# 150 gallon upgrade. Floor questions!!!



## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

Ok so I plan on upgrading to either a 125 or 150. From what I have been reading a 125 should be ok due to the floor beams being perpendicular but I truly want a 150. The beams are 3x8's (2.75 x7.5 actual size) at with 13" separation so the tank would sit across at least 5 beams against a load bearing wall as well. Just wondering if people have a similar setup or have any suggestions. The beams also have prices of wood between the beams for additional support


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

You could put practically any tank you want on that floor. Have you considered a 180g tank?


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## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

I have but, i feel that may be pushing it too much.


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## LeeAberdeen (Sep 4, 2014)

I think you're being unduly wary, which is no bad thing really. Just had this debate with a few people because I'm putting a 140g in a first-floor flat. The full weight with rocks, substrate, cabinet and water will be slightly over 2,000lbs, which is a fairly daunting figure and could make you nervous. But... you've got to take into account the surface area, and 2,000lbs over 14sq ft is about 140lbs per sq ft. That's no different to having 14 skinny blokes stood next to each other, and I wouldn't expect my floor to be anywhere near to collapsing if I had 14 visitors in the front room.

It's slightly different in my place because the floors are nine-inch-thick concrete, so they'd be okay anyway, and you could probably park a tank up there with no problems. But, across five beams and next to a supporting wall, you'll be fine and, if you really want the 150g, I don't think you'd have any problems.


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## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

Sounds good at least i know i can put a 150 there. But of course the bigger the better 180 would be sick


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## LeeAberdeen (Sep 4, 2014)

I'd go for it. Always buy the biggest tank you can manage, because you'll only regret it if you don't. If you're really worried, you could always go for a larger footprint on the tank, so more width and length rather than height. Go on, you know you want to...


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## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

:thumb: thanks


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## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

Anyone else with large tanks in a similar setup with 150/180.


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## JimA (Nov 7, 2009)

You can do it, I went from a 160 to a 8ft 240 with no problems. My floor set up is similar to yours. And yes go as big as you can, I started with a 40 gallon and worked my way up. I Should have just started with a 300 :lol:


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## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

I think im going for a 180  now. thanks everyone


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## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

Just bought a 180 last night. Got it cheaper than a 150 i got quoted at a different store. I guess they had a black Friday sale got tank/stand/glass canopy for 1k


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## forest109 (Sep 7, 2010)

As a retired structural engineer, I haven't seen anything yet on this post that really addresses what the capacity of the floor framing is. This will depend not only on the size and spacing of the floor joists (which is mentioned, 2x8's on 16 inch centers), but also the span of the joists, the dead and live load of the floor (i.e. is it carpeted, wood, tiled, etc., and is it living room or bedroom space) and the joist end bearing condition. The capacity of the floor depends on all of these factors. The good news is that you mention that the tank is perpendicular to the joists (sitting across at least 5 joists) and against a wall. If the tank is against a bearing wall, as opposed to the middle of the joist span, then the bending stress on the joists is minimal, although the shear at the end of the joists is large. In general, it is not a good idea to add an 1,800 lb load (the approximate weight of a 180 gallon tank and water) to a framed floor without having it checked.


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## ramonj6047 (Aug 4, 2011)

I will be setting it up today. I beleive the beams run accross 12 or 14' (not home yet to verifiy) but i know if something is not level i'll be sistering the beams.


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## noddy (Nov 20, 2006)

forest109 said:


> As a retired structural engineer, I haven't seen anything yet on this post that really addresses what the capacity of the floor framing is. This will depend not only on the size and spacing of the floor joists (which is mentioned, 2x8's on 16 inch centers), but also the span of the joists, the dead and live load of the floor (i.e. is it carpeted, wood, tiled, etc., and is it living room or bedroom space) and the joist end bearing condition. The capacity of the floor depends on all of these factors. The good news is that you mention that the tank is perpendicular to the joists (sitting across at least 5 joists) and against a wall. If the tank is against a bearing wall, as opposed to the middle of the joist span, then the bending stress on the joists is minimal, although the shear at the end of the joists is large. In general, it is not a good idea to add an 1,800 lb load (the approximate weight of a 180 gallon tank and water) to a framed floor without having it checked.


The OP said in his initial post that they were 3 x 8"s, I assumed he was talking about TJ I's.


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## forest109 (Sep 7, 2010)

Yeah, I misread the width, but TJI's are an I-shaped wide flange section, and I got the impression that ramonj6047 was talking about a rectangular section. LVL, LSL and PSL sections are rectangular, but they come in widths of 1.75", 3.50" etc. (multiples of 1.75") and the closest depth is 7.25", not 7.50". 2.75"x7.5" sounds like an old full cut 3x8 dimensioned lumber section. In any case, the other information I mentioned would still be necessary to check the floor capacity.


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