# My Albino cichlid maybe sick. Please help. (Newbie)



## qh0st (Jul 31, 2014)

Hi gurus, thank you so much for taking the time to read my post. I am in need of some advice and guidance as I am extremely new to the world of cichlids and having an aquarium. I have a 55 gallon tank with 12 African cichlids. One of them, the Albino white cichlid, is showing red marks on its body. Please see image (https://db.tt/SZevBpAh).

Is this a disease? If so, what is it? Can can it be treated? I've already lost a Strawberry peacock from pop eye disease earlier. Trying to be more proactive in the prevention and treatment then reactive.

Thanks in advance.


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## qh0st (Jul 31, 2014)

Some additional info:

This cichlid was given to me from the previous owner of the aquarium that I purchased off. They did not do a good job with maintenance so this condition maybe pre-existing.

* I had this aquarium setup for about 2 months now.
* I do bi-weekly 25% water changes.
* Feed them twice a day. Pellets in the AM and flakes in the PM. Occassionaly, feed them blood worms on weekends that I will be away for 2-3 days.
* Have 2 Aquaeon filters (90 gallon one and 55 gallon one)
* Water temperature is set to 76-78 degrees
* I don't have the specifics on the water test. The last test I got done at Petco concluded that everything was within normal range with the exception of nitrate. My nitrate level is on the higher end but not in the dangerous range.

Thanks in advance.


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

Welcome to C-F.

You'll need an accurate water test kit- ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Petco normal ranges are not entirely safe. You may have high nitrate due to several reasons, but I'd look at your water change regimen. 25% every other week is generally not enough. 30-50% a week or more is the norm for cichlids. Popeye is an infection consistent with poor water quality.

The fish in question appears to be an albino Pseudotropheus Socolofi, commonly called a Snow White. I see a lateral line and some pink hues. Not sure if that's normal or not...

I suggest picking up a test kit that uses liquid reagents and test tubes- not strips. Petco sells one by API. Also, please provide your entire stock list of species(size, quantity, sex if known), detailed maintenance schedule, ph/gh/kh(if possible), fish condition and behavior and anything else you can think of.


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## Deeda (Oct 12, 2012)

Without knowing the water parameters of your tank, it will be difficult to know if this is a water quality issue. I highly recommend you buy a test kit that tests for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, at the very least. If you could get the actual results from Petco, that would be helpful if they give you the actual number values rather than good or bad, safe or unsafe.

I didn't see any redness in the gill area but with albino fish, discoloration is more noticeable.

I would step up your water changes to at least 25% weekly, larger (50%) if your fish are a similar size to the pic you posted. I assume you are using a water conditioner that is appropriate for your tap (source) water, correct?


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## aicardi (Sep 15, 2012)

+1 on the test kit. The API Master test kit is a must. Until then, I'd do at least 50% water changes weekly.
I'm wondering since the tank is relatively new if it's not cycled which might explain the redness. I have a Pseudotropheus Socolofi and mine does 
not show any redness at all. I don't think the dark stripe is anything to worry on.
What are the other tank mates?


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## qh0st (Jul 31, 2014)

Thanks everyone for getting back to me so soon. I will definitely go buy a water test kit and get back to everyone with readings this weekend.


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## qh0st (Jul 31, 2014)

Hi everyone. I finally purchased the Master Kit and got readings. Here are my results:

Temperature: 78 degrees
Ammonia: 0.25 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 40 ppm
pH: 7.2

In my tank I have the following cichlids:

2 strawberry peacocks (1-2 inches)
3 yellow labs (Labidochromis caeruleus)(2-3 inches)
2 blue dolphins (Cyrtocara moorii) (3 inches)
1 red zebra mbuna (2-3 inches)
2 yellow fins (Copadichromis borleyi) (2-3 inches)
2 albino socolofi (5-6 inches)
2 algae eaters

The last water change I did was July 29th -- 25-30% water change.


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## qh0st (Jul 31, 2014)

Do commenters get notified when a new reply is posted or do I need to message these individuals manually? I am just curious because I'm following up on questions that was asked from me. Thanks!


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## Iggy Newcastle (May 15, 2012)

qh0st said:


> Do commenters get notified when a new reply is posted or do I need to message these individuals manually? I am just curious because I'm following up on questions that was asked from me. Thanks!


Weekends are a little slow on the forum.

Having any ammonia is not a good thing. Try testing your tank water against some bottled water to see if your tank truly does have any ammonia. Do a 50 % WC to lower your nitrates, followed by another 50% WC the next day to get it down from 40 ppm. Monitor daily to see how fast it rises. Weekly changes will likely be all you need. Has any of the discoloration on your fish intensified? Acting and eating normal?

Your stock includes fish that eventually outgrow your 55. Also, Malawi cichlids do best in groups and stocked according to the tank footprint. Maybe post this list for further advice in the Lake Malawi section.


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## freelanderuk (Jun 26, 2014)

test your ammonia in your tank water and do a comparison to the water you use to do your water changes , i was getting the same color in my tap water as i was in my tank


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## qh0st (Jul 31, 2014)

I just did a 50% WC with gravel vacuuming today. Before doing it, I did a water test on the tank and check the ammonia and nitrate of the tap water source. The nitrate level was the same (40 ppm) as well as the ammonia (0.25 ppm). To my surprise, the tap water source's ammonia level was 0.50 ppm and the nitrate level was 20 ppm.

I added water conditioner and API quick start as part of the water change. After this was all done, I waited about an hour or so and performed another water test. Here are my results:

Temperature: 78 degrees
Ammonia: 0.25 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 20 ppm <--- IMPROVED was 40 ppm
pH: 7.6 <--- IMPROVED... was 7.2

I don't think I will ever get the ammonia level to 0 without the help of some chemical since my tap water source has ammonia at 0.50 ppm. Same goes for the nitrate level. I will do another 50% water test tomorrow and retest the water.

Thanks for your help guys!


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## GTZ (Apr 21, 2010)

The ammonia reading could be due to chloramine (chlorine+ammonia) as part of your water treatment. Test your tank 24-36 hours after a water change.


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