# Gary needs help!



## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Hello all!

Short story is I inadvertently adopted a cichlid...I took a job and he was left behind by the outgoing employee. I've never really thought about keeping an aquarium but, if we're going to be sharing an office, I figured he should at least be comfortable. I've never had a fish before though, so I need some help. Here's what I know:

He's a cichlid. I managed this because his food is cichlid specific. (Hikari Cichlid Gold)
He's currently in a 10 gallon (20x10x12) all glass tank.
He currently has rocks for a base with some plastic plants, a small structure that he no longer fits in, and a floating plastic jelly fish.
Whisper 10 in-tank filter
Whisper 10 air pump

So there is no heater, but because of the room temperature, his water is a constant 84F. I have a visiterm VTE50 here if it gets cold. Noone has really been looking after him, but they've occasionally fed him. When I got here, the tank was pretty filthy. I don't know if it has been cleaned at all prior to me. There also is no light for him besides the overhead lights in the office, and the air hose was just floating on top with no stone.

SO!!! I've so far started to clean the tank and I've added an uxcell bubble wall stone the full length of the back of the tank. I put a thermometer in there so I could see what the water temp was doing, and I had to add about 2 gallons of water when I got here as he was low on water.

I've been reading online and it says that he needs places to hide and he needs to be overfiltered. So...questions...

1) He's currently solo in a ten gallon tank. Is he okay in there by himself? Does he need a bigger tank, or maybe a friend?

2) What kind of cichlid is he? (pics below)

3) I am looking to pull out the large gravel and add cichlid substrate rift lake sand. Is there any reason not to do this?

4) Is the bubbler too much? Should I go with a smaller stone?

5) I am looking to change the water filter. Here are some recommended options I was reading about: http://homeaquaria.com/freshwater-aquarium-filtration-systems/ Does anyone have a specific recommendation, and what size should I go with for this 10 gallon tank? What if I were to upgrade to a 20 gal acrylic?

6) What kind of live algae/grass do these guys like?

7) I'm looking at the Underwater Galleries cichlid stone packs and adding a flourescent hood light for him. Any other suggestions?

8) Are UV filters useful/worth it?

Thank you guys, pics below.



http://imgur.com/5nJeF




http://imgur.com/5RC38




http://imgur.com/yAzat


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

You need to upload pics to a photo hosting website before posting them, check the Posting Pics link in my signature for instructions.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Yeah, I tried that and it didn't work. If you click in on the links, it will load the images on imgur. Thanks


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

OK, your links work now for me!

Your fish is an African Malawi Mbuna but I can't help with the specific species. The 10G tank will not allow you to add any other cichlids with him/her and it may eat or kill any smaller fish that you add. Upgrading to a larger tank would be nice but stocking multiple Malawi cichlids (depending on species) would require a tank with a minimum footprint of 36" long x 12" wide.

I like the idea of switching to sand for a substrate, the fish would enjoy it more, it's easier to keep clean and uneaten food won't get trapped in it.

I wouldn't bother with a UV unit.

I would also hold off on buying any more equipment until you decide what you are planning on keeping long term and if you decide to upgrade to a larger tank.

I would also remove the uneaten food I see in the full tank shot photo. The fish should be fine being fed 2 or 3 pellets once or twice daily so you may want to designate 1 person to care for the tank. The problem with community office tanks is that people often have their own ideas for adding fish and caring for them.

What type of water are you adding to the tank, tap water or bottled? Are you using a water conditioner that will treat any chlorine or chloramine in tap water?


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Thanks for the reply!

It's not so much a communal office tank...it's my personal tank at this point, it's just that there was a 6 month gap between hires, so someone took pity on Gary and would occasionally feed him. I'll be the full time caretaker moving forward.

I'm currently filling with tap water and using a conditioner called Aqua Plus by Nutrafin. I was going to buy spring water in the future.

Thank you for the advice on feeding, I am waiting on a net but will give him less in the future. I've also been advised that he may like sinking pellets instead.

I have to swap out the filter...this one has very little flow despite cleaning it and changing the medium.


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## mark_j (Jul 15, 2016)

garythefish said:


> I'm currently filling with tap water and using a conditioner called Aqua Plus by Nutrafin. I was going to buy spring water in the future


Unless your tap water is very poor quality, I don't think spring water is necessary. Just continue to use your conditioner when you add water.

Edit: I also noticed your food comment. My cichlids definitely enjoy sinking pellets more than floating food, but I would not use sinking pellets with gravel because it will sink into the substrate if the fish does not catch it before it hits the bottom. Sinking pellets with sand is cool because cichlids will sift through the sand for food (at least my peacock cichlids do). Fun to watch.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Don't use the spring water as it won't have the minerals needed for fish health. Use tap water and the conditioner you have.

I like the Aquaclear power filter which is a hang on the back of the tank type filter. It comes with a sponge filter which provides both mechanical and bio filtration and you won't have to buy replacement filter media regularly. I would choose the AC 50 myself but you could also try the AC30 instead. I wouldn't get the smaller models. Even though you have a 10G tank, the larger filter should do a good job of filtering and increasing water circulation.

