# Something differenrt for background... Works Great!



## Cich of it all

I got sick of dealing with those backgrounds that come on a roll. I can never seem to get them to lay perfectly flat, and it's hard to keep water out from behind it. I remedied the latter by running clear tape along the top edge the whole length of the tank, but this results in the top inch or two of background to be pulled rearward due to the aquarium trim being thicker.

So, here's what I did:
I went to Menard's (semi-local home improvement mega-store) and purchased a sheet of 1/8" acrylic big enough to cover the back of the tank. I trimmed it so it fit PERFECTLY between the upper and lower trim strips on the tank. (this is important, otherwise you'll have a gap at the top edge.) Then I used Krylon Fusion primer for plastic and coated one side completely. When that was dry, I sprayed the panel with "stone creations" paint by Rustoleum. This stuff is great. It looks just like granite. Finally, I fit the panel between the upper and lower trim strips on the tank (on the outside BTW), and taped it in place. I ran clear wide tape all the way around the panel to ensure no water gets in between.

I couldn't be happier with the results. The back wall looks just like it's against a solid granite cliff. Total cost for a 125 gallon: $20. For the 90 gallon: $15. About the same price as those backgrounds on a roll, and WAY nicer looking.


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## maxwell1295

Where's the pic?


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## Cich of it all

...Coming soon.
Sorry, I'm in the process of rearranging all of my tanks right now and I haven't had a chance for pics yet.
See this:
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=79


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## prov356

Great idea. :thumb: One of the best I've seen here in a while. I'm waiting for pics too.


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## nick a

You can also spray that style paint directly onto the tank and bypass the acrylic sheet altogether. I use it on all the bottoms of my non-substrated fry/juvie tanks.
Ansd have used it to simulate sand in painted on BGs.


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## Cich of it all

Wow, good idea painting the bottom like that. That never crossed my mind. It looks just like my background. 
I do prefer the acrylic sheet though, mainly for the ability to change the background in the future, but also to make the tank easier to sell when I do my next big revamp. I seem to be in the habit (a bad habit if you ask my wife) of continually buying bigger tanks and selling off the smaller ones.


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## Ape-Fish

Great ideas! :thumb: I presume you painted the _outside_ of the tank bottom Nick a?


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## Cich of it all

It looks like he painted the inside.

Here's a rough pic of the background, I'll have more once I get the tank fully setup.:









This was the "black granite" color. My 90 has the "gray stone" on it
I think this one has an outer space look to it.


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## SYcichlid

:thumb: Great idea guys..Can't wait to try this one first hand..


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## aperry

What a neat idea!

I may do this instead of paint the back of the tank! I'm getting soooo many great ideas from this site as I am getting ready to set up my tank.

Aperry


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## Cich of it all

May as well!
I don't think you'd be able to tell the difference between this and a tank with the back painted.


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## aperry

Could I use the Krylon Fusion Primer and the "Stone Creation" and do the same thing to the filter intakes so they would blend in with the background?


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## Cich of it all

Yeah that works too. I plan on doing that soon to mine.


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## aperry

Great. That answers the question to my other post on here about intakes. I also just read your review on the Aquael Unimax Pro Filters. Just when I think I know what filter to buy you throw me for a loop. It was going to be the Eheims, then the Marineland, and now this. Back to the drawing board. But when it's all said and done, I'll probably go with my original thought and go with the Eheims. But you never know.


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## geoff_tropheus

That is a awesome idea. Looks really nice!


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## Cich of it all

It's easier to find a good deal on an Eheim, plus I hear the parts for the Unimax are a pain to get. Maybe that'll help a bit.


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## Ape-Fish

So is it really safe then, to apply "stone creation" and "krylon fusion primer" to surfaces that go into the aquarium?


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## douayang

Ape-Fish said:


> So is it really safe then, to apply "stone creation" and "krylon fusion primer" to surfaces that go into the aquarium?


Thanks for asking that. It's what I wanted to ask as well.


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## Cich of it all

Well, I know the krylon fusion is safe. I think the stone stuff will be fine as long as you let it dry for a few days. There was one post in this thread where the person sprayed the inside glass of his tank and it was fine.
Btw, for what its worth, I was a little off on the name of the paint. The Rustoleum stuff is called "American Accent Stone Spray" and the Krylon equivelent is called "Make it Stone"


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## bibbs68

I know the product is two part, the 'stone' spray and a clear sealer.

Would you use the clear sealer on objects being put in the water? It has some nasty ingredients.


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## Cich of it all

Neither of the products I mentioned were sold as two part. I wouldn't want a clear coat; it could take away the dull "stone-like" finish.


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## IrkedCitizen

Cich of it all said:


> There was one post in this thread where the person sprayed the inside glass of his tank and it was fine....


I think they painted the outside bottom. They didn't state one way or the other. So until they comment saying that they painted the inside I wouldn't tell people it is safe.


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## Cich of it all

It was the inside. Otherwise you would be able to see the black tank trim where the back meets the front.


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## IrkedCitizen

you can see the silicone. if he painted inside there would most likely be paint on the silicone.


