# diy canister filter. Awesome!!!



## Pdxmonkeyboy (Oct 17, 2016)

hey folks, I recently completed a 5 gallon canister filter. I basically followed the diy kings video.. 




I ended up putting about 3.5 gallons of lava rock and then filter [email protected] sandwiched between aquarium filter foam. I have a 500gph pump pulling water through the filter. I can not belive how great this thing works!!! I have it on a 50 gal bow front that is heavily stocked and my smaller canister couldn't keep up. this thing went beast mode!! absolutelu no amonia and the water has never been clearer.

seeing how well it worked I honestly feel I wasted $300 on the fx6 I have on my big tank.


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## Howzit (Jul 28, 2016)

That's awesome!


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## Severusia (Nov 13, 2016)

Omg That's so cool!


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## Pdxmonkeyboy (Oct 17, 2016)

Yes, it does work pretty well indeed. One tip however, is that when you screw the lid on, use a LOT of vaseline to make sure it seals properly. Other than that.. up and running with 4 gallons of lava rock media and almost a whole bag of poly fill for like $30. Not to shabby really.


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

And if you use a smaller bucket, you can still make a smaller canister. NICE!!


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> hey folks, I recently completed a 5 gallon canister filter. I basically followed the diy kings video..


Thanks for sharing the project and the link ... they provided the needed inspiration to get me motivated enough to do something on it ... :thumb:



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> I ended up putting about 3.5 gallons of lava rock and then filter [email protected] sandwiched between aquarium filter foam.


I'm going with lava rock as well ... picked up 14 lbs @ The Depot the other night. Going to use 10 and 30 ppi 1" Porfet above the rock ... might see if I can skip the filter floss.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> I have a 500gph pump pulling water through the filter.


Did you plumb the intake on the top/outlet on the bottom, with the pump external and level with the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket ... like in diy king's video ?

That may be what I end up doing ... but I'd really like to have the pump on the top of the bucket (less head, more flow) ... but not sure I can swing it due to clearances ... 



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> I can not belive how great this thing works!!!


Good to know ... :thumb:



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> I have it on a 50 gal bow front that is heavily stocked and my smaller canister couldn't keep up. this thing went beast mode!! absolutelu no amonia and the water has never been clearer.


Mine will go on a 55 gallon ... it currently has a Marineland Magnum 330 and a Magnum 200 on it. It stays pretty clean ... but the filters have to be cleaned a little more often than I care for.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> seeing how well it worked I honestly feel I wasted $300 on the fx6 I have on my big tank.


That's a great testimonial ... :wink:


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## Pdxmonkeyboy (Oct 17, 2016)

hey there. yeah my pump is on the bottom, pulling water into the filter. a couple key things to be aware of. 
1. use barbed adapters and a pvc shutoff valve to make inline shutoffs for the inlet and outlet. 
2. use a TON of vaseline when you screw the lid on. this is the hardest part of the build, getting that lid to seal. after 3 attempts I almost purchased a permanent lid and was going to silicone it on. then every 3 monthe or whenever I wanted to clean the filter I would just use another one. I eventually got it to seal. 
3. on mine..because of the difficulty sealing, if I shut the pump off, the suction of the inlet will keep pulling water into the filter and it will leal around the seal. 
3. knowing that, having the whole kit sit inside a Rubbermaid tote may be good plan.

for the money though... great filter


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> hey there.


Hey ... 



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> yeah my pump is on the bottom, pulling water into the filter.


I think I've about resolved the logistics involved in making mine flow in at the bottom and out at the top ... just one last issue to overcome: locating and securing the pump.

Waiting on the pump to arrive to see if I can resolve it. Just got an email a little bit ago with the tracking info so hopefully it will be here in the next few days.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> a couple key things to be aware of.
> 1. use barbed adapters and a pvc shutoff valve to make inline shutoffs for the inlet and outlet.


Yup ... on the spec sheet ... :thumb:



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> 2. use a TON of vaseline when you screw the lid on.


Yeah ... I can see where plastic (removable lid) against plastic (top) might tend to hang up a bit ... we have a water filter just before our softener here that's kinda like that ... although the problem is usually with removing it, rather than putting it back together.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> this is the hardest part of the build, getting that lid to seal.


Might be worth it to try to build a home brew spanner wrench ... so some leverage can be exerted on it.

Of course, applying leverage to the lid doesn't do much good ... if you don't have a way of holding the bucket itself (think big honkin' strap wrench ... )

Might try using a small plastic mallet or deadblow hammer to tap it open or closed and see if that gets you a better seal.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> after 3 attempts I almost purchased a permanent lid and was going to silicone it on. then every 3 monthe or whenever I wanted to clean the filter I would just use another one. I eventually got it to seal.


