# 220gal tank build w/ pic's



## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Ok I have started building my 220 gallon tank, so far I'm not that far along but I'll share what I have and see if the inovated members of this forum can help me along the way. I have almost all the things I need minus some odds and ends.

Ok first thing I got it in the house  ....... with the help of 3 freinds








My dog didn't help I don't know why hes sleeping theres more work to be done :? :zz: 









I've also got my UGJ system done, first I laid out all the peices were I wanted the jets.









Then I cut them all to size and fitted them to gether to make sure they were right and added the jets( I've been known to make mistakes  )

















Next I've drilled out the holes for my over flows and return pipes to the UGJ system. As you can see it chiped a little bit when the whole saw came thrue, it's my first time drilling glass :-? I think the gaskett for the bulk heads will cover it up, but I will use a bead of sillicone around it for good measure.

















These were the diomond tip whole saws I used to drill my tank

















I also called 3M and got a sample kit from them and chose the white S Grade and picked up my sand

















Ok now I was wondering if you all could help me, I was wondering witch is better for the stand pipe, a duriso or a regular slanted stand pipe? And I've heard people talk about the water syphoning back into the sump because the check valve didnt work right when the power went out. Is there another way to prevent this along with a check valve like two back ups? I don't want my tank to empty onto the floor  .

Right now I'm in the middle of aquiring a table saw so I can cut my plexi glass and make my sumps and over flow boxes as soon as that's done I will go to work on making the back ground for my tank.

Hear is a rough design on my sump any sugestions or coments on this or anything else are welcomed and wanted :thumb:


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## GonePostal (Jul 6, 2005)

Looks great! I am excited to follow along!


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

My other half must have been drunk this morning  she told me I could get another 220 WOOT WOOT But we will see. I hope to get a table saw soon its holding me up soo bad  I might just go to one of my old employers and ask them if they would let me use there saw for an hour.


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## narhay (Feb 28, 2007)

Was that bottom glass tempered? The chips might be part of that.


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## narhay (Feb 28, 2007)

your first two jets connected in a straight line to the pump outlet will get a lot of the flow from the pump. This will make it really powerful, and the other jets not so much at all. You could always test it with a low level of water.

And your sump, if the top filter media is slower to drain than the sump fills up, you might have a bit of a flood on your hands. Gravity is good, but it may not pull enough.

Other than that, get the other 220 before she changes her mind.


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## fishwolfe (Mar 27, 2005)

looks nice and big.beautiful g.shepherd i got 2 myself.what are your plans for the back ground?have you thought about using a biotower in the first chamber of your sump instead of just the drain?then use pillow stuffing (which is cheap) for mechanical filtration in the second chamber?


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## swamptrout (Jul 2, 2007)

what pump you using on ther UGJ?


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

narhay said:


> your first two jets connected in a straight line to the pump outlet will get a lot of the flow from the pump. This will make it really powerful, and the other jets not so much at all. You could always test it with a low level of water.


I could always move the return line to the center of the UGJ line to try and even it out what do you think will that work better?



narhay said:


> And your sump, if the top filter media is slower to drain than the sump fills up, you might have a bit of a flood on your hands. Gravity is good, but it may not pull enough.


I think I'll have to experiment with this to see how/if it will work



narhay said:


> Other than that, get the other 220 before she changes her mind.


I agree and if I can scrape up the money theres the catch  any donations to my new cause????? 



narhay said:


> Was that bottom glass tempered? The chips might be part of that.


I don't think so it's a perfecto tank and I called them and checked the markings on the tank and they said it wasnt temperd glass that they had stoped useing it



fishwolfe said:


> looks nice and big.beautiful g.shepherd i got 2 myself.what are your plans for the back ground?have you thought about using a biotower in the first chamber of your sump instead of just the drain?then use pillow stuffing (which is cheap) for mechanical filtration in the second chamber?


For the background I pland on useing 2 2" thick styrofom glued together than some quickqreat and honestly I hadn't thought much about the bio towers as I'm not familar with them the filter media I have is fairly cheap itself like $5.00 for the filter floss http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/prod/196891/product.web , and the dog is a simple a$$  but I love himhes cool... lazy but cool



swamptrout said:


> what pump you using on ther UGJ?


