# Newbie to aquariums. Need some help.



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Hello. My name is Lauren and I just started my fish tank within the past month and I'm having ammonia and nitrite problems. So here's the scoop:

20 gal tank
Gravel/rocks/fake plants
Temp at 78 degrees 
Cichlids: (one of each)
Jewel
Fire mouth
Acei
Auratus cichlid
And a pleco

I set up my tank with the decor, heater, and filter a little over a week before I got 3 of my cichlids. I used top fin water conditioner when I set it up. Then 7 days later got 2 more fish to complete my tank. This week I got my test kit in the mail which is the API master kit. I got it because I noticed the acei would rub against the rocks a lot so I wanted to make sure the water was good. So I tested it 2 days ago and got these results.

PH: 8.1
Ammonia:2ppm
Nitrite:0.50ppm
Nitrate:0-4ppm

So I added ammo lok by API and tested it again today and my ammonia was 4ppm so it increased. Now all the fish are eating fine but every once in a while some will rub on the rocks. But other then that everything is fine. After this second test I did not add more ammo lok because I'm new at this and I'm not sure I know what I'm doing. I came here to see if you guys could help. Thanks. Anything else you need to know to help then please do ask. Cheers


----------



## sumthinfishy (Jan 26, 2013)

your tank is not cycled, the stock that u have is not compatible, and tank is really to small for any of those fish. i think you should return the fish, allow tank to cycle, then rethink your stock after doing a little research. the fish are suffering right now due to the ammonia in tank. if the ammonia doesnt kill them soon, then they will kill eachother. sorry to be blunt, but trying to be honest.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Hi Lauren and Welcome to C-F!

I do agree that your tank hasn't properly cycled yet since your water tests are showing ammonia and nitrite and little nitrate. What this means is your beneficial bacteria have not been fully established to support the amount of fish in your tank.

If it is possible to return the fish to your local fish store please do so. If you cannot return them, you will need to start doing daily water changes of 50% in order to reduce the ammonia and nitrite present as these can cause permanent harm to the fish. When you do the water changes, don't forget to dose the water conditioner at the same time.

Your choice of fish for this tank will also be a problem in the near future. The Acei will outgrow the tank in a couple months and the auratus can become a bully when mature in a few months.

Is your tank a 20L or a 20H?


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

My tank is a 20H. I understand its a small tank. I plan on upgrading but my fish are still small.

I have read up on cichlids and they all seem to be a bit aggressive (not all but most) depending on environment, other fish, etc. the fish I have seem to have gotten used to eachother and live together fine. I watch them all morning and evening before i work. So if something were to arise i will take care of it so fish arent harming eachother. I do have an attachment already.

And as to the filter how do you get the water goood enough for fish without having fish in there? Doesnt that help the beneficial factor? I just recieved a siphon cleaning tool yesterday and plan to do a partial water change. Thanks to all who commented eve though it was bad news haha.


----------



## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

There are a couple methods to properly cycle a tank before you purchase fish. One is to set the tank up with everything but fish and run it for 4 to 6 weeks while you wait for the good bacteria to naturally populate the tank. The second method is to use the Fishless Cycling method (link in my signature) using clear household ammonia w/out surfactants, this method can reduce the time by a couple weeks. The third method is to buy a bottled bacteria product and follow the instructions of the product.

The filter is important because it removes debris from the tank, provides water movement in the tank and houses some of the beneficial bacteria. Beneficial bacteria is also on any hard surfaces in your tank, such as substrate, plants and rocks.


----------



## sumthinfishy (Jan 26, 2013)

do u know anyone with an established aquarium? if yes, then ask them for one of their "dirty" filter pads or media. u can run the used media in your filter for a few days to cycle tank


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Deeda said:


> There are a couple methods to properly cycle a tank before you purchase fish. One is to set the tank up with everything but fish and run it for 4 to 6 weeks while you wait for the good bacteria to naturally populate the tank. The second method is to use the Fishless Cycling method (link in my signature) using clear household ammonia w/out surfactants, this method can reduce the time by a couple weeks. The third method is to buy a bottled bacteria product and follow the instructions of the product.
> 
> The filter is important because it removes debris from the tank, provides water movement in the tank and houses some of the beneficial bacteria. Beneficial bacteria is also on any hard surfaces in your tank, such as substrate, plants and rocks.


