# dither fish



## tylersweeney22

what makes good dither fish. im not that familer with them. i have a jag, texas, and a red devil. in my big tank. then in my little tank i have 3 tinfoil barbs would these make good dither fish


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## oldcatfish

Tinfoil barbs would make great dithers---if your tank is huge.

To successfully keep dither fish, you need to keep then in a school large enough so that an aggressive cichlid can't pick out a single fish (that's usually at least 6). They also need enough swimming room to use their superior speed. And finally they need to be outgoing enough not to be easily intimidated by an aggressive cichlid, as well as large enough not to be eaten.

Tinfoil barbs meet all the requirements...but your tank probably doesn't. Tinfoil barbs will reach over a foot, not counting the tail fin.


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## mr.dark-saint

I for see a dead Texas, dead Tinfoil then even odds on the Jag and the Red Devil. Unless the Red Devil is larger then The Red devil will be the only fish in that tank.


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## bernie comeau

Basically, all fish in a community tank are tankmates. "Dither fish" and "targetfish" are roles or functions ------ and ALL tankmates perform theses roles or functions to varrying extents. Though some fish do a better job of peforming one or both of these roles.

The dither role is to make other tankmates feel comfortable in the tank ------ that is, not scared and hiding all the time; not too shy. As long as there are enough tankmates, most CA will feel comfortable and be very outgoing. Some view "dither fish" as only schooling fish, though many fish that are called "dither fish", for example sword tails, don't usually form a school and swim around the tank as a group.

"Targetfish" is a very important role when housing aggressive cichlids together in a community tank. You need suffecient tankmates to spread and dissipate aggression. Too few, and you'll end up with a "wet pet" rather quickly. Problem with most fishes called "ditherfish" is that they don't work well as targets, they simply don't count, and are ignored for the most part. Then when a little attention is placed apon them they get killed with one little bite. IMO, seldom do tetras, danios or livebearers last long with aggressive CA/SA. Adding some more large growing territorial cichlids can create even more aggression problems in the long run, unless you got a huge tank. This leaves 2 options, IMO, for increasing the amount of targets: small, tough cichlids that can live well as subordinates ( eg. convicts, mbuna) or large growing, tough non-cichlids.

Tinfoil barbs are a good choice because they are sturdy and can divert some of a cichlids aggression but are often a little too big for most tanks. One of the big box stores often has red tailed tinfoil barbs for sale. It is a smaller growing species ( around 8") and the adults have red on both the dorsal and the tail. Problem is they are hard to differentiate as juveniles and you can't really be too sure what your getting at an LFS.


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## PfunMo

I have a somewhat uncool approach to dither fish. I find I need them for various duties. Sometimes to intertain my "real" fish, sometimes to distract them from pursueing my other "real" fish. As such I find they may be victims and I have to consider them somewhat expendable. Like one step above feeder fish. I prefer they not get beaten up but it happens. I find they need to be cheap and readily available. I find the schooling fish seem to work better for me. Fast darters that are constantly on the move present a moving target so that the same fish will not get hit as often. Barbs and tetras work for me. Wish they were more suited for hard water but they seems to tolerate it. I have a 4m -1 F yellow lab group and the herd of 5 tetras roaming around seemed to level out the aggression. Kind of like five kids running through the bedroom????


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## George Walker

At one point in my Mbuna tank I had 2 Sd's and 5 tinfoils. They all perished due to the african agression that is characteristic to that species.. I never felt in my SA/ Ca tanks that I've had in the past, that I needed dither fish. The shear patience of watching the larger SA/CA grow in the right environment didn't warrant dithers. Hence the statement mbunas need overcrowding to stem agression. SA/ CA need the right combo to stem aggression. But that's one opinion. Also lighting in a freshwater tank is just as important as lighting in a saltwater tank. I have both!!!! This is another agression stopper, if water parameters and feeding schedules are adherred to.Thanks for your time, and positive reply's.


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## phxl

Hope you don't mind if I throw my own question out here, it is on topic.

I added 3 silver dollars to my tank. I have a 9" Oscar that I have yet to see pay any mind to them, although a week after adding them one vanished. From what I have read since, I need at least 5 SDs to school and feel comfortable. Up to this point, the 3 (and then 2) have been playing more of a timid role... Often seperate from each other. Will increasing their number help them feel safe enough to roam and possibly discourage the Oscar from snacking on them?


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## George Walker

My gut feeling would be if you had SD'S about half the size of the O, schooling,it shouldn't be a problem. But I would introduce an Oscar,JackDempsey,or Firemouth together in a large tank as juveniles, and let them grow. I've done it . Three fish of such agression is easy. Much easier then Africans , which is what I have now. Forget the dithers and raise the fish you want !!!


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## overland_kid

So if you put the Oscar, Jack Dempsey, and the Firemouth in together as juveniles, there's a chance they will get along when adults?


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## georgiasam

Giant Danios worked wonders for my tank. 8 of my Africans opened right up and no longer fight over their little safe spot. A complete 180 change in behavior


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