Spray-bar held in place by the tightly fit fittings.









Spray-bar under water.









Spray-bar closeup.









Marineland Tidepool SOS HOB overflow.









So that's about it. :fish:


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## Jeep318 (Apr 15, 2007)

Well our setups are very similar. actually almost identical. And the water level in the sump is about the same as mine. The biggest difference is that the ball valve is before my pump, and yours is after, but they are both after the sump. I am going to do a water change this weekend and play with the water level in the sump... We'll see how that goes. Thanks for your help. If its still higher than I want i will show you some pics of my setup.

Tim


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

If you are using the ball valve on the inlet to slow the flow then that's the problem. The ball valve that slows the flow needs to be on the output of the pump not on the inlet. You don't want to restrict the flow into the pump only out of it. The back pressure from the ball valve on the outlet will slow down the the impeller on the pump but the other way around it will not.

Putting a ball valve on the inlet makes it easier to remove the pump from the wet/dry. Close it so that the water doesn't need to be drained from the sump when you take the pump off. That is all it should be used for.


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## Jeep318 (Apr 15, 2007)

I personally don't use it for anything, there is a back flow prevention valve after the pump which tankes care of that automatically. The ball valve stays wide open all the time. I really don't think the ball valve is creating any back pressure. But, if you think it is I would be willing to replumb this weekend when I do my water change. Since I have bought it I have tried to figure out what use the ball valve has positioned where it is positioned.


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