# adopted a 9in oscar no cycled tank need help



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

hello this is my first post i need help, here is the story i got a call at work do you want an oscar if not he's going to be let go in the river. i had an empty 55 gallon tank so i said yes after work i filled the tank that was 3 days ago. i took an aquaclear 50 from my planted 20 gallon tank it's fine i have a sponge filter in there and tested today every thing zero. and i'm running uncycled topfin 60 and penguin 200 the penguin has some filter media from my aquaclear. i used sechem stability today and tested 0.5 ppm ammonia but i did 15 gallon water change last night. now it's at 3.0 ppm amonia. nitrate and nitrite are at 0 should i do water changes every night or let the ammonia spike a little bit if so what level, to keep my oscar alive please heal i'll do anything to keep him alive he's so awsome.


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

> 3.0 ppm amonia


       

OMG! If you have 3.0 ammonia, you need to do WC's immediately and frequently until you get it to ZERO. That level of ammonia will kill your O. If I"m following your post correctly, it sounded like you took a cycled filter from another tank, so I don't understand the HUGE ammonia spike. Can you put more from a cycled tank into your 55G? *Get a product called: Dr. Tim's One and Only (stole this from Robin's thread in the Illness section :wink: ) *Stability will help, but not add the beneficial bacteria you need for a 9" O. Do you have friends with a fish tank that you can grab some gravel or filter media from their tank?

This is an emergency situation...get some beneficial bacteria from some source ASAP. And, continue doing 30-40% WC's until you get that ammonia reading down to ZERO. You may need to do 30% WC's several times a DAY.

OH, and bless you for saving that O! =D> =D> =D> =D>


----------



## rarefaction (Aug 6, 2009)

opcorn:


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

I want to tell you this notismonster I was in the same boat is you were but only worse! My tank recycled when I added a 2nd AC 110 filter I thought the first one would be enough to maintain the bacteria in my tank but it wasn't. My Ammonia only got worse it started out at .25 and then gradually got all the way up to 6.0!!!!!!! I use the Dr Tim's and a cycling solution I bought at Pet Smart waited things out for about a week and I'm back to zero! I also bought the ammonia remover filter pads for the AC's and this helped to I'm sure. They main thing I want to stress is don't do any water changes! I did them and it only got worse each time you need to seed your tank with the beneficial bacteria and build it up. Good luck just follow the directions and be patient and your tank will thrive! :thumb:


----------



## LSBoost (Jan 21, 2010)

If you don't water change then it's a good idea to at least detox the tank. I think you forgot that part DJ :thumb:


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

Thanks for having my back


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

I had to do a water change the smell was so bad. should i be feeding or how much ? thanks everyone for all the help the water i replaced i put enough stability to compensate i'll test the levels in a little bit i want the water to mix well tomorrow all get the Dr. tim's. oh i also am using 1 tea spoon of aquarium salt for every 5 gallons.


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

GH - 75ppm 
KH - 80ppm
PH - 7.2
nitrate - 0
nitrite - 0
Ammonia - 3.0

thats after a 15 gallon water change

i just added 5 cups of gravel from my planted tank and 1 gallon it's only 20 gallons i i cant take to much the water was dark in color shroud have some beneficial bacterial


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

I could squeeze my sponge filters from my 20 g planted tank.
Put a littler water from my planted tank every day (how much?)
i already put a java fern and a few bunches of java moss, but i don't want to keep the light on too much so i don't stress out the oscar.


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

The water has little to do with beneficial bacteria. The gravel and plants will bring some, though. IMO, you need to do much larger water changes to get that ammonia level down. *Don't vacuum the gravel - just remove and replace water.* I'd be doing 40-50% WC's, if it was me. Are you using a dechlorinator that also removes ammonia? IMO, Seachem's Prime is the best. That will at least detoxify the ammonia. Ammonia at 3.0 is deadly. And, you can use a higher dose to detox the ammonia - *read the label!*

If you can't find Dr. Tim's beneficial bacteria, I think Tetra makes one. Marineland used to market it as Bio-Spira, but Tetra makes it now as *Safe Start*. The Bio Spira, I think, is now only for saltwater tanks.