Interesting ... that it was that hard to get to seal.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> 3. on mine..because of the difficulty sealing, if I shut the pump off, the suction of the inlet will keep pulling water into the filter and it will leal around the seal.


Is that always true (even after you have it sealed ?)



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> 3. knowing that, having the whole kit sit inside a Rubbermaid tote may be good plan.


Yeah ... was already planning to incorporate a drip tray under the unions to catch whatever leaks out when disconnecting the plumbing for maintenance.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> for the money though... great filter


That's what I'm hoping for ... :wink:


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## joeyo (Jul 2, 2012)

I built the same canister filter, I was changing out the media last night, and if it wasn't for the 40 gallon rubbmaide tote, I would have had a UUGE mess on my hands. The lid is the weak link. I lubed it up with silicone grease, but that lid is the deal breaker I'm going to go with the 4" pvc tube version. Better seal options and same build concept. It's just going to be taller. DIY King has video of this too.


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

joeyo said:


> I built the same canister filter, I was changing out the media last night, *and if it wasn't for the 40 gallon rubbmaide tote, I would have had a UUGE mess on my hands*.


Ok ... I'll bite:

*Why ?*

Are you able to isolate the bucket from the intake and outlet plumbing via valves ?

And if so, are the valves placed as close to the bucket as possible ? (to minimize the amount of spillage)

Do you have any way to drain, or at least partially drain, the bucket before breaking the inlet/outlet connections to the rest of the plumbing, to minimize the mess ?

Do you have any way to break the siphon on the intake and return lines to the filter at the tank ?



joeyo said:


> The lid is the weak link.


That's what I'm gathering ...

There is another similar product that is available ... although I'm not sure it would be any better, as I haven't personally looked at or tested it. It does however include it's own built-in lever/handle for screwing/unscrewing the lid:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=24495&catid=626



joeyo said:


> I lubed it up with silicone grease, but that lid is the deal breaker.


I've done a little reading on these type filters. One thing that I did run across, was the amount of head pressure and the total force being exerted on the lid.

At 3' of head the pressure is about 1.3 pounds per square inch, at 4' it is about 1.73 psi ... which doesn't sound like much ... until you consider the total interior surface area of the lid.

Figuring the lid diameter conservatively at 12", that gives us a little over 113 sq. in. ... so, considering hydraulics, that means that the total amount of force being placed on the interior of the lid @ 3' is around 195 lbs. Probably roughly equal to an average adult male standing on the lid if it was upside down ... 



joeyo said:


> I'm going to go with the 4" pvc tube version. *Better seal options* and same build concept. It's just going to be taller. DIY King has video of this too.


I've watched the video ... it seems quite a bit less polished than the videos for the 5 gallon bucket filter. And was apparently before he discovered Uniseals ...

Not to be too critical here - because this individual (diy king) deserves a lot of credit for doing his videos - but considering the fact that this individual (diy king) recommended Gamma Seal lids - which evidently ain't the greatest - what makes you think he actually knows what he's talking about when it comes to the pvc pipe lid sealing well ?


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## Pdxmonkeyboy (Oct 17, 2016)

I would think the difference is that the 4" pvc lid would actually be a proper lid that would seal even under lots of pressure. the problem with the gamma lid is that it's such a large diameter and somewhat flimsy it doesn't form a good seal. and yes, if I turn the pump off it always leaks.

But I just had an Ahaaa moment! I have some 4" uniseal from a different project, I could use a permanent lid (like a paint bucket lid.. they are like $3) silicone it on and then just use the 4" uniseal and a cap in that lid for the exit. for cleaning I can just pull the 4" pipe out and replace the filter floss.

one question... if your pump is on top.. how are you going to ensure it gets primed..stays submerged enough to draw water in? once it's running it would be fine, but getting it started would be a challange.


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> I would think the difference is that the 4" pvc lid would actually be a proper lid that would seal even under lots of pressure. the problem with the gamma lid is that it's such a large diameter and somewhat flimsy it doesn't form a good seal.


Ok.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> ... and yes, if I turn the pump off it always leaks.


Leaks immediately ... or eventually ?

Can you characterize the leak, in terms of quantity ? (a seep, a trickle, a gusher, or OMG ... start building the ark ?)

The leak is at the point of gasket, correct ?



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> But I just had an Ahaaa moment! I have some 4" uniseal from a different project, I could use a permanent lid (like a paint bucket lid.. they are like $3) silicone it on and then just use the 4" uniseal and a cap in that lid for the exit. for cleaning I can just pull the 4" pipe out and replace the filter floss.


You lost me on this one ...

But if you are considering using a snap-on lid that fits a 5G bucket I would advise against it. The fact that the removable Gamma Seal lid is molded in the way it is, gives it far more structural rigidity than a normal snap-on lid for a 5G bucket.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> one question... if your pump is on top ...


Near the top ... but not on it ... :wink:

The outlet of the filter will actually go through the side of the bucket, near the top.