Actualy I was going to have two sumps and both pumps are a pond master mag 12


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## bell (Dec 12, 2005)

narhay said:


> And your sump, if the top filter media is slower to drain than the sump fills up, you might have a bit of a flood on your hands. Gravity is good, but it may not pull enough.


this is easily fixed by having an opening for the water should it slow down too much through the media where it'll drop into the pump chamber......


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

This is tur I was thinking about doing some thing like that, I wanted to cut the plexi glass that the media was on a little smaller than it neede to be so I could pop them out for matinance I guess tha would help/solve the problem do you think?


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## NBwmu (Nov 20, 2006)

I was wondering where you are getting you 3M colorquartz from. Do you have a distributor around you or are you getting it straight from the company. I know that alot of people are interested in getting thier hands on some of the stuff since it is alot cheaper than the tahitian moon sand.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Yeah I called them for the sample kit ( free by the way) and a list of suplyers in my area. I had to drive 1 hour each way but I thought it was worth it I can't wait to see it in my tank try hear http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... p/Contact/ its color quarts crystals I think or some thing I dont remember what they called it. I got white and think it was around $20.00-$28.00 for a 50lb bag I got 300lbs of it. ummmm I think thats about right.


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## fishwolfe (Mar 27, 2005)

heres a bio tower link
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... highlight=


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

MMMMM........ I duno I have about a total of 6-7 gallons of bio balls going in mine I think it will be efective enugh. actualy the design I'm useing isn't that much different than that bio tower. Mine is just designd a little differnt and I think it will be pretty quiet this way.

Click to enlarge


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

MightyWarMonger said:


> Next I've drilled out the holes for my over flows and return pipes to the UGJ system. As you can see it chiped a little bit when the whole saw came thrue, it's my first time drilling glass :-? I think the gaskett for the bulk heads will cover it up, but I will use a bead of sillicone around it for good measure.


Chips are no good man. They can cause pressure cracks and that could lead to 220 gallons on the floor.

Also, are those two holes you drilled on the back your return feeds? Is so, I see DISASTER written all over it. If the power goes out the USJ system will just be a giant siphon and you'll again have 220 gallons on your floor. Seeing how there is no way to do a siphon break. And if you say you are going to use check valves. They fail more often then they work.

But that is what I see as potentially problematic. If either occur chances are you'll most likely have dead fish inside your tank.

Hopefully nothing goes wrong.


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## Mat Harvey (May 30, 2007)

Yo Dude,
Nice tank mate, Chipped the holes, Bugger. I work at a public aquarium and have drilled tanks b4 with chips. Make sure that you overkill the foam under the tank to really EVENLY spread the load and DON'T use Silicon on the Bulk Head. If there is ANY movement in the bulk head once the silcon e is dry the seal will break and your bulk head will ALWAYS leak - not good - The good news, use heaps of Silicon based Lube (o-ring lube high quality), this will be your best bet.

Good luck and have Fun


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## Mat Harvey (May 30, 2007)

Also, I assume your tank has a floating base (new tanks always do) it mean that the edges come down to the bottom and the base fits inside them (as aposed to the edges sitting on the base (older design)). If this is the case it maybe worth putting a ridged peice of plywood between the stand and tank (i can see that there is only edge support and a center brace) Drill the plywood to fit your holes in the tank and then use thick (ish) styrofome. This will be your best bet regarding stress fractures in the base originating from the chipped holes. Also make sure it is 100% level (duh)

Take my opinion into account, sure, but it is just my opinion 

ciao


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## lomax (Nov 14, 2003)

you should have temp siliconed some glass under where you were drilling to help prevent chips, or dilled from both sides into the center of the glass. I hope it was not tempered glass, i think it would have exploded if it was but if it is and you drilled it it will exploded as soon as you add water.

I am not liking the chips, i would at the least put more glass under them and use a wide flange bulkhead.

as for the UGJs going through the bottom, well you can NOT use a sump system now. it has to be a pressurized filter system no other way. you could take the UGJ pipes all the way up the back wall do the siphon break and then all the way back down to the bulkheads.

I did my UGJ from the bottom, but it went up to a T for a spray bar and then down to the ugjs. I controlled the UGJ and spray bar by using a shutoff value. this way the spray bar acted as a siphon break and it could never drain the whole tank onto the floor.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

IrkedCitizen
said:


> Chips are no good man. They can cause pressure cracks and that could lead to 220 gallons on the floor.