Hey thats some great help! Thanks soo much!


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

sumthinfishy said:


> do u know anyone with an established aquarium? if yes, then ask them for one of their "dirty" filter pads or media. u can run the used media in your filter for a few days to cycle tank


I do not but that sounds like a good idea. By the way how often do you change your filter media?


----------



## Demasoni1 (Apr 9, 2014)

Depends on stocking and how many fish, in my 160g I change the canisters out every month or so. On my 20 gallon long I have homemade filter pads and bio media that I change every 2 weeks. On my tank gallon I change it every week.


----------



## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

425SuperRocket said:


> sumthinfishy said:
> 
> 
> > do u know anyone with an established aquarium? if yes, then ask them for one of their "dirty" filter pads or media. u can run the used media in your filter for a few days to cycle tank
> ...


You don't throw out media until it's falling apart. Filter media should only be rinsed in aquarium or dechlorinated tap water and returned to the filter. This media houses bacteria responsible for eliminating toxic ammonia and nitrite. Removing or destroying the media and bacteria will cause an ammonia or nitrite spike and you may have to cycle your tank again.
Here's some helpful reading:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/cycling.php
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/f ... _cycle.php


----------



## sumthinfishy (Jan 26, 2013)

im talking about seeding the tank with media from an established system. this is common practice.


----------



## Demasoni1 (Apr 9, 2014)

When I say change I was talking about rinsing out the media. And change as needed.


----------



## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

sumthinfishy said:


> im talking about seeding the tank with media from an established system. this is common practice.


Yes, I know. I wasn't replying to your post.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

GTZ said:


> 425SuperRocket said:
> 
> 
> > sumthinfishy said:
> ...


Thank you for posting links to those articles. They are very informative. I did not know this.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Demasoni1 said:


> When I say change I was talking about rinsing out the media. And change as needed.


Okay that makes sense. You just rinse it but keep it because you need the bacteria in there. *** been running my same filter so thats good. Im going to test the water later today again.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Now since i screwed myself and did not go through the cycling process could doing daily water changes be beneficial?


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

Yes. I'd be doing 50% daily water changes. You will also want the API water test kit to monitor your water parameters.
There are also bacterial additives. I don't know how well they work though. Google that.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

So yesterday i did a water change and tested the water. My nitrite was zero so thats good but my ammonia is still high at 4ppm. My fish have stopped eating and acting slow.this morning i tested the water again and its at 8ppm!! I added ammon-lok yesterday too. Now do i keep changing water? Im getting worried.


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

Yes. I'd be doing 50% daily until the tank is cycled. What is the filtration on this tank?


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

aicardi said:


> Yes. I'd be doing 50% daily until the tank is cycled. What is the filtration on this tank?


I have the top fin 60 that came with the tank and i added a second called the aquaclear biomax. Once my tank is established ill probably take away the top fin one.


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

Looks like you are on the right path at least. All you can do is daily water changes of at least 50%. Prime is another really good additive. I wouldn't worry about them not eating right now. Once they start feeling better they'll eat. Even then I'd feed every other day for a while.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

They last ate yesterday morning. I feed them in the morning and evening so last night they werent interested. I did not feed them this morning and they are all hiding not much action in the tank. This is unlike them. Now i do not have the prime but *** heard a lot about it from researching this problem. I have top fin water conditioner i use when i change the water. Is that ok? Also after water changes should i add ammon-lok and stress zyme?? I want to take the right steps to help make my environment right for my fish.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

So im checking on my fish now and my acei cichlids bottom fin has turned white.....i am extremely worried. What does this mean?


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

425SuperRocket said:


> So im checking on my fish now and my acei cichlids bottom fin has turned white.....i am extremely worried. What does this mean?


When did you last test the water?
Any chance you can post some pictures?


