# Picking up a 150 gallon Tuesday, setup questions



## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

I found a good craiglist deal for a 150 (72 by 18 by 24") with a stand, lights, fluval 405, and a couple small tidbits for $400. I plan on setting it up with the Fluval 405, a 55 gallon that I have I will setup as a sump, and one of my Aqueon Quietflow 55/75 HOBs. What size pump do you all think that I should run on the sump as I need to order this as well as get a heater for it? Should I do an inline or just a submersible in the sump? Does anyone know where to get the glass bits for drilling as I'd like to drill overflows into it? I will be using my father's truck to go get it and would much rather drill it myself here if feasible then have to keep taking it in and out of a truck bed. I plan on doing peacocks and haps so there wont be a ton of rock in it. What would you recomend for a clean setup that can get the detritus to the filter intakes. Undergravel jets, wavemakers, low spraybar since I will have surface disturbance from the HOB and canister? I will be looking for stocking ideas too in the malawi section.


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## SobrietyRocks707 (Feb 23, 2012)

I found a bunch of the bits by searching Google. But you can always go to glass-holes.com 
and see what they offer. Custom overflows and everything there.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Looks like my first big tank will be my first tank that I will drill myself as well. How many holes do the bits normally last? Will I be good for two holes in I'm guessing 1/2" glass with one bit as long as I use coolant the whole time?


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Honestly I would just have a local shop or someone from a forum do it for you. Bit of a expensive tank to get your first experience in on. Our local shops charge about $20>$30 for the job, and if they screw up they eat the costs.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

The problem with that is hauling it. I'm borrowing a truck to go get it and don't have much help manpower wise. I am good with my hands and patient. I used to build street rods, and did R & D fabrication for years as well as built my 67 and its stand too.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Depends. There's a massive saltwater scene up here. A lot of them will just come to you. Maybe check out your local saltwater forum. They usually always have a drill guy they use. Just a idea. Hate to see you on here with a disaster thread haha


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

On the pump size that will depend on the size of your overflows. Larger pipe means greater flow. One 1.5 overflow should do about 1400GPH and that should be close for this tank. You could also do two .75" overflows for greater coverage. Make sure to get a pump that is rated at a slightly higher GPH than your overflows.

Do a search for overflow calculator online and you will find several. Most of them are on reef sites because sumps are very common in those setups.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Why would I have a greater pump then overflow? If the pump is less than the overflow there is no risk of overflowing the tank unless something stops up the overflow right?


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

k7gixxerguy said:


> Why would I have a greater pump then overflow? If the pump is less than the overflow there is no risk of overflowing the tank unless something stops up the overflow right?


You are right, overflows have to be rated higher than the pump, taking the head pressure into account.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Also consider that I will likely have two other filters besides the sump. A fluval 405 and one of my aqueon quietflows (supposedly around 500gph.). I think that I found an fx5 too so that would replace the 405 and the 405 would go to my 67.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

Why use the canisters? If you set the "sump" up as a wet/dry it will handle all of your bio, no problem. Additional filters just add more maintenance, and most canisters seem to get neglected due to the time involved in breaking them down. If anything you could just use a polishing filter occasionally.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

I would shoot for two 1" drains at the minimum, again depending on your pump size. Two drains is better than one, especially with a 6' tank, and 1" drains are pretty standard on these tanks.

This thread has a lot of info on the subject: viewtopic.php?t=229151

Remember to calculate the head height of your tank when deciding which pump you want to use.

Also, you could always get some scrap glass to practice with before you actually drill the tank. I would play it safe and pay $30 to get someone with more experience to drill it if it were me. Chipped glass can be quite the bummer.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

b3w4r3 said:


> k7gixxerguy said:
> 
> 
> > Why would I have a greater pump then overflow? If the pump is less than the overflow there is no risk of overflowing the tank unless something stops up the overflow right?
> ...


The reason is that you will need to use a ball valve to regulate the flowrate on the pump so that it matches you drains otherwise your sump will fill or drain itself. Most pumps actually produce less GPH in real-world use than their rating.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

clhinds78 said:


> b3w4r3 said:
> 
> 
> > k7gixxerguy said:
> ...