You asked about food too. I would feed VERY lightly until you get this ammonia under control. You don't need uneaten food spoiling in the tank and causing more ammonia problems. But, once you get the beneficial bacteria in the tank, I've had great success using NLS food. That's what I feed my O and he's a monster! :lol:


----------



## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

Not all chlorine conditioners are compatible with Safestart or One and Only. You don't want the ones that remove/lock up ammonia. The bacteria in those products need ammonia to live and cycle your tank. Both Tetra & Dr. Tim's have good phone support. Ask them which conditioners to use and how much water to remove.

(If you're using Safestart, for instance, I think they'd recommend using Aquasafe as a dechlorinator.)


----------



## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

This is from a tech at Tetra. http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/aquarium-nitrogen-cycle/58116-q-tetra-tetra-safestart.html



> In regards to ammonia products, yes, they kill TSS. Any type, whether a
> chloramines remover or detoxifier, etc, anything that says it locks up
> ammonia or removes ammonia. Do not add TSS for 24 hours after using
> such a product, and do not add such a product for at least 7 days after
> ...


This is part of the FAQ at Dr. Tim's One and Only. http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/Helpful_hints/OneandOnlyFAQs/OneandOnlyFAQs.html



> One & Only is designed for one job Ã¢â‚¬â€œ quickly establish a biofilter in your newly set-up aquarium so that your fish do not experience New Tank Syndrome (NTS) which is when the water contains such high levels of ammonia and/or nitrite that your fish die. One & Only does this by containing species of ammonia- and nitrite-oxidizing bacteria that prefer to live in the fish tank environment. One & Only is not a sludge buster nor will One & Only remove nitrate. One & Only will maintain ammonia and nitrite below toxic concentrations and establish a fully functioning biological filter in less than half the time of a similar but non-dosed aquarium.
> 
> In general, you can add one giant danio-sized fish per gallon when initially dosing with One & Only. Feed normally and monitor ammonia and nitrite levels in the water. You might see a little ammonia or nitrite for a day or so but this will quickly disappear. You can then add more fish to the aquarium.
> 
> ...


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

Just to clarify: I was suggesting OP use Prime as an IMMEDIATE help to detox the ammonia; NOT to be used in conjunction with beneficial bacteria products. :fish:


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

Any update notismonster?


----------



## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

twohuskies said:


> Just to clarify: I was suggesting OP use Prime as an IMMEDIATE help to detox the ammonia; NOT to be used in conjunction with beneficial bacteria products. :fish:


And that's reasonable advice, given the levels he had. These products should come with skull n' crossbone labels telling you EXACTLY what's safe to mix and what isn't (and how long you need to wait after using something like Prime). Whatever you do, don't ask the proprietor of the LFS. Though they're often well-intentioned, they hawk these products like alchemists selling magic potions at a fair.


----------



## oldcatfish (May 27, 2009)

If you don't have a cycled tank, then just consider it the same as a hospital/quarantine/holding tank. In other words, do daily 1/2 water changes. After a week drop them to daily 1/3, then after another week to daily 1/4. At that point, you can start cutting back with the water changes a bit, but you need to monitor water conditions closely. You can speed up the process by adding gravel/sand from an established tank.


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

thank you every one for all the help i have not done any water changes yet i will tonight. i put an ammonia remover in my aqua clear 50 and the ammonia is staying at 3.0 ppm i know it high but my oscar look healthy and happy nitrate is high 3.0 nitrate is 20 ppm thats want i wanted so i know i have all the right bacteria in there so i'm going to do a big water change 30 - 40 %. from now on i'll do more water changes but if i change to much water will i still cycle fast it's going very fast right now with no water changes but levels are high. i don't want to use prime cuz i want my tester to show actual levels.