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Yesterday i changed 25% of the water then did a water check. It was 4ppm. I added ammon lok too. Then this morning I did a water check and it was 8ppm. I tested the water from my sink and it read .25ppm because I wanted to make sure it wasnt crazy high. Then just now I did another water change with water conditioner and then stress zyme for the fish. The temp is 78-80 and right now they are more active than they have been in the last day in a half. Im not going to test the water til tomorrow morning so i can let it cycle overnight. I did not add ammon lok yet. Should I?? And ill try and post a picture.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)




----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Normally the fins are yellow. Today they turned white. No color change on any other fish.


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

425SuperRocket said:


> Yesterday i changed 25% of the water then did a water check. It was 4ppm.


In my opinion 25% is not nearly enough. I'd be doing 50-75%. Closer to 75%. I'm sure your fish would welcome 100% changes right now. The idea is to remove ammonia. 50% water change will remove more ammonia than a 25% change.
Get the Prime. 2 drops per gallon of water. Make sure the water temp you put in is at or close to the tank temp.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Thanks for the input!! So 50-75 percent isnt too much? Would i be taking away beneficial things in the water? Thats why *** only done 25 percent


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

If the ammonia is under 0.25 then you are okay. If it's between 0.25 & 0.5 then do 50% change. 
What are the water test now?


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

I didnt test it after the water change a few hours ago. Should i test it now or wait til tomorrow morning and let it cycle?


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

The levels of ammonia and nitrite will reach toxic levels. I'd be trying to keep ammonia at 0.25 to keep the stress on the fish to a minimum. You have to test the water to know what it is. Simple as that.
Again, I'd be doing 50% daily water changes and use Prime that will detoxify (not remove) ammonia.
This is going to take time and won't be easy. On you, or the fish.


----------



## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Seachem Prime is readily available and a good product to use during this difficult process. If your ammonia is that high I would suggest a double dose. Prime binds up ammonia and detoxifies it. It removes nitrite, nitrate, chlorine and chloramine. You still need to be doing big daily water changes though.

There are products out there that can help you, like Dr. Tim's One & Only nitrifying bacteria.

You've received a bunch of good advice so far, but none better than returning the fish. Sure you're going through this tough part with cycling the tank, but that's just the start. Your fish selection, which I'm guessing some 'fish specialist' at an LFS helped you with, is not going to work out.


----------



## hose91 (Mar 5, 2014)

Lauren, 
You've been getting some pretty good info from the folks on the forum so far. Unfortunately, your tank, and specifically the filtration system, wasn't ready for you to add fish. Now the fish are producing ammonia and there is no bacteria to convert the ammonia first to nitrite (which is even more toxic to fish) and then to nitrate (which is much less toxic but still toxic) and then the keeper removes the nitrate through water changes. The bacteria do NOT live so much in the water, but rather in the filter and in the slimy film that the rocks and substrate in get in your tank. Prime by seachem will detoxify ammonia for about 36 hours, so you should dose your tank with half a capful (for 20G) every day and a half or so. and do a 50-75% water change EVERY DAY until the bacteria in your tank can process the ammonia your fish are producing (which you will only know by testing the water). This will take around 6 weeks, ime. The ammonia consuming bacteria will generally grow fairly quickly, but I had a harder time getting the nitrite consuming strain to grow, as they are more sensitive to temperature change and high levels of nitrite, ironically enough.

Back on page 1, Deeda recommended you take your fish back and then cycle your tank (i.e. grow the bacteria you need by feeding them ammonia from a bottle you can buy online or at Ace hardware). And just above this post, Iggy recommends the same thing. Those are 2 really, really experienced fishkeepers and moderators who have no vested interest in you buying their stuff (like the fish store) and who give advice to people like you and me every day.

This is still really good advice, as your fish are telling you that they are not very happy with the water conditions you are providing them to live in, and 6 weeks of daily water changes and testing and stress (on you and the fish) isn't really the best way to enjoy fish keeping. I'll add my opinion that you should return the fish, get some ammonia (which simulates the fish and feeds the bacteria WITHOUT fish in the tank!), and then spend the time while your tank cycles thinking about and researching a good stock plan for 20G that will make for happy fish and happier Lauren in the long run (Acei are not a good choice, for instance).