As long as the pump can't out flow the drain no ball valve is needed, and they put extra strain on the pump anyway. The drain will reach equilibrium with the pumps flow, it won't let the sump overflow, and it wont overflow the tank. I have been running wet/drys for 15 years, and never used a ball valve anywhere. Not saying you can't do that, but what's the point of buying a more expensive pump that you have to choke down?


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

b3w4r3 said:


> clhinds78 said:
> 
> 
> > b3w4r3 said:
> ...


I guess that makes sense. I've just always hear you need them so you can regulate the flow.


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## eTrain (Oct 15, 2012)

Your over thinking it. I wouldn't use anything other than the sump and look into under gravel jets for the detrius. I do love my inline heater but if you already have one you can put in the sump then why spend the money.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

eTrain said:


> Your over thinking it. I wouldn't use anything other than the sump and look into under gravel jets for the detrius. I do love my inline heater but if you already have one you can put in the sump then why spend the money.


Its not a matter of overthinking it. Its the amount of equipment that I have and how I can most efficiently use it. I do not have a heater for this size tank yet, hence the question. The previous owner had his lock on on him in the summer so he pulled it and never replaced it. Update though. I picked up another bunch of equipment last night and am planning on playing some Craigslist flip my tank scenario. I got a 75 with a custom steel stand, 3d background, AC110, Fluval FX5, some type of heater controller (jelias or something like that, it was late,) two sets of four foot T5HO lighting, and a wet dry filter with CPR overflow box/aqualifter pump and a quiet one 4000HH pump. I am still picking up the 150 with the Fluval 405 and stand and lighting tonight and will rotate some parts around with either my 67 or the 75 and keep one of those two and the 150. My question in that regards is about the wet dry filter. It's supposedly an everclear 150WD but I cant find anything on them online. I found I believe Eshopps WD series but this looks nothing like those. I doubt that its large enough for the 150 even though the number designation would lead one to believe that it is designed for up to a 150 gallon. Do any of you wet dry guys recognize this? There is a phone number on it from a place in Clearwater, Florida so if no one here knows, I will try contacting them. If this would work, then I could sell my 55 and stand/filters/etc as a complete package as well as either the 67 or the 75 as a package as well and have more money for fish as well as have upgraded a lot of my equipment. The original intent was to sell the 55s parts and use the tank as a sump.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

After poking around the only conclusion I came up with is it was a custom build or product that shop has made. Have you tried calling seascape's # yet? Everything else comes up as pool supply, never sold or talked about on bostonreefers site :-??


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

I quite literally picked the stuff up last night around 10 pm and went home and unloaded, therefore no real research or calls have been put in besides a five minute search that only yielded the eshopps version and someone on a reef site that had been selling one and a protein skimmer. For reference sizewise, that is the back of the 75 behind it.


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## eTrain (Oct 15, 2012)

Oh, I thought that was your 55. So its probably about as wide as a 55g? I'm just trying to figure out how much media is in it.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Close to the width of a 55 and there are about 2/3 the volume of black smaller bio balls under all the blue ones. Maybe 3 gallons of bio balls total.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

I think you would be better off with around 6 gallons of bio balls. Pot scrubbers would work in that space though with their higher surface area. Looks to be a pretty well built unit.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

So, to further dive into this. My thoughts are possibly this wet dry when I figure out a bit more about it as well as the FX5 with a spray bar and an undergravel jet system. With just the sump I dont see how the detritus is going to be sucked up as the overflow would be the only intake. So the FX5 would be on gunk management duty and have its intake at least halfway down the tank and the UGJs and spraybar would direct the flow to the FX5 intake and the overflow to the sump/wet dry filter. My concern is that the volume of the wet/dry sump wont be enough. I'm looking for experienced results from those with larger tanks please. So on the current list of components to play with among my larger tanks. The FX5, a 405, AC110, Two Aquaclear 75/90s I believe (currently on my 67), the wet dry system shown a few posts up, and a 55 that is being used as a growout that could be donated as a sump as well as a 20 high that I could creatively drill and add a bulkhead to to add volume with the wet dry. I would like to sell the 55 gallon setup as a whole, so unless there is a way to use the other parts as well sumpwise, then that would be great, otherwise I will sell the 55s components (stand, marineland canister, heater, etc) and build the 55 as the sump.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

A wet dry should be enough filtration IME. The detritus can easily be managed with a couple of power heads. We've got 2 ~1300 gph units on our 125 and it stays spotless. Just work on removing any dead zones. With a large enough pump, you will also have some decent movement created by your return. Of course, you can go all out and have a ton of filtration, but I can't see how it would be necessary.