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## Cich of it all

Most paint does not stick to silicone. Most likely he masked the silicone.You guys are right though, until (if) that poster tells us, we shouldn't make any guesses.


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## IrkedCitizen

go look at the first picture they posted. click on it. you can see the wood trim to the right of the sponge filter where the paint stops...then the silicone.

we obviously DO NOT know that they painted the inside of the tank until they tell us what they did. it's that simple. but it looks like they painted the outside of the bottom glass.


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## Cich of it all

please re-read my last post. I editted it.
BTW, I can tell you that Krylon fusion is definitely safe though. I use IT on all my intakes.


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## Cich of it all

Ok, I PM'ed the guy so hopefully we can get an answer.


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## nick a

Sorry, I diidn't realize that I left it hangin'  Thanks for the PM A!

The paint (bottoms & backs) is all on the outside. The stone splatter paint (I used the one part Rustoleum style noted by Cich) creates a roughish topcoat that I thought would be too hard to clean if sprayed inside--so I didn't/ & haven't investigated it for safety on the interior.


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## Cich of it all

See, I told you it was on the outsi... Oh wait; Umm  
Looks like assuming made an A55 out of just me! :?
So, I guess we *don't* know if the stuff is safe on the inside. :-?


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## FTLOSM

This sounds like a great idea for a quick to change backing, you could even figure out a way to paint both sides different textures and flip it now and then, securing it would have to be easy enough to swap around, but would be a cool way to change background cheap and easy, really would love to see more pics of anyone who has done this to a background if at all possible...


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## Cich of it all

It is easy to swap / flip it. It would be easier, however, if I hadn't taped all the way around it. This does keep water out nicely though.


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## Zero-Chaos

Just wanted to say thanks to "Cich of it all" for sharing this idea. I have been looking to get a new background and wasn't really wanting to get the paper again, and was unsure of the whole painting the glass, then not liking how it turned out and having to scrape it scenario. This was a very happy medium.

Thanks again for sharing :thumb:


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## andrew14

Cich of it all, I used the exact product (same color, too) directly on my 38 gallon tank background about a month ago. It works great...


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## Cich of it all

> Thanks again for sharing


No problem! That what this forum is all about.


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## fish_r_fun

I am hopefuly getting a 75 in Sept and I was wondering what and how to put a background on it. Now I have the perfect Idea. Thanks a ton. I will take pics and give yall and play by play so to speak.

Dave


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## FTLOSM

Still dyin to see this on the back of a tank, checked at home depot the other day and a plexiglass piece would be about $15 for my size 48x24 and I would trim to 48x20, then a can or two of paint (maybe two different colors and a base primer so 3 cans total would be about $20

So for about $35 I can at least try this...

Just would be nice if someone has done it to see some pics to show wife to see if she will allow the spending...hehe

Bill


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## Cich of it all

> Just would be nice if someone has done it to see some pics to show wife to see if she will allow the spending...hehe


I posted a pic on page 1 of this thread. About halfway down the page. Also, see my tanks.


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## TrashmanNYC

what do you use to trim the plexiglass, how thick is it?


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## aperry

When I made my background using Chic's idea, I used 1/8 inch plexiglass I think it was. (I'm not home to measure it.) I just know it was a pretty thin piece. I used a good straight edge and a box cutter to score it a few times and it snapped right off. Just use a new blade. That's the method that worked for me.

And I used black electrical tape to tape it at the top and bottom so just in case it's not a perfect fit, the tape will cover it up. (If you paint it black)

APerry


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## gordonrp

nick a said:


> You can also spray that style paint directly onto the tank and bypass the acrylic sheet altogether. I use it on all the bottoms of my non-substrated fry/juvie tanks.
> Ansd have used it to simulate sand in painted on BGs.


anyone know where to get this in the UK? i like that bottom painted effect....


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## Guest

Anyone else try this?

Last night I dissembled my quarantine tank and dumped all the black sand out and sprayed the "COLOR: 238322 - Tuscan Rock" on the bottom to be the new substrate look.

When it's dried and I have the tank up and running over the next day or so I'll take pictures.

One question though everybody. Did you guys use any of those clear plastic sprays to cover the stone spray paint? The Rustoleum recommends it and is making me think of tomorrow buying one of those polyurethane spray paints or something.

~Ed


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## IrkedCitizen

You sprayed the outside bottom of the tank right? If you sprayed the inside DO NOT fill your tank and put fish in it!

With it being on the outside bottom of the tank there really is no need for that other coat you are talking about. Because chances of it scratching off are slim.


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## Guest

IrkedCitizen said:


> You sprayed the outside bottom of the tank right? If you sprayed the inside DO NOT fill your tank and put fish in it!
> 
> With it being on the outside bottom of the tank there really is no need for that other coat you are talking about. Because chances of it scratching off are slim.


Yes I did the *outside* bottom :lol:. (I'd feel like a HUGE idiot if I didn't). Either way if I did do that I could just put drylok or something on top of it if I wasn't able to get it off with a razor...either way it should come off with a razor...permanent marker comes off my tanks with razors (I sometimes when medicating or just as notes I write on the front or side glass of my tanks to remind me to strip a fish, dose a certain medication, etc) so I don't see why spray paint wouldn't.