This is a fantastic hobby, and I love it, but I like it less when my fish are stressed, and I like it EVEN LESS when they are stressed due to something that I could have controlled or made better. I can't speak for everyone here, but I'm pretty sure we all want you to enjoy the hobby, and I'm not sure that you are right now. Give it some thought.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

I understand what you guys are saying thats why im here trying to get some help. I did not know about the whole cycle process which really is important. I should have researched before i did this because now all *** been doing is researching this problem. Im afraid it might be too late to return my fish. I can call and ask. Youre right in saying that because its only harming the fish.


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

You may look in your area and see if there is a mom and pop shop and just donate them. I've done this more than once myself.
I'm in Chicago and we have several places that take them. May not be as easy where you are.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

I live in a very rural area. The closest pet store is 40 minutes away so makes it difficult.


----------



## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

I did the same thing as you regarding the cycling. Don't beat yourself up about it.

How far away from Chicago are you? I'm in a rural area as well, but only about 45-50 miles from the city. There are a lot of fish available from private breeders at good prices. Once you do your research and a get a larger tank, you may be able to stock it with some quality, inexpensive fish.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Iggy Newcastle said:


> I did the same thing as you regarding the cycling. Don't beat yourself up about it.
> 
> How far away from Chicago are you? I'm in a rural area as well, but only about 45-50 miles from the city. There are a lot of fish available from private breeders at good prices. Once you do your research and a get a larger tank, you may be able to stock it with some quality, inexpensive fish.


Im in paw paw, il. Its about 40 minutes south of Rockford. Itty bitty town haha. I live and work here. I go to peru or dekalb for petstores. They both have petsmarts. Yes *** done a lot more research now after having problems. I should have researched before i got the fish. But im glad i found this forum. Everyone has been helpful. And i really appreciate it. Now i just hope i didnt damage my fishies too bad.


----------



## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Paw Paw. I know it. I'm in Big Rock. You're not far.

Checkout this website- GCCA.net
Go to the classifieds. You may find some nice deals on tanks. Tons of fish on there as well.


----------



## hose91 (Mar 5, 2014)

It's definitely good news if you get hooked into the GCCA network. It seems to be really active, and a great resource, and it's pretty widespread around Chicago as best I can tell. There are several members besides Iggy who are active in the various sections of this forum. The first step is to decide whether you're going to trek back to the store with your fish and then do the fishless cycle, or if you'll make a go at what they call the "fish-in cycle".

Secondly, although Petsmart is really good at carrying lots of general fish stuff at reasonable prices, they are really not that good at live fish stock, or quality fish advice, normally. There are certainly exceptions, some stores have a really good fish manager, and some have excellent, knowledgeable employees on their payroll, but its pretty hit and miss, and I think you'll usually get better advice and probably service at a smaller local fish store (LFS). There appear to be at least two in Peru (Eddies, and Andy's). I have no idea beyond that, but I'd definitely look for some place "local" to go beyond the big box.

So, welcome to the forum, super happy to have you, and either way you choose to go, you got this! We'll help you through the fish in cycle, or if you get a fresh start with an empty (and maybe a bit larger) tank, we'll walk you through that and get you ready to stock a successful tank. In the meantime, while the fish are in your tank, your job is to do the job of the bacteria that you don't quite have yet, and get the ammonia out of the tank so the fish can breathe! Remember that ppm stands for parts per million, and its simply a concentration of ammonia in the water. What this means is that if you assume the tank is well mixed (which we do assume) then a 50% water change gets 50% of ammonia out. Your goal is to keep it below .5 ppm, or super light green. So if its 8, then a 50% gets to to 4, and a 75% would get you to 2. 75 is probably the max you should do at one time, but you could probably do 2 a day on the weekend. The good news is that you'll get super efficient at water changes! You should also try to keep a record of your tests, which will help you understand how quickly the ammonia is building up in your tank, which will help you figure out when to ease off on the water change schedule. Important to remember while you do this that the bacteria are growing in your filter and on your substrate and decorations and such. Bacteria do NOT like chlorine any more than your fish do, so don't forget to put in your water conditioner (again, Seachem's Prime is a solid product, but if you have a bottle of something else, that's ok too, as long as it detoxifies ammonia and dechlorinates). I would also not touch your filter during this time, as it can only really disturb the bacteria growth. If it looks really nasty, you can rinse it in tank water you've drained during one of your water changes, but I don't think your bio load will cause that in the short term.