Drilling the 20 for extra volume in the sump isn't a bad idea (possibly a great spot for fresh fry). What is the volume of the wet/dry as is? Bigger is pretty much always better concerning a sump for several reasons, but the most important aspect will be managing the back-siphon when the power goes out. More specifics on your unit will help make that determination.

I'd buy a couple sun sun power heads (very cheap and work great) and use the sump system for the 150. The FX-5 and AC110 should be great on the 75, and the 405 and (1 or 2) AC 75 should work well on the 67.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

The wet dry was a custom build. Everclear no longer exists as a company. I guess that I will take some dimensions and figure out the volume of it as well as the amount of bioballs for certain, etc.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

k7gixxerguy said:


> I will take some dimensions and figure out the volume of it as well as the amount of bioballs for certain, etc.


That's what you will need to do. Try to get an idea of the total volume and the volume up to the fill line. That will help you better understand how much room you have worst case scenario.

It looks to be just about the size of a standard factory sump for a large tank though - in the picture at least.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

So I have seen people with sumps setup with the overflow system typical. Jcabage, are you saying that your water circulation gets the detritus up to an overflow or do you use a different style of intake. I have seen a couple that were more like you would see on a canister low in the tank but would imagine that could be a recipe for disaster with a pump failure or power outage.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Ok the wet dry total volume empty would be about 16.5 gallons. The minimum fill with the quiet one 4000 HH pump would eat up about 4.8 gallons. I'm assuming I would want to add a few inches for evaporation consideration so that would only leave 7.48 gallons of room for back siphon if tank was shut down. The pump supposedly does 990 gph but I don't know the head height with the stand just yet. To be continued, going to get the truck to pick up the 150.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Ok, the deal on the 150 fell through. The owner completely lied about it. He said that the only thing wrong with it was a couple very light scratches on the back wall. I specifically asked if the frame was cracked, any fogging, scratches on the glass etc. The frame was broken completely in two places and he claimed that it had high output T5 lighting with it. Nope standard **** hood lights. The stand was only supposed to have a couple light marks. The ends were off of it, a door was off and covered in mud and sitting under the stand in the bed of his truck. And the whole stand was beat. The glass looked bad too, as far as I could tell in the dark with a flashlight app on my phone. I spent over ten dollars in tolls and fifty dollars in fuel in a borrowed truck to go and not pick this up. ERRR!!! He didnt even apologize, claimed that the cracks must have happened in storage from the cold. Yeah right. I guess I will keep scouring CL or suck it up and buy a new one. I did call about a 180 last night but am not sure what condition it will be in as it was a reef tank.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

try monsterfishkeepers marketplace for your region, if craiglist dont work out. Local saltwater fish forums as well which for me is always my favorite market places.


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## eTrain (Oct 15, 2012)

Wow that sucks. I see 60" a lot. That was probably the first 72" I've seen for a while.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

k7gixxerguy said:


> I guess I will keep scouring CL or suck it up and buy a new one.


That's a shame. I've been there with CL... People don't care about your time or gas. Once I had a guy tell me that he tried to contact me before I drove all that way, but they were out of town. Something came up and he had to leave the state in the three hours since the last time I contacted him. Hah!

Lesson learned :thumb:

I wouldn't get too desperate and go after something new just yet. I watched the market for 6 months or so to find the right deal for the tank we were after. Some wait much longer than that. I was caller number 2 on 3 or 4 tanks, but it finally worked out for the better. The money I saved will go great toward buying a new stock :dancing:


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

I'm trying to be patient but in all honesty, I'm horrible about money burning a hole in my pocket. If the weather starts turning nicer it will end up in parts on my sportbike. I'm going to check out that used 180 Thursday I think and if its nice I will make him an offer. On a much enjoyable note, my girl is very excited about making a 3d background with me. Turns out that she used to carve styrofoam, balsa, and other things to make scaled scenes.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

May be a silly question but is there a season for good amounts of fish with the online vendors? It seems that a lot of what I'm seeing are out of stock or only young unsexed fish for the haps and peacocks that catch my eye.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

k7gixxerguy said:


> On a much enjoyable note, my girl is very excited about making a 3d background with me. Turns out that she used to carve styrofoam, balsa, and other things to make scaled scenes.


