# reseal, attempt myself or call someone?



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

I have a 90 gallon that overall the components are good (filter, lights stand etc) yet the tank has seen better days, there are no leaks, chips or cracks in it and it does hold water fine, but the seams are a bit rough looking inside.

I have watched a few youtube videos on resealing a tank and am on the fence about attempting it or calling a LFS to see if they can recommend anyone or do the job for me.

Curious what a standard 48x18x24 90 gallon reseal job should or would cost to do?

Anyone near Northville MI and wanna give me a hand on a saturday afternoon to attempt it?

Can't wait to get the tank going but sure am looking at the seams and saying humm really should do something with them before just filling it up...

Bill


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

If in doubt reseal it. It's way easy. Just razor out ALL old silicone cutting against glass on first pass as to not dig into the seams, clean thouroughly with alcohol, tape it off so your seams are nice and straight, apply silicone bead, smooth seams by dipping finger in alcohol and running it along the seam once in each direction, and remove tape. Allow it to cure for 24 - 36 hrs and then water test it. It's nice to have a helper. Cost $10 ($4 GE silicone 1, $1 Razor blades, $3 painters tape, $2 alcohol). Worst thing that could happen is that it leaks in which case you start over. I've resealed many tanks and believe me it is very easy. Good Luck


----------



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

I know to look for 100% silicone with no anti mold additives, and i read something about fda approved for food use, but any specific tubes from say home depot that anyone can recommend?

Think its worth a try, no idea what a new $90 gallon costs but this still works, just like to make it more sound before re-filling it.

Bill


----------



## Guams (Aug 21, 2009)

GE Silicone I - Windows and Doors :thumb:


----------



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

This would be the right stuff correct?

http://www.caulkyourhome.com/ge-silicon ... d-door.php

Just confirming before i begin a long process of removal of old seals and go buy 2-3 tubes (im guessing 2-3 tubes for a 90 gallon) to start this...

I will take some before and after pics too! Hopefully it doesn't look like a 1st grade kids project when I am done hehe

Bill


----------



## Guams (Aug 21, 2009)

Not sure if that's the same stuff or not.

This is what the bottle looks like that have used:
http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDe ... 924b_4.jpg

It'll take some practice, I'm sure. The first, and so far only, tank I've resealed was a 20 gallon... and it turned out just like you describe...a 1st grade kids project. Once I motivate myself again, I'll probably try for a better looking bead.


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

That's the stuff, just make sure and buy clear it is also available in white.


> (im guessing 2-3 tubes for a 90 gallon)


1 tube will probably be enough but buy 2 just in case. With silicone more is not necessarily better. After tank is good and clean you will be able to see the line were the old silicone seam was, use this line to guide your tape. Run your bead around the bottom of tank and them up the corners. Smooth out the bead of silicone, dipping your finger in a shot glass of alcohol before each pass will prevent silicone from sticking to your finger. With light pressure run your finger along the silicone to smooth it out in one continuous motion once in each direction cleaning and dipping finger after each pass. Just smoothing it out not trying to remove it with finger. Remove tape immediately to expose a perfectly straight edge. If you play around in it for too long you will end up with a rough 1st grader project look. Once you start applying silicone you have 5-7 minutes before it starts to set up so it's a good idea to have a helper, one guy runs the bead while the other comes behind and smooths it out.
Good Luck


----------



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

The wife and kids are going out of town thurs thru sun so i am gonna try to do this over the weekend, figure less fumes and family smelling it/complaining, what I might do is prep it all up then just do it one seam at a time so i don't have to rush, prep, tape, silicone, smooth, remove tape, go to next seam same thing, etc etc, the bottom of the tank looks good but might still just remove all that and do it over too for the heck of it since I am "in there" already...

Bill


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

NO, you need to do them all at once!!!! Silicone will not adhere to silicone. you can prep everything but all silicone must go on at the same time. New will not bond with old, it's all or nothing. I will keep an eye on this thread in case you have questions.


----------



## John27 (Jun 6, 2010)

Take it from me- a guy who had 75 gallons of water on his floor after it was "leakproof" for 3 days-

If it doesn't look perfect, re-do it, it's not worth it. I kinda blobbed up one corner and it was messy but I figured it was alright, guess where I found water GUSHING out one day? Other than that, hey man do it, resealing tanks is easy, cheap, and a great way to get cheap tanks (I can't tell you how many of these 75, 90, 125 tanks I find on craigslist for peanuts because they leak)

Also, I would leak test for a good couple of days, it's just worth it to be patient on this project.

Hope I haven't scared you away, it CAN be done, just be aware of my rookie mistake.

Finally, as a guy who sells the Silicone I stuff, what was on the home depot website and the link the gentleman above gave are the same thing, GE changed the labeling recently, less than a year ago? I should also mentioned that they changed it to say "not for aquarium use", I think that is a "save their butt" thing personally as people have had luck for a loooong time with this stuff, but if done improperly it will fail, like anything. That said, don't get too worried when it says that on the tube, it works.

Good luck!


----------



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

Thanks for letting me know its all or nothing, ill just make sure its all ready take a deep breath and hit it fast and smooth... might practice a few runs on cardboard box as recommended in another area), figure I will get 2 tubes have a bit extra for practice and maybe sticking some smaller rocks together that I planned on making some caves with etc....