Lastly, either way, you could also look at bacteria in a bottle. Dr. Tim's one and only is one such product, and Tetra Safestart is another. These have the 2 types of bacteria in them, so you don't have to wait so long for them to naturally colonize your tank if you put this product into the tank. Read the directions carefully though, and realize that no matter what the bottle says, the only way to know your tank is really cycled is if your tests consistently read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and some positive orange value for your nitrates (like over a 2-3 day period). Then you know that ammonia is being processed through nitrites and into nitrates fast enough to keep up with the ammonia production of your fish, which is obviously not happening now.

Hang in there!


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Iggy Newcastle said:


> Paw Paw. I know it. I'm in Big Rock. You're not far.
> 
> Checkout this website- GCCA.net
> Go to the classifieds. You may find some nice deals on tanks. Tons of fish on there as well.


Youre in Big Rock?! Wow. What are the odds of that. i used to work there and moved out to Paw Paw. Small world.

Im at the website now. Pretty cool they have basically a local cichlid site! Thanks!


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

hose91 said:


> It's definitely good news if you get hooked into the GCCA network. It seems to be really active, and a great resource, and it's pretty widespread around Chicago as best I can tell. There are several members besides Iggy who are active in the various sections of this forum. The first step is to decide whether you're going to trek back to the store with your fish and then do the fishless cycle, or if you'll make a go at what they call the "fish-in cycle".
> 
> Secondly, although Petsmart is really good at carrying lots of general fish stuff at reasonable prices, they are really not that good at live fish stock, or quality fish advice, normally. There are certainly exceptions, some stores have a really good fish manager, and some have excellent, knowledgeable employees on their payroll, but its pretty hit and miss, and I think you'll usually get better advice and probably service at a smaller local fish store (LFS). There appear to be at least two in Peru (Eddies, and Andy's). I have no idea beyond that, but I'd definitely look for some place "local" to go beyond the big box.
> 
> ...


Well from the advice im getting it seems it would be better to take them back to the store because otherwise they are going through a lot of harm which might affect their whole lives if they do survive. Id rather keep em alive then have them in my crappy water.

And i hear yah on the petstores. They did not tell me anything about the cycle process. Im glad i found this forum to help me from killing my fish!! Haha

Thanks for all your advice. This time around im gonna do this the right way so i can have a successful tank for my fish. I got this tank for my birthday so i might still want to use it. I have to see what for now. I like the cichlids because they have such personality. But im gonna check out that website Iggy told me about for maybe a bigger tank.


----------



## hose91 (Mar 5, 2014)

Yes, taking them back would definitely be better, but it wasn't clear whether or not that was an option and it's your decision, which I would respect either way. If so, then getting a fresh start with an empty, cycled tank and then putting a well thought out stock mix into it is the way to go for a successful and enjoyable tank/experience.

That size is actually pretty awesome for a Tanganyikan tank with a colony of shell dwellers in it. You can search this site for "shellies" or google it and you'll get plenty of results/images. They aren't as colorful as Mbuna or Malawi Haps/Peacocks, but they're gorgeous with subtle coloring, and their behavior/interaction is definitely on par or better than Malawi cichlids. 20G is certainly limiting in some ways, but there are some really cool options out there. Keep posting, and ask questions if you have them or do a search on this forum, there is a ton of good information buried in the archives here. If you want to go Malawi fish, you'll find that a 48" tank is probably the minimum, which means 55 gallon or bigger. They need lots of floor space, and don't keep as well in anything shorter, in general (though it's been done successfully, for sure).


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

I just got off the phone with petsmart and they will not take my fish back because its been over 2 weeks and i explained to them the situation and they didnt seem to care....so great..


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Is there a way i can post them on classifieds to find a good home for them?


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

Would they not even let you donate/give them to them?


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

425SuperRocket said:


> Is there a way i can post them on classifieds to find a good home for them?


craigslist might work.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

aicardi said:


> Would they not even let you donate/give them to them?