Be sure to post pictures!

You can definitely find something cheaper than new relatively quickly on CL, just not a great deal (depending on your area of course). Maybe you could broaden your search a bit?


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

I have broadened my search, I drove an hour and a half each way last night. Any further than that is too much of a gamble with the cost of fuel nowadays. If only the Craigslist people were honest. Another 200 gallon that I looked at sunday was really a beat 125.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Another update on the wet dry filter. It contains 5 gallons of bioballs. What size tank do you all think that would support? As I said before, I can expand the water volume by hooking its bulkhead to another tank or opening it and setting the whole thing in a rubbermaid tote.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

50-100 gal tank. Better off just replacing it with pond matrix or something using the same space


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

k7gixxerguy said:


> It contains 5 gallons of bioballs. What size tank do you all think that would support?


That seems a little low, but it will probably work. I think the standard on factory 6' tank wet/dry's is somewhere around 8 gallons, or more. Some recommend 10% of the volume - 150 gallons = 15 gallons of bio balls. We've got about 12 gallons to run our 135.

If you can't get the tank to cycle, just add some more media. Pot scrubbers are great :thumb:


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Is there a translation with pond matrix? I'm guessing that it doesnt take as much matrix as it would bioballs. Also, if using matrix, would it be beneficial to place a few filter bags worth of it down in the water area for nitrate consumption, rather than all of it up in the drip system? i've read that matrix works best nitrate wise when its in slower moving less oxygenated areas of filtration, so under the drip area probably wouldnt be ideal but better than nothing I would assume.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Looked at a used 180 yesterday and was being OCD about some scratches and light hazing from being a salt water tank. I will be picking up my new 125 Monday when it gets in. I just cant handle the scratches and marks on something that I want to make very nice personally, plus I got a pretty good deal on it. I posted up my 55 on CL last night and have 3 biters for it already. Trying to make some room. Now I have to choose between the 67 that I built myself and the 75 that I picked up last week with tons of goodies. The 75 has a background in it already but for whatever reason the guy put one 2/3 the way up the left side which makes it look silly to me. I dont really want to try to cut it out of the left side for fear of scratching the side wall and damaging the silicone fillet. If I did that, I'd have to strip the whole background out to reseal the tank and then put it right back in. My thoughts are to use the rest of the left wall on this tank and the right wall for DIY background practice and just turn it into a cave looking tank only viewable from the front. My girl doesnt want me to sell the 67, simply because I made it and it is a nice tank, but I need to recoup some money and room here. Personal opinions? In general, if any of you saw a tank with 3d background around the back and the sides would that be appealing to you? It would be great for an in wall viewed from one side only, or between bookcases or the like IMO.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Well pond matrix comes in a 4liter bucket. $25- over at kensfish. Should be way more then enough. Well it needs flow around it, so if the flow is minimal putting a air stone under it will help big time as in under the drip section. You'll have a lot of left overs for sure to play around with. I'm very anti bio balls, so glad your considering other stuff  what are the 67 dimensions, never seen one.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> Well pond matrix comes in a 4liter bucket. $25- over at kensfish. Should be way more then enough. Well it needs flow around it, so if the flow is minimal putting a air stone under it will help big time as in under the drip section. You'll have a lot of left overs for sure to play around with. I'm very anti bio balls, so glad your considering other stuff  what are the 67 dimensions, never seen one.


I use normal matrix in my HOBS and in the FX5 that I got last week and love it, so if I can use the space of the wet dry more efficiently, then why not? Are you saying that the 4 liter bucket would be good for a 125 gallon by itself in a wet dry? I am throwing a bunch of leftovers on CL and Im sure someone will scoop up 5 gallons of bioballs. I havent tried the wet dry on anything yet but it looks like it might be noisy from the water coming out of the overflows. How lous are these typically? All my tanks are in my bedroom. I sleeps with da fishes. Actually its the only great climat controlled room in the house.