----------



## LSBoost (Jan 21, 2010)

Keeping ammonia and nitrite at high level does not shorten cycle time, it will only hurt your fish. If I were you I would do daily water changes till my ammonia and nitrite are both below 1ppm. A high quality water conditioner is also needed to make tap water safe for fish and beneficial bacterial. Good luck


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

LSBoost said:


> Keeping ammonia and nitrite at high level does not shorten cycle time, it will only hurt your fish. If I were you I would do daily water changes till my ammonia and nitrite are both below 1ppm. A high quality water conditioner is also needed to make tap water safe for fish and beneficial bacterial. Good luck


I'm with Boost. =D>


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

No comment. Ugh :-?


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

hay DJ what do you think i did 15 gallon water change levels are quite high. The tank you talked about that went to 6.0 ppm how long did it take to cycle without water changes. after my water change tonight levels where

ammonia 3.0 ppm 
nitrate 10 ppm
nitrite 3.0 ppm

i don't know what they where before the water change but my Oscar did not look as happy as yesterday so what should i do


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

> *ammonia 3.0 ppm *
> nitrate 10 ppm
> *nitrite 3.0 ppm *


I don't want to sound like a broken record, but these levels are *deadly*. Nitr*I*te and Ammonia will kill your fish. 

Have you gotten any of the beneficial bacteria products to add? I think, at this point, these additives are critical.

Until you get the beneficial bacteria additive, IMHO, you need to be doing larger WC's. Don't vacuum the gravel; just remove water. If you don't want to use prime, you can use Amquel Plus - that will help with ammonia and nitrite. I can't stress enough that removing WATER will not change the speed of your cycle. It's imperative for the survival of your fish. You have to dilute the ammonia and nitrites in that tank.


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

Ok notismonster here is what I did and it worked like a charm. Let me first say I did the water changes in the beginning and when I did the ammonia just rose and never went down and then at the worst part it got to 6.0ppm. Hence I thought my tank recycled. I treated my tank with prime for the amount of the 60 gallon did not do any water changes. I then went out and got Dr. Tim's bacteria in a bottle, bought 2 ammonia remover pads for my Ac 110's. I then bought an extra bit of Cycle booster in a bottle at my LFS added the recommended amount daily after using the whole bottle of Dr Tim's the first day and it took about a week. It was fast and I'm very happy. You just have to remain patient and follow the directions and let those filters and your tank build up the bacteria to break down the ammonia to nitrite and then to nitrate. As I'm sure you know all this. But this is exactly what I did and it worked like a charm! No water changes just treated the water I had in the tank with Prime winks at boost lol and the rest as I stated above. This is only my opinion of what I did and I hope I don't offend others that may give you advice cause I'm just speaking on my personal expierence you know? I wish you luck my friend!!!!!


----------



## rarefaction (Aug 6, 2009)

twohuskies said:


> I can't stress enough that removing WATER will not change the speed of your cycle. It's imperative for the survival of your fish. You have to dilute the ammonia and nitrites in that tank.


+1 
The solution to pollution is dilution. (Sorry, can't remember which CF member I stole that from. :lol
The bacteria can only reproduce so fast, therefore they will still multiply up to the demand at much lower ammonia/nitrite levels. Change that water... and often in 10% to 20% shots. I'm hoping your fish makes it! opcorn:


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

ok i'll start changing the water 10% at a time Nitrite is getting high and i'm worried. 
DJ i can't find Dr Tim's and my Oscar is not very happy right now as long as i don't do huge water changes i think i'll be fine. kinda a middle ground

THANKS EVERYONE


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

his left lip was swollen and red when i got him the swelling went down a little bit and the red is gone 
i know he was in a small tank not sure how small but smaller then my 55 gallon


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

notismonster said:


> ok i'll start changing the water 10% at a time Nitrite is getting high and i'm worried.
> DJ i can't find Dr Tim's and my Oscar is not very happy right now as long as i don't do huge water changes i think i'll be fine. kinda a middle ground
> 
> THANKS EVERYONE


Why only 10% WC's??? That's not enough to dilute the ammonia and nitrite.  