This was a concern of mine but I'm not real experianced with it so any sugestions and what are the odds I will have a problem?



Mat Harvey said:


> Yo Dude,
> Nice tank mate, Chipped the holes, Bugger. I work at a public aquarium and have drilled tanks b4 with chips. Make sure that you overkill the foam under the tank to really EVENLY spread the load and DON'T use Silicon on the Bulk Head. If there is ANY movement in the bulk head once the silcon e is dry the seal will break and your bulk head will ALWAYS leak - not good - The good news, use heaps of Silicon based Lube (o-ring lube high quality), this will be your best bet.


Ok use heaps of Silicon based Lube could you explane this a little more like were to aply it and were to get it from.



Mat Harvey said:


> Also, I assume your tank has a floating base (new tanks always do) it mean that the edges come down to the bottom and the base fits inside them (as aposed to the edges sitting on the base (older design)). If this is the case it maybe worth putting a ridged peice of plywood between the stand and tank (i can see that there is only edge support and a center brace) Drill the plywood to fit your holes in the tank and then use thick (ish) styrofome. This will be your best bet regarding stress fractures in the base originating from the chipped holes. Also make sure it is 100% level (duh)
> 
> ciao


I will try this and how thick is thick ish? like 1/2" 3/4" 1/4" ?



lomax said:


> you should have temp siliconed some glass under where you were drilling to help prevent chips, or dilled from both sides into the center of the glass. I hope it was not tempered glass, i think it would have exploded if it was but if it is and you drilled it it will exploded as soon as you add water.
> 
> I am not liking the chips, i would at the least put more glass under them and use a wide flange bulkhead.


I don't like the chips eiather but I have to deal with it now , also could you explane how you would put more glass under them?



lomax said:


> I did my UGJ from the bottom, but it went up to a T for a spray bar and then down to the ugjs. I controlled the UGJ and spray bar by using a shutoff value. this way the spray bar acted as a siphon break and it could never drain the whole tank onto the floor.


I like this idea and think I will try this route.

Ok now I'm getting nervouse about the chips what are my odds as far as it breaking or cracking 50/50 ? I will try the above mentioned sugestions does any one have any others that would help? Also as a side note I will be getting my table saw thursday so hopefuly I will the sumps built next week some time


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## Mat Harvey (May 30, 2007)

Dont stress to much about the chips mate. I have never had one blow from small chips around a hole. Just take all the precautions given.

Silcone lube - you should be able to get this from a hardware shop. It is commonly used to grease O rings. failing that, you will be able to get some from a SCUBA dive shop (although prob a little more expensive). apply lots to all the shims and other surfaces that are sandwiched between the bulkhead and the bottom of the tank.

With the timber under the tank, what you need is a ridged base. So 3/4'' wouldn't hurt to be on the safe side. Make sure its 100% level and flat (no room for even the slightest error here) and use a sheet of styrofom on top of that (duh... :wink: )

I like Lomax idea, if you can glue another piece of glass on the bottom and drill through that too (without chipping it) it would reinforce any weakness caused by the chips. Obviously it would cost a bit, but would be better than loosing the whole tank....

have fun with the sump.... i'm building one today with WD and with one of those syphon overflows (don't want to drill my tank) check it out:

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/view ... p?t=149594


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Ok cool and for the sheet of glass on the bottom how big should it be the entire foot print of the tank? and how thick of glass should it be?


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Ok I got my table saw and am about to cut the sump's Yes I will have two sump's. In the picture below is the dimentions for my tank stand I was wondering if any one could tell me how big the sumps can be? or give me the formula so I can calculate it, I would like them to be as big as possible. The footprint dimentions are inside the corner blocks.


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## fishwolfe (Mar 27, 2005)

well if you take your "inside" dimensions and use them for the "outside" dimension of a sump it comes out to 136gallons.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

yes but can I get it thrue the door opanings ?


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## fishwolfe (Mar 27, 2005)

:lol: probably not :roll: 
if you make the sumps just big enough to slide thru the doors, the sumps being 20"x20"x20", will be about 35g each.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

BLAAAAAA will that be enugh 70 gal total for a 220 gal tank? I guess I got what I got to work with


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

what are the dimensions of the ends of the stands between the corner braces. the 23" inches isn't in between.