The 67 is just an eighteen inch tall 75 footprint. 48 by 18 by 18. I had "scrap" :thumb: 10mm starphire glass from work cut to make it. I was going to make a bigger tank out of glass here but the problem was getting it cut and seamed nicely enough out of 12mm. I didnt want the hassle and lost glass from their attempts. My company makes bullet resistant glass, so the edges dont need to be spot on square when they are potted into window frames.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Well seachem suggests 1-2 liters per 100 gallons. Don't think noise will be a issue, hard to say. All depends on drip rate and drip distance and droplet size.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

I think the bio balls you have will do the job. 1 gallon of bio balls to every 30 gallons of tank volume is sufficient with a good turnover rate. If you want more surface area adding some pot scrubbers will it increase by about 4 times over the bio balls. The problem with matrix is it will get clogged up with solid waste pretty quickly, waste that with bio balls typically falls through and collects on the bottom of the sump for easy removal.

Not that matrix won't work, anything can work. Back in the day people used plastic army men in wet drys. If you use matrix you will probably need to clean the bio section more often, especially if nitrate production gets out of control.


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

Plastic army men, really? WOW! I've heard it all now!


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

I use matrix on my 75G and it works just fine. I clean it about every three months or so. It does get a big clogged, but not too bad.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Yeah I've never had any clogging issues, but if matrix being as effective as it is, what's better I ask, the 15 min every few months maintenance with superior bio media, or inferior bio media that you'll still have to clean eventually anyways


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Well, I picked up a reef ready 125 last night. This tank only supports 700gph through the overflows though so I will still do the FX5 as well as the wet dry filter. Im going to have to either choke the output back or get a different pump though as the 4000 HH is supposedly around 950gph. What would you guys recomend as fars as spray bars verse just the nozzles that come with the marineland stacks considering that I will have two outputs, one from the FX5 and one from the wet dry. I'm wondering what the best current pattern to setup would be.


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## b3w4r3 (Dec 14, 2012)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> Yeah I've never had any clogging issues, but if matrix being as effective as it is, what's better I ask, the 15 min every few months maintenance with superior bio media, or inferior bio media that you'll still have to clean eventually anyways


The problem is more about gas exchange. On the surface bio balls may seem less efficient due to not having the higher surface area, but of course that's why bio chambers are so large in a wet/dry. To allow the proper amount of surface area while at the same time allowing as much room as possible for gas exchange. While the pond matrix is better than the smaller media in this setup, it still will have issues with gas exchange at the bottom middle of the bio stack. That's a possible place for anaerobic bacteria to colonize which can convert nitrite/nitrate back to ammonia.

Another consideration is that as the bio film builds up the bottom layers die off and eventually lose their grip. This can contribute to clogging up the media area if there is not enough open space for it to fall through to the sump where it can be vacuumed out. In a canister these smaller medias are exposed to a lot more pressure where a wet/dry only has gravity on it's side to clean out debris.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

k7gixxerguy said:


> Well, I picked up a reef ready 125 last night.


 =D> :dancing: =D>



k7gixxerguy said:


> This tank only supports 700gph through the overflows though so I will still do the FX5 as well as the wet dry filter. Im going to have to either choke the output back or get a different pump though as the 4000 HH is supposedly around 950gph.


Does the 125 only have a single overflow with a 1" drain? That seems a bit odd - Maybe two 3/4" drains? How did you come up with 700 gph?

The 4000HH should only be pushing around ~750 gph at 4.5' of head in peak condition without any other restrictions (from Tees or 90's in your plumbing). I'm guessing you should be close to 4.5', assuming a 22" tall tank on a 30" stand or so. You won't be over 800 gph unless the stand is under 2' tall - doubtful.



k7gixxerguy said:


> What would you guys recomend as fars as spray bars verse just the nozzles that come with the marineland stacks considering that I will have two outputs, one from the FX5 and one from the wet dry. I'm wondering what the best current pattern to setup would be.


I think the general consensus is that a spray bar out weighs a nozzle on the FX-5. If you are going to run both, I would use nozzles for the sump return (will you just have one?) and a spray bar for the FX-5.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

I will verify the ratings when I get home but it was on the packaging somewhere. It is dual overflows though. So an overflow and a return on each end of the tank.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Ok, it was 700 per corner overflow. So spray bar from the fx5 across the back wall between the overflows minus the width needed for the fx5 intake. I'm going to do a 3d background and try to do something on the big black plastic overflow walls.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

That sounds more like it :thumb:

If you're doing a 3D background anyway, it might be beneficial to figure out some way of putting the FX-5 intake toward the center of the tank. That would offer more complete coverage. Just a thought!