Dr. Tim's is available from Amazon.com if you can't find it locally. You can also look for Tetra's Safe Start locally.

IF you want to follow DJ's protocol, please note that *he dosed his tank with Prime to detox the ammonia and nitrite until he got the Dr. Tim's.* You must do *something*...either get the beneficial bacteria, or do LARGE WC's and dose with Prime or Amquel Plus to detox the ammonia and nitrite. This tank will NOT cycle faster by leaving the ammonia to just continue climbing.

*From DJ's post:*


> *I then went out and got Dr. Tim's bacteria in a bottle*, bought 2 ammonia remover pads for my Ac 110's. I then bought an extra bit of Cycle booster in a bottle at my LFS added the recommended amount daily after using the whole bottle of Dr Tim's the first day and it took about a week.


Not trying to be harsh, just trying to help. 10% WC's will NOT be enough to get your fish through this.


----------



## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

> Why only 10% WC's??? That's not enough to dilute the ammonia and nitrite.


+1

Here's a plan. Order Dr. Tim's: http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/One_Only/OneOnly.html.
Do mega water changes until it arrives, 75% or more, to keep the ammonia as low as possible. *It's a myth that big water changes are dangerous*. As long as you use enough dechlorinator BEFORE adding the water and it's within a couple degrees of what you replaced you're fine.


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

I never did the water change last night and i just tested

ammonia is .25 ppm

nitrite is still high but it's only been high for a couple days 3.0 ppm

nitrate is a 10 ppm

i'm almost cycled i think its the combo of stability seeded grave and seeded filter

but i'll do a water change tonight and if it dose not hurt anything i'll keep doing them

by the way tomorrow i'm going to pick up a 135 gallon tank and stand

fish less cycle on that tank.

how long would a BGK live in 135 gallons ? or a pair of Oscars hum i just don't know what to put in there but for only $ 100.00 i have to get it


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

=D> =D> =D> =D> :fish: :fish: =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

:thumb: your getting there buddy!


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

this F**king B**ch i talked to her today said i'll pick up the tank tomorrow she said OK. i had to find a baby sitter and a ride big enough to transport this 6 foot long tank and stand so after work i called her and she said oh well someones picking it up right now there my friend i'm sorry WTF i'm so pissed thought i was getting a 135 gallon tank tomorrow. now i get nothing


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

how bad is 3.0 ppm nitrite on my test strips it says (stress) i bet if i don't change the water i'll be cycled in a week.
ammonia is still .25ppm nitrate is 20 ppm i am cycling vary fast without water changes you think it's (Seachem stability)

Oscar looks very happy i fed him good before i went back to work and no change in ammonia it's been 6 hours sens i fed him.


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

notismonster said:


> how bad is 3.0 ppm nitrite on my test strips it says (stress) i bet if i don't change the water i'll be cycled in a week


I don't know why you think not changing the water = faster cycle? The beneficial bacteria are not colonizing in your water; they are in your filter media, gravel, and decor. :-?


----------



## Bearbear (May 8, 2010)

notismonster said:


> how bad is 3.0 ppm nitrite on my test strips it says (stress)


Test strips can be highly inaccurate.
When you can get the API Freshwater Master Test Kit or something similar.


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

i do have the API test kit but i lost nitrate color chart so i got test strips and they happen to test for nitrite to and they were so easy i bought the ammonia test strips too. thank you because i just tested nitrite and wow way higher then the test strips i doing a 50 % water change right now i didn't know how bad those test strips where.

nitrite is like 5.0 ppm 
test strips said 3.0 ppm


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

I want to know what temp you would suggest i have been keeping the temp at 82 F.
but i think Oscars like cooler water 
but fish in stress will do better with lots of 
oxygen 
warmer water 
and aquarium salt

is that right ?


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

notismonster said:


> I want to know what temp you would suggest i have been keeping the temp at 82 F.
> but i think Oscars like cooler water
> but fish in stress will do better with lots of
> oxygen
> ...


