# Who has built a Stand & Canopy?



## CLYDEDOGG (Jan 4, 2009)

So I am going to be getting a 180gallon tank as soon as I figure out a filtration system. I have been pricing the stands and canopies for this size and they seem to be anywhere from $1000 for pine to $1500+ for oak, etc. They all seem to 'look' pretty nice.

I am thinking about building my own. I want a nice piece, not going the 'cheapest way possible' if you know what I mean. My question is do you think I could do it cheaper than the prices above and come out with a nice quality piece?

I have done some searching around for plans and there are what seem to be 100's of plans. For those that have built them and been happy with he results, can you tell me what plans you used, your cost, how you liked the finished product (picture if you have one), and if there is anything you would change or do different.

Some standard measurements like stud/support spacing, wood thickness, the best hinges, the best finishing to use, etc.

thanks!!!!!!!!!


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## Murky (Jun 13, 2007)

I recently built a stand for a 48"x18" footprint tank It's in the process of being stained and finished at the moment. In my humble opinion the 'nicest' stands use furniture grade plywood and are trimmed with some type of hardwood or whatever wood you want for that matter, and you can also do a nice face-frame out of regular board stock in whatever wood you choose.

90% of the plans I've seen for tank stands include using 2x4's or other framing lumber. and have about 300% more wood than needed. Personally I steer clear of 2x4's and 2x6's IMO there is nothing they can do that plywood can't do just as well if not better. and half the time they are sopping wet and when you move the piece to your home it will twist and warp. I'm sure there are many people who have used 2x4's or whatever and are happy with the results, I just choose not to.

To answer your question directly. yes I think you can build something very nice for cheaper if you already have all the tooling you need.

I like hinges that are concealed when you close the cabinet doors. like the ones you probably have in your kitchen cabinets.

wood wouldn't have to be thicker than 3/4". and the really nice plywood is going to be quite expensive, so you can always use cheaper plywood for the structure and put the nice plywood (which could then be a lot thinner and cheaper) over the top for the cosmetics.

this is the stand I'm working on. I'd post more pics but frankly I'm embarrassed how crappy my stain job looks at the moment. but from this pic you can see the plywood construction. it has an open face design to accommodate a large sump underneath the cabinet. the doors are not on yet. and false 'column' caps on the corners to conceal the plywood joints underneath that were glued and screwed together.


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## Steve St.Laurent (Oct 2, 2008)

I bought a stand from a company that sells them on eBay. They come unfinished and unassembled. Looks like a 72x24 (which I think is probably the size of your 180 tank) costs $400 shipped and the canopy is $300. When I looked into it I could buy theirs for just a little over the cost of the wood locally. Here's the 72x24 stand - http://cgi.ebay.com/Aquarium-Stand-Oak- ... 1|294%3A50 . I've been VERY happy with the one I purchased - it was for my 90 gallon. It took about an hour to assemble and then I stained and coated it with poly. They had it finish sanded and all, I just had to blow the dust off.


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## CLYDEDOGG (Jan 4, 2009)

thank you both for the replies!! No need to be embarrassed about the stain job, haha!!! it all looks good when its done, been there!!! Looks good from here so far!!

Steve St. Laurent:

Wow, those look pretty nice!! Kinda weird on their prices though. For a canopy its $300, stand is $400, but if you order a combo with both tank and stand its $890!! Hahaha!!!

How do you like that tall canopy? Is it easy to do water changes and gravel vac going through the doors? I was thinking that half of the actualy top lifted up, but its actually four doors and then the very top of the entire lid lifts up. Anything you dont like about the stand or canopy?

The only thing I see with the four door set up is it might be difficult to get a tank in there for a sump system if I decide to go that route. A three door set up I saw had wider doors obviously.

Are these pieces as 'beefy' and heavy duty as they say in their description? Once you had it all together was it wobbly at all or shaky or is it nice and solid? Plenty of supports in the stand?

Last thing, can you post or email me some pictures of yours all set up and stained? Maybe underneath and in the canopy to get a better idea of how much room is under there?

And its all OAK, not some veneer stuff right? Probably REALLY heavy!!!!

anything you dont like about it?

This would definatly save some time and it doesnt look 'cheap'.

Thanks man!!!!!!!!