Pdxmonkeyboy said:


> how are you going to ensure it gets primed..stays submerged enough to draw water in? once it's running it would be fine, but getting it started would be a challange.


At the point where the intake pipes go over the top tank lip I'm going to use a 3/4" PVC tee, so that two of the openings are oriented vertically (one top, one bottom), and one is horizontal (side) ... with the one opening that is horizontal going across the tank lip into 90 elbow which is oriented downward.

Same deal on the return pipe.

Above each tee will be a 3/4 female slip to 3/4 MPT adapter which will have a threaded cap on it which I can unscrew.

To purge the filter of the air, the outlet valve (or valves) get opened first ... then crack the 3/4 cap on the return at the top, where the plumbing goes over the tank lip.

Finally, open the inlet valve(s) ... the air will want to go up the return line since it is highest .

The air should purge to the point of being at the water level in the tank.


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

On the leakage problem on the lid ...

Anyone examine the plastic screw-in lid and the ring it screws into for any imperfections from the molding process ? (aka flash)

Or remove the o-ring from the lid insert and inspect it ?


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## drylander52 (May 26, 2015)

I built a canister filter around twenty five years ago using the standard seven gallon pail. The pails I used did not have the rubber gasket that some lids have now. I had the intake coming into the bottom of the pail and the return out the top. To seal the lid, I slit open a length of green silicone air tubing and fit it over the top of the pail. I cut a ring of three quarter inch plywood so it slid up the pail from the bottom and up against the ridges near the top of the pail. I cut another circle of plywood to place on top of the lid after the lid was snapped onto the pail. This top plywood had a hole in the middle of it that the return fitting came through from the lid. I screwed a Rainbow lifeguard pump to the plywood. I had approximately eight bolts that secured the bottom plywood ring to the top plywood plate. Never once in the eight years I ran those filters did one ever leak from the lid. I wish I had taken photos of the filters, but hopefully my description is clear enough. I used a prefilter on the intake of the filters. I had them filtering 270 gallon tanks and generally only had to take them apart every 9-12 months to clean them.


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

drylander52 said:


> I built a canister filter *around twenty five years ago* using the standard seven gallon pail. The pails I used did not have the rubber gasket that some lids have now. I had the intake coming into the bottom of the pail and the return out the top. To seal the lid, I slit open a length of green silicone air tubing and fit it over the top of the pail. I cut a ring of three quarter inch plywood so it slid up the pail from the bottom and up against the ridges near the top of the pail. I cut another circle of plywood to place on top of the lid after the lid was snapped onto the pail. This top plywood had a hole in the middle of it that the return fitting came through from the lid. I screwed a Rainbow lifeguard pump to the plywood. I had approximately eight bolts that secured the bottom plywood ring to the top plywood plate. Never once in the eight years I ran those filters did one ever leak from the lid. I wish I had taken photos of the filters, *but hopefully my description is clear enough*.


drylander,

Yup ... I understand exactly what ya mean ... :thumb:

Just curious: What was the reason you stopped using the filter ?



drylander52 said:


> I used a prefilter on the intake of the filters.


I have mixed feeling about that ... keeps any fry that might be in a tank from wandering into the filter ... but also requires sticking my hand in the tank periodically to pull it to clean it ... 



drylander52 said:


> I had them filtering 270 gallon tanks and generally only had to take them apart every *9-12 months* to clean them.


That's fairly impressive.

The biggest downsides I see at this point are:

1. No readily available off-the-shelf solution for a removable lid that is water/airtight (under minimal pressure) and is relatively cheap.

2. Longterm stability of the container. One of the problems with plastics is that they tend to degrade due to UV over time and become brittle - unless they are designed and made to withstand that issue. I have had numerous containers (including buckets) around here that eventually got chucked into the recycle bin because they cracked, split, or otherwise broke.

Probably part of what plays into 1 and 2 above is the commoditization of goods ... where particular goods are seen (and marketed) as a generic item, without much in the way of readily distinguishing features. Once that happens, it's a race to the bottom by manufacturers to see how far they can cut corners to lower costs.

I think part of the problem with the Gamma Seal lids not sealing is due to a lack of quality control in their manufacturing process or the particular materials they chosen to use.

On the one I have here, I can screw the lid down onto the ring without the o-ring installed and you can see that one (or possibly both) pieces is warped/deformed - one side of the lip on the screw-in portion hits the outer ring and the other doesn't quite hit it. The gap isn't much ... but it might be enough to cause an issue.

I'd imagine that Gamma Seal doesn't actually manufacture their own o-rings either - they are probably outsourced ... with one of the considerations being: How cheaply can we source this part ?