O's like warmer water. I keep my tank at 80 and O loves it. At warmer temps, you do need to keep the tank well oxygenated. You don't necessarily need salt. Some say no salt unless you need it for therapeutic purposes.

Good job on WC. YIKES - 5.0 Nitrite!


----------



## Malawidolphin (Dec 15, 2006)

50% water changes DAILY is what you need to do until these numbers zero out. Your Oscar may not SHOW signs of distress but these amounts of amonnia and nitrite can kill him. Once the signs of stress are obvious to you it might be to late to undo the damage.

WATER CHANGE, :dancing: WATER CHANGE, :dancing: WATER CHANGE :dancing: 
He will thank you for it. :thumb:


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

OK so my cycling has slowed levels are just staying the same.
i used prime the other day, so how do i know much and how long this stuff detoxify nitrites ??????

i am not going to do anymore water changes i have the AC 50 ammonia remover in my filter (since the beginning) 
my Oscar dose not like water changes he seams stressed for a while so once a month water changes i have ton of Java moss in there and the only grave is the 4-5 cups i took from planted tank(going back in planted tank after cycling)
i think i'll make a mat of Java moss on the bottom of the tank to suck up ammonia , nitrites and nitrates.(some Java fern baby's too.)

one more question my Oscar dose not like to bright of light will he like the stained dark water like in the real amazon rive?????

THANKS EVERYONE


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

> my Oscar dose not like water changes he seams stressed for a while so once a month water changes


Oscars are drama queens...they don't like change of any kind. They will pout and sulk in the corner when you move anything in their tank, *but they will get used to you maintaining their tank.* It just takes a little time, and the more often you do it, the quicker they'll get used to it. I think it's like the analogy of kids preferring cookies to vegetables - would you only give your kids cookies because they sulk when they have to eat vegetables? :lol:

I would venture a guess that the stress you're seeing is from the high nitrItes and/or ammonia. My O may sulk in the corner during WC's, but he swims like he's in a water ballet when the WC's are over. Every fish I have loves clean water!

Oscars are big fish with BIG waste. *Weekly* water changes are recommended to remove their waste. Once a month, IMHO, isn't nearly enough.

I'm going back to my broken record, but until your NitrIte and Ammonia are zero, you need to do frequent WC's of at least 30%. Dose with Prime at each WC, and it will detox the NitrIte and ammonia. There is no quick fix for the situation you're in; leaving everything to "be" won't cycle your tank any faster. Well, there is a quick fix - Dr. Tim's or Tetra Safe Start. :wink:


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

ok i'll keep up the water changes thank you for your post twohuskies very informative about oscars. WHAT ABOUT seachem stability seachem seems like they have awesome products so how it tim's and tetra safe start better.
Stability says it has the bacteria in it ????????


----------



## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

This is from an article written by Kmuda on this forum: http://www.oscarfish.com/. (He also posts on Cichlid-forum.com).



> Research conducted by Timothy A. Hovanec (formerly of Marineland Labs, now the founder of Dr. TimÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s Aquatics) has identified the correct combination of autotrophic bacteria performing the nitrogen cycle in our tanks are Nitrosomonas marina (converts ammonia to nitrite) and Nitrospira (converts nitrite to nitrate). *I am aware of only two Ã¢â‚¬Å"bacterial additiveÃ¢â‚¬Â*


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

I have used Stability and Safe Start because those were readily available to me at LFS. I also like Seachem products. I used stability in a new'ish tank when I was transferring a complete filter from another tank, but using new substrate. I used Safe Start in another tank with a similar situation. Neither tank cycled. BUT, I was using a filter from a like-size tank, not from a smaller one like in your situation.