----------



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

Well the weekend didn't go as planned, was hoping to get to this project but will have to get to it soon, i did go grab my razors and caulk gun/caulk, the GE Silicone 1 that lowes sells says 100% silicone window/door/attic/basement/trim (vs just window/door) but nowhere on it does it say anything about antifungal or anything beyond 100% silicone clear, so i should be ok here...

Will take pics before during and after once I do it tho... Hoping to get started on the before pics and start cleaning it in the next day or two..

Bill


----------



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

Post #39 of this thread has me wondering if i shouldn't be considering Dow 732 vs the GE silicone 1 (based on strength and elongation ratings)...

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forum ... 131&page=4

_
I am going to be using Dow Corning 732, if DC 832 were available in clear than I would be using that with out a doubt.

The 832 is so far the strongest silicone product that is suitable for use in aquariums and will adhere to glass. The tensile strength of the 832 is 350 psi and will elongate 420% before yielding; but is only available in black, grey and off-white.

732 is available in black white and clear with a tensile strength of 334 psi and will elongate 540% before yielding

For reference the GE 1 silicone and Dow corning 791 and other similar products have a tensile strength of 120 psi and will elongate 50% before yielding

Do your homework and come to your own conclusions, all of these companies publish this information online _

I gotta hit walmart tonight for giggles might see if they have some...


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

> says 100% silicone window/door/attic/basement/trim


That's the same stuff, I've used GE silicone 1 on all my tanks up to 220gal. and swear by it.


----------



## BillD (May 17, 2005)

The strength of the silicone is less important in a reseal than a rebuild. I have used a a couple of different house brands of silicone, that say "ideal for aquariums" on the tube, and they say to allow it to cure for 5 days if using on an aquarium. When I did my 90, I laid the biggest bead possible, and still didn't use a full tube. A dry run on the tank itself is a good idea. A helper is handy if you are going to roll the tank for ease of application. There isn't room for one person to apply and one to smooth.


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

Rolling the tank would eat up valuable time and risk the tank itself. Not sure of what house brands you speak of but a larger bead will only require a longer cure time with no benefit. GE silicone 1 cure time of 24hrs unless you gob it on too thick which could take several days to cure properly. More is not better, at the silicone's edge you actually want it quite thin for the best seal.


> There isn't room for one person to apply and one to smooth.


My brother-in-law and I have re-sealed countless tanks this way and it is very efficient. Works for us.


----------



## beaker99 (Apr 15, 2007)

I believe in the old saying, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I had a 120g that sprung a leak and I resealed 4 times. And still didn't trust the seal so I got rid of it.


----------



## BillD (May 17, 2005)

Malawi_Junkie said:


> Rolling the tank would eat up valuable time and risk the tank itself. Not sure of what house brands you speak of but a larger bead will only require a longer cure time with no benefit. GE silicone 1 cure time of 24hrs unless you gob it on too thick which could take several days to cure properly. More is not better, at the silicone's edge you actually want it quite thin for the best seal.
> 
> 
> > There isn't room for one person to apply and one to smooth.
> ...


Rolling the tank doesn't take time out of the job, but on a larger tank can speed up the process. I don't know how you could get two people into a 90 at the same time. I resealed mine, by myself and had no problems getting it done in time. Yes, the edge of the seal should blend into the glass, and an overly thick bead is not an advantage. It also needs to be pressed into the corner to ensure good contact. It is also my preference to try and go just beyond the old seal to try and hit virgin glass. If you cut the tube nozzle at the widest point, you will still not have a very large bead. Cure time is relative to the thickness of the bead, so arbitrarily saying 24 hours is not a good idea. That is the cure time on my tubes (24 to 48 hours), although they recommend a longer cure time for an aquarium. You can do what you want. Since silicone was originally developed as a caulk, and not an aquarium sealant, the cure times are for above water use.


----------



## Malawi_Junkie (Nov 26, 2009)

> Rolling the tank doesn't take time out of the job, but on a larger tank can speed up the process.


If you have to stop to roll the tank how does this not take time out of the job?


> It is also my preference to try and go just beyond the old seal to try and hit virgin glass.


 I agree, I misunderstood. Thought you were talking about thickness of the bead not the width.
I am trying to help him out not argue with you Bill. If you prefer to work alone thats fine, I never said both parties climb into the tank. One party applies and one smooths working opposite sides of the tank. Let's help him re-seal his tank not just confuse him.


----------



## FTLOSM (Mar 20, 2007)

I am such a nervous nilly, i looked up tank sealing all over google got a good idea what to do just gotta DO it now, lucky we have an outdoor shed for the lawnmower and stuff ill do it up and then let it cure up then fill and let it sit out there in the shed for a few days to confirm all sealed up ok.

Will probably do the work outside (for the smell) then bring in to cure (since it gets pretty hot out there just want it to cure not bake)...

Bill


----------



## BillD (May 17, 2005)

Malawi_Junkie said:


> > Rolling the tank doesn't take time out of the job, but on a larger tank can speed up the process.
> 
> 
> If you have to stop to roll the tank how does this not take time out of the job?
> ...


Sorry man, wasn't trying to start an argument. I personally find it easier to do the verticals on a larger tank while they are horizontal. I believe I can go faster and do a neater job. I prefer to have some one available to help flip the tank; I don't have anyone I trust to smooth the bead.
Cheers.


----------

