# Gate valve vs. Ball valve on DIY PVC overflow



## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

I currently have a ball valve on my DIY PVC overflow. Normally, I can tweak it it bring it as quiet as an HOB and less often I am lucky enough to even making it silent.

The ball valve I'm using to control the overflow was the least sticky one on the shelf when I purchased it, but I'm finding that it's still pretty sticky when adjusting. I read another thread where *KaiserSousay * suggested a gate valve. I googled PVC gate valve and found a couple hits, but also found disclaimers that they were not that reliable.

What experience do you have with PVC gate valves? 
Is there a way to tie brass gate valves into a PVC overflow?


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## KiDD (Aug 20, 2010)

Find you a little plumbing store near ya and go look around it. Might try pool supply/repair shop to. Something like Leslie's We use gate Valves on big water pumps for Buildings work fine.


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## KiDD (Aug 20, 2010)

The last pump I built.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

KiDD said:


> Find you a little plumbing store near ya and go look around it. Might try pool supply/repair shop to. Something like Leslie's We use gate Valves on big water pumps for Buildings work fine.


Do you have any experience with PVC gate valves, or using a brass gate valve in a PVC line?



KiDD said:


> The last pump I built.


Wow! I can't even tell what I'm looking at!


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

*using a brass gate valve in a PVC line*

That is what I did.


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## redstallion02 (Jan 17, 2008)

There is a plastic PVC fitting that will screw into the gate valves. Just use tape and it will work great. I have two on my system one leaks a litle but I think it was returned to the store and was stripped a little when I purchased it.


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

I use pvc ball valves only because they're cheaper and I needed a bunch. I've also read about the gate valves being less reliable, but I'm not convinced they're that much less reliable to make them something to be avoided. Not at all. If you only need one, get the gate valve and try it. Worst thing that can happen is that you'll have to replace it every so often, but I'd be it'll last a long time for you.










I have a situation now where I'm trying to tweak two of these to balance flow. Ball valves are a pistol. It'd be really nice to have had gate valves, but I think they were like $16 compared to $4 for the ball valves. Already had spent too much.

Tying brass valves into PVC wouldn't be my first choice. I'd try the PVC valve first. If you're really set on trying it, just make a quick trip to the local hardware store and ask about the best approach/fittings.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

KaiserSousay said:


> *using a brass gate valve in a PVC line*
> 
> That is what I did.


Thanks for the input! Have you had any issues? Did you use the PVC fittings that screw in like *redstallion02* mentions?



redstallion02 said:


> There is a plastic PVC fitting that will screw into the gate valves. Just use tape and it will work great. I have two on my system one leaks a litle but I think it was returned to the store and was stripped a little when I purchased it.


Sounds like a plan! Thanks for the input!


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

prov356 said:


> I use pvc ball valves only because they're cheaper and I needed a bunch. I've also read about the gate valves being less reliable, but I'm not convinced they're that much less reliable to make them something to be avoided. Not at all. If you only need one, get the gate valve and try it. Worst thing that can happen is that you'll have to replace it every so often, but I'd be it'll last a long time for you.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I also went with the lesser expensive and am using 3 ball valves right now. I am only interested in changing out the one on the overflow. That one requires the most sensitive adjusting.

Your set up is very clean, I love it! Maybe you only need to change out one like me. It could be the last one you adjust for some fine tuning.


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## DrgRcr (Jun 23, 2009)

As a pipefitter I will add this. A ball valve is the only 100% positive shut off valve, but it is not meant for throttling/adjusting flow, although you can do it to some degree. A gate valve is better for adjusting flow, but over time the gate may not seal/shut off completely if dirt or sediment gets behind the seat. Actually, a globe valve is designed more for flow adjustment, but you'll probably only find them in plumbing supply houses and they're likely to be alot more money. I don't think you can get the latter two in PVC either. But regardless, I'm sure any of them could be made to work in our systems.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

DrgRcr said:


> As a pipefitter I will add this. A ball valve is the only 100% positive shut off valve, but it is not meant for throttling/adjusting flow, although you can do it to some degree. A gate valve is better for adjusting flow, but over time the gate may not seal/shut off completely if dirt or sediment gets behind the seat. Actually, a globe valve is designed more for flow adjustment, but you'll probably only find them in plumbing supply houses and they're likely to be alot more money. I don't think you can get the latter two in PVC either. But regardless, I'm sure any of them could be made to work in our systems.