Thanks for the immediate concern though .

Do you think it would be necessary though to apply a clear plastic coat on top of the stone spray paint? This is what the website says:


Rustoleum website said:


> APPLICATION TIP: Wait 4 hours and apply a clear top coat for extra protection.


~Ed


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## D-007

I hope you don't take this the wrong way but if you think of it like this ...

say you spray a wooden or metal chair with your chosen paint, people are going to sit on it, they're going to stand on it etc. Without the clear coat, the paint will eventually 'rub-off' so to speak, as the visible side is always going to be disturbed by someones butt, foot or whatever.

now, the other scenario, you spray said paint on the outside bottom of the tank's glass and let it dry for recommended drying time. Once the tank is set up and you aren't sliding your tank over any surfaces, that visible side is not going to be disturbed - so no need for a clear coat.

That's how I look at it and again, I'm not trying to be a smartarse and hope no offense is taken by my reasoning.

Regards,
D


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## IrkedCitizen

D-007 said:


> I hope you don't take this the wrong way but if you think of it like this ...
> 
> say you spray a wooden or metal chair with your chosen paint, people are going to sit on it, they're going to stand on it etc. Without the clear coat, the paint will eventually 'rub-off' so to speak, as the visible side is always going to be disturbed by someones butt, foot or whatever.
> 
> now, the other scenario, you spray said paint on the outside bottom of the tank's glass and let it dry for recommended drying time. Once the tank is set up and you aren't sliding your tank over any surfaces, that visible side is not going to be disturbed - so no need for a clear coat.
> 
> That's how I look at it and again, I'm not trying to be a smartarse and hope no offense is taken by my reasoning.
> 
> Regards,
> D


That's how I look at it too. There is nothing to scratch it when in place so the only way it can get damaged is when it's moved. The clear coat isn't needed in this case. Also if you ever decided to change color the "extra protection" might make it harder to remove.


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## Guest

D-007 said:


> I hope you don't take this the wrong way but if you think of it like this ...
> 
> say you spray a wooden or metal chair with your chosen paint, people are going to sit on it, they're going to stand on it etc. Without the clear coat, the paint will eventually 'rub-off' so to speak, as the visible side is always going to be disturbed by someones butt, foot or whatever.
> 
> now, the other scenario, you spray said paint on the outside bottom of the tank's glass and let it dry for recommended drying time. Once the tank is set up and you aren't sliding your tank over any surfaces, that visible side is not going to be disturbed - so no need for a clear coat.
> 
> That's how I look at it and again, I'm not trying to be a smartarse and hope no offense is taken by my reasoning.
> 
> Regards,
> D


That's what I was thinking, that it wouldn't really be necessary for what I'm using the paint for. On the other hand, I have no idea how easy this paint can be scraped off....if it is very flaky I probably should add the clear coat but if it is hard and tough I feel it should be fine...

~Ed


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## Guest

IrkedCitizen said:


> D-007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you don't take this the wrong way but if you think of it like this ...
> 
> say you spray a wooden or metal chair with your chosen paint, people are going to sit on it, they're going to stand on it etc. Without the clear coat, the paint will eventually 'rub-off' so to speak, as the visible side is always going to be disturbed by someones butt, foot or whatever.
> 
> now, the other scenario, you spray said paint on the outside bottom of the tank's glass and let it dry for recommended drying time. Once the tank is set up and you aren't sliding your tank over any surfaces, that visible side is not going to be disturbed - so no need for a clear coat.
> 
> That's how I look at it and again, I'm not trying to be a smartarse and hope no offense is taken by my reasoning.
> 
> Regards,
> D
> 
> 
> 
> That's how I look at it too. There is nothing to scratch it when in place so the only way it can get damaged is when it's moved. The clear coat isn't needed in this case. Also if you ever decided to change color the "extra protection" might make it harder to remove.
Click to expand...

Good point about the extra coat making it harder to remove....

I'll take a look tomorrow when it's dry and see how well it attached to the bottom of the tank.

The website says it comes off with soap and hot water, though that could just be if you get it on your skin... But anyway that's what made me worry about whether or not the clear coat would be needed, that if a what-should-be permanent pain coating comes off with soap and water, would it come off from just the slightest scrape against wood on my stand? I guess I'll just have to wait to tomorrow to see for myself...

~Ed


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## exasperatus2002

Sold!! Now I know what I'll be doing for my 55 Im putting together. I like the 3d foam/cement rocks but I dont like the water displacement/stocking limitations it creates with its bulk. [/list]


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## D-007

I would think that if you slide it onto your wooden stand, there is the *possibility* that it may scrape off - but that can be avoided by lifting it onto it or by smoothing out the top of the sand with some high grit sand paper. Personally, I feel it won't be an issue if the paint has dried fully.


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## nick a

Most glass tanks rest on the perimeter rim. You just need to paint the bottom glass. It should not come in contact with the stand. There is no reason to require any kind of top coat whatsoever nor any concern for any wearing at all.


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