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## fishwolfe (Mar 27, 2005)

well the sumps will not be holding all 70gallons,only half that or less.i would run 1 sump and a fx5 at minimum.i would probably add a couple hobs and an u.g.j.set up too.put your heaters in the sump too.

can you modify the stand so 1 end opens, and slide the full size sump in that way?


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

fishwolfe said:


> can you modify the stand so 1 end opens, and slide the full size sump in that way?





IrkedCitizen said:


> what are the dimensions of the ends of the stands between the corner braces. the 23" inches isn't in between.


That's why I wanted to know this. ^^


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Well would 40gall be enugh volume for this size tank?


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## IrkedCitizen (Apr 26, 2007)

I would say put the bulkheads in the tank then sell the tank and stand. Buy a new tank and build a stand that you can get bigger sumps into.

Then you wouldn't have to worry about the chips turning into pressure cracks. And your stand would be what it is needed to be.


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## myselfdotcom (Sep 19, 2006)

nice!..darn looks like a lot work... i am lazy


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Ok I know I started this a little over a year ago but I've been verry busy latlely Just had twins and had to sell my house and buy a larger one. So with that I apoligise for the delays and on the 30th of this month I will finaly be moving into my new house and in the next month or two be back to building my tank. I have now decided to make this an inwall tank. I am still concerned over the chips in the tank from drilling it out for the overflows so if any one has any more insight about this I could use you're imput please and any other ideas are welcomed thanks for the help.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Well I was just looking around on anothe forum (for marine aquariums) and saw were a guy used a dremmel tool with a diomond bit to cut out his holes for overflowes, would it be possible to just take a dremel tool and make the hole just a bit bigger and use a slightly larger bulkhead if need be? would this take care of my issue of the chips around the holes were I drilled?


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## cichlid-fan (Sep 18, 2007)

Dude I did the same thing when i drill my tank for the first time. Now the way I fix my mistake I got a bigger hole saw with a starter bit. Also when drilling that bad boy make sure u have something like a piece of board under it for preventing chip outs. A spray bottle with water will help for heat and dust.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Ok well tonight I will hopefuly start on the stand for the tank and cut the hole out in the wall for it, after that I wanted to start on my back ground for the tank but I need to put the overflow boxes in first, witch leads me to my question. what is the best way to di it? can I just use plexiglas and silicone it in place or do I need to use glas? also if I use glass what is the best way to put the groves in the top of the glass for drainage. hopefuly tonight I will have some pics probly not much of anythiung but meeh better than nothing


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

As I said erlier it is now going to be an inwall tank, it will go in the closet in the downstairs bathroom and be vissible from the living room. Well saterday I got started cutting out the drywall and expected my brother inlaw to be home around 3pm to let me borow his skill saw and sawzaw, well that didnt happen so I had to wait till sunday to get the tools 

this is the wall from the living room side looking in and the hole I made I was thuroughly suprised to find insulation in an iterior wall :x I hate insulation makes me itch.

































This is from the bathroom side witch is a larger hole to acomidate the stand and the tank, also its hard to shoot because of the small area. Oh and I nicked the dam electric wire while cutting the drywall so now I'll have te re run that leg to the other receptical.

















Ok next are some shots of the stand I made useing 4x4s, 2x6s, & 3/4" plywood with 2" & 1"5/8 screws. I plan to put a couple of lag bolts in butof course I rememberd that after I put the dam thing in the hole whitch is a huge PITA because of the tight fit.

































I'm verry busy at work for the next week or so and I only anticipate getting the overflow boxes in the tank this week. After the overflow boxes are in I will start the DIY backgound that I will be useing two 2" think styrofaom sheets (seen above in pic) as well as some PVC fittins for caves in the BG. I still need to get the quick qreat but I can still cut out the styrafoam and get it redy (as time permits twin babies are a huge handful and time consuming lol) so hopefuly I can get the BG done and in in the next two weeks. I ment to get the pictures up sooner but just couldnt find the time.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Ok I need some advise on the overflow boxes 1. should I use glass or plexiglass 2. how big do they needto be or should be.


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## mddjr5 (Sep 12, 2005)

I just finished reading this whole thread :thumb: It looks like a really fun project :drooling:

My first thought however is, "what if there is a problem with the chipped glass?"