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## Steve St.Laurent (Oct 2, 2008)

I can take some pictures for you tomorrow. Yes, it is as heavy duty as they say - not wobbly in the least, extremely well built stand. I don't have their canopy, I just went with the stand. I have a JBJ lighting system that can't go inside a canopy so I can't help you with that. I did see that they had a couple different canopy's in that size so you might look at the different ones - one was $300 and one was $350. It isn't all oak - it is veneered high quality plywood. I've used plywood just like they use to build poker tables and it's very good stuff. Once it's together you'd never know it - the doors and the trim is all oak.

I put a 15 gallon long sump into my 18x48 stand. The braces on the back can be removed and you can put a large sump in from the back and then put the braces on. You could contact them - I think I saw something about them being able to change things for you if you want. Nothing I don't like about mine - I'd buy one again if I were to do it over again.


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## CLYDEDOGG (Jan 4, 2009)

okay cool. Do you know the difference between veneer and solid wood? I just am a little worried because the stand I have now the wood (just like particle board or something, its a cheapie) 'covering' is starting to peel up do to moisture. I assumed that is what veneer was.

I just dont want to spend money on something and have it start peeling up, ya know? I'll send those guys and email and see if they have different styles, etc.

thanks for all the info and I look forward to the pictures!!!!!

Now that I think about it and looked at some links I saved, some of the expensive stands I have looked at say they have 'veneer' in or on them. Hmmmm. interesting. maybe nothing is truely 'solid' oak, etc?


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## becikeja (Oct 14, 2007)

Clydedogg. If you want quality, don't even think about buying one. To buy one of high quality you pay through the nose, and in the end you will have a stand designed to meet the needs of someone else. I designed and built one myself: Here is a link to see it. [/url]http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=185784
I am very happy with the results....the stand let me know. I'll be glad to help.


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## Mcdaphnia (Dec 16, 2003)

One easy way. I screwed a piece of plywood to the ceiling. Then finish nailed plywood exterior siding to the tank stand and the ceiling plywood. Hung the lights from the ceiling piece and had a unitized stand/canopy that gave an "in the wall" appearance.


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## Charlutz (Mar 13, 2006)

Have you done a search for "stand" and "canopy" in this forum?


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## Steve St.Laurent (Oct 2, 2008)

Here's the pics I promised. To get a solid oak piece would cost you a fortune. What you are talking about that you have experience with is a particle board laminate. These are made of plywood which is pieces of solid wood sandwiched with particles. The plywood they use is a 9 layer plywood and then the laminate on both sides. If you have a Lowes in your area go in there and look at their oak laminate plywood and you'll see the kind of material they use. once it is bolted together and on your floor the only place on the entire piece that you can see the plies is on the back side and on the underside of the cross piece at the top - all other sides are covered. I used stain and then polyurethane over that which seals the wood. Mine has been setup for 3 months and has had quite a bit of water on it (I had problems with my overflow bulkheads cracking and leaking at first - changed brands) and none of it seperated or warped in any way. If you want any other close up photos let me know what you want a pic of and I'll take it.

BTW, the inside of the stand I didn't stain (I did polyurethane it) because I wanted it to be as bright in there as possible for working in there.


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## mithesaint (Oct 31, 2006)

Not sure if you're still interested in the DIY route or not, but thought I'd link my thread and see if that helped you any.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... highlight=

I know I have less than $200 in it, and it might be less than $150. I never really kept track, but costs weren't too bad. The doors were $25 a piece, and less ornamental moulding would have cut a lot of costs.

Construction details are in the link. Let me know if you want more info.


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## boredatwork (Sep 14, 2007)

I can dig up pictures of my stand/canopy DIY. But I spent over a grand on it so I am guessing it won't be of any interest. Originally I was trying to make a cheap version of a "nice" stand, but as stated, furniture grade materials can easily jack up the price. Apparently.


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## zekester (Dec 9, 2006)

I hope this link works to my old post.

Oak 120 gallon stand and stained pine 75 gallon stand.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... highlight=


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## D-007 (Jan 3, 2008)

zekester said:


> I hope this link works to my old post.
> 
> Oak 120 gallon stand and stained pine 75 gallon stand.
> 
> http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... highlight=


 :drooling: :drooling: :drooling: bloody awsome stands !!


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## Hoosier Tank (May 8, 2007)

Here is my 180 build thread. About the bottom of the first page is when I started on the stand.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=169505


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