# DIY Sump/plumbing project for 125g tank



## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Hey all time to start this thread. I figure if I have the whole forum on the edge of their seats waiting for updates, I'll be more motivated to get my butt working on this  I really need to get this sump cycling so when I'm finished with everything else, I won't have to wait around for a cycle  

Pics will be up hopefully within the next couple hours, but in the mean time I thought I'd describe what I'm doing...

Tank is a 125g with corner overflows, drilled for both 2 drains and 2 returns. I plan to build 2 durso standpipes to be installed in each overflow. I need to get 4 bulkheads (2 for each drain and 2 for each return), but I don't know what size I need. I haven't yet measured the size of the drilled holes. Each standpipe will drain to its own 5g bucket. The bucket will have a bunch of large, non restrictive holes drilled in the bottom, and "chambers" separated by lighting grid and a DIY drip tray I'll construct out of an extra bucket lid. The buckets will hold all of the filtering media, and will sit in 2 large holes cut in the center of a 54g rubbermaid container. Inside the rubbermaid container itself will be nothing but the return pump (a rio hyperflow 32HF), and a heater (TBD). The return plumbing will be quite the system. I think I won't try to describe it in words and just post a schematic later on when I put pics up. Into the tank, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the returns. I thought about doing an UGJ system, but I already vac my tanks once a week and I don't really consider it a problem, and I've heard some potentially bad things about them, such as greatly reducing flow and whatnot, so I think I might pass on them. I'm open for options here.

Now for my list of questions:

1: My overflows are what they are, but is there a way I can determine the flow rate they're rated for? Might be a mute point by now since I already have the pump, but I'm still curious. The overflows form an arc across each back corner. The overflow is such that it can drain from the bottom as well as skim from the top. Probably a standard design, I just don't know what it is.

2: Is there somewhere that tells me what size bulkheads I need based on what size holes are drilled into the tank? I can't really build my standpipes or configure any other plumbing until I know what size bulkheads I'll have.

3: Where can I find the thin walled PVC conduit for building my standpipes? Home depot around me only carries the normal stuff (sch 40?). Also, what about fittings, adapters, barbed fittings, gate valves, ball valves, etc. Is there an all in one type of place for this stuff? I'm not sure of all the fittings or adapters I'm going to need yet, but I don't think i'll be able to find everything I need at HD...

4: Filter media... I'm currently collecting a bunch of DIY options, but I'm not sure what i'm going to use or what I should and shouldn't use. First thing I got was a couple blue/white filter pads I picked up for cheap from a LFS. I have enough material to cut 2 pads for each bucket. I figure I can get a few "rinse and reuses" out of them. I plan to use a certain amount of polyfill/quilt batting/pillow stuffing/etc. in each bucket. At work, I picked up a couple large pieces of open cell packing foam. From what I can tell, its slightly more dense than the aquaclear foam blocks. Its about 2" thick. I have enough material to cut 2 discs for each bucket. Not sure how "aquarium safe" this stuff is though... I bought 42 pot scrubbers for $7 the other day, but its only the first dent of "bio media" I was planning on adding. After getting them and thinking about it, I realized that buying the pot scrubbers really won't be much more cost effective compared to buying bio balls, but I'm intending for my bio media to be submerged while bio balls are meant to be used in a wet-dry configuration. My general goal is to do ALL the mechanical filtering before getting to the bio media, 1) so that I don't have to disturb the bio media often, and 2) so that it hopefully doesn't trap much debris and become a nitrate factory. I know I probably don't really need dedicated bio media, but I figure since most of my mechanical media will have to be regularly replaced, and I'm used to the bio media from my AQ 110's, it makes me more comfortable to have it.

So, my question is, knowing all this, can you offer any more suggestions for filter media I could try out in my 5g buckets, either DIY or manufactured? Does it sound like these buckets full of media should have any problem passing ~600gph water each through them?

5: What are some option for the return flow into the main tank? Spraybars? UGJ? Straight pipe into tank? I think I might do an under water spray bar a couple inches below the water line along the back of the tank, painted black to match the background. What do you think?

Sorry for all the questions. If all goes well, I should have a schematic and a couple pics up in about an hour. I'd appreciate any and all advice!


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

I promised pics, here they are. Not sure why a couple are randomly rotated 90degress... :?

First pic shared of the new tank:









Close up of overflow, notice the drains at the bottom:









Overflow chamber - the previous owner decided to use silicone around the bulkheads :x :x :x Not going to like scraping down in there...









Sump container - 54g rubbermaid container, giant holes in the lid, standard stuff.