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

b3w4r3 said:


> CrypticLifeStyle said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah I've never had any clogging issues, but if matrix being as effective as it is, what's better I ask, the 15 min every few months maintenance with superior bio media, or inferior bio media that you'll still have to clean eventually anyways
> ...


Maybe with hollow old-school bio-balls, but that sump is filled with the later design. With that much flow going through that sump, and it dropping flow out the bottom of the tray with regular maintenance via visual inspection i think it'll be fine. I mentioned to him before the bottom-bottom layer he might want to add a air stone though, but the top chamber he should be ok for a few months. I run a WD300CS for my 180, never get gunked. I guess apart of the build up is also contributed to water changes, and bio-load differences.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Ok, spray bar from the fx5 and I will pipe the two overflow returns together to the 4000 hh if that would be better than just capping one and allowing full current out of a single. The spray bar would obviously go straight forward unless I do something squirrelly such as drilling the holes on a 30 degree angle creating kind of a spiraling vortex towards one end of the tank or the other. Now if I'm doing the two nozzle returns from the overflows, what aiming have you all had good results from? There are two snap out semicircles in each overflow and I want to just remove what I need to to keep the look as clean as possible. I did notice at very quick glance that there are panels that slide off of the black arched overflow panels that have vents lower. Do these pull some of the water and detritus from lower in the tank as long as there is a fast enough turnover rate in the tank? The reason I ask is that I want to figure out a way to blend the overflows into the 3d background but at the same time do not want to hinder any function of it.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

What if you did the overflow in one giant stretch across the length on top of the 3dbg?


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

How would I get the intake for the fx 5 in then. I had thought about popping the cutouts on the back of the overflows and running it so that it hooked to one overflow return and was capped inside the other overflow. Once again my problem with that is blocking the intake pipe of the fx5


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

I can sketch up a vision tomorrow at work of whats going through my head at least. Basic 125 dimensions? Any pic of the 3dbg or know how deep it'll be?


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Standard 125, 72 by 18 by 22". DIY background 2-3" thick at most as I don't want it to eat up too much tank space.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> What if you did the overflow in one giant stretch across the length on top of the 3dbg?


Were you meaning the spray bar? Not, the overflow? My response above was assuming that you meant the spray bar.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

yeah, a giant over flow that stretchs the entire length of the tank, like a really long skimmer with the comb cuts on top of the 3dbg and make it adjustable like a **** gate to adjust flow flowing. Then all the intakes are hidden, and there's a uniformed drainage.

Spray bar maybe under the center brace, one nozzle pointing towards each side of the tank.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

That seems a little impractical with the tank being drilled at the bottom. You would build a giant acrylic overflow in some sort of upside down U configuration? I'm guessing you would have to remove the factory weirs (or cut them) to accomplish a single overflow.

That being said, coast to coast overflows are how I have heard them termed, and I do like them much more as well  It would just be more reasonable if you had the tank drilled at the top (preferably a herbie/bean style drain).


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

If I find a used tank with a non tempered bottom I would consider doing that but I don't want to eat up any more real estate in this tank than the couple inches of a thin background will. I don't like when 1/3 of the front to back depth disappears in a tank. I plan on doing some larger haps/peacocks and need to leave them as much room as reasonably possible.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

jcabage said:


> That seems a little impractical with the tank being drilled at the bottom. You would build a giant acrylic overflow in some sort of upside down U configuration? I'm guessing you would have to remove the factory weirs (or cut them) to accomplish a single overflow.
> 
> That being said, coast to coast overflows are how I have heard them termed, and I do like them much more as well  It would just be more reasonable if you had the tank drilled at the top (preferably a herbie/bean style drain).