That's how I mentioned it. I don't care about return or store credit I just don't want them to be living in high ammonia because I did not know about the cycle process. It's just one of those pet stores that don't care. Okay I'll try craigslist thanks


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

425SuperRocket said:


> aicardi said:
> 
> 
> > Would they not even let you donate/give them to them?
> ...


No, they don't care. In the meantime just do those water changes.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Okay im going to drive out to get somethings for my fish since i cant return them. Now im going to be doing more water changes. Recommendations please. I will get what i need to hopefully make this process less harmful...


----------



## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

425SuperRocket said:


> Okay im going to drive out to get somethings for my fish since i cant return them. Now im going to be doing more water changes. Recommendations please. I will get what i need to hopefully make this process less harmful...


Large bottle of Prime.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

Okay ill grab some of that. Is that the water conditioner for when i do water changes? Also should i get stress zyme or stress coat?


----------



## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Petco will take them as donation. Aquarium Adventure in Bolingbrook will take them as a donation as well. Probably about an hour ride for you.


----------



## sumthinfishy (Jan 26, 2013)

put on cl for free. they will go quick.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

While i wait im still going to take care of the water. Now i bought some prime yesterday and did a 50% water change and added prime. This morning it lowered to 4ppm!! Boo yah!! Okay i also bought tetra safestart. Do i also add that? I researched that prime and safestart conflict eachother. Let me know. Thanks guys!!


----------



## hose91 (Mar 5, 2014)

Nice! Not super familiar with Safestart particulars. I think I'd do a couple more 50-60% water changes (with like 12 hours between them) to get the ammonia down to 1 or less (using prime at each change). Then I'd use the safestart following the directions on the bottle carefully. Chlorine will kill the bacteria, thus the prime.

It's probably too late, but I use an Aqueon water changer that attaches to my faucet. It uses tap water running through it to create a vacuum to remove water, then you can flip the valve and the tap water is sent to your tank. Makes water changes easier and faster, but for a 20G tank it may not make much of a difference.


----------



## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

> Nice! Not super familiar with Safestart particulars. I think I'd do a couple more 50-60% water changes (with like 12 hours between them) to get the ammonia down to 1 or less (using prime at each change). Then I'd use the safestart following the directions on the bottle carefully.


+1


----------



## OllieNZ (Apr 18, 2014)

425SuperRocket said:


> Thanks for the input!! So 50-75 percent isnt too much? Would i be taking away beneficial things in the water? Thats why I've only done 25 percent


There is nothing beneficial in the water. The bacteria lives on surfaces. The more water you change the better, the only thing you're getting rid of is waste, you just need to make sure you get the water temperature close


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

hose91 said:


> Nice! Not super familiar with Safestart particulars. I think I'd do a couple more 50-60% water changes (with like 12 hours between them) to get the ammonia down to 1 or less (using prime at each change). Then I'd use the safestart following the directions on the bottle carefully. Chlorine will kill the bacteria, thus the prime.
> 
> It's probably too late, but I use an Aqueon water changer that attaches to my faucet. It uses tap water running through it to create a vacuum to remove water, then you can flip the valve and the tap water is sent to your tank. Makes water changes easier and faster, but for a 20G tank it may not make much of a difference.


Okay sounds good. Yeah i plan on doing 50 percent water changes everyday now and using the prime. I finally noticed a drop in ammonia so im happy about that. And my fish are a lot more active now so thats good.

That hose idea sounds so nice. I have a siphon pump i use and then fill up a bunch of pots and walk back and forth dumping and filling the pots. Haha its a pain but its no big deal.


----------



## 425SuperRocket (May 18, 2014)

OllieNZ said:


> 425SuperRocket said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the input!! So 50-75 percent isnt too much? Would i be taking away beneficial things in the water? Thats why I've only done 25 percent
> ...


Okay thanks. Makes me feel better about doing insane amounts of water changes. Yeah its tough keeping the temps the same at first but im starting to master that part haha


----------



## nackyy20 (May 23, 2014)

I used top fin water conditioner when I set it up. Then 7 days later got 2 more fish to complete my tank. This week I got my test kit in the mail which is the API master kit.


----------



## Demasoni1 (Apr 9, 2014)

25% weekly is a good place to start.


----------