Media buckets - 5g home depot buckets









See all the holes... wish I had a bigger drill bit, but I consider it good practice for the upcoming drip tray construction :roll: 









Blue white filter pad - Ginger Super blue









Scavenged open cell foam









Lots of pot scrubbies - 42 looks to be enough for 1 bucket. Guess that means another $7 finishes of my bio media.









Return Pump - Rio hyperflow 32HF. Question: What do I need to do to secure the slip to mpt fitting to the pump? Will tephlon tape be enough? Or do I need to glue or cement the fitting on? Not sure if I want to make it permanent...









Enjoy the pics, and I'm open for more ideas and suggestions.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Lowes has a better selection of sch40 ftg's. They also carry thin wall pvc in various diameters. I go to the local irragation supplies for hard to find 90Ã‚Â° sweeps and other sch40 ftg's. Then when I just cannot find what I need I head out to the pool supply for contractors. I tend to spend an hour or so just browsing at what can be fit into those tight quarters under the stand. Get more than you think you will need and even one or two you won't need, they come in handy after the stores are closed.

Do not glue anything to the pump and for the first foot or more use flex pvc or vinyl tubing to help quiet the system. Clear tubing allows for algae, ie more maintenance in the future.

I use similar overflows. They draw from the bottom middle and top very effectively if those are the same as ours. You will be surprised at how little space you have to work with in there when putting together the durso's.

Check out this link for DIY durso's http://www.dursostandpipes.com/

Mebbe consider googling all glass aquarium megaflow's and look at their kit http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/p ... atid=12078

It comes with all the hardware necessary and flows better than 700 gph from my experience. We bought them cheaper locally for our last tank.

Sorry for the long reply.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

No apologies needed for the long reply - I appreciate all the help and advice. Especially thank you for the link to the AGA megaflow kit. It looks like exactly what I need and just about exactly like what I was going to try to build. I'm sure I could probably eventually build it for cheaper than the kit costs, but getting the kit would save me all kinds of time and frustration trying to figure out what I need and where to find it, so I'm seriously considering getting the kits at this point.

But first, is there any way I can confirm that my tank does indeed use the 1" and 3/4" bulkheads before getting the kits? I'm pretty sure that there is a reef store a little ways south from me. Actually, more I think back to when I bought the tank, the prev. owner mentioned the store and being able to get "the standpipe kits" for around $50, so I'm sure this is what he was talking about. I wasn't really paying that much attention to that detail though because I was excited about the tank and only had DIY durso standpipes in mind.

My overflows sound very similar to what you describe, and look very similar to the overflows in the picture in the kit link. Only difference is my overflows only drain from the top and bottom - there is no extra drain in the middle.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

I think that might be a perfecto tank but the overflows look similkar to AGA. Ours have another series of slices mid way up. I can not give you the dimensions of the bulkheads since ours are occupied but a little research could prolly find it.

(2) 1" drains will flow enough for your tank. You coud measure the diameters of the drilled holes and then ask to inspect the parts before purchasing. I'll see if we kept the instructions and if any sizes are innit. We have two 1" megaflow drains on a 210G tank and get great results.


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## johncl (Mar 10, 2010)

Can't wait to see the finished sump.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Alright, here's my first pass basic flow loop schematic. Let me know if it looks like I missed anything. I haven't put a lot of the adapters on yet. For the drain lines, I'm thinking of heading to a pool store and getting some spaflex - should be about the right time of year to find what I need. For the return lines, I use some kind of 1" flexible tubing. Probably see what I can find at HD, something pressure rated, obv. I'm open for comments, ideas, and suggestions.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

The 1" bulkhead drain will use a 1-1/4" tube diameter to its barb ftg. That was hard to find around here locally in spa flex. Consider using a small piece of clear vinyl tubing at the bulkhead ftg. That will leave a 1" or so"inspection window" to see bubbles in the drain back to the sump. I got some 1-1/4" threaded barb ftg's and threaded bushings and slipped into 1-1/2" pvc 90Ã‚Â° sweeps. Then you can use 1-1/2" spa flex or rigid pvc to get to your bio towers. The only 1-1/4" spa flex around here came in 50' rolls.

You might want to put a gate or ball valve on one or both drain lines. You can let one go full siphon and fine tune the other one to quiet the system. You will see what I mean if your pump is a bit undersized to your drains. You definately want to drain more than you pump but to really quiet the drains this is where you fine tune. Others might disagree but this has worked for me. Then if your pump is overpowered for your drains you leave them both open and divert at the tee off your supply side back to the sump.