Any possibility of doing a "test fill" before you go to all the work of putting in the background, sump etc...? Just a thought  Keep on keeping on!


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

yeah I can do a test fill but its hard to get ppl to come and help me move it lol I want to try it first but we shall see. I still need to get my overflow boxes made and installed.


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## Grey Legion (Apr 11, 2005)

MightyWarMonger said:


> yes but can I get it thrue the door opanings ?


Could you not make a removable center support ??

Build a large sump slide it in, replace center support and bing bang boom you should be all set.

Of course I am making it so simple but some research will be needed.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

well that portion of the thread was for when I was going to put it on the factory stand in my old house now I have a diferent stand that I made for it so my plans for the sump have changes slightly as in I can have a bigger one lol and there is no center suport on my stand.


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## Grey Legion (Apr 11, 2005)

MightyWarMonger said:


> well that portion of the thread was for when I was going to put it on the factory stand in my old house now I have a diferent stand that I made for it so my plans for the sump have changes slightly as in I can have a bigger one lol and there is no center suport on my stand.


Yea I see that now, my bad I should have read the whole thread, just wanted to offer some helpful advice. Project looks like it is moving well..

best wishes for happy fishes


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## bell (Dec 12, 2005)

looks like it's coming along great, i hate to nitpick, but i would add a 2x4 to where i highlighted in your pic to help transfer the load in the front and back......good piece of mind and all......plus now is the time to do it


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## Morpheus (Nov 12, 2008)

I agree with bell. That way it's not just the three screws I see going through the 2 x 6 into the 4 x 4 supporting the weight. Also, the bottom brace in the front. Is it not resting on the floor? Or is that an optical illusion? Just curious as to why it would not sit on the floor as the one in back does. Seems like it would add to the stability.

As for the overflow boxes, I may have missed it, but how many are you going for? 2 or 3? I'm not sure how you would attach acrylic overflows to a glass tank, so my vote is for glass.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Well there are actualy 6 2" screws in each 4x4 and I plan on putting some lag bolts on there I just forgot to do before I put it in place But I might put a 2x4 in there we will see. Also tomorow I will be getting the plexi glass to make the overflow boxes then start on the background sometime soon maby even tomorow afternoon.


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## Morpheus (Nov 12, 2008)

How are you going to attach the acrylic to glass? Silicone does not stick very well to acrylic. Also, for the $10 it would cost, I would throw the 2 x 4's in there.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

Yeah I will most likely put the 2x4s in there I already have them laying around. But I posted erlier about useing glass or acrylic for the over flows and no one answerd, and I already got the acrylic. I was thinking that mabye with the diy background going around the overflow it will help hold it in place. any other thoughts on it?


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## Morpheus (Nov 12, 2008)

Well, I have to say I am not up to speed on how the whole thing is plumbed. Is the tank drilled behind the overflows on the back of the tank to be connected to your sump? Or is it going out the bottom? Either way, I think best bet now would be to put a back on your overflows so the silicon has more contact points with the acrylic to the glass. I don't think just siliconing the edges to the back and bottom of the tank will work long term, but I may be wrong as I have actually never tried it.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

The holes in the bottom go to sump and the ones in the back are the returns to the ugj. if I use glas how thick does it need to be and what is the best configuration in silliconing them inplace.
1. front of overflow box has the sides behind it or 2. were the front is flush with the ends of the sides. I was thinking 1 myself any thoughts?


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## Morpheus (Nov 12, 2008)

I agree, #1. That way you won't see the seams when looking at it straight on. As for the glass thickness, I don't know. But I do know you'd be safe using the same thickness as your aquarium walls. Perhaps thinner because the pieces are so much smaller.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

yeah I was thinking the same thing the glass is 3/4 gut I was hopeing to use mabye 1/2 or 1/4 glass for the overflows anyone else have any input for this? I need to get it done because its holding me up from going further in any steps.


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## imusuallyuseless (Dec 28, 2005)

I personally think you be ok w/1/4" glass. Water will be on both sides of the glass, not just one, so there shouldn't be too much pressure.


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## MightyWarMonger (Mar 20, 2007)

also there will be my DIY background that will go around it as well


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## MaryPa (Aug 19, 2004)

I personalli think the dog is awesome !!!!! :thumb:


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## fishwolfe (Mar 27, 2005)

me too i got 2 gsd's :thumb: :thumb:


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