I do like the sinking pellets better, you can wait until you're almost out of food but try and feed the new and old food at the same time to be sure he accepts the sinking pellets.

Do you have a pet shop or fish store near you that can test your aquarium water? If so, I highly recommend you take a sample in to see what the results are for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH at a minimum. Aquariums that haven't been maintained regularly can see elevated levels in those parameters and suddenly cleaning the tank, changing water, etc. can stress the fish and potentially kill them. You can use a well rinsed out glass jar or spring water bottle to take a sample into the store.


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

Also Hikari Cichlid Gold is not a good food for an Mbuna (which is what you have). You will need a food higher is vegetable matter.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Thank you guys! I'm going to order the aquaclear 50. Can you recommend a higher quality food that sinks? You guys are rockstars! Not sure about water testing...I'll have to see about pet stores close by.

Thanks!


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## mark_j (Jul 15, 2016)

garythefish said:


> Thank you guys! I'm going to order the aquaclear 50. Can you recommend a higher quality food that sinks? You guys are rockstars! Not sure about water testing...I'll have to see about pet stores close by.
> 
> Thanks!


I use New Life Spectrum (NLS) Cichlid Formula 1mm Sinking Pellets. The fish go nuts for it. BUT, the pellets are small and they will get caught in gravel, so I only recommend with sand. There are a lot of opinions about which food is best, though, so only speaking from personal experience.


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## tanker3 (May 18, 2015)

I too use NLS. My pellets never sink more them 3-4 inches before they are gone.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Awesome. Found a guy to do water testing next week. Last question...Underwater Galleries Cichlid Stones. Yay or nay?

https://www.amazon.com/Underwater-Galle ... lid+stones


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Don't swap out the filter unless retain the media...that is where all the beneficial bacteria live.

I would not invest in this tank since it is not a good size for even one mbuna and he seems OK with what he's got unless a new tank and tank mates are in his future.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

I kinda have to switch the filter...the current one is barely flowing and does not appear to be user serviceable. I was thinking of switching rocks since he has no real place to hide, and all the stuff I ordered can be moved to a new tank down the road.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Your tank will be filled with fish-killing toxins if you remove the beneficial bacteria and they take six weeks to regrow (without fish in the tank).

See if you can remove the media in the current filter and use it in the new filter.

He has the plants (I looked at the picture) and without tank mates...he does not have too much reason to hide anyway. I would not change the décor until/unless you are ready for a 55G tank. The décor also has beneficial bacteria growing on it.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

I prefer the look of real rocks that can be stacked and can be had at a much cheaper price. Sometimes the problem with the prefab ones is the fish can't turn around inside and gets stuck, especially with adult fish.

If you do buy a new filter, just leave the old one running in the tank for a few weeks until the beneficial bacteria and build up in the new filter or you can put the media from the old filter in the new filter if it fits.

What would be the largest aquarium your office will let you have?


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

I don't have anything to add that the guys haven't already addressed but, I do like your attitude and if you are anywhere near Scarborough Ont. 
Shoot me a pm and I'll give you a 40g long tank to kick start you and Gary's new life together.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Okay that was my next question was if I can just run both until the new one grows, so I will do that, thanks!

As to size....I mean...I guess there really isn't a limit to what size tank I could have. I have the office to myself, and I work in the maritime industry, so I could probably go really big if I wanted to. I just feel bad for the little guy...he's been really shy but I talk to him a bit when I come and go and he's hanging out more now. How long do these things live? Given he's been isolated for so long, would he not socialize well at this point?

And thank you for the tank offer! I'm a bit far from you, but I definitely appreciate it! Used glass tanks here are about $1/gal, so I could go up in size pretty easily, but I don't want to get too carried away and kill him by accident, so I figured I'd make him comfortable in this tank and then figure out the next step.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

The average is 8 years. How long has he been in the tank? Yes he could have socialization problems.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Somewhere between 2 and 5 years.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

http://imgur.com/biHe5












http://imgur.com/KWod3


Zebra cichlid, or Metriaclima estherae, is what I come up with. I originally thought Cobalt Blue, but then I read about the faint vertical lines, which he has.

I found a guy on CL with a 50gal that's 52x38. Would this be a good tank to upsize and add some friends?


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

Centimeters or inches? If it is centimeters...I would not bother, keep what you have and don't add fish.

He does look a bit like Metriaclima callainos, try a post in Unidentified. You may never know for sure. How big is he?


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Inches....50 gallon tank.

He's about 3.5 inches long


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Metriaclima callainos lacks the faint striping. That's the cobalt one I mentioned.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I'm confused...a tank that is 52" x 38"...even if it was only 12" deep (which is a short tank) would be over 100 gallons.

Callainos can have slight barring. Malawi have many moods and colorations...even in the same individual.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

I'm confused too. Trying to find a tape measure now to figure out what I just bought. Stand by...


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Okay. So...Actual new tank dimensions (interior) are 37" x 18" x 19" which maths at 55 gal slam full.