No u-tube. They call it a surface weir, and yes sometimes called coast to coast. It's been put into application into a lot of reef tanks more, and more. A lot of public aquariums use it as well. He can have the tank drilled wherever he wants i suppose, its just how the back chamber would have to be designed. He wants a added fx5 intake so i'm making a quick design at the moment to show a idea to think about, modify in his head or something, while using as least space as possible.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Thx for all the input guys. Please consider that if you are drawing something up that this tank must stay tight to the wall with only just over the thickness of the fx5 intake tube distance to the wall. If I could get everything inside the tank that would be even better but I can't figure out a good way of doing that with the wet dry and the fx5 inline.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Hmm in that case your prob going to have to drill the bottom then.


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## jcabage (May 29, 2012)

With holes already drilled on the bottom, I personally wouldn't want to close them and have 5 more drilled in the rear of the tank. That is definitely an option though. I agree that coast-to-coast plumbing is awesome, and space saving (in the areas that the fish will swim for the most part). You would have to plumb it out of the back which will need some space though.

If you are going to drill new holes, you might be able to figure out some way to plumb the FX-5 through the tank. I'm not sure if people have done this before or not. I don't see how it would work inline. You will be essentially maxing out your drains with the added flow from the canister, which offers quite a risk of flood.

I would just keep the tank a couple inches from the wall and run the FX-5 over the back alongside the standard sump setup. I like a couple inches for splash protection anyway


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Already drilled huh, and they are corner drills? We need pics


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Not the best pics but here you go.

















And yes that is in the side of my bedroom. My name is Craig and I have MTS.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

Ah ok, nevermind my idea then. It could work, but after see the pic. it just would be over engineering it. Well if they are drilled on both sides then a stand pipe on both sides, connect the tubing from both into one in the middle below before piped into the sump with a shut off valve for each, and one for the pipe leading into the sump, and add a overflow for the middle for the fx5. I'd say you can just slip the fx5 into one of the overflow boxes that exist, but i've never seen it done in person so no idea how that would work with competing suctions.

what size are those 2 smaller tanks on the left. i like them :thumb:


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

The top tank is a 6.6, her shrimp nursery tank, and the bottom is two tens long sides against each other for my young fry. Behind on the same wall is the 67 that I built as well as the stand. On the far wall is a 75 that I picked up last week, to its right a 20 high hospital/quarantine whatever, and on the dresser a 20 long planted with nano style fish and crystal red, crystal black and blue velvet shrimp.


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Oh and I forgot her 2 gallon or so beta tank on the black desk. Lol. Either the 67 or the 75 will be sold and the 125 placed on that left side wall.


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## fishing12 (Dec 15, 2012)

Is MTS Multi Tank Syndrome? LOL!


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

fishing12 said:


> Is MTS Multi Tank Syndrome? LOL!


Yes, do you need a sponsor?


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## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

k7gixxerguy said:


> fishing12 said:
> 
> 
> > Is MTS Multi Tank Syndrome? LOL!
> ...


Heh... No joke.

That is funny right there...


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## fishing12 (Dec 15, 2012)

k7gixxerguy said:


> fishing12 said:
> 
> 
> > Is MTS Multi Tank Syndrome? LOL!
> ...


If you ask my wife yes, if you ask me not yet but getting there I have the 72 bow and the 180 LOL!


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## cantrell00 (Oct 30, 2010)

fishing12 said:


> k7gixxerguy said:
> 
> 
> > fishing12 said:
> ...


If they accuse you of being nuts, just remind them that they said yes..


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## clhinds78 (Jul 27, 2012)

fishing12 said:


> k7gixxerguy said:
> 
> 
> > fishing12 said:
> ...


Only two tanks? You're barely getting started. I already have three and I just started the hobby back up about a year ago. 

If you're wife needs some convincing that you don't quite have MTS yet just point her to some of the members of this forum and how many tanks we have.


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## fishing12 (Dec 15, 2012)

Shell point me to the door! I will have three once I set up the quarantine tank. One day I will have a fish room when Im retired and and have the time to do that. Its DMTS Delayed Multi Tank Syndrome.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Dec 14, 2009)

MTS is a good symptom. Let it propagate. Spread thy fish tanks


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## k7gixxerguy (Jan 12, 2012)

Well, today I get to pick up some more supplies and start on the BG, spray bar, some fake rocks to silicone individually on the overflows, etc. I will likely start a build thread next week as I have to build the stand and canopy as well as the BG.


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