# Canister filter setup



## nolajeff (Feb 16, 2016)

Recently I changed one of my hob filters to a marineland 160 and I'm curious about the carbon in there. Is it needed it since my hob that I am running in it has carbon in it and if I don't what would be a good replacement for it? Right now the order is corse pads, carbon with the last tray containing bio balls with filter floss on top of them like I got it. Is there a more beneficial order I could be using or is this the best setup? Thanks for your help.


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## Granamyr (Dec 16, 2015)

I think this is a very good video about filling a canister filter properly


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## nolajeff (Feb 16, 2016)

Very informative thanks!


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

Everyone has their own opinion on how to fill a canister but the guy in the video really doesn't understand filtration.

1. the gap on the bottom underneath the baskets is intentionally left open so that the water distributes evenly across the bottom before rising up through the baskets. Putting media on the bottom is a bad idea for two reasons. The water will just go over top of the media rather than through it if you leave a gap in there or it will create so much resistance that the water just rises up through the basket closest to the downpipe instead of spreading across the whole basket. Also, as he says himself, the muck will settle out at the bottom, now when you clean it you have to separate the muck from the media when you clean the canister. Whereas before you could just dump out the canister and give it a quick rinse.

2. He mentions that the fine media should be at the bottom and the other media on top. Specifically to trap the fine particles from clogging the pores of the biological media. Problem with that is that the "fine" particles are not actually being forced into/through the pores of the biological media. The pores in the media increase surface area for bacteria to grow or allow for channels for compounds to travel into to be bonded in the case of chemical medias like carbon. Anything that can travel into a pore in a biological media or carbon is going to be so small that it would pass through any foam or nonwoven pad anyways. What clogs pores is the actual bacterial growth of the bacteria that will grow in the pores. This will happen no matter where the biological media is placed. Placing media in the canister with the coarsest material at the bottom and the finest material at the top will trap the particles in successive reducing sizes. This will make it the most efficient and take the longest to go before clogging. This is how it is done in all forms of wastewater treatment on larger scales and the principles are the same for small scale aquariums.

If you were to use water quality as your method of quantification you would probably not see any difference in setting up the canister either way. But if you add in time it takes to clean the canister and frequency of required cleanings you will see that the fine filtration at the end will be much less work and more efficient.

Andy


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## nolajeff (Feb 16, 2016)

Which brings me back to my original question of is the carbon needed since I also run a hob or would it be better to add media in that slot?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I don't think you ever need carbon unless you are removing medication. I always put it in storage when I buy a new filter.


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## smitty (May 7, 2004)

DJRansome: I second that and if I do want to remove meds I do a water change.


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## nolajeff (Feb 16, 2016)

So would something like matrix be a good alternative for that spot or just add more bio balls?


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## Narwhal72 (Sep 26, 2006)

I would generally add more bio balls or a really coarse foam block (10 ppi foam).

I do use a lot of carbon. But that is because I have a lot of driftwood in my tanks and it helps remove the tannins from the water.

Andy


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## Granamyr (Dec 16, 2015)

I forgot he put media in the bottom of the filter on that video. Do not do that, that would make it a pain to clean and could potentially back up the flow for the filter if too much debris got in that spot.

I like what he said about the rest though because you don't want the bigger particles getting to your biological areas and clog the pores of the media from allowing the water to flow over the beneficial bacteria in the media


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## nolajeff (Feb 16, 2016)

Thanks for the responses guys! I will probably just add bio balls in that spot and eliminate the carbon.


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## SrsSarcasM (Jan 28, 2016)

I like ceramic noodles more than bioballs. Unless you get very small bioballs they aren't as effective for surface area and if you are in a canister then surface area is limited.

I agree with others, carbon is not necessary unless specifically removing chemicals from the water.


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## Fish Jerk (Mar 9, 2016)

SrsSarcasM said:


> I like ceramic noodles more than bioballs. Unless you get very small bioballs they aren't as effective for surface area and if you are in a canister then surface area is limited.
> 
> I agree with others, carbon is not necessary unless specifically removing chemicals from the water.


Do you have a preferred brand? I need to get some biomedia myself and want to get the smallest possible.


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## nolajeff (Feb 16, 2016)

So if I went with Matrix and ceramic noodles what should I put first? Or does it not matter?


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## Aquariguns (Jan 15, 2015)

you can mix them together really doesn't matter what order for those if you stacking multiples.


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## Fish Jerk (Mar 9, 2016)

http://www.manyhatsofme.com/2014/02/diy ... -step.html



















Check out this kaldnes filter. Site makes an interesting case for using kaldnes media instead of ceramic, and a cheap version could be made for about 5 bucks if you already have an air pump and airstone.


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