Looks good so far :thumb:


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Update: I just ordered the AGA kits and the 3 barbed Tee fittings from foster and smith aquatics. I figured I could find better deals elsewhere on things like tubing and hoseclamps. I measured the holes in the bottom of the tank, and the large hole measured 1-3/4", which is the required hole diam. for a 1" bulkhead, so I figured the kit would work for my tank.

As soon as this stuff comes in, I plan on putting the pump in the sump and running some tubing and a Tee adapter to each bucket to get the sump cycling while I finish up everything else. Anyone know a good source for ball or gate valves, either online or in stores?



> You might want to put a gate or ball valve on one or both drain lines. You can let one go full siphon and fine tune the other one to quiet the system. You will see what I mean if your pump is a bit undersized to your drains. You definately want to drain more than you pump but to really quiet the drains this is where you fine tune. Others might disagree but this has worked for me. Then if your pump is overpowered for your drains you leave them both open and divert at the tee off your supply side back to the sump.


I see what you mean here, but I thought that the standpipes were quieted by fine tuning the air hole at the top of the standpipe? or is that not possible with the AGA kit? I've been trying to figure out just how much flow I should expect from my pump. My pump is a rio 32HF, which is rated for 1920GPH @ 1ft, 1500GPH @ 4ft, and 1300GPH @ 6ft with a max head of 14'. I estimate that the difference in height between my sump operating water level and the display water level will be at most 4'. I just don't know how much head loss to account for in the plumbing. I've sort of been guessing that I'd be around 1200-1300 GPH flow, but I suppose it could be more or less depending on how accurate I'm estimating the head loss due to the plumbing. If I'm right with my estimation, I'm going to be right about at the max rated flow of the AGA kits.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

Just a quick comment, I notice the pump is sitting on the bottom of your sump.

I've seen some videos that raise the pump inside the sump (on a stand) to where it is just under the sump water line. That way if your drain is clogged (you have two, so I can't think of a situation this would occur!) then it will stop returning water to the tank sooner than later.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

That is I good idea I hadn't thought of. It is true that my drains shouldn't ever get completely clogged, but you never know. Maybe I'll get a 3rd bucket and place it inside the sump, cut some weirs in it, and place the pump down in the bucket, so if there is a clog, the most that can be pumped back up into the tank is 5-10g.

I got another update for today. My beautiful wife came home from the store today with 7 more packs of pot scubbers that I have been looking for. And she still insists she doesn't like nor care about my tank or my fish. She doesn't fool me any more 

Also, I was at a privately owned ace hardware today looking for a small socket set for another project, and decided to take a look around for aquarium stuff. I found that they carry 1-1/4" spaflex tubing by the foot, so I grabbed what I think will be enough for my drains. I also grabbed some braided clear vinyl tubing. I know I was advised against clear tubing so that algea doesn't grow on the inside, but I figure the tubing will be down under the stand where there will be little if any light 99% of the time, so I shouldn't have to worry about it. If it becomes a problem, I'll wrap the tubes in something to keep the light out. They also had 1" plastic barbed Tee's, so I grabbed one of them even though I have some being shipped to me so now I can actually get my sump cycling... today! Well, maybe not. In my haste (the store was closing), I forgot to grab any hose clamps  so I'll have to get them tomorrow. But tonight I can finish drilling holes in my second media bucket and cut enough tubing and get it all situated so when I get home from work tomorrow all I've got to do is put on the hose clamps, fill up the sump, and turn on the pump.

Then the next few weeks will be a nice test run for my pump. I've been hearing some mixed reviews about it lately and I'm starting to question whether I've purchased the right pump . we'll see how it goes.

Starting to get really close to getting this tank set up now...


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

The durso's do quiet the system but air is pulled down into the stream and you will hear this. Once you get it running let one drain go full siphon and adjust the other, it'll make sense when you see it in action. I raised the durso's till they hit the glass lids.

Make sure to get stainless steel clamps. Lowes has a good selection of ballvalves. Gatevalves I have only found online.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Alright, so I just started my sump cycling today. I drilled a bunch of holes in the second bucket, and cut some tubing. I simplified the plumbing a bit for the cycling process - i just have a length of tubing running from the pump to a Tee, and then lengths of tubing running from the tee to each bucket. I shouldn't have to recut or waste any of this tubing when I hook it up to the tank, just turn the Tee, add the valves, and a couple extra lengths of tubing. Also, never did find any stainless hose clamps. Grabbed some regular steel ones and figured I could get by with them at least long enough to cycle the sump. But, after hooking everything up, turns out hose clamps aren't really necessary. I guess there just isn't enough pressure building up in the tubing, so that the friction between the barbs and the hoses is enough.

i only have the pot scrubbies in the sump so hopefully most of the bacteria will grow on them. Also found out that pot scrubbies like to float lol. So I have some flat rocks holding them down for the time being.