Good info! I can't imagine having a need to seal/shut off the overflow completely so I think I'll check out the gate valves. I googled the globe valves and notice that while they are for restricting flow (like you said) they look like they could get clogged easily.... I'd be afraid of having to replace it if a dead (or live) fish were to go through the overflow!


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## prov356 (Sep 20, 2006)

> A ball valve is the only 100% positive shut off valve, but it is not meant for throttling/adjusting flow, although you can do it to some degree.


I use them all over the place my aquarium systems to adjust flow and they work just fine with the exception of making small adjustments. They're not the easiest to with, as I stated previously, but they do work just fine.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

Searching online and I find gate valves that are 1.5" and 2".... I have 1.75" overflow, so I guess I'd like to go with the $24 2" gate valve! That's a heck of a price!

But to make the fine tuning easier that it is now with the ball vavle... it may be worth it.


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## DrgRcr (Jun 23, 2009)

Don't go spending the extra $ on my account, I was just stating facts  ! Even if it was mine I'd have a hard time spending that much on a valve. But to each his own, right?


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

Its a lot of $$ for a valve, but I need an easier way to make the very fine adjustments. Right now the tank is set up in the garage, I have to move it before it gets cold out, in the spring I saw my 100 watt Rena hold the tank temp when air temps are as low as 58 but don't want to push my luck!

Anyway, in the house the overflow will be hard to get at and I can't see myself having much luck with the ball valve. The others I have don't need to be fine tuned, so they are fine.


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## fox (Jun 11, 2009)

Yeah the PVC BV's get sticky with time. For fine tuning I use a large pair of waterpump pliers. Works quite well actually.

For the most part once you balance the system those valves are set and forget. I do mess with them for grins and giggles and they always seem to end up right where they were before I touched them.


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## nhra_20 (Mar 22, 2010)

I'm a plumber and I would stick to the ball valve personally. We almost never install gate valves and more often take them oyt for failure.!! But like drgrcr said ball valves are meant for shut off, not flow control. But if you go to a plumbing supply I am sure they have a pvc flow control that can glue right in. Might have one in CPVC but they make adaptors for that I believe. Just some ideas. Globe valves and butterfly valves are a good choice as well, but most expensive


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

*nhra_20* - I agree with you but I think my curiousity is gotten the best of me.  I'm going to make a new overflow with the black PVC and plan on using a gate valve (if it fails I'll still have my current overflow). I have a ball valve and it works perfectly, I just want to be able to adjust it more easily. Especially since it's going to be in the corner of a room and hard to reach.

I have other ball valves in my sump's plumbing and no issues with any of them! Just looking for a little more convienience on the overflow.

It may be a few weeks or longer, but I'll reply to this thread with pictures when I eventually get the new overflow built.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

An update - I decided to not go with a gate valve.... yet. I found the sweet spot on my ball valve and marked it with a sharpie. It still takes some tinkering, but after a few minutes I can find it again. However, I just leave it alone so I don't have to go through that!

When I do create a new overflow (there are some pretty compact interesting styles out there), then I will likely go with a gate valve.

For the time being, I can make mine so silent, that all you hear is the light hum of the pump! I don't trust the balance though. At night or when I'm away , I redirect some of the flow directly back to the sump, backing off on how hard the overflow must work.


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## PfunMo (Jul 30, 2009)

A long extention handle to slip over the valve handle might make it much easier to set. If you have the space for the tool, a long handle will give you much more leverage to turn the valve a small amount without it jumping all the way closed. Might be worth cutting one out of scrap lumber, etc. to try it.


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## KaiserSousay (Nov 2, 2008)

*When I do create a new overflow (there are some pretty compact interesting styles out there), then I will likely go with a gate valve. *

Would hope you reconsider and wait until you can have a drilled tank.
That makes everything so much easier and less stressful.


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## jchild40 (Mar 20, 2010)

I would LOVE a drilled tank.

In the mean time, I'm stuck with an overflow. I do want a back up, so either I make a back up or buy an overflow box... which isn't out of the question.


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