Here's a link to pic...


http://imgur.com/hUHso


So 55 gal tank with homebuilt pine frame and cedar planking, some fake grass, a Aqueon QuietFlow 50 and extra filters for it for a cool fifty bones.

Now i have no idea what to do next. :lol:


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Nice pick up on the tank and filters!!!! Since it is a used tank, I recommend test filling it with water outside just to verify it holds water and I like to leave it for a couple days when I test used tanks.

Now that we got you to get another tank =D> , I hope you're looking forward to enjoying the hobby!


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

I would not put Metriaclima (with other fish) in a 37" tank. You want one that is 48" long at least.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

My thoughts exactly on filling it outside! I'll be doing that tomorrow and letting it ride for a few days to make sure it's all set. I'll probably beef up the stand too, as it's built with 2x3" pine under the cedar. I was also thinking of putting a solid piece of plywood under the tank to add support, since it's 400 pounds before I add anything to the tank. I'll also put a shelf in there to hold supplies, and I may stain the wood...not sure yet. Mostly now I'm reading up on cycling and all those cool concrete/foam 3d backgrounds in the setup forums.

Thank you guys for the help!


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

DJRansome said:


> I would not put Metriaclima (with other fish) in a 37" tank. You want one that is 48" long at least.


Hmmm okay. So there is absolutely nothing he would be compatible with? If I put him in the bigger tank, will he get bigger or stay the same size?


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

You may also want to consider enlarging the door opening on that stand if it's possible, it appears to be a bit small to me, especially if you should decide to buy a canister filter. I find that the older I get, better access to the stand area is important.

You could also post some interior photos of the stand when you get a chance to show the construction of the unit, especially if it was a home made one.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Yep that was on my list too! Definitely too small. It's dark out, but I'll get some more pics up tomorrow of the stand. It's a pretty simple deal for sure.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

If you get a 48 x 12 tank (standard 55G rectangle) you could stock the tank with 3 species of mbuna with one of them being Metriaclima callainos (or whatever species he is) and two others (carefully selected for tank size and compatibility with his species). 1m:4f of each species. Post his pic in Unidentified to see what the experts think he is.

55G is very common and should be readily available on CL.

A 37" tank is not enough room for the species Metriaclima so you would not want to add any tank mates at all if you buy that tank.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Can you explain the 1m:4f rule you referenced? I'm not following you when you say that you can get 3 species in a 48" tank but not even a second fish in 37"...

Thanks


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## mark_j (Jul 15, 2016)

garythefish said:


> Can you explain the 1m:4f rule you referenced? I'm not following you when you say that you can get 3 species in a 48" tank but not even a second fish in 37"...
> 
> Thanks


I'll add my two cents....this particular type of fish does not routinely utilized the vertical portion of the tank. "Floor space" matters much more to them, a lot more than total gallons does, so not all 50-55 gallon tanks are created equal.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

The tank I have now has more floor space by almost 100 square inches than a 48X12. Also, this guy stays low and likes to dig.


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## mark_j (Jul 15, 2016)

Also, the 1m:4f refers to the male to female ratio. These fish will aggressively compete for both territory (thus my "floor space" comment above) and chicks.


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

These fish are aggressive and have a 36" distance that they dart when fleeing from an aggressor. After 36" they will look for a place to hide. So 48" leaves the last foot for the big rock they want to hide behind, and also some territory on the substrate behind the big rock for them to claim/defend. You will notice there are no cookie cutter tanks with mbuna that are less than 48" long. Gallons are not the key factor.

I would post his pic in unidentified. There are many blue barred cichlids...what if he is a timid Cynotilapia and would be OK in a smaller tank? To me he had the blocky Metriaclima look, but I am not the best person on the forum at visual ID.

Some people even prefer 48x18 minimum for Metriaclima species.


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## mark_j (Jul 15, 2016)

garythefish said:


> The tank I have now has more floor space by almost 100 square inches than a 48X12. Also, this guy stays low and likes to dig.


That is true, but in a 48 x 12 tank, a bullied fish can get further away from his assailant in pure horizontal distance.

That said, the new tank will make a great home for Gary and he will no doubt appreciate it. You can try to add friends for him and might have great success, but realize that the 48" tank suggestion is based on real collective experience.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Given the depth of the tank, what if I put a free standing rock structure in the middle of the tank that would basically make a "racetrack" configuration for the fish to swim around?

Also I did put a pic up in the ID forum, so I'll let you know what they say. Here are some pics of the stand...needs a little bit of love to include a shelf and a bigger door, and I'll probably add 4x4's to the corners with a piece of 3/4" plywood on trusses spanning the top for added support. Tank looks good but I might touch up the secondary seals a bit as it lifts in places.



http://imgur.com/B6qDW




http://imgur.com/bZYml


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## DJRansome (Oct 29, 2005)

48" is ideal...you never know what else might work.

The rock pile that fills up the middle of the tank with space for territories/swimming around the outside of the tank is the standard for 48" tanks...72" tanks...etc. I don't think that buys you anything.


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## garythefish (Jul 29, 2016)

Okay, thank you.


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