Ace has ball valves I can use, but no gate valves - anyone have any reasons why I can't just use a ball valve to control the recirculating flow rather than a gate valve? I know a gate valve is better for fine adjustments, but would I be able to get the job done with a ball valve instead?


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

Cool! I'm curious to know if you can hear the pump running, or is it quiet submerged?


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Ball valves will work just fine. Make sure you try them out for ease of use before you puchase. Some are sticky right from the start.

I would reconsider using some sort of clamps. 'Specially on the pump pressure side.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

jchild40 said:


> Cool! I'm curious to know if you can hear the pump running, or is it quiet submerged?


There is a definitive hummmmmm. But it doesn't bother me. The suction cups and little rubber standoffs are supposed to dampen vibrations, but seeing as I don't have a nice flat surface for my pump to stick to, I don't think they're doing much good in my sump.



fox said:


> Ball valves will work just fine. Make sure you try them out for ease of use before you puchase. Some are sticky right from the start.
> 
> I would reconsider using some sort of clamps. 'Specially on the pump pressure side.


I noticed some of the ball valves at ACE were stickier than others. As for clamps, 24 hrs no leaks :thumb: I think I'm going to end up getting some stainless clamps online though because I think there are a couple more fittings I'm going to need anyways.

My AGA drainpipes came today. They're nice. Worth the price so long as they actually work  . My return plumbing is all 1" tubing, but I didn't realize the return bulkhead would only have a 3/4" barb :? , so I'm going to have to get 2 1" x 3/4" reducing barb fittings, and small lengths of 3/4" tubing when I actually set up the whole system.

Speaking of the whole system, this rio 32HF really heats up water. The sump cycling on its own is up to 88degF after 24hours. I'm not going to need much of a heater at all once the whole tank is hooked up.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

How's this going *Rhinox*? I just purchased the 20HF for a sump on a 75.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Sump is cycled, and just adding a bit of ammonia to it whenever I feel like it to keep it that way. Water in the sump gets really warm.

Finishing up major construction on my hood. Its almost ready for paint, and then I can wire up my DIY bathroom strip lights.

Haven't really messed with the tank and the AGA kits much yet. I need to cut the return pipes down to the correct length. I need to do a thorough clean of the tank and scrape out some old silicone around the drilled holes where the previous owner tried to seal the bulkheads :roll:

And thats about it. Still need to get the adapters I mentioned in my last post, and in the meantime I made a DIY sponge filter for a 10g fry tank since my labs just had some babies. I imagine they'll outgrow their floating box before too long. Should be setting up the 125 within the next 2-3 weeks I think.


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## ksk_che_che (Sep 26, 2007)

Update!


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## Sav505 (Apr 26, 2005)

Your design is similar to one I made a few years ago. Mine was full of pot scrubbers just like yours. It was an awesome filter!


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

Haven't been on here in a while. Last couple months were pretty busy, I haven't really acomplished much on setting up the 125. My filter has been cycled and every few days I add a little more ammonia to it. The pump's getting a good test run before my entire stock is at risk. I need to finish construction on my stand elements, and then get my little bother to come up and help me move the tank outside to fill and test and make sure everything works without leaking. All I have to do is finish the trim and door on my canopy, paint it, and install the lighting and I'll be all set. Then its just moving stuff around and cutting all my plumbing to the proper lengths and what not. Its really not more than a week of work to get the tank up and running, I just have to get off my butt and find time and motivation to do it.

Just thought you guys might like an update - sorry there's not much of an update.


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## natedgg (Apr 9, 2011)

Rhinox said:


> Its really not more than a week of work to get the tank up and running, I just have to get off my butt and find time and motivation to do it.


It's been a bit over a week, did you ever finish this?!?!  I'm planning on building one and am curious if your plan worked out.


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## Rhinox (Sep 10, 2009)

yeah, the tank musta been set up not long after my last post in this thread. The sump is a 55g glass aquarium because the rubbermaid leaked. I have some pics around the site here somewhere in other threads.

Sorry, been away from the site for a few months and catching up on old threads.


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## Chunkanese (Feb 4, 2011)

If your having problem with the pump vibrating, why not get a small piece of glass you can submerge in the sump and stick it to the pump? Im picturing it in my mind that your placing your pump at the base of the sump, so a piece of glass would fix that perfectly. Great build by the way!


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