I don't have personal experience with Dr. Tim's, but have read nothing but good things about it. I figure all of these experienced fish keepers having good results with the product must mean something. :lol: Since Dr. Tim's isn't available at any of my LFS, I think I will order some online to have on hand for when I just _have to_ set up another tank. :lol:

How's your O doing????? :fish:


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

well i'm almost there and Oscar lived.

ammonia 0 ppm

nitrite .25 ppm

nitrate not sure ran out of test strip and don't have the color chart from API test kit i going to do water change tomorrow anyway

Thanks Everyone

If you read about the big tank i did NOT get it's not all bad my LFS said to call her on Saturday someone is bringing in a 90 - 125 gallon tank well see i'm not going to get excited till the tank is in my living room opcorn:


----------



## nauTik (Mar 18, 2009)

notismonster said:


> nitrate not sure ran out of test strip and don't have the color chart from API test kit i going to do water change tomorrow anyway
> 
> :


http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Downloads.html


----------



## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

A 90 g can make a nice home for an O and a couple friends ...










... especially once you add a background and some decor that looks like it came from within 2,000 miles of the Amazon.  (It's a 75 g only a little taller.)


----------



## twohuskies (Mar 1, 2008)

notismonster said:


> well i'm almost there and Oscar lived.
> 
> ammonia 0 ppm
> 
> ...


 :dancing: :dancing: :dancing:

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn:


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

=D> Congrats bro your just about there. Get that NitrIte down and you got it!


----------



## notismonster (May 8, 2010)

i'm almost cycled but the tank is bare no gravel (4 cups from my planted tank)
when trying to seed this tank with bacteria i put everything i did not want in my planted tank.
so a ton of Java moss it grows to fast for my 20 gallon planted tank, Aquaclear 50 filter i no longer need on my planted tank i'm using a sponge filter with power head vary satisfied with that setup. 
heres the ??what filters to use

Top Fin 60 
Penguin bio wheel 200 
Aquaclear 50 
or use all 3 
and if i remove one will my ammonia Ect. spike too much ????

As far as gravel goes i'm thinking about saving 25 gallons of tank water then draining tank and adding gravel after i'm fully cycled. Sound like a good idea if not i could use a layer of java moss on the bottom of the tank.


----------



## Dj823cichild (Mar 30, 2009)

The more the better I say! :thumb:


----------



## PepoLD (Dec 9, 2009)

pics?


----------



## Something Fishy (Oct 23, 2002)

Tiktaalik Owner said:


> A 90 g can make a nice home for an O and a couple friends ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know this is an old thread, but would someone tell me the name of the fish in the tank with that Oscar. [Latin or common name]


----------



## PepoLD (Dec 9, 2009)

oh missunderstood let me check


----------



## Something Fishy (Oct 23, 2002)

PepoLD said:


> oh missunderstood let me check


OK.


----------



## PepoLD (Dec 9, 2009)

Myleus schomburgkii or disc tetra


----------



## Something Fishy (Oct 23, 2002)

Thanks.


----------



## Tiktaalik Owner (Aug 17, 2009)

AKA: Black Band Myleus, Black Barred Characin, Blackear Pacu, Disk Pacu, Disk Tetra, Black Belt Silver Dollar. They also look like this: 









Fishbase says they can reach 40 cm!! http://www.fishbase.us/summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=11960 There's some debate as to whether the kind I have should belong to the same species. Jeff Rapps had them for $50 a while ago. (See 1st & 3rd vids in my signature. Mine are about 1 year old there and MUCH bigger than the regular SD.)


----------



## evan4218 (Jan 11, 2011)

I am in the process of replacing my Top Fin 60 as my secondary filter. The thing sounds like a lawn mower. Since I use a canister filter as my primary I cant say what would be better, but the Top Fin dosnt have any biofiltration at all.


----------



## blu330ciracer (Oct 21, 2010)

I hope this article helps you, it gives lots of tips that you should keep in mind when caring for albino oscars and red tiger oscars. Definitely try to lower the ammonia by doing frequent water changes. Cycle also helps to balance ammonia because it has beneficial bacteria that helps to breakdown harmful and excess waste.

http://hubpages.com/hub/How-to-care-for ... iger-Oscar


----------