What I found when I pulled the o-ring off the one I have here, was that the o-ring itself was pretty rough with some irregularities on it's surface (including flash) I also noticed that the o-ring easily fits into the grove or channel on the screw-in portion of the lid that is designed to hold it. Makes me wonder if it is slightly under-sized - in terms of thickness or cross-section - from the practical standpoint of getting a good seal.

McMaster-Carr carries o-rings (in a whole variety of different materials) that are large enough to fit the lid. The EPDM ones (and a few other types) are less than $5 a pop. Might roll the dice and pick one up and see if that resolves the problem.

Biggest problem for me is that I don't have a large enough set of calipers to get an accurate read on the OD of the groove/channel where the o-ring is supposed to fit.

Might have to swing by Harbor Freight Tools ...


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## drylander52 (May 26, 2015)

wryan, after my post I realized i built the first filter around 1985 and another in 1986. Man,time does fly!!! We moved in 1996 and I sold off my whole fish room, around 90 tanks. It was just too much to move and we had two young children at the time. It was a few years before I got tanks going again. When I cleaned a filter, I always put a new piece of air line tubing as a gasket. I never had to buy replacement lids. These were just the plain white lids with the snap on lids

I never noticed any degradation of the pails in any manner.

I made up long "socks" out of sheet floss from a sewing place and used a pair of tongs to put it on and off the intakes. No hands in tanks! I had the filters sitting on blocks that had the output of the pump about 6 inches below the water line in the tank, so there was very little head lift on the pumps. Those pumps put out over 1000 gallons an hour and they were very energy efficient.

To get the outside diameter of the pail I laid it sideways on a large piece of paper, put a level against the two sides, scribed marks on the paper, found the centre point between the two marks and used a pencil tied to a string held at the centre mark to scribe the circle. It was a whole lot of clustering (and beer) but I finally got the ring just right. It would be much easier with the callipers!!

I believe the whole filter including the pump cost me around 125.00 which was a lot less than one of those big Eheim five gallon filters at the time. I have a ten foot long 260 gallon tank now with a couple of FX-5s on it and I am constantly having to clean these things, plus they both are at the point where the impellers are wearing out. I will likely either put the tank on a sump filter or build another canister filter.


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## wryan (Dec 6, 2015)

drylander52 said:


> wryan, after my post I realized i built the first filter around 1985 and another in 1986. Man,time does fly!!!


It do ...

That is about the time-frame where I purchased the 55 g in the living room (that isn't set up), and the two Magnums which are currently running on the other 55 that is ...



drylander52 said:


> We moved in 1996 and I sold off my whole fish room, around 90 tanks. It was just too much to move and we had two young children at the time. It was a few years before I got tanks going again.


Yup ... BTDT.



drylander52 said:


> When I cleaned a filter, I always put a new piece of air line tubing as a gasket. I never had to buy replacement lids. These were just the plain white lids with the snap on lids I never noticed any degradation of the pails in any manner.


I have had a few pails and lids go bad ... mostly when they have been left out in the sunlight. The plastic will get very brittle ... more like styrene than polyethylene.



drylander52 said:


> I made up long "socks" out of sheet floss from a sewing place and used a pair of tongs to put it on and off the intakes. No hands in tanks!


There ya go ... :thumb:



drylander52 said:


> I had the filters sitting on blocks that had the output of the pump about 6 inches below the water line in the tank, so there was very little head lift on the pumps. Those pumps put out over 1000 gallons an hour and they were very energy efficient.


I may have to explore that if I go with the canister.

At 900 gph that would be equal to draining and refilling the 55 every 3 minutes.



drylander52 said:


> To get the outside diameter of the pail I laid it sideways on a large piece of paper, put a level against the two sides, scribed marks on the paper, found the centre point between the two marks and used a pencil tied to a string held at the centre mark to scribe the circle. It was a whole lot of clustering (and beer) but I finally got the ring just right.


Great tip !



drylander52 said:


> It would be much easier with the callipers!!


Yup.

HFT carries 12" set ... unfortunately the OD jaws are only around 4" deep so that's not going to fly.

I think the easiest route is just to call Gamma Seal tomorrow and ask what size the o-ring is ... 



drylander52 said:


> I believe the whole filter including the pump cost me around 125.00 which was a lot less than one of those big Eheim five gallon filters at the time. I have a ten foot long 260 gallon tank now with a couple of FX-5s on it and I am constantly having to clean these things, plus they both are at the point where the impellers are wearing out. I will likely either put the tank on a sump filter or build another canister filter.


Most of the pipe, fittings, and valves I'm using on this project I already had ... either picked up sometime ago for plumbing projects in the house, or a year ago ... when I started looking at building a sump for the one 55 that's currently set up and running, to replace the Magnums.

I'm still not 100% committed to a canister ... and everything I've purchased or done so far could be used with either.

Will have to see if I think I can resolve the leakage issue before I make a final decision.

The canister would definitely be a shorter runway tho ...


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