# re-seal nightmare, need help!



## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

So I recently bought a 36g tank that I new leaked, 3 medium HOB filters (1 brand new), 1 small air pump, 1 200W heater and lid with light for $30. Really I was after the filters and heater. The previous owner tried to re silicone the tank, all 8 seams, by putting silicone over silicone...and lots of it! Was the ugliest job I've ever seen. After getting the tank home I also realized the bottom black trim was broken with a piece actually missing.

I've slaved away to remove all the interior silicone to find that he even siliconed the under side of the tank where the glass meets the black trim. The interior was pretty much the same looking. See below:


Now this is the most important question I'm seeking help with. Once I removed the interior silicone I've found gaps between the bottom pane of glass and the side panes of glass in 2 corners. Can I still re-seal this tank??? Obviously the tank functioned for along time before failing. The bottom pane doesn't appear true and square. It's as if there never was silicone there in the first place. This is a hagen tank. The glass sides slip down into the black trim and the bottom pane sits on a lip from the black trim. I will try to show with pics:
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This shows the broken trim with the side sliding down and you can see the bottom pane raised off the base and sitting on the lip. How much structural strength does this plastic trim provide? I have 1/2 of what is missing as a loose piece, the rest is gone.

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This shows the gap between the bottom pane and the side pane, it *might* be 1/8", tapered. The tank is upside down so you are looking at the bottom. The black trim has been pulled away (it was cracked) so you can see the gap looking into the tank. This cracked piece is complete and can be crazy glued back to the rest of the trim.

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This is looking into the tank down the side to show the space from the interior. Looking right to left you have the bottom pane, then the black lip the bottom pane sits on, then the space also showing as black, then the side pane.


When I re-silicone the interior can I just squeeze silicone into the crack then create my bead? I can make a larger bead around the 4 bottom seams and do the normal smaller ones on the vertical seams. I don't plan on removing the rest of the silicone that is on the bottom side of the bottom pane, it does nothing anyways and isn't visible.

Yes I know it would be safest to completely disassemble all pieces of glass (the plastic trim wouldn't survive) and then completely re-assemble. I don't plan on doing that unless it is actually necessary. Truth is it isn't worth the effort. I have the feeling I will be fine when I properly re-silicone all 8 interior edges and crazy glue the broke piece of bottom trim back in place.

Any advice, suggestions appreciated.


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## sirdavidofdiscus (Dec 8, 2006)

not exactly sure how it's done but try looking up Euro-bracing. It requires strips of glass about 35-50 mm wide that are as long as tank being secured at all the bottom joints.


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## rgr4475 (Mar 19, 2008)

Since you can get small used tanks pretty cheap, I would just scrap this one and get one in better condition that is factory siliconed. Not saying you can't do it yourself, but with cracked pieces and gaps that big, my piece of mind would be worth another $30-$40 (or even cheaper) for a new tank that size.


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## cichliddoc (Oct 15, 2013)

I agree with rgr, cl has better tanks than that, that people let you have. House full of water and dead fish, no thanks. You got what you really wanted anyway, right. Keep looking, good luck.


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

That tank is leaking because it was never built correctly.

When using a frame, the bottom glass should fill the frame completely and the side glass sits on top of the bottom glass panel.

This tank was made with essentially a floating bottom. Which is the standard method for making a frameless aquarium. But in that case the bottom panel is supported by a flat topped stand. Not the thin interior lip of a plastic frame. When the tank fills the bottom panel is going to move and that is going to cause the tank to leak.

Not sure who made that tank but it was poor design and engineering.

Andy


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

As far as design, there are frames out there that use the floating design. I don't really understand why you would want to, but the top and bottom that I ordered for my 67 gallon when I built it were designed this way.

I agree on scrapping this one though. A floating bottom plus gaps is a nightmare waiting to happen.


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## chiroken (Sep 25, 2007)

OK, you all win  I'll either resilicone the seams and slough off to a reptile keeper or maybe even completely disassemble and reassemble as all glass without the framing at all. Hate to just garbage it, seems like a waste. Maybe I can get $15-20 for it for hamsters gerbils or *cringe* a snake.


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

> As far as design, there are frames out there that use the floating design. I don't really understand why you would want to, but the top and bottom that I ordered for my 67 gallon when I built it were designed this way.


Almost all frames have the same profile. Like a fish hook with a flattened bottom and a lip. This is due to the necessities of injection molding. It does not mean that they were intended to be setup with a floating bottom.

Building a tank this way is not